From the Sector

In its 19th year, the international textile industry exhibition ShanghaiTex will take place from 25 to 28 November 2019. Saurer Twisting Solutions would be delighted to welcome customers and visitors to Saurer's Stand D40 in Hall E1. The focus is on the highly efficient FusionTwister for staple fibre yarns.

The FusionTwister sets the benchmark for the cost-effective production of two-for-one twisted staple fibre yarns. In order to achieve this, we have taken into account the three main factors affecting our customers’ profitability, namely energy, economics and ergonomics.

The machines’ reliably low energy consumption is an important characteristic for decision-makers to take into account. Achieved by means of an optimised spindle drive as well as a great variety of spindle and feeding sizes for all kinds of applications, it is the main element in the equation of production costs.

Power consumption and costs are closely related, with energy efficiency positively influencing the return on investment, since it is daily challenge to process the maximum feeding weight while keeping electricity usage at a comfortable level.

The machine’s short set-up times, fast air threading and easy handling were key considerations with regard to optimising ergonomics.

• Interfilière Paris, 6th-8th July 2019, booth D60

Able to offer an alchemy of design and sustainable innovation, Iluna Group with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei join the latest edition of the Parisian tradeshow for lingerie with a range of innovations capable of combining innovation, aesthetics and quality. "Ethical" lace and stockings, where quality standards go hand in hand with fashion content, respecting both the environment and humans, an offer already selected among the protagonists of the Sustainable Thinking Exhibition of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum, for its value in the field of responsible innovation.

Experts in the production of stretch lace since 1985, ILUNA today represents the largest European laces’producer. Thanks to the effectiveness of their responsible innovation strategy, Iluna Group has been the very first lace producer to have gained the GRS (Global Recycled Standard) for their transformed products, together with the company certification STeP (Sustainable Textile Production by Oeko –Tex®).
A relevant achievement for the firm that, thanks to the Green Label collection, now even richer, make responsible innovation an asset for production that focuses on smart ingredients as ROICA Eco-Smart™ family and Q-Nova® by Fulgar.

A range that culminates today in the launch of an athleisure and sporty-chic capsule collection that perfectly fit the contemporary modern wardrobe, result of a qualified and totally traceable supply chain, from yarn up to garment, based on design, sustainability and performance.

Of major interest is the fact that the Iluna fashion R&D based its strategic choice for the AI2020/2021 on the extension of the offer with new Black label’s developments between lace and embroidery, the premium R&D line.

The range of new Ultralight multicolor laces offers jacquardtronic and textronic 4 or 5 colours galloons with a 3D effect. The change of the color of thread in the background as well as in the design gives life to unique coordinated solutions for creatives. The match between expectations of brands and retailers are met always keeping as a priority the contemporary design, that is integrated to unique strategy committed to responsibility both at corporate and product level.

To ILUNA smart innovation is not just a project, its space at Interfilière where visitors will have the chance to discover the new collection and above all to experience and touch latest boundaries of lace smart innovations pursued staying true to the values the brand. Iluna team is pleased to welcome you with a special cadeaux created in collaboration with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei.

Berlin - 200 exhibitors, around 1,000 visitors and over 20 speakers from Germany and abroad – the ATSG textile fair premiered in Berlin from 11 to 13 September 2019 brought together exhibitors, speakers and trade visitors from all over the world. Jason Prescott, CEO of JP Communications, said he was satisfied with the event at the Estrel Conference Center: "The first step has been taken, now we will establish the ATSG as an important event of the Berlin fashion and textile world".

The ATSG was the first fair of its kind in Germany. "There are many fashion trade fairs for sale from wholesale to retail. Berlin has so far lacked an event for companies of all sizes, including micro-brands and small fashion labels," continues Jason Prescott. The exhibited product categories included fabrics, technical clothing, mixed and knitted fabrics, home textiles, leather, natural and synthetic fibres, readymade goods and fashion accessories. Visitors to major European fashion brands as well as small, independent brands from the Berlin fashion scene were able to take a close look at raw materials and finished garments and discuss their ideas personally with the exhibitors. In parallel, China Textile Brand Show (Berlin), sponsored by Chinese Ministry of Commerce (MOFCOM), made its debut bringing in more than 150 superb Chinese manufacturers with their best collections for Germany and EU market.

Opening Ceremony, Lectures and Fashion Show

The ATSG was opened by Chinese government representatives and international association delegates. More than 20 lectures on the three days provided the latest impulses for thought and discussion. In their lectures and panel discussions, speakers from all over the world presented current positions on topics such as "All China? Or is there more to it?", "Application examples of artificial intelligence in the fashion industry", "Optimal logistics concepts for Europe", or "The importance of sustainability in the European fashion industry".

Wilson Zhu, COO at Li & Fung, one of the world's largest trading houses based in Hong Kong, explained in his keynote speech his view on the digitization of global supply chains: "From raw materials in the textile factory to consumer tracking: In retail, every step of the value chain is determined by digitization.

Companies need to be close to consumers and their supply chains must enable a seamless flow of data and information from start to finish". Customers and their requirements have also changed: "They want to know about origin, recyclability and production standards and use their information to adjust their purchasing behavior accordingly.” Other speakers included Jeff Streader of the brand investment platform Go Global and Salman Khokhar of Brand Lab Kollective Moda. The fashion show on the second day featured creations by local Berlin labels (Damur, Danny Reinke, Aline Celi, Yoona Tech) as well as Asian brands exhibiting at ATSG.

Successful kick-off

Exhibition organiser Jason Prescott draws a positive balance: "Looking back on the three days, I am very proud of what went well. Which has been confirmed for us: We're on an exciting path, have taken our first steps here in Berlin and will continue to develop the exhibition." The creators of ATSG 2019 are taking ideas for the year 2020 with them, especially from the many intensive discussions with exhibitors and visitors: "The ATSG has offered visitors and exhibitors a unique opportunity to identify new growth strategies, look around for market partners, learn from each other and establish networks. We are very pleased that the concept was used here in Berlin," concludes Chase Vance, Director of JP Communications.

Heimtextil will launch the new 2020/2021 trend season with the general theme “WHERE I BELONG”. For the official Heimtextil Trend Preview, Stijlinstituut Amsterdam director Anne Marie Commandeur  introduced the new design themes. The presentation in the run-up to Heimtextil (7-10 January 2020) took place at the Textile Museum’s Textile Lab in Tilburg, the Netherlands on 11 September 2019 and was streamed worldwide.

This season, Stijlinstituut Amsterdam is responsible for the Trend Book content and Trend Space implementation at the upcoming international trade fair for home and contract textiles. Alongside Stijlinstituut Amsterdam, London-based studio FranklinTill and Danish agency SPOTT trends & business contributed to the 20/21 global forecast for perspective-related interior design. Together with the Heimtextil management team, these Trend Council participants gave insights into future styles during a workshop.

At the annual international Trend Council workshop, identity was an ever-present topic: part of a broader discussion on gender and cultural diversity, on tolerance and curiosity. Today, the self-identification process seems more complex than ever. Identities are now formed through experiences that take place simultaneously, on different levels. Locally, nationally, globally, both online and offline. Identity therefore can consist of many different layers. In fact, individuals can all have multilayered identities.

Heimtextil Trends 20/21 Overview:

MAXIMUM GLAM

Pleasure seekers revel in layering theatrical influences and glamorous showtime aesthetics, forging a fantastic marriage between the crafted and digitally rendered. Textiles show a ‘more is more’ attitude through a mash-up of glam, gradients and spectrums, fake fur, pile and fringe, jacquard weaves and fantastic prints. The flashy, kitsch colour range becomes brutally glam thanks to electric sheen, synthetic shimmer, digital glitch and artful blur. A riot of clashes and rebellion.

PURE SPIRITUAL

Idealists seek perfection and purity, restoring equilibrium by connecting with the uber-natural. They embrace technology for good while shifting between realism and mysticism in pursuit of a personal haven. To address a renewed bond with nature, organic matter, raw materials and pure textiles are selected which show nature’s traces, organic structures and irregularities. Shades are created from the earth and cultured by man. An elemental and pure range reflects the source of their existence.

ACTIVE URBAN

Urban dwellers confront the challenges of the fast paced, shape-shifting, man-made environment by searching for utilitarian, adaptable solutions. They value tech performance while making smart use of  available and renewable resources. Functionality is prioritised, while looking cool and working well remains key. Interior/sportswear hybrid textiles show smooth surfaces and a fun mash-up of graphic textures. The palette shows uniform blue, asphalt grey and caterpillar yellow.

HERITAGE LUX

Preservers of historic legacies treasure sensuousness alongside the uncanny, enlightenment together with darkness, for a whole new immersive experience. This new narrative translates to a love for luxury and splendour, decoration and embellishment. Finding beauty in history and nature through ornamental patterning and alluring surface enhancement. Reflecting on ancient history results in a palette featuring enigmatic blood red, sapphire and a lustrous mother-of-pearl.

MULTI-LOCAL

Hyper-locals go global, celebrating inclusivity over appropriation, honouring traditional craftsmanship and adjusting the world’s gaze to embrace exchange, creative integrity and diverse identities. Indigenous style meets global influences. This is a celebration of crafted and decorative pattern, from tribal and folkloric to geometric and abstract. Textile colours become part of a wider cultural narrative, linked to local community, cultural heritage and private identity.

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Able to offer an alchemy of design and sustainable innovation, Iluna Group with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei join the latest edition of the Milano Unica fair with a range of innovations capable of combining innovation, aesthetics and quality. "Ethical" lace and stockings, where quality standards go hand in hand with fashion content, respecting both the environment and humans, an offer already selected among the protagonists of the Sustainable Thinking Exhibition of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum, for its value in the field of responsible innovation.

Experts in the production of stretch lace since 1985, ILUNA today represents the largest European laces’producer. Thanks to the effectiveness of their responsible innovation strategy, Iluna Group has been the very first lace producer to have gained the GRS (Global Recycled Standard) for their transformed products, together with the company certification STeP (Sustainable Textile Production by Oeko – Tex®).

STITCH & TEX EXPO - AFRICA EDITION, renowned as “Africa’s No. 1 Trade Fair for textile industries”, is gathering Over 1,200 exhibitors from more than 40 countries; with almost 90% of the available space already booked. The trade fair will occupy a space of 50,000 m² of exhibition space, and more than 40,000 trade visitors, delegates and buyers from all over the African continent are expected to attend the event.

STITCH & TEX EXPO - AFRICA EDITION will feature the new concept of organizing two consecutive trade fairs; The first trade fair is dedicated to garment processing technologies including Sewing, Embroidery, Fabrics and their Accessories; While the second is dedicated to textile processing technologies including Weaving, Spinning, Knitting, and Dyeing Machinery, Technologies and Spare Parts; The two events are held under the giant brand STITCH & TEX EXPO - AFRICA EDITION; and will be held in the prestigious venue Cairo International Conventions and Exhibitions Center- Egypt during the period 27 February - 1 March 2020 and 5 - 8 March 2020 successively.

For eight days, the brightest minds of the textiles technologies business will meet in Cairo to demonstrate the latest industrial know-hows; discuss up-to-date tendencies and set the perception for the future. STITCH & TEX EXPO - AFRICA EDITION calls attention to its superior ranking not only through its prominence with the global industry but also by addressing the current challenges being the performance scale for the entire value chain of the African textile industries Bustling, energetic and wide-ranging, STITCH & TEX EXPO - AFRICA EDITION is a premium multi-format event with a distinct commercial and business identity; where cutting-edge technologies, products, services and turnkey solutions are provided by global strategic players and technology makers to serve the ever - growing evolving textile markets of Africa.

Die Neonyt wird vom 2. bis 4. Juli 2019 erneut zum globalen Hub für Mode, Nachhaltigkeit und Innovation. Führende Marken und spannende Newcomer kommen im Kraftwerk Berlin zusammen. Ein tiefgreifendes Event- und Knowledge-Programm liefert wertvolle Informationen und Networking-Möglichkeiten – von und mit internationalen Vorreitern der Modebranche. Im Besonderen Fokus der Juli-Ausgabe steht das Thema Retail.

Nach der erfolgreichen Premierenveranstaltung unter dem neuen Namen Neonyt lädt die Messe Frankfurt im Juli zur zweiten Ausgabe ihres Mode-Events im Rahmen der Berlin Fashion Week ein. Zugleich jährt sich im Sommer bereits zum zehnten Mal die Gründung der Vorgängerveranstaltung der Neonyt: Im Juli 2009 initiierten Magdalena Schaffrin und Jana Keller den Greenshowroom als Plattform für nachhaltige Mode während der Berlin Fashion Week. Aus ihm ist die heutige Neonyt hervorgegangen. „Wir feiern ein Jahrzehnt nachhaltige Mode am Puls der Zeit. Gemeinsam mit langjährigen Partnern, progressiven Labels und Vordenkern der Modeindustrie ist es uns gelungen, einen weltweit einzigartigen Hub zu etablieren. Saison für Saison sorgt er auf Industrie- und Handelsseite für wertvolle Impulse in Richtung Nachhaltigkeit und Innovation“, sagt Olaf Schmidt, Vice President Textiles & Textile Technologies der Messe Frankfurt.

Programm für konventionelle Händler
Im besonderen Fokus der Sommer-Edition steht das Thema Retail, neben Concept Stores, Boutiquen und Online-Handel insbesondere der konventionelle Modehandel. In Zusammenarbeit mit renommierten Partnern bietet die Neonyt ein umfassendes Programm an – mit Vorträgen, Diskussionen, Networking-Events und einem Showcase. Dabei geht es um Themen, die für den Handel ganz unmittelbar relevant sind, wie etwa die Kommunikation von Nachhaltigkeitsaspekten, Margen, Sortimente, Kollektionen und POS-Lösungen. Darüber hinaus bleibt weiterhin ein hochbrisantes Zukunftsthema im Blickfeld der Neonyt: Wasser. Wie kann die Modeindustrie ihren Impact hinsichtlich Wasserverbrauch minimieren? Oder anders gefragt: Wie lassen sich Produktionsverfahren verändern, um lebenswichtige Ressourcen zu erhalten? Diesen Fragen widmet sich der globale Hub und zeigt progressive Lösungsansätze auf.

This year, AZL won the JEC AWARD 2019 for the development of the new machine system “Ultra-Fast Consolidator Machine”. This innovative machine system is a result of an 18-months AZL Joint Partner Project, conducted in 2017-2018 by the research partners AZL Aachen and Fraunhofer IPT Aachen, in cooperation with industrial partner companies including Conbility, Covestro, Engel, Evonik, Fagor Arrasate, Faurecia SE, Laserline, Mitsui Chemicals, Mubea Carbo Tech, Philips Photonics, SSDT and Toyota (in alphabetical order).

The new UItra-Fast Consolidator Machine offers both high flexibility and mass production of tailored thermoplastic laminates with reduced scrap. Fully consolidated multi-layer laminates with different fiber directions and minimized scrap (tailored blanks) can be produced in cycle times below 5 seconds with this new scalable machine setup. This individualized mass production is accomplished by a combination of laser-assisted tape placement with in-situ consolidation and a piece-flow principle, which is state of the art in the printing industry but has not been used in such a way within composite production. The achievable productivity is enhanced to more than 500 kg/hour by this piece-flow principle with carriers moved through multiple application stations which are equipped with multiple tape placement applicators. The new machine is scalable: multiple application stations can be added, e.g. for each layer one station for mass production or for each fiber direction one station with a carrier-conveyor carousel: here the carriers are moved multiple times through the application stations.

The system will be commercialized by some of the industrial partners in 2019. The real machine setup has been presented at the AZL booth during the JEC Exhibition in Paris 2019.

The follow-up project has just started and is still open to join for industrial partners. This follow-up project comprises a further upscale of the machine system as well as a preparation of the commercialization by long-term durability tests and further process optimizations using different tape materials.

Im Rahmen der Techtextil (14. bis 17. Mai 2019) versammelt das neue Techtextil Forum hochkarätige Referenten zu einer Vielzahl von Themen. Das Programm steht fest.

Nachhaltigkeit, Filtration, Smart Textiles, Composites, Textilien im städtischen Raum, Digitale Transformation und Arbeitswelten, Textilien für den medizinischen Einsatz: Das Programm des neuen Techtextil Forums bietet Fachbesuchern der internationalen Leitmesse für technische Textilien und Vliesstoffe umfangreiche Einblicke in die neuesten Entwicklungen der Branche. Das Techtextil Forum ist kostenfrei und allen Fachbesuchern der Messe in Halle 4.1 offen zugänglich. Das Programm ist ab sofort online verfügbar.

Themenschwerpunkt Nachhaltigkeit und neue Filtrationsmaterialien
Der Messe-Dienstag (14. Mai) startet mit dem Thema Nachhaltigkeit. Das erste Panel des Techtextil Forums bietet unter anderem Beiträge von TWD Fibres zum Textilrecycling, von den Hohenstein Instituten zur Rückverfolgbarkeit von Biobaumwolle, von Centexbel zu biobasierten beschichteten Textilien sowie vom Forschungsinstitut IRT Jules Verne zu Karbonfasern. Im Anschluss folgen Beiträge zum Thema Filtration. Hier dürfen sich Fachbesucher unter anderem auf Beiträge des Sächsischen Textilforschungsinstituts, von Smartpolymer, Wespun India, SWM International sowie von Argaman Technologies freuen.

Nachhaltigkeit steht auch im Mittelpunkt des Vormittagspanels am letzten Messetag, dem 17. Mai, unterstützt und gestaltet vom Dornbirn-GFC (Global Fibre Congress) und moderiert von Friedrich Weninger, Geschäftsführer des Österreichischen Faser-Instituts. Lenzing spricht hier unter anderem über ökologische Materialien und Färbetechnologien für Autositze. Die Universität Maastricht stellt biobasierte Fasern vor, Märkische Faser nachhaltige Polyesterfasern, das Leilat Tech Center Eco-Composites und die Universität Ljubljana nachhaltige, halogenfreie flammresistente Filamente.

Textilien im urbanen Raum, Composites und Smart Textiles
An Tag zwei der Techtextil (15. Mai) stehen zunächst Textilien im urbanen Raum im Fokus, passen zum Special Event der Techtextil und Texprocess „Urban Living – City of the Future“. Unter anderem stehen folgende Beiträge auf dem Programm: Penn Textile Solutions zum Thema Textilbeton, Centexbel zu grünen und lebenden Fassaden sowie Low and Bonar zu Membranstrukturen für Hochleistungsfassaden. Techtera, Owens Corning und die Universität Münster fokussieren in ihren Beiträgen auf Geotextilien. Anschließend stehen in Vorträgen von Karl Mayer Technische Textilien, der FiberCheck GmbH und dem Institut für Textilmaschinen und Textile Hochleistungswerkstofftechnik der TU Dresden Composites im Fokus.

Der Nachmittag des Messe-Mittwoch widmet sich dem Thema Smart Textiles und gibt Fachbesuchern Einblicke in Themen wie Textilien in Verbindung mit dem Internet of Things, hier mit dem ersten kommunizierenden Reißverschluss des französischen Startups Genius Objects. Das Sächsische Textilforschungsinstitut STFI präsentiert unter anderem Verbundschaumstoffe mit integrierter Sensorik für Wearables und leitfähige Garne und Bänder. Smarte Gestricke stehen im Mittelpunkt bei TexMind und der Universität Westböhmen. Centexbel beschäftigen sich mit der Waschbarkeit smarter Textilien und Eschler Textil sprechen über die virtuelle Entwicklung gewebter und gestrickter textiler Wearables.

Digitale Transformation, Arbeit 4.0 und künstliche Intelligenz sowie technische Textilien in der Medizin
Digitalisierung ist das Schlagwort für den Vormittag des 16. Mai. Das Sächsische Textilforschungsinstitut Chemnitz  (STFI) und die ITA Academy GmbH geben Einblicke in die Fabrik der Zukunft und das Thema Industrie 4.0. Virtuelles Design, Produktentwicklung und Farbmanagement sowie digitales und somit effizientes Materialhandling geben Audaces, die Hochschule Niederrhein, die mode information GmbH sowie die Vizoo GmbH. Coloreel, Preisträger des Texprocess Innovation Award 2017, spricht über ihr neues Sofortfärbegerät für die Stickerei und Multiplot über Digitalen Textildruck. Unterstützt vom Mittelstand 4.0-Kompetenzzentrum Textil vernetzt bietet der nachfolgende Block unter dem Thema „Textil macht´s vor: Arbeit 4.0 und künstliche Intelligenz“ Einblick in die Digitalisierung der textilen Arbeitswelt (Institut für Textiltechnik der RWTH Aachen) und die Einbindung künstlicher Intelligenz in die textile Produktion (DITF und Hanh-Schickard-Gsellschaft). Ein Diskussionspanel thematisiert smarte und flexible Arbeitswelten.  

Hightech-Textilien für den Einsatz in der Medizin stehen am Nachmittag des 16. Mai im Fokus. Angeboten werden unter anderem Vorträge zu Schutzkleidung für die  Arbeit mit Hochdruckwasserstrahlern vom TITV, Textilien für das Schweiß- und Geruchsmanagement von der Hohenstein Laboratories GmbH und Sanitized sowie für das optimierte Wärmemanagement mithilfe Graphen-basierten Textilien.

• Oerlikon presents its expanded nonwovens product portfolio at the IDEA 2019 in Miami

Neumünster – Oerlikon presents its complete nonwoven plant portfolio for the production of airlaid, meltblown, spunbonded and hybrid materials at this year’s IDEA in Miami from 25–28 March. The focus of its presentation will be on solutions for hygiene, medical and other disposable nonwovens. Visitors to this year’s IDEA can inform themselves on the wide range of products at Oerlikon’s exhibition stand (no. 1724).

Two strong partnerships for disposable nonwovens

While two years ago the Nonwoven business unit of the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment focused almost exclusively on solutions for technical applications, the company has now expanded its product portfolio to include solutions for disposable nonwovens by establishing strong partnerships.

Oerlikon & Teknoweb Materials – two strong partners for the nonwoven industry

As early as spring 2017, Oerlikon Manmade Fibers' Nonwoven business unit had entered into a strategic partnership with the Italian company Teknoweb Materials. Teknoweb Materials is an established technology supplier in the field of wipes and other disposable nonwovens. With its LEVRA technology, the company has its own patented, particularly efficient manufacturing process for wipes. It also has extensive process know-how on the making and further processing of these nonwoven materials. The Nonwoven business unit of Oerlikon’s Manmade Fibers segment completes this partnership with its well-established machine and plant solutions. Teknoweb Materials will also be represented at IDEA at the Oerlikon exhibition stand (no. 1724).

Cooperation with Shaoyang Textile Machinery

For spunmelt systems solutions for hygiene and medical applications, Oerlikon has been in cooperation with the Chinese machine and plant manufacturer Shaoyang Textile Machinery since Autumn of last year. The goal of these cooperation partners is to advance the international marketing of spunmelt plants outside of China. Oerlikon Manmade Fibers’ Nonwoven business unit contributes its plant engineering know-how and is responsible for product and process guarantees. Oerlikon also assumes the overall project responsibility as well as world-wide customer service outside of China. In return, Shaoyang, with its headquarters in the city of the same name in the Hunan province, supplies the plant technologies.The advantage for the customer: competitive solutions at an attractive price level with comparatively low investments.