From the Sector

At the upcoming edition of CAITME, to be held in Tashkent, Uzbekistan from September 11 to September 14, 2024, 16 Italian textile machinery manufacturers will exhibit in the common area set up by the Italian Trade Agency and ACIMIT.

All these companies are ACIMIT’s associated members: Bonino, Brazzoli, Carù, Erhardt+Leimer, Guarneri Technology, Ima, Laip. Lgl, Martex, Mei, Mesdan, Pinter Caipo Italia, Pugi Group, Sicam, Stalam, Ugolini.

Uzbekistan is one of the largest producers and exporters of cotton and its textile industry is a relevant driver for the national economy. Thanks to the raw material’s availability and low production costs the business conditions are favourable for the development of the local industry. The upgrading of installed equipment is considered a step to achieve this goal.

Italian textile technology is well known by the Uzbek textile companies. In 2023, Italian sales in Uzbekistan amounted to 21 million euro. Among the Italian machines most in demand by Uzbek textile companies are weaving machines (32% of total 2023 Italian exports), followed by finishing machines (30%), spinning machines (17%), knitting machines (14%) and accessories (7%). At CAITME Italian exhibitors will show the most advanced technology applied to the textile sector, offering proper solutions in terms of efficiency, costs saving and sustainability.

Finishing machinery specialist Monforts will exhibit at the upcoming Febratex textile machinery exhibition taking place in Blumenau, Brazil, from August 20-23, along with Uniferro, its new regional partner.

This new alliance follows the retirement of Herbert Erdmann of the service agency Euro Texteis, who has worked with Monforts over more than 30 years to secure a leading position in the region for Montex stenter dryers, Thermex dyeing ranges and associated finishing technology.

With offices in Sao Paulo and Ceara and sub-agents across Brazil, Uniferro has been active in the textile industry for over 50 years.

coaTTex
At Febratex, Monforts will introduce its latest coaTTex coating unit exclusively dedicated to air knife and knife-over-roller coating. For single-sided application with paste or foam, the versatile coater is suitable for both incorporation into existing finishing ranges as well as installation with new Monforts Montex stenter systems.

A wide range of coatings can be applied to fabrics for providing functions such as waterproofing, liquid and gas protection and breathability, in addition to foam lamination and black-out coating.

Denim hub
Brazil remains a buoyant hub for textile manufacturing with a particular stength in the denim dyeing and finishing sector and many Monforts Thermex hotflue dyeing systems are already operational in the region, reaping the benefits of the Econtrol® process.

Econtrol® is a continuous process for the dyeing of woven cotton and cellulosic fabrics, especially denim, in which reactive dyestuffs are fixed into the fabric in a one-step dyeing and drying process with a controlled combination of steam and air. The entire pad-dry process takes just two-to-three minutes.

“Differentiation is the key in the highly-competitive denim fabrics industry, whether through the successful incorporation of new fibres, accommodating new fabric constructions or exploring the many options for how to treat them at the finishing stage, to gain a market advantage,” says says Monforts Regional Sales Manager Achim Gesser. “Our lines allow users to be extremely versatile and respond quickly to market demand, while also allowing very short production runs.”

Because finishing is a particularly energy-intensive part of the textile production chain, it is exactly where convincing results can be achieved, he adds, and Monforts has developed a wide range of energy-saving. These included a range of heat recovery systems, such as the Universal Energy Tower and the ECO Booster. Both can also be retrofitted to existing ranges to make production more resource-efficient and economical, yet without having to invest in a new machine.

“Energy costs tend to be high in Brazil and can account for up to 70% of production costs for our customers, so there is great demand for ways of saving money,” says Gesser. “Cutting energy usage also helps in terms of global warming and reducing carbon footprint, of course, so these latest technologies are a win-win for fabric finishers. As we look forward to a promising partnership with Uniferro in Brazil, we would like to extend our thanks and best wishes for the future to Herbert Erdmann for his hard work over the years.”

KARL MAYER GROUP has developed a sophisticated system for considerable energy savings when operating the cylinder dryers in its PROSIZE® sizing machines and BLUEDYE dyeing plant.

Saving costs with inline energy recycling
The innovation is called CASCADE and focuses on steam as a heating medium in cylinder dryers. And for good reason: according to the IPCC report by ITMF Zurich, one tonne of steam cost between USD 20 and just under USD 27 internationally in 2021. The new solution relies on reuse to reduce the amount of process energy required.
"CASCADE recirculates parts of the process steam in cylinder dryers, enabling genuine, efficient energy recycling within the machine," explains Karl-Heinz Vaassen, Head of Textile Drying at KARL MAYER.
The customer benefits from significantly lower energy costs and CO2 emissions. With a view to the Asian market, a dryer with 14 cylinders and a running time of 7,000 working hours can achieve cost savings of up to USD 17,000 per year.

Precise, real savings values are available when looking at the machine dashboard. A sensor provides real-time data on the amount of steam circulating in the circuit, from which the corresponding reduction in CO2 equivalents can be calculated.

Utilizing the pressure drop
CASCADE reuses part of the invested process energy and uses the flash-steam in conjunction with the pressure ratios, which - nomen est omen - decrease in cascades in the different zones of the cylinder dryer.
The highest working pressure prevails in the first cylinder section. The heat transfer medium steam emits large amounts of energy for yarn drying and condenses without temperature loss.

The resulting hot condensate is not immediately discharged from the machine, but is instead fed into a flash tank, where vapor exhaust is formed as a result of the pressure reduction. In conventional systems, the carrier medium for gases is only created in the return line towards the boiler house and is eliminated as undesirable. Instead of being utilised in the process, it escapes into the environment. With the CASCADE system, this "freshly recycled steam" is used for the heat supply in the second cylinder section, but not without prior treatment.

In the system patented by KARL MAYER, the recycled steam is intelligently mixed with live steam and thus raised to the level of the required process conditions for use in the cylinder section at the end of the dryer. Here, the fabric moisture is reduced to the desired residual value at medium pressure and temperature conditions.

Market launch is underway
CASCADE was filed for patent by the KARL MAYER GROUP. It was published in September 2023.
The innovative solution at no extra charge was presented at ITM 2024 in Istanbul and was a visitor highlight at the KARL MAYER GROUP stand.

From January 2024, CASCADE will be part of the PROSIZE® as standard. The first sizing machine with the upgrade for greater energy efficiency will be delivered in the second quarter of this year. It will go to a manufacturer in Europe. In the next step, CASCADE will be integrated into other dryer types and will also be available for the BLUEDYE.

Breaking new ground in plastics recycling means assessing the value chain from end to end. The big opportunities for the future are in fine-tuning the individual process steps; from the collection of recyclable materials to the recycling process and the end product. This is where the cooperation of Lindner and the EREMA Group comes in, officially launched following the 50/50 founding of the holding BLUEONE Solutions in August 2023 to which shares of Lindner Washtech were contributed. The expertise of EREMA, a manufacturer of extruders and filtration solutions for plastics recycling and the largest company within the EREMA Group, has now been combined with the expert know-how from Lindner Washtech, a leading provider of all-in-one solutions for shredding, sorting and washing plastic feed materials.

Data transfer ensures more efficient recycling processes
Process control is an especially important aspect of plastics recycling, which is why standardising the process control system was what the two companies focused on first. "Together, we have developed a platform that allows data to be exchanged between the extruder and the washing system," says Manfred Hackl, CEO of the EREMA Group at IFAT in Munich. "This enables us to analyse the data more precisely so that effective improvement measures can be deduced." All key parameters are taken into account and monitored via a digital interface. For example, it is possible to use information relating to the current throughput of the EREMA Pre Conditioning Unit to optimise the washing process as soon as possible so that it can compensate for fluctuations in capacity and achieve a significant increase in output. This data transfer represents a new step on the roadmap to digitalization.

High efficiency due to smart energy management
"To ensure sustainable recycling, it is necessary to find the right process for each application and to make sure that the individual process steps are perfectly coordinated," emphasizes Michael Lackner, Managing Director of Lindner. Coordinating the process steps has already achieved initial success in energy management, and a clear example of this is heat recovery. "We use the latent heat generated during the extrusion process as an energy source for the washing and drying process," explains Lackner. "This enables our customers to sustainably reduce their energy costs and carbon emissions".

Making the most of synergies along the value chain
Synergies need to be used to establish the quality standards specified for each end application. "The key question is how we can improve the end product and increase the overall efficiency of the recycling process at the same time," agree Manfred Hackl and Michael Lackner. This will only work if companies work together along the value chain. The industry leaders can already point to several examples where together they have improved recycling processes and made it possible to move away from downcycling. "An example of this is the recycling loop of HDPE starting material, which is processed into high-quality, food-safe rHDPE pellets using our two technologies," says Lackner. Lindner Washtech and EREMA continue to work intensively together to develop strategies for upcycling plastics and increase recycling rates.

Together with international partners from industry and research, the DITF are presenting the Digital Textile Micro Factory at drupa's touchpoint textile (from May 28 to June 7, 2024). A fully networked on-demand production of sports products will be presented - from virtual design to the finished product.

One highlight is the material buffer between the printer and cutter, which links the continuous printing process with the step-by-step cutting process. At the end of the production chain, a robot arm sorts all the cut parts belonging to a product, such as the front and back sections, sleeves and collar trim of a T-shirt, into the corresponding boxes. Manual handling is only necessary in exceptional cases.

In future, digitally networked design and production chains will make it possible to react quickly and specifically to customer wishes and trends. This approach protects the environment and conserves resources: instead of producing mass-produced goods for the trash, the products are tailored precisely to requirements. At the trade fair, the carbon footprint from virtual development to the finished product will also be determined and explained using a model.

The Dutch company Knitwear Lab helps visions become reality. The creative think tank offers capacities in the areas of R&D, design, knitwear development and production of prototypes and small quantities and has thus implemented a wide range of projects in recent years. The objects range from medical products and high-tech sportswear to smart textiles with integrated sensors. Sustainability activities are also part of the repertoire, such as the production of yarns from recycled waste.

Knitwear Lab operates at two locations for its diverse tasks: Almere in the Netherlandsis available for development work. In Istanbul, there is a branch for production. Both Knitwear Lab sites each have five STOLL flat knitting machines, including models from the modern ADF range. Prototypes are produced in Almere and there is small-scale production. The production plant in Istanbul specializes in the manufacture of high-quality knitwear in small quantities. STOLL is also involved in the creative processes. For the industrial development of knitwear, Knitwear Lab offers Virtual Knitting, a revolutionary method that combines virtual and physical elements of pattern development and knitwear production to reduce waste and pre-production steps. Customers can use Virtual Knitting to create realistic, producible collections, simplify their design iteration processes and take advantage of the wide range of real-life colorways. The basis for this is comprehensive knitwear expertise, the latest 3D software and the CREATE PLUS patterning software, which was developed by STOLL together with KM.ON.

"The 3D visualization of CREATE simplifies communication with the customer considerably. We use this function every day," says Annika Klaas, Senior Knitwear Programmer. She personally appreciates the uncomplicated grading and exchange of stitch dimensions and the much faster and more efficient work with Dimensioned Shapes that this makes possible. This helps her in her day-to-day work. "We often have requests to realize the same product in different yarns, which now works much faster," says the programmer. Further simplifications would include minor optimizations in terms of the efficiency and user-friendliness of programming and additional import and export options for shapes. Discussions on implementation are already underway.

Santoni Shanghai Knitting Machinery Co., Ltd. announces that it has received regulatory approval from Chinese authorities for its proposed acquisition of Terrot GmbH, a manufacturer of circular knitting machines in Germany.

The acquisition represents a pivotal step in Santoni's strategy to advance the circular knitting machine industry. The integration of Terrot into the Santoni ecosystem is projected to increase Santoni's production capacity and boost its market share, and in conjunction with other strategic objectives, firmly solidify Santoni's position as the leading manufacturer in the industry, with unrivaled scale, depth of innovation and expertise.

Seeking to meet rising demand for high-end circular knitting products, Santoni has pursued an Ecosystem Strategy in recent years, aiming to unify a highly fragmented industry and enhance innovation, sustainability and digitalization to more effectively meet market needs. The deployment of both parties' latest innovation practices, textile automation offerings, integrated enterprise services, C2M solutions, and a platform for designers "Materialliance", will allow Santoni Shanghai and Terrot to connect and bridge demand and offer of circular knitted products.

By incorporating Terrot's offerings, particularly in the double jersey and jacquard sector, Santoni stands to gain a competitive edge in offering machines known for their performance, low maintenance, and cost-effectiveness. Highlighting this shift is Terrot's UCC 572-T, a transfer jacquard machine for sports and leisurewear.

Following the acquisition, Terrot will continue to operate under the leadership of managing directors Robert W. Czajkowski and Dirk Lange. Santoni plans to maintain Terrot’s headquarters in Chemnitz, Germany, along with its facilities, brands, and practices.

Carbios inaugurated its textile preparation line at its demonstration plant in Clermont-Ferrand, in the presence of Mr. Lescure, French Minister for Industry. To streamline the textile preparation phase, which is currently carried out by hand or on several lines, Carbios has developed a fully integrated and automated line that transforms textile waste from used garments or cutting scraps into raw material suitable for depolymerization with its enzymatic biorecycling process. This patented line integrates all preparation stages (shredding and extraction of hard points such as buttons or fasteners), and provides Carbios with a high-performance, scalable development tool. The platform will help validate the biorecycling technology for textiles at demonstration plant scale (by 2024), and provides Carbios with expertise in working with collection and sorting operators to specify the quality of textiles and the preparation steps needed to make them suitable for enzymatic recycling. This expertise will also be invaluable to brands in the eco-design of their products.

Current collection, sorting and preparation infrastructures limit the amount of textile waste available for “fiber-to-fiber” recycling. Collection rates average around 15-25% worldwide^[1], and much of the waste collected is exported to Africa, Asia or Latin America for sorting.

Moreover, textiles are highly complex materials, with yarns of different composition (or nature) that are difficult, if not impossible, to physically separate. However, the highly selective enzyme developed by Carbios can specifically depolymerize the PET (polyester) present in textile material.

At present, textiles are sorted and prepared mainly by hand, with low yields, particularly for disruptors to recycling processes such as “hard points” (zips, buttons, etc.). To optimize this crucial phase, Carbios is contributing a textile preparation solution to accelerate the development of biorecycling in the textile industry. Enzymatic recycling, or biorecycling, therefore contributes to the construction of a textile recycling chain and the acceleration of textile circularity, also enabling brands to do away with used bottles.

^[1] Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017

Stahl, a leading provider of coating technologies for flexible substrates, has been awarded a Platinum rating by the sustainability rating agency EcoVadis for the second consecutive year. For the 2023 EcoVadis assessment, Stahl’s rating increased by three points compared to its 2022 score, reflecting the company’s improved performance in the area of labour and human rights.

Progress in the Labour & Human Rights category
The 2023 EcoVadis assessment revealed the progress Stahl is making in the Labour & Human Rights category, where Stahl scored 90 out of a possible 100 points. This reflects the company's recent work to improve its health and safety management systems. In particular, the majority of Stahl’s global manufacturing sites are now ISO 45001 certified and more than 94% are ISO 14001 certified. Stahl has also taken steps to improve its approach to employee career development and well-being. These include the creation of an individual career plan for all employees and the introduction of a new company-wide employee satisfaction survey.
 
Stahl moves forward with 2030 ESG ambitions
Stahl has set a 2030 target to maintain its EcoVadis Platinum rating by working closely with its value chain partners to help them reduce their impact. In 2022, 83% of Stahl’s total spend on raw materials was sourced from EcoVadis-rated suppliers.

EcoVadis is a globally recognised, evidence-based rating platform that assesses the performance of more than 90,000 organisations against key sustainability criteria across four categories: Environment, Labour & Human Rights, Ethics and Sustainable Procurement. For the 2023 EcoVadis assessment, Stahl received an overall score of 80 out of 100, up from 77 in 2022. This score indicates an advanced level of sustainability maturity and ensures that Stahl retains its Platinum rating. This is awarded to the top 1% of companies assessed by EcoVadis. Stahl achieved its first Platinum rating in 2022, having undergone its first EcoVadis assessment in 2015.

SETEX Schermuly textile computer GmbH, a global leader in manufacturing process management software and textile machinery controls, is pleased to announce the transfer of a majority stake to Elvaston Capital Management GmbH.

Private equity partner Elvaston has established the overarching Textile Solutions Holding GmbH. This company will manage a portfolio of technology companies that ensure seamless integration along the textile process chain and introduce unique market functionalities.

The current company owners of SETEX, Christoph and Oliver Schermuly, will continue their roles as managing directors.

SETEX is convinced that this step will further expand SETEX's competitiveness and growth potential.