From the Sector

Digital printing is gaining in importance and increasingly relegating conventional printing methods to the bench. In the new episode of the Blue Couch Series, Sappi and the Durst Group, two seasoned industry leaders, explain what is behind the success of this printing method and which markets offer the greatest future potential for digital printing.

The new challenges manufacturers are currently facing include a growing demand for faster production and delivery, an ever-increasing variety of products, small production volumes and the trend towards more personalised campaigns.

In the latest episode of the Blue Couch Series, Andrea Riccardi, Head of Product Management at Durst, as well as Paola Tiso, Sappi’s Head of Sales Digital Solutions, and Luis Mata, Sales Director Packaging & Digital Solutions, will be talking about how digital printing can meet market demands for timely production with shorter runs and high flexibility, while reducing production costs through changed production processes.

One focus will be on the growing market for corrugated boards. Viewers will learn how the exponential growth of e-commerce and the growing pressure for more sustainable solutions are fuelling innovations for the digitalisation of packaging. The other main topic, digital dye sublimation printing, also offers a wide range of benefits to manufacturers in the interior design, decoration, visual communication, sports and fashion sectors and supports the industry's requirements to produce more sustainably.  

The “Digital Printing – far more than just a printing process” episode will air on 2 November at 10am (CET) at: www.sappi-bluecouch.com.

SABIC has announced that the newly formed Hygiene & Healthcare segment of its Petrochemicals business will showcase its extensive portfolio of SABIC PURECARES™ polypropylene (PP) and polyethylene (PE) polymers for high-purity nonwovens and hygiene films at the upcoming INDEX™ Expo in Geneva, Switzerland, from October 19 through 22, 2021. The company will also present enabling solutions developed with partners to address the issue of plastic waste and support the transformation of the industry towards a circular economy with closed-loop initiatives and certified circular polymers under its TRUCIRCLE™ portfolio and services.

During INDEX, SABIC will exhibit a wide range of PP polymers targeted at these needs. Highlights on display will include dedicated PP and PE grades for lightweight nonwoven fabrics using the latest spunbond and meltblown processes, and a new ultra-high melt flow PP product engineered for meltblown fibers in nonwoven fabrics. The nonwoven focus will be complemented by industry proven polyolefins for cast and blown film applications in hygiene webs and laminates, providing desirable back and top sheet properties such as water tightness, breathability and elasticity.

In addition, SABIC will also present ISCC Plus certified fiber and film polymers based on circular and renewable PP and PE polymer technology as part of the company’s TRUCIRCLE portfolio for advancing the transformation of the plastics industry from a linear to a truly circular economy. Examples of this comprehensive initiative include collaborations with various market leaders in the field. Together with Fibertex Personal Care, one of the world’s largest manufacturers of spunbond nonwovens for the hygiene industry, SABIC is creating a range of high-purity nonwovens for the hygiene market using ISCC PLUS certified circular PP polymer derived from post-consumer plastic waste. In another project, Fraunhofer Institute, SABIC and Procter & Gamble (P&G) joined forces to develop and demonstrate the feasibility of an advanced close-loop recycling process for used nonwoven facemasks.

Avgol®, an Indorama Ventures company and manufacturer of high performance nonwoven fabric solutions, will be showcasing its latest work in biotransformation technology for polyolefin fibers and nonwoven fabrics at this year’s IndexTM 20 exhibition.
Avgol will be discussing the global challenge of eliminating incineration, landfill, dumping and, in particular, fugitive material pollution from non-woven products.

natureFIT™ is the newest innovation in the Avgol technology platform designed to imbue nonwoven fabrics with additional qualities and benefits that anticipate the shifting demands of the consumer-led retail space. The suite of fabric solutions is focused on replacing elements of spun melt fabric design, where possible, with natural alternatives. The advanced technology affords product designers a significant reduction in polymer consumption to reduce environmental impact while simultaneously enhancing softness and conformability.

The Index 20 expo will be held on 19 – 22nd October 2021 at Palexpo Geneva.

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) President and CEO Kim Glas issued a statement following President Biden’s remarks on the global supply chain crisis and stressed the importance of investing onshoring and nearshoring:

"We appreciate President Biden’s call to ensure we are building more resilient and reliable supply chains and to invest in our manufacturing industries here at home, in his address earlier today.

There is a reason we got into this mess and there is a reason we have a global supply chain crisis. Years of offshoring production in a race to the bottom –exacerbated by predatory trade practices that have undermined so many manufacturing industries--has led to a tipping point. In fact, it was not too long ago that nurses in New York City and beyond were wearing garbage bags as gowns as our overreliance on Chinese production chains exposed severe fragilities in keeping our health care workers safe during the height of the pandemic.

China’s virtually unlimited and unrealistic pricing power coupled with its subsidies and lack of enforceable environmental standards strips benefits and undermines policy objectives, and leaves us in an untenable situation of overreliance on a foreign supply chain for critical products and raw materials. This must change.

We must hold China accountable for predatory trade practices that have offshored our industries and our jobs. We must onshore and nearshore more textile and apparel production chains out of Asia to the U.S. and also to Western Hemisphere trade partners. This has a multitude of benefits to ensure more reliability in production and also has remarkable job benefits to U.S. manufacturers and our allied trading partners who adhere to higher labor and environmental standards. Further, it will help address the migration crisis and grow better paying jobs.

Now is the time to we need to unlock long-term commitments to source product from the USA and from our Hemispheric partners.  If we moved another 10 percent of global production to the U.S. and the Hemisphere, imagine the benefits that could be achieved.  Ensuring further verticalization and investment in all aspects of the industry, from raw materials to finished products, is good for the American economy and workers in the U.S. and in the region.

Our industry stands ready to help and provide the solutions to onshore and nearshore these production chains that benefit manufacturing workers, the U.S. economy, our Western Hemisphere allies, and consumers.   Further, onshoring and nearshoring these critical production chains has remarkable benefits for the environment and addresses the growing, systemic and alarming issues associated with climate change.  

It is critical that supply chains mitigate risks so that we are never in this situation again.  We appreciate President Biden recognizing the value of onshoring these critical production chains and stand ready to work with the administration in these efforts."

Knopf’s Sohn, a contract finisher of technical textiles, has installed a fully automated Montex stenter at its plant in Helmbrechts, Germany.
Knopf’s Sohn is processing technical textiles for the automotive, aerospace, home furnishings and workwear markets, based on wool, cellulose, polyamide and polyester fabrics, along with elastane blends, in weights of 80-800gsm.

The Montex machinery range is constantly being upgraded to meet evolving customer needs for greater automation, ease of operation and energy optimisation. The latest ten chamber line at Knopf’s Sohn, with a working width of up to 2.0 metres, was engineered to specific requirements in order to accelerate the company’s move to fully automatic control of its production, and high scaffolding was required for its installation.

The line benefits from two integrated ECO Booster modules to provide high energy savings. These compact, air-to-air heat exchangers, installed within the roof structure of the line, exploit energy from the exhaust gas to preheat up to 60% of the incoming fresh air entering the stenter.

The use of a single ECO Booster unit has been calculated to save up to 35% in energy costs, based on fixation processes. Fully automatic operation, set at the Monforts Qualitex control unit, ensures there is no additional burden on the machine operator.

The line is powered by Exxotherm indirect heating, which practically eliminates the yellowing which can be experienced during the treatment of certain polyamide and elastane-based fabrics, and is also equipped with a Conticlean circulating air filter system for constant high drying capacity.

Software
The latest Qualitex visualisation software offers operators reliability and easy control with its full HD multi-touch monitor and slider function, dashboard function with individual adaptation to operating states and faster access to comprehensive recipe data management.

With the Monformatic control system, the exact maintenance of the dwell time in combined treatment processes (drying and heat-setting) can be monitored. When the heat-setting point is reached, the fan speed is automatically adjusted, keeping energy consumption fully under control.

Fashion 4 Development and C.L.A.S.S. Eco Hub are pleased to announce the launch of their digital platform called “The Reclothe’s Platform”. The digital platform, which is a joint venture between the two companies, is expected to add significant value to all the stakeholders in the fashion and lifestyle industry. The core objective of the Reclothe’s Platform is to be a one-stop source of information and guide for professionals and students in the fashion and lifestyle industry.

The ReClothe platform will feature current innovators highlighting the practices & solutions for textile and manufacturers, pushing the industry towards a greener and more sustainable standard. The platform will lead members into scalable and more responsible manufacturing processes, driving responsible innovation practices across all aspects of the supply chain, measured and proved.
 
The joint venture was created in 2021 by Fashion 4 Development and C.L.A.S.S. Eco Hub to support the United Nations Office of Partnerships for the Sustainable Development Goals. Both Fashion 4 Development and C.L.A.S.S. Eco Hub are recognized for their experiences working from broad perspectives to advance the sustainability transformation

Officina+39, an Italian sustainable chemical developer, attends Superstudio Più in Milan to show its technical progress and share its concrete contribution to a more Trustainable™ denim. Under the spotlight, among multiple innovations, the latest addition to the Officina+39 family: the brand-new NOVASCRAPER INDIGO.

NOVASCRAPER INDIGO, the new technology for classic aesthetics
NOVASCRAPER INDIGO allows to give a natural vintage look to denim garments through laser finishing, an actual innovative alternative to manual scraping. NOVASCRAPER INDIGO guarantees a natural effect with unparalleled quality and accuracy, requiring less manpower and less rejection rate when compared to manual scraping.

The Sixth Sense: less water, more Trustainability
Officina+39 and Tejidos Royo joined forces to create a denim line that drastically reduces water consumption: this is “The Sixth Sense”, a project concretely inspired by the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development and specifically by its SDG6, calling to action to ensure access to water and sanitation for all. Officina+39 personally accepts this global challenge by contributing to the realization of “The Sixth Sense” with its AQUALESS MISSION. Featuring three cutting-edge laundry products for one innovative process, AQUALESS MISSION combines the application of REMOVER BC, AQUALESS AGED – a waterless compound to give denim abrasion effects –, and OZ-ONE POWDER – an advanced product to give garments a bleached yet eco-friendly treatment in a dry application, for a worn and distressed look. Compatible with conventional washing and treatment machinery, it allows for water consumption savings up to 75%.
Focused on driving sustainability in the textile industry, Tejidos Royo uses low-impact fibers and yarns as a raw material and the implementation of foam-dyeing technology with its Dry Indigo®, the first-ever technology to foam-dye denim with zero water use and no water discharge.

CircularKromia: a colorful path for preloved garments
At Officina+39 the word “waste” becomes synonymous with opportunity, a source to create something new, fostering true, Trustainable™ circularity. This is the background to the collaboration with Atelier Riforma, an innovative startup born in Turin (Italy) with a social vocation. Through the contribution of Officina+39’s RECYCROM™, it has been possible to obtain new pigment and dyestuff pulverizing discarded garments and pieces usually difficult to recover through tailoring transformation alone. The collection made it possible not to generate any waste, no new raw materials were required to create CircularKromia.

The Circle Book 2: the power of collaboration and circularity
A collective project gathering a total of ten companies with common goals focused on transparency and circularity in denim design, The Circle Book is now in its second edition that culminated in CULTURE.IN, a circular capsule collection transparently made from recycled and degradable materials.

Officina+39 opens its doors, with Lenzing and Meidea
In the evening of October 13, the recently inaugurated brand-new headquarters of Officina+39 in Biella opened their doors to welcome denim personalities, brands, designers and partners to show where Officina+39's innovative technologies are created, to network and celebrate while preparing new steps towards the design of a more circular and – of course – Trustainable™ fashion Industry.

Dow and Ralph Lauren Corporation released a detailed manual on how to dye cotton more sustainably and more effectively than ever before using ECOFAST™ Pure Sustainable Textile Treatment. With this manual, Ralph Lauren and Dow are open-sourcing this improved dyeing process to encourage adoption in the textile industry and help standardize a more sustainable and efficient cotton dyeing system for positive environmental impact.  

The co-developed, step-by-step manual details how to use ECOFAST™ Pure, a cationic cotton treatment developed by Dow, with existing dyeing equipment. Ralph Lauren, the first brand to use ECOFAST™ Pure, partnered with Dow to optimize and implement the technology in its cotton dyeing operations as part of its new Color on Demand platform.

Conventional fabric dyeing processes require trillions of liters of water each year, generating roughly 20% of the world’s wastewater.^{1, 2} Pretreating fabric with ECOFAST™ Pure helps significantly reduce the amount of water, chemicals and energy needed to color cotton, by enabling up to 90% less process chemicals, 50% less water, 50% less dyes and 40% less energy without sacrificing color or quality.³

Ralph Lauren began integrating Color on Demand into its supply chain earlier this year and first launched product utilizing ECOFAST™ Pure as part of the Company’s Team USA collection for the Olympic & Paralympic Games Tokyo 2020. Designed to help address water scarcity and pollution caused by cotton dyeing, Color on Demand is a multi-phased system with a clear ambition to deliver over time the world’s first scalable zero wastewater cotton dyeing system. By 2025, the brand aims to use the Color on Demand platform to dye more than 80% of its solid cotton products.

¹ Drew, Deborah and Genevieve Yehounme. “The Apparel Industry’s Environmental Impact in 6 Graphics.” World Resources Institute, July 5, 2017. https://www.wri.org/blog/2017/07/apparel-industrys-environmental-impact-6-graphics
² Rep. A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning Fashion’s Future. Ellen MacArthur Foundation, Circular Fibres Initiative, 2017. https://ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/a-new-textiles-economy
³ A full third-party reviewed and validated life cycle assessment is available by request at www.dow.com/ecofast.

Dieses Modul befasst sich mit der industriellen Umsetzung von Knitwear Design und deren Produktion.
Unabhängig davon, ob man selbstständig in einem kleinen Unternehmen oder als Designer/in einem Konzern arbeitet, vermittelt dieses Modul Besonderheiten im Herstellungsprozess von Strick, damit Kollektionen erfolgreich erstellt werden können. Dazu werden Eigenheiten in der Supply Chain behandelt und Lösungen aufgezeigt, die von der Beschaffung der ersten Prototypen bis hin zur Auslieferung vor Ort beim Produzenten reichen. In diesem Zusammenhang wird auch auf die Preisgestaltung sowie die Parameter zur Qualitätssicherung eingegangen.

Um eine professionelle Darstellung von Entwürfen zu erhalten, werden Grundlagenkompetenzen in strickspezifischen, digitalen Zeichenprogrammen vermittelt (KaledoKnit). Dieses Grundverständnis vereinfacht die Erstellung von Motiven und Bindungen auf der Strickmaschine. Weiter kommt in diesem Modul das Softwareprogramm «DesignaKnit» zum Einsatz. Dieses ermöglicht das Erstellen von reproduzierbaren Modellen, welche für eine Produktion essenziell sind. Um das Fachwissen über die Flachstrickerei abzurunden, werden gängige Industriestrickmaschinen mit ihren diversen Möglichkeiten aufgezeigt.

• Eigenheiten in der internationalen Beschaffung, mit Fokus auf die generelle Auftragsabwicklung, kennen und verstehen.
• Parameter in der Preisgestaltung der Maschenware kennen und anwenden.
• Qualitätssichernde Massnahmen für Musterung und Produktion kennen und anwenden.
• DesignaKnit kennen und anwenden.
• Digitale Zeichenprogramme kennen und anwenden (KaledoKnit)

• Mit Wirkung zum 15. Oktober 2021 übernimmt Bettina Bär in Personalunion den Show Director-Posten der Neonyt und des neuen Messeformats Val:ue im Bereich Textiles & Textile Technologies der Messe Frankfurt. Beide Messen finden im Rahmen der Frankfurt Fashion Week statt.

Künftig verantwortet Bettina Bär die strategische und konzeptionelle Ausrichtung der beiden Messeformate Neonyt und Val:ue sowie die inhaltliche und organisatorische Umsetzung und weitere Entwicklung derer. Sie löst damit Thimo Schwenzfeier ab, der nach mehr als acht Jahren bei der Messe Frankfurt das Unternehmen verlässt, um sich beruflich neu zu orientieren. In ihrer neuen Funktion berichtet Bär an Olaf Schmidt, Vice President Textiles & Textile Technologies der Messe Frankfurt GmbH.

Bettina Bär arbeitet seit 2012 in verschiedenen Positionen für die Messe Frankfurt im Bereich der Konsumgütermessen und war zuletzt Show Director der Tendence. Dabei hat Bär unter anderem den Ethical Style Guide mitverantwortet, wodurch nachhaltige Aussteller der Tendence nach Juryentscheid gesondert gekennzeichnet und kommuniziert wurden. Außerdem wird Bettina Bär in Personalunion auch die Leitung der neuen Modemesse Val:ue übernehmen. Diese geht zur Frankfurt Fashion Week im Januar 2022 erstmals an den Start und bildet künftig die Homebase des Segments „Quality und Mainstream Fashion“.