From the Sector

ANDRITZ will be presenting its innovative nonwovens production solutions at CINTE 2022 in Shanghai, China (September 6–8). ANDRITZ will show its broad product portfolio covering state-of-the-art nonwovens and textile production technologies such as air-through bonding, airlay, needlepunch, spunlace, spunbond, wetlaid/WetlaceTM, converting, textile finishing, recycling, and natural fiber processing.

SUSTAINABILITY IS KEY
ANDRITZ supports nonwovens producers in the move to sustainability with the aim of reducing or eliminating plastic components while maintaining the high quality of the desired product properties. This applies to all types of sustainable wipes, such as flushable, biodegradable, bio-sourced, carded pulp or standard carded wipes. The latest development in this field is the ANDRITZ neXline wetlace CP line, which integrates the carded-pulp (CP) process. This is a fully engineered production line combining the benefits of drylaid and wetlaid technologies to produce a new generation of biodegradable wipes.

NEXLINE WETLAID AXCESS TARGETS SMALLER AND MEDIUM PRODUCTION VOLUMES
The neXline wetlaid aXcess targets smaller and medium production volumes and has been devised for new and existing lines. The compact line provides an entrance to the growing wetlaid market, with a variety of final applications and options.

ANDRITZ AXCESS DEVELOPED FOR MEDIUM CAPACITIES IN WUXI, CHINA
The aXcess range was specially developed at ANDRITZ (China) Ltd. Wuxi Branch to handle medium capacities. The facility in Wuxi has an experienced platform for production and service specially geared to serve the Asian nonwovens industry. It designs and manufactures cutting-edge lines to complement the ANDRITZ aXcess product range, which includes complete lines and individual machines for air-through bonding, needlepunch and spunlace processes. With the aXcess range, ANDRITZ has developed a hybrid line combining European and Chinese machines, which is the ideal combination to obtain the best added value from each component in the line and be very flexible to accommodate different business cases.

The service organization was set up to provide prompt delivery and excellent customer support, even during the COVID-19 pandemic. A team of technicians and process experts can be deployed quickly to customer sites requiring full-range assistance. The ANDRITZ facilities include a roll service center with state of-the-art grinding equipment and a test stand for various types of rolls.

In addition, our aXcess range manufactured in Europe also offers technologies for spunlaid and wetlaid processes. Increasing production speeds and widths, compact and reliable design, and affordable investment costs are what customers look for in a competitive market environment. To meet these requirements ideally, we recently enhanced our nonwoven calender and dryer ranges.

ROICA™, Asahi Kasei's premium stretch fiber manufacturer, strengthens its presence in the high fashion segment thanks to its established network of partners, who will present their latest innovations - activated by ROICA™ - at the upcoming edition of Milano Unica, taking place at Rho Fiera Milano from 12th to 14th July 2022.

Going more in depth in the offers of ROICA™ partners for this season of Milano Unica, they are:

• Cifra, which presents its innovative garments for men and women, combining fashion and function. Base layers, tops, leggings and jumpsuits are made with natural yarns, or recycled pre- and post-consumer yarns in combination with ROICA™ EF, the sustainable recycled stretch yarn able to complete proposals that offer design, performance and responsibility. The design of the garments, created in Cifra's design office, offers a perfect shape with body mapping technology that creates dedicated ventilation zones, for a feeling of comfort and freshness as well as an innovative aesthetic impact.
• Iluna Group, whose journey into the new dimension of responsibility continues with developments in GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified recycled yarns aimed at unprecedented effects in looks, performance and hands. Brand new for this edition of Première Vision is the inclusion of GOTS-certified organic cotton in GRS-certified galloons and allover lace containing ROICA™ EF, so as to meet market demands for natural comfort in the underwear sphere.
• Maglificio Ripa, which presents the Splash collection for summer 2024, developed in two major themes, united by the same focus on sustainability that results in the use of recycled pre- and post-consumer polyamide and polyester yarns including ROICA™ EF for the sustainable recycled stretch fiber. The first theme encompasses printed, 3D jacquard fabrics, ennobled by innovative processes that move the bottoms for an organic and sometimes irreverent final look. The second theme embodies a cocoon spirit, enveloping like a caress, soft as a hug.
• Penn Textile Solutions/Penn Italia, whose highlights of the new collection are on one side fabrics developed with the use of Neride eco yarns by Nurel with ROICA™ V550, characterized by restraining lace effect, soft touch and breathable, in combination with tulle as a sustainable basic, and on the other side charmeuses with soft hand, raw cut in combination with a band fabric from the dreamshape family with reinforced gripping edge, made again in Neride eco yarns by Nurel with ROICA™ V550
• Piave Maitex, whose orientation is, as always, to present new products with the right  balance between technological innovation and aesthetic look, between fashion and comfort, proposals that include sustainable fabrics made in recycled polyester,  polyamide and the sustainable recycled stretch fiber ROICA™ EF, three-dimensional and optical, perforated, plush effects, made by prioritizing technical functionalities such as waterproofness, breathability, transfer and moisture management, opacity and anti-UV as well as anti-abrasion.
• Sitip, which is one of the premium partners, together with ROICA™, for the creation of the first Scott Racing Team’s responsible biking uniform. This year, the evolution of research and development has also led to the creation of new responsible shorts, made with NATIVE-THUNDERBIKE POWER fabric by Sitip in recycled polyamide and ROICA™ EF yarn by Asahi Kasei. A fabric designed for high-performance sports, particularly suitable for making cycling pants for its maximum coverage and UV protection - thanks to ECLIPSE Sun Protection technology - breathability, comfort and fit. Also the shirt has been produced with Sitip recycled fabrics - NATIVE-BICIMANIA and NATIVE-PIRATA - made with Asahi Kasei's ROICA™ EF sustainable, stretch and certified recycled yarns.

ROICA™ strengthens its presence in the apparel segment thanks to its established network of partners, who will present their latest innovations at the upcoming Première Vision.

ROICA™ partners are the “artists” and “heartists” of premium stretch in fabrics: because they have at heart all the values for which ROICA™ stands for. These partners presenting at Première Vision are:

• Iluna Group, whose journey into the new dimension of responsibility continues with developments in GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified recycled yarns aimed at unprecedented effects in looks, performance and hands. Brand new for this edition of Première Vision is the inclusion of GOTS-certified organic cotton in GRS-certified galloons and allover lace containing ROICA™ EF, so as to meet market demands for natural comfort in the underwear sphere.
• Innova Fabrics, which recently enhanced its smart offering by launching the RF (Residual Free) line, with the goal of reducing the impact of microplastics derived from the fashion industry. This is made possible by mixing two responsible ingredients, SENSIL® BioCare by Nilit and ROICA™ V550 by Asahi Kasei, which give birth to both sporty and casual fabrics.
• Inplet, which enriched its production of smart elastic and rigid knitted fabrics with three new products: a powernet fabric in 77% polyamide RECO and 23% ROICA™ EF with good recovery; a net fabric in 55% polyamide RECO and 45% ROICA™ EF characterized by a soft hand and good elasticity; and a 79% polyamide and 21% ROICA™ V550 good power, good recovery and a soft touch.
• Penn Textile Solutions/Penn Italia, whose highlights of the new collection are on one side fabrics developed with the use of Neride eco yarns by Nurel with ROICA™ V550, characterized by restraining lace effect, soft touch and breathable, in combination with tulle as a sustainable basic, and on the other side charmeuses with soft hand, raw cut in combination with a band fabric from the dreamshape family with reinforced gripping edge, made again in Neride eco yarns by Nurel with ROICA™ V550
• Tessitura Colombo Antonio, which in its new A/W 23-24 collection expands its proposal of regenerated lace from the ECO-LACE line: new designs inspired by fashion trends using ROICA™ EF. Also, in its BIODEGRADABLE line it uses ROICA™ V550 for the realization of new designs. The new MICROMODAL line uses ROICA™ V550; the effect of this lace range is softness, elegance and relief effect.

Freudenberg Performance Materials (Freudenberg) is endorsing further sustainable products with its ECO-CHECK label introduced last year. These products comply with various environmental criteria. With immediate effect, five more solutions bear the label making the company’s commitment to sustainability visible.

Leather goods
The newly-endorsed ECO-CHECK products include one Evolon® microfilament textile application. This is a reinforcement material for leather goods that is manufactured with no solvent and no binder. It contains up to 80 percent recycled PET and is suitable for a broad range of applications. The material is produced at Freudenberg’s facility in Colmar, France, where the manufacturing process is highly sustainable: it is certified to STeP by OEKO-TEX® and fully complies with the DETOX TO ZERO by OEKO-TEX® criteria.

Healthcare applications
In the field of healthcare, the bio-based M 1714 wound pad with superior absorption for more challenging wounds has now been endorsed with the ECO-CHECK label. The dressing consists of a mix of bio-based fibers derived from natural sources and exhibits a smooth wound contact layer. The product has been evaluated for industrial compostability and conforms to ISO 13432.

Architectural applications
The sustainable TF 400 Eco F mesh fabric for textile architecture from Mehler Texnologies® now also bears the ECO-CHECK label. Its yarn is made of 100% recycled PET bottles and its characteristics are very similar to those of conventional mesh fabrics. In 2021, it was awarded first place by the Architectural Membrane Association (AMA) in the “product” category in recognition of its properties.

Shoes
In the shoe industry, the binder-free strobel insoles have been endorsed as particularly sustainable. They contain a high percentage of recycled green bottle flakes. Moreover, the insoles themselves are fully recyclable.

Filtration applications
The two layered, needle-punched nonwoven filter medium that has just been endorsed with the ECO-CHECK label has impressive sustainability characteristics. Made entirely of polyester, more than half the fibers consist of recycled material.

Trützschler Man-Made Fibers introduces OPTIMA for IDY and expands the range of the OPTIMA extrusion systems by the industrial yarn (IDY) sector. In addition to OPTIMA for carpet yarns (MO40-C, MO40-E and TO40), variants for manufacturing (semi-)industrial multifilament yarns are now joining the line.

Since 2012, Trützschler has been developing and building high-performance extrusion lines for carpet yarns (BCF - Bulk Continuous Filament) and industrial/technical yarns made of polyester, polyamide and polypropylene. The market launch of the OPTIMA concept for BCF took place in 2019 and has established itself in the markets since then. OPTIMA was designed as a modular platform and now also includes solutions in the IDY (InDustrial Yarn) sector.

OPTIMA systems for industrial yarn (TEC-O40 and TEC-O80) impress with flexibility application and end product diversity. Both concepts offer a wide range of design options and can be tailored precisely to meet end product and the throughput requirements.

OPTIMA enables the production of high-tenacity yarns for shoelaces, ropes and nets as well as low-shrinkage qualities for tire cords, truck tarpaulins and airbags. As the lines are modular, they can be quickly adapted to new market developments and end products.

The Global Fashion Summit was hosted by Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) in Copenhagen on 7-8 June. The event was centred around the theme ‘Alliances for a New Era’ and convened over 900 leaders from brands, retailers, NGOs, policy, manufacturers, and innovators to drive urgent action.

Attendees heard from 112 speakers including HRH The Crown Princess of Denmark; Marie-Claire Daveu, Chief Sustainability & institutional Affairs Officer, Kering; Leo Rongone, CEO, Bottega Veneta; Thierry Andretta, CEO, Mulberry; Lily Cole, Author & Podcaster on climate solutions and Advisor for UNECE; Nicolaj Reffstrup, Founder, GANNI; Maximillian Bittner, CEO, Vestiaire Collective; Paul Polmon, Co-Author, Net Positive; Bobby Kolade, Fashion Designer; Halide Alagöz, Chief Product Officer, Ralph Lauren Corporation; Aditi Mayer, Sustainable fashion blogger and labor rights activist; Lindita Xhaferi Salihu, Fashion Charter Lead, UNFCCC; and more.

Multiple companies, such as GFA, Ralph Lauren, Apparel Impact Institute, Fashion Revolution, GANNI, TrusTrace and Mulberry, chose to announce their latest sustainability measures at the landmark event.

Innovation Forum connected fashion companies with sustainable solution providers
This year’s Summit also presented an Innovation Forum, enabling small and large companies to meet with 24 sustainable solution providers – equipping them with the tools to turn words into meaningful actions. More than 300 facilitated business meetings between fashion companies and sustainable solution providers took place during the two days of the Summit.

SHIMA SEIKI MFG. will participate in the ITM 2022 International Textile Machinery Exhibition in Istanbul, Turkey.

SHIMA SEIKI will exhibit a wide range of its products, including proposals in seam-free WHOLEGARMENT® knitting technology that offers an alternative to labor-intensive manufacturing in Turkey and other international markets. Featured is the flagship MACH2XS WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine with original SlideNeedle™ on four needle beds and spring-loaded moveable sinkers with expanded patterning capability, the MACH2VS V-bed machine for producing WHOLEGARMENT® items using every other needle, as well as the compact SWG091N2 for producing smaller WHOLEGARMENT® items and accessories. A brand new proposal in V-bed WHOLEGARMENT® knitting will also be introduced in the form of the N.SVR183 machine. N.SVR123SP features a special loop presser bed that can produce hybrid inlay fabrics with both knit and weave characteristics. N.SVR123SP at ITM will feature the special i-Plating option, capable of alternating yarn colors in any pattern, producing jacquard-like designs using plain jersey stitch for even greater diversity in knit design. Meanwhile N.SSR112 offers industry-leading technology in an economical yet reliable package made in Japan. Also on display is the SFG20 glove knitting machine.

Demonstrations will be performed on SHIMA SEIKI’s SDS®-ONE APEX4 design system. At the core of the company’s “Total Fashion System” concept, SDS®-ONE APEX4 provides comprehensive support throughout the production supply chain, integrating production into one smooth and efficient workflow from yarn development, product planning and design, to production and even sales promotion. Especially effective is the way SDS®-ONE APEX4 improves on the design evaluation process with its ultra-realistic simulation capability, whereby virtual samples replace physical sampling, consequently reducing time, cost and material that otherwise go to waste. The same capability is present in APEXFiz™ subscription-based design software. Installed on personal computers, APEXFiz™ features the same functionality as SDS®-ONE APEX4, but with the added versatility to adapt to different work styles and business environments including teleworking and telecommuting. Digital prototyping using virtual samples on SDS®-ONE APEX4 and APEXFiz™ help to digitally transform the fashion supply chain for realizing sustainable manufacturing. APEXFiz™ will be shown along with SHIMA SEIKI’s yarnbank™ digital yarn web platform that further enhances the realism of virtual samples.

International textile producers meet again in Istanbul, Turkey, from June 14 – 18, 2022 on the occasion of the ITM + Hightex Exhibition. In Hall 9 (Hightex) the exhibitors will present the complete industry value chain from nonwovens raw materials, production machines and accessories to the endproduct. The related industries covered include hygiene, filtration, fabrics and apparel, medical, automotive, wipes, home furnishings and upholstery. DiloGroup offers tailor-made production systems from one supplier and will inform about its portfolio and the latest equipment developments from fibre opening to the finished felt.

DiloGroup will inform about complete lines as well as high speed needlelooms for spunbonds. A new, simplified elliptical needle beam drive makes Hyperpunch technology also attractive for standard application. Hyperpunch HαV allows a more uniform stitch distribution in the preneedling process especially in combination with the new needle pattern 6000X. In a complete needling line this felt homogenization process can be improved further. The new needle pattern 8000X is a milestone in the needle pattern development process and results in endproduct surfaces with low markings over a wide range of advances/stroke.

Another strong pillar of the sales program over decades has been fibre preparation and high speed webforming equipment for other nonwoven technologies. The further development of the high-speed layering principle “Hyperlayer” made progress for better CD strength through a combination of inline cards and crossline card with crosslapper. Particularly, carding machines in a working width above 3.5 m up to 5.1 m have been supplied by DiloSpinnbau as complete high speed carding systems, comprising two or even three cards in a line to directly feed the hydroentangling units of various suppliers. Together with DiloTemafa not only have high throughput rates been achieved in the fibre preparation section of the line but also dedusting filtering and air-conditioning systems have been successfully engineered and integrated.

Together with Sicam, Dilo has combined know-how for hydroentangling technology and therefore can provide complete lines as general contractor including equipment for cutting, winding and packaging.

Another interesting machine is the 3D-Lofter, first presented during ITMA 2019 in Barcelona, which offers a wider range of nonwovens applications by exploring the third dimension. A series of single web forming units which work according to the aerodynamic web forming principle deliver defined fibre masses in varied patterns on a base needlefelt. A stress oriented production of technical formed parts resulting in fibre savings or patterned DI-LOUR or DI-LOOP felts with or without repeat are two examples for this technology which explores new application areas for needlefelts.
The 3D-Lofter technology may also be used “inverted” as “IsoFeed” for filling up bad spots in web mats and thus achieves a better homogeneity of spunlace or airlay products.

The DiloLine 4.0 concept offer I4.0 modules which not only support the user but also facilitate quality control and maintenance by a maximum data transparency in production and control of operation. The Dilo solutions “Smart Start” for a fully automatic start of the production line or “DI-LOWATT” for energy savings are accompanied by Siemens solutions which can be selected via App or Data Cloud “MindSphere”.

The global composites community reunited at JEC WORLD 2022 on May 3rd to 5th for three days of innovation, networking and knowledge sharing. The industry was excited to reconnect in Paris after three years and the show exceeded all expectations in terms of product launches, content, business activity and attendance. Overall, the event welcomed 32,000+ professional visits, in Paris and online, from more than 115 countries and featured 1,201 exhibitors and 26 pavilions, whilst the JEC World Connect platform offered an additional way to explore the show this year.

While fewer Asian participants were able to join the show this year due to travel complexities, the attendance of a high level of decision makers from 117 countries and all key players along the value chain resulted in a dynamic environment for networking and business. As a consequence, companies were keen to confirm their presence next year; by the time the show closed its doors, 50% of JEC World 2023 exhibition space had already been booked.  Exhibitors and attendees have expressed very positive feedback about the quality of the exhibition and such a successful come-back of JEC World as the pinnacle event of the industry.

Innovations at JEC World
With more than 500 product launches during this year’s show, JEC World remains a popular venue to introduce new products to the global market.

The JEC Composites Innovation Awards celebrated 10 collaborative projects, reflecting the dynamism and the resilience of our industry, and two Innovation Planets displayed 80 impressive applications.

Celebrating its five-year anniversary, the JEC Composites Startup Booster competition is now established to discover startups in the advanced composites sector.

JEC World contributing to a more sustainable world
JEC World’s conference program shone a light on this year’s theme and most impactful topic: Composites for a Sustainable World. Sustainability continues to rise as a key growth driver for the composites industry, enabling diverse application sectors to achieve ambitious sustainability goals, from energy and transportation, to building and infrastructure, and so many more. JEC World highlighted how the growing application of composites will open up exciting new horizons for human activities, improving people’s lives and leading to a better, more sustainable world.

International community
Three Country on Stage presentations showcased the structure and strengths of the composites industries of South Korea, the Netherlands and the United States. The program featured keynote presentations and business cases which demonstrate the countries’ composites expertise  in hydrogen, in sustainable excellence, and innovation in building and mobility, respectively.

Ministers, ambassadors and official representatives from 16 countries also visited the show as part of dedicated official delegation tours from the United States, Turkey, Hungary, Taiwan, Portugal, Croatia, the Netherlands, the United Kingdom, North Macedonia, Germany, Slovakia, Luxembourg, Belgium, Sweden and Spain.

Thus, JEC World was the opportunity for government representatives to meet the leading composites actors of their respective regions or markets and show their support. Official inaugurations also took place on the Dutch, American and British pavilions.

BB Engineering has been shortlisted for the Plastics Recycling Awards Europe 2022 for the category Recycling Machinery Innovation with its PET recycling line VacuFil® Visco+ for fiber-to-fiber inline recycling.

The process presented as part of the award is the combined VacuFil® Visco+ with VarioFil®. This machinery enables the textile industry to perform closed-loop inline recycling of post-consumer polyester (PET) textile waste. The given recycling technology is a thermo-mechanical recycling process optimized for the textile industry. Key component here is the liquid state polycondensation reactor, known as Visco+, to adjust the intrinsic viscosity. Compared to existing fiber recycling processes, which address rather less demanding textile applications and don’t include subsequent spinning, BBE’s solution is a whole-in-one process that enables the textile industry to perform closed-loop inline recycling of post-consumer PET fiber waste even into high-tech textile yarns with low dpf-values.

The Plastics Recycling Awards Europe 2022 winners will be announced on 23 June, during the second day of the Plastics Recycling Show Europe taking place at the RAI Amsterdam.