From the Sector

The ecological and social conditions in the production of textiles are coming to the fore and into the consciousness of industry and end customers. With the new LAB102 brand, the "Jeans & Garment" team of the CHT Group to offer its global denim customers sustainable chemical solutions and technologies in the future.

Where does the name "LAB102 - Blue veins of CHT" come from?
LAB was chosen not only because the English word for laboratory fits perfectly with a chemical company, but also because it stands for innovation, development, and discovery. The digits 102 in the name refer to the house number of CHT's corporate headquarters in Tübingen.
The slogan "Blue veins of CHT" maintains the connection to the name CHT which is well-known in the industry. Moreover, the denim or jeans industry is traditionally and historically indigo - thus blue.

Focus on sustainability
LAB102 focuses not only on chemistry, but also on technology. Fogging, laser, and ozone technologies are innovations that currently enable new approaches in jeans and garment treatment and are at a high ecological level. Their use can lead to savings in water and energy. The use of chemicals can also be reduced if processes are optimized and adapted to the new requirements. To this end, the CHT Group's "Jeans & Garment" team works with the leading machine manufacturers on new developments.

Viscose speciality fibres manufacturer Kelheim Fibres partners with TextileGenesisTM, a traceability platform that creates radical transparency from fibre-to-retail and ensures authenticity d provenance of sustainable textiles against generics.

“Our wood-based fibres are an environmentally friendly basis for sustainable textiles - it's just that consumers often don't know what's behind their garments. But they need to know it’s in their hands to minimise the ecological footprint of the textile industry. Transparency and traceability are the foundation that enables consumers to make informed decisions.”, says Dr. Marina Crnoja-Cosic, Director New Business Development at Kelheim Fibres.

TextileGenesisTM uses blockchain technology to track and verify the use of sustainable fibres all the way from fibre to garment. A digital fibercoin ensures transparency and reliability throughout the entire production line and beyond.

Amit Gautam, Founder & CEO at TexileGenesisTM:"Fashion and textile value chain is undergoing major transformation driven by sustainable materials, shifting consumer demand for sustainable products, and increasingly stringent regulations on transparency. Great to see Kelheim moving the industry forward by actively participating in the traceability journey."

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announces new dates for the 22nd edition of IDEA® – The World’s Preeminent Event for Nonwovens & Engineered Fabrics. Originally scheduled to take place April 23-25, 2024, IDEA® now will be held April 29-May 1, 2025, at the Miami Beach Convention Center in Miami Beach, FL.

In 2022, IDEA® attracted 5,000 participants from across the global supply chain to engage with nonwovens & engineered materials senior-level leaders at the Miami Beach Convention Center. IDEA® 2022 was co-located with the second FiltXPO™, an exhibition and conference dedicated exclusively to filtration and separation.

JEC Forum DACH‘s primary goal is to promote the DACH region’s dynamic composites ecosystem. Besides an extensive program of business meetings and conferences, innovation will have a special place in Augsburg from November 29 to 30, 2022 as attendees will have the opportunity to witness the JEC Composites Startup Booster and the AVK Awards. Winners of both competitions will be announced during a dedicated ceremony on November 29th.

The five finalists are:

BioWerkz: Closing the Loops
At BioWerkz a new bio-based, resource-efficient, and CO₂-negative material called “NEWood” is developed,  using only wood waste and agricultural waste bound using fungal mycelium; the root network of mushrooms as a natural binder without the need for any synthetic binders.

Bufo Technology – HARDCORK: High-Performance Biobased Composite – Superior by nature
Bufo Technology has developed the high-performance composite material HARDCORK® made from cork, fibers and a thermosetting matrix. HARDCORK® can be manufactured as a core material, sandwich panel or complex molded part.

Cavicore: Water soluble salt cores for the production of hollow carbon fiber parts
CAVICORE produces ready-to-use water soluble cores for the realization of hollow composite parts. Their “lost cores” have the advantage of being temperature-resistant, stable as well as eco-friendly and recyclable, as they consist of pure salts without binders.

Composite Recycling: Closing the loop on Composite Materials
Composite Recycling has developed a highly energy efficient and sustainable process to separate the resin from the fibres. With the Ecole Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne, the team has designed a post-treatment to clean the fibres and make them reusable in new composites, closing the loop.

Microwave Solutions GmbH: Imagineering a sustainable future
Agile and modular microwave plasma and selective depolymerization technology for molecular recycling, fiber recovery and nanomaterial creation.

• The adidas x SOUL CAP partnership aims to promote greater diversity and inclusivity in the world of swimming, by helping to break down social barriers in the sport.
• The debut swim cap has been designed for people with long or voluminous hair in a range of sizes, for adults and children, in an exclusive linen green colorway.

adidas announces its first swim cap made in partnership with London-based start-up SOUL CAP , which will be available from 26th September. This collaboration – which follows the launch of adidas’ full-cover and inclusive sizing swimwear ranges last summer – is part of the brand’s ongoing commitment to make water sports more accessible.

The idea for SOUL CAP was born in 2017 when founders Michael Chapman and Toks Ahmed took up adult swimming lessons, after not having learned how to swim as children. They noticed a problem during their classes – every swimmer wore the same size swim cap, no matter what hairstyle they had, which often resulted in people struggling with ill-fitting caps. This observation led to them creating SOUL CAP, a company that makes swim caps designed for people with long or voluminous hair.

The adidas x SOUL CAP swim cap is made from 100 per cent silicone, which creates less snag on the hair ensuring a more comfortable fit. Built with extra space, it provides a snug fit and tight seal to keep long and voluminous hair dry and healthy through every type of swim. The collection consists of an adult cap in sizes Regular-XXL and a children’s cap in sizes Regular-L, in an exclusive linen green colorway.

On 13-14 October, EURATEX in partnership with ATP is organising the 10th European Textile & Apparel Convention in Porto, Portugal; the convention marks also the 24th Textile Industry Forum for Portugal.

The Porto Convention – titled Sustainability meets Competitiveness: How to Square the Circle? – will look at how companies can anticipate the new European regulatory framework, embrace innovation, and develop a business model where sustainability becomes a source of competitiveness and growth. In the current economic, social and political environment, Europe is facing many challenges: increased energy prices, unforeseen inflation and climate change, which add to the day-to-day challenges of running a business. Embracing the European Union’s commitment to a green and digital transformation, the textile industry needs to also move towards a new circular economy where recycling is at the core of the design process supported by digitalisation, innovation and new skills, and creativity. The conference will address explore solutions to turn quality and sustainability into a source of competitiveness.

The Porto Convention will see representatives of national and European institutions, experts from the industry and like-minded entrepreneurs come together to discuss ideas, share experiences and find solutions to face common challenges.

• DiaperRecycle Wins RISE® Innovation Award for Technology that Transforms Used Diapers into Cat Litter

Product development and innovators in nonwovens & engineered materials gained expert insights on material science innovation and sustainability at the 12^th edition of RISE® — Research, Innovation & Science for Engineered Fabrics conference, organized by INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, and The Nonwovens Institute, North Carolina State University, Sept. 27-28 at North Carolina State University in Raleigh, NC.

More than 20 industry, academic, and government experts from across the globe presented technical developments in sessions focused on circularity and sustainable inputs from such sources as Polylactic Acid Polymers (PLA), natural fibers, biofibers, and waste products.

Highlights included presentations on Achieving Supply Chain Circularity, by Kat Knauer, Ph.D., Program Manager – V Research, National Renewable Energy Laboratory, NREL; The Global Plastic Crisis: Winners/Losers in the Marketplace, by Bryan Haynes, Ph.D., Senior Technical Director, Global Nonwovens, Kimberly-Clark Corporation; Sustainable Fibers – Development and the Future by Jason Locklin, Ph.D. Director, University of Georgia – New Materials Institute; PLA & PLA Blends: Practical Aspects of Extrusion by Behnam Pourdeyhimi, Ph.D., William A. Klopman Distinguished Professor, and Executive Director, The Nonwovens Institute, North Carolina State University; and Mitigation of Quat Incompatibility with Cotton and other Cellulosic-based Substrates, by Doug Hinchliffe, Ph.D., Research Molecular Biologist, USDA-ARS.

RISE® Innovation Award Winner
DiaperRecycle was awarded the RISE® Innovation Award for its innovative technology to recycle used diapers into absorbent and flushable cat litter. The annual award recognizes innovation in areas within and on the periphery of the nonwovens industry that use advanced science and engineering principles to develop unique or intricate solutions to problems and advance  nonwovens usage.

By diverting used diapers from households and institutions, and separating the plastic and fiber, DiaperRecycle strives to decrease the climate-changing emissions of diapers from landfills.  “I am thrilled and grateful to win this award — as it proves we are on the right track,” said Cynthia Wallis Barnicoat, CEO of DiaperRecycle.

Other award finalists included Binder BioHook® by Gottlieb Binder GmbH & Co. KG and Sero® hemp fibers from Bast Fibre Technologies, Inc. (BFT).

The 13^th edition of RISE® — Research, Innovation & Science for Engineered Fabrics conference will be held Sept. 12-13, 2023 at North Carolina State University in Raleigh, NC.

• More ambition and joint European efforts needed

On Friday 30 September, the EU Energy ministers approved a Council Regulation proposal to address high energy prices. The Regulation focusses on the electricity prices and electricity demand reduction, on a solidarity levy from the fossil fuel sector and a retail levy for SMEs. While these initiatives are driven by goodwill, they miss the point of bringing gas prices down – the one measure that would bring the biggest impact on European industry.

EURATEX – as the voice of the European apparel and textiles manufacturers – regrets this lack of ambition: the Regulation does not foresee any meaningful action to directly support the European industry. This can accelerate the de-industrialisation of Europe and loss of industrial capacity to secure the European standard of living and implementing the Green Deal.

“We call on the EU and Member States to pursue our common European interests. The hesitation to adopt a European price cap on natural gas, accompanied by massive national spending programs to subsidise domestic gas consumption, is a dereliction of duty”, said Director General Dirk Vantyghem.

Triggering competition among Member States rather than promoting cooperation in bringing gas prices down for all European companies will also prove ineffective: indeed, the industrial structure in the European Union is fully integrated. Once a segment of the value chain perishes because of the crisis in one country, all companies based in the EU will suffer its negative effect, driving prices up in the supply chain and adding further strain to our operations. The European industry will be saved as a unified industry, or it will not be saved at all. Fragmenting the internal market will not protect any Member State’s domestic manufacturing.

In addition to a EU-wide price cap on gas, EURATEX calls on the European Commission to swiftly amend the Temporary Crisis Framework, making sure the criteria and thresholds applied do not exclude vulnerable companies from possible support (e.g. in textile finishing and services). Euratex also encourages the European Commission to revise the ETS Indirect Carbon Leakage mechanism and include the man-made fibres, non-wovens, spinning and weaving sectors.

It is high time now for the European Union, said the association – in particular for Member States and the Commission – to step up their ambition and adopt a European vision: a chaotic and fragmented approach will not mitigate the crisis but accelerate it.

BOGNER and James Bond – a perfect symbiosis of action, entertainment and athluxury lifestyle. The partnership started over 50 years ago when Willy Bogner Junior filmed the ski scenes for On Her Majesty's Secret Service (1969). Building on the success of the collaboration, Willy went on to work on three more James Bond productions. In 2022, both partners celebrate an anniversary: 90 years of BOGNER and 60 years of the James Bond film franchise. To mark the long-standing partnership as well as the two anniversaries, a limited capsule collection is released, consisting of two complete ski outfits for men and women, ski hardware and accessories.

Carbios announced the appointment of Pascal Bricout as Chief Strategy and Financial Officer and a member of the Company’s Executive Committee.

Mr. Bricout will oversee the management and organization of Carbios’ Finance division. He will also steer the Group’s Strategy, investor relations and the launch of the company’s Corporate Social Responsibility policy. He joins the company with over 30 years’ experience in finance, strategy and international mergers and acquisitions.
 
Prior to joining Carbios, Mr. Bricout served as Chief Financial Officer for Michelin in Asia, which is a major area of growth and development for the company. Over the past 10 years, he has focused primarily on major strategic mergers and acquisitions.

Mr. Bricout holds a Master Degree in Finance from Université Paris-Dauphine. He began his career at PwC, as a manager in the International Transactions Services teams in Paris and London.

Mr. Bricout, Carbios’ Chief Strategy & Financial Officer noted: “I am thrilled to be joining Carbios and proud to take part in this concrete, meaningful advance toward circular economy. Having developed unparalleled breakthrough technologies in plastic and textile biodegradation and biorecycling, Carbios now needs to execute a successful industrial and commercial phase. This is crucial for companies using PET to achieve, from 2025, their sustainable development goals. Within this dynamic context, Carbios and its subsidiary, Carbiolice, are poised to become global leaders in the development and industrialization of innovative bioprocesses to revolutionize the life cycles of plastics and textiles.”