From the Sector

Sustainable fashion and sportswear must be high on the political agenda:
Three University of Manchester academics who specialise in fashion and textiles have criticised the Government for failing to take action to boost sustainability in the UK fashion and sportswear industries.

In an article published by the University’s policy engagement unit Policy@Manchester to coincide with the 20th annual Recycle Week, Lindsay Pressdee, Dr Amy Benstead and Dr Jo Conlon highlight that, of the one million tonnes of textiles disposed of every year in this country, 300,000 tonnes end up in landfill or incineration with figures suggesting 10 per cent of global CO2 emissions may come from the fashion industry.

And they warn that the damage inflicted by discarded sportswear is often overlooked, “despite an over-reliance on polyester garments, which are harmful to the environment as the fabric releases microfibres and takes hundreds of years to fully biodegrade.”

Pressdee, Benstead and Conlon stress the importance of establishing “sustainable behaviour throughout the supply chain” and praise the European Commission for proposing an “extended producer responsibility (EPR)” for textiles in the EU which “aims to create appropriate incentives to encourage producers to design products that have a reduced environmental impact at the end of their life.”

This contrasts with the UK where, they argue, “tackling sustainability in the fashion industry has lost its place on the political agenda.”

"We are calling on the Government to reintroduce textiles as part of the school curriculum to engage young people in sustainable materials and equip them with the basic skills required to repair clothes.”
Lindsay Pressdee, Dr Amy Benstead and Dr Jo Conlon

The University of Manchester academics contend that there has been “disappointing lack of progress from the UK Government” following the House of Commons Environmental Audit Committee’s Fixing Fashion report in 2019.

They continue: “This report included a call for the use of EPR as well as other important recommendations such as a ban on incinerating or landfilling unsold stock that can be reused or recycled and a tax system that shifts the balance of incentives in favour of reuse, repair and recycling to support responsible companies. We urge the Government to think again and drive forward the Committee’s recommendations in order to put sustainable fashion back on the political agenda.”

Pressdee, Benstead and Conlon also criticise Ministers for abolishing the standalone GCSE in textiles which provided many young people with the ability to mend clothing such as football kits instead of throwing them away.

They write: “We are therefore calling on the Government to reintroduce textiles as part of the school curriculum to engage young people in sustainable materials and equip them with the basic skills required to repair clothes.”

The University of Manchester has launched a new project dedicated to tackling the impact of textile waste in the football industry through the provision of workshops tasked with transforming surplus football shirts into unique reusable tote bags, whilst educating local communities on the environmental impacts of textile waste and how to extend the life of garments. The initiative aims to provide a fun, responsible way to keep kits in circulation while shining a light on the problem.

With a ribbon cutting ceremony on October 24, 2023 CHT USA celebrated the $ 25 million expansion at its US headquarters in Cassopolis, Michigan. More than 100 attendees came to the celebrations, among others officials from local, county and state governments, neighbors, and area business leaders, CHT employees, CTO Dr. Bernhard Hettich as representative of CHT’s Global management team, and members of the press.

In his speech, Dr. Bernhard Hettich, CTO of CHT Group, thanked the local authorities for their business-friendly policies and stated that a development towards sustainability in many areas would not be possible without CHT's silicone products: "With CHT's largest single investment outside Europe, CHT is taking a big step and doubling its silicone production capacity. We intend to use this expansion not only to support our customers in the Americas, but also to leverage the capacity for our global growth. In line with the motto "CHT first", further steps in this direction will follow."

For the Cass County site, the approximately 45,000 square feet new facility with 5 reactors and distillation units resulted in an increase in the total area of the company's site to 120,000 square feet. This will then allow sufficient space for additional reactors and downstream processes. The CHT USA site expansion has created approximately 30 highly skilled jobs in the community.

CHT USA’s Regional Sales and Marketing Director NORAM, Matthew Loman hosted the Ribbon Cutting ceremony.

The innovative company RUDOLF has been honoured for its outstanding achievements in the field of sustainability and environmental protection and has won the coveted Responsible Care Federal Competition 2023 in the category SME.

The award was presented as part of a competition organised by the German Chemical Industry Association (VCI). Responsible Care is a voluntary initiative of the chemical industry. Its aim is continuous improvement in the areas of environmental protection, health and safety. Chemical companies and associations in more than 50 countries support the initiative. The award-winning project of the innovative company RUDOLF impressed the jury with its pioneering technology, which reduces CO2 emissions by up to 99.9 % compared to conventional cooling systems. „The project uses near-surface geothermal energy for industrial cooling - according to the motto „Efficiency First“ the most efficient way has been chosen!“ - Jury statement
 
TerraCool‘s winning system uses near-surface geothermal energy as the most natural form of cooling. It utilises the constant temperature of around 10°C at a depth of around 10 metres below ground. A specially developed heat exchanger system takes advantage of this natural cooling effect. In the future, it will be used to cool chemical production processes at RUDOLF. The main advantage of this technology is that it is CO₂ neutral. The technology is highly efficient and consumes only 0.1 % of the electricity used by conventional cooling systems.  By using natural resources, the system reduces CO₂ emissions by up to 99.9 % compared to conventional cooling systems, resulting in a very presentable carbon footprint. Another impressive aspect is its high energy efficiency. With just 1 kW of electrical energy, the system generates up to 600 kW of cooling capacity, thanks to the use of a highly energyefficient circulating pump system. Energy is, and will continue to be, a valuable „raw material“ for our industry and one that we need to manage carefully. The system is self-contained and has no contact with groundwater. No environmentally harmful refrigerants or antifreeze are required. With this technology, RUDOLF has made a pioneering contribution to the climate-neutral transformation of the economy, proving that innovative solutions can go hand in hand with environmental protection and sustainability. The Responsible Care award recognises the company‘s commitment to a greener future.

The Textile & Fashion Forum Helsinki 2023, organized by Finnish Textile & Fashion and EURATEX, highlights the discourse on sustainable practices within the textile and fashion industry. This two-day event, scheduled for 26-27 October at the Little Finlandia event center in Helsinki, will include a day of curated company visits.

Finland’s leading textile and fashion forum will showcase the industry's pioneering companies and their pursuit of a sustainable and resilient future. With insightful discussions, inspiring speakers, and thrilling business cases, the event drives transformation and sets new benchmarks for the textile and fashion sector.

The Textile & Fashion Forum Helsinki 2023 will focus on critical industry themes. The transformation of the textile and fashion industry relies on three key pillars: the creation of different circular business models matching growth with sustainability, a green and digital transition where information technology is necessary to deliver sustainability, and scaling the business, as how start-ups can make a leap and big companies can evolve their growth strategies. These three themes will be discussed in depth during the event.

The speaker lineup, drawn from Finland, Europe and beyond, demonstrates the expertise connecting on this platform. Noteworthy figures include Tiina Alahuhta-Kasko, President & CEO of Marimekko; Kai Mykkänen, Minister of Climate and the Environment of Finland; Marcus Hartmann, Head of Public Affairs & Sustainability at H&M; Liljana K. Forssten, Range Strategist at IKEA; and Virginijus Sinkevičius, European Commissioner (on video).

Ahead of the extra-ordinary Council on 6 October in Granada, EURATEX President, Alberto Paccanelli, and CIE President, Jose Vte Serna, call on the EU Presidency to develop a new competitiveness strategy, which can relaunch the European industry and ensure it will remain competitive in the decades to come. This means bringing together trade, energy, state aid and sustainability policies into a single, integrated, comprehensive approach, which can support a robust and modern European manufacturing industry.  
 
To consolidate a strong industrial structure in Europe, the Union should

1. secure the supply of clean energy at a competitive cost;
2. support innovation and foster the necessary talent pool and
3. be more assertive in achieving an international level-playing field on sustainability, based on the European model.  

During the past few years the implementation of incoherent and conflicting objectives under the trade, energy, industrial and sustainability policy has been observed. As a matter of fact, while the circular economy promised to be a recipe for a competitive industry of the future, the likelihood of pushing the EU industry out of the market and driving investment elsewhere than in Europe is very high. If this approach were to continue in the next years, it will result in a de-industrialised Europe, depending on imports from abroad. Such a Europe would be more exposed to geopolitical turmoil, with no agency to deliver its vision of peace, well-being and a healthy environment to its citizens.

It is fundamental for Europe to pursue a more coherent set of policies that put the competitiveness of its domestic industry at the core. In this context, all the industrial manufacturing sectors should be in the scope, including the textile industry, given its importance in providing essential products and applications to our society. A first impactful action that can be taken in this direction, would be to expand the scope of the Net-Zero Industry Act (NZIA) to include the textiles and clothing industry.
 
The history of European industry is fully woven in the birth and expansion of the European textiles industry since the XVIII century. Still today, the European textiles and clothing industry holds a pivotal position in the market, encompassing a diverse range of sectors and applications. In terms of employment, our industry creates 1,3 million direct jobs in Europe, encompassing a wide range of roles, from design and production to distribution and retail. European textiles have a wide range of applications, the most common one is of course clothing and fashion. The industry has a long history of producing high-quality apparel, with various regions specializing in specific niches.
 
Beyond clothing, there is a wide range of industrial sectors were textiles play an essential role, including  Automotive (used for upholstery, interior components, and even lightweight composite materials), Aircraft and Shipbuilding (where textiles are employed for their lightweight and high-strength properties, to enhance fuel efficiency, reduce emissions, and improve overall performance), Building and Construction (insulation, roofing, geotextiles, and architectural textiles), or Personal Protective Equipment, for medical personnel, firefighters, police and army officers. This includes masks, gowns, uniforms, helmets, and fire-resistant clothing, ensuring safety in hazardous environments.
 
Textiles are essential components of our society and our well-being. It is key for Europe to maintain its capacity to manufacture high-quality, sustainable and high-technology textiles.  With this in mind, the competitiveness policy of the future and the related funds to support it, should include the textile ecosystem in its scope.  

Founded in 2013, NOPINZ is a UK-based manufacturer of clothing for cyclists and triathletes. The company's first product was the ‘SpeedPocket’, a product that allows competitors to attach their race numbers more easily (and with ‘no pins’) while improving the all-important aerodynamics. Soon recognising the customer demand for premade attire with incorporated number pockets, the company embarked on a mission to manufacture these new product lines itself. Today, NOPINZ boasts a diverse portfolio, with 60% of its products made in-house, catering to a growing customer base across the UK and international markets. NOPINZ creates speed suits for some of the world’s top cycling teams, as well as competitive amateurs.

NOPINZ places a strong emphasis on sustainability and is committed to minimising its environmental impact. Using a microfactory approach gives better oversight and control of the manufacturing process, including sourcing materials sustainably and locally where possible, reducing transportation, and improving access to recycling. “Our ‘zero to landfill’ policy, means that we reduce our wastage where possible and either recycle or donate excess product to charity,” Blake adds. “We hope to become a B-Corp company in the future.”

“We tested out a few printers, before we ultimately settled on Mimaki,” Blake Pond, the founder of NOPINZ explained. Now the company’s line-up entirely consists of Mimaki’s textile dye sublimation solutions.
“During our search we prioritised the ability to produce fluorescence and accurately replicate colours. Customers often come to us with existing kit made by other manufacturers, which they want to match, so accurately replicating colour is extremely important. And even without existing kit, customers occasionally ask for specific pantone colours. When it comes to cycling kit, colour is often pivotal when considering where to buy from.”

As two flagship dye sublimation printers, both the TS300P-1800 and TS55-1800 are equipped to print on the various technical fabrics that are needed for cycling attire and faithfully reproduce colours to meet customer expectations.

The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) officially started the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) Alignment Assessment process for GOTS' version 7.0. This involvement illustrates GOTS' ongoing efforts to align with the international framework for responsible garment and footwear supply chain due diligence.

An Assessment for Greater Impact
The OECD Alignment Assessment is a three-stage process that includes a Standards Assessment, an Implementation Assessment as well as a Credibility Assessment. As GOTS enters the Standard Assessment phase, it effectively showcases its dedication to sustainable practices, in line with the OECD Due Diligence Guidance. This process, supported by the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development, began in July 2023 and is expected to complete in January 2024.

The Role of the Due Diligence Criteria
The GOTS Due Diligence Criteria provide a framework for companies to proactively address potential or existing risks to human rights and the environment. This initiative lies at the core of GOTS' role as a trendsetter, paving the way for responsible business practices that will shape the future. Ruslan Alyamkin, Responsible for Standard Development and Implementation (Social Responsibility) at GOTS, emphasised the transformative power of these criteria: "The Due Diligence Criteria are not just guidelines, they are a powerful tool for real change. They empower companies to make informed and ethical decisions, helping to shape a textile industry that respects human rights and cares for our planet".

Emerging Regulatory Requirements: Navigating Human Rights and Environmental Due Diligence Obligations
As global legislation increasingly emphasises respect for human rights in business operations, GOTS remains a support tool for companies navigating this evolving landscape. Legislation such as Germany's Supply Chain Act (LkSG), France's Vigilance Act, Norway's Transparency Act, the Dutch Child Labour Due Diligence Act, and the UK Modern Slavery Act underscores the crucial need for rigorous due diligence in assessing business impacts on human rights and the environment. Moreover, the European Commission adopted a proposal for a Directive on corporate sustainability due diligence (CSDDD), which signals the imminent consideration of mandatory human rights and environmental due diligence.

With the recent version of GOTS Version 7.0, textile companies gain access to a six-step due diligence process, enabling them to identify, assess, and mitigate adverse impacts throughout their supply chains. This positions GOTS as a tool in showcasing compliance with due diligence obligations outlined in the draft EU CSDDD as well as in national laws.

On the occasion of the 2023 UCI Cycling World Championships, the Union Cycliste Internationale chose Santini to make the bibs from recyclable materials. The UCI's partner brought together a pool of companies, all in the Bergamo area (Italy): RadiciGroup, Sitip, EFI Reggiani and Acerbis.

In 2022, the Union Cycliste Internationale released the UCI Climate Action Charter, which lays out an action plan to advance the environmental sustainability of the sport with a specific principle to reduce waste and accelerate the transition to a circular economy. This year, the UCI Cycling World Championships, which will be held from 3 to 13 August, are bringing together most of the cycling disciplines in a single location: Glasgow and across Scotland.

To mark the occasion, the UCI turned to its Official Partner, Santini, to make the bibs that the staff (judges, volunteers, commissaires etc.) and accredited photographers wear throughout the event. The bibs are "eco-designed", which means they are specifically created to have a second life after use. Once the event is over, the bibs could be collected and sent to RadiciGroup and transformed into new material, to be then processed by Acerbis to create X-Elite handguards for mountain bikes. This project is a concrete example of the circular economy at work, allowing 100% of the materials used to be recovered.

To optimise the production cycle of the bibs for the 2023 UCI Cycling World Championships, the products must be eco-friendly from the very first phase. The fabrics were therefore made from Italian nylon yarn produced by RadiciGroup. The choice of nylon – an infinitely recyclable thermoplastic material – is intertwined with UCI's sustainability goals for "limited-use" garments: RadiciGroup was able to channel its know-how and expertise in the field of chemistry to create "circular" bibs, working alongside the other partners. As the innovative yarn selected by RadiciGroup allows for easy and high-quality printing, the fabric is also customisable. The yarn is then provided to Sitip to create the "ARAS NG" warp-knitted fabric (95 g/100 m2): a recyclable single-fibre material made from 100% polyamide. The resulting fabric is the first nylon of its kind, designed to meet the transfer printing needs of the third project partner, EFI Reggiani, as well as the recyclability standards requested by RadiciGroup. The choice of fabric was born from extensive applied research, in which EFI Reggiani tested a wide range of fabrics to find the best colour results and the best resistance to rubbing and perspiration, which is vital for the bibs' intended use. In addition to using the new GOTS-certified EFI Reggiani IRIS Plus water-based inks, EFI Reggiani opted for a printing solution on transfer paper that does not consume water and requires a minimal amount of energy per square metre. Finally, the white fabric from Sitip and the transfer paper printed by EFI Reggiani arrived at Santini, who were responsible for transferring all the graphics for the 2023 UCI Cycling World Championships bibs from the paper onto the fabric. Santini also took care to assemble the garments using only thread and components made from nylon or chemically similar materials, allowing the bibs to enter the recycling process at the end of their lives without any further processing.                   

DOMO Chemicals, a global leader in polyamide-based engineered material solutions and services, has published its latest annual Sustainability Report, detailing progress on its sustainability journey, including notable reductions in greenhouse gas emissions. DOMO’s mission is to engineer polyamide solutions that contribute to a better, more sustainable world. In publishing its second annual Sustainability Report, DOMO enters a new phase in its decarbonization quest, with confidence in its long-term aspiration to set the standard for sustainability in the industry by 2030.

Notably, the Sustainability Report details DOMO’s achievements in 2022 toward realizing its 2030 sustainability goals. In terms of decarbonization and broader environmental achievements, against a 2019 baseline, the company:

• Reduced scope 1 and 2 greenhouse gas emissions by 27%, making significant progress toward its target of 40% reduction by 2030 and carbon neutrality by 2050
• Increased renewable electricity throughout operations to 12%
• Reduced waste by 24%
• Lowered water intake by 4.5%

In addition, as a provider of polyamide-based sustainable and circular solutions, DOMO:

• Achieved more than 11% of engineered materials sales based on sustainable feedstock, making excellent progress toward its 2030 target of 20%
• Allocated 25% of research and development resources to enhanced recycling

Moreover, fostering talent and ensuring the well-being of its workforce as a responsible employer is essential for sustainable growth, and 2022 highlights include:

• Increased share of women in senior positions from 22% in 2021 to 30% in 2022
• Providing a safe and inclusive working environment that encourages personal and professional development as well as a global safety culture

Dr. Laurie-Ann Agama, Acting Assistant U.S. Trade Representative (USTR) for Textiles, wrapped up a three-day visit of state-of-the art U.S. textile manufacturing facilities in North and South Carolina, highlighting the importance of trade policies that bolster the competitiveness of the vibrant domestic supply chain that contributes significantly to the U.S. economy and workforce.

Dr. Agama, who advises the nation’s top trade chief on textile and apparel trade policy matters and conducts and oversees negotiations affecting textiles and apparel products, was joined by USTR textile trade officials in touring seven textile manufacturers including: Glen Raven, Barnet, Standard Textile, Parkdale Mills, Beverly Knits, Gildan, and Unifi.

Her three-day tour culminated in an industry roundtable discussion with key textile executives hosted by Unifi, in Greensboro, N.C.

U.S. textile executives spanning the fiber, yarn, fabric, and finished product textile and apparel industries participated in the roundtable and outlined critical policies, such as: the importance of maintaining the yarn forward rule of origin in the Dominican Republic-Central America Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA-DR) and other trade agreements; advancing the Miscellaneous Tariff Bill (MTB) and its importance to domestic manufacturers; closing the de minimis loophole in U.S. trade law; addressing larger systemic trade issues, particularly the use of forced labor, with China; and upholding buy American and Berry Amendment government procurement policies.

“We deeply appreciate Assistant USTR Agama’s visit to the heart of the U.S. textile industry in North and South Carolina this week to meet with U.S. textile executives and experience first-hand the breadth of the industry’s innovation, advanced sustainability practices, capital investments and critical contributions to local economies and the U.S. economy as a whole,” said Kim Glas, president and CEO of NCTO. “The three-day visit by Dr. Agama and the USTR textile team included facility tours of several NCTO member companies, all of which have made major investments in state-of-the-art manufacturing facilities that are part of a broader domestic industry supply chain that produced $65.8 billion in output in 2022 and employed 538,000 workers.”

Glas continued: “We are also grateful for Dr. Agama’s participation in the industry roundtable hosted by Unifi and substantive discussions around policy opportunities and challenges. We look forward to working closely with Dr. Agama, the USTR textile team and U.S. Trade Representative Ambassador Katherine Tai to advance policies that provide incentives for onshoring and nearshoring production and bolstering the industry’s competitiveness, while enforcing policies that address illegal trade practices that undermine this industry.”

“The U.S. textile industry has always been resilient, innovative, and a driving force of our nation’s competitiveness,” said Acting Assistant U.S. Trade Representative for Textiles Dr. Laurie-Ann Agama. “For USTR, this local engagement and conversations underscore our need to create trade policies that put workers first and promote inclusive economic growth. The spinning, knitting, and weaving operations of the textile industry are at the center of many communities across the Carolinas. This was another opportunity to hear first-hand how we trade can create jobs that allow workers, businesses, and communities to thrive.”