From the Sector

Die Verleihung der Förder- und Kreativitätspreise 2021 der Walter Reiners-Stiftung des VDMA, Fachverband Textilmaschinen an Studierende und Nachwuchswissenschaftler:innen deutscher Universitäten für Spitzenleistungen in Studium und Promotion fand am 09. November 2021 im Rahmen der Aachen-Dresden-Denkendorf International Textile Conference 2021 statt. Die bundesweit ausgeschriebenen Förder- und Kreativitätspreise wurden erneut online durch Herrn Peter D. Dornier, Vorstandsvorsitzender der Walter Reiners-Stiftung, verliehen.

Frau Dipl.-Ing. Irina Kuznik vom Institut für Textilmaschinen und Textile Hochleistungswerkstofftechnik (ITM) der TU Dresden wurde mit dem 3.000 EUR dotierten Kreativitätspreis des Deutschen Textilmaschinenbaues 2021 für ihre exzellente Diplomarbeit „Entwicklung zur umweltfreundlichen Herstellung neuartiger Chitosanfasergarne unter Einsatz von ionischen Flüssigkeiten" ausgezeichnet.

In ihrer Diplomarbeit entwickelte Frau Kuznik einen völlig neuen Ansatz zur ökologischen und ökonomischen Herstellung von Chitosangarnen. Unter Nutzung ionischer Flüssigkeiten als gut geeignetes, neuartiges Lösungsmittel für Chitosan lässt sich Chitosan mit geringen Deacetylierungsgraden sowie reines Chitin erfolgreich auflösen. In einem Nassspinnverfahren können damit erzeugte Spinnlösungen zu neuartigen Chitosan- bzw. Chitinmonofilamenten mit sehr guten morphologischen Eigenschaften hergestellt werden. Des Weiteren lässt sich die ionische Flüssigkeit mittels eines Verdampfungsverfahrens aus dem Abwasser zurückgewinnen und wiederaufbereitet werden.

The Crypton Companies (Crypton LLC and Nanotex LLC), leaders in high-performance fabrics for contract and residential interiors, has partnered with Hologenix®, LLC, whose CELLIANT® infrared technology is an ingredient in world-class brands across many categories. The two have collaborated to create a new textile innovation, Crypton® CELLIANT®, the first woven upholstery fabric with CELLIANT.

CELLIANT, ethically sourced minerals embedded into fibers, reflects natural body heat back to us as infrared energy. It has been clinically tested and proven to increase cellular oxygenation for improved energy, stronger performance, faster recovery, better sleep and overall enhanced wellbeing. With the tagline “easy care meets self-care,” the new Crypton CELLIANT fabric additionally offers Crypton’s performance characteristics. These include moisture-resistance, stain-resistance, spill-repellence, odor-resistance and cleanability. Both Crypton’s contract fabrics and its Crypton Home lines will offer collections of this innovative blend of Crypton performance along with CELLIANT’s energy-enhancing properties.

Crypton CELLIANT is exclusively woven at The Crypton Mills at Broad River, the firm’s own mill in Cliffside, North Carolina, and enhanced with performance technology in its research and manufacturing facility in Kings Mountain, North Carolina, to the highest environmental standards. Like all Crypton products, Crypton CELLIANT is GREENGUARD® Gold Certified. Crypton CELLIANT will be introduced to market through distributors in early 2022.

The Hygiene Fibers Group of Indorama Ventures (IVL) came together at the Index Show to present an all-inclusive range of recycled and biodegradable solutions for Hygiene Fiber and Nonwoven applications.

The combination of polymers, technologies, processes and global reach supported by the Hygiene Fibers Group – one of three business segments that make up Indorama Ventures – positions it within the Hygiene industry to meet increasingly challenging market demand for innovative sustainable solutions within the hygiene sector. Across the six brands and companies that make up Hygiene Fibers Group – Auriga, Avgol, FiberVisions, Indorama Asia, Trevira and Wellman International – sustainability and supporting customers to achieve circular objectives is integral to all efforts and fundamental to the ethos of the Hygiene business segment.

At the Index Show, the Hygiene Fibers Group launched CiCLO®, a textile technology which allows polyester and other synthetic materials to biodegrade like natural materials do in wastewater treatment plant sludge, sea water and landfill conditions, reducing synthetic microfiber pollution generated during washing, and minimizing plastic accumulation in landfills caused by discarded textiles.

In line with the company’s commitment to support customers with high performance products, while also reducing the impact on the environment, several of the  Hygiene Fibers brands, including Wellman International, Trevira GMBH and Auriga, have been working closely over the last 12 months with the IAM team and the CiCLO® technology. Developments have focused on PET and rPET staple fiber and filament sustainable solutions for applications where recycling is particularly challenging, such as Hygiene, Home Textiles and Automotive applications.

Strengthening the profile of biodegradable offerings within the Hygiene Fibers Group’s sustainability portfolio, Trevira introduced a new range of bicomponent fibres based on PLA and PBS (polybutylene succinate) at the Index show. Both biopolymers offer an exceptional technological opportunity in terms of environmental care and sustainability, while delivering optimum performance. Equally to PLA, PBS is recyclable and up to 100% biodegradable under industrial conditions.

Efforts towards supporting customers to achieve circular objectives are a priority within the Hygiene Fibers Group. This is reflected in the recycled fibers expertise deployed across the segment. Four Hygiene Fibers Group brands, IVL Asia, Auriga, Trevira and Wellman International offer an extensive range of 100% recycled, accredited PET fibers, across a multitude of fiber and nonwovens applications.

The development and evolution of sustainable technologies is central to activity across IVL’s Hygiene Fibers Group, with particular focus on sustainable polyolefin solutions. FiberVisions and ES-FIBERVISIONS, leading Polyolefin mono and bico fiber brands and sister company Avgol, have partnered with UK-based Polymateria to commercially harness the innovative ‘biotransformation’ technology pioneered by Polymateria. The patented technology alters the properties of polyolefins to make them biodegradable in a natural process.  Other polyolefin sustainable innovations within the Hygiene Fibers Group were featured at Index include biosurfactant and biocolourant developments being undertaken by the Avgol team with FiberVisons progressing sustainable design solutions, including lightweight, high performance, reduced carbon solutions.

• JUMBO-Textil offers elastic high-tech braids – produced on high-tech systems

Developing narrow textile solutions for our customers – quickly, flexibly and precisely – that is our claim. For us and for our technology. Because first-class industrial solutions require first-class technology. Highly automated and digitally controlled. Technology like that found in our variation braider from Herzog – the high-performer among modern braiding machines. JUMBO-Textil is the first narrow textile manufacturer ever to produce elastic hole cords on the special system.

High-performance system for extremely stable textile components
The special system combines sophisticated bobbin lace technology with digital control and thus enables the production of highly complex, individually specifiable braided structures. The variation braider's technology ensures an uninterrupted fibre course across all branches. This not only allows individual, idiosyncratic geometries, it also and above all helps with the stability of the components. This is because where other methods create branching points that are susceptible to breakage due to laser cutting, seams or knots, the variation braider simply braids through the branched strands. As the fibre course is not interrupted in braided branches, the resilience of the textiles is significantly increased. And individual braids are created for very different applications.

Bobbin lace technology for highly complex structures
Unlike in classical braiding systems, the impellers of the variation braider are arranged in a square. Up to eight different strands can be braided and interlaced with the textile all-rounder. All bobbins can be programmed separately and thus the bobbin lanes can be combined variably and individually. JUMBO-Textil also produces tubular braids with precisely defined braided openings, triaxial braids and highly complex preforms with the variation braider. The geometries of the narrow textiles range all the way to net structures. For braided cables, we create stable connections in the core-sheath braiding by weaving the core and the protective sheathing, which provides protection especially at the turns: there is no longer any undesired core and sheath slippage.

Individual braid architectures – for automotive, outdoor and more
Complex non-elastic cords from the variation braider have been in operation at JUMBO-Textil for a long time. For hole cords – or bifurcation cords (from the Latin: furca, the fork) – the bobbin points are individually programmed so that the arrangement and length of the branching precisely meet the requirements. It is used, among others, in the automotive sector, in the construction industry and in the outdoor sector to hang or unhang elements without using metal.

Elastic hole cord from the elastics specialist
The elastic hole braids by JUMBO-Textil are new on the market. "The variation braider offers us fantastic possibilities: we can pre-configure what we want to braid and are completely free to do so. The repeat is computer-controlled," explains Holger Vehring, Project Engineer at JUMBO-Textil. "A seamless braided cable harness tubular that organises the cable mess (for automotive), braided hoses with defined openings for conductive elements in smart textiles or rehab applications, as tensioning elements in backpacks or functional clothing – the possible applications are vast. Thanks to this technology, textile – i.e. lighter, quieter and more flexible – components can be used for numerous applications in which metallic materials were previously used due to the fragile branching points."

Korteks, one of the world’s biggest yarn producers based in Bursa, Turkey, has started the production of recycled polyester filament yarn in its production facility using a Starlinger recycling line.

With the new recycling facility, which comprises a total closed area of 17,000 m² and has a monthly production capacity of 600 tons, Korteks was able to reduce the production waste at its virgin PES yarn site to zero.

The Starlinger recoSTAR universal 165 H-VAC iV+, which is part of Korteks’ 10 million dollars investment in a new polymer recycling facility, took up operation in May 2021. It has a production capacity of 7,200 tons per year and currently processes clean in-house polyester fibers from production scrap together with washed post-consumer PET flakes at a ratio of 50/50. Korteks uses the polyester regranulate at a share of 100 % for its new polyester filament yarn line it is going to market under the name “TAÇ Reborn”. With this investment, the company has made an important step towards establishing a circular economy in the Turkish textile industry.

The Starlinger recycling line is the first of its kind in Turkey and is equipped with special components for filament yarn recycling. A RSC (Rapid Sleeve Changer) candle filter developed by Starlinger ensures finest melt filtration down to 15 μm. It has been specially designed for polyester recycling and reaches an output of 1000 kg/h. For continuous operation the filter elements are changed “on the fly” without interrupting production, which significantly limits melt loss.

The viscoSTAR SSP unit at the end of the recycling process guarantees consistent IV increase according to the first-in-first-out principle. This makes sure that the produced regranulate has the ideal properties required for filament yarn production. The technical configuration of the line does not only allow the processing of a polyester fiber/PET flake mix as input materials, but also 100 % polyester filament scrap or 100 % PET bottle flakes.

Korteks expects the recycling market in general to grow as there is increased acceptance for recycled products in the society, and predicts the need for recycling solutions also for other synthetic and natural fibers.

• The success story of cellulose fibres continues - plastic bans drive innovation – 300 participants and 30 exhibitors are expected in-person and online
• 2-3 February, Cologne (Germany), hybrid event

Cellulose fibres are among the winners of the European 'Single-Use Plastics Directive (SUPD)', which has been in effect since July 2021 and entails plastic bans for a variety of single-use products. Cellulose is the main component of plant cell walls and a natural polymer. As a result, disposable products made of cellulose and cellulose fibres are not labelled as plastic and are explicitly excluded from the regulation. The success story of cellulose fibres will thus continue at a rapid pace with new developments and applications. Building on the success of this year's conference with 200 participants, the International Conference on Cellulose Fibres 2022 will again cover the entire value chain, from lignocellulose, chemical pulp, cellulose fibres such as rayon, viscose, modal or lyocell and new developments to a wide range of applications: Textiles of all kinds, nonwovens such as wet wipes and new areas such as composites or nanocellulose in the food industry. All these sectors have gained considerable momentum in recent years.

Cellulose fibres have been a success story within the textile market with a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) between 5 and 10 % over the last ten years and similar growth rates are expected in the coming decade. This makes cellulosic fibres the fastest growing fibre group in the textile industry and also the largest investment sector in the global bioeconomy.  The challenge now is to achieve a balance between the ongoing capacity expansion and the growing demand, to avoid overcapacity while still meeting rising demand from the major brands. These high growth rates are driven by the increased demand for natural fibres (and bottlenecks in cotton production), the microplastic issues, and bans on plastics in disposable applications. All three factors will continue to play an important role in the development of the sector in the future.

Focus of the conference

• Impact of plastic-bans on single-use products
• Transformation from fossil to renewable raw materials
• Challenges in developing new value chains
• Alternative raw materials for cellulose fibres
• Latest technology and market trends
• Market dynamics and stakeholders in the cellulose sector
• New ecosystems and partnerships
• Development of political environment
• Improvement of sustainability in production

Companies are now invited to submit presentations as well as their latest developments for the Innovation Award.

Call for Abstracts and Posters
Abstract submission is open now. Latest products, technologies, developments or market trends are welcome.
Deadline for submission: 15 October 2021

• International Conference on Cellulose Fibres 2022, 2-3 February in Cologne, Germany and online – Call for Abstracts and Posters – 300 participants and 30 exhibitors are expected

Cellulose fibres are among the winners of the European 'Single-Use Plastics Directive (SUPD)', which has been in effect since July 2021 and entails plastic bans for a variety of single-use products. Cellulose is the main component of plant cell walls and a natural polymer. As a result, disposable products made of cellulose and cellulose fibres are not labelled as plastic and are explicitly excluded from the regulation. The success story of cellulose fibres will thus continue at a rapid pace with new developments and applications.

Building on the success of this year's conference with 200 participants, the International Conference on Cellulose Fibres 2022 will again cover the entire value chain, from lignocellulose, chemical pulp, cellulose fibres such as rayon, viscose, modal or lyocell and new developments to a wide range of applications: Textiles of all kinds, nonwovens such as wet wipes and new areas such as composites or nanocellulose in the food industry. All these sectors have gained considerable momentum in recent years.

Cellulose fibres have been a success story within the textile market with a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) between 5 and 10 % over the last ten years and similar growth rates are expected in the coming decade. This makes cellulosic fibres the fastest growing fibre group in the textile industry and also the largest investment sector in the global bioeconomy. The challenge now is to achieve a balance between the ongoing capacity expansion and the growing demand, to avoid overcapacity while still meeting rising demand from the major brands. These high growth rates are driven by the increased demand for natural fibres (and bottlenecks in cotton production), the microplastic issues, and bans on plastics in disposable applications. All three factors will continue to play an important role in the development of the sector in the future.

Companies are now invited to submit presentations as well as their latest developments for the Innovation Award.

Main topics of the conference:

• What is the impact of plastic bans on single-use products?
• The avoidance of microplastics and the transformation from fossil to renewable raw materials?
• What are the biggest challenges in developing new value chains and growing market demand?
• Which alternative raw materials for cellulose fibres are suitable and available?
• What are the latest technology and market trends?
• What are the future market dynamics? Who is active and interested in the cellulose fibre sector?
• What ecosystems and partnerships are needed to promote innovation in line with new market requirements?
• How will the political environment develop in the future?
• How can the sustainability of cellulose fibre production be further improved?

 
Call for Abstracts
Abstract submission is open now. You are welcome to present your latest products, technologies, developments or market trends. Submit your abstract as soon as possible.
Deadline for submission: 15 October 2021
https://cellulose-fibres.eu/call-for-abstracts

Call for Posters
Deadline for submission: 31 December 2021
https://cellulose-fibres.eu/call-for-posters

Call for Innovations
More information about the innovation award and the application can be found at
Deadline for submission: 15 November 2021
https://cellulose-fibres.eu/award-application

Sponsoring Opportunities: https://cellulose-fibres.eu/sponsoring

International technology Group ANDRITZ will be presenting its innovative nonwovens production and textile solutions at INDEX20 in Geneva, Switzerland, from October 19 to 22. The broad ANDRITZ product portfolio covers state-of-the-art nonwovens and textile production technologies such as air-through bonding, needlepunch, spunlace, spunbond, wetlaid/WetlaceTM, converting, textile finishing, airlay, recycling, and natural fiber processing.

One highlight at INDEX will be the new member of the ANDRITZ Nonwoven division: ANDRITZ Laroche – a company that has been an important partner for ANDRITZ in the field of fiber preparation for drylaid nonwovens for over 10 years. ANDRITZ Laroche is a leading supplier of fiber processing technologies such as opening, blending and dosing, airlay web forming, textile waste recycling, and decortication of bast fibers.

One focus of this product range is complete recycling lines for post-consumer and industrial textile waste to produce fibers for re-spinning and/or nonwoven end-uses. Customer awareness and regulations are pushing clothing brands to recycle their textile waste in their own products. Recycled fibers can also be used in the nonwovens industry for various applications, such as automotive, insulation, mattresses, and furniture felts.

• Circular economy at Kelheim Fibres: Examples of innovation from raw material, product design and all the way to “end of life”

Kelheim Fibres, the world's first viscose fibre manufacturer with an EMAS-certified environmental management system, is continuously working on optimising its special fibres. These can be functionalised as needed - in many cases to save further processing steps (such as dyeing or coating) and thus energy, water and chemicals - and are completely biodegradable at the end of their product life in a short time (according to OECD Test 301 B).

Currently, the specialists in Kelheim are working on the development of alternative raw materials for the production of viscose fibres, such as recycled cellulose as well as other cellulose-containing starting materials. One approach to closing the product cycle in the textile sector is the use of pulp produced from recycled post-consumer waste materials.

In production, Kelheim Fibres focuses on resource conservation by minimising emissions and waste through closed-loop recovery systems, as well as through highly efficient energy generation and the corresponding operation of the plants.

Dr. Roland Scholz, Project Manager Fibre and Application Development at Kelheim Fibres, will present details of this on Wednesday, 15 September, at 5.50 p.m., in Hall B of the 60th Dornbirn GFC WEBINAR WEEK.

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

There has been a sharp rise in demand for organic cotton products. Compared to conventionally grown cotton, the cultivation of organic cotton requires the renunciation of genetically modified seeds, chemical pesticides or fertilisers. Nevertheless, genetic modifications are repeatedly found in textiles that are falsely labelled with organic claims. Often, available certification systems are not backed up by lab testing. At best, they only take random seed samples. Textile testing specialist, Hohenstein, has developed an assessment method specifically for cotton. This new DNA analysis method makes it possible to ascertain the amount of genetically modified cotton contained in products. This is good news for textile industry stakeholders who will be on the safe side in terms of quality control and labelling of organic cotton products.

First step: qualitative screening and identification. Second step: quantification of genetically modified cotton.
For qualitative screening, Hohenstein experts had developed molecular biological detection systems to make clear yes/no statements about genetically modified cotton. Testing can be applied to all kinds of materials, from raw cotton to chemically untreated yarns and fabrics. In addition, Hohenstein is one of only a few laboratories in the world accredited to test for GMOs in accordance with the ISO/IWA 32:2019 protocol. Its method provides reliable evidence of the presence or exclusion of genetic modification in cotton textile precursors.

Once qualitative proof of genetic modification is obtained, Hohenstein experts begin quantifying the type and extent of the genetic modifications. To do this, they use DNA analysis to search for different cotton lines known to contain genetic alterations and quantify the proportion. Only by pinpointing individual genetic modifications and quantifying the extent of modification is it possible to provide precise information on whether there is an extremely small proportion of contamination, or whether larger proportions of GMOs have been mixed in. This offers clear benefits to manufacturers, brand owners and retailers when it comes to supply chain transparency and fraud prevention.