From the Sector

One piece at a time - work with precision, grow with wisdom: Luciano Vivolo unveils the strategy that has enabled his company to navigate these challenging years for the world of luxury and, particularly, leather: technological investments, diversification of supply and markets, sustainable innovation, and hope for the future, without ever conceding on quality.

In a demanding and competitive field such as haute couture, achieving nearly fifty years of success does not happen by chance. It requires consistently staying one step ahead, designing the future in its most elegant details while safeguarding the identity and uniqueness that form the foundation of a company’s heritage. What distinguishes Vivolo, for example, is its refined and original designs, the ability to develop prototypes in just 24 hours, and the capacity to produce over 8 million articles a year, all adhering to the company’s high-quality standards.

These founding values of Vivolo are rooted in the prestigious manufacturing tradition of Made in Italy. However, as founder and president Luciano Vivolo explains, while these values remain essential, they are no longer sufficient to guarantee success for Italian companies. "In recent years, we have faced all sorts of variables, unpredictable or, worse, unforeseen. The belief of luxury, like many cornerstones of our society and industry, is no longer as firmly established as it once was. The sector is experiencing a crisis with deeper roots than many might imagine. At Vivolo, we are tackling this situation as we always have, by working patiently, designing, cutting, sewing, and creating one piece at a time, but always looking towards the horizon to recognize new opportunities and needs."

In 2024, just one year after inaugurating its efficient and modern headquarters in Bologna (San Lazzaro), Vivolo announced the expansion of its production department. This 1,000 square-meter addition of machines, dedicated to footwear and leather goods, complements the company’s existing 10,000 square-meter production facility. The strategic decision to invest more than one million euros in these segments materialized not only in the purchase of advanced machinery but also in the hiring of highly qualified personnel and structural improvements that enabled the company to increase production volumes.

In addition to this vertical growth, Vivolo has also pursued horizontal expansion by strengthening its network of sales agents in Northern Europe, particularly Germany, Holland, and Scandinavia, and the Far East, focusing on South Korea and Japan. These regions, especially important for Vivolo’s denim sector, value the company’s iconic leather labels, which are hot-printed, high-frequency (HF) or digitally produced, making each garment unique. Vivolo’s innovative capabilities are further enhanced by a state-of-the-art 3D machine, which eliminates the need for die-casting facilities, significantly optimizing costs, time, and resources. A prototype can now be produced in just a few hours.

However, the range of Vivolo’s accessories extends far beyond this. Each season brings dozens of new themes that explore sustainable materials, innovative processes, original designs, and unique techniques to anticipate fashion trends and offer unexpected, inimitable solutions to luxury brands. At the heart of Vivolo's business is environmental ethics, a vision that embraces the product in all its dimensions while integrating both working and human processes and relationships.

"As rhetorical as it may sound, our corporate culture is built on the idea of leaving a better world, or the best possible world, for future generations. For me, this need is closely and pragmatically tied to my four children. From the first patches I created to mend my son Salvatore’s trousers in the 1970s to the investments in our new headquarters and the recent production expansion, every decision has been driven by the desire to build a better future for the Vivolo family and company, and for generations to come," adds Luciano Vivolo.

Looking ahead, the company, which prides itself on maintaining up-to-date certifications, including the recently added OEKO-TEX® LEATHER STANDARD, and transparent communication, is currently in the preparatory stage of drafting its first sustainability report. This milestone will provide an opportunity to reflect on objectives achieved and set goals for the future. "The Sustainability Report 2025 is a goal we have set for ourselves as a concrete demonstration of our commitment to creating and sharing value for all stakeholders," says Luciano Vivolo. "We expect 2024 to close on a positive note for our company, even though it is difficult to define precise figures at this time. Certainly, our goal for 2025 is to raise our standards even higher while hoping for a recovery in the luxury market, to which we have been connected for decades."

• Considering that 2024 summer discounts have increased compared to the previous year (+6%), even sharper price cuts are expected for Black Friday and Cyber Monday
• Outerwear: the growing popularity of suede garments suggests that brands should focus their discounts on other outerwear, such as down jackets
• Sneakers: basic and slim-fit models are selling out quickly, while those with a more structured fit are experiencing slower turnover

With Black Friday and Cyber Monday just around the corner, fashion brands are called upon to make conscious and targeted decisions to remain competitive during this peak season. In this context, Lectra, a leader in Industry 4.0 within the fashion, automotive and furniture sectors, leveraged real-time data from Retviews – its AI-powered solution for automated market intelligence to offer insights on increasing sales, reducing stocks and boosting profitability. These tips aim to guide brands in developing the most effective discount strategies based on key fashion trends for the year’s most popular shopping period.

Discounts: marked reductions are expected, but targeted at specific categories
For brands, preparing year-end discounts require careful planning to align with consumer preferences. The summer sales period, which represents the highest sales peak before winter promotions, serves as a valuable indicator. AI-based solutions, such as Retviews, are useful to identify and track items that only sell with discounts versus those with high sell-through rates and regular restocking. This allows brands to pinpoint when and where discounts are necessary, optimizing inventory and maximizing profitability.

In particular, Retviews data shows that summer discounts in Europe increased by 6% in 2024 compared to the previous year, suggesting even sharper price cuts for Black Friday and Cyber Monday.

In 2023 the average discount rate slightly decreased compared to 2022 (35% vs 37%); however, weaker summer sales this year indicate a greater quantity of products in stock, which may prompt brands to increase their reductions (following a trend that had already established itself in the United States in 2023, when discount rates had risen to 40%, compared to 37% in 2022).
Strategic and targeted price reductions, however, will help brands maintain margins while also meeting the demands from fashion enthusiasts. So, which product categories are likely to see the most significant discounts?
 
Autumn jackets: full price for suede outerwear, discounts on down jackets
In the autumn-winter season, outerwear is at the heart of collections, with this year's styles ranging from denim and leather to suede. Suede stands out as a premium, on-trend fabric with high consumer demand. For instance, in ZARA's latest collection, suede jackets quickly became bestsellers, with the brand’s blazers consistently selling out and being restocked, despite their premium pricing.
 
The popularity of suede highlights its potential as a full-price item, allowing brands to focus discounts on other pieces and prioritize full-price sales for trend-driven items. Classic and timeless styles continue to dominate, from tailored blazers to sophisticated silhouettes seen in prêt-à-porter, premium, and luxury collections. Meanwhile, down jackets, which are a key part of the Gorpcore trend, could now be considered a less promising investment for brands and may therefore see deeper discounts this Black Friday.

Sneakers: slim fits are bestsellers, while running shoes see lower demand
When it comes to sneakers, there has been a surge in popularity for classic, aerodynamic styles, with consumers gravitating towards slim and basic models inspired by Adidas classics such as Sambas, Gazelles, and Spezials. These slimmer, retro-inspired models are selling out quickly, while more structured sneakers appear to have slower turnover rates. According to Retviews data, retro and colorful sneakers have become bestsellers in brand collections from Adidas, Puma and Zara. On the other hand, bulkier, running-style sneakers are experiencing lower demand, with larger stock levels. Consequently, these items may be subject to special discounts.

Jeanologia celebrates the 25^th anniversary of its pioneering laser technology at Kingpins Amsterdam, with a unique capsule collection that blends the nostalgia of traditional denim with technological advances that have revolutionized the industry. This joint celebration with Kingpins – commemorating their 10th anniversary in Amsterdam and 20th globally – highlights the global impact of laser technology through a visual installation that traces a quarter century of innovation, with a focus on the future.

The launch of Jeanologia’s first laser in 1999 marked the beginning of a new era for the textile industry, improving sustainability, quality, and efficiency. By eliminating hazardous practices like sandblasting, this disruptive technology enhanced processes and redefined the concepts of innovation and sustainability in an industry rooted in craftsmanship. Today, this technology is used in 50% of global jean production, solidifying its position as an essential tool for top manufacturers and fashion brands.

Jeanologia has successfully integrated laser technology into the DNA of denim without losing sight of its classic heritage. This balance between tradition and modernity has cemented its significant impact on the industry. “Laser has enabled more sustainable production and opened up creative possibilities that were once unimaginable,” says Fernando Cardona, Head of Jeanologia's Brainbox.

25 LASER YEARS capsule collection of ‘old new designs’
To commemorate this milestone at Kingpins Amsterdam, Jeanologia will offer an interactive visual journey through the history of their laser technology and present a specially designed capsule collection to celebrate this anniversary.

This installation will showcase a special collection that captures the magic of laser by merging the classic with the modern. Patches, embroidery, and natural wear effects evoke the nostalgia of traditional denim, while the technology plays the silent protagonist behind each finish. The garments illustrate how laser allows iconic vintage effects such as stone washing, worn-out looks, washing marks, rips, and marbling effects using tools like the “Light Ripper” or “Light Scrapper.” The collection also explores the numerous creative possibilities these tools enable, including hyper realistic laser details, denim elements and bleach-like stains. This nostalgic approach invites the reinterpretation of the past through updated historical models that encapsulate the idea of continuous evolution and improvement in laser design.

This "old new designs" capsule collection symbolizes the connection between Jeanologia's legacy and its vision of a greener, more responsible textile industry, celebrating its history while inviting both the industry and consumers to be part of a more sustainable future in denim.

As part of the 25th-anniversary celebration, Jeanologia will offer a digital version of this capsule collection, with 25 digital designs that pay homage to the evolution of laser technology and its transformative impact. Visitors can also experience the unique digital design process with eDesigner software, taking home their digital garment to produce it sustainably anywhere in the world.

Jeanologia invites brands, designers, and consumers to be part of a new era of denim, where tradition and technology merge to create a greener, more innovative, and sustainable future.

A tribute to the ‘Denim Tribe’
Jeanologia does not commemorate this anniversary alone. The collections and the accompanying narrative are a shared tribute to the global community of brands, designers, and manufacturers who have embraced laser technology and contributed to its progress. “More than a celebration for Jeanologia, this is recognition of the entire industry, the ‘denim tribe’ that has courageously and responsibly adopted this technology, advancing towards a more sustainable future in fashion. Without their collaboration, we wouldn’t have achieved this impact,” emphasizes the Head of Technological Development at Jeanologia.

Monforts recently celebrated its 140th anniversary at a special event for staff and their families at its headquarters in Mönchengladbach, Germany. Building on a rich history since its foundation by August Monforts in 1884, the company remains 100% dedicated to the development of technologies that will ensure the future success of its textile industry customers.

Under the motto, ‘140 Years of Performance, Innovation and Partners’, Monforts is looking forward to further celebrating this milestone with its representatives and customers at the forthcoming ITMA Asia + CITME exhibition in Shanghai from October 14-18, in Hall 5 at stand C09.

The first Monforts machines were mechanical napping units for raising the surfaces of cotton fabrics, providing softness and warmth and adding value. By 1893, Monforts 24-roller napping machines were drawing appreciative crowds at the World Fair in Chicago – establishing international trade networks was paramount to the company from the outset.

In 1897, August Monforts established an iron foundry equipped with hydraulic casting machines, by which time the company employed 1,200 people. This was followed by the introduction of semi-automatic manufacturing tools – an area in which Monforts achieved a number of firsts, such as the single-spindle lathe which became a big export hit in the late 1930s due to its unique and unmatched precision.

Overseen by successive four generations of the Monforts family, the company’s range of textile machines has been significantly expanded based on decades of accumulated know-how and a dominant position in fabric finishing technologies has been established.

Since 2013, Monforts has been a member of the CHTC Fong’s Group, today one of the world’s largest textile machinery manufacturers.

Since its opening in 2013, the Monforts Advanced Technology Centre (ATC) in Mönchengladbach has proved a valuable resource to customers for achieving new standards in fabric finishing.

Over an area of 1,200 square metres, it houses two full finishing lines, engineered to accommodate an extremely diverse range of processes, in addition to a Thermex range for the continuous dyeing of denim and other woven fabrics, a full colour kitchen and a number of lab-scale systems for smaller batch trials.

“The ATC allows our customers to test their own textiles and technical fabrics on Monforts dyeing and finishing machines under fully confidential, real production conditions,” says Monforts Technologist Saskia Kuhlen. “Using the results from these trials, we are also able to make recommendations for improving many fabric finishes.”

International technology group ANDRITZ supplied and recently commissioned a tearing line at Sealy Australia’s mattress manufacturing plant in Brisbane. Versatile technology enables Sealy to recycle post-consumer and post-industrial textile waste in one line.

Sealy is a leading Australian manufacturer of high-quality mattresses, producing 1,000 mattresses per day at its Brisbane plant. To replace some of the virgin fiber feedstock with more sustainable recycled fibers, the company installed an ANDRITZ tearing line at the plant.

The ANDRITZ reXline tearing can process up to 1,200 kg/h of cotton denim waste and up to 800 kg/h of quilt waste. The 6-cylinder Exel module allows flexible switching between the two types of material. The combination of the reXline and the ANDRITZ airfelt line, which has been in operation at the Brisbane plant since 2008, enables Sealy to process large amounts of waste into new mattresses ready for sale around the world.

“With our new line, we are taking a significant step towards circularity by making new mattresses from textile waste that would otherwise be burnt or landfilled,” says Shaun Guest, Fiber Plant Factory Manager of Sealy Australia.”

Archroma, specialist in chemicals towards sustainable solutions, Kipaş Denim, a Turkish company with a focus on integrated textile production, and Jeanologia, a sustainable textile solutions company, are collaborating to pioneer a new denim finishing process for enhanced aesthetic appeal and greater sustainability.

Combining their advanced technologies, the three textile innovators are behind the launch of Kipaş Denim’s new Contra Denim concept – a breakthrough in denim dyeing and finishing that enables brands to create stunning and long-lasting distressed looks and designs effects, including intricate patterns, whiskering and fades, through cleaner processes that save water and energy and reduce greenhouse gas emissions.

Denim has traditionally been challenging to produce, especially for black and indigo fabric with a worn or distressed look, requiring significant water usage, harmful chemicals and intensive manual labor. The Contra Denim collection is laser- and laundry-friendly, with colors that are deep and durable. Stunning wash-down vintage effects and high contrasts are achieved via washing or laser techniques.

Contra Denim is based on Archroma’s DENIM HALO, a new approach to denim production that incorporates resource-saving pretreatment that includes DIRSOL® RD and dyeing processes to produce easy-wash laser-friendly denim. It delivers a substantially reduced environmental footprint compared to the industry-standard denim finishing process while reducing yarn shrinkage and improving garment tensile strength.

The Contra Denim’s vintage looks are achieved with advanced laser marking technology from Jeanologia. Thanks to the combination of Archroma and Jeanologia technologies, manual hand scraping or potassium permanganate spraying harmful for workers and the environment are completely eliminated.

Fernando Cardona, Brain Box Team Manager, Jeanologia, said: “As a purpose-driven textile technology company, we take pride in working with partners to accompany them through their transformational processes. We are delighted to work with industry leaders such as Archroma and Kipaş Denim, who are at the forefront of responsible denim production.”

Initially producing a ContraBlack Denim collection, Kipaş Denim has now extended the Contra line to classic indigo and other colors from the DIRESUL® RDT range.

The ContraBlack collection earned a Jeanologia Environmental Impact Measurement (EIM) score of 11 on stone wash versus the ring dyeing market standard score of 67. This confirms the low impact of the ContraBlack range in both water and energy consumption, chemical impact and workers’ health.

From 7 to 9 August 2024, the sixth edition of IFCO Istanbul Fashion Connection took place with 300 exhibitors in a total of 4 halls at the Istanbul Expo Centre.

With this event, Istanbul Fashion Connection underlines its importance as a hub for the international fashion industry. Compared to the previous year's event, the proportion of international visitors increased by 13.9%. Almost 18,000 visitors came to IFCO in Istanbul, 35% of whom came from abroad. The most represented region was Asia with 31.3%, followed by the Middle East (31.3%), Europe (16.4%), North Africa (13.4%), North America, South America and Africa together with 3.1%. High-ranking buyer groups from a total of 121 countries came to IFCO to find out about the latest fashion trends, network and place orders.

Divided into clear product areas on a total of 30,000 square metres of exhibition space in four halls, brands and manufacturers presented the latest collections from the areas of womenswear, menswear, kidswear, denim, sportswear, evening and wedding wear, lingerie, hosiery, leather and furs.

The next IFCO is planned for 5-8 February 2025.

• 300 exhibitors from all fashion sectors in clearly structured areas in four halls
• More than 30,000 visitors from over 100 countries are expected
• Set event: B2B meetings in speed dating mode - intensive networking support between fashion brands and buyers arranged by IFCO
• THE CORE once again inspires with collections by established and young designers
• IMA Trend Area with the theme ‘’Asencion SS/26’’ showcases innovations and trends reflecting the significance and influence of the current moment, perception of the now, uniqueness of cultural backgrounds, consideration of the reality revealed through new developments and their adaptation
• WGSN informs on the latest international fashion trends, fashion industry experts discuss recent innovations in the fashion on the occasion of IFCO Talk
• IFCO Shows inspire the fashion world with latest trends and designs

More than 30,000 visitors from over 100 countries are expected to attend the sixth edition of IFCO, Istanbul Fashion Connection with 300 exhibitors at Europe's largest fashion trade fair from 7 to 9 August 2024.

In 4 halls covering 30,000 sqm top designers and brands will present the latest fashion trends in womenswear, menswear, kidswear, denim, activewear and shoes in clearly divided product areas.

THE CORE, the exclusive designer area of the trade fair, has already creatively staged the Turkish design talents at previous editions of the fair. Over 20 designers will present their latest creations in hall 7, such as Arzu KAPROL, Meltem ÖZBEK, or Tuba ERGİN, who are represented internationally.

Market leaders and retail brands such as Naramaxx, B&G Store, Kayra, Jakamen, Giotelli, Armine, NCS, 7Camicie will use IFCO as a global platform to network with international industry leaders and expand their customer contacts, presenting their individual stand designs.

Programme
The co-operation with the renowned Fashion Designer's Association MTD for the IFCO Trend Area will be continued with this time's theme Ascension SS 26 creatively designed by IMA Istanbul Moda Akademisi. Through the power of the present moment and the conscious experience of the moment, the emphasis is placed on cultural identities. At the same time, the scrutinised reality that is revealed in the process of adapting to new developments is taken into account. The works created by the industry with this design language reflect this dynamic.

WGSN informs on the latest international fashion trends and developments for A/W 25/26. Next to this trend seminar fashion industry experts discuss recent innovations in digital art and fashion, new opportunities in fashion exports as well as the new face of Turkish fashion. A panel discussion is dedicated to the topic of denim and focuses on pioneering solutions for the new century in the denim industry.

ISKO is taking part in the Kingpins Show in New York City. At the event taking place on 17 and 18 July at Pier 36, Basketball City, ISKO presents a selection from its diverse collections.

Attendees have the opportunity to explore a selection from ISKO’s main collection, alongside some of the company’s most innovative technologies and products. Each piece exemplifies ISKO’s commitment to blending sophisticated designs with sustainable practices.

The Main Collection is organized into five main macro groups:

• Inflexible: a range of rigid fabrics for contemporary needs, true to denim’s original heritage.
• Motion: combining comfort and an authentic look for good old rigid denim with freedom of movement.
• Extended: traditional denim aesthetic and its ultimate stretch expression. Elegance, treatments, and 4-way-stretch technologies.
• Elite: fabrics families where softness, shine, and silky feel reach their full potential.
• Momentum: unique finishes, intricate constructions, colored coatings, and special denim features.

Other highlights are:

• Casual Line: the premium experience showcasing a versatile and innovative woven fabric collection made with FSC® certified viscose and certified postconsumer recycled polyester.
• ISKO™ Luxury by PG: curated by Paolo Gnutti, this collection merges classic tastes with contemporary visions.

Finally, as ISKO’s FW 25-26 collection features RE&UP fibers, visitors can learn more about the circulartech company that recycles cotton, polyester and polycotton textile waste and transforms it into high-quality Next-Gen fibers, becoming the go-to alternative to virgin options.

Freudenberg Performance Materials Apparel launches the complete RCY 99xx series recycled polyester (rPET) shirt interlinings. This product line serves as a sustainable counterpart to Freudenberg's renowned 95xx series, which has been a staple in the industry for over twenty years.

The 95xx series, celebrated for its unique bi-elastic properties, has earned its place as one of Freudenberg Apparel's most sought-after shirt interlining ranges.

Now, taking a leap towards sustainability, Freudenberg Apparel introduces the complete RCY 99xx series. Crafted from rPET, these bi-elastic interlinings are designed to complement an array of contemporary fabrics, including pure cotton, T/C, flannel, oxford, cotton & linen blends, seersucker, jersey, and all types of stretch knits. The RCY 99xx series not only preserves the natural hand-feel, texture, and shape of these fabrics but also infuses a fresh creative dimension into shirt design.

The RCY 99xx series boasts an weight range of 30-150 g/m2, offering versatility for a diverse spectrum of shirt styles, from men’s casual shirts and women's blouses to polo shirts, sports shirts, and denim shirts. This adaptability ensures that designers and manufacturers have the flexibility to meet the evolving demands of the market while upholding sustainability principles.