From the Sector

In the fourth quarter of 2023 Italian textile machinery orders index, drawn up by the Economics Department of ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, appears to be stationary compared to data recorded for the same period in 2022. In terms of absolute value, the index stood at 82.4 points (basis: 2015=100).

This is the result of an upswing in orders from foreign markets, counterbalanced by declining orders on the domestic front. While orders in Italy decreased at 18% rate, a 4% increase was observed abroad. The absolute value of the index on foreign markets amounted to 77.9 points, whereas it came in at 126.2 points domestically. Overall for the fourth quarter, the average order backlog yielded 3.7 months of assured production.

For the whole 2023 year, the index declined 25% overall compared to the 2022 average (absolute index of 82.4). On the home front however, the index dropped 24% (absolute index of 124.5), while slipping 25% abroad (absolute index of 78.4).

ACIMIT president Marco Salvadè commented the data: “The orders index for October – December 2023, as elaborated by our Economics Department, confirms an intake of orders that is still weak, with a negative trend in demand for machinery that is ongoing for the domestic market.” Nonetheless, the orders index abroad shows a slight increase. “We estimate that the global geopolitical context is still a source of concern,” continued Salvadè, specifying that, “For the first nine months of 2023, Italian exports on major global markets (i.e. China, Turkey, India and the United States of America), confirm a widespread decline. However, some positive signs emerged in the fourth quarter of last year, as reflected by the latest orders index. For 2024 we expect a consolidation of this trend reversal.”

Many end-users now expect recycled materials to be in textile products they purchase – and this is driving innovation throughout the industry. However, there are still many technical and economic issues facing yarn and fabric producers using recycled resources. Members of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association offer some effective solutions to these challenges.

Synthetic recycled materials such as PET can usually be treated similarly to new yarn, but there are additional complexities where natural fibres like wool and cotton are involved. Today, there’s a trend towards mechanically recycled wool and cotton fibres.

Spinning recycled cotton
The use of mechanically recycled fibres in spinning brings specific quality considerations: they have higher levels of short fibres and neps – and may often be colored, particularly if post-consumer material is used. It’s also true that recycled yarns have limitations in terms of fineness. The Uster Statistics 2023 edition features an extended range of fibre data, supporting sustainability goals, including benchmarks for blends of virgin and recycled cotton.
In general, short fibres such as those in recycled material can easily be handled by rotor spinning machines. For ring spinning, the shorter the fibres, the more difficult it is to guide them through the drafting zone to integrate them into the yarn body. Still, for wider yarn counts and higher yarn quality, the focus is now shifting to ring spinning. The presence of short fibres is a challenge, but Rieter offers solutions to address this issue.

Knitting recycled wool
For recycling, wool fibres undergo mechanical procedures such as shredding, cutting, and re-spinning, influencing the quality and characteristics of the resulting yarn. These operations remove the natural scales and variations in fibre length of the wool, causing a decrease in the overall strength and durability of the recycled yarn. This makes the yarn more prone to breakage, especially under the tension exerted during knitting.

Adapting to process recycled materials often requires adjustments to existing machinery. Knitting machines must be equipped with positive yarn suppliers to control fibre tension. Steiger engages in continuous testing of new yarns on the market, to check their suitability for processing on knitting machines. For satisfactory quality, the challenges intensify, with natural yarns requiring careful consideration and adaptation in the knitting processes.

From fibres to nonwovens
Nonwovens technology was born partly from the idea of recycling to reduce manufacturing costs and to process textile waste and previously unusable materials into fabric structures. Nonwovens production lines, where fibre webs are bonded mechanically, thermally or chemically, can easily process almost all mechanically and chemically recycled fibres.

Autefa Solutions offers nonwovens lines from a single source, enabling products such as liners, wipes, wadding and insulation to be produced in a true closed loop. Fibres are often used up to four times for one product.

Recycling: total strategy
Great services, technology and machines from members of Swiss Textile Machinery support the efforts of the circular economy to process recycled fibres. The machines incorporate the know-how of several decades, with the innovative power and quality standards in production and materials.
Stäubli’s global ESG (environmental, social & governance) strategy defines KPIs in the context of energy consumption, machine longevity and the recycling capacity in production units worldwide, as well in terms of machinery recyclability. The machine recyclability of automatic drawing in machines, weaving systems and jacquard machines ranges from 96 to 99%.

The testing service provider and research partner Hohenstein is joining the Innovation Park for Artificial Intelligence (IPAI) in Heilbronn. There are already points of contact with AI applications in some interdisciplinary research projects. In addition, there is the cooperation with the Munich-based start-up Sizekick and its AI-based technology for size recommendations, which aims to reduce size-related returns in online fashion retail.

"We expect the connection to the IPAI AI network to provide us with valuable impulses to remain fit for the future," explains Hohenstein CEO Dr. Timo Hammer, "This unique platform brings together a wide variety of players with their experience and knowledge. New ideas, projects and even products can be generated with great dynamism in the network as an intelligent response to future requirements. Because one thing is clear - artificial intelligence is THE key technology of the future".

The Innovation Park for Artificial Intelligence (IPAI) in Heilbronn (www.ip.ai) sees itself as an innovation platform for applied AI and a German lighthouse project with international appeal. The center is intended to map the entire AI value chain, from the qualification of specialists to the application of ethically responsible AI. The aim is to use the AI ecosystem to bring together companies, start-ups, research institutions, scientists, and public institutions and to secure Germany's digital independence and competitiveness in a key future technology.

adidas TERREX and National Geographic collaborate once again to launch a collection that pays homage to the rainforest supporting National Geographic efforts.

Throughout the collection, images captured by National Geographic photographers are interpreted in different ways on different products, taken through different hues and applied in various ways on garments across the range:

• ADIDAS TERREX | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC RAIN.RDY JACKET – Crafted from waterproofing materials and construction, adidas RAIN.RDY products keep the water out. The jacket also features easily-accessible pockets, a stowaway hood and elongated sleeves with hook-and-loop.
• ADIDAS TERREX | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC WINDSTOPPER JACKET - Made from GORE-TEX WINDSTOPPER, this WIND.RDY jacket is wind-resistant and water-repellent.
• ADIDAS TERREX | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC WINDBREAKER - Using advanced materials, adidas WIND.RDY is designed to resist the wind and provide optimised breathability hikers can feel protected and comfortable.
• ADIDAS TERREX | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC GRAPHIC LONG SLEEVE / SHORT SLEEVE TEE – The long sleeve tee combines technical materials with style beyond the mountain, including Aeroready material that wicks sweat to keep dry and comfortable.
• ADIDAS TERREX | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC PANTS - Marry style and functionality by combining outdoor-informed design and street-informed style together, complemented by Durable Water Repellent (DWR) material to stay dry and comfortable.
• ADIDAS TERREX | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SKIRT - Made in adidas' wind and water-resistant WIND.RDY fabric, this skirt is for adventures on or off the trail.

The theme of this season’s drop was inspired by National Geographic’s seasonal focus on educating people around rainforest awareness and conservation.

The Fashion for Good museum in Amsterdam marks its 6 year journey with a special fashion exhibition focused on circularity, called What Goes Around Comes Around. Honing in on how circularity plays out in different circles of influence, the exhibition showcases inspirational displays that make tangible what a circular fashion industry will look like.

What Goes Around Comes Around pays homage to the extraordinary work of pioneering artists, innovators and designers working to shift the fashion industry with new solutions. The exhibition opens January 27, 2024 and will be open to the public for 5 months. It is the grand finale, as the Museum is closing its doors. As such it will be the Museum’s final call to collective action, which the fashion industry still so highly needs.

“We are highlighting three areas in What Goes Around Comes Around", explains curator Sophie Jager-van Duren at the Fashion for Good Museum. “First: new work by local artists Atelier Reservé and The Patchwork Family, design collectives working towards circularity, demonstrating what is happening right now. We are also showing looks from established designers BOTTER, Ronald van der Kemp and Marga Weimans, Yuima Nakazato and Nicole McLaughlin. Second, the community, with an installation for visitors to participate in, planting the seed that we need each other to change the fashion system. Lastly, the industry - honing in on examples of innovations and technologies. We invited designers to create new work with circular materials including Living Ink, MIRUM, Altmat and Biophilica.”

Today’s fashion industry is caught in a vicious cycle of ‘take-make-waste’ and this system has a growing negative impact on people and the planet. For instance, in Europe, the average consumer is responsible for 15 kilos of textile waste per year and these numbers are increasing. To address this, we need action from individuals, the industry and society alike to go from a linear take-make-waste model into one that is circular by design.

The Fashion for Good Museum is inviting anybody to come visit its final exhibition and learn from concrete examples, to understand the current state of the fashion industry, gain the tools for taking individual or collective action and be inspired by circular fashion available today.

Designing for circularity means designing without creating waste or pollution, as all materials are continually reused instead of discarded. A circular system is restorative and regenerative and reduces pressure on natural resources. The ultimate goal of the exhibition is to put circularity into practice, help people envision a circular economy based on community practices and empower visitors to take collective action, starting in the museum but extending to their homes and daily lives.

Through the exhibition and its public programme, which consists of interactive workshops and educational events, the museum functions as a community space where visitors are invited to learn, gain new perspectives and are exposed to inspiring examples, building the skills and knowledge to create positive change. The upcoming few months there are multiple events, educational toolkits and other opportunities to join us, all open for the public, keep an eye out on our website and social media channels for the latest updates.

The exhibition is open for the public from Saturday 27th of January until June 5th 2024, marking World Environment Day on June 5th as the final closing day of the museum.

Disney unveiled the HoloTile floor, created by Disney Research Fellow and longtime member of Walt Disney Imagineering Research & Development Lanny Smoot.

The HoloTile floor is a multi-person, omni-directional, modular, expandable, treadmill floor. It allows any number of people to have a shared virtual reality (VR) experience, walk an unlimited distance in any direction, and never collide or walk off its surface.

The HoloTile floor can also be an insert in a theatrical stage, allowing performers to move and dance in new ways, or stage props and structures to move around or appear to set themselves up.

The new technology was revealed (see here), as Lanny Smoot is being inducted into the National Inventors Hall of Fame. He is the first Disney Imagineer to receive this recognition.

Smoot is also credited with giving Madame Leota her ability to “float” in the Séance Room at the Haunted Mansion at Disneyland Park; crafting the state-of-the-art extendable lightsaber used by Disney Live Entertainment; inventing the Magic Playfloor interactive game experience on the Disney Cruise Line; producing the immersive Fortress Explorations adventure at Tokyo DisneySea; and designing the virtual and interactive koi ponds at the Crystal Lotus Restaurant at Hong Kong Disneyland Hotel.

Leveraging insights from Wealth in Waste, Fashion for Good released a toolkit designed to revalorise textile waste in India.

"The Sorting for Circularity India toolkit is a milestone in our journey towards a waste-free world. We have mapped the textile waste landscape, unpacking the huge potential, as well as the roadblocks and commercial opportunities in India’s textile waste industry. We are excited to move beyond rhetoric with this powerful coalition of partners and translate our findings into a roadmap for concrete actions", said Katrin Ley, Managing Director, Fashion for Good.

In 2021, Fashion for Good launched the Sorting for Circularity India Project to organise the Indian textile waste market in a three-phase approach so as to streamline, strengthen and foster the Indian textile waste market to drive the transition to a more circular economy that recaptures value to its maximum potential.

The project brought together various industry players including Fashion for Good partners adidas, Levi Strauss & Co., PVH Corp., Target, Arvind Limited, Birla Cellulose, and Welspun India, as well as Fashion for Good innovators Reverse Resources, PICVISA, and Matoha; H&M, Primark, and TESCO also joined as external partners. The project is supported through catalytic funding provided by Laudes Foundation and IDH, and knowledge support from Canopy and Circle Economy Foundation.

Drawing upon the invaluable insights gained throughout the project, Fashion for Good unveils a toolkit designed to harness the untapped potential of textile waste in India. Together, these resources provide valuable insights, assessments, and practical guidance to advance recycling in India's textile industry.

• Bernhard Jucker will not stand for re-election as Chairman of the Board of Directors at the Annual General Meeting on April 17, 2024 due to reaching the age limit
• Thomas Oetterli will be proposed as the new Chairman of the Board of Directors at the 2024 Annual General Meeting and will continue in his role as CEO of the Rieter Group
• Roger Baillod will be named as Lead Independent Director
• Jennifer Maag will be proposed for election as a new member of the Board of Directors

Bernhard Jucker will not stand for re-election as Chairman of the Board of Directors at the next Annual General Meeting on April 17, 2024, having reached the age limit. The Board of Directors would like to thank Bernhard Jucker for his outstanding and valuable commitment. During his term of office, he has successfully developed the company through acquisitions and optimization of the sites.

The Board of Directors of Rieter Holding AG proposes to the shareholders the election of Thomas Oetterli as the new Chairman of the Board. He will continue in his role as CEO of the Rieter Group. The dual mandate is an interim measure to ensure the sustainable implementation of the “Next Level” performance program. The Board of Directors is convinced that Thomas Oetterli has the qualifications and the ideal background experience as the future Chairman of Rieter Holding Ltd.

Roger Baillod, member of the Board of Directors since 2016 and Vice Chairman since 2022, will be named as Lead Independent Director. Together with the Board of Directors, Roger Baillod will use his many years of experience to continue to ensure good corporate governance.

Jennifer Maag will be proposed for election to the Board of Directors at the Annual General Meeting on April 17, 2024. Ms. Maag, native-born in the USA, has Swiss and German citizenship and holds a Bachelor’s degree in Economics from the University of California, Berkeley (USA). Ms. Maag is currently a member of the Board of Directors of Kardex Holding AG, Zurich, Weidmann Holding AG, Rapperswil, VT5 Acquisition Company AG, Pfäffikon (SZ) and Nova Property Fund Management AG, Pfäffikon (SZ). In 1999, Jennifer Maag founded Capital Concepts International AG, Zurich (Switzerland), a mergers and acquisitions consulting firm, where she remains as managing partner. From 1996 to 1999, she was a senior manager in the corporate finance department of KPMG AG in Zurich. She previously worked in auditing at Deloitte in Munich (Germany) and Zurich, during which time she completed her education as a Certified Public Accountant (CPA).

Recently, OETI awarded the OEKO-TEX® STeP certification to two companies in the sector of personal protective equipment (PPE) and workwear: Ötscher - Berufskleidung Götzl GmbH, Austrian producer and wholesaler and longstanding PPE and OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 customer, and ALSICO MOROCCO (Cindico), a Moroccan PPE and work wear producer and part of the global Alsico Group, which has already introduced the certification for production facilities in Belgium and Laos.

OEKO-TEX® STeP stands for Sustainable Textile and Leather Production and is a certification system for production facilities in the textile and leather industry. The STeP system analyses critical areas of businesses using six modules: Chemical Management, Environmental Performance, Environmental Management, Social Responsibility, Quality Management, and Health protection and Safety at work.

For ALSICO MOROCCO (Cindico), OEKO-TEX® STeP offers the benefit of "a unified certification system and standardised audits to monitor social and ecological responsibility processes at global production locations," says Managing Director Mary Meylaers.

For the Austrian company Ötscher – Berufskleidung (workwear), Managing Director Thiemo Götzl emphasises the strengths of the certification in transparent communication with customers and stakeholders and a comprehensive overview of all aspects of the supply chain. "The certification also supports compliance with the German Supply Chain Due Diligence Act requirements through transparency and risk mitigation," says Thiemo Götzl.

ANDRITZ recently started up a new textile recycling line at Sfilacciatura Negro’s plant in Biella, Italy. Designed for processing post-consumer textile waste with automatic removal of hard parts, the tearing line supports the company’s expansion into new recycling segments.

In view of the growing demand for sustainable fibers in the re-spinning and nonwoven industries, Sfilacciatura Negro Biella decided to expand its recycling capabilities. The company has extensive experience in recycling industrial textile waste and already operates two tearing lines. Based on its long-term collaboration with ANDRITZ, it is now stepping into the recycling of post-consumer clothing waste.

The new generation recycling line ANDRITZ supplied to Sfilacciatura Negro is the result of ten years of close cooperation, trials in its technical center, and visits to customer lines in Spain and Portugal. ANDRITZ has tailored a complete line from feeding of sorted waste bales to baling of the recycled fibers. It is designed for highly efficient, energy-saving operation and features automated separation of hard points while maintaining a good material yield. An automated filtration unit is provided for airflow and dust management. Only one operator is needed to manage the entire line up to the recycled fiber baler. The baler can produce film-wrapped and tied bales with a weight of up to 350 kg.