From the Sector

Jeanologia has been honored with the title of 'Best Business Project' in the inaugural edition of the Spanish Fashion Academy Awards, aimed at recognizing and highlighting the key players in the Spanish fashion industry.

At a gala celebrating Spanish talent, Jeanologia emerged as a leading authority in sustainability and technology applied to fashion. The accolade from the Spanish Fashion Academy acknowledges Jeanologia's global vision and leadership, as well as its ability to catalyze positive change in the global fashion industry. Chosen from over 400 contenders and endorsed by the votes of 129 distinguished founding academics, the award reflects the recognition of Jeanologia's influence in the sector.

The award ceremony, held on Thursday, June 13, at Madrid's Teatro Fernán Gómez Centro Cultural de la Villa, attracted prominent figures from the Spanish fashion scene and marked a significant moment in Spanish fashion, paying homage to the legacy of Cristóbal Balenciaga, a pivotal figure who would have turned 129 in 2024.

Enrique Silla, CEO and founder of Jeanologia, accepted the award statuette, a design by Helena Rohner inspired by Balenciaga's iconic headdress.

Mayer & Cie. presented an overview of its current portfolio in the circular knitting sector at the ITM in Istanbul. Two machine types – the SF4 3.2 III and the Relanit 3.2 HS II – and various smart solutions that make circular knitting more efficient were on display. knithawk, a tool for the optical detection of knitting defects, met with interest among the visitors. The same was true for knitlink, Mayer & Cie's hub for digital solutions. Spare parts packages and conversion kits are also in demand for the long-term value retention of Mayer & Cie. machines.

Relanit 3.2 HS II
The Relanit 3.2 HS mechanical single jersey machine offers high productivity, especially in the context of elastic plating. It processes a wide range of yarns and qualities reliably. It is suitable for processing recycled yarns. Their energy consumption is up to a third lower than that of a circular knitting machine with conventional technology.

In Istanbul, Mayer & Cie. presented an updated version of its flagship, the Relanit 3.2 HS II. The new open-width take down is the single component that attracted the most interest. It ensures a uniform pull-off tension of the knitted fabric over its entire circumference. The knitted hose is only opened below the take-down rollers. Furthermore, the take-dwon is equipped with two drives: one for tensioning, one for rewinding. Both can be controlled separately.

Another innovation of the Relanit 3.2 HS is aimed at reducing downtimes: The needle with predetermined breaking point, which was developed together with Groz-Beckert, prevents it from breaking uncontrollably and, in the worst case, breaking needle butt. The new spring sinker is also a joint development with Groz-Beckert. This makes the Relanit 3.2 HS II run more smoothly, produce less noise as well as with less wear and tear.

SF4-3.2 III for lightweight three-tread fleece knitted fabrics
With its SF4-3.2 III, Mayer & Cie. is addressing a trend in the clothing industry that is reflected beyond Turkey: lightweight, elastic three-thread knitted fabrics in both pure cotton and blends.

New Control 5.0 machine control system
Both ITM machine exhibits were on display with the new Control 5.0 machine control system. Control 5.0 is a prerequisite for using knitlink, the hub for Mayer & Cie's digital applications. In this function, the machine control system attracted interest from various large customers.

In the standard SmartControl version, as shown in Istanbul, a so-called Smart Knob is attached to each machine foot. From there, all the functions that the machine operator needs for his work are available. More in-depth settings, such as those made by the knitting manager, are only possible from a mobile device. Any number of Mayer & Cie. machines can be operated from this at the same time.

knithawk
knithawk, a tool for optical defect detection, inspects the knitted fabric as it is produced. It sits in the single jersey machine directly at the knitting point. If knithawk detects a serious or recurring error, the machine is stopped. The tool also creates an error log.

Machine-specific upgrade and conversion kits
With its upgrade kits, Mayer & Cie. brings technological innovations to existing machines. These range from machine-specific upgrades, such as the Performance Kit for existing Relanit 3.2 models to the Senso Blue RS lubrication system.

In addition to the upgrade kits, Mayer & Cie. offers conversion kits for popular machine types. Two are currently available: for the MV4 3.2 II/MBF 3.2 and the S4-3.2 II/ SF4-3.2 III.

CARBIOS and TOMRA Textiles, a tech venture set up by the sorting technology company TOMRA, announce the signing of an agreement to collaborate on establishing an efficient stream in Northern Europe from textile waste collection, sorting and preparation to recycling using CARBIOS’ enzymatic depolymerization technology at its first commercial plant currently under construction in Longlaville, France

The monomers obtained will be used to produce recycled polyester (r-PET) fiber, closing the loop for polyester textile circularity.

The innovations from both TOMRA Textiles and CARBIOS contribute to addressing critical gaps in the value chain and significantly increase textile-to-textile recycling from its current rate of 1%¹. By accelerating a circular economy for polyester, a sustainable alternative to incineration or landfill is made available.

TOMRA Textiles is on a mission to close the gap in textile circularity, by contributing to designing and scaling textile sorting plants. Under this partnership agreement, TOMRA Textiles will explore specific, tangible measures to enable the preparation of post-consumer polyester waste for biorecycling according to CARBIOS’ specifications.

CARBIOS' biorecycling technology involves breaking down polyester fibers into their basic components using enzymes, which are then used to produce high-quality recycled PET materials such as fibers for the textile industry. The breakthrough collaboration with TOMRA will redirect the challenging PET fraction of polyester textile waste towards biorecycling, showcasing a mutual dedication to pioneering recycling solutions for a circular economy.

¹ Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, applauds the U.S. House of Representatives for passing the Wastewater Infrastructure Pollution Prevention and Environments Safety (WIPPES) Act (H.R. 2964). The WIPPES Act, which creates national standards for “Do Not Flush” labeling for non-flushable wipes, passed out of the House Committee on Energy and Commerce in December of 2023, and on June 12, it cleared the House floor in a bipartisan vote. The bill now awaits consideration in the Senate Science, Commerce, and Energy Committee.

This bipartisan legislation is intended to address the growing problem of sewer system clogs caused by improper disposal of consumer wipes that are not intended to be disposed of in toilets. This federal solution is the result of a years-long industry collaboration with wastewater operators which has resulted in the passage of similar legislation in seven states. The WIPPES Act will create a national standard based on existing state laws to ensure non-flushable wipes will carry prominent “Do Not Flush” labeling on packaging.

“INDA has championed this legislation for the past two years and we are encouraged to see it pass out of the House. We extend our thanks to the bill sponsors, our industry and wastewater partners, and INDA members as we take another step forward to make “Do Not Flush” labeling nationwide,” said Wes Fisher, Director of Government Affairs.

The WIPPES Act lead sponsors in the House are Representative Lisa McClain (R-MI) and Representative Mary Peltola (D-AK) and the bill was introduced in the Senate by Senator Jeff Merkley (D-OR) and Senator Susan Collins (R-ME).

Rund 120 Teilnehmer aus der Wäscherei- und Reinigungsbranche kamen am 04. Juni in Casablanca, Marokko, zum ersten Texcare Forum auf afrikanischem Boden zusammen. Im Mittelpunkt des Austauschs zwischen lokalen Fachbetrieben, internationalen Experten und Herstellern standen die Themen Automatisierung, digitale Technologien, Produktion, Logistik und Umweltschutz im Bereich textiler Dienstleistungen. Die Konferenz zeigte die Besonderheiten der Märkte Nordafrikas auf und bot einen Vorgeschmack auf die globale Leitmesse der Textilpflegebranche, die Texcare International, im November 2024 in Frankfurt am Main.

Die Entscheidung für Casablanca als Veranstaltungsort des Texcare Forums lag in seiner Bedeutung als wirtschaftliches Zentrum der gesamten Maghreb-Region begründet. Mit über 100 Millionen Einwohnern, einer starken Tourismuswirtschaft und einer bedeutenden Textilindustrie ist diese ein zukunftsträchtiger Standort für die Textilpflege-Branche. Gerade Marokko erwartet als Co-Gastgeber der Fußball-Weltmeisterschaft 2030 neue ökonomische Impulse.  

Im Hotel Hyatt Regency wurde den Teilnehmern neben einem spannenden Vortragsprogramm umfassend Gelegenheit zum Netzwerken geboten. Am zweiten Veranstaltungstag konnten Interessierte sich zudem auf eine Exkursion zu führenden Wäschereien der Region begeben.

Organisatoren und Partner des Forums waren neben der Messe Frankfurt der VDMA Textile Care, Fabric and Leather Technologies sowie die französische Handelskammer in Marokko (CFCIM). Als Hauptsponsor fungierte die Firma Christeyns, zu den weiteren Sponsoren zählten Kannegiesser, Tolon, Jensen, Imesa, ABS Laundry und CM2W.

Im Zentrum des Texcare Forum Casablanca stand ein umfassendes Konferenzprogramm In jeweils einstündigen Panels teilten Expert*innen ihr Wissen, beantworteten Fragen und standen anschließend für Fachgespräche zur Verfügung.

Gehalten wurden die Vorträge in französischer Sprache mit einer simultanen Übersetzung ins Englische. Die Moderation übernahm die Branchenexpertin Sandra Minette von der Texcare France.  

Das Programm war gegliedert in vier Themenblöcke:

• Unternehmensstrategie: Neue Digitalisierungs- und Automatisierungstechnologien
  Auf dem Texcare Forum Casablanca teilten die Branchenexperten Rémi Uriet (ABS LBS), Badre Bouitane (Blanchisserie Ecoblanc) und Andrea Garoia (Jensen) ihr Fachwissen zu Themen wie Arbeitserleichterung, Digitalisierung von Prozessen und vernetzten Unternehmenslösungen.
• Energie und Wasser
  Miloud Bouzziri (Christeyns Maroc), Aziz Lamrani (Blanchisserie AB Maroc) sowie Audrey und Arnaud Bretéché (Cabinet Bretagne Environnement) gaben anhand von Untersuchungen und praktischen Fallstudien Anregungen zur Verringerung der Umweltauswirkungen im Wäschereiprozess.
• Produktion und Logistik
  Hélène Ducarre (Optim Expertise), Patrik André (Maison de Blanc) und Badre Bouitane (Blanchisserie Ecoblanc) vermittelten neue Herangehensweisen zu Themen wie Wäsche-Nachverfolgung, Liefermanagement, der passenden Wahl von Materialien und Equipment sowie dem richtigen Umgang mit Saisonalität
• Interne Wäschepflege vs. Outsourcing
  Spannende Einblicke zur Optimierung des Wäschemanagements in einem Hotel, zur Mitarbeiterschulung und zur ewigen Frage: „Selbst machen oder auslagern?“ gaben Pascale Allaert (Meilleure Ouvrière de France), Jérôme Guéné (Laundry & Cleaning Consulting) und Lydie Barrand (Generalgouvernante des Hotels Royal Mansour Casablanca).

Johannes Schmid-Wiedersheim, Director Brand Management Textile Care, resümiert: „Mit dem Texcare Forum Casablanca wollten wir der boomenden Tourismusindustrie der Region sowie dem Gesundheits- und öffentlichen Sektor ein Forum zum Thema professionelle Wäschepflege anbieten und den Austausch mit Beratern und Lieferanten herstellen. Ich glaube, das ist sehr gut gelungen! Die Besucher konnten sich in kurzer Zeit auf den neuesten Stand der Verfahren zur Sicherung der Qualität, Hygiene und Nachhaltigkeit ihrer Textilien bringen. Für die internationalen Teilnehmer bot sich die Gelegenheit, den marokkanischen Markt mit seinen ganz spezifischen Chancen und Herausforderungen besser kennenzulernen. Schon beim Netzwerken vor Ort haben sich daraus sehr spannende Gespräche und vielleicht zukünftige Projekte entwickelt.“

Veronika März vom VDMA Textile Care, Fabric and Leather Technologies konstatiert: „Das Texcare Forum in Casablanca bot eine ausgezeichnete Gelegenheit, einen Einblick in den aufstrebenden Markt Marokkos für Textilpflege zu erhalten. Das abwechslungsreiche und hervorragend besetze Konferenzprogramm gab interessante Einblicke zu wichtigen Branchenthemen wie der Digitalisierung von Prozessen, der Verringerung von Umweltbelastungen und vielem mehr. Zudem boten sich ausgezeichnete Gelegenheiten zum Networking und um neue Kontakte innerhalb der marokkanischen Textil(pflege)industrie zu knüpfen.“

The Lectra Group company announced a new collaboration between TextileGenesis, the textile traceability platform and the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC®). It will enable the implementation, via the TextileGenesis platform, of new solutions to ensure the traceability of cellulose fibers from responsibly managed forests.

In fashion, many textiles such as viscose, lyocell and modal use man-made cellulose fibers. These fibers are themselves made from wood pulp, the production of which can contribute to deforestation.

Founded in 1994, the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC®) is an international NGO whose mission is to promote responsible forest management worldwide. In particular, the organization offers certification for products and raw materials which have been obtained from wood grown in responsibly managed forests, and comes from supply chains where social rights of workers, communities and indigenous peoples have been safeguarded.

Amit Gautam, founder and CEO of TextileGenesis, explains: "We've already been working with Man Made Cellulosic Fiber Producers for several years to facilitate, thanks to our blockchain-inspired technology, the traceability of fibers manufactured by the most virtuous producers, and we've integrated their analysis criteria into our platform. By also becoming an FSC® partner today, we're taking things a step further. This new collaboration will support companies in the traceability of FSC certified fibers and support the administration and data management of FSC Chain of Custody certification. All players in the value chain will benefit from increased transparency and much more reliable upstream data. Fashion brands will be able to demonstrate much more easily that their garments use textiles made from responsibly sourced man-made cellulose fibers."

Fabian Farkas, FSC International Chief Commercial Director, adds: “We are seeing a rapid increase in interest in FSC certification from the textile industry, marking a very positive trend. Through this collaboration with TextileGenesis, we aim to simplify the administrative part of FSC certification for companies within the textile supply chain by automating many required data processes. Our goal is to empower brands to identify opportunities for seamless progress in meeting their FSC procurement policies.”

Following the signature in October 2023 of a memorandum of understanding with the International Cotton Association (ICA) and the launch last January of two consortiums with footwear and leather players, and more recently the announcement of its partnership with the Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF), the initiator of The Good Cashmere Standard® (GCS), TextileGenesis confirms, with this new collaboration with the FSC®, its central place in the ecosystem of players mobilizing for more sustainable and responsible fashion.

Chargeurs PCC Fashion Technologies has signed a binding agreement to acquire two strategic business units of the Swiss company Cilander, much renowned worldwide for its expertise in the supply of high-end textile fabrics and finishing services for complex textiles used in a wide range of applications.

The project includes the acquisition of the historic factory of the company, Geissbühler, located in Lützelflüh. The factory is a cornerstone of its finishing activities for high-tech textile solutions to address demanding markets such as the military, interior design, sports, and mobility. The site is the legacy of an industrial history that began in 1677, almost 350 years ago. With its Planofil® brand, Cilander markets high-performance textile fabrics for outdoor use, particularly in the nautical world. Cilander also offers a range of finishing options and can tailor-make products to customer specifications.

Under the agreement, CFT PCC also plans to acquire the shirt fabrics business, which mainly comprises the ALUMO brand, founded by Karl Albrecht, joined by Robert Morgen in 1941. For over a century, ALUMO has been at the forefront of offering fabrics made from the finest, highest-quality cotton for men's shirts. The company is the preferred supplier of tailors and specialized luxury brands worldwide, relying on its E-commerce platform.

In addition, Cilander's fabrics business includes the Eugster & Huber brand, aimed at women's fashion brands. The portfolio also comprises Brennet, known for its high-quality fabrics with a contemporary touch, and Swiss Ghutra, a brand specializing in high-end fabrics and headpieces for a clientele in the Middle East.

When completed, this acquisition will strengthen the development capabilities of Chargeurs PCC Fashion Technologies, a leader in interlinings for the garment industry. Thanks to Cilander’s high-tech products and solutions, the business line will open doors to new, particularly demanding niche markets, notably the military market and reinforce its market share in the apparel segment, especially shirt-making.

A new type of pure synthetic leather meets the requirements of the European Ecodesign Regulation. Made from a bio-based plastic, it is biodegradable and meets the requirements for a closed recycling process.

Many synthetic leathers consist of a textile substrate to which a polymer layer is applied. The polymer layer usually consists of an adhesive layer and a top layer, which is usually embossed. The textile backing and the top coat are usually completely different materials. Woven, knitted, or nonwoven fabrics made of PET, PET/cotton, or polyamide are often used as textile substrates. PVC and various polyurethanes are commonly used for coatings. The use of these established composite materials does not meet today's sustainability criteria. Recycling them by type is very costly or even impossible. They are not biodegradable. The search for alternative materials for the production of artificial leather is therefore urgent. In 2022, the EU adopted the Sustainable Products Initiative (SPI) ("Green Deal"). It includes an eco-design regulation that considers a product's life cycle in the conservation of resources. For textile and product design, this means incorporating closing the loop or end-of-life into product development.

In an AiF project carried out in close cooperation between the DITF and the Freiberg Institute gGmbH (FILK), it has now been possible to develop a synthetic leather in which both the fiber material and the coating polymer are identical. The varietal purity is a prerequisite for an industrial recycling concept.

The aliphatic polyester polybutylene succinate (PBS) was recommended as the base material because of its properties. PBS can be produced from biogenic sources and is now available on the market in several grades and in large quantities. Its biodegradability has been demonstrated in tests. The material can be processed thermoplastically. This applies to both the fiber material and the coating. Subsequent product recycling is facilitated by the thermoplastic properties.

In order to realize a successful primary spinning process and to obtain PBS filaments with good textile mechanical properties, process adjustments had to be made in the cooling shaft at the DITF. In the end, it was possible to spin POY yarns at relatively high speeds of up to 3,000 m/min, which had a tenacity of just under 30 cN/tex when stretched. The yarns could be easily processed into pure PBS fabrics. These in turn were used at FILK as a textile base substrate for the subsequent extrusion coating, where PBS was also used as a thermoplastic.

With optimized production steps, PBS composite materials with the typical structure of artificial leather could be produced. Purity and biodegradability fulfill the requirements for a closed recycling process.

Stratasys Ltd. is announcing updates to several Industrial and Healthcare Business Unit products and Stratasys Direct. These include a new open platform for the F900™ 3D printer, more on-demand 3D printing capabilities and a new high-performance material for its Fused Deposition Modeling line.

OpenAM comes to the F900
Stratasys OpenAM™ is a software application that enables the user to modify machine controls to achieve results beyond standard print settings. Already available for the Fortus 450®mc printer, Stratasys is now making its OpenAM software available for the F900 printer. This will allow for expanded functionality and capabilities and will unlock new materials for F900 users.

New VICTREX AM 200 material for FDM
A new material offering that opens the application potential for demanding industries like aerospace and medical, where material properties are critical components of a 3D-printed solutions. This new high-performance, high-strength, validated material, VICTREX AM™ 200, will be available for the Fortus 450mc and the F900. VICTREX AM 200 is a PEEK-based polymer that is temperature, corrosion, and chemical resistant, with excellent mechanical properties which can be utilized with soluble and breakaway support material.

Carbon Fiber Visual Print Option for the F-Series
Carbon Fiber Visual Print Option is a new 5-slice (0.005”) layer height across the F-123 Series™ line of printers that is coming later this month for FDM®ABS-CF10. It produces a smoother surface finish, to provide the perfect finish when a part’s visual appearance is important to the application. It is built for applications that demand the durability of a carbon-filled polymer, but also requires a visually appealing result without additional post-processing.

F770 adds New Colors
The F770® printer can now print in multiple colors, in addition to its original single ivory color. Six new ASA colors, including red, white, light gray, black, blue, and yellow, will allow for more application versatility with FDM® ASA and ABS-M30 tried-and-true engineering plastics. The new colors enable printing without painting or other post-production marking, allowing parts to be available much faster, increasing productivity.

Somos NeXt Validated for SLA
Somos® NeXt™ is now a validated material for Stratasys NEO® stereolithography 3D printers. Somos NeXt is a resin with superior strength and can be used in automotive and consumer products, along with other applications, including prototyping, to produce durable, accurate and detailed parts.

New GrabCAD Software Print Integration Enhances On-Demand 3D Printing Capabilities
Stratasys has introduced Parts on Demand by GrabCAD, a new integration that synchronizes the company's software platform with Stratasys Direct. This addition allows GrabCAD Print™ customers to access Stratasys Direct’s fleet of 3D printers, allowing for larger and more intricate designs, a selection of more than 50 engineered materials, and the assurance of stringent quality inspections.

KARL MAYER GROUP has developed a sophisticated system for considerable energy savings when operating the cylinder dryers in its PROSIZE® sizing machines and BLUEDYE dyeing plant.

Saving costs with inline energy recycling
The innovation is called CASCADE and focuses on steam as a heating medium in cylinder dryers. And for good reason: according to the IPCC report by ITMF Zurich, one tonne of steam cost between USD 20 and just under USD 27 internationally in 2021. The new solution relies on reuse to reduce the amount of process energy required.
"CASCADE recirculates parts of the process steam in cylinder dryers, enabling genuine, efficient energy recycling within the machine," explains Karl-Heinz Vaassen, Head of Textile Drying at KARL MAYER.
The customer benefits from significantly lower energy costs and CO2 emissions. With a view to the Asian market, a dryer with 14 cylinders and a running time of 7,000 working hours can achieve cost savings of up to USD 17,000 per year.

Precise, real savings values are available when looking at the machine dashboard. A sensor provides real-time data on the amount of steam circulating in the circuit, from which the corresponding reduction in CO2 equivalents can be calculated.

Utilizing the pressure drop
CASCADE reuses part of the invested process energy and uses the flash-steam in conjunction with the pressure ratios, which - nomen est omen - decrease in cascades in the different zones of the cylinder dryer.
The highest working pressure prevails in the first cylinder section. The heat transfer medium steam emits large amounts of energy for yarn drying and condenses without temperature loss.

The resulting hot condensate is not immediately discharged from the machine, but is instead fed into a flash tank, where vapor exhaust is formed as a result of the pressure reduction. In conventional systems, the carrier medium for gases is only created in the return line towards the boiler house and is eliminated as undesirable. Instead of being utilised in the process, it escapes into the environment. With the CASCADE system, this "freshly recycled steam" is used for the heat supply in the second cylinder section, but not without prior treatment.

In the system patented by KARL MAYER, the recycled steam is intelligently mixed with live steam and thus raised to the level of the required process conditions for use in the cylinder section at the end of the dryer. Here, the fabric moisture is reduced to the desired residual value at medium pressure and temperature conditions.

Market launch is underway
CASCADE was filed for patent by the KARL MAYER GROUP. It was published in September 2023.
The innovative solution at no extra charge was presented at ITM 2024 in Istanbul and was a visitor highlight at the KARL MAYER GROUP stand.

From January 2024, CASCADE will be part of the PROSIZE® as standard. The first sizing machine with the upgrade for greater energy efficiency will be delivered in the second quarter of this year. It will go to a manufacturer in Europe. In the next step, CASCADE will be integrated into other dryer types and will also be available for the BLUEDYE.