From the Sector

International technology group ANDRITZ has received an order from the leading Ukrainian manufacturer of household and hygiene products, Biosphere Corporation, to deliver its first complete neXline spunlace line. The ANDRITZ spunlace line will enable Biosphere to produce fabrics from 30 to 70 gsm, with an hourly output of up to 3,000 kg/hr after the second commissioning phase. Start-up is scheduled in two stages – the first one in the first quarter of 2022 and the second in early 2023, reaching full production capacity.

The high-capacity spunlace line will double the company’s current production capacity and is designed to process various types of fibers, such as polyester/viscose blends and natural fibers. It is dedicated to the production of household, medical and hygiene fabrics, such as cosmetic, disinfecting and baby wipes.

Andriy Zdesenko, founder and CEO of Biosphere Corporation, says: “Our goal is to carry on creating innovative and premium-quality products. When ANDRITZ came up with a tailor-made offer combining its cutting-edge spunlace technology with full flexibility for our future installation, we knew they were the ideal partner to support us in our business development.”

In 2019, ANDRITZ Diatec delivered a baby diaper converting line to Biosphere. With this additional order, ANDRITZ is demonstrating its strong global position as a supplier of state-of-the-art and tailor-made sustainable nonwoven solutions.

Founded in 1997, Biosphere Corporation has become the market leader in the production and distribution of household and hygiene products in the Ukraine and the CIS and a key converter player in Eastern Europe and Central Asia. The company is expanding rapidly on the international market, including Africa.

• The Green Revolution: How Microfactories Can Change the Face of Fashion by Mark Sollman, Product Manager EMEA, Mimaki Europe

With the all-important COP26 Climate Change Conference having taken centre stage in November, there is no time like the present for the fashion world to rally together in stepping up sustainability efforts and getting carbon emissions under control. Globally, the fashion industry is now estimated to account for around 10 percent of greenhouse gas emissions and 20 percent of wastewater , making the pursuit of greener production methods more pertinent than ever before. Thankfully, we are seeing a new era of production enter the fashion arena, with the increasing emergence of technologically advanced, highly automated microfactories.

Along with reducing unnecessary waste through on-demand production, microfactories have a smaller ecological footprint than traditional garment production and require no water use during the production process, making it not only a faster solution, but a greener one too.

Last year’s FESPA saw Mimaki team up with fashion designer Carolina Guzman to bring her designs to life in real time at the show, setting up its own working microfactory live on-site to take her designs from screen to garment within just a day. Guzman’s designs were created using Mimaki’s TS100-1600 Sublimation Printer, before being transferred to textile, digitally cut and finally pieced together. Devised with a string of ethical and environmental objectives threaded throughout, the microfactory also exclusively utilised eco-friendly Greentex fabric, and any remaining material was donated to Sheltersuit: a wind- and waterproof coat that can be transformed into a sleeping bag, which is provided free of charge to homeless people and refugees.

Through working with a number of strategic partners – including transfer printing expert, Klieverik; paper solutions specialist, Neenah Coldenhove; and digital cutting equipment provider, Summa – Mimaki was able to produce a collection of unique, high-quality garments live on the stand during the tradeshow, demonstrating to visitors from more than 100 countries some of the key reasons that microfactories seem set to change the future of fashion…

Unparalleled speed and versatility
Where traditionally, apparel manufacturing has centred on a production chain model of sourcing materials and producing garments in bulk, microfactories are now enabling on-demand, on-location production, making it possible to create everything from unique, one-off pieces and samples right through to entire product lines – all at unprecedented speeds. This means greater flexibility and customisation, enabling designers to modify or update designs and respond to market trends as they occur.

Simplified supply chains and minimised risk
The microfactory setup brings production in-house and on-demand, minimising the cost of not only storing stock, but also of shipping it and responsibly disposing of unsold items. Where recent geopolitical events have highlighted the fragility of global supply chains, microfactories offer a unique independence from these systems, empowering garment manufacturers to future-proof their businesses, become less reliant on external systems and suppliers, and reduce the risk of disruptions.

A boosted bottom line and a greener future
Facilitating savings in a whole line of resources, from physical storage and production space to time and energy, microfactories ultimately have the potential to significantly increase profitability for garment manufacturers, with the additional benefit of being easily scalable as production increases. Perhaps even more compelling, however, are the environmental considerations. Demonstrated on a small scale through Mimaki’s recent project, the environmental benefits inherent to microfactory production will have an even greater impact as it becomes more prolific and commonplace throughout the fashion world, with the potential to effect meaningful environmental change as adoption increases in the years to come.

The traceable sustainability label for textiles and leather goods again recorded the strongest growth within the OEKO-TEX® portfolio. Compared to the previous year, the number of MADE IN GREEN label holders increased by 55 percent (as of 31/12/2021). While home textiles continue to occupy the top spot as the strongest category (bedding with an increase of 80 percent compared to the previous year), there is currently movement particularly in the apparel category. With a year-on-year increase of 156 percent, workwear and protective clothing recorded the biggest growth. This makes it clear how quickly demand for sustainably manufactured products is developing in all textile product areas.

• Strengthening market position in Asia-Pacific

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited (IVL), a global sustainable chemical company, announces that it is in the process of acquiring shares in Ngoc Nghia Industry – Service – Trading Joint Stock Company (NN).

NN is a leading PET converter in Vietnam with long-standing relationships with major brands. It has four manufacturing sites in both the North and South of Vietnam. It has a total production capacity of approximately 5.5 billion units of PET preforms, bottles and closures, or equivalent to a PET conversion of 76,000 tons per annum.

Operating with high quality standards, NN is a trusted provider of PET packaging products to major multinational and Vietnamese brands in the beverage and non-beverage industries. Its business operations are run by an experienced management team with strong industry knowledge as well as local market exposure and understanding. These competitive advantages are strategic fits for IVL and would complement the company’s long-term growth after integration. This proposed acquisition will strengthen IVL’s market position in the packaging business in high growth markets of the Asia-Pacific region.

Mr. D K Agarwal, CEO of Combined PET, IOD and Fibers Business at Indorama Ventures, said, “This investment opportunity is in line with IVL’s business strategy of expanding our footprint in rising economies like Vietnam. The country is positioned to be the ASEAN production hub for the Asia-Pacific region. Moreover, Vietnam’s PET packaging market is expected to grow continuously due to strong growth in consumption and improving living standards. The proposed acquisition would foster sustainable growth in our largest business segment, Combined PET, which has been growing constantly to serve increasing demands globally.”

The acquisition process is required to follow the Law on Securities, its guiding decrees and circulars as required by the State Securities Commission of Vietnam and regulations of the Hanoi Stock Exchange. Through its affiliate, Indorama Netherlands B.V., IVL would be required to do the tender offer of all of NN’s shares. The transaction is expected to be completed by the first half of 2022.

The Spring Editions of Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles and Yarn Expo will now take place from 14 – 16 April 2022 instead of their original March date. They will continue to be held at the National Exhibition and Convention Center (Shanghai) alongside CHIC and PH Value.
 
“With the evolving situation of the pandemic globally, we have decided to hold our three spring fairs in mid-April,” Ms Wendy Wen, Senior General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd explained. “At this stage, we are still processing how the Omicron variant affects the hosting of large-scale events, so this new date provides us and our stakeholders with extra time to plan accordingly so we can ensure the fairs take place in a safe environment.”
 
“We are hoping to continue the momentum that was generated at last year’s Autumn Editions where our many returning international exhibitors were well received, as well as to capture the opportunities in the domestic market with strong growth in production, revenue and profit recorded in the first three quarters of 2021.”

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited (IVL), a global sustainable chemical company, has been recognized as an “Achiever” in the Global Children's Rights and Business 2021 benchmark by the Global Child Forum. The company has been ranked 7th out of 28 global chemical companies and is the only Southeast Asia-based company included in the Basic Materials category this year.

This recognition demonstrates IVL's commitment to supporting children's rights and child-friendly business practices in the workplace, marketplace, and community and environment by adopting Children's Rights and Business Principles (CRBP) of UNICEF. The company has a wide range of initiatives that ensure children’s rights, in line with the UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) of good health and well-being, quality education, gender equality, clean water and sanitation, and decent work and economic growth.

Chief among IVL’s contributions to children’s rights is the Recycling Education program for the younger generation. The program aims at creating awareness and providing knowledge about recycling and waste separation, in which everyone can take part. By supporting youth as a priority, the program aims to educate future business and community leaders how to lead their organizations, communities, and other consumers in doing the right thing to protect our environment. During the past few years, the program has educated almost 50,000 people of which are students from more than 100 schools. Initiated in Thailand, IVL is now expanding the Recycling Education where it operates globally.

The State of Children's Rights and Business 2021 benchmark report is produced by the Global Child Forum, a leading children’s rights organization, and the Boston Consulting Group by surveying 832 large global companies in nine industries and assessing 27 standardized metrics from its Code of Conduct. This report focuses on the rights of children along with sustainability supervision based on publicly available information.

In view of the exponential worsening of the pandemic situation worldwide and the accompanying tightened travel and contact regulations, the consumer goods fairs Christmasworld, Paperworld, and Creativeworld are cancelled for January 2022 and Ambiente for mid-February 2022. The regionally-oriented trade fair Nordstil from 15 to 17 January 2022 in Hamburg will take place at the present time.

The easing of the pandemic situation that was still hoped for in December is no longer in sight. Instead, the situation is deteriorating worldwide with an enormous, unforeseeable dynamic. This extreme deterioration due to the spread of the Omicron virus in Europe and Germany currently makes it impossible for Messe Frankfurt, as organiser of the leading international trade fairs Christmasworld, Paperworld, and Creativeworld, as well as Ambiente, to keep their dates in Frankfurt at the end of January and in mid-February 2022.

The four events, consisting of Christmasworld with its focus on seasonal and festive decorations, Paperworld and Creativeworld with their product ranges for paper, office supplies, stationery and hobby, craft and artists' requisites and Ambiente with its cross-sector range of products for the table, kitchen and housewares, furnishing and decorative accessories, home furnishing concepts, gifts and fashion accessories, are the recognised leading trade fairs in their sectors and open the trading year in their respective segments. Even in a reduced numerical form, the four trade fairs would still have been the leading events worldwide for their respective product segments.

However, the exponential increase in the number of infections worldwide in a very short period of time and the accompanying multitude of developments and decisions that are clearly outside the organiser's sphere of influence have led to a significant deterioration in the general conditions and necessary prerequisites for holding the four leading trade fairs as major events of international relevance at the end of January and in mid-February 2022 respectively. These developments include the classification of Germany as a high-risk area and the associated travel warnings and international and intercontinental travel restrictions in countries such as India, Japan and the United States, as well as the corresponding quarantine obligations. Equally important are the steadily rising infection figures and the accompanying urgent appeal, among others by the Robert Koch Institute and the expert council of the German Federal Government, to continue to reduce contacts to a minimum and to cancel all major events. At present, there are even further international fears that the critical infrastructure will not be maintained due to the highly contagious Omicron variant. The majority of exhibiting and visiting companies at Christmasworld, Paperworld, and Creativeworld as well as Ambiente are currently reacting to this overall situation with travel and trade fair attendance bans for reasons of duty of care towards their employees to protect them from health risks. The global willingness to travel is dropping enormously at the moment.

There are no plans to postpone the event. Detlef Braun, Member of the Executive Board of Messe Frankfurt, explains: "Since the trend-oriented order cycles of the international consumer goods industry require an annual event at the beginning of the year, a shift to the second half of the year would not meet the needs of the exhibiting companies and visitors."

Nordstil to be held in Hamburg from 15 to 17 January 2022
In the interests of the sectors involved, the planning and implementation of Nordstil from 15 to 17 January 2022 is not affected. This trade fair will take place in the Free and Hanseatic City of Hamburg at this time due to other general conditions for local implementation. However, the extremely volatile situation is continuously reviewed and assessed in close exchange with the relevant local authorities and industry partners.

Messe Frankfurt's digital platforms for business success
Messe Frankfurt has already been actively helping retailers to help themselves since 2019 with Nextrade, the first order and data management platform for the home and living sector, and Conzoom Solutions, an information platform for the global consumer goods sector. "A second year without appropriate ordering, inspiration and networking formats poses considerable and in some cases existentially threatening challenges for retailers worldwide," Braun explains. "With our digital offers, we are specifically supporting our partners in industry and trade in this volatile situation. In addition, we will continue to put all our energy and optimism into safe and promising trade fairs. Because there is no substitute for meeting in real life."

Information on the planning of the Frankfurt consumer goods fairs for 2023 will be announced at the beginning of February 2022.

• Session "New Technologies for Pulp, Fibres and Yarns"

Cellulose fibres are a true material miracle as they offer a steadily expanding, broad range of applications. Meanwhile markets are driven by technological developments and policy frameworks, especially bans and restrictions on plastics, as well as an increasing number of sustainability requirements. The  presentations will provide valuable information on the various use-opportunities for cellulosic fibres through a policy overview, a special session on sustainability, recycling and alternative feedstocks, as well as the latest developments in pulp cellulosic fibres and yarns. In addition, examples of non-wovens,  packaging and composites will offer a look beyond the horizon of conventional application fields.

The extensive fifth conference session, “New Technologies for Pulp, Fibres and Yarns”, includes the participation of eight speakers and promises the reveal of various innovations and new approaches. These address the processing of pulp, fibres and yarn, with the aim of realizing most sustainable and efficient solutions. The broad spectrum of topics ranges from processing cellulose with ionic liquids, material farming and chemical modification of pulp to functionalised fibres for feel-good textiles.

Speakers of the Session "New Technologies for Pulp, Fibres and Yarns"

• Antje Ota - Deutsche Institute für Textil- und Faserforschung (DITF) (DE): The Versatility of the HighPerCell® Technology for Cellulose Filament
• Carlo Centonze - HEIQ (CH): HeiQ AeoniQ – Cellulose Yarn Focussed on Climate and Circularity
• Manuel Steiner - LIST Technology AG (CH): Cellulose Dissolving Technology Platform
• Dominik Mayer - Kelheim Fibres (DE): Functionalized Viscose Fibres for Wellbeing Textiles: How Infrared Celliant® Viscose supports a Healthy and Sustainable Lifestyle
• Michael Sturm - TITK (DE): Method for the Evaluation of the dissolution Power and dissolution Quality of Cellulosic Raw Materials dissolved in New Ionic Liquids
• Kaoutar Aghmih - Hassan II University (MA): Rheology and Dissolution of Cellulose in Ionic Liquid Solutions
• Ofir-Aharon Kuperman - Weizmann Institute of Science (IL): Material Farming and Biological Fabrication of Cellulose Fibers with Tailored Properties
• Taina Kamppuri - VTT Technical Research Center of Finnland (FI): Chemically Modified Kraft Pulps to Improve the Sustainability of Regenerated Fibres

• AMSilk Partners with Mercedes-Benz to Present a Sustainable Bio-Based Product
• The use of a biotechnology-based and certified-vegan silk-like fabric marks a first in the automotive sector

AMSilk GmbH (“AMSilk”), a leader in supplying innovative high-performance bio-based silk materials, announced a partnership with Mercedes-Benz, for the development of novel, sustainable car door pulls, as part of the car manufacturer’s latest technology programme, the VISION EQXX.

The new concept car, VISION EQXX, features innovative interior materials, revealing a way forward for luxury design that conserves resources and is in balance with nature. Among the organic interior design features are new door pulls made from AMSilk’s Biosteel® fiber. This high-strength, certified-vegan, silk-like fabric is made using AMSilk’s proprietary biotechnology expertise. AMSilk is the world’s first industrial supplier of vegan silk biopolymers which are 100% biodegradable, recyclable, renewable and zero-waste.

Marking a first in the automotive sector, AMSilk’s Biosteel® provides a solution to the car industry whose need to replace petroleum-based content by natural, bio-based materials is increasingly growing.
This new project is the most efficient electric vehicle Mercedes-Benz has ever built and marks a new expression of efficiency and sustainability in interior design. The all-electric VISION EQXX was unveiled in a digital world premiere on the “Mercedes me” media online platform.

Ulrich Scherbel, Chief Executive Officer of AMSilk said: “We are extremely proud to partner with Mercedes-Benz on the technology programme VISION EQXX, providing sustainable interior design solutions from our best-in-class bio-based fibers. Amid a fresh wave of ambitious climate pledges, we are proud to be playing a leading role in providing solutions for a zero-waste future.”

• Session "Recycling and Other Alternative Feedstocks"

Cellulose fibres are a true material miracle as they offer a steadily expanding, broad range of applications. Meanwhile markets are driven by technological developments and policy frameworks, especially bans and restrictions on plastics, as well as an increasing number of sustainability requirements. The  presentations will provide valuable information on the various use-opportunities for cellulosic fibres through a policy overview, a special session on sustainability, recycling and alternative feedstocks, as well as the latest developments in pulp, cellulosic fibres and yarns. In addition, examples of non-wovens,  packaging and composites will offer a look beyond the horizon of conventional application fields.

The fourth session, "Recycling and other alternative raw materials", will cover topics ranging from textile recycling - both cotton and regenerated cellulose fibres - to the use of hemp shives as raw material. Self-initiated cooperation and waste management pave the way to a fully closed European material loop where textile waste is collected, recycled and reprocessed into new raw materials.

The speakers will demonstrate the importance of cooperation in recycling fabrics already in circulation, perfectly following the topics and discussions of the previous conference day.

• Heikki Hassi - SciTech-Service (FI):  Textile Recycling and MMCFs; Systemic Challenges, Market Opportunities and Advancing Technologies
• Valerie Langer - Canopy (CA): The Perfect Storm – A Five Year Feedstock Shift Forecast
• Helena Claesson - Södra (SE): Two is better than one – Lenzing and Södra together Face the Challenge of Recycling of Textiles
• Marina Crnoja-Cosic - Kelheim Fibres (DE) and Harald Cavalli-Björkman - re:newcell (SE): Sustainable Cellulosic Fibres from Recycled Raw Materials – A Solution for Europe
• Frank Meister - Thüringisches Institut für Textil- und Kunststoff-Forschung (DE): Lyohemp Fibres Made of Dissolving Pulp Based on Hemp Shives
• Miguel Sanchis-Sebastiá - ShareTex (SE): Expanding Textile Recycling Beyond Cotton: Innovations to Recycle Regenerated Cellulose Fibers