From the Sector

Teijin Frontier Co., Ltd., the Teijin Group’s fibers and products converting company, announced the development of a new, multifunctional and comfortable polyester material that combines high breathability and UV protection. This new product reproduces the structure of a traditional Japanese "Sudare" blind (bamboo blind), which allows breezes to pass through while blocking out sunlight.

As extremely high summer temperatures become increasingly common, Teijin Frontier developed this new polyester to meet market demands for materials with enhanced heat protection functions. Heat protection encompasses breathability, UV resistance and anti-stickiness. However, until now, breathability – achieved by gaps between fibers – and UV protection were thought to be mutually exclusive.

To solve this dilemma, the company created a structure with slit-shaped, highly breathable areas in either the warp or weft direction of the fabric. These three-dimensional gaps, similar to those in a bamboo blind, allow the material to deliver both excellent breathability and high UV blocking performance of 85 percent or more. The structure allows air permeability of 50㎤/㎠・s or more.

This new product also offers sustainability benefits through the incorporation of recycled polyester in part. Its structure and elastic fibers provide stretch performance, while an uneven surface caused by differences in thread shrinkage and its structure avoid stickiness. Moreover, to achieve the combination of functions, Teijin Frontier also adopt special high-shrinkage technology and dying finishing technology. This material offers potential for use in both fashion and casual clothing.

Teijin Frontier will begin promoting this product for the 2025 spring and summer fashion and casual clothing collections in Japan, aiming for sales of 250,000 meters in fiscal 2024 and 750,000 meters in fiscal 2027.

KM.ON launches its new Quality Monitoring System (QMS) for the retrofit market at ITM from June 4 to 8 in Istanbul, presenting a solution for quality management on warp knitting machines.
For its performance in defect detection, the QMS uses the advances of our time: a camera system that captures images of the production process, and a specialized artificial intelligence (AI) to analyze the images. Particularly in terms of handling, reliability and precision of defect detection, the QMS from KM.ON offers advantages over conventional systems that do not rely on AI analysis.

The QMS is designed for easy setup and can be operated without prior expertise. If a defect causes the machine to come to a standstill, the operator is informed immediately via a user-friendly interface. The immediate warning enables rapid intervention and therefore less downtime and more productivity.

Thanks to its conceptual design, the QMS only stops production when actual defects are detected. Unnecessary interruptions caused by external disruptive factors, such as changing light conditions, are avoided. This precision prevents productivity losses and helps to ensure continuous operation. Costs due to unnecessary machine downtime are avoided.

Unlike conventional camera systems, the QMS detects even the most complex defects and triggers an immediate machine stop. This minimizes material waste. During operation, the AI-controlled system learns from the data to enhance its detection accuracy, thereby reducing the reject rate and costs. The QMS also adapts to evolving production environments to ensure consistently high efficiency.

Manufacturer of activewear and swimwear, Active Apparel Group (AAG), has committed to a structured approach in reducing its environmental impact across its global operations through an Environmental Management System (EMS). The EMS, built using the ISO14001 Standard Framework, incorporates key environmental policy commitments and has set targets and strategies to reduce the carbon footprint of its operations across China, Australia and USA.

Through a third-party audit of its greenhouse gas emissions (GHGs), AAG has identified the following areas of focus to reduce impacts:

• Reduction in Scope 1 energy use
• Reduction in air freight
• Reduction in water usage across the business
• Ongoing collection and management of production waste
• Increased use of sustainable materials
• Continued collection of GHG data for ongoing improvement

AAG’s EMS is designed to be embedded within the operations of the business, with functional ownership of targets established and education of the team prioritized, to deliver results on reducing environmental impact. Quarterly reporting of its progress is communicated to stakeholders and reviewed by the company’s Board of Directors.

The EMS is part of AAG’s ongoing Responsible Business Strategy - a company-wide commitment to driving continuous improvement across the areas of Governance, Social and Environmental impact. Other initiatives include Living Wage Audit by Bureau Veritas (AAG pays 100% Living Wage); Materiality Assessment; Supply Chain Traceability Project; Circularity and Waste Management along with annual third-party audits - SMETA, Gold WRAP, Supplier Qualification Program and its Modern Slavery Statement.

SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan will participate in the ITM 2024 International Textile Machinery Exhibition in Istanbul, Türkiye from 4th to 8th June 2024 with a full product lineup.

WHOLEGARMENT® knitting has recently gained heavy interest from the apparel industry due to the shrinking workforce of skilled sewing and linking personnel, as well as for its sustainable benefits by requiring the minimum amount of material to produce one item at a time. SHIMA SEIKI intends to gain even more interest with its new SWG-XR® flagship machine. SWG-XR® features the company's original SlideNeedle™on 4 needle beds for high quality production of WHOLEGARMENT® products using all needles, in addition to a re-designed sinker system and a compact, light-weight carriage featuring 4 systems as well as auto yarn carriers. All contribute to increased productivity as well as increased product range using a wider variety of yarn for supporting knits for all seasons, and higher quality for knitting beautiful fabrics and silhouettes; even items that were impossible to knit before, including punch-lace patterns, variable stitch knitting and intarsia knitting. Setting new standards for the next generation of waste-free, sustainable WHOLEGARMENT® knitting, SWG-XR® at ITM will be shown in 15L. The MACH2®XS WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine, also with original SlideNeedle™ on four needle beds, will be shown in 8L. Other WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machines include the MACH2®VS V-bed machine for producing WHOLEGARMENT® items using every other needle, shown in 8 and 18 gauges, as well as the compact SWG®091N2 for producing smaller WHOLEGARMENT® items and accessories, to be shown in 10 gauge. An economical proposal in V-bed WHOLEGARMENT® knitting will also be introduced in the form of the N.SVR®183 machine in 24 gauge.

SHIMA SEIKI’s technology in computerized shaped knitting is represented by its N.SVR®122 computerized flat knitting machine in 14 gauge, and features such innovations as the R2CARRIAGE®, WideGauge® knitting, spring-type moveable sinkers, DSCS® Digital Stitch Control System, stitch presser, yarn gripper and cutter, and takedown comb. Also on display will be the SCG®122SN coarse gauge machine in 3 gauge. Automatic seamless glove knitting machines will also be present, including the SFG®20 21-gauge machine, and SFG®-I in 10 gauge.

On the software side, demonstrations will be performed on SHIMA SEIKI’s SDS®-ONE APEX4 design system and APEXFiz® subscription-based design software. Each provides comprehensive support throughout the production supply chain, integrating production into one smooth and efficient workflow from yarn development, product planning and design, to production and even sales promotion. Especially effective is the way the design evaluation process is improved with ultra-realistic simulation capability, whereby virtual samples replace physical sampling, consequently reducing time, cost and material that otherwise go to waste. Digital prototyping using virtual samples on SDS®-ONE APEX4 and APEXFiz® help to digitally transform the fashion supply chain for realizing sustainable manufacturing. SHIMA KnitManager™ knit production management software will also be shown to demonstrate solutions for maximizing productivity through monitoring of machine status and production progress.

Every day, technical service experts from Trützschler visit customers around the globe. Now the company adds another location to their list: the virtual space, called Digital Start-Up. Digital Start-Up is a special service that helps customers get maximum value from Trützschler’s digital solutions. From personalized configurations through to analyzing data and optimizing production processes in real time, Digital Start-Up supports yarn production processes.

Digital Start-Up offers:

• Guided onboarding for all-in-one platform My Trützschler including My Mill, Training, Shop and more.
• On-site training for all machines and services.
• Digital audits that combine online and on-site guidance, training and troubleshooting

The My Trützschler platform provides access to the digital Trützschler world, with insights from digital services including My Mill Training, Shop and My Wires. The My Identity tool ensures safe access on any device, anywhere – and it saves time with single sign-on authentication.

Supported by the European Commission, EURATEX and industriAll Europe have launched Stitch Together: a new Europe-wide two-year project to promote social partnerships in the European textiles and clothing Industry.

Stitch Together recognises the industry's need to adapt to global competition, eco-friendly practices, and technological advancements, while ensuring decent working conditions and quality social dialogue. The project will foster constructive dialogue between employer and trade unions in seven countries: Belgium, France, Italy, Poland, Portugal, Spain and Türkiye. Through seminars and capacity-building workshops, the project aims to enhance the capacity of social partners and empower them to engage in national and European-level social dialogues. Furthermore, the project seeks to increase social partner involvement in EU policy-making contributing to the development of sustainable and circular practices in the industry.

Breaking new ground in plastics recycling means assessing the value chain from end to end. The big opportunities for the future are in fine-tuning the individual process steps; from the collection of recyclable materials to the recycling process and the end product. This is where the cooperation of Lindner and the EREMA Group comes in, officially launched following the 50/50 founding of the holding BLUEONE Solutions in August 2023 to which shares of Lindner Washtech were contributed. The expertise of EREMA, a manufacturer of extruders and filtration solutions for plastics recycling and the largest company within the EREMA Group, has now been combined with the expert know-how from Lindner Washtech, a leading provider of all-in-one solutions for shredding, sorting and washing plastic feed materials.

Data transfer ensures more efficient recycling processes
Process control is an especially important aspect of plastics recycling, which is why standardising the process control system was what the two companies focused on first. "Together, we have developed a platform that allows data to be exchanged between the extruder and the washing system," says Manfred Hackl, CEO of the EREMA Group at IFAT in Munich. "This enables us to analyse the data more precisely so that effective improvement measures can be deduced." All key parameters are taken into account and monitored via a digital interface. For example, it is possible to use information relating to the current throughput of the EREMA Pre Conditioning Unit to optimise the washing process as soon as possible so that it can compensate for fluctuations in capacity and achieve a significant increase in output. This data transfer represents a new step on the roadmap to digitalization.

High efficiency due to smart energy management
"To ensure sustainable recycling, it is necessary to find the right process for each application and to make sure that the individual process steps are perfectly coordinated," emphasizes Michael Lackner, Managing Director of Lindner. Coordinating the process steps has already achieved initial success in energy management, and a clear example of this is heat recovery. "We use the latent heat generated during the extrusion process as an energy source for the washing and drying process," explains Lackner. "This enables our customers to sustainably reduce their energy costs and carbon emissions".

Making the most of synergies along the value chain
Synergies need to be used to establish the quality standards specified for each end application. "The key question is how we can improve the end product and increase the overall efficiency of the recycling process at the same time," agree Manfred Hackl and Michael Lackner. This will only work if companies work together along the value chain. The industry leaders can already point to several examples where together they have improved recycling processes and made it possible to move away from downcycling. "An example of this is the recycling loop of HDPE starting material, which is processed into high-quality, food-safe rHDPE pellets using our two technologies," says Lackner. Lindner Washtech and EREMA continue to work intensively together to develop strategies for upcycling plastics and increase recycling rates.

TrusTrace, a global SaaS company with a market-leading platform for supply chain traceability and compliance in fashion and retail, announced the launch of its third playbook entitled, “Unlocking DPP: The Why, What and How of Digital Product Passports.”

Unveiled at the Global Fashion Summit in Copenhagen, the playbook offers a guide for fashion industry professionals grappling with the data collection and implementation of the widely anticipated Digital Product Passport, which will come into force in the European Union between 2026-2030. The book busts some common myths and misconceptions about the DPP, and offers a data protocol for brands to follow to start collecting DPP data and setting up their digital systems for DPP implementation.

The guide, which has been authored by journalist Brooke Roberts-Islam, opens with ‘The Why’ of the DPP, breaking down the complex set of incoming EU legislation, and explaining why DPP is an essential tool for achieving the EU’s legally-binding commitment to reach net-zero greenhouse gas emissions by 2050. The guide highlights the significant data gaps and how the DPP will address these by collecting and sharing circularity data.

‘The What’ section explains the three core components of the DPP: product data, unique identifiers and the required interoperable IT system (for decentralized data sharing). This section also offers a breakdown of who and what is in scope, along with the required data systems. ‘The When’ offers all brands an essential overview of the DPP timeline and requirements for textile products under the ESPR.

‘The How’ provides brands with the essential steps to successfully collect data and implement a DPP scheme. The insights in this chapter are derived from the Trace4Value project, a live DPP pilot led by TrusTrace to test an end-to-end DPP data and system infrastructure for textile products entering the EU market. The pilot cohort embedded DPP carriers with live data into selected Kappahl and Marimekko products, which launched on the market in early 2024.

ITM, to be held in Istanbul at the beginning of June, will once again see a strong participation of VDMA member companies. Almost 90 exhibitors from Germany will exhibit at the trade fair, most of whom are members of the VDMA. In addition to the VDMA member companies exhibiting with their own booth, numerous VDMA members will be represented in Istanbul via agents. They cover nearly all different machinery chapters with a focus on spinning, nonwovens, weaving, knitting, warp knitting and finishing.

In Istanbul, the VDMA members will show their latest innovations. In technological terms, significant trends are digitalisation and automation. These themes have been present for some time but will continue to play a central role in meeting the challenges for many years to come. Another trend that has also been around for a while is sustainability. Today it is much more than a buzzword: Efficiency in energy, raw materials or water as well as recycling are not feel-good issues but have a real economic and social background.

For the textile machinery manufacturers organised in the VDMA, Turkey is a major trading partner. In 2023, textile machinery and accessories worth approximately 350 million euros were exported from Germany to Turkey, which made Turkey the second biggest sales market for German companies. After three years in which China was the most important supplier of textile machinery to Turkey, Germany has now regained this top position.

Turkey is at the doorstep of Europe, which gives Turkish textile producers a powerful geographic advantage over Asian sourcing destinations. The textile companies in the region have a deep experience and know-how in making the highest quality textile and apparel for leading markets of Europe and employs a young, dynamic, and well-educated workforce.

But ITM is not just a place for visitors from Turkey, as Dr. Harald Weber, Managing Director of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association explains: “It should not be forgotten that ITM not only attracts visitors from Turkey, but also from the Middle East, Central Asia and North Africa. Turkey's proximity to the European Union and its fully integrated textile value chain also make it interesting in terms of the EU's strategy for sustainable and circular textiles and the increasing importance of recycling in the future.”

Trützschler Nonwovens will participate in the ANEX 2024 exhibition (May 22 to 24, 2024 in Taipei, Taiwan). Attendees will be able to explore sustainable nonwoven solutions tailored for flushable wipes with the pulp-based CP and WLS lines, as well as other cutting-edge offerings such as the needle-punched line T-SUPREMA for technical nonwovens.