From the Sector

"Veritas", the trend book for the Spring-Summer 2025 season, looks at a world where each individual defends "their" truth. Gone are the days of tribal fashion... To be discovered at the Parc des Expositions, Porte de Versailles, from 5 to 7 February 2024.

After exploring a world where the senses are once again at the centre, Louis Gérin and Grégory Lamaud, the artistic directors of Texworld Evolution Paris, offer a more personal interpretation of this future humanity. Our wardrobes reflect our individual levels of commitment to the "truth". Faced with the modern paradox of growth versus sustainability, each of us expresses our own vision of the world. These points of view are reflected in the four themes of this new trend book.

Creative themes imagined with AI
Based on the analysis of emerging signals detected in the artistic, economic and social fields, these approaches incorporate elements of artificial intelligence for the first time. The artistic directors have incorporated them - by identifying them - into the 'pattern design' boards that bring together the colours and silhouettes used for each creative universe.

#1 Belief. This theme, which isn't very assertive and is rather introverted, expresses itself with elegance and discretion. The colour temperatures remain calm, in the background. The colour universe is oriented towards more "conservative", mineral shades, dominated by green and blue. The textures express matter and vibrations.  

#2 Immanence. While this proposal remains conservative and mystical, it is more visible than the previous one. It expresses a more talkative "bohemianchic" universe, asserting its point of view through a relatively cynical approach: "these are the new rules of our common life. You have to live with them". The colour range is expressive and warmer, but remains fairly classic. It is expressed more in knitwear or embroidery, materials with relief or a frosted appearance.

#3 Knowledge. This is all about affirming yourself. This theme, which also draws on classic sources of inspiration - nature, plants, flowers - sets out to transform them radically. The colours are strong, contrasting, in opposition, and are applied to materials that express the future, with crumpled, liquid or transparent textures.

#4 Experience. This is the most committed theme in the field of subjective truths. "Trust only yourself. [...] Don't believe. Test [...] trust no one. Learn from your own experience". The colours are very bold: we wear them to attract attention. Acidic, sweet shades are king, as are materials that evoke urban or sporty codes: rips, shiny aspects, organic (second-skin type), but also lace and transparency.
 
All these worlds will be showcased in two Trend Forums: one at Texworld Paris for fabrics, the other at Apparel Sourcing Paris for finished products (a new feature in February 2024). Visitors will be able to discover looks inspired by the fabrics and products selected by the show's art directors. There will also be new areas with samples to illustrate each of these themes: Highlights Texworld, Highlight Apparel Sourcing, Highlights Elite and Highlights Denim.

During its first General Assembly, 18 European companies and organisations have formally joined ReHubs. They represent different segments of the circular textile value chain and share a common commitment to invest in textile recycling capacity in Europe. Additional partners are expected in the near future.

Current ReHubs partners are BASF, Boer Group, Coleo, Concordia Textiles, Decathlon, EURATEX, Gherzi Textil Organisation, Inditex, Indorama Ventures, Mango, PEPPER-i2, Purfi, Ratti, Recover, Refashion, Resortecs, Rester, RETEX.GREEN and TEXAID.

All partners will support ReHubs Executive Director, Chris Deloof, to kick start activities in the coming months. ReHubs partners will elaborate together on further steps and activities for the forthcoming work plan and the development of the European Textile Recycling Roadmap.

Chris Deloof commented: “I am delighted to see such a strong group of organisations teaming up with ReHubs. They are a great example of how to establish a new circular textile value chain in Europe. We need to focus now on rolling out ReHubs investment projects and further expanding our partners and investors network.”

The Trevira CS® brand will be presenting itself with 17 customers and partners as well as an innovative special exhibition at Heimtextil, which takes place in Frankfurt from January 9 to 12, 2024.

Trevira CS customers and partners will be exhibiting their flame retardant products and new collections for the home textiles and contract market at individual stands on the joint booth. Visitors can discover innovations in the areas of yarn production, woven and knitted fabrics and interior solar shading. The exhibitors at the Trevira CS stand will represent all textile applications with their products, from lightweight curtains to heavy upholstery fabrics. In addition to the yarn and fabric manufacturers, one exhibit is dedicated to presenting a traditional craft at the Trevira CS joint stand. The trimming maker Jende Manufaktur will be demonstrating the manufacture of trimmings from flame retardant, UV-stable, spun-dyed Trevira® yarns as well as from materials from the co-exhibiting yarn manufacturers.

The following Trevira CS customers and partners will be exhibiting a wide variety of flame retardant products at the joint stand in January:
Casalegno Tendaggi S.r.l., Chamatex SAS, F.lli Baroni s.r.l., FIDIVI Tessitura Vergnano S.p.A., Hoftex Färberei GmbH, Ilcat by Lei Tsu s.r.l., Jende Manufaktur GbR, Lodetex S.p.A., Mattes & Ammann GmbH & Co. KG, Mottura S.p.A., Pozzi Arturo S.p.A., PUGI R.G. S.R.L., Tessitura Mario Ghioldi & C. s.r.l., Tintoria Sala s.r.l., Torcitura Fibre Sintetiche S.p.A., Torcitura Padana S.p.A. and Wintex S.r.l..

The Trevira CS special showcase 2024 will be held under the motto #treviracsCore. The term "core" means core element / heart and is used in conjunction with a hashtag and another defining term in the digital media for a trend / lifestyle that people feel connected to and follow.

This time, the special show is about demonstrating what Trevira CS fabrics are capable of achieving in addition to their functionality and performance in the design of textile spaces. From a sustainably furnished lounge, to a luxurious interior or a casual outdoor area, to a cozy retreat.

For the design of the special show, all Trevira CS customers were invited to submit their latest Trevira CS products as part of the annual Trevira CS fabric competition. A total of well over 200 articles from more than 50 customers were available. This year's special show will also feature trimmings made from Trevira CS yarns.

Faster and more cost-effective carbon fibre production - the technology of the start-up CarboScreen comes a good deal closer to this dream. The founders Dr. Musa Akdere, Felix Pohlkemper and Tim Röding from the Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) of RWTH Aachen University are using sensor technology to monitor carbon fibre production, thereby doubling the production speed from the current 15 to 30 m/min in the medium term and increasing turnover by up to €37.5 million per year and system. This ground-breaking development also impressed the jury at the ITMF at their Annual Conference in Keqiao, China, and was honoured with the ITMF StartUp Award 2023 on 6 November 2023.

Dr. Musa Akdere accepted the award on behalf of the CarboScreen founding team.

Carbon fibres can only develop their full potential if they are not damaged during production and further processing. Two types of fibre damage occur more frequently during fibre production: Superficial or mechanical damage to the fibres or damage to the chemical structure.

Both types of damage cannot be optimally detected by current means or only become apparent after production, to name just two examples. This leads to higher production costs. In an emergency, faulty production can even lead to plant fires. For this reason, and to ensure good production quality, the system is run at 15 m/min below its production capacity for safety reasons. However, 30 m/min or more would be possible. With the sensor-based online monitoring of CarboScreen, the production capacity can be doubled to 30 /min. This would lead to higher production, resulting in lower manufacturing costs and wider use of carbon fibres in mass markets such as automotive, aerospace and wind energy.

In a world where water-repellent textiles play an important role in various industries, Pulcra Chemicals has joined forces with its subsidiary, Devan Chemicals, to introduce DEVAN REPEL. The first product, DEVAN REPEL ONE, is a durable water repellent for Polyester and blends. The development of DEVAN REPEL ONE is a joint to Devan and Pulcra's dedication to innovation and sustainability.

The solution offers a range of benefits:

• Superior Performance: The technology offers outstanding water repellency performance, ensuring that textiles remain dry. Whether it's rain and outdoor wear, outdoor furnishing, shower curtains or multiple technical textiles, the new solution can handle it, making it a strong choice for industries where water resistance is paramount.
• Flexibility: The versatility of this technology can be applied to a wide range of materials, with especially good results on polyester and its blends, offering flexibility for various applications across industries.
• Enhanced Sustainability: This technology is free from perfluorinated compounds (PFCs), and free from isocyanates.
• Longevity: Products treated with this water repellency technology are protecting from the elements for a longer lifespan.

Performance, particularly on effect durability, can be boosted to meet different requirements with new DEVAN EXTENDER GEN3. This extender is free of Isocyanate, Butanone-oxime and 2-dimethylpyrazole.

ITMA ASIA + CITME, Asia’s leading trade fair for textile machinery, took place in Shanghai with a considerable presence of VDMA member companies. The round about 40 exhibiting VDMA members covered nearly all different machinery chapters with a focus on spinning and manmade fibers, nonwovens, weaving, braiding, knitting & hosiery, finishing & dyeing and textile processing. They were part of a strong German presence with a total of around 60 German exhibitors – including non-machine manufacturers.

During a press conference on the first day of the show, Dr. Janpeter Horn, chairman of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association and managing director of August Herzog Maschinenfabrik expressed: “After years of cancelled or postponed trade fairs and travel restrictions, this year’s ITMA ASIA + CITME is the first edition of the show that can be attended not just by Chinese but by visitors from various countries and regions. The event is a good opportunity to meet customers and partners again in person and not just on a screen. ITMA ASIA + CITME provides a good chance to deepen the already good relations with China and other Asian countries further and to set-up new partnerships.”

Dr. Horn continued to present latest facts and figures about the German textile machinery industry. Between January and August 2023, the overall exports of textile machinery and accessories summed up to 1.7 billion euros, which was a slight decrease compared to the same period in 2022. The shipping to almost all major markets decreased between January and August: China: 440 million € (2022: 453 million €), Turkey: 205 million € (2022: 265 million €), USA: 177 million € (2022: 144 million €), India: 170 million € (2022: 228 million €).

Numerous VDMA member companies have production sites in the major Asian markets China and India and serve their customers in these countries from there. A latest VDMA business climate survey among the textile machinery companies in China showed, that 75% of all participants assessed their current business situation as either good (6%) or satisfactory (69%). For the coming quarter, 50% of the companies see the market to decline. Asked about the business situation during the next six months, 44% of the companies expect the market to remain stable, 56% expect the situation to become worse. This is also reflected in the HR of the companies: 63% expect the number of employees to remain unchanged.

Together with the German circular knitting machine builder Mayer & Cie., Groz-Beckert has developed the optimized Relanit sinker SNK F over the past years. Independently of this, the development of the new LCmax™ energy-saving needles took place. The focus of both developments is on efficiency, energy savings and increased process reliability.

Groz-Beckert offers interested machine builders different cooperation options to jointly develop new products or optimize existing ones. The Groz-Beckert Technology and Development Center (TEZ) provides the appropriate framework for so-called co-development projects. At the ITMA in Milan in June 2023, Groz-Beckert presented some of the successful cooperations under the motto "Innovation through cooperation". Among them were two new developments realized with Mayer & Cie. Groz-Beckert presented the two new products for the first time in Asia at ITMA Asia in November 2023.

Optimized Relanit sinker SNK F
At the end of 2018, circular knitting machine manufacturer Mayer & Cie. approached Groz-Beckert with a request to jointly develop an improved and more efficient sinker for selected machines of their Relanit family that would run more smoothly and reliably in the needle tricks. The innovative sinker has an integral spring with a spring force that is adapted to the sinker thickness. Field tests were consistently successful and confirmed the functionality and advantages of the new sinker.

Thanks to their adapted spring, the newly developed SNK F Relanit sinkers are securely guided while they are running through the cam track, resulting in a quieter operation. This increases process reliability and ensures an improved loop structure. In addition, wear on the swivel butts of the sinkers is reduced. This increases service life and makes the process more sustainable and cost-efficient.

Higher energy efficiency thanks to LCmax™
The objective second recent cooperation with Mayer & Cie. was to develop a cost-effective energy-saving needle. After considering various variants, the common choice of Mayer & Cie. and Groz-Beckert was the LCmax™ knitting machine needle with innovative, wave-shaped shank geometry. The first prototypes were extensively tested on laboratory machines at Groz-Beckert's TEZ.

The wave-shaped shank of the LCmax™ needle ensures a smaller contact area of the needle in the needle trick. This results in less friction, which reduces machine temperature and enables energy savings of up to 20 percent compared to a standard needle. This saves costs and at the same time allows operation of the machine at the maximum possible speed.

In both projects, the cooperation between Mayer & Cie. and Groz-Beckert went far beyond mere product development. In addition to Applications Engineering and Construction, the companies' Sales and Purchasing departments were also involved in a close exchange.

Gerade in der kalten Jahreszeit wird beim Outdoorsport Wert auf Kleidung gelegt, die Körperwärme speichert. Der Lagenlook ist hier besonders sinnvoll. Neben einem funktionalen Baselayer, der temperaturausgleichend und feuchtigkeitsleitend ist, dient die zweite Schicht, der sogenannte Midlayer, als Isolationsschicht. Je nach Kältegrad, Aktivitätsniveau und persönlichem Temperaturempfinden sind unterschiedliche Midlayer empfehlenswert.

Merinoexperte Smartwool bietet mit seinen Smartloft und Intraknit Produkten passende Midlayer für moderate bis bewegungsintensive Aktivitäten sowie für kühles bis kaltes Wetter. Sie lassen viel Bewegung zu und transportieren Schweiß ab, um den Körper auf Betriebstemperatur zu halten.  Die verantwortungsvoll gewonnene Merinowolle ist wärmend, temperaturausgleichend und gleichzeitig geruchsneutralisierend.

Die hochisolierenden, nachhaltigen Smartloft Produkte halten den Körper bei Kälte zuverlässig warm, ohne dass er zu warm wird. Die leichtgewichtige Isolation auf der Front, bestehend aus teilweise recycelter Wolle und feinen Synthetikfasern, spendet uneingeschränkte Wärme. Dehnbares und weiches Fleece aus Merinomischgewebe sorgt für Bewegungsfreiheit und Tragekomfort. Nicht nur die Wolle, auch die Kunstfaser ist zum großen Teil recycelt. Die Merinowolle ist Mulesing-frei und ZQ- zertifiziert.

Der US-amerikanische Merinospezialist Smartwool wurde 1994 von einer Gruppe Skifahrern gegründet, die einfach nur warme Füße auf der Piste haben wollten. Nach mehreren Experimenten mit verschiedenen Materialien fiel die Wahl auf Merinowolle. Als natürliches Funktionsmaterial vereint diese Wolle alle gesuchten Eigenschaften: Sie ist weich, feuchtigkeitsableitend, thermoregulierend (warm bei Kälte und kühl bei Hitze), nachhaltig, geruchsneutralisierend und trägt sich extrem gut auf der Haut. Zudem ist Merinowolle extrem langlebig, so dass alle Kleidungsstücke bedenkenlos in der Maschine gewaschen werden können.

Twice a year ISPO recognizes innovative fibers, fabrics and components that are used to manufacture sports apparel. Two innovations from Hologenix have scored wins in the ISPO Textrends Fall/Winter 2025/2026 Awards: CELLIANT® with REPREVE® Nylon, introduced with textile solutions provider UNIFI®, makers of REPREVE®, and CELLIANT® Print. They were both Selections in the Fibers & Insulations Category.

CELLIANT with REPREVE Nylon
CELLIANT with REPREVE Nylon consists of CELLIANT infrared (IR) technology embedded into REPREVE. REPREVE creates high-quality fibers made from 100% recycled materials, including post-consumer plastic bottles and preconsumer waste. CELLIANT with REPREVE Nylon is strong and durable with great stretch and a silky hand. It is ideal for underwear, stockings, tights/leggings, socks, seamless knits, baselayers and many other categories. With CELLIANT’s ability to convert body heat into infrared energy, improving local circulation and cellular oxygenation, it also provides performance for outdoor/sportswear, outerwear, swimwear among other categories. This is the second carrier type for CELLIANT with REPREVE, as it was introduced in polyester last fall and won three awards.

CELLIANT Print
CELLIANT Print makes the natural blend of IR-generating bioceramic minerals more widely available from Hologenix as a printed coating, expanding the uses of the technology. Traditionally, CELLIANT has been embedded directly into fibers, yarns and fabrics. However, for its print applications, CELLIANT fine mineral powder can be adhered to many different fabric types as a topical coating, making CELLIANT Print a versatile and cost-effective solution. Key CELLIANT partners, such as Under Armour with their UA RUSH™ line, and KT Tape with its PRO Oxygen™ kinesiology tape utilize CELLIANT Print. Safe and CELLIANT® Print CELLIANT® with REPREVE® Nylon durable, CELLIANT Print has undergone mechanical testing for wash tests and can be confirmed to last the useful life of the product, for 50+ washes.

Santoni Shanghai Knitting Machinery Co., Ltd. announces that it has received regulatory approval from Chinese authorities for its proposed acquisition of Terrot GmbH, a manufacturer of circular knitting machines in Germany.

The acquisition represents a pivotal step in Santoni's strategy to advance the circular knitting machine industry. The integration of Terrot into the Santoni ecosystem is projected to increase Santoni's production capacity and boost its market share, and in conjunction with other strategic objectives, firmly solidify Santoni's position as the leading manufacturer in the industry, with unrivaled scale, depth of innovation and expertise.

Seeking to meet rising demand for high-end circular knitting products, Santoni has pursued an Ecosystem Strategy in recent years, aiming to unify a highly fragmented industry and enhance innovation, sustainability and digitalization to more effectively meet market needs. The deployment of both parties' latest innovation practices, textile automation offerings, integrated enterprise services, C2M solutions, and a platform for designers "Materialliance", will allow Santoni Shanghai and Terrot to connect and bridge demand and offer of circular knitted products.

By incorporating Terrot's offerings, particularly in the double jersey and jacquard sector, Santoni stands to gain a competitive edge in offering machines known for their performance, low maintenance, and cost-effectiveness. Highlighting this shift is Terrot's UCC 572-T, a transfer jacquard machine for sports and leisurewear.

Following the acquisition, Terrot will continue to operate under the leadership of managing directors Robert W. Czajkowski and Dirk Lange. Santoni plans to maintain Terrot’s headquarters in Chemnitz, Germany, along with its facilities, brands, and practices.