From the Sector

This season, adidas Originals returns with the next installment of its “Always Original” initiative. First assembled in 2021 to pay homage to the multifaceted identities of women and non-binary folks, the “Always Original Collective” takes centre stage again, as the brand with the Three Stripes turns its focus to representing allyship in originality with a new collection and campaign made to fit every story.

The drop one offering has been designed for everyone – no matter their size, shape, gender, or style. Celebrating all forms of originality each piece is available in an extended size run and boasts lace constructions that are as versatile as the moves of those the collection was designed for. Created to allow everyone to express their individuality, the garments on offer reimagine adidas’ sporting history for a new generation of changemakers while the footwear selection features updated takes on the Forum Low and the Astir W silhouettes.

Launching alongside the main Fall/Winter 2022 drop one selection is an expressive capsule collection co-created directly with the “Always Original Collective”. Inspired by each member’s interpretation of two key words – Belonging and Community – the capsule offers a host of bold and dynamic graphic pieces.

The first seasonal drop is accompanied by the arrival of an undeniably optimistic campaign centering on four members of the collective – Jari Jones, Amani, Naomi Otsu, and Lena Waithe – and inspired by the slogan: “They’ve been here for us. Now it’s our turn.”

The campaign visuals spotlight the shops and small businesses that helped to shape the lives of each dynamic changemaker: Yu & Me Book Store, Le’Jemalik Beauty Salon, Hibiscus Brew Coffee Shop, and Savant Studios. Putting the focus on those who have been there all along, the campaign seeks to demonstrate the power of allyship in communities around the world.

ROICA™ strengthens its presence in the apparel segment thanks to its established network of partners, who will present their latest innovations at the upcoming Première Vision.

ROICA™ partners are the “artists” and “heartists” of premium stretch in fabrics: because they have at heart all the values for which ROICA™ stands for. These partners presenting at Première Vision are:

• Iluna Group, whose journey into the new dimension of responsibility continues with developments in GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified recycled yarns aimed at unprecedented effects in looks, performance and hands. Brand new for this edition of Première Vision is the inclusion of GOTS-certified organic cotton in GRS-certified galloons and allover lace containing ROICA™ EF, so as to meet market demands for natural comfort in the underwear sphere.
• Innova Fabrics, which recently enhanced its smart offering by launching the RF (Residual Free) line, with the goal of reducing the impact of microplastics derived from the fashion industry. This is made possible by mixing two responsible ingredients, SENSIL® BioCare by Nilit and ROICA™ V550 by Asahi Kasei, which give birth to both sporty and casual fabrics.
• Inplet, which enriched its production of smart elastic and rigid knitted fabrics with three new products: a powernet fabric in 77% polyamide RECO and 23% ROICA™ EF with good recovery; a net fabric in 55% polyamide RECO and 45% ROICA™ EF characterized by a soft hand and good elasticity; and a 79% polyamide and 21% ROICA™ V550 good power, good recovery and a soft touch.
• Penn Textile Solutions/Penn Italia, whose highlights of the new collection are on one side fabrics developed with the use of Neride eco yarns by Nurel with ROICA™ V550, characterized by restraining lace effect, soft touch and breathable, in combination with tulle as a sustainable basic, and on the other side charmeuses with soft hand, raw cut in combination with a band fabric from the dreamshape family with reinforced gripping edge, made again in Neride eco yarns by Nurel with ROICA™ V550
• Tessitura Colombo Antonio, which in its new A/W 23-24 collection expands its proposal of regenerated lace from the ECO-LACE line: new designs inspired by fashion trends using ROICA™ EF. Also, in its BIODEGRADABLE line it uses ROICA™ V550 for the realization of new designs. The new MICROMODAL line uses ROICA™ V550; the effect of this lace range is softness, elegance and relief effect.

POWERFIL, a business unit of recycling machine manufacturer EREMA GmbH, presents its 2/406 laserfilter.

"For applications with a focus on melt quality and filtration fineness, this increase in screen area ensures lower pressure and temperature at the same throughput rate, allowing even finer screens to be used for even better results in quality-intensive plastics applications," explains Robert Obermayr, Head of Business Unit POWERFIL, EREMA GmbH. If the throughput capacity of the recycling plant needs to be increased, a significantly higher rate of plastic melt can be filtered while maintaining the other parameters thanks to the larger surface area of the screen. Up to 9,000 kilogrammes of melt can be filtered per hour with the Quattro version of the new LF 406 laserfilter.

"Plastic recycling has become a must-have, even for input streams with higher levels of contamination. Efficient filtration systems are therefore indispensable for achieving the specified melt quality using existing extrusion systems," says Obermayr. That is why POWERFIL also offers the proven EREMA melt filters as individual components for existing EREMA machines and third-party extrusion systems. The product range includes the SW RTF partial area backflush system and the laserfilter. The range is aimed at manufacturers as well as recyclers, because the high-performance filters can be used to process post consumer plastics as well as post industrial films with paper labels and clean PET material. Both types of filter are particularly easy to integrate into an existing recycling plant and both are available in numerous sizes and variations. Whether the customer uses the robust backflush filter or the continuous high-performance laserfilter depends on the throughput and level of contamination of the material. The Laserfilter is ideal for heavy contamination. It handles impurity levels up to 5 percent and filtration as fine as 70 μm while continuously cleaning the screen with a scraper.

POWERFIL will also present the new 2/406 laserfilter and the full range of filters at the K 2022 trade fair stand for the EREMA Group.

The story started with a huge market demand for the industrial synthesis of Indigo during the late nineteen century. The first Industrial Synthesis of Indigo, Indigo Pure BASF, was successfully manufactured and introduced into the market by BASF in July 1897. It was a significant achievement for the German Chemical Industry.

Over the years, the product has made revolutionary changes to the supply chain. New technologies enabled the transformation of Synthetic Indigo Powder application to pre-reduced DyStar® Indigo Vat 40% Solution. Being the pioneer in the market, the pre-reduced solution set an important industry milestone when it was first launched in 1998.

DyStar’s innovation remains a core catalyst in our chemistry research and development journey. When the DyStar® Indigo Vat 40% Solution was introduced, the core intelligence lies behind the benefits from Sustainability to Health and Safety. The technology transforms Indigo into its soluble Leuco form, making the Indigo dyeing process more sustainable, efficient, and stable in production. In addition, workers in Denim Mills can be assured of product safety as well.

Similarly, in recent modules under Cadira® Denim, DyStar introduced the first salt-free Indigo dyeing process in history. The applied technology completely eliminates hydrosulphite in the application of Indigo.

Premium Group and JOOR have renewed their partnership to power the SS23 PREMIUM and SEEK trade shows through JOOR’s digital platform, underpinning their belief in the power of a hybrid approach to wholesale.

From 7 - 9 July, buyers visiting the shows in Berlin will be able to learn more about and shop from exhibitors in a new hybrid way. Buyers can discover the full PREMIUM and SEEK portfolio of brands both in-person and online 24/7 by visiting JOOR Passport, JOOR's digital trade show destination.

Premium Group unites its various show locations to one cosmos for SS23 at Messe Berlin. The PREMIUM and SEEK shows will be joined by two further components— The Ground is a D2C creative platform for brands and consumers to meet, connect, and collaborate through one-of-a-kind experiences, engaging content, and innovative products, while FASHIONTECH, features masterclasses and panel discussions from the fashion industry’s most brilliant minds. A calendar of content includes deep dives into strong, successful, and sustainable strategies. As part of the content offer, JOOR will facilitate a masterclass on ‘Digital Wholesale’ and a future-looking roundtable discussion with four leading fashion brands on the FASHIONTECH stage.

Throughout the duration of the show, in-person buyers and visitors will have the ability to shop via the Premium Group mobile app. By simply scanning a brand’s corresponding QR code, visitors will link to the brand’s custom profile on JOOR Passport and be able to shop collections directly on the platform. JOOR Passport will also extend the duration of the shows by up to three months, allowing brands to continue wholesale selling digitally outside the window of the physical show.

JOOR and Premium Group’s flexible hybrid format allows visitors and brands a seamless digital and physical introduction to each other and their collections, the opportunity to connect in an efficient, effective, and longer term way, and the convenience to shop the show 24 hours a day from anywhere in the world.

Brands participating include Drykorn, Closed, Bertoni of Denmark, Veja, Ecoalf, Wrangler and Absolut Cashmere.

Denim Première Vision marks the denim ingredient brand’s return to the tradeshow scene. Under the spotlight is “Iconic by nature”, ISKO’s show concept illustrates the company’s journey of evolution led by its signature Responsible Innovation™ approach. On this occasion, ISKO launches its 2023 Collection Vol.2 with new technologies, finishes and colors, and expressing the company’s passion for a cleaner and safer planet, laying the new foundations of ISKO’s sustainable fashion revolution.

The entire 2023 Collection Vol.2 contains recycled materials, and the majority consists of R-TWO™50+ fabrics made with a minimum of 50% recycled fibers, entirely GRS certified, resulting in less use of natural resources and a reduced carbon and water footprint of up to 45% and 65% respectively. An important and responsible development of this collection is that it features denim containing recycled and/or regenerated fibers, through unique fiber technology significantly saving on resources and energy while allowing for controlled traceability along the supply chain.

The new collection features comfortable ISKO Reform™ Xp 100, allowing for a flattering fit and enhanced shape retention; ISKO Reform™ Hp, characterized by incredible holding power, granting a more streamlined and slimmer appearance; ISKO Blue Skin™, a stretch technology that works 4-ways to respond to the body’s movement like a second skin; ISKO Pop™, a patented concept that starts from the yarn, developed to give a touch of glamour with a soft cotton hand feel. Colors are key in the new collection too, with an important aspect regarding the use of mineral colors, natural dyestuffs.

Stahl, an active proponent of responsible chemistry, has published its 2021 Environment, Social, and Governance (ESG) Report. The report outlines the company’s sustainable development ambitions and its achievements over the year. It also features Stahl’s ambitious climate mitigation targets for 2030, such as the transition to more renewable feedstocks.

The 2021 Stahl ESG Report is a cornerstone of Stahl’s commitment to reporting transparently on its progress toward a more sustainable chemicals value chain. This acknowledges the important role that industry must play in tackling climate change while enabling a higher quality of life for more people. A key focal point of the new report is a progress update on Stahl’s ESG Roadmap. Introduced last year, this ten-year plan outlines the company’s ESG commitments and targets for 2023 and 2030.
 
Climate action
Stahl is focused on mitigating climate change by reducing greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions from all activities over which it has influence. This includes investing in renewable energy and process efficiencies to lower the GHG emissions caused directly by Stahl’s own operations and the energy used to power them. On this point, progress was made toward the 2023 and 2030 targets in 2021, including a reduction in Scope 1 and 2 CO2 emissions of 15%. Also covered are Stahl’s indirect value-chain impacts, for example, from the raw materials it buys. Looking beyond Stahl’s direct environmental impacts and fostering greater supply-chain transparency will be vital for tackling emissions on a wider scale.

Creating responsible chemistry, together
In 2021, advances were made regarding the company’s diversity and safety targets, which are areas of continuous improvement. Stahl is committed to ensuring a safe working environment, as well as nurturing a diverse and inclusive workplace to continuously improve employee skills.

EcoVadis Gold rating
Fostering ethical behavior through exemplary leadership and governance is key to Stahl’s ambitions. Achieving the EcoVadis Gold rating was an important milestone in this respect. This well-established award reflects the company’s ongoing commitment to supply chain transparency and working with partners to improve the sustainability of its products and operations.

Packaging not only protects the product, it is also a powerful marketing and advertising tool that influences customers’ purchasing decisions. In the upcoming episode of Sappi’s Blue Couch series, viewers will find out what is meant by “packvertising” and how brand manufacturers can best showcase their products at the point of sale.

• “Packvertising and the power of brand at the point of sale”
• Lars Scheidweiler, Head of Packaging Solutions at Sappi, and Olaf Hartmann, Managing Director of the Multisense Institute for Sensory Marketing
• Tuesday, 26 April at 10:00 (CET)

The way people make purchase decisions in the face of overwhelming choice is very complex. Subconsciously, the brain is constantly at work making judgements about sensory signals such as touch, smell and sound. To attract customer attention, manufacturers should not only pay attention to functionality when selecting packaging material, but also never lose sight of the tactile experience.

So how do brand manufacturers go about selecting the right packaging material? How can packaging trigger emotions with consumers? And what role does environmental awareness play here? Lars Scheidweiler, Head of Packaging Solutions at Sappi, and Olaf Hartmann, Managing Director of the Multisense Institute for Sensory Marketing, will discuss this in the upcoming episode of the Blue Couch Series. Among other things, Hartmann will report on an interesting experiment that illustrates the impact various surface structures have on consumer behaviour.
The “Packvertising and the power of brand at the point of sale” episode will be broadcast on 26 April.

Under the United Nations Economic Commission for Europe (UNECE) initiative to enhance transparency and traceability in the garment and footwear industry, Haelixa realizes a pilot project with Costach Cooperative and Peruvian textile company Creditex to give sustainable rural cotton producers in Peru more visibility in the value chain.

In 2019, UNECE and United Nations Centre for Trade Facilitation and Electronic Business (UN/CEFACT) have set up an initiative to drive transparency and traceability for sustainable value chains in the garment and footwear industry. The initiative is jointly implemented with the International Trade Centre (ITC) with financial support by the European Union. Haelixa is proud to be part of the group of experts that develops policy recommendations, traceability standards, and conducts projects to set traceability benchmarks. With the support of the +Cotton Project, implemented by the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) and the Brazilian Cooperation Agency (ABC) a pilot is being realized in this context to mark and trace the finest Pima cotton for Creditex directly at the gin in Piura, Peru. Haelixa’s DNA marker connects the actual lint cotton to the entry on a blockchain system provided by UNECE. The Haelixa technology ensures that the information about the product’s origin and the journey of the product along the value chain is always safely embedded into the product itself. The marked cotton will be used to make exclusive pajamas sets for Cat´s Pajamas. DNA traceability will enable the verification of the premium origin of Peruvian Pima cotton in the final garment produced using sustainable practices by family farmers associated with the Costach cooperative.

Costach is the main cooperative of cotton farmers in Peru. The cooperative consists of 5,200 family farmers in the Piura region, producing mostly extra-long fiber of Pima Cotton. Since 2017, the +Cotton project has been supporting the farmers with training on sustainable practices and has been providing technical assistance for improved markets access.

Creditex is vertically integrated from cotton ginning to fine thread, up to the production of high quality apparel for international premium brands. The company takes social responsibility and environmental stewardship very seriously and therefore makes a strong partner for this project, empowering the cotton family farmers that hold the majority of cotton production in Peru.

This collaborative and educational project showcases the use of waste as a resource and prolonging the life of the garment through color. It came to life thanks to key brands who donated items that were then transformed by Officina39’s Recycrom™ applications into a renewed head-to-toe look that was then displayed as an art installation.

What’s the Recipe for change? For Officina39 and Adriana Galijasevic’s Cocircular Lab, this question gives shape to the collaborative and educational project Circular Explorations, specially presented at Amsterdam Denim Days Festival on April 22-23.

Sharing ground values and a common view on the fashion of tomorrow, Officina39, Italian based Chemistry plus Creativity company for the textile sector, joined hands with Adriana Galijasevic’s Cocircular Lab and influential brands to celebrate the importance of an ongoing commitment towards circularity.

Several donated items – overstock, second-grade production or damaged, unsold pieces – were updated with newly developed applications made with Officina39’s Recycrom™, the one-of-a-kind, patented dyestuffs range made from textile waste. This Circular Explorations capsule is displayed at Denim Days Festival as an art installation, not only to dress people but also to get them acquainted with circularity because they are an important player in closing the loop.

The Recipe for change that emerges from this color research is based on important values and keywords:

• Consciousness – awareness of oneself and one's surroundings
• Courage – the mental or moral strength to venture, persevere, and withstand danger, fear, or difficulty.
• Creativity – the power to imagine and produce new possibilities.
• Connection – a relationship in which a person or thing is linked or associated with something else, the act or state of connecting.
• Collaboration – the act of working together for a common goal.

Combined together, they produce CHANGE, which is a driving force for a better tomorrow.

This collaborative and innovative project that addresses circularity is also in direct support of United Nations Sustainable Development Goals, in particular number 12-Responsible Consumption and Production, number 9-Industry innovation & Infrastructure and number 17-Partnership for the Goals.