From the Sector

ISKO announced the launch of bluesign® APPROVED fabrics. The only denim mill in Europe with bluesign® APPROVED fabrics, and one of the highest achievement’s in sustainability. This won honour is only awarded to those that meet the strict safety and environmental requirements of the bluesign® CRITERIA. These certified articles are made from bluesign® APPROVED chemicals and raw materials, and are manufactured with a minimum impact on people and the environment. This enables brands to provide safe products to their consumers, verified as bluesign® PRODUCT, which are sustainably produced without hazardous chemicals.

“When the goal is big, the effort is big. Choosing the right partner means taking safe steps. In this sense, I can gladly say that we will continue on our way with the bluesign® chemical followup process.” – Ebru ÖZKÜÇÜK, Head of Sustainability ISKO.

Through this partnership and certification, ISKO and bluesign® continue their vision of a textile and fashion industry with a future that focuses more attention on people and the environment, because only when both are considered can the industry truly make a positive, long-lasting impact.

Rester Oy, which is developing the plant in Paimio, recycles companies' end-of-life textiles, and Lounais-Suomen Jätehuolto Oy (LSJH), which will hire a production area at the same facility, processes households' end-of-life textiles. The plant will process 12,000 tonnes of end-of-life textiles every year, which represents about 10% of Finland’s textile waste.

The textile industry’s end-of-life textile problem is intolerable. Natural resources are increasingly used to manufacture products, but these materials are lost at the end of their life cycle. About 100 million kilograms of textile waste are generated annually in Finland alone. Reusing this material could reduce the textile industry’s carbon footprint and significantly reduce the use of natural resources.

Rester Oy and LSJH will drive the textile sector towards a circular economy and begin processing textile waste as an industrial raw material. The Nordic countries’ first industrial end-of-textile refinement plant will open in Paimio in 2021. The 3,000-square-metre plant is being developed by Rester Oy, which recycles companies' end-of-life textiles and industrial waste materials. LSJH, which processes households’ end-of-life textiles on its production line, will hire part of the plant.

Outi Luukko, Rester Oy’s board chair, says, “The processing plant will begin a new era of textile circular economy in Finland. As industry pioneers, we are launching a system change in Scandinavia. The transition of the textile industry from a linear model to a circular economy is essential, as virgin materials cannot sustain the current structure of the textile industry. And why should it, when there is so much recyclable material available?”

From the perspective of Rester Oy’s main owner, work clothing supplier Touchpoint, the circular economy plant not only represents resource efficiency, but is also necessary from the perspective of the entire life cycle of a responsible work clothing collection.

Luukko adds, “Finding a local solution to a global problem is a huge leap in the right direction and raises Finland's profile as a pioneer of circular economy."

The future plant will be able to process 12,000 tonnes of end-of-life textiles annually, which represents about 10% of Finland’s textile waste. Both production lines produce recycled fibre, which can be used for various industrial applications, including yarn and fabric, insulating materials for construction and shipping industries, acoustic panels, composites, non-woven and filter materials, and other technical textiles, such as geo-textiles.

LSJH is piloting a full-scale refinement plant

LSJH has launched a pilot production line for processing households' end-of-life textiles. Unfortunately, consumers' end-of-life textiles are heterogeneous, making them a challenging raw material for further processing. Before processing, the textiles are sorted by material into various fibre classes using optical identification technology developed by LSJH and its partners. This ensures the quality of the raw material and the resulting fibre products.

Jukka Heikkilä, managing director for Lounais-Suomen Jätehuolto, explains: “On the basis of the experiences gathered from the pilot project, Lounais-Suomen Jätehuolto is preparing a full-scale refinement plant in the Turku region. As soon as 2023, the plant will process Finnish households' end-of-life textiles. The project involves all waste treatment plants owned by Finnish municipalities.”

Paimio has ambitious goals for circular economy companies

Rester’s initiative aims to create a circular economy cluster in Paimio that combines the processing and reuse of end-of-life textile fibres. Paimion Kehitys Oy, which is owned by the City of Paimio and the local association of enterprises, supports the development of circular economy companies in Paimio.

Mika Ingi, managing director for Paimion Kehitys Oy, says, “We want to step out of our traditional municipal role and create significant added value for everyone taking part. That is why we are involved in the development of a new modern service model based on ecosystem thinking. We are piloting the textile cluster, followed in the coming years by clusters focusing on plastic, construction, and energy. The aim of our service is to support and help develop new profitable business by bringing circular economy companies and their potential customers to innovate together."

The foundation stone of the processing plant was laid today (18 August 2020). The processing plant will begin operations in February 2021.

• ISKO and Bluesign announce their partnership for the creation of a cleaner, safer, and transparent world of denim. ISKO just released its landmark
• Sustainability Report, setting the target of achieving bluesign® APPROVED accreditation by the end of 2020.

Denim is a timeless staple in wardrobes around the world. ISKO, the leading denim ingredient brand, and Bluesign, the architects of a sustainable and responsible textile supply chain, are joining forces in a partnership. Alliances like this are the source of effective improvements.

ISKO has a long-standing commitment to ensure the integrity of its ingredients and the traceability of the fibers and materials used in its denim apparel. By releasing the Sustainability Report, ISKO again demonstrates its commitment to creating and designing denim apparel that has a positive connection with the planet. In this report, a primary target of ISKO is to achieve bluesign® APPROVED accreditation for its denim textiles, attaining the strictest industry standard for consumers and environment alike.

With the goal of completing this process by the end of 2020, the company has already performed bluesign® COMPANY ASSESSMENT at an above-average level. This shows how ISKO anticipates changes rather than simply reacting to legal or stakeholder requirements, pursuing an approach that has a huge potential and includes several actions for further improvements. Through this partnership, ISKO and Bluesign continue the movement of the textile and fashion industry into a future that pays more attention to people and the environment, because only when both are considered can the industry truly make a positive long-lasting impact.

“ISKO, as the soul of jeans, has a vision for denim that is creative in design and innovative in the use of technologies. These distinct qualities in combination with a determined commitment to a sustainable supply chain makes ISKO a true leader in the textile industry. We look forward to the next impactful steps we will take together.” Jill Dumain, CEO, bluesign technologies. “As the leader of this industry, we feel it is our responsibility to be and act as a force for good. We have always prioritized transparency and accountability, highly valuing every improvement that can be achieved by sharing values and goals through partnerships. This one makes us particularly proud, as it raises the bar of our efforts and challenges us to maintain our improvement efforts.” Ebru Ozkucuk Guler, Senior Sustainability & CSR Executive.

Leading fashion and textile industry training centre offers UK professionals hands-on experience with 3D digital design tools
 
EFI™ Optitex®, Electronics For Imaging's global provider of integrated end-to-end 2D & 3D CAD/CAM software solutions for the fashion and apparel industry, today announced its partnership with Fashion Enter Ltd. (FEL), a UK training and technical skills development centre for the fashion and textile industry. FEL has implemented EFI Optitex 3D solutions into its course curriculum.
 
Established in 2006, London-based FEL is a veritable "all-in-one" technology hub for the fashion and textile industry, offering multiple training and technical skills development services encompassing the entire design to production cycle. A not for profit, social enterprise, FEL also provides apprenticeships and adult learning through an Educational Skills and Finding Agency- and Social Enterprise London-approved technical centre supported by Haringey Council, Mayor's Good Growth Fund and online fashion retailer ASOS®.
 
To help lay the foundation for the UK's fashion and textile industry on its imminent journey towards digital transformation, FEL was determined to close the mounting skills gap in both industry and academia and offer UK professionals hands-on experience and exposure to 3D digital design tools. With a keen understanding of the market's growing need for speed, flexibility and shifting demands, in September 2019, FEL selected EFI Optitex as its 3D technology partner. FEL sought advanced 3D solutions that would enable innovative digital design courses, apprenticeships and bespoke training, including collaboration with leading fashion retailers such as Marks & Spencer®, ASOS, Next®, and many others.
 
After a short but highly intensive training period FEL implemented EFI Optitex 3D into its design and production processes, including pattern design and 3D tools for design and fitting. Since the recent implementation, FEL has already reaped the benefits of EFI Optitex 3D fully digital design, from sampling and grading, through to production. During a preliminary implementation phase, EFI Optitex 3D will enable FEL to deliver a wide range of accredited 3D design courses and forge collaborations with new customers, a result of EFI Optitex 3D's intuitive design tools, ease of use, and time and resource savings.

Bemberg™ gears up for Première Vision - February 11th-13th, Paris, France; with a great deal of novelties and a key statement on sustainability: Let’s Make it Circular! That’s why the Japanese brand of regenerated cellulose fibers joins the fair with two booths, one in the yarn-focused sector – Hall 6 C52 6D53 – the other one in the Smart Creation area, the curated district showcasing cutting-edge sustainable innovation for the textile and fashion business. Hall3 S14.

“We simply could not miss out on the Smart Creation Area as sustainability is the founding pillar of our company,” says SHUNSUKE SATO, sales manager of Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei. “Indeed, the smart fiber is made from a cotton linter which is pre-consumer material, a natural derived source, that doesn’t deplete forestry resources. The strategy beyond our double presence is to highlight our deep commitment to responsible innovation to a larger target of professionals.”

Let’s take it circular! is the motto at the Smart Creation booth. The lifespan of Bemberg™’s regenerated cellulose fiber derived from cotton is fully circular: from the source to manufacturing. The whole sustainable closed-loop process is supported by the LCA study, signed by ICEA and validated by Paolo Masoni. Recyclability is granted by the Global Recycle Standard - GRS certification by the renown Textile Exchange. An influential guarantee that involves the whole production process and supply chain behind the company’s smart yarns. Bemberg™ yarns are entirely biodegradable and ecotoxicity-free – meaning that at the end of their life circle they break down into the environment leaving no trace in terms of toxic substances as attested by the Innovhub-SSI report.

On show at Première Vision some of the most recent collaborations with GRS-certified partners such as FIVEOL, SMI TESSUTI, TESSITURA UBOLDI, INFINITY, SIDONIOS, MATIAS & ARAUJO, TINTEX, IPEKER, EKOTEN, for fashion fabrics as well as PEZZETTI and BRUNELLO & G.CRESPI from lining partners.

The first Bemberg™ partner to present a commercial collection enriched by Velutine™ Evo is the Portuguese Matias & Araújo. With an innovative spirit, dynamism and a determined entrepreneurial spirit, the company is a leading knitwear producer for the textile industry.

In the Hall 6 Bemberg™ displays key commercial items developed by premium brands such as CAALO that is making its mark in the outerwear market with its Sustainably produced Functional-Luxury proposal. For SS20, CAALO utilized Bemberg™ lining because of the sustainability properties and it's unique colour.

CAALO looks to utilize as much eco-friendly and sustainable materials as possible without compromising on design or quality. This Bemberg™ lining was a perfect fit.

Farbenfroh und frisch startet der hawaiianische Schuhhersteller OluKai in den Frühling. Für den richtigen Aloha-Vibe sorgen die neuen Damenschuhe Pehuea Li und Pehuea Humu Lau. Während sich die Vegetation auf den hawaiianischen Inseln mit Macht auf den farbenprächtigen Sommer einstellt, präsentiert der Schuhspezialist Damenschuhe für die warmen Tage.

So angenehm wie eine frische Brise in der Hitze: Der Pehuea Li (UVP 100 Euro) ist ein Sommer-Sneaker! Er punktet auf den ersten Blick mit lässiger Optik, aber auch seine inneren Werte überzeugen: Das leichte und atmungsaktive Mesh-Obermaterial bringt Luft an den Fuß und sorgt für ein angenehmes Klima und besonderen Tragekomfort.
 
Auf Hawaii wird es nie richtig kalt – aber einen Winter gibt es auch dort. Wenn im Frühjahr die Temperaturen steigen, erblühen die Inseln. Hibiskus, Eukalyptus oder Plumeria – OluKai zaubert die heimische Flora auf einen ganz besonderen Schuh. Die Farben und detaillierten Stickereien des Pehuea Humu Lau (UVP 100 Euro) sind von der Blütenpracht Hawaiis inspiriert.
 
Beide Modelle sind mit herausnehmbaren sowie waschbaren Einlegesohlen ausgestattet. Ihre anatomisch geformten Fußbetten sorgen für Dämpfung und bringen ungeahnten Tragekomfort. Pehuea Li und Pehuea Humu Lau verfügen über den OluKai-eigenem Drop-In-Heel®: Ihre Fersen lassen sich umklappen und verwandeln den Sneaker bzw. Slip-On fix in offene Slipper.

Ein Teil des Erlöses für diese Schuhe kommt der Ama OluKai Foundation zugute. Die von Olukai gegründete Stiftung hat es sich zum Ziel gemacht, das kulturelle Erbe von Hawaii zu bewahren und fördert unterschiedliche Projekte und Vereine auf Hawaii. Jedes Paar Pehuea Li und Pehuea Humu Lau gibt so etwas an die Insel und ihre Bewohner zurück.

From 3-5 July BRIGHT welcomes big names, young talents and influential media from the skateboarding community, to share old tales and tell exciting new stories. From b2b2c: the whole skate universe is invited to explore the latest streetwear, hero brands, entertaining skate action and the energy of a big 3-day celebration – all for the love of skateboarding. Here‘s a round-up:

ADIDAS SKATEBOARDING X SKATEDELUXE
To celebrate the blending of culture and community, this summer adidas Skateboarding and Skatedeluxe are joining forces. At BRIGHT the collaboration will be celebrated on a specifically designed street course open to the public! The whole community is invited to experience the latest product release surrounded by special activities such as skate sessions at the skate course, art installations and brand experiences.

SUPPORT THE SKATE COMMUNITY WITH LONG LIVE SOUTHBANK
BRIGHT is more than happy to welcome LLSB with an incredible exhibition from Southbank‘s five decades of history, with pieces of art donated to the campaign by the likes of the Gonz, Ed Templeton, Pontus and many more expected.

LLSB is a community group set up to campaign for the world-famous Southbank Skate Spot in the centre of London, UK. Having saved the space from destruction in 2014, LLSB is now fundraising €900,000 to restore legendary sections of the space special to skateboarders around the world.

HANDS ON WITH NATIVE TEENAGE STUDIO
Contemporary culture cannot exist solely through the sharing go digital “lifestyles”: in collaboration with Berlin-based photographer Johannes Böttge‘s own project NATIVE TEENAGE and contributors from the art, music and photography scene, NATIVE TEENAGE STUDIO showcases an all-day workshop format (3-5 July) at BRIGHT’s b2c area. While it focuses on transforming a broad spectrum of visual stimulation, information and communication into physical space, it aims to bridge gaps in generations and groups, translating them into curiosities.

EMPOWERING WOMEN IN SKATEBOARDING
Meet Clara Knör & Laura Kaczmarek who will exhibit their latest work at BRIGHT!

DC X BRIGHT OPENING PARTY
DC Shoes proudly presents BRIGHT´s official Opening Party at Wilde Renate. Including highly entertaining skate action by global heads and local top dogs. Supported by notorious hip-hop DJs, a sizzling BBQ, cold beers and drinks, bright sunshine and – of course – the guests themselves, who are in town during Berlin Fashion Week – you and your friends are invited! 3 JULY | 5:30 PM | WILDE RENATE

RIDE HIGH WITH IRIEDAILY
The winner takes it all with a juicy cash reward, at the contest for the highest wallride brought to you by Berlin‘s own IRIEDAILY. Free booze and fun for free minds.

CPH OPEN VIBE
CPH Open is taking the show on the road – to Berlin! CPH-BER is going down this August, and to heat the city up a bit, CPH Open is spreading the vibes at BRIGHT – you’re invited!

• Lectra – ESCP Europe ‘Fashion & Technology’ Chair round-table event hears panelists emphasize the need for fashion companies to embrace Industry 4.0.

Paris, February 27, 2018 – Lectra, the technological partner for companies using fabrics and leather, the French business school ESCP Europe and their joint ‘Fashion & Technology’ Chair explored the impact of Industry 4.0 on fashion’s value chain during a recent insightful round table discussion at ESCP Europe’s London campus.
For the participants Robert Diamond, Founder and CEO, Fernbrook Partners; Dan Hartley, Global Head of Digital Commerce, AllSaints; Laëtitia Hugé, Vice-President, Product Marketing, Lectra; Pierre Mercier, Senior Partner and Managing Director, Boston Consulting Group; and Evelthon Vassilou, CEO, Alison Hayes, there was consensus. Industry 4.0 represents unparalleled opportunities to take the fashion industry forward.

From brand to manufacturer, panelists from across the value chain emphasized the necessity for the industry to embrace the alliance between man and machines to leverage massive benefits, from quicker decision-making to cost-reduction.
Exploring the advantages of Industry 4.0 technology, Evelthon Vassilou commented: “Interpreting the data of what is, and isn’t, selling should help to speed up decisions. You can react very quickly across the entire supply chain, and either stop producing something unsuccessful or ramp up production if successful. Data and data analytics is not sufficient, to succeed this also requires a high degree of trust and integration between retailers and suppliers.”

“It’s about using technology to deliver continuous improvement in everyday business,” said Robert Diamond. “People are not good at making a large volume of repeatable decisions with many different data inputs”. Identifying where machines, and where people, bring value is an important part of embracing Industry 4.0. “If the business decision, or the outcome of the resolution tomorrow, is pretty much the same as what happened yesterday, then there is a chance for machine learning to help improve the situation.”
For Pierre Mercier, technology propelled by Industry 4.0 is disrupting former sources of competitive advantage, “forcing companies to rethink how they want to compete in their respective industries, and how to use data to compete differently. The common denominator in the fashion ecosystem is that everyone is facing the opportunity for a step change and need to figure out where to double down and accelerate their transformation.”

“Agility and flexibility are increasingly important for fashion players. Cutting-edge technology is supporting the fashion industry as it steps into the 4.0 era, ensuring businesses have the right solutions in their own ecosystems, to effectively harness the right data to make the right decisions,” stated Laëtitia Hugé.

At UK fashion brand AllSaints, valuable data harnessed from the net promoter score is paramount for their business. “We take customer feedback very seriously and we use it as a framework for our internal roadmap - from a tech and development point of view, through to design and fit, the customer is at the heart of everything we do,” stated Dan Hartley. In addition, he underlined that using technology across communications “will be huge going forward for AllSaints. From supply chain to store teams, we aim to use a cloud-based system that works within our own eco-system, complementing our agile model.”
The round table was moderated by the co-director of Lectra-ESCP Europe ‘Fashion and Technology’ Chair Valérie Moatti.