From the Sector

"Policy makers need to consider that global dimension."
 
EURATEX released its 2023 Spring Report, which analyses latest trade flows for textiles and clothing products.

In 2022, EU trade in textiles and clothing has exceeded, for the first time in history, the €200 billion mark. This record growth of total trade is mainly due to a sharp increase of clothing imports (+36,6% in value), especially from China and Bangladesh, which outweighs Europe’s positive export performance. As a result, the EU’s trade deficit in textiles and clothing has increased to €70 billion, which is 48% higher than the year before.

Such a growing deficit is a cause for concern; the objective of the EU’s Industrial Strategy to strengthen resilience and “strategic autonomy” is not happening. Instead, the dependency has increased, and becomes critical in certain raw materials and fibres.

It also challenges the Commission’s ambition is to promote – and prevail – high quality and sustainable textile products on the Single Market – regardless where they have been produced. With imports now reaching €140 billion, it will be a challenge to effectively control the quality and compliance over these imports. Market surveillance will need to be stepped up massively, without becoming a barrier to trade.

The efforts on the EU’s export performance need to be strengthened, so as to rebalance the European trade relations with the rest of the world. EU companies are world leader in high end fashion products and in technical textiles. More needs to be done to support their activities in established markets but also emerging economies. For instance, the ongoing FTA negotiations with India should focus on improving market access and ensure “fair” competition with local companies.

The EURATEX Spring Report highlights significant differences between trade in value and in volume. EU’s export of textile products has increased by 13% in value, but actually dropped by nearly 7% in volume. This obviously reflects the very high inflation figures from last year, caused initially by the rising energy prices and changing central bank policies. This in turn leads to uncertainty with the consumer, resulting in low demand and gloomy prospects for the entire value chain.

Director General Dirk Vantyghem commented on these latest figures: “This report confirms once again that “textiles” is one of the most globalised sectors of the European economy, and hence the importance of taking that global dimension into account, when designing EU and national policies. Failing to do so may have a devastating effect on the global competitiveness of the European textile industry.

Looking forward, he added: “It is essential to stabilise inflation, restore consumer confidence and ensure a level playing field for all operators in the textile industry. On that basis, European companies can prosper and offer quality jobs to 1.3 million workers”.

Since April 2023, the testing service provider Hohenstein has been testing and certifying in two new areas in the field of protective clothing: protective suits and gloves against chemicals and infectious agents. These are covered by Regulation (EU) 2016/425 and are therefore personal protective equipment (PPE).

Protective clothing against infectious agents is used in many types of work: for example, work at sewage plants, waste disposal, animal care, disposal of hazardous waste from hospitals, etc. Workers are exposed to unknown infectious agents (microorganisms, parasites). The protective clothing should protect wearers from the mediums in which the microorganisms are contained, such as liquids, aerosols or solid dust particles.

Hohenstein tests and certifies the following types:

• EN 14605: Protective clothing against liquid chemicals: Liquid-tight (type 3) or spray-tight (type 4) as well as partial protection types PB[3] and PB[4]
• EN 13982-1: Protective clothing against airborne solid particulates: Type 5
• EN 13034: Protective clothing against liquid chemicals: Type 6 and PB[6]

• 1Q23 Performance Summary
• Revenue of US$4B, an increase of 3% QoQ and a decline of 9% YoY
• Reported EBITDA of US$301M, an increase of 269% QoQ and decrease of 62% YOY
• Operating cash flows of US$201M
• Net Operating Debt to Equity of 1.00x
• Reported EPS of THB 0.14

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited (IVL), a global sustainable chemical producer, reported improved quarterly earnings as headwinds continue to ease from the previous quarter’s peaks, although still below normalized levels. The company continues to focus on enhancing its global competitiveness as the full benefit of China’s reopening spurs volumes through the year, and as volatile energy costs and the destocking trend by customers begin to normalize.

Indorama Ventures achieved Reported EBITDA of $301 million in 1Q23, an increase of 269% QoQ and a decline of 62% YoY. Sales volumes dropped 8% YoY amid the heavy destocking trend that is impacting the chemical industry globally, although volumes rose 5% QoQ as the pace of destocking begins to slow from the peak in 4Q22. With China reopening from pandemic lockdowns and economic activity increasing, there has been marginal improvement in benchmark spreads, albeit below historical levels. In Europe, the warmer-than-expected winter contributed to lower energy prices and alleviated the cost pressures faced last year.

The Group reported an overall decline in Q1 earnings on a year-on-year basis as continued destocking by customers kept sales volumes below consumer consumption levels. CPET posted Reported EBITDA of $142 million, a 74% decrease YoY as sales volumes dropped 9%. Fibers segment achieved Reported EBITDA of $32 million, a decrease of 69% YoY as all three verticals reported declining sales. Integrated Oxides and Derivatives (IOD) segment posted a 4.4% growth in YoY Reported EBITDA to $128 million as volumes rose 4.4% YoY.

At ITMA 2023 in Milan from June 8-14, Fong’s Europe will introduce its latest THEN Synergy Airflow and THEN Airjetwin machines, which exploit the principle to provide high-quality, efficient and eco-friendly dyeing processes for a variety of fabrics.

“THEN introduced its first machines with Airflow technology in 1980 and since then we have had wide experience of pretreating and dyeing with Airflow transport systems on all kind of fabrics,” says Fong’s Europe Director of Sales and Marketing Richard Fander. “Our team of engineers has collected data on dyeing processes, results and consumption figures for years and constantly makes use of this accumulated know-how to optimise the processes of our customers.

“The THEN team understands Airflow dyeing processes and technology based on it guarantees the lowest liquor ratio on round shape machines. The transport of fabric by air reduces the liquor ratio compared to every kind of hydraulically driven transport system.”

He adds that while not every fabric can be dyed and treated on Airflow machines with the same handle and appearance as on hydraulic round shape or long shape machines, where it is applicable, it can lead to significant savings of up to 35% in water, 50% in salt, 20% in dyestuffs and 30% in process time.

The THEN Airflow dyeing machines have several features, including several parallel functions for reducing process time. The VPR system shortens the rinsing time and water usage and the robust and homogeneous spraying device in the nozzle ensures a uniform dyeing in the shortest process time. The very short liquor ratio also reduces the use of salt and chemicals.

adidas TERREX announces a multi-season collaboration with National Geographic, consisting of high-performance outdoor wear. The inaugural collection is built to celebrate the role of photography in the culture of outdoor sport - as well-equipped hikers turn their ability to explore more places, and spirit of adventure, into stunning content.

To celebrate this relationship, designers at adidas TERREX combed the National Geographic photography archives for stunning stills of some of the most remote yet moving locations on earth, integrated in unique all over prints in a bold new hiking collection. All pieces are unified by National Geographic’s iconic yellow icon.

Places celebrated in the collection include a snow-covered sandstone monocline in Comb Ridge, Utah, a 120-mile-long, north to south stretch that defines the State’s red rock landscape, as well as textured portraits of shale, - captured on the coast of Norway’s northernmost county - highlighting the sedimentary rock’s distinctive formations.

The 51-piece collection includes women’s, men’s, and gender-neutral offerings – all built to equip the wearer in multi-terrain environments:

• A part of the collection is the RAIN.RDY Jacket; a 2.5L waterproof and seam-sealed outer garment built to facilitate epic adventures. The men’s jacket features a bold print of the shell formations in the Porsanger Peninsula, Norway, while the women’s is inspired by stills of White Sands National Park in New Mexico.
• A long sleeve shirt is finished with the bold National Geographic yellow icon and reflective details.
• The TERREX Swift R3 GORE-TEX Hiking shoes offer the peak combination of a lightweight construction and cushioning as seen in trail running shoes with the stability of a hiking boot. Finished in a print inspired by a stunning aerial shot of Earth, the hiking shoes come with a GORE-TEX lining and membrane seal so water is kept out, and a Continental™ Rubber outsole for optimal grip in wet or dry conditions.
• The WIND.RDY: GET SHELTERED Jacket, with wind-resistant technology and a water repellent ripstop fabric, allows explorers to feel protected and confident in many weather conditions. The men’s and women’s versions come with bold prints inspired by photography including that of sandstone and snow at Comb Ridge, Utah. Smart design features including a bungee-cord enabled adjustable hem, a lightweight fabric and reflective details. Additionally, it features a bold new lenticular logo design that alternates between Terrex and National Geographic from different perspectives – and is made in part with recycled materials.

As a trade fair for safety and occupational health in China, the 104th China International Occupational Safety & Health Goods Expo (CIOSH 2023), organized by China Textile Commerce Association (CTCA) and Messe Düsseldorf (Shanghai) Co., Ltd. (MDS), will be grandly held at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre (SNIEC) Hall E1-E7 from 13-15 April 2023. Following three years of epidemic prevention and control measures, the situation has stabilized in China, allowing the labor protection market to enter a phase of rapid recovery and rebound. CIOSH 2023 will attract over 1,500 exhibitors from 14 countries, showcasing their latest protective equipment and technology in an exhibition area exceeding 80,000 square meters.

Integrating Online and Offline Platforms
CIOSH 2023 encompasses four major sectors: Safety at Work, Security at Work, Health at Work, and Emergency Rescue Management. Renowned domestic and international exhibitors, including 3M, Honeywell, Ansell, SATA, JSP, MSA, DELTAPLUS, Lakeland, Cortina, UVEX, CM Chaomei, Xing Yu Gloves, DS, East Asia Glove, Hanvo, SOMO Zhongmai Safety, SAFETY-INXS, and TELPS, will assemble on site. At the same time, CIOSH 2023 has introduced an innovative online platform - CIOSH VIRTUAL. By offering online displays, live streaming, interactive features, and real-time communications, it breaks time and space constraints, facilitating exhibitors and visitors to continue their business exchanges and cooperations beyond the physical exhibition. So far, nearly 1,300 companies have joined the CIOSH VIRTUAL, showcasing more than 3,000 products online and attracting over 70,000 views.

CIOSH Industry Technical Seminar, Sustainable Development Emerges as the Key Focus
The annual Industry Technical Seminar, held concurrently with CIOSH, serves as a platform for professionals to discuss product solutions, share industry insights, and exchange ideas on relevant policies. In 2021, China integrated climate change mitigation measures into its 14th Five-Year Plan, established a 2030 carbon peaking action plan, and proactively pursued the goal of carbon neutrality by 2060. Under the development objectives of "carbon peaking" and "carbon neutrality," the sustainable development of the personal protective equipment (PPE) industry has become the primary theme of this year's seminar. Experts from China Carbon Low-carbon Certification (Jiangsu) Co., Ltd., China Certification Centre, Inc., and SGS-CSTC Standards Technical Services Co., Ltd., will examine related policies, the effects of "carbon neutrality" on the PPE industry chain and the industries using PPE from different angles. They will also explore the future direction of PPE and offer professional guidance for the transformation of relevant enterprises.

Fall Protection Zone
Falls from height are one of the most common accidents that cause serious injury or death to workers. Effective fall protection requires not only protective equipment, but also professional instructions and training. Therefore, CIOSH set up a new Fall Protection Zone in 2021, which received unanimous acclaim. CIOSH 2023 has continued to invite SKYLOTEC, rothoblaas, JECH, Mode and NTR Safety, five companies that specialize in protection at height, to conduct on-site demonstrations on fall testing, fall protection solutions and aerial rescue, and provide visitors with the most professional fall protection guidance and training.

Occupational Health
CIOSH has always implemented the strategy of expanding the business scope in a diversified way, which devotes itself to providing innovative opportunities and new driving forces for the sustainability of the occupational safety and health industry. This year, focusing on the "occupational health" sector, the exhibition will launch an Ergonomics Zone and an Exoskeleton Technology Zone for the first time.

A little over three years have passed since RadiciGroup announced the acquisition of Zeta Polimeri, an Italian company headquartered in Buronzo (VC) with over 30 years' experience in the recovery of pre- and post-consumer synthetic fibres and thermoplastic materials. Today, the company has become a full member of the Group with its new name Radici EcoMaterials Srl.

The new company’s long-standing know-how, combined with RadiciGroup’s as a whole, will create a virtuous production system that recovers worn-out materials (fabric, yarn and granules), or otherwise unusable materials, and processes them into raw materials available for other production cycles by taking advantage of industrial synergy.

Radici EcoMaterials is a strategic production site because it handles all the preliminary recovery stages: the sorting, processing and pre-treatment of materials, including those used for the production of post-consumer yarns and engineering polymers. In this sense, Radici EcoMaterials is in line with the most recent European policies on sustainable textiles, which address minimizing the share of materials destined for disposal sites, favouring instead more structured recycling solutions.

Radici EcoMaterials is also GRS certified. GRS certification ensures the complete traceability of its materials, which are made in a safe plant that meets the highest environmental and social certification standards.

The company is also equipped with a photovoltaic system and, for the portion of its energy needs not covered by the photovoltaic source, it partially relies on renewable energy. The goal is to use 100% green energy in the next few years, in accord with RadiciGroup's goals.

Flat knitting solutions provider SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan, together with its Brazilian representative BRASTEMA TECNOLOGIA TEXTIL LTDA., will participate in the FIMEC 2023 46th International Fair of Leather, Chemicals, Components, Machinery and Equipment for Footwear and Tanneries in Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil next month.

Working off the recent trend in knitted shoe uppers in the athletic footwear market, SHIMA SEIKI proposes knitted fabrics to the general footwear market as an alternative to leather. To that end SHIMA SEIKI will be showcasing the latest applications of computerized flat knitting technology to demonstrate its contributions in this field.

As pioneer of WHOLEGARMENT® knitting technology whereby the knitted product can be produced in one entire piece on the machine without linking or sewing, the company is showing the MACH2XS WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine for the first time at FIMEC. MACH2XS features 4 needle beds and SHIMA SEIKI's original SlideNeedle™, capable of producing high-quality fine gauge WHOLEGARMENT® products in all needles. Proposals include WHOLEGARMENT® sportswear as well as seam-free shoe uppers. For conventional shaped knitting of shoe uppers, the SVR123SP machine features a loop presser bed that permits inlay technique for producing hybrid fabrics with both knit and weave characteristics, suited to shoe upper applications that require form-fitting function, comfort, flexibility, breathability as well as strength and stiffness. SVR123SP furthermore features i-Plating inverse-plating capability for increased patterning capability, including the production of jacquard-like patterns in light-weight plain jersey stitch. Also on show will be the compact SVR093 machine with a short knitting width intended for knitting shoe uppers. Both SVR machines feature such SHIMA SEIKI innovations as DSCS® Digital Stitch Control System, spring-type moveable sinker system, stitch presser, yarn gripper and cutter, and takedown comb. Made-in-Japan quality, reliability, productivity, user-friendliness and cost-performance all combine to satisfy the high expectations of the world's shoe industry.

SHIMA SEIKI’s SDS®-ONE APEX4 3D design system will also be available for demonstrations in design and simulation suited to shoe production. Of particular interest is its ultra-realistic simulation capability that realizes Virtual Sampling. When countless variations must be evaluated before arriving at a final design, virtual product samples can be used to streamline the decision-making process by minimizing the enormous amount of time and cost normally associated with producing actual samples for each variation. The sustainability factor is also undeniable.

Freudenberg Performance Materials (Freudenberg) will present surfacing veils and core materials for lightweight fiber reinforced plastic (FRP) parts at JEC in Paris, France. Freudenberg will also be showcasing Enka® Solutions flow media and spacers for efficient vacuum infusion, resin transfer and foam injection molding processes for applications in the composites industry, etc. at the international composites show.
 
Freudenberg’s solutions for the FRP industry include a variety of glass, PAN and PET nonwovens, as well as core materials for the production of lightweight fiber reinforced plastic parts. These products are designed for anti-corrosion coatings in piping and tank construction, smooth UV resistant surfaces for facade panels, and other applications for a diverse range of end products. Products made from fiber reinforced plastics must be equipped with surfacing veils to provide abrasion resistance, corrosion resistance, smooth surfaces and mechanical strength. Freudenberg offers high-tech nonwovens that can meet these challenges.
 
Enka® Solutions products are characterized by their typical 3D entangled polymeric filament structures. Thanks to this structure, they are exceptionally suitable as flow media and spacers when producing composite materials.

Svegea of Sweden – a member of TMAS, the Swedish Textile Machinery Association – has recently installed an EC300-S collarette cutter for the high speed production of tubular apparel components as well as an FA350 automatic roll slitter at the plant of Löffler, in Ried im Innkreis, Austria.

The EC 300-S collarette cutter is equipped with the computer-controlled True-Drive II and high pre-feed device, which is used by garment manufacturers around the world for the production of tubular apparel components such as cuff and neck tapes and other seam reinforcements. It operates at speeds of up to 20,000 metres per hour. The integrated, fully automatic FA350 roll slitter FA500 roll slitter is equipped with three separately adjustable settings enabling three different band widths to be cut within the same cutting cycle. Automatic tube sewing units are provided for sewn tubes in optional rolled or flat folded forms, depending on customer preference.

Sports and knitwear specialist Löffler is celebrating its 50th anniversary in 2023. Its plant in Ried houses 25 circular knitting machines and three seamless knitting machines with an annual output of around 905,000 square metres of fabric, and in addition to product development, design, cutting and some sewing are all carried out in-house.

Löffler is known for its transtex under garments, which ushered in the two-layer principle of structures combining hydrophobic polypropylene and other fibres like cotton, Modal, Tencel or merino wool.

Before transtex, endurance athletes usually wore pure cotton underwear next to their skin, which became wet over time and cooled the body down. Löffler’s two-layer fabric prevented this, since the polypropylene does not absorb moisture and instead wicks it to the outside, where it can evaporate to keep the skin dry.

Innovation has been ongoing ever since, and in December, Löffler received an ISPO Award 2022 for transtex Retr’x – its latest functional underwear made from recycled polypropylene from textile waste and a combination of recycled and GOTS-certified organic cotton. Transtex Retr’x is neither dyed or bleached and is Standard 100 by Oeko-Tex as well as Made In Green by Oeko-Tex approved.

In addition to its own branded products, the plant makes sports garments for sister company Fischer, which is also based in Ried, and is at the same time involved in significant government tender projects, including the supply of polo shirts for the Austrian Red Cross and for the German and Austrian police forces. Combined, Löffler and Fischer employ approximately 700 people in the region of Upper Austria.