From the Sector

• Style3D is sole shareholder of Assyst
• Integration of both product lines from 3D design to production
• Assyst remains independent within Style3D

Assyst GmbH is as of now part of Style3D. The German fashion technology market leader and the leading 3D software company are joining forces. For Assyst customers and partners nothing will change.
 
Die Assyst GmbH betreibt ihre Geschäfte weiterhin eigenständig, entwickelt alle ihre Produkte weiter und strebt mit Style3D eine gemeinsame, durchgängige Produktwelt an. Der erste gemeinsame Auftritt des Assyst-Style3D-Teams findet bereits auf der Assyst Experience im Rahmen der Munich Fabric Start (24.-26. Januar 2023) statt.

Assyst will continue to operate its business independently and to develop, sell, and service all its existing products. Style3D and Assyst will start to integrate their products into a universal, seamless product world. The Assyst-Style3D team will make its first joint appearance already at the end of January at the Assyst Experience at Munich Fabric Start (24-26 January 2023).

Both companies are deeply rooted in apparel development and production: Style3D in Asia and Assyst in EMEA. Together, they are planning to create a global product offering for producers and brands that covers the entire apparel value chain from development to production and the various sales touchpoints.

Starting point will be the integration of the flagship products of both companies – Style3D and Assyst.CAD. Style3D is currently the most advanced 3D fashion design software with a high growth rate globally. While Assyst is market leader with its 2D CAD technology in Germany, Austria, Italy and Switzerland and offers a seamless software portfolio from 2D and 3D CAD to production (Automarker) and to all sales touchpoints.

Major driver of the merger is the companies’ complimentary technology offering and the vision to create a seamless digital process from providing digital fabric and accessories up to the realization of products.

The merger also strengthens Assyst's competitive position in the 3D design sector. Style3D, in turn, will benefit from Assyst's expertise in the development, CAD and digital simulation of apparel products and the access to the international market.

Looking ahead to the future, both parties will offer 2D-based & 3D-based one-stop solutions for business clients leveraging on their global tech base and complementary serviceable resource dominance. On January 24-26, the Assyst-Style3D team will meet clients and present its products at the Assyst Experience at Munich Fabric Start.

Hologenix®, creators of CELLIANT®, is pleased to announce CELLIANT® with REPREVE® – introduced with global textile solutions provider UNIFI®, makers of REPREVE® – has been awarded a Selection in the Fibers & Insulation Category of ISPO Textrends Fall/Winter 2024/25.

Twice a year, ISPO recognizes innovative fibers, fabrics and components that are used to manufacture sports apparel. Both companies are excited that CELLIANT® with REPREVE®, whereby CELLIANT infrared (IR) technology is embedded into REPREVE, a brand of recycled fiber, has achieved the honor. CELLIANT® with REPREVE® is a performance fiber made from recycled materials that have been enhanced with IR technology to provide wellness benefits to the consumer.

CELLIANT is a natural blend of IR-generating bioceramic minerals, which, when embedded into textiles, allows them to convert body heat into infrared energy, returning it to the body and temporarily increasing local circulation and cellular oxygenation. This aids significantly in muscle recovery, increases endurance, and improves overall performance in healthy individuals, among other benefits.

REPREVE recycled performance fiber consists of high-quality fibers made from 100% recycled materials, including post-consumer plastic bottles and pre-consumer waste. It is also certified and traceable with UNIFI’s U TRUST® verification and FiberPrint™ technology, which provide assurance that the product comes from recycled materials. Compared to virgin fiber, REPREVE helps to offset the use of petroleum, conserving water and energy and emitting fewer greenhouse gasses.

This award marks the third year in a row that Hologenix has had its CELLIANT technology recognized in the Fall/Winter Textrends Awards. CELLIANT in pure white was a Top Ten Winner in last year’s awards. The prior year, CELLIANT Viscose was a Selection Winner as well.

Grosvenor, an international retail development and investment company, has launched a search for new technologies that promote innovation and create a social customer experience. A major aim of the challenge was to drive retail recovery in a post-pandemic world where bricks and mortar stores saw footfall slump. Zyler’s try-on solution impressed the judges and the companies will launch the technology with Grosvenor’s retail tenants.

Zyler’s patented technology allows customers to see themselves in any outfit with a head and shoulders photo and basic measurements virtually. For retailers, the try-on experience can be embedded into a website or existing app with only a small snippet of code needed.

The philosophy guiding Officina39's innovation and development ranges fluidly between exploration of color, denim heritage and artistic expression, but has sustainability and the search for environmentally friendly chemical solutions for the fashion industry as its cornerstones. This is the core vision that accompanied the Italian company, when presenting its latest technologies and collaborations at Denimsandjeans in Tokyo from November 1-2.

Denim & Art
Juan Manuel Gomez, Officina39 Creative Leader, represents the company’s multidisciplinary approach and combines artistic expression with a thorough technical experience. His explorations were drawn on the Denim Art Wall at the fair. Furthermore, in the interactive seminar “Art & Denim As A Process Of Repetition” he explained that there is a constant act of repetition as automatic drawing or pictorial act in the processes of the textile industry.

The SS24 collection
The Multicolor Denim Dreaming collection is a combination of several Officina39’s sustainable key technologies:

• Nebudye D: a wide range of fresh colors to obtain a unique dyeing effect in nebulization/fog system machinery and can be discharged in a creative way with Oz-One Powder, an advanced product to give garments a bleached yet eco-friendly treatment, and Remover IND/J-N, Officina39’s solution to replace the use of Potassium Permanganate (PP) on denim and obtain a worn and distressed vintage look.
• Novantic series: a combination of selected dyestuffs with a special mordanting agent suitable to obtain surface dyeing to provide vintage or old look effects.
• Recycrom™: a patented dyestuffs range obtained through a cutting-edge upcycling process that involves textile fibers from used clothing and manufacturing waste for dyeing and printing applications. Its sustainable and revolutionary powders assure a whole universe of denim effects: from classic authentic vintage to acid wash look (Eco Marble), from printed effect (Indigo Replica) to worn and distressed vintage look (Recycrom™ Dirty).
• Just One Step Process: an innovation that saves time, energy, space and of course water, by combining several phases of the Aqualess Mission at the same time: a raw garment enters the machine and a garment with a basic vintage effect comes out ready to be dried, already treated, bleached and softened.
• Remover Activator: a technology that in combination with PP replacement products creates in one step general bleaching, localized corrosion and highlights effects on jeans.

JIAM 2022 OSAKA, organised by the Japan Sewing Machinery Manufacturers Association (JASMA), will soon be held at INTEX OSAKA from 30 November – 3 December 2022. Under the theme of “It all connects at JIAM – the forefront of technology and master craftsmanship”, the 12th edition brings together leading sewing machine suppliers and apparel manufacturers, making it a must-attend event for textile professionals. In this era of change, an international platform to facilitate business and information exchange is essential. The 2022 edition will showcase apparel manufacturing solutions catered to each and every need, combining high-level skillsets and time-tested knowledge with the latest modern-day technology.

As of October, 144 exhibitors from 10 countries and regions (China, Greece, Germany, Hong Kong, India, Italy, Singapore, Taiwan and Thailand) have signed up for JIAM 2022 OSAKA to showcase their latest products and services. Of these, 39 companies (21 domestic, 18 overseas) will be joining the fair for the first time. In addition, two pavilions from Germany (VDMA; Mechanical Engineering Industry Association) and Taiwan (TSMA; Taiwan Sewing Machinery Association) will bring even more product diversity to the show floor. The previous edition of JIAM OSAKA in 2016 welcomed 258 exhibitors from 15 countries and regions as well as 15,257 visitors from 72 countries and regions, mainly from Bangladesh, China, India, Korea, Taiwan, Sri Lanka, and Vietnam.

A wide variety of special seminars
11 special organiser seminars will not only provide relevant industry knowledge, but also offer practical skills for daily work:

• Manufacturing industry and digital technology
  Mr Atsushi Yasuda, Manager of Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry Manufacturing Industries Bureau,Industrial Machinery Division
• Skills training seminar
  1. Twist Jacket (Lapel) pattern and matching sewing (front and shoulder seams)
  2. Shoulder keeper (prevent shoulder collapse) cherish a piece of clothing
  Mr Susumu Inarida, Emeritus Professor of Bunka Fashion Graduate University (BFGU) / Specially Appointed Committee Member of Japan Modelist Associate / Contemporary Master Craftsman Certified by the Ministry of Health, Labor and Welfare
• "Mottainai!" sustainable initiatives from Osaka!
  Common points between Senshu Towl and OSAKA KABAN and the future
  Mr Eiji Shinoda, President of Shinoda cCorp
  Mr Kenji Fukuroya, Representative Employee of Fukuroya Joint Company etc.
• About the sustainable fashion community “NewMake”- Upcycling initiatives in collaboration with brands
  Mr Tac Hosokawa, CEO of Story & Co.
• Win - win strategy on underwear sewing, viewpoint of BISEI SANGYO Co., LTD
  Mr Toru Miyawaki, Managing Executive Officer of BISEI SANGYO Co.,LTD / Chairman of Hikoneseni Cooperative

Home Sewing Machine Zone
Catering to the B2C market, the Home Sewing Machine Zone, will feature major domestic household sewing machine suppliers. To promote the joy of sewing, a special workshop will be organised by Brother Industries Ltd, Janome Corp, JUKI Corp and JASMA covering topics such as the use of upcycled materials. As part of JIAM 2022 OSAKA’s sustainable development goals, visitors will be taught to sew “cup sleeves” using discarded items and materials from the DIY brand WHTATNOT. Attendees will also learn about upcycling, the process of upgrading unwanted items into new products that are useful. Another highlight will be the awards for JASMA’s “42th Home Sewing Competition for Elementary, Middle, and High School Students”.

After two years of joint collaboration and research the Swiss Textile Recycling Project “Texcircle” comes to an end. Partners and stakeholders have worked on the vision of a textile cluster where materials flow in circular loops. The goal of the project was to develop high-quality yarns and products incorporating such a large amount of recycled textiles as possible. In the end, several product prototypes from carpets, socks, and curtains to pullovers, padding and accessories have been developed with at least 50 % recycled fiber up to 80 % recycled fibers and yarns.

Europe has a waste problem of 7.5 million waste of which only 30-35 % is collected and less than 1 % of the textile and clothing worldwide is recycled into textiles and clothing again. It is as well found that around 80 % of the impact of a textile product lies in the design.

Together with the design research expertise of the Lucerne University of Applied sciences and arts, the spinning expertise of Rieter and the sorting and collection expertise of Texaid, systems should be created where products of high quality can be produced of recycled fiber. On board were the expertise of further Cluster partners of Brands, Retailers, and the public sector to see how a joint Cluster and system coukld be established.

The Project Texcircle and cluster is led by the Lucerne University of Applied Sciences and Arts – Art  & Design, and in collaboration with Coop, Rieter, Jacob Rohner AG, Ruckstuhl AG, TEXAID as well as workfashion.com ag. Furthermore, Bundesamt für Zivildienst ZIVI, NIKIN AG, and Tiger Liz Textiles are supporting the project. The project is funded by Innosuisse.

Furthermore, collaboration partners from all over Europe contributed to the project to enable these prototypes and systems.

Through joint developments from the design, the collecting, sorting trials, tearing, and spinning trials until the actual production trials and product testing. The partners were able to recycle 2.5 Tons of pre-and post-consumer textile waste into product prototypes with a promising commercial interest. From socks, west, and pullovers to non-woven felts and accessories to carpets and curtains. Through our 2 years of collaboration, the teamcame across several hurdles in the textile recycling value chain which could be tackled. This was a proof of concept that a circular system is possible and the industry now has to enable this at full scale.

Monforts has installed and commissioned a new Montex finishing range at the Baltic Works of Halley Stevensons in Dundee, Scotland, to further boost the weatherproofing specialist’s highly flexible operations.

The range, with a working width of two metres, was built at the Montex assembly plant in Austria and consists of a Montex®Coat coating unit in knife execution for paste and foam coating and a Montex 8500 6F stenter.

Founded in 1864, Halley Stevensons has amassed unique technical know-how and manufacturing experience in the art of waxed cotton for weatherproofed fabrics and is able to provide international orders in custom colours and finishes to very low minimum quantities where required. The company exports worldwide and its premium brand customers include Belstaff, Barbours, Filson and J.Crew.

The range has replaced one of the company’s older stenter/coating lines and has already enabled Halley Stevensons to recreate various products with lower coating applications at higher speeds than was previously possible.

Waxed cotton was originally developed by sailors in the early 15th century when Scottish North Sea herring fleets began treating flax sailcloth with fish oils and grease in an attempt to waterproof their sails. Remnants of these sails were used by the sailors as capes to withstand the high winds and sea spray.

By the mid 1850s, sailcloth was being treated with linseed oil, but while initially highly effective, it would yellow and stiffen through weathering over time and eventually lose its waterproofing qualities.

In the years that followed, various treatments were applied to cottons in an attempt to find the most effective weatherproofing solution, and the combination of densely-woven cotton impregnated with a paraffin waxed coating proved most successful. For over 150 years, Halley Stevensons created many different variations of both woven constructions and finishing treatments and now supplies thousands of metres of waxed cotton every year, with each roll produced to custom specifications.

“The beauty of waxed cotton is its durability and longevity,” says Managing Director James Campbell. “The fabrics are breathable, with the wax adjusting to ambient temperatures to be softer and more breathable in warm weather and stiffer and more wind proof in cold conditions.”
While traditional waxes are petroleum or paraffin based, Halley Stevensons has always been comfortable about using a waste product from industry and reusing it to make products that last a lifetime.  

“We are always exploring different finishing techniques and one of our most popular finishes is our hybrid aero – an emulsified blend of waxes,” Campbell says. “This fabric is water repellent but has little wax in the mixture so the handle is much drier to touch than the traditional wet waxes.”

The company has also recently launched a new 100% plant-based wax – Ever Wax Olive – consisting of a blend of olive oil, rape seed and castor bean with comparable water repellence to petroleum and a far better rating than other natural waxes which have come before it.

“The high tradition of skills and fabric innovation imposed by our original guildsmen is still our benchmark standard of honest workmanship today,” Managing Director James Campbell concludes “We use responsibly sourced cotton fabrics and processes that are gentle to the product and low impact to the environment. Our dyeing methods use very low levels of water and our waxes are simply heated up for application and cooled down to store when not in use, meaning no waste discharges. Now, with this new Monforts line, we are also achieving running speeds two-to-three times faster than with the older stenter, combined with less gas usage. It’s proved a great partnership.”

• Commitment for a sustainable fashion industry

RadiciGroup participated in the third edition of PHYGITAL SUSTAINABILITY EXPO, which took place on 11 and 12 July in Rome. The event was focused on the ecological transition of fashion and design brands through technological innovation.

During the “narrated fashion show”, at the archaeological site of the Museo Dei Fori Imperiali, two sustainable garments by RadiciGroup were shown: the first completely recyclable ski suit made with recycled nylon and the Yamamay swimsuit made with polyester yarn obtained from recycling of plastic bottles.

Yamamay chose the sustainable polyester yarn Repetable® by RadiciGroup, for its new green beachwear proposal, with the aim of combining beauty and sustainability. Repetable is an innovative polyester yarn obtained through a process of recycling plastic bottles. Compared to virgin polyester, Repetable allows lower CO₂ emissions (-45%), lower water consumption (-90%) and lower energy consumption (-60%), while guaranteeing high performance. The new line “Edit” by Yamamay, which includes the swimsuit made with Repetable, has already been on the market since the end of last May.

The participation of RadiciGroup in the PHYGITAL SUSTAINABILITY EXPO represents further confirmation of the Group commitment to creating a fashion industry that is increasingly respectful of the environment, thanks to the involvement of all the players in the supply chain, which are most sensitive to sustainability.

The new Swedish luxury womenswear brand presented its first couture runway show, ‘Midnight in the Persian Garden’, in the Salle des Textiles of Paris’ Musée des Arts et Métiers on Thursday, July 7th at 10.30am CET.

As earthly manifestations of an imaginary paradise, where architecture and horticulture were brought together into meticulous perfection, the Persian garden was the point of inspiration for ArdAzAei’s debut couture collection.
A poetic ode to the transcendent beauty of nature, ‘Midnight in the Persian Garden’ honours the incredibly complex systems of engineering required to create such sublime spaces through couture’s intricate techniques of smocking, pleating, embroidery, and appliqué.
 
An evening wear collection of red-carpet gowns and cocktail dresses, tailoring, jewellery and accessories, the collection sees a recurring reference to the Persian Rose and the Parrot Tulip, with the flowers informing silhouettes, three-dimensional sculptural forms, and elaborately embroidered jacquard.
 
Sharp tailoring in the form of contemporary women’s suits see sleek jackets and flared pants with hypnotic floral patterning evoking the undulating chaos of nature’s rhythms.
 
Another key theme running throughout the collection is the dynamic between mathematic forms of composition—a key element of Persian garden architecture—and the craft of the handmade, evident in crystal sequins custom-cut to the lines of the ArdAzAei logo, designed by M/M (Paris), which are then hand-embroidered to create organic forms.
 
The dynamic is also evident in an evening dress which sees 60 metres of fabric pleated and cut into geometric shapes appliqued to its top, while 100 hand-painted pleated fans go into the construction of its flared skirt.

In order to realise such intricate forms of construction, the collection is made in France in collaboration with highly skilled couture artisans focused on upholding the highest craftsmanship and material standards. The show venue, the ‘Salle des Textiles’ at the Musée des Arts et Métiers, pays homage to the country’s rare artisanal expertise.

“I have been searching for the long-lasting beauty and respect for nature that you’ll find in the Persian garden, some of which date back to as early as 4,000 BC,” says Bahareh Ardakani, ArdAzAei’s founder and creative director.
 
“This is reflected in our endeavours to certify part of our collection to the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), and why this collection is made in France with the country’s leading couture artisans. Every detail is precious, and we want to express the feeling of walking through a Persian garden in the midnight to the smallest of details.”
 
With ateliers in Paris and Stockholm, ArdAzAei is where Persian heritage, Swedish modernism and French savoir-faire collide.

As a luxury womenswear brand engaged in the search for the sublime, ArdAzAei eschews trend-based consumption to instead offer made-to-measure couture, and one prêt-à-porter collection of formalwear per year, released in drops according to the seasons on the digital flagship ArdAzAei.com
 
ArdAzAei focuses on working with textile suppliers that can reveal the details of the origins and processes behind its products, tracing each fabric right through the supply chain of raw materials, yarn spinners, weavers, print and dying techniques.

The winner of the IMAGINING SUSTAINABLE FASHION competition was announced during a webinar broadcast on March 30 at 4pm attended by Giusy Bettoni, CEO of C.L.A.S.S. Eco Hub, Anna Detheridge, President of Connecting Cultures, Dio Kurazawa, Founding Partner of The Bear Scouts, Stefania Ricci, Director of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum.
 
Vishal Tolambia, 24, a graduate with an MA in Fashion Futures from the London College of Fashion and in Fashion Design from the National Institute of Fashion Technology India, is a Fashion Sustainability researcher and a multidisciplinary designer. In 2021, Vishal founded the organization Humanity-Centred Designs (HCD) with the aim of transforming "human-centred design into humanity-centred designs through sustainable practices to foster the Fashion Industry."
 
In his communication project, the "Fashion Affair" video proposes a speculative view of fashion dating - derived from dating apps - a tool to effectively evaluate brands and their products, in the form of augmented reality. The consumer is not only informed in real time about the brand and supply chain, but the app also becomes a platform for matching products based on individual sustainability goals and commitments. "Fashion Affair" also won the special social media contest open to the public among the finalists selected by the jury for being the most voted project by Instagram followers on C.L.A.S.S.' profile.
 
Vishal ranked first among the finalists selected by the international jury composed of:
- Anna Detheridge, Founder and President, Connecting Cultures
- Giusy Bettoni, CEO and Founder, C.L.A.S.S.
- Rita Airaghi, Director, Gianfranco Ferré Research Center            
- Paola Arosio, Head of New Brands & Sustainability Projects, Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (The National Chamber for Italian Fashion)
- Jeanine Ballone, Managing Director, Fashion 4 Development
- Evie Evangelou, Founder and President, Fashion 4 Development
- Chiara Luisi, Sustainability Projects Coordinator, Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (The National Chamber for Italian Fashion)
- Sara Kozlowski, Director of Education and Sustainable Strategies, Council of Fashion Designers of America
- Dio Kurazawa, Founding Partner, The Bear Scouts
- Renata Molho, journalist and fashion writer, former editor-in-chief of L'Uomo Vogue and editor-at-large of L'Uomo Vogue, Vogue Italia, Casa Vogue
- Stefania Ricci, Director, Salvatore Ferragamo Museum.