From the Sector

Freudenberg Performance Materials Apparel (Freudenberg) launches its biodegradable fusible cotton shirt interlinings range 46xx. With this innovation, the world’s leading specialist in woven, knitted, weft and nonwoven interlinings reduces its impact on the environment and supports customers in achieving their own sustainability objectives. In Asia, the series is marketed under the name 42xx series.

Approved biodegradability and non-toxicity by Hohenstein Laboratories
The new Freudenberg fusible interlinings for shirts and blouses have been developed in such a way that they are harmless to people and the environment at the end of their life cycle. Germany’s independent Hohenstein Laboratories performed biodegradation tests on the 46xx series, based on the Hohenstein method which draws on DIN EN ISO 11721-2:2003 and EN ISO 846, and approved it as biodegradable and ecotoxicologically harmless. The tests by Hohenstein showed no negative effects on either the germination of garden cress nor on earthworms in the acute toxicity test.

Energy-saving interlining
The new biodegradable shirt interlinings also show great potential for energy saving, as the fusing can be performed at a low temperature. Concretely, this means that the resulting temperature between the upper fabric and the shirt interlining during fusing is only 127°C which is significantly lower than the commonly used temperature of 143°C. Certified to OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 Class II for successfully testing for no harmful substances, the shirt interlinings are washable at up to 40°C and resistant to dry cleaning. In addition, it has also passed all ecological-toxicological tests and is a perfect end-of-life cycle solution.

Product details and availability
The products in range 46xx are available in Europe in the color white and the following weight classes: 4605 (90g/m2), 4616 (150g/m2) and 4618 (55g/m2). The adhesive of the interlinings consists of a 100% degradable bio-polymer. The shirt interlinings are ideal for reinforcing shirt and blouse collars, cuffs and plackets used in fashion, leisure and business clothing. The biodegradable, non-toxic interlinings are particularly important for labels with an ecologically sustainable claim.

KT®, a kinesiology tape brand, launched KT Tape PRO Oxygen – the first kinesiology tape to feature CELLIANT® Infrared Technology from Hologenix. KT Tape PRO Oxygen is designed to increase cellular oxygenation and promote muscle support during physical activity.

The CELLIANT fine mineral powder is a natural blend of IR-generating bioceramic minerals. Printed on the tape’s surface, it converts body heat into full-spectrum infrared energy. This delivers improved cellular oxygenation where tape is applied, bringing more oxygen to the cells and increasing local circulation. Thus, KT Tape PRO Oxygen premium kinesiology tape is super-charged to support muscles and joints through physical activity.

KT Tape PRO Oxygen was designed to allow athletes pushing their physical limits to optimize athletic performance while staying healthy. KT Tape PRO Oxygen’s elasticity allows for a full range of motion that rigid tapes do not and helps to lift the skin for a temporary increase in local blood flow. PRO Oxygen incorporates high strength water-resistant adhesive and ultrabreathable PRO synthetic fibers making it one of the most durable kinesiology tape products on the market.

The diabetic community has always been a priority for Hologenix, creators of CELLIANT® infrared technology, so the company embarked on an initial study to test the hypothesis that the technology can positively impact diabetic patients with vascular impairment, now published in Journal of Textile Science & Engineering. Another study is underway as well with more research on the horizon.

According to statistics cited in the International Diabetes Federation Diabetes Atlas, 9th edition, globally, close to a half billion people are living with diabetes and that number is expected to increase by more than 50 percent in the next 25 years.
 
The introduction of the study in the Journal of Textile Science & Engineering also reports that diabetic patients frequently suffer from a combination of peripheral neuropathy and peripheral artery disease, which particularly affects their feet. It further states that it has been estimated that the lifetime risk for the development of foot ulcers in diabetic patients can be as high as 25 percent and that the risk of amputation is 10 to 20 times higher than in non-diabetic subjects.
 
The study was performed by Lawrence A. Lavery, D.P.M., M.P.H., a Professor in the Department of Plastic Surgery at UT Southwestern Medical Center. His clinic and research interests involve diabetic foot complications, infections and wound healing, and he participated in the conception, design, implementation and authorship of the Journal of Textile Science & Engineering study.  

CELLIANT technology is a patented process for adding micron-sized thermo-responsive mineral particles to fibers, in this case polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fibers. The resulting CELLIANT yarns were woven into stockings and gloves containing either 82% CELLIANT polyester, 13% nylon and 5% spandex or for the placebo, 82% polyester with no CELLIANT, 13% nylon and 5% spandex. CELLIANT products absorb body heat and re-emit the energy back to the body as infrared energy, which is non-invasive and increases temporary blood flow and cell oxygenation levels in the body.

The objective of the study was to “evaluate changes in transcutaneous oxygen (TcPO2) and peripheral blood flow (laser Doppler, LD) in the hands and feet of diabetic patients with vascular impairment when CELLIANT gloves and stockings are worn.” While there was not a statistically significant result across all subjects, the study did show that some patients wearing CELLIANT stockings for 60 minutes had an increase of as much as 20% in tissue oxygenation and 30% in localized blood flow. According to the study’s conclusion, “the trends that were observed in favor of CELLIANT stockings suggest that a larger well-designed clinical trial should be undertaken and may provide evidence of clinical efficacy in treatment of the diabetic foot.”
 
The study also notes that “There have been no documented or observed side effects of wearing CELLIANT stockings, and they are relatively inexpensive compared to conventional pharmaceutical interventions.”

Hologenix has embarked on a more comprehensive trial, “Study to Evaluate CELLIANT Diabetic Medical Socks to Increase Tissue Oxygenation and Incidence of Complete Wound Closure in Diabetic Foot Wounds” – NCT04709419, which focuses on the impact of CELLIANT technology to potentially improve tissue oxygenation and wound healing outcomes.
 
“We are excited to explore whether future studies of infrared, with its most common biological effects of increased localized blood flow and cellular oxygenation, could result in a breakthrough in diabetic patients with vascular impairment,” said Seth Casden, Hologenix Co-founder and CEO. “We see a huge potential opportunity with this research for helping to fulfill our core mission of improving people’s health and well-being by potentially reducing the impact of diabetes, and we are actively seeking partners to expand our research efforts.”

On 30 March 2022, the European Commission presented its vision for the future of the textile industry. The strategy mainly focuses on reducing the environmental footprint and promote sustainability and transparency in the value chain.

EURATEX has welcomed the publication of the strategy, as it recognises the strategic importance of the European textile industry, and its core competitive values of quality and creativity. At the same time, the association has warned that translating that vision into reality is a delicate process, as the industry needs to reconcile sustainability with competitiveness. Making the green (and digital) transition should make companies stronger; the benefits should outweigh the costs.

This premise had a serious blow by the Russian war in Ukraine, which erupted at almost the same time when the strategy was launched, and has dramatically changed the economic context. Energy prices increased by a factor of 10 (!), putting the European industry at a significant disadvantage with its global competitors, leading to company shutdowns or relocations. Extended lock downs in China and defensive trade policies in the US and elsewhere have further generated uncertainty on the market and disrupted supply chains.

Today, one year after its publication, EURATEX remains carefully optimistic about the implementation of the strategy, but needs to warn against some important pitfalls on the road ahead.

1. Despite these turbulent times, the Commission is moving ahead “swiftly” in translating their EU Textile Strategy into (draft) legislation. At present, at least 16 pieces of legislation are on the table, which will turn the textile industry into a strictly regulated sector. The quality of this new regulatory framework is critical to the success of the strategy: upcoming rules need to be coherent, technically feasible and enforceable, and have a minimal cost for SMEs. EURATEX calls for a realistic timetable and “competitiveness test” for each piece of legislation before it is adopted.
2. Textile companies need to be informed and supported to comply with this new framework. This requires substantial funding which should be earmarked exclusively to the sector, covering areas of innovation and digitalisation, skills development, support to start ups and internationalisation, as well as access to affordable energy. In this regard, EURATEX calls on the Commission to translate the current “good intentions” into concrete decisions.
3. The EU strategy will not work if there is no demand for sustainable textiles, both from individual consumers and public authorities (procurement). Concrete measures need to be taken to offer a competitive advantage to sustainable and high quality textile products, e.g. through a different VAT rate, strict procurement rules, closer cooperation between the brands/retailers, producers and consumers.
4. The EU strategy could also fail, if the global dimension of the textile industry is ignored. Up to 80% of clothing products are produced outside the EU; these products need to comply with the new framework, but it remains unclear how to ensure that level playing field. Market surveillance needs to be stepped up massively – also targeting on line sales – but this would require significant efforts from member states, which are not available as of today.

Despite these important challenges, EURATEX remains committed to the successful implementation of the EU Textile Strategy. Director General Dirk Vantyghem commented: “We want to be a global leader in sustainable textiles, building on the entrepreneurship, quality and creativity of nearly 150,000 European textile companies. Creating this new framework is an incredible challenge, requiring a close dialogue between the industry and the regulator. But if well designed and carefully implemented, it can set a new era for the European textile industry”.

A little over three years have passed since RadiciGroup announced the acquisition of Zeta Polimeri, an Italian company headquartered in Buronzo (VC) with over 30 years' experience in the recovery of pre- and post-consumer synthetic fibres and thermoplastic materials. Today, the company has become a full member of the Group with its new name Radici EcoMaterials Srl.

The new company’s long-standing know-how, combined with RadiciGroup’s as a whole, will create a virtuous production system that recovers worn-out materials (fabric, yarn and granules), or otherwise unusable materials, and processes them into raw materials available for other production cycles by taking advantage of industrial synergy.

Radici EcoMaterials is a strategic production site because it handles all the preliminary recovery stages: the sorting, processing and pre-treatment of materials, including those used for the production of post-consumer yarns and engineering polymers. In this sense, Radici EcoMaterials is in line with the most recent European policies on sustainable textiles, which address minimizing the share of materials destined for disposal sites, favouring instead more structured recycling solutions.

Radici EcoMaterials is also GRS certified. GRS certification ensures the complete traceability of its materials, which are made in a safe plant that meets the highest environmental and social certification standards.

The company is also equipped with a photovoltaic system and, for the portion of its energy needs not covered by the photovoltaic source, it partially relies on renewable energy. The goal is to use 100% green energy in the next few years, in accord with RadiciGroup's goals.

• Sales increase of 12.8% to €1,135.9 million
• EBITDApre improves by 23.4% to €172.8 million
• Net financial debt reduced from €206.3 million to €170.8 million
• Fiscal 2023 expected to be investment and stabilization year

SGL Carbon was again able to improve sales and earnings in fiscal year 2022 following 2021. All four business units contributed to this success.
Sales in fiscal 2022 increased by 12.8% year-on-year to €1,135.9 million (previous year: €1,007.0 million). The rise in sales was mainly due to both volume effects and the successful implementation of pricing initiatives to compensate higher raw material, energy and transport prices. At 23.4%, adjusted EBITDA (EBITDApre) improved at a higher rate than sales and amounted to €172.8 million in fiscal 2022 (previous year: €140.0 million). Increased sales and the associated higher capacity utilization also contributed to the improvement in earnings, as well as focusing on market segments with higher margin potential.
 
Earnings development of SGL Carbon
The increase in EBITDApre by €32.8 million to €172.8 million was mainly driven by the Graphite Solutions business unit (+€30.6 million). The Composite Solutions (+€7.9 million) and Process Technology (+€5.2 million) business units also contributed to the improvement in profitability. Although the Carbon Fibers business unit was able to offset the loss of a lucrative supply contract with an automotive customer in terms of sales with new orders from the wind energy sector, but these sales showed a significantly lower margin level. Accordingly, EBITDApre of this business unit decreased by €11.2 million to €43.2 million (previous year: €54.5 million).

Taking into account net one-off effects and non-recurring items of €8.9 million (previous year: €30.7 million) and depreciation and amortization of €60.8 million (previous year: €60.3 million), reported EBIT amounted to €120.9 million (2021: €110.4 million). This corresponds to an increase of 9.5%.
As a result of the pleasing business performance, the successes of the transformation and non-operating one-off effects and non-recurring items (€8.9 million), a positive Group’s net profit of €126.9 million (previous year: €75.4 million) was achieved in 2022. It should be noted that consolidated net income includes tax income of €31.3 million (previous year: minus €6.2 million). This development is mainly due to valuation adjustments on deferred tax assets amounting to €41.8 million, based on the good business development combined with positive earnings prospects in the USA. Current tax expenses amounted to €11.4 million in 2022 (previous year: €11.9 million).
 
Net financial debt and equity
In fiscal 2022, net financial debt was reduced significantly by 17.2% to €170.8 million compared with the end of 2021 (€206.3 million). The main reason for the decrease is the repayment of financial liabilities in the amount of €29.0 million. Free cash flow decreased from €111.5 million to €67.8 million in 2022. In this context, it should be taken into account that in the previous year, free cash flow included cash inflows of €30.6 million from the sale of land not required for operations.
After 2021, the equity ratio increased again to 38.5% at the end of 2022 (previous year: 27.0% I 2020: 17.5%). Due to the significantly improved earnings situation, the return on capital employed (ROCE) also rose from 8.0% in the previous year to 11.3% in 2022.
 
Development of the business units
As the largest business unit with a share of Group sales of around 45%, Graphite Solutions contributed €512.2 million to Group sales in 2022 (previous year: €443.6 million). The 15.5% increase in sales is based in particular on the positive development of the important market segments Semiconductor & LED and Industrial Applications. Compared to the previous year, sales to customers in the semiconductor & LED industry increased by 49.6%, driven in particular by increasing demand of materials and components for the production of silicon carbide-based high-performance semiconductors. Combined with the increase in sales, GS EBITDApre improved by 34.8% to €118.5 million (previous year: €87.9 million). Accordingly, the EBITDApre margin increased from 19.8% to 23.1%. Volume effects due to higher sales as well as margin effects from the product and customer mix had a positive impact.  Especially the higher sales with customers from the semiconductor industry should be taken into account.

In fiscal 2022, the Process Technology (PT) business unit benefited from the good order situation in recent months and increased its sales by 21.9% to €106.3 million. The main clients of the PT business unit are customers from the chemical industry. The positive development of PT is also reflected in EBITDApre which rose from €4.7 million in the same period of the previous year to €9.9 million. Higher capacity utilization and the successful passing on of increased raw material costs led to an improvement in the EBITDApre margin from 5.4%  to 9.3% in 2022. Energy costs play only a minor role at PT.

In the reporting year, sales of the Carbon Fibers (CF) business unit increased by 3.0% to €347.2 million (previous year: €337.2 million). It should be noted that CF had to absorb the scheduled expiry of a supply contract with an automotive customer at the end of June 2022. These sales were offset by orders from the wind industry and Industrial Applications. However, EBITDApre in the CF division decreased by 20.7% year-on-year to €43.2 million (previous year: €54.5 million). This earnings development is mainly attributable to the expiry of the high-margin automotive contract. In addition, a special effect from energy derivatives in the amount of minus €9.2 million impacted CF earnings in the 1st quarter of 2022. However, the implemented energy price hedges enabled the business unit to maintain its production capability throughout the entire fiscal year, that the weakening of earnings was mitigated.
The Composite Solutions (CS) business unit confirmed its upward trend in fiscal 2022 with a 25.0% increase in sales to €153.1 million (previous year: €122.5 million). The most important market segment for the CS business unit is the automotive industry. In line with the highly positive business performance, EBITDApre of CS increased by 65.3% to €20.0 million (previous year: €12.1 million). This figure also includes non-recurring positive effects of €3.7 million from compensation payments received from automotive customers for premature project terminations.

The non-operating Corporate segment contributed €17.1 million to Group sales (previous year: €16.5 million). In line with continued strict cost management as part of the transformation, EBITDApre improved slightly to minus €18.8 million (previous year: minus €19.2 million).

Outlook
"If we summarize our expectations for the 2023 financial year, it can be summed up under the guiding principle: -invest and stabilize," CFO Thomas Dippold comments on the forecast for 2023.
For the fiscal year 2023 we continue to expect solid demand for our materials and products. In particular, we expect that the demand for special graphite products for high-temperature processes, e.g. in the semiconductor, solar and LED industries, will continue to increase. On the other hand, the first-time full-year effect from the expiry of a supply contract with an automotive customer in the carbon fiber segment and the sale of our business in Gardena (USA) will burden sales development.

"The increasing demand for high-performance semiconductors for electromobility or renewable forms of energy will also boost the demand of components made of graphite for the production of these semiconductors. To benefit from the related opportunities, we will expand our production capacities in this segment and invest a double-digit million amount in 2023 . Based on existing supply relationships, we will implement this investments partly together with our customers," explains CEO Dr. Torsten Derr.
On the cost side, we expect energy and raw material prices to remain at a high level in 2023, along with significant wage increases. Our forecast implies that higher factor costs can be partially passed on to customers through price initiatives.
Based on the assumptions described, we expect Group sales to be at prior-year level and EBITDApre to be between €160 million and €180 million in the financial year 2023.
In the medium term (until 2027), we anticipate a further improvement in our EBITDApre margin between 18% and 19%.

RadiciGroup presented Biofeel® Eleven, a yarn of natural origin, at the Performance Days trade fair (from March 15-16 in Munich). Biofeel® Eleven is sourced from castor oil and is suitable for obtaining bio-polymer. It can be used for fabrics and fine garments in many sectors, from fashion to sports, from automotive to home textiles.

Today, 80% of the world's castor-oil plantations are in India, particularly in the Gujarat region, due to its favourable climatic conditions. In this area, local people can earn an additional income by cultivating semi-arid land that does not compete with food production, and by applying the skills they have acquired over time to this work. Over the years, thanks to research, development and innovation in the value chain, the seeds from which the oil is produced have been selected and certified to ensure the finest quality, also in terms of end uses.

Castor beans contain around 45% oil, rich in ricinolein, from which the bio-polymer polyamide 11 is derived. This is the polymer RadiciGroup uses for its Biofeel® Eleven yarn. What remains after the first pressing is a highly effective bio-fertiliser that is returned to the soil.

Biofeel® Eleven can also be solution dyed, i.e. dyed at the yarn production stage, saving a great deal of water and energy and also providing greater colour stability.

• Revenue rose to EUR 2.57 bn, while EBITDA declined to EUR 241.9 mn
• Implementation of EUR 70 mn cost reduction program proceeding according to plan
• Largest investment program in the company’s history including the lyocell plant in Thailand and the pulp mill in Brazil implemented on time and within budget
• Outlook: Lenzing expects EBITDA in 2023 to be in a range of EUR 320 mn to EUR 420 mn

The Lenzing Group was increasingly affected by extreme developments on the global energy and raw material markets in the 2022 financial year, in tandem with most of manufacturing industry in Europe. The market environment also deteriorated significantly in the third and fourth quarters, while worsening consumer sentiment placed an additional burden on Lenzing’s business growth.

In the year under review, revenue increased by 16.9 percent year-on-year to reach EUR 2.57 bn, primarily as a result of higher fiber prices. The quantity of fiber sold decreased, while the quantity of pulp sold rose. In addition to lower demand, the earnings trend particularly reflects the increase in energy and raw material costs. Earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and amortization (EBITDA) decreased by 33.3 percent year-on-year to EUR 241.9 mn in 2022. The net result for the year was minus EUR 37.2 mn (compared with EUR 127.7 mn in the 2021 financial year), while earnings per share stood at minus EUR 2.75 (compared with EUR 4.16 in the 2021 financial year).

Outlook
The war in Ukraine and the tighter monetary policy pursued by many central banks to combat inflation will continue to exert pressure on the global economy. The easing of China’s zero-Covid policy could lead to an unexpectedly rapid recovery. However, the IMF has warned that risks remain high overall and projects growth of 2.9 percent in 2023. Exchange rate volatility looks set to continue in regions that are important to Lenzing.

These challenging market conditions are also continuing to weigh on consumer confidence and sentiment in the sectors relevant to Lenzing. The outlook has improved slightly of late, with inventory levels returning to normal across the value chain. Nonetheless, subdued demand remains a source of concern for market players.

Inventories in the bellwether cotton market have diminished recently, although they remain above pre-pandemic levels. A decline in crops is foreseeable in the current 2022/2023 harvest season. The sharp rise in prices on the energy and raw material markets will continue to pose significant challenges for the market.

Overall, earnings visibility remains restricted.

In structural terms, Lenzing expects a continued rise in demand for environmentally friendly fibers in the textile and clothing industry, as well as in the hygiene and medical sectors. Thus, with its “Better Growth” strategy, Lenzing is very well positioned and will continue to drive growth in specialty products, while pursuing its sustainability targets including the transformation from a linear to a circular economy model.

In light of these factors and assuming a further market recovery in the current financial year, the Lenzing Group expects EBITDA in 2023 to be in a range of EUR 320 mn to EUR 420 mn.

The 17^th edition of the WOW will take place July 17-20 2023 at the Atlanta Marriott Marquis in Atlanta, Georgia. INDA announced that registration and tabletop exhibit reservations are open.

WOW 2023 will feature the latest wipes intelligence on the Energy Crisis, Coping with Inflation, Supply Chain Challenges from material availability to import pressures, Market Trends, Plastics Issues such as single use plastics, renegade plastics and microplastics, Sustainability and Traceability from sourcing to end-of-life, Private Label vs. Brand, and Flushability Developments including legislative and labeling efforts, collection studies, and regulatory topics.

The event includes 11+ hours of networking with industry influencers, thought leaders, and C-suite executives. In addition to two nights of tabletop displays and receptions on July 18 and 19, a highlight of WOW 2023 will be Lightning Talks. Tabletop exhibitors will give “supersized elevator speeches” for five minutes. Participants will have the opportunity to follow up with tabletop exhibitors during the reception.

WOW 2023 begins with the WIPES Academy, July 17-18, led by Heidi Beatty, Chief Executive Officer, and her team of wipes professionals from Crown Abbey LLC. Participants will gain insights from product concept to commercialization. Participants will also develop insights about materials, design, manufacturing, packaging, and cost implications for industrial, institutional and consumer wipes applications.

Cotton Incorporated and Rockline Industries are sponsoring the WOW 2023.