From the Sector

Devan, one of the leading companies in sustainable and functional textile finishes, has been working together with Jeanologia, a global leader in sustainable and efficient finishing technologies for textiles, to reduce further water consumption during the application of Devan’s awarded BI-OME® antimicrobial and R-Vital® skincare range.

With increased attention to climate change and limiting excess water consumption in textile production (whether denim or other textiles), Devan and Jeanologia worked together to evaluate the application of Devan finishes onto garments via the patented e-Flow technology.

e-Flow technology can accomplish a considerable number of finishing effects with the highest quality, a minimal amount of water and zero discharge. The technology uses micronization and nebulization to substitute traditional abrasion process and deliver performance chemistry using nano-bubbles instead of water. It reduces the cost of application, saves the amount of water used and ensures that the correct amount of chemistry stays in the garment and not in the water. e-Flow is the perfect fit for every industrial washing machine. This allows mills and brands to apply Devan’s technologies in a more sustainable way than using traditional application equipment, even for smaller production runs and direct onto garments.

“With the global textile production using 4% of the global freshwater withdrawal, here at Devan we are continuously working on more sustainable solutions”, says Dr. Vanessa Daelman, CTO at Devan. “Next to this, we of course highly value sustainable application methods from Jeanologia, like e-Flow, in order to reduce the excess water usage during textile application. We are delighted that we could work together with Jeanologia and establish that Devan technologies can be easily applied via these technologies onto garments or fabrics like denim and with full retention of functionality. This application method also allows post garment treatment of our finishes, for example an antimicrobial treatment onto already finished garments, which will be increasingly important in a more circular textile world where re-use plays an important role”, Dr. Daelman concludes.

ISKO introduces ISKO™ Selvedge – a 21st century reinterpretation of one of the most legendary denim fabrics ever made. Inspired by the history and reverence of original Selvedge denim, ISKO has applied its high-performance patented technologies to develop a new Selvedge range. Available in a wide selection of weights, stretch options and finishes, ISKO™ Selvedge adds flexibility, softness and comfort to a fabric more commonly known for its raw and rigid qualities.

The new ISKO™ Selvedge range preserves the authenticity and many of Selvedge’s hallmarks beloved by true denim aficionados the world over, whilst introducing modern attributes such as sustainability, comfort and wearability, which are guaranteed to make it a favorite of a new generation of denim lovers.

The range includes 19 fabric varieties, with weights spanning from 7.75 to 14.5 oz and elasticity options between 13% – 52% for outstanding recovery and holding power. This variegated array relies on R-TWO™ technology. Certified to Textile Exchange environmental credentials, this platform ensures full traceability, minimizing environmental impact and delivering astounding quality to each solution included in the ISKO™ Selvedge family.

After starting the first "Dibella up" circular-flow concept in August 2020, thousands of high-quality bags have already been made from used hotel textiles. Now the company is presenting another upcycling project: As part of a feasibility study, organic Fairtrade napkins that could no longer be rented out by the company were turned into jeans.

The second "Dibella up" project promises successful recycling of used object textiles. Within the framework of a feasibility study, almost 5,000 discarded napkins were used for jeans production in Pakistan. The special feature of the process is the traceability of the raw materials through all processing stages.

The napkins made of pure organic Fairtrade cotton originated in India. There, the fibres were grown and harvested by micro-farmers of the Chetna cooperative and then processed into durable textiles by a certified company. From Dibella, the napkins went to Lamme Textile Management, where they went through the use process in laundry and catering for many years. All stages were traceable by means of a "Respect Code" with which each piece was marked.

In the recycling project, the original supply chain was reversed: Dibella transported the organic Fairtrade napkins discarded by Lamme Textile Management to Pakistan. There, the goods were shredded and the organic Fairtrade cotton fibres recovered in a full-scale textile plant specialising in sustainability. In the next step, they were mixed with "fresh fibres", spun into yarns for denim production, woven, finished with sustainable processes, subjected to quality tests and then made up into jeans.

Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, and Jeanologia, a world leader in sustainable and efficient technology development, today announced the launch of ‘Pad-Ox G2 Cold’, a water-saving dyeing process at room temperature for casual looks.

Archroma initially introduced its eco-advanced Pad-Ox dyeing process for woven fabrics, and then used it as part of its ADVANCED DENIM concept. By combining the oxidation and fixation steps, it is possible to shorten the dyeing process and thus realize substantial resource savings in water, wastewater, cotton waste, and energy.

Over the years the company has worked with its textile manufacturers and partners to improve the Pad-Ox process, in particular woven applications such as chinos and casual wear. To achieve maximum positive impact, Archroma is using its Diresul® range of low sulfide sulfur dyes and, more recently, its innovative plant-based range of EarthColors®. A wide selection of dyes from these two ranges have received the Cradle-to-Cradle Product Innovation Institute’s Platinum Level Material Health Certification.

Meanwhile, Jeanologia has been working on the technology side, with laser and eco-finishing solutions for more than 25 years, accompanying the textile industry on their way to producing with zero discharge. In 2008, the company introduced its G2 Dynamic the first ozone treatment for continuous fabric that dramatically reduces the amount of water and chemicals used, while at the same time saving costs at the mill and eventually at the garment finishing facilities. This technology makes fabric more stable and consistent and prepares the fabric better for the use of other technologies like laser. This machinery can be used along with Pad-Ox technology to help cleaning fabric thus improve fastness results. While it allows process to work at room temperature.

Project focus on water saving
Archroma and Jeanologia therefore understandably decided to team up and combine their expertise in sustainable dyeing and finishing technologies. The objective of the project was to improve the Pad-Ox dyeing process even further, in particular in one area that still offered room for positive impact: temperature and fastnesses.

The new ‘Pad-Ox G2 Cold’ dyeing process works thanks to the insertion of very small machinery into the existing finishing range process, using cold processing and thus operating with much less water, carbon footprint and energy than traditional benchmark fabric finishing processes, whilst retaining the water and other resource savings offered by the Pad-Ox technology.

Maximum savings can be achieved by mills and garment manufacturers who wish to switch from a conventional dyeing process straight to ‘Pad -Ox G2 Cold’ to obtain high quality fabrics for comfortable and casual wear.

• Mostafiz Uddin, Managing Director of Denim Expert Limited and Founder of Bangladesh Apparel Exchange (BAE) has won Sustainable Fashion Champion at the Drapers Sustainable Fashion Awards 2021, which took place virtually on 10 March.

On receiving the award, Mostafiz said he wants to be a game-changer in the apparel industry, leading by example to inspire others to behave responsibly and ethically.

He also dedicated the award to H&M which, he explained, supported his business, Denim Expert, through the pandemic by continuing to place orders He said the loyal support of the Swedish fashion giant almost certainly helped save the livelihoods of 2000 workers at his factory and their 10000 family members. “That’s true sustainability leadership,” he said.

The Drapers Sustainable Fashion Awards recognise steps being made in reducing the fashion industry’s environmental impact and creating fairer working conditions across the supply chain.
Judged by an independent panel of sustainability and fashion retail experts, the awards shine a spotlight on best practice within the global fashion industry.

Covid-19 has presented unforeseen challenges for fashion retailers and brands, but it has also given us all an opportunity to build back better. Forward-thinking fashion businesses know change is not optional, and are embracing their responsibilities and ability to make a difference.

Mostafiz Uddin has been recognised as the Sustainable Fashion Champion 2021 for setting examples in promoting sustainability during the Covid-19 pandemic which broke out worldwide in March last year.
Jill Geoghegan, Acting Editor of Drapers, said: “Despite the challenges thrown up by the Coronavirus pandemic, fashion brands and retailers increasingly recognise that sustainability is a business imperative.”  
“Many businesses continued to invest in cleaning up their supply chains and introducing new models of working, despite the unprecedented trading conditions.

“The Drapers Sustainable Fashion Awards highlight and celebrate these advancements, paving the way for a more responsible future for the industry.” Managing Director of Denim Expert Limited Mostafiz Uddin said: “In the pandemic, my factory Denim Expert Limited kept true to its commitment towards sustainability, despite an extremely difficult trading landscape.

“During the pandemic, I was vocal about the issue of buyer-supplier relationships and, in speaking out, I wanted to champion the cause of suppliers all over the world. Too often suppliers in garment supply chains do not have a voice because they fear that by speaking out, they will be treated unfavourably by brands.

“This was, of course, a risk on my own part but I like to think I stood up for what I think is right and ultimately, I believe progressive brands understood I was coming from a good place. Like them, all I want to see is a fair, ethical and sustainable industry where brands and retailers work in an environment of collaboration, not conflict.”

Mostafiz also had some special praise for H&M. He said: “It would have not been possible for me to support my workers during the pandemic, had my factory not received help from H&M during the unprecedented time. While Denim Expert suffered from huge orders cancellation and orders hold, H&M supported us by placing orders in the pandemic that saved thousands of lives and livelihoods. Therefore, I would like to dedicate this Award to H&M and its CEO Helena Helmersson.”

The judges of Drapers Sustainable Fashion Champion Award 2021 have been Kerry Bannigan, Founder, Conscious Fashion Campaign; Sarah Ditty, Global Policy Director, Fashion Revolution; Miriam Lahage, Founder, Aequip; Samata Pattinson, CEO, Red Carpet Green Dress; Caroline Rush, Chief Executive Officer, British Fashion Council; Lucy Shea, Group CEO, Futerra; Jane Shepherdson, Chairman, My Wardrobe HQ; and Dilys Williams, Director, Centre for Sustainable Fashion.

• Major Monforts denim customers continue to pioneer new initiatives that are pushing the boundaries of sustainable production.

Recycling their cotton waste has become one way these companies can do more with less, and at the recent Kingpins24 Flash online event, Sedef Uncu Aki, director of Orta, headquartered in Istanbul, Turkey, announced a new partnership with leading recycling operation Gama Recycle.

Traceable
“Through this local partnership we will supply the waste from our spinning mills and return around 3,000 tons of premium quality cotton back to them,” she said. “We have established a truly controlled and traceable system and partnering with a domestic recycling centre is important because a lot the carbon emissions associated with recycling usually come from transportation.”

Orta’s ZeroMax range meanwhile uses no cotton at all, being based on Lenzing’s Tencel cellulosic fibre, while the company’s involvement in denim production for a recent launch by Levi Strauss, of jeans made with organic cotton and Circulose – a breakthrough material developed by re:newcell of Sweden and partners – was hailed as a further step forward.

To make Circulose, re:newcell repurposes discarded cotton textiles, such as worn-out denim jeans, through a process akin to recycling paper. The incoming waste fabrics are broken down using water. The colour is then stripped from these materials using an eco-friendly bleach and after any synthetic fibres are removed from the mix, the slurry-like mixture is dried and the excess water is extracted, leaving behind a sheet of Circulose. This sheet is then made into viscose fibre which is combined with cotton and woven into new fabrics.

Circular Park
Omer Ahmed, CEO of Artistic Milliners also announced plans for his company’s new 70,000 square-foot Circular Park in Karachi, Pakistan, at Kingpins24 Flash.

Once complete, this will add three million square metres of additional denim capacity a month to the company’s production and take its total recycled output to a monthly five million metres.
Ahmed observed that there is currently a lack of sustainable fibres that are readily available to use for denim production at scale.

“Organic cotton is too expensive, and in my opinion always will be,” he said. “Cottonised hemp is also not cheap and it’s hard to mix with cotton, while the new regenerated cellulose fibres that are now emerging are promising, but currently in short supply. Recycled polyester is meanwhile still based on petroleum resources which we want to move away from. As a consequence, there are only a few other options for us as a manufacturer and this new project will help us minimise our own waste while significantly lowering our carbon footprint.”

Other Monforts denim customers to introduce cotton fibre recycling operations at their plants recently include AGI Denim, Bossa and Soorty.

Vertical savings
Refresh is the name of the latest collection from AGI Denim – reflecting the company’s significant reduction in water consumption.

The company has just opened new fibre spinning and denim mills at its complex in Karachi, Pakistan.

“Over the years we’ve gone through a series of backward integration steps to become fully vertical,” said AGI Denim executive director Ahmed Javed, at Kingpins24 Flash. “In our latest expansion, we revisited every step of the production processes in order to make resource savings.”

Innovations have included the installation of proprietary robotics for garment finishing, but the most attention has been paid to water savings.

“Pakistan is one of the largest cotton-producing companies in the world and we’re fortunate that the type of cotton that is grown here is well suited to denim production and also helps us lower our carbon footprint, with everything done in close proximity,” Javed said. “In the lifecycle of a pair of denim jeans, however, cotton fibre production contributes 68% of water consumption. While we cannot control how much water cotton needs for it to grow, we can rethink the way we use it in our factory.”

Refresh-branded denims are washed from 100% recycled water as a result of the company’s new wastewater treatment plant, which puts production wastewater through a series of steps beginning with equalisation, followed by aeration and concluding with sedimentation. The water travels through filtration and ultrafiltration systems before being subjected to an activated carbon system and finally a reverse osmosis system to reduce any dissolved salts.

AGI now recycles 4.4 million gallons of water each month – enough to wash a million pairs of jeans.

Sustainable
Monforts has a leading position in the field of denim finishing with its well proven Thermex continuous dyeing systems, Montex stenter dryers and other lines for resource-efficient and economical processing.

“Our denim partners are constantly setting themselves new goals in respect of sustainable production – and more importantly, achieving them,” says Hans Wroblowski, Monforts Head of Denim. “We work closely with them with the aim of constantly optimising processing parameters and achieving further savings in energy, water and raw materials throughout the dyeing and finishing stages of production.”

The latest Monforts innovation for denim is the CYD yarn dyeing system. This technology is based on the effective and established dyeing process for denim fabrics that is now being applied for yarn dyeing. The CYD system integrates new functions and processes into the weaving preparation processes to increase quality, flexibility, economic viability and productivity. A full CYD line is now available for trials at the company’s Advanced Technology Centre in Mönchengladbach, Germany.”

Intimissimi, a famous lingerie brand, gives an edge of responsible innovation with Tessitura Colombo recycled and plant-based colored ingredients.

Intimissimi, a renowned lingerie brand, constantly engaged in research and development of innovative collections expressed through its performances: for this collection, the lingerie brand has selected made in Italy ingredients of Tessitura Colombo, a lace manufacturer that has always prioritized the protection of the environment and natural resources.

"Nature's dream", coming to stores this spring, is the name of the new line that wants to be inspired by nature and where sustainability is fully integrated throughout premium recycled ingredients and natural plant dyed process. "Nature's dream" is part of the sustainable families of the #intimissimicares collection, that is created to comply with short and long-term sustainability objectives: attention to the usage of natural resources, protection of the environment, control of the supply chain and choice of sustainable fibres.

• AFRY engineering partner when Renewcell expands operations to lead the fashion industry into a sustainable and circular future

Renewcell has awarded AFRY an engineering assignment for their recycled textile materials production expansion at SCA's Ortviken paper mill in Sundsvall, Sweden. The assignment includes project and construction management services, process, mechanical and piping engineering, electrical, automation and instrumentation engineering, fire and HVAC design, as well as civil design. The project is a continuation of AFRY's previous feasibility studies.

The trend in textiles and design requires sustainable fashion. Customers require fashion companies to reduce their environmental impact through new technologies and innovations for the circular economy. One important element is recycling of textile fibers that is a path towards a more sustainable fashion.

Renewcell is a multi-award-winning textile recycling company based in Sweden. The company’s vision is to inspire an Industrial Evolution towards a sustainable world by producing high quality materials from recycled textiles. “There is a way to put fashion first without putting the environment in second place” – Renewcell describes their business concept. With their technology, the company has succeeded in recycling and regenerating textile fiber from old clothes to turn into new clothes. For example, H&M, a partner of Renewcell, has launched a garment that is half made with Renewcell’s fabric.

Today, Renewcell has a demo plant in Kristinehamn, Sweden, with the possibility to recycle over 4,500 tons of textiles each year. The company has now signed a major agreement with one of the world's largest producers of viscose fiber. With that as a basis, together with a well-proven process and technology, they are now building a full-scale production plant in Sundsvall, Sweden. When the new plant is ready for production, it will have the capacity to recycle 60,000 tons of textile waste annually, which is just over half of Sweden's annual textile consumption. The new plant is expected to be commissioned in 2022.

“We are pleased to continue the partnership with AFRY, which began with the feasibility study they delivered in 2020. With AFRY, we feel secure in having a partner with both world-leading expertise and the ability to deliver projects on time and within budget. Together, we lead the fashion industry into a sustainable and circular future,” says Christer Johansson, Project Director at Renewcell.

“We are extremely proud to be part of Renewcell’s investment. We are excited to contribute in this transition towards more sustainable solutions for the future and look forward to continue this journey together with Renewcell,” says Ulf Strenger, Business Unit Manager at AFRY.

In 2020, the number of GOTS certified facilities grew by 34% globally, to a new high of 10,388 from 7,765 in 2019. 16 GOTS Approved Certification Bodies report that over 3 million people in over 72 countries were working in GOTS certified facilities.

Significant increases are seen in all regions. Top 10 countries for certified facilities are India (2,994), Bangladesh (1,584), Turkey (1,107), China (961), Germany (684), Italy (585), Portugal (449), Pakistan (391), USA (167) and Sri Lanka (126).
GOTS approved chemical inputs now number 25,913, an increase of 13% in 2020. This confirms that these inputs are increasingly used as a risk management tool by wet processors to satisfy legal and commercial residue requirements.

“The exceptional increase in this unprecedented year shows that decision makers value GOTS as an important tool to drive sustainable transformation in a comprehensive way - from field to fashion. Using organic fibres and processing them under strict GOTS criteria definitely provides a credible and strong base for market players to be successful in the future” says GOTS Managing Director Claudia Kersten.

GOTS version 6.0, to be implemented from 1 March 2021, includes stricter social and environmental criteria. Certified Entities will now have to calculate the gap between wages paid to 'Living Wages'  and will be encouraged to work towards closing this gap. Specific references to OECD Due Diligence Guidance and Good Practice Guidance for Social Criteria and Risk Assessment as well as Ethical Business Practises have been explicitly included.

Intelligently designed clothes made with the latest manufacturing technology are the results of the partnership between on of the leading denim innovators ISKO and the Italian brand HIGH. A project, part of the SS2021 HIGH collection, is the start of collaboration in the pursuit of sustainable fashion.

Aimed at bringing a positive change both for the planet and its people, the project presents two pieces – jacket and pants – which embody HIGH’s approach to creativity and production: a wellbalanced mix of specialists’ expertise and a tireless investigation on the latest and most responsible fabric technologies. HIGH identified the R-TWO™ program as the right fabric ingredient, ideal to level up sustainability in its looks.

Relying on a blend of reused and recycled materials, this revolutionary platform works by embedding material circularity into the production process, designing waste out of the system and minimizing impact at scale. With fully traced reused cotton coming from ISKO’s production loss, which is prevented from becoming waste by adding it back into the spinning process, and an efficient use of polyester materials which are spun into newly recycled fibers, the program can provide certified to Textile Exchange environmental credentials. According to the percentage of material contained, these can be either the Content Claim Standard, Global Recycled Standard, Organic Content Standard or Recycled Claim Standard, ensuring better use of raw materials and resource efficiency while providing advanced concepts that don’t compromise on their look and performance.

Additionally, to meet HIGH’s performance needs, ISKO has brought to the table one of its most popular technologies, of course in its R-TWO™ version: Jeggings™, super-stretch denim technology. Soft and lightweight as leggings, it provides comfort with the look of authentic denim and provides the perfect, responsible solution to usher the partnership.