From the Sector

• Product innovations, thought-leadership and the new certifications.
• A set of strategic green actions, aimed at increasing transparency and traceability in the company and throughout the industry.

Garmon Chemicals relaunches its commitment to an increasingly green and transparent use of chemicals. The new goal for the company, which in January 2018 has become part of the US Kemin Industries group, is to embark on an actual journey towards sustainability, integrating product innovation with increasingly distinctive strategic actions.

There are three main innovations spearheading Garmon’s commitment. The partnership with the ground-breaking project Alliance for Responsible Denim in the exclusive workshop “Doctor Visits”, held in London June 12. The new ISO 14001:2015 and ISO 9001:2015 process certifications.  The innovative “Stretch Care” collection which features a whole package of eco-compatible solutions, specific for finishing in the world of stretch fabrics.

In partnership with Alliance for Responsible Denim for the “Doctor Visits” workshop
On June 12, in London, the stage was set for “Doctor Visits” an event-workshop organized by Alliance for Responsible Denim focusing on the dissemination and promotion of best practices for sustainable manufacturing. The meeting was dedicated to six selected denim brands, which had a chance to meet the greatest experts in the finishing of indigo fabric.

Garmon Chemicals made available its inimitable experience as technical partner for finishing, as well as conducting team sessions with the Jeanologia staff, a leading company for eco-sustainable technological solutions. The six brands brought the finishing recipes of their Never out of Stock styles, to receive support and recommendations from the experts about the most innovative alternatives in terms of sustainability. The goal was to show the brands new possibilities to migrate towards more responsible finishing, improving their recipes as well. This was a way to reaffirm how ecodriven innovations can also increase finished product quality.
 
The new ISO certifications: increasingly high standards
Garmon Chemicals is also pleased to announce that it has been awarded two important certifications for compliance with ISO international standards as regards safety, reliability and quality. Reference is made here to ISO 9001:2015, a certification which sets international criteria for quality management systems, and most notably, to ISO 14001:2015, a standard acknowledged worldwide stipulating all requirements for an environmental management system. This certification, in particular, helps organizations improve their environmental management performance levels through a more efficient use of resources as well as by reducing production waste. Indeed ISO 14001:2015 mandates that an organization should take into account all aspects relevant to its core business. Amongst assessed parameters there are: air pollution, managing water resources and discharge, waste management, soil contamination, mitigation and adjustment to climate change, as well as an efficient use of resources.

These certifications, once again, provide evidence of the constant commitment on the part of Garmon for an increasingly sustainable use of chemicals, aimed at truly reducing its impact on humans and the environment.
    
A commitment which comes to life in the new “Stretch Care” collection
Introduced on the occasion of the Kingpins exhibition in April 2018, the new “Stretch Care” collection is a line of products completely dedicated to enhancing the qualities and performance of stretch fabrics. The special formulations developed for this line, with their cutting-edge raw materials, are especially suited for treatments with a high eco-compatibility rate; at the same time they optimize the production process. It is worth mentioning in particular the innovative Geopower NPS (= no pumice stone), a compound which helps eliminate pumice stone from denim washings, thus reducing environmental costs and impacts. Another ground-breaking product is Avol Oxy White, the innovative bleaching agent designed to achieve localized effects on denim. Thanks to its composition it is an ecologically advanced product whose environmental impact has been reduced to a minimum, a real challenge to the use of potassium permanganate which tends to be pervasively used as part of industrial processes.

“We firmly believe in developing sustainable chemistry” – concludes Donald Mulazzani, Marketing and Business Development Director at Garmon Chemicals – “not only in terms of product, but also as evidence of our responsible approach on several levels. In this way, we want to contribute to disseminating what will need to be the best practices in the future, for the whole industry”.

Wolford is recognized for high quality Skin wear and is a favorite among fashion influencers. Wolford realizes that when it comes to luxury, consumers expect brands to be responsible. In response, Wolford understands sustainable luxury is a new brand ingredient and are dedicated to expanding their collections each season and infusing responsible materials.

This July at Interfiliere, gain a sneak peek into the launch of Wolford’s Aurora collection of leggings and pullovers that are Cradle to Cradle gold certified, first one in the world! The new styles created use premium stretch yarn belonging to the ROICA™ Eco-Smart family, the world’s first yarn awarded Cradle2Cradle Material Health Gold Level Certificate and Hohenstein Environment compatibility certification, which provides evidence of compliance and offers confidence as a responsible choice. In addition to premium stretch yarn from ROICA™ Eco-Smart family, the Aurora pieces are made using two other responsible fibers, Lenzing Modal® a cellulosic fiber derived from sustainable forestry, and infinito® by Lauffenmühle, a specially modified oil based biodegradable polymer.’

Instead of using new materials, Wolford’s new collection is developed to return the ingredients back to the cycle, they simply borrow them for the lifetime of the product, which supports responsible product ingredient sourcing. At the end of the Aurora collection product lifecycle, Wolford will return them to an industrial composting station to naturally breakdown without releasing harmful environmental substances. Wolford is committed to becoming part of the solution and activating change as they continue to explore responsible material innovations.

Be sure to attend Première Vision NY Smart Talk on July 17th, 2018 at 2:00p to meet to Wolford’s own Andreas Roehrich, Director, Product Develoment & Innovation to discuss technology and Wolford’s quest to become a responsible luxury brand.
 

Exhibitors from over 30 countries participating at Kenya's Biggest Int'l. Multi-Sector Trade Exhibition

The largest international trade exhibition in Africa for multi-sector products, equipment and machinery will take place at KICC, Nairobi, Kenya from 04 - 06 September with record breaking numbers. Exhibitors and trade visitors are said to increase by 27% and 24% respectively at the 21st edition of the Kenya International Trade Exhibition (KITE). The exhibition has grown in stature from its inception 22 years ago, as the key networking and sourcing platform for the industries. As the largest event of its kind, it ensures direct access to over 150 exhibitors from 30 countries and more than 12,000 trade visitors.

With an amazing array of products and services from all over the world, it gives visitors the opportunity to source cutting edge products and services as well as learn about and discuss the latest market trends. There is no other related trade exhibition in East Africa that delivers the same quality, quantity and variety of buyers and distributors.

Concentrating on some of the largest growth categories within the multi sector industry, Kenya International Trade Exhibition (KITE) 2018 has five distinct sub categories, namely: FOODAGRO, MEDEXPO, PPPEXPO & INDUSMACH which will cover the food, hotel & agricultural sectors, medical & pharmaceuticals, plastic, printing & packaging sector, the industrial and finally the consumer sector. Being centrally located, Kenya emerges as one of the largest importers in Africa. Kenya also has the largest economy in east Africa and is a regional financial and transportation hub.

Linen, uniform and facility services operators certified Hygienically Clean Healthcare presented evidence today to members of the Association for Professionals in Infection Control and Epidemiology (APIC) that medical care facilities should more carefully control public wearing of employee uniforms.

Engaging visitors to the Hygienically Clean exhibit at APIC’s 2018 expo, certification staff had a receptive audience for the data. Most attendees interviewed indicated they support preventing employees from wearing scrubs and other healthcare apparel outside medical facilities. Many said they have policies to this effect but find these difficult to enforce.

The 3-day APIC exhibit is building awareness of Hygienically Clean certified providers among infection preventionists: individuals who recommend what linen and uniform service their facilities should use. Discussing issues with them such as uniform hygiene positions certified operators as the foremost laundry science experts with an unprecedented commitment to educating healthcare professionals regarding linen and laundry.

Visitors to the Hygienically Clean exhibit received Curbing the Infection Risks of Healthcare Garments, a brief compendium of studies and journal articles that point to the risk-reduction value of professionally laundering employees’ garments, worth the additional cost to a healthcare facility that currently makes employees responsible for washing them.

Hygienically Clean staff noted that TRSA, the global association for the linen and uniform industry that administers the certification program, has begun planning to raise the issue’s profile with healthcare industry stakeholders. TRSA’s Healthcare Committee has formed a task force on the matter. Staff has contacted TRSA associate members (suppliers to the industry) who manufacture scrubs, lab coats and other healthcare employee garments to explore promoting a new voluntary standard that would urge medical providers to prevent wearing these in public.

An Association of Perioperative Registered Nurses (AORN) standard currently performs this role regarding garments worn in surgical suites. TRSA will weigh the possibility of supporting creation of a much broader measure, covering all clinical functions with discernible risk of pathogen transmission from healthcare garments to patients and the public.

As TRSA investigates courses of action, hoping to involve such stakeholder groups, Hygienically Clean certified providers will continue to point to the mounting evidence of the risks of garments carrying pathogens out of healthcare facilities and inadequate domestic laundering bringing them in.

In contrast, contracting with a Hygienically Clean provider, whose processes (laundry practices) are verified and outcomes (product cleanliness) are quantified by third parties, provides maximum confidence that all garments used in a healthcare setting have diminished presence of harmful bacteria. It’s a cost-effective way to essentially eliminate this single risk of infection transmission, unlike so many others that require preventionists to constantly guard against.

California Linen Services of Pasadena, Calif. has been recertified Clean Green, reflecting the company’s dedication to standards for operational efficiency and sustainability. The certification quantifies linen, uniform and facility services’ environmentally friendly performance by confirming an operation launders within TRSA-designated water and energy use thresholds; and verifies use of best management practices (BMPs) in line with the ASTM International environmental laundering standard.
 
California Linen Service’s customers can be assured their reusable healthcare textiles are washed, dried and finished with processes that maximize sustainability and reduce greenhouse emissions. Clean Green certified operations demonstrate significant commitment to conservation and green operations through these BMPs:

• Recovering heat from drained hot water and heat dispersed from the process of warming water
• Recapturing drained water from rinses for reuse
• Using environmentally friendly detergents
• Removing solids and liquids from wastewater
• Solar energy and energy-efficient lighting
• Recycling programs
• Re-routing trucks to save vehicle fuel
• Spill prevention plans

California Linen Service earned the Clean Green certification initially in 2015. The designation is valid for three years at a time. TRSA inspects laundry facilities seeking certification and approves documentation of their water and energy use and BMP deployment through production reports they submit to auditors during the inspections. TRSA’s certification management protocol includes auditor training by the association’s inspection program administrator.
Clean Green aligns with the ASTM International standard, Guide for Sustainable Laundry Practices, which recognizes key criteria for the certification as universal indicators of maximum sustainability in commercial laundry work. ASTM’s review of TRSA BMPs verified these as the most effective and practical techniques for a laundry to achieve green objectives.
TRSA members prompted development of the standard, which was vetted in the sustainability subcommittee of the ASTM Committee on Textiles. Top technical experts, scientists and environmental professionals from outside the linen, uniform and facility services industry reviewed the BMPs. ASTM is the global leader in developing and delivering voluntary consensus standards unparalleled in building consumer confidence in product and service quality.
 
“I applaud California Linen Services for their ongoing sustainability efforts and maintaining the highest standards in their production and delivery operations,” said Joseph Ricci, TRSA president and CEO. “Meeting all the criteria for certification is not easy, but the company is committed to industry-leading processes and technologies.”

Der Arbeitsmarkt gerät in Bewegung. Eine zunehmende Digitalisierung der Industrie soll in absehbarer Zukunft viele Arbeitsplätze vernichten. Gleichzeitig werden aber auch neue Berufsbilder entstehen. Einige zeichnen sich heute schon ab, andere müssen erst noch erschaffen werden.

Wie aber wird sich die Industrie 4.0 auf die bei der Arbeit getragene Kleidung und Persönliche Schutzausrüstung (PSA) auswirken?

Bisher müssen sich Hersteller und Distributeure keine Sorgen machen. Seit vier Jahren steigen die Umsätze in diesem Markt. Der Erfolg geht vor allem auf das Konto der zunehmenden „Fashionisierung“ und Funktionalisierung, die sich die Verbraucher etwas kosten lassen. Dessen ungeachtet werden neue Konzepte notwendig sein, die den Wandel begleiten. Die ersten Anbieter sind bereits mit Lösungen am Markt: Sie entwickeln smarte Berufskleidung und vernetzte Sicherheitssysteme. Diese sind hochpreisiger als klassische Berufskleidung und können dem Markt frische, positive Impulse geben. Auf lange Sicht ist ein weiteres Wachstum daher möglich. Die Branchen-Insider von Marketmedia24 halten eine Zunahme um bis zu 7 Prozent bis zum Jahr 2025 für machbar, wie die jetzt veröffentlichte Studie „Branchen-REPORT Berufs- und Schutzkleidung 2018“ zeigt. Besonderen Grund zur Freude haben Online-Handel und Mietservice: beiden wird ein weiter ansteigender Vertriebsanteil prognostiziert.

Die seit vier Jahren anhaltend gute Branchenentwicklung hat verschiedene Ursachen. „Dazu zählen in erster Linie ein zunehmendes Sicherheitsbewusstsein, die optische und funktionelle Aufwertung der Kollektionen, die unausweichliche Auseinandersetzung mit Nachhaltigkeit und die vermehrte Gleichberechtigung des Angebots für Männer und Frauen. Jeder dieser Trends führt unweigerlich zu einer Verteuerung der Bekleidung“, fasst Textilingenieurin, Fachjournalistin und Studienautorin Sabine Anton-Katzenbach (Textilberatung Hamburg) die Entwicklung der Branche zusammen. Abzulesen ist diese Entwicklung an den einzelnen Warengruppen: Herren- und Damenhosen haben deutlich zugelegt. Herrenlatzhosen gehen hingegen langsam zurück, wie die neue Marketmedia24-Studie zeigt. „Arbeitshosen sind inzwischen auch in Damenschnitten erhältlich. Frauen in zahlreichen Berufen sind also nicht mehr auf das für ihre männlichen Kollegen entwickelte Kleidungsangebot angewiesen und können sich getrost von dem „Notnagel Latzhose“ verabschieden. Dadurch verändert sich die Nachfrage: Weg von der Herrenlatzhose hin zur Damenbundhose“, weiß Sabine Anton-Katzenbach.

Neue Impulse setzt auch das Trend-Thema Nachhaltigkeit.

Händler wie Hersteller engagieren sich mit Produkten aus umweltverträglichen Materialien, mit besonders haltbarer, langlebiger Kleidung oder mit sozialen und fairen Fertigungsbedingungen für Ressourcenschonung und Menschenrechte. Der Branchenreport präsentiert erstmals die Aktivitäten verschiedener Anbieter auf ökologischem und sozialem Terrain. Starke Impulse der Bewegung kommen aus den Niederlanden, aber verschiedene deutsche Anbieter ziehen nach. Auf dem Gebiet der ethischen Nachhaltigkeit sind auch viele skandinavische Hersteller aktiv.

Die Distribution von Berufskleidung läuft über diverse Kanäle, von denen der Mietservice der wichtigste ist und zukünftig bleibt. Gewinner ist jedoch der Online-Handel, der inzwischen fast ein Zehntel der Gesamtumsätze auf sich vereint. Insbesondere in ländlichen Regionen überzeugt die 24-stündige Verfügbarkeit der Anbieter. Allerdings kann weder ein Katalog noch ein Onlineshop die Beratungsfunktion eines Fachhändlers übernehmen, weshalb der Kunde diesen Vertriebskanal für die Beschaffung von Berufs- und Schutzbekleidung sowie PSA nach wie vor schätzt. Der Einzelhandel hingegen geht weiter zurück. Die bewährt fundierte Szenarioforschung von Marketmedia24 sieht ein weiteres Wegbrechen von Einzelhändlern: Bis zum Jahr 2025 wird ihr Distributionsanteil unter 4 Prozent sinken. Der Mietservice wird seine Position weiter behaupten und ausbauen. Dabei dürfte auch der Trend der Sharing-Ökonomie eine Rolle spielen: „Das Konsumverhalten hat sich durch die Vernetzung grundlegend verändert“, beschreibt das Frankfurter Zukunftsinstitut. „Man geht nicht mehr Einkaufen und besitzt danach ein Produkt, sondern man nutzt, teilt, bekommt, tauscht. Handeln ist kein linearer Akt mehr. Erfolgreiche Konzepte orientieren sich immer stärker an der Kreislaufökonomie.“

• Clean Green Certified Companies Commemorate Earth Day 2018

U.S. Clean Green certified laundries are marking Earth Day 2018 (April 22) by commending the 250,000+ businesses across the nation that use such certified operations for linen, uniform and facility services.

Selecting a Clean Green certified company reflects concern for maximizing sustainability in a business supply chain. Private- and public-sector organizations who choose such a provider are learning that how their reusable textiles are supplied, laundered and maintained is a factor in their environmental impact.
Clean Green operations use a third party (TRSA) to verify their conservation practices and quantify their compliance with water and energy use thresholds.

Laundered, reusable linens, uniforms, towels, mats and other products provided by the linen, uniform and facility services industry to enhance businesses’ image and provide clean, safe environments for their employees and patrons. Most Americans benefit from the industry at least once per week, either at work or by patronizing restaurants, healthcare facilities, hotels and other retail and service establishments.

Nearly 50 of the industry’s companies are Clean Green certified, serving business customers from more than 150 locations combined nationwide. These launderers work with customers to connect the certification to their efforts to minimize their carbon footprint. Certified operators report to TRSA that customers and prospects ask them about green laundry initiatives. These include environmentally friendly wash chemistry, water reuse and recycling, recapturing heat from hot water headed down the drain and operating efficient delivery routes.

“They are far more likely to inquire about the sum of environmentally friendly practices as opposed to the parts,” observes TRSA President and CEO Joseph Ricci of the industry’s customers. Many document their justification of purchase decisions, though, such as government agencies that profile the winners of contract bids. “Clean Green companies bidding for their work mention the certification in their sales promotion and these profiles reflect it.”

Linen and uniform services conserve water and energy best by using high-capacity, high-efficiency equipment, he pointed out, controlling expenses and thereby aiding efforts to keep service pricing under control. “It is the perfect sustainable business model. Business interests and environmental concerns align. Improving efficiencies reduces costs and reduces the impact on the environment,” Ricci says.

Based on the U.S. Census of the industry’s sales and a TRSA survey of member financial data, the association estimates that nearly 3 million businesses use the industry’s services. Clean Green companies are challenged to capture more of these industry customers. Their collective Earth Day 2018 campaign gives them an opportunity to highlight the extent to which their individual efficiencies have contributed to a nationwide movement. Publicizing their own gains around Earth Day can better qualify and quantify their environmental virtues to encourage detailed comparison with competitors’ efficiencies, Ricci noted.

• Deep Insights into the Multifaceted World of Cotton
• Quality, Innovation and Digitalisation are Crucial

From the 21st to the 23rd of March, the international cotton industry came together in the historic Bremen Town Hall, under the motto "Cotton Insights". More than 500 participants from almost 40 countries came to exchange views on the latest trends in the natural raw material as part of the conference organised by the Bremen Cotton Exchange in cooperation with the Fibre Institute Bremen. The 34th International Cotton Conference provided a varied, in-depth programme which addressed the current and burning issues within the industry.

Summarising his visit to the conference, Kai Hughes, Executive Director of the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC) in Washington said “The Bremen Cotton Conference is unique because it brings the diverse world of cotton together in one place. It is always a great opportunity to learn about the latest innovations, talk to cotton merchants and get an overview of the industry".

Sustainability and Cotton
This year, the conference developed into a whole week of diverse events around the entire cotton supply chain. With the “SUSTAIN” event, which was organised in cooperation with the Weser-Kurier newspaper, it was possible to build a bridge between the issue of sustainability and the end consumer.
With the focus on Africa, the emerging continent, which also has a special significance for cotton, became the centre of attention.

In his opening speech, Henning Hammer, President of the Bremen Cotton Exchange, made it clear that sustainability is also of great importance during the Cotton Conference: "The three pillars of sustainability – the environment, the economy and social issues – were already playing a role in the cotton industry when the word sustainability was far from being on everyone's lips.
Many changes that are being demanded in the sense of responsible agriculture and responsible trade take their time, many are already in the starting blocks and a lot already exists. We have a very alert, active agricultural research worldwide."

The Keynotes
The keynote session, moderated by the journalist Lisa Boekhoff from the newspaper Weser-Kurier, gave participants an overview, with an informative analysis of the current cotton situation. Kai Hughes, executive director of ICAC, emphasised in his keynote address the need to provide credible facts and figures which should be the basis for the entire supply chain. The marketing of cotton and changing consumer habits in a globalised and digitalised world were the subject of lectures by Mark Messura, Cotton Incorporated and Robert Antoshak, Olah Inc. Eugen Weinberg and Michael Alt from Commerzbank took a look at the raw material from a stock market perspective.

Traceability and Digitalisation
Digitalisation is also a cross-cutting issue that runs through the entire supply chain of the cotton industry. In his opening speech, Prof. Axel S. Hermann, Head of the Fibre Institute Bremen, emphasised the importance of digitalisation for the industry. “It enables new approaches in cotton cultivation and textile processing, but also influences consumer behaviour and thus the necessary changes in the textile industry.” The focus is on the status quo of the implementation, as well as the opportunities and risks of digitally controlled, vertically integrated procurement and sales processes and the associated challenges at retail level.

Another current topic is traceability, which is also closely linked to sustainability. More and more buyers want to know whether their suppliers are meeting the promised sustainability criteria for their products, also textile products. Consequently, the conference presented various techniques for testing the authenticity of a cotton provided in the finished textile, such as DNA testing, fingerprint analysis technique, marker methods and block-chain processes.

Cotton Quality
In addition to current subjects such as digitalisation and traceability, questions of cotton quality have traditionally been an essential element of the Cotton Conference, which was further reinforced this year with the "Spinners Seminar". The spinning mill seminar, which was carried out by the Cotton Exchange and the Fibre Institute in cooperation with the ITMF and IVGT associations, far exceeded expectations.

More than 70 participants discussed the handling of impurities in supplied cotton in the manufacturing process.
In addition, in a high-level expert session, there was an exchange of the latest research results which determine the future of cotton production and the processing of cotton into innovative products.

What Keeps Consumers Up at Night?

Climate change appears to be a bigger concern for consumers than recent media reports may have indicated. In the ground-breaking, global, quantitative consumer survey, “The Key to Confidence: Consumers and Textile Sustainability—Attitudes, Changing Behaviors, and Outlooks”, commissioned by the OEKO-TEX® Association in commemoration of its 25th Anniversary, climate change ranked third on a list of sixteen modern day worries on the minds of today’s consumers.

“The Key to Confidence” online study was conducted earlier this year with a worldwide sample of more than 11,000 clothing and home textile consumers. Designed and administered by global brand and sustainability research expert, Ellen Karp of Anerca International, the extensive study explored a broad assortment of consumer attitudes about textile sustainability including harmful substances, the industry’s environmental impact, and the social welfare of textile workers.

Prior to answering questions about clothing and home textiles in particular, consumers responded to several queries to gauge their attitudes about sustainability in general. To understand the relative importance of climate change, consumers were asked to pick the top five issues that worry them most from a list of sixteen political, economic, personal, and global problems. “Terrorism” ranked first with 49% of consumers listing it in their top 5, “illness and disease” was second with 42%, and “climate change” rated third with 41%. “My personal finances” came in fourth at 37%. “Opportunities for my children in the future” and “the political leadership in my country” tied for fifth with 31% each.

“Climate change has become a significant issue for consumers,” Karp concludes. “Erratic weather patterns, mounting scientific data, escalating political debate, and first-hand experience with environmental degradation combine to make climate change more of an immediate threat than people considered it to be just a decade ago.”

“For twenty-five years, OEKO-TEX® has helped reduce the use of harmful chemicals and increase sustainable manufacturing practices in the global textile supply chain,” says Anna Czerwinska, Head of Marketing and Communication at OEKO-TEX®. “Our certified clients are industry leaders in the production of compliant, high quality textiles that are tested for harmful substances and responsibly made with respect for the environment and employees. They will be well positioned to capitalize on the growing consumer demands for sustainable textile products.”

A webinar with Ellen Karp presenting the research findings can be viewed at https://rebrand.ly/oekotexTKTCweb. To learn more about “The Key to Confidence: Consumers and Textile Sustainability—Attitudes, Changing Behaviors, and Outlooks”, please contact Trish Martin at t.martin@oeko-tex.com or Anna Czerwinska at a.czerwinska@oeko-tex.com. Read more about the OEKO-TEX® portfolio of testing, certification, and label products at: www.OEKO-TEX.com