From the Sector

The Portuguese Textile and Apparel Association (ATP) is promoting the national textile industry at Expo 2025 Osaka with the installation TEXTILE LIVE – Draping with Sustainable Materials, made in Portugal, featured in the Portugal Pavilion under the theme Ocean, The Blue Dialogue.

This international initiative celebrates innovation, environmental responsibility, and the heritage of the Portuguese textile and clothing industry, highlighting materials and processes developed in Portugal that respect ecosystems and place sustainability at the heart of creative practice.

From 12 to 15 June, the thousands of visitors of the Portuguese Pavilion everyday, namely the Multiuse Room (with doors opening directly onto the Expo grounds), will be able to watch and witness an unprecedented live work action by 15 young Japanese designers and one Portuguese designer, on textile materials made in Portugal based on the pillars of sustainability and environmental responsibility.

In collaboration with three Japanese fashion schools - Osaka Institute of Fashion, Marronnier College of Fashion Design and Kobe Bunka Fashion College - art, tradition and innovation, in the form of draping work on busts also made from sustainable materials, will show the world the creative potential of our most eco-friendly materials.

This live draping performance will take place twice a day, one in the morning and another in the afternoon. In addition, visitors will also be able to see a photo exhibition in which Portuguese textiles materials are “interpreted” through the beauty and talent of top Portuguese models from past generations. The experience is further enriched by a miniature doll’s installation, the Marias Paperdolls by Cláudia Oliveira and an informative video that explains the sustainable processes behind the materials on display

Altogether, these elements offer more than enough reason for high anticipation around the event, which aims to reaffirm the active role that Portugal’s textile and clothing industry is playing in positioning itself at the forefront of the Circular Economy.

Curated by Paulo Gomes, the installation highlights textile solutions made in Portugal with:

• Natural wool and linen, responsibly sourced and rooted in traditional craftsmanship.
• Bio-based artificial fibers, derived from food industry by-products.
• Recycled synthetic fibers, including polyester from PET bottle waste.
• Seaweed-based finishes, which reduce water consumption and create unique effects.
• Natural and eco-friendly dyes, with environmentally conscious processes.

The result is a living dialogue between tradition and innovation, Portugal and Japan — where textiles become a medium of artistic expression and a symbol of an industry in transformation.

ATP extends its gratitude to all those who made this installation possible — especially the Portuguese companies Albano Morgado, Burel Factory, Lemar, Positive Materials e Trimalhas; the curator Paulo Gomes; the designer Renato Luiz; and the 15 Japanese fashion students from the Osaka Institute of Fashion, Marronnier College of Fashion Design, and Kobe Bunka Fashion College and AICEP.

ATP further acknowledges the valuable contributions of Cláudia Oliveira (Marias Paperdolls); the volunteer interpreters Kazuha Toriyama and Ayu Adachi; photographer Sorin Opait; models Elsa Correia, Isabel Sousa, Milene Veiga, and Telma Santos; Rui Guimarães (graphic materials); Liliana Alves (video production); and the team from Saiunion Co., Ltd (mannequins), as well as the support of our sponsors, Aquitex and Mind.pt. With this action, ATP reinforces the positioning of the Portuguese Textile and Apparel Industry as a global benchmark in sustainable innovation, presenting itself to the world through art, design, and the matter that defines them: textiles made in Portugal – FOR A BETTER WOLRD.

Der Bundesverband Medizintechnologie (BVMed) kritisiert, dass die angekündigten US-Zollmaßnahmen bislang keine Ausnahmeregelungen für Medizinprodukte vorsehen. „Zölle und Handelsbeschränkungen für medizinische Produkte stellen einen Bruch mit der bisherigen Praxis dar, Medizinprodukte aus humanitären Gründen von handelspolitischen Maßnahmen auszunehmen“, so BVMed-Geschäftsführer und Vorstandsmitglied Dr. Marc-Pierre Möll. Der deutsche MedTech-Verband fordert daher, MedTech-Produkte und wichtige Komponenten von allen geplanten Zoll- und Handelsbeschränkungen auszunehmen.

Medizinprodukte aus Deutschland sind von den aktuell eingeführten US-Zöllen auf EU-Produkte in Höhe von 20 Prozent betroffen. Viele MedTech-Unternehmen verbauen in ihren Produkten zudem Komponenten aus Stahl und Aluminium, was sie direkt dem erhöhten Steuersatz von 25 Prozent aussetzt.

„Die eingeführten Zölle haben voraussichtlich erhebliche Auswirkungen auf die deutsche Medizintechnik-Branche“, befürchtet der BVMed. Die USA sind einer der wichtigsten Exportmärkte für deutsche Medizintechnikprodukte. Die Zölle könnten zu erhöhten Kosten für Hersteller und Endverbraucher führen, Lieferketten destabilisieren und den Marktzugang für essenzielle Medizinprodukte erschweren. Schon jetzt ist die Branche mit einer Vielzahl von Herausforderungen konfrontiert, wie etwa Lieferkettenunterbrechungen und Preissteigerungen bei Rohstoffen. Die Zölle könnten diese Probleme weiter verschärfen und zu einer Erhöhung der Produktions- und Endverbraucherkosten führen.

„Wir fordern sowohl die US- als auch die EU-Seite auf, Medizinprodukte als essenzielle humanitäre Güter nicht in handelspolitische Auseinandersetzungen einzubeziehen. Die Branche ist auf reibungslose, globale Lieferketten angewiesen, um die kontinuierliche Versorgung mit lebenswichtigen Produkten sicherzustellen. Zölle gefährden diesen freien Warenverkehr und treiben die Kosten für die Branche in die Höhe. Medizinprodukte sollten daher nicht durch direkte oder indirekte Zollmaßnahmen belastet werden.

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), National Chamber of the Textile Industry (CANAINTEX), and Canadian Textile Industry Association (CTIA) issued a joint statement urging President Donald Trump to reach a deal with Mexico and Canada to avoid imposing 25 percent tariffs on imports from these countries and to close the de minimis loophole immediately.

“All three of our countries are partners in a vital textile and apparel coproduction chain that generates $20 billion in two-way trade and helps support over 1.6 million jobs under the United States-Mexico-Canada Agreement (USMCA) — a trade deal that was negotiated during President Trump’s first term in office,” the associations said.

The U.S. textile industry ships $12.3 billion, or 53 percent, of its total global textile exports to Mexico and Canada. Those inputs come back as finished products to the United States under the USMCA.

Mexico exports $9 billion in textile and apparel to the United States. Mexico is the 4th largest exporter of textiles and the 6th largest exporter of apparel to the United States.

Canada exports approximately $1.8 billion in textiles and apparel to the United States and Mexico, with the United States being the destination for 64 percent of its total global textile export, including high-quality flame-resistant materials and medical equipment including PPE.

“While we fully support President Trump’s efforts to stem illegal migration and to address the fentanyl crisis as quickly as possible, we urge the administration to refrain from imposing penalty tariffs on imports from USMCA partners. We are focused on ensuring a normalized trading relationship between our countries,” said NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas. “Imposing penalty tariffs on imports from critical U.S. free trade agreement (FTA) partners will only serve to benefit China and other Asian countries that don’t play by the rules and to harm the U.S. textile industry and manufacturers in our Western Hemisphere supply chains.”

“As part of any deal with Mexico, Canada—and China—we also call on the Trump administration to end the de minimis tariff exemption immediately for imports from all countries. This loophole in U.S. trade law, which allows imports valued at $800 or less to enter the United States duty-free hurts our textile and apparel industries, rewards countries like China, and helps facilitate the flow of illegal and toxic products, such as fentanyl and fentanyl precursors into the U.S. market,” Glas added.

“Despite steps taken by our countries to prevent the importation of goods that are undervalued, made with forced labor or transshipped, we have seen firsthand how the Asian market has gained an unfair advantage through predatory trade practices, displacing companies and workers in our industries and undermining our critical coproduction chain,” said Rafael Zaga Saba President of CANAINTEX.

“Canada is seeking to preserve our strong coproduction chain with Mexico and the United States which spurs investment, trade and employment in our three countries,” said Jeff Ayoub, Chairman of the Board of CTIA. “These additional tariffs would harm our industries and workers, and we urge President Trump stop these expected tariffs from being imposed.”

“We look forward to working closely with the Trump administration and continuing to educate officials about the adverse impact of penalty tariffs on imports from Western Hemisphere countries and de minimis on our industries and workers, while highlighting the critical nature of our strong coproduction chain, which contributes to our overall investment, job growth, and economic stability,” the associations jointly added.

NCTO is a Washington, DC-based trade association that represents domestic textile manufacturers.

• U.S. employment in the textile and apparel supply chain was 501,755 in 2023.
• The value of shipments for U.S. textiles and apparel was $64.8 billion in 2023.
• U.S. exports of fiber, textiles and apparel were $29.7 billion in 2023.
• Capital expenditures for textiles and apparel production totaled $2.27 billion in 2021, the last year for which data is available.

CANAINTEX is a Mexico City-based trade association representing Mexican textile producers.

• The textile industry in Mexico provides over 1.1 million jobs.
• Mexican textile exports are projected to reach 9 billion USD in 2024.
• Mexico is the 4th largest exporter of textiles and the 6th largest exporter of apparel to the United States.
• One out of every three pairs of pants sold in the U.S. is made in Mexico.
• With 36% domestic content in its exports, the textile industry generates the highest value-added of any manufacturing sector in the country.

CTIA represents domestic textile manufacturers across Canada, advocating for policies that support innovation, sustainability, and growth in the sector.

• The Canadian textile industry employs approximately 30,000 textile and apparel workers.
• The total value of shipments for Canadian textiles and apparel was approximately C$7.5 billion in 2023.
• Canada exported approximately US$2.66 billion in textiles in 2023, with 64% (US$1.71 billion) going to the United States.

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) announced the appointment of Katherine White as the organization’s new Vice President of Policy, effective February 18, 2025.

As Vice President of Policy at NCTO, Katherine White will work on critical policy priorities to the U.S. textile industry and provide expertise and support to the association’s extensive lobbying efforts in D.C.

“We are excited to welcome Katie to NCTO,” said NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas. “Her extensive expertise and ongoing engagement with the U.S. textile industry is instrumental in advancing our advocacy agenda and supporting this vital industry.”

“I am thrilled and grateful to have the opportunity to contribute to NCTO’s advocacy on behalf of the U.S. textile industry,” White said. “The textile industry is a critical, strategic manufacturing sector and a key contributor to our national defense and the overall U.S. economy. I look forward to working with the NCTO team and our textile association members to advance priority issues and opportunities that impact the industry’s competitiveness and growth.”

White recently served as the U.S. Trade Representative’s (USTR) Chief Textiles and Apparel Negotiator and previously served on the House Ways and Means Committee as an International Trade Policy Advisor.  

In her roles at USTR and on the Ways and Means Committee, White worked specifically on trade policy matters, including de minimis and customs enforcement, and helped shape U.S. trade laws. She also participated in the negotiation, implementation, and enforcement of U.S. trade agreements, including the United States-Mexico-Canada Agreement (USMCA).

Further, White has worked closely with the textile and apparel industry during the development of trade legislation on Capitol Hill.

She has also previously worked at the International Trade Administration at the Department of Commerce and at the White House on the National Economic Council.

White is a North Carolina native and earned a Master of Public Policy from Duke University and Bachelor of Arts degrees in Political Science and International Studies from the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill.

Last week, the White House announced that President Joe Biden would not implement a tariff rate quota on imports of fine-denier polyester staple fiber (PSF) in response to a section 201 safeguard case filed by U.S.-based fiber producers.

The President announced an import quota only on imports of fine-denier PSF under the temporary importation under bond (TIB) program, which is predominately used in woven textiles and apparel and is not expected to impact nonwovens.

President Biden opted not to implement a tariff rate quote or other measures that were recommended by the U.S. International Trade Commission citing that other industries, including nonwoven manufacturers, would be negatively impacted by such actions, President Biden’s proclamation stated that:

“While the USITC Commissioners recommended that I impose a tariff-rate quota on fine denier PSF imports, I have determined not to do so…[t]herefore, I have decided to tailor this safeguard remedy to TIB entries of fine denier PSF. Furthermore, I have determined not to impose a tariff-rate quota on imports of fine denier PSF in the interest of balancing the competing interests of domestic fine denier PSF manufacturers and the impact of the safeguard remedy on downstream United States producers, including manufacturers of textiles, defense products, and consumer products, that rely on fine denier PSF.”

This decision comes after several U.S.-based nonwovens producers commented to the White House Trade Policy Staff Committee and the USITC that the nonwovens industry would be harmed by actions that would raise the costs of fine-denier PSF. INDA submitted comments outlining the concerns of many nonwovens producers. Government affairs director Wes Fisher testified before the Trade Policy Staff Committee at the Office of the U.S. Trade Representative hearing on September 30th.

National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) President and CEO Kim Glas issued the following statement on news of the passing of Congressman Bill Pascrell (D-NJ).

Statement by NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas:

"The entire U.S. textile industry is mourning the loss of Congressman Bill Pascrell (D-NJ), a true leader and advocate for critical manufacturing policies aimed at bolstering the domestic supply chain and confronting ongoing threats from predatory trade practices.

We commend his significant contributions – not just to the U.S. domestic industry—but for American manufacturers and workers everywhere.

Rep. Pascrell had served as co-chair of the House Textile Caucus with Rep. Patrick McHenry (R-NC) since 2013 and was an ardent fighter for the U.S. textile industry and beyond.

In April, Congressman Pascrell championed a bill titled the Import Security and Fairness Act led by Rep. Earl Blumenauer (D-OR) that would exclude all Chinese imports from de minimis treatment, as highlighted in our blog post on a House Ways & Means markup.

He also penned an op-ed with Congressman McHenry highlighting the urgent need to drive investment and for onshoring and nearshoring textile and apparel production and to not weaken the critical U.S. and Central America  Dominican Republic-Central America Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA-DR)..

In addition, he co-sponsored legislation aimed at strengthening the American PPE supply chain which would expand the Berry Amendment to nearly all federal purchases of PPE.

As is evidenced above, Congressman Pascrell took on every policy battle in support of U.S. textiles and manufacturing in general as an unwavering supporter of maintaining and expanding a vital domestic manufacturing chain.  He worked closely with Rep. McHenry on critical textile issues to advance the cause for our domestic industry and its workforce.

He will be missed deeply by the industry and to all who knew him. We extend our gratitude to a manufacturing warrior and express our condolences to the entire Pascrell family and his staff team."

National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) President and CEO Kim Glas issued the following statement welcoming the introduction of the bipartisan “Protecting American Industry and Labor from International Trade Crimes Act,” a bill that aims to combat trade fraud and hold those committing the crimes accountable.

Statement by NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas:
“We commend Chairman John Moolenaar (R-MI) and Ranking Member Raja Krishnamoorthi (D-IL), who lead the House Select Committee on the CCP, along with Congresswoman Ashley Hinson (R-IA) and others for introducing this bipartisan legislation that will put real teeth into combatting trade crimes that are undermining American textile and apparel manufacturers.

“NCTO has called for additional federal tools and resources to urgently address the pervasive trade crimes impacting our industry as well as other U.S. manufacturing sectors. We are pleased that this legislation will do exactly that by establishing a formal structure within the Department of Justice’s Criminal Division dedicated to aggressively prosecute international trade crimes.

“The U.S. textile and apparel supply chain has been severely harmed by rampant trade fraud, including an onslaught of imported products made with forced labor, which circumvent the U.S. ban on these imports, fraudulent rules of origin claims under our free trade agreements, and evasion of duties through abuse of the de minimis trade loophole. This had resulted in the closure of 18 textile plants over the past several months and job losses, combined with closures in Western Hemisphere trade partners who have suffered tens of thousands of job losses.

“We believe this bipartisan legislation is a critical step forward in confronting such massive fraud and will serve to hold bad actors accountable and help shield our vital domestic industries from these crimes.”

Fashion for Good launches the Sorting for Circularity USA report unveiling significant findings from the project. A first of its kind in the US, the report delves into consumer disposal behaviour, textile waste composition, and the potential for fibre-to-fibre recycling within the country. It provides insights for making informed decisions for further investments, infrastructure development and the next steps towards circularity.

The U.S. Textile Waste Landscape
The United States is a global leader in textile consumption and waste generation, positioning itself as one of the largest sources of secondary raw materials for post-consumer textile feedstock. Despite this, only 15% of the textile waste generated in the US is currently recovered, with 85% ending up in landfills or incinerators.

With the impending policies in the European Union and certain American states, alongside commitments from both public and private sectors to promote fibre-to-fibre recycling, there is a growing demand for infrastructure related to post-consumer textile collection, sorting, and recycling.

Addressing Data GPS
In the pursuit of establishing a functional reverse supply chain and the necessary infrastructure, two critical areas lack data  – consumer disposal behaviour, and material characteristics of post-consumer textiles. The Sorting for Circularity USA project addressed these gaps through a comprehensive national consumer survey and waste composition analysis.

The survey revealed that 60% of respondents divert textiles, while 4% discard them, driven primarily by factors such as condition and fit. On the other hand, the waste composition analysis unveiled that over 56% of post-consumer textiles are suitable for fibre-to-fibre recycling, with cotton and polyester being the most prevalent fibre types, indicating a substantial potential for these textiles to be used as feedstock for mechanical and chemical recycling processes.

The project revealed a $1.5 billion opportunity for fibre-to-fibre recycling by redirecting non-rewearable textiles from landfills and incinerators to recycling streams. The report outlines growth strategies for the US textile recycling industry, emphasising enhanced financial value through efficiency improvements, increased commodity valuation, and policy mechanisms like extended producer responsibility schemes. Collaboration among stakeholders is crucial, including brands, government, retailers, consumers, collectors, sorters, recyclers, and financial institutions, to promote circularity, invest in research and development, and advocate for supportive policies and incentives to drive technological innovation. This redirection of textiles towards recycling underscores the substantial economic potential of embracing circularity in the textile industry.
 
There is an opportunity to build on these insights and assess the feasibility of different sorting business models and (semi) automated sorting technologies to create a demo facility suitable for closed-loop textile recycling. Ultimately, evaluating the commercial and technical feasibility of a semi-automated sorting process and identifying investment opportunities to scale solutions nationwide.

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), representing the full spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber through finished sewn products, held its officer elections for fiscal year 2024 at its annual meeting April 9-11.
NCTO has elected Charles Heilig, President of Parkdale Mills, as Chairman; and Chuck Hall, President and CEO of Barnet, as Vice Chairman.

In addition to the appointment of a new chairman and vice chairman, NCTO elected chairs for each of its five councils. NCTO is comprised of five councils to ensure a broad representation of the industry supply chain. Each council has an allotted number of members who are elected to the association’s Board of Directors, in addition to the Executive Committee.

Elected as NCTO Chairman and Vice Chairman for 2024:

• Chairman – Charles Heilig, President of Parkdale Mills based in Gastonia, North Carolina, a leading American manufacturer of yarn and cotton consumer products.
• Vice Chairman – Chuck Hall, President and CEO of Barnet based in Spartanburg, South Carolina, a 125-year-old manufacturer of technical textiles.

Elected to the NCTO Board of Directors:

• Fiber Council – David Adkins of Lenzing; John Freeman of Nan Ya Plastics; and Melissa Stewart of The LYCRA Company
• Yarn Council – Justin Ferdinand of Kentwool; Peter Iliopoulos of Gildan; Eddie Ingle of Unifi; Eric Noe of Buhler Quality Yarns; Marvin Smith of Shuford Yarns; and Jay Todd of Service Thread
• Fabric and Home Products Council – David Smith of Milliken & Company; James McKinnon of Cotswold Industries; Blake Millinor of Valdese Weavers; Leib Oehmig of Glen Raven; Dan Russian of Sage Automotive Interiors; and Walter Spiegel of Standard Textile
• Finished Textiles and Apparel Products Council – Marisa Fumei-South of Two-One-Two New York (Alternate: Gabrielle Ferrara of Ferrara Manufacturing)
• Industry Support Council – Todd Bassett of Fi-Tech; Greg Duncan of American Truetzschler; and Jim Reed of YKK Corp.

Elected by their respective Councils to serve on the Executive Committee:
David Adkins, Lenzing; Eddie Ingle, Unifi; Marvin Smith, Shuford Yarns; David Smith, Milliken & Company; James McKinnon, Cotswold Industries; Marisa Fumei-South, Two-One-Two New York; Gabrielle Ferrara, Ferrara Manufacturing; and Todd Bassett, Fi-Tech.

NCTO Chairman Charles Heilig has elected additional executives to serve on the Executive Committee: Anderson Warlick of Parkdale Mills; Norman Chapman of Inman Mills; John Maness of Gildan; Amy Bircher Bruyn of MMI Textiles; and Jackie Ferrari of American Fashion Network.

Elected to chair the Councils:

• Fiber Council: David Adkins of Lenzing
• Yarn Council: Justin Ferdinand of Kentwool
• Fabric and Home Products Council: David Smith of Milliken & Company
• Finished Textiles and Apparel Products Council: Marisa Fumei-South of Two-One-Two New York.
• Industry Support Council: Todd Bassett of Fi-Tech

INDA held an Advocacy Summit in Washington, D.C. in partnership with ISSA’s, The Worldwide Cleaning Industry Association, 2024 Clean Advocacy Summit. Over the course of two days, INDA members took to the nation’s capital to convene, connect, and advocate for issues important to the nonwovens industry, meeting with the staff and elected officials in over a dozen congressional offices.  

A key focus of these congressional meetings was education and support for the passage of the WIPPES Act (H.R.2964 / S.1350), the federal effort to implement consistent national Do Not Flush Labeling standards for non-flushable wipes. They also advocated for the renewal of the Miscellaneous Tariff Bill to provide tariff relief on items without domestic production as well as discussed various trade policy issues.

The advocacy summit portion of the event included panels on Wipes Policy, consumer education, international trade, plastics, and PFAS. Speakers included Dr. Laurie-Ann Agama, Acting Assistant U.S. Trade Representative for Textiles, James Willett, International Economist for the International Trade Administration, Sarah Sapirstein, federal lobbyist for the California Association of Sanitation Agencies, Lara Wyss, President of the Responsible Flushing Alliance, Jason Eberstein of the Plastics Industry Association, and Shawn Swearingen of the American Chemistry Council.