From the Sector

The German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) have modernized and expanded their melt spinning pilot plant with support from the State of Baden-Württemberg. The new facility enables research into new spinning processes, fiber functionalization and sustainable fibers made from biodegradable and bio-based polymers.

In the field of melt spinning, the DITF are working on several pioneering research areas, for example the development of various fibers for medical implants or fibers made from polylactide, a sustainable bio-based polyester. Other focal points include the development of flame-retardant polyamides and their processing into fibers for carpet and automotive applications as well as the development of carbon fibers from melt-spun precursors. The development of a bio-based alternative to petroleum-based polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fibers into polyethylene furanoate (PEF) fibers is also new. Bicomponent spinning technology, in which the fibers can be produced from two different components, plays a particularly important role, too.

Since polyamide (PA) and many other polymers were developed more than 85 years ago, various melt-spun fibers have revolutionized the textile world. In the field of technical textiles, they can have on a variety of functions: depending on their exact composition, they can for example be electrically conductive or luminescent. They can also show antimicrobial properties and be flame-retardant. They are suitable for lightweight construction, for medical applications or for insulating buildings.

In order to protect the environment and resources, the use of bio-based fibers will be increased in the future with a special focus on easy-to-recycle fibers. To this end, the DITF are conducting research into sustainable polyamides, polyesters and polyolefins as well as many other polymers. Many 'classic', that is, petroleum-based polymers cannot or only insufficiently be broken down into their components or recycled directly after use. An important goal of new research work is therefore to further establish systematic recycling methods to produce fibers of the highest possible quality.

For these forward-looking tasks, a bicomponent spinning plant from Oerlikon Neumag was set up and commissioned on an industrial scale at the DITF in January. The BCF process (bulk continuous filaments) allows special bundling, bulking and processing of the (multifilament) fibers. This process enables the large-scale synthesis of carpet yarns as well as staple fiber production, a unique feature in a public research institute. The system is supplemented by a so-called spinline rheometer. This allows a range of measurement-specific chemical and physical data to be recorded online and inline, which will contribute to a better understanding of fiber formation. In addition, a new compounder will be used for the development of functionalized polymers and for the energy-saving thermomechanical recycling of textile waste.

The announcement of a new effluent treatment plant (ETP) marks a milestone in Denim Expert's journey towards sustainability. This upcoming facility is a testament to the company's dedication to reducing its ecological footprint and safeguarding local ecosystems through advanced water management techniques.

The new Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP) being developed by Denim Expert strives for 100% wastewater recycling. As the ETP rises from concept to reality, Denim Expert embarks on a transition towards its next horizon: aligning with the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Wastewater Guidelines Version 2.0.

Denim Expert's proactive approach to sustainability has been recognized on a global scale. The company has been named 'New Champion' by the World Economic Forum and has partnered with organizations such as the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC), the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC), and the Ellen MacArthur Foundation's Jeans Redesign program. As one of the first factories to join the Partnership for Cleaner Textile (PaCT) and in the process of implementing the 3E program, Denim Expert is dedicated to achieving 100% water reuse and full reliance on solar energy, further solidifying its commitment to driving positive environmental change.

Borealis is commemorating its thirtieth year of operations. Born of a merger between Statoil and Neste, Borealis has expanded from its early Nordic roots to become one of the top polyolefins players. Its dedication to value creation through innovation has produced proprietary and transformative technologies which benefit society and accelerate the transition to a circular economy. The company is regularly ranked as Austria's top innovator in the European Patent Index and holds an extensive patent portfolio of around 8,900 granted patents. In Europe in particular, Borealis has for decades bolstered the industrial landscape by investing in its capital assets, and by providing thousands of jobs.

Innovations
Borealis uses technological innovation to add value to polyolefin-based applications, ensure that production processes are made more resource efficient, and to accelerate plastics circularity. Borstar®, the multi-modal proprietary technology for the manufacture of polyethylene (PE) and polypropylene (PP), has been a mainstay of Borealis success since the start-up of the first Borstar PE plant in Porvoo, Finland in 1995. Borstar has since been joined by other technology brands, like Borlink™, an innovation for the power cable industry; Borstar® Nextension Technology, an innovation that among other benefits facilitates the production of monomaterial applications designed for recycling; or the Borcycle™ M technology for mechanical recycling, which breathes new life into polyolefin-based, post-consumer waste, transforming it into applications with a lower carbon footprint.

Global Expansion
With the strong support of its two majority shareholders OMV (Austria) and The Abu Dhabi National Oil Company (ADNOC, UAE), Borealis continues to expand its global footprint. The joint venture Borouge, established in 1998 in the UAE, and listed on the Abu Dhabi Securities Exchange (ADX) since 2022, is one of the largest integrated polyolefin complexes. It is currently the site of the company’s largest-ever growth project: Borouge 4, the new USD 6.2 billion facility in Ruwais, which will serve customers in the Middle East and Asia. In North America, the Baystar™ joint venture, founded in 2017 and operated with partner TotalEnergies, entailed the construction of a new ethane cracker as well as the most advanced Borstar plant ever built outside of Europe. The PE Borstar 3G plant in Pasadena, Texas was started up in late 2023 and has brought Borstar to this continent for the first time. Borealis’ commitment to Europe as a production location is evidenced by the new, world-scale propane dehydrogenation (PDH) plant currently under construction at Borealis operations in Kallo, Belgium.

Re:NewCell AB announced that the Stockholm District Court has decided to approve the previously communicated bankruptcy application and has declared the company bankrupt.

The appointed bankruptcy trustee is lawyer Lars-Henrik Andersson at Cirio Advokatbyrå.

February,25 the Board of Directors had decided to file for bankruptcy of Re:NewCell AB at the Stockholm District Court. The reason for the decision to file for bankruptcy was that Re:NewCell has not been able to secure sufficient financing to complete the strategic review, announced on 20 November 2023, with satisfactory result.

As part of the strategic review, Re:NewCell has had well advanced negotiations with its two largest shareholders, H&M and Girindus, its existing lenders BNP Paribas, European Investment Bank, Finnvera (as partial guarantor), Nordea, AB Svensk Exportkredit and potential new investors as well as other stakeholders regarding long-term financing solutions. These discussions have not resulted in a solution which would provide Re:NewCell with the necessary liquidity and capital to ensure its operations going forward.

"I regret to inform that we have been forced to take this decision to file for bankruptcy. As we have a strong belief in the company’s long-term potential, we have together with our advisors spent very substantial time and efforts into trying to secure the necessary liquidity, capital and ownership structure for the company to secure its future. As part of the negotiations, we have had intense dialogues with both current main owners, new investors and our banks, as well as other stakeholders. However, these discussions have not been successful. This is a sad day for the environment, our employees, our shareholders, and our other stakeholders, and it is a testament to the lack of leadership and necessary pace of change in the fashion industry” says Chairman of the Board of Directors, Michael Berg.

SEEK announces a new and earlier date for the upcoming Spring/Summer 2025 edition. SEEK will take place on the 2nd and 3rd of July 2024. The new platform, THE JUNCTION, connecting the neighboring UNION Showroom at Kühlaus will open its doors from the 30th of June until the 3rd of July. Berlin Fashion Week plans its shows, showrooms and events to take place from the 1st until the 4th of July. The 8th edition of the 202030 - The Berlin Fashion Summit will inform and animate on the same days as SEEK.

"The past few days we have had productive and most importantly very friendly conversations. The result: Your (the industry’s) wish is our command - for the first time Berlin Fashion Week, UNION showroom, 202030 - The Berlin Fashion Summit, THE JUNCTION and SEEK will take place at the same time. Together we want to activate: brands, stores and the city." Marie-Luise Patzelt, SEEK

Freudenberg Performance Materials (Freudenberg) is unveiling a new 100 percent synthetic wetlaid nonwoven product line made in Germany. The new materials can be manufactured from various types of polymer-based fibers, including ultra-fine micro-fibers, and are designed for use in filtration applications as well as other industrial applications.

Customers in the filtration business can use Freudenberg’s new fully synthetic wetlaid nonwovens in both liquid and air filtration. Applications include reverse osmosis membrane support, support for nanofibers or PTFE membranes as well as oil filtration media. The new materials are suited to use in the building & construction industry or the composites industry.
For filtration applications, the new fully synthetic wetlaid nonwovens are marketed under the Filtura® brand.

Versatile and flexible manufacturing
Freudenberg’s fully synthetic wetlaid nonwovens can be made of polyester, polyolefin, polyamide and polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), using staple fibers of up to 12mm fiber length and microfibers as fine as 0.04dtex. In terms of weight, the product range spans weights of between 8g/m² and 250g/m². Freudenberg’s flexible wetlaid manufacturing line has the capability to combine various thermal and chemical bonding technologies. The materials have high precision in weight and thickness as well as a defined pore size and high porosity.

Wetlaid capabilities for various applications
In addition to its fully synthetic range, Freudenberg can also incorporate glass fibers, viscose and cellulose. General industry applications for Freudenberg wetlaid nonwovens are surfacing veils for glass-fiber reinforced plastics, compostable desiccant bags, battery separators, acoustics, heatshields, and apparel applications such as embroidery substrates.

Fibre Extrusion Technology Ltd (FET) of Leeds, UK has appointed Dr Kristoffer Kortsen as Senior Materials and Process Scientist. He will report directly to R&D Manager, Dr Jonny Hunter, who joined FET in early 2023 in a growing Research and Development team.

Kortsen’s main area of work is in Gel Spinning of UHMWPE (Ultra-High Molecular Weight Polyethylene). His contribution will help provide gel spinning expertise and equipment in the near future to a range of industries including medical, aerospace, defence aerospace and marine.

He completed a Master’s in chemistry at KU Leuven, graduating magna cum laude in 2018. For his Master’s placement, he worked on the production of impact modifier additives for PVC at Kaneka Belgium. Continuing a partnership with this international chemical manufacturing company, he joined the Howdle group at the University of Nottingham for a PhD project looking into the industrial potential of scCO₂ dispersion polymerisations for additive production. After graduating, he worked in the Shaver group at the University of Manchester, developing a holistic approach to plastics recycling and sustainability across the many stakeholders in the field.

Highlights Q4 2023 (compared with Q4 2022)

• Revenue in constant currencies up 4% on higher volumes and pricing (reported revenue -3%)
• Operating income improved to €214 million (2022: €103 million)
• Adjusted operating income at €221 million (2022: €126 million); ROS at 8.7% (2022: 4.8%); €244 million before €23 million negative impact from hyperinflation accounting
• Net cash from operating activities positive €574 million (2022: €291 million)

Highlights full-year 2023 (compared with full-year 2022)

• Revenue in constant currencies up 5% driven by pricing (reported revenue -2%)
• Operating income improved to €1,029 million (2022: €708 million)
• Adjusted operating income at €1,074 million (2022: €789 million), despite €77 million adverse
• currency effects from translation; ROS at 10.1% (2022: 7.3%)
• Adjusted EBITDA at €1,429 million (2022: €1,157 million), despite €92 million adverse currency
• effects from translation
• Net cash from operating activities positive €1,126 million (2022: €263 million)
• Net debt to EBITDA leverage ratio improved to 2.7 (2022: 3.8)
• Final dividend proposed of €1.54 per share (2022: €1.54)

Outlook mid-term
For the mid-term, AkzoNobel aims to expand profitability to deliver an adjusted EBITDA margin of above 16% and a return on investment between 16% and 19%, underpinned by organic growth and industrial excellence. The company aims to lower its leverage to around 2 times in the mid-term, while remaining committed to retaining a strong investment grade credit rating.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announced a call for presentations and award nominations for the RISE® (Research, Innovation & Science for Engineered Fabrics) Conference. RISE will be held October 1-2, 2024, at the James B. Hunt, Jr. Library, North Carolina State University, Raleigh, North Carolina. RISE is a two-day conference presenting new research and science that drives innovation and product development. The theme for this year’s event is “The Other Sustainability Story: Extended Use and Reduced Consumption.”

Nonwoven professionals are encouraged to submit their technical abstracts by Friday, April 12, 2024. Topics being considered are raw materials, equipment and processing, product-related technologies, and applications.  Abstracts may be submitted via the RISE website. For questions about abstract submissions, contact Deanna Lovell.

RISE® Innovation Award
In addition, INDA is requesting nominations for innovative nonwoven products and technologies for the RISE® Innovation Award. INDA will consider categories such as raw materials, roll goods, converting, packaging, active ingredients, binders, additives and end products for nominations. This Award recognizes innovation in areas within and on the periphery of the nonwovens industry, utilizing advanced science and engineering principles to develop solutions to problems and advance the usage of nonwovens.

Three finalists will be chosen to present their innovations to technology scouts, scientists, researchers, and industry professionals on Tuesday, October 1st. Nominations may be submitted via the INDA website. The Award submission deadline is July 29, 2024. For questions about the Award, contact Vickie Smead.

Last year, the RISE® Innovation Award was presented to TiHive for their SAPMonit technology.

Nearly 8,000 international visitors came to meet the 1,300 exhibitors at Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris. This year's event was enhanced by a boldly designed showcase in the heart of Paris.
The offer was broader, more diversified and more accessible. Despite increasing requirements in the industry, visitor numbers remained stable. It was on these two objective notes that the latest edition of the Texworld and Apparel Sourcing Paris trade shows for the fashion industry came to a close, held from 5 to 7 February 2024 at the Paris Expo Porte de Versailles. During these 3 days, nearly 8,000 visitors came to meet 1,300 weaving and clothing companies from 25 countries on the two levels of Hall 7 (7.2 and 7.3).

Visitors: a Euro-Mediterranean Top 5
This unprecedented concentration of international companies in Europe, which exceeds in number that of February 2019, is a reminder of the central role of European markets for the global fashion industry. This position is confirmed by the weight of buyers from the Euromed zone in the visitor structure: Top 5 is concentrated around buyers from France (20% of the total, up sharply on 2023), the UK (8.3%), Italy (7.9%), Turkey (7.2%) and Spain (6.8%). This Parisian event is proving to be an essential point of contact between designers, buyers and suppliers of fabrics or finished products.

Making the offer ever more accessible “Despite the slowdown in the clothing market, Europe remains a major market for textile and finished goods manufacturers" explains Frédéric Bougeard, President of Messe Frankfurt France. “For some players, it is becoming a strategic market to offset the uncertainties weighing on the Russian and American markets" he continues. Our mission is to fulfill our role as a market place, to adapt to these changes and to make the international offer more and more accessible." The February event also highlighted near sourcing. Nine Ukrainian companies grouped together under the banner of the Ukrainian Association of Textile and Leather Industry Companies (Ukrlegprom), as well as Bulgarian, Italian and Dutch companies, were able to take advantage of the show's visibility to include their expertise in the sourcing plans of French and European buyers.

Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris, a new name for our trade fairs
Reflecting the adaptation of Messe Frankfurt France's strategy to changes in the market, Texworld Evolution Paris is changing its name to Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris. This move reflects developments in fashion sourcing and the expansion of brand universes. A growing number of buyers now want to be able to select materials, while also sourcing finished products directly to complement collections or expand their range. The new name is accompanied by a new dual baseline - Weaving the future; sourcing I business I solutions - to underline these developments and reinforce the fairs' service-led positioning.

From 1 to 3 July 2024 at Porte de Versailles
This new signature will be fully expressed at the next edition of Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris, including Avantex and Leatherworld, which will take place from 1 to 3 July 2024 in Hall 7 (7.2 and 7.3) of the Paris Expo Porte de Versailles. The show, which will remain the same size and offer a more selective range of products, will reflect this convergence between textiles and finished products. This session will also have no interaction with the Paris 2024 Olympic Games, which are due to open on 26 July, three weeks after Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris