From the Sector

At the Texprocess trade fair in Frankfurt/Main, Germany (May 14th to 17th 2019) VEIT Group will present on more than 400 m² the latest highlights in the areas of ironing, finishing, pressing and fusing in the garment industry as well as automotive and interior sectors.

"Pressing for Excellence" is the corporate slogan of the VEIT Group. In addition, this year's motto at Texprocess is "LOVEIT" which is a wordplay on "love it" or “love VEIT”. In the words of VEIT Group President Günter Veit: “Our motto stands for the passion that we have for the engineering of our products, our love of perfection and our devotion to our customers. This is the basis of their trust in our products. We want to offer our customers value not only now, but also for the future which we believe will be more digital and more sustainable. Both Industry 4.0 readiness, as well as the good of operator and environment are essential components of our product development efforts.”

Among the large portfolio of high-performance technology presented at the trade show, there is a significantly improved shirt finisher SF 26. With the new model SF 26, VEIT manages to further increase both the functionality and the ergonomics of the shirt finisher. For the customer, this optimisation in application technology is reflected in higher quality of the finished product and simplified operation.

Combined with the improved FS shirt folding table series – a highly successful product – VEIT offers true streamlining potential while maintaining high quality levels when folding shirts, blouses and polos in 3 versions.

Reacting to the customers’ demands, VEIT has equipped their popular BX fusing machines – BXT, the universal solution for shirts and outerwear – with a separate feeding belt and a 7” colour operating panel. These changes make the BX fully industry 4.0 ready and helps to further improve the ergonomics and energy efficiency.

In order to increase flexibility in the shaping of textiles, VEIT will present a new solution for high-quality finishing of the elbow seam in the area of BRISAY machines – the BRI 860 VC sleeve seam finish pressing machine. The 8430 universal multiform finisher was enhanced to cover an even wider range of applications. It can now also be used for finishing, among other items, also polos, T-shirts, blouses, blousons and jackets.

In addition to the innovative machine highlights, VEIT has also developed special solutions for customers' investment decisions. "More and more companies that are making investments are not only looking at the purchase price, but rather at the total lifetime cost of ownership," explains Vice President Christopher Veit. VEIT is presenting two interesting offers to meet this trend:
Customers may choose to buy a machine according to the “Pay Per Piece” system, which means that they pay for how much the machine is used, instead of a full up-front investment. This reduces the investment risk and allows more flexible reactions to especially to scalable business opportunities. Alternatively, when purchasing a machine the traditional way, customers can limit operating costs, extend the machine’s lifespan and achieve improved machine availability by signing a service contract. With its global service and partnership network, VEIT Group can offer this service worldwide.

• conceptual and commercial garments presented at exhibition in London

After two years of research Mistra Future Fashion is honoured to present, in collaboration with Centre for Circular Design at University of the Arts London and Filippa K, an exhibition pushing the limits of ‘fast’ and ‘slow’ fashion. Started in 2017, the industry-embedded project Circular Design Speeds takes a unique systemic approach, showcasing what could be accomplished using existing value chains as well as what the future of sustainable fashion holds. Ground-breaking textile research from University of the Arts London is questioning normative use and design of garments in creating prototypes to be worn across a spectrum of 24 hours to 50 years. By implementing research into existing value chains, Filippa K have produced a coat that is 100% recycled and recyclable, as well as a concept dress that is 100% bio-based and biodegradable. The research results and garments will be presented at the launch event at the University of the Arts London, on November 23rd and open to public on the 24th and 25th of November.

On Friday November 23rd the exhibition Disrupting Patterns: Designing for Circular Speeds opens up at University of the Arts London. The exhibition is the results of a two-year research project called Circular Design Speeds aiming at pushing the limits of ‘fast’ and ‘slow’ fashion by testing new concepts for sustainable design in an industry setting. On display are exploratory prototypes, as well as commercial garments produced by industry partner Filippa K using existing value chains. In addition, research results on innovative materials, consumer acceptance, composting studies and Life Cycle Assessments are presented. The aim of this project is to implement research results in a real fashion industry context, focusing on speed of use and maximising fabric value retention in products.

The Service Shirt developed by Professor Rebecca Earley is designed to last for over 50 years. The concept garment explores the multiple complexities, challenges and opportunities associated with design for circular business models in extended use contexts. The Service Shirt was designed as a ‘deliberate extreme’ to have a total lifecycle of 50 years. This lifecycle includes in-house and external remanufacturing processes, as well as various use cycles – often moving between single ownership and rental and sharing contexts. It becomes the lining for a jacket and then crafted in to fashion accessories, before finally being chemically regenerated in the year 2068.

On the opposite side of the spectrum the Fast-Forward concept, developed by Prof Kay Politowicz and Dr Kate Goldsworthy, explores alternative modes of production and use for a sustainable ‘fast-fashion’ application. Advantages with regards to climate impact are enabled through lighter material choices, nonwoven fabric production, no launder, clear routes to recovery and redistributed manufacturing systems. A sliding scale of ‘speed’ from ultra-fast forward through to a more widely accepted length of use, with adaptations to production processes and end of life, is presented. The prototypes are made from a new bio-based nonwoven material co-developed with Dr Hjalmar Granberg at RISE Research Institute of Sweden & University of the Arts London. The composition of the paper is a mix of cellulose pulp and bio-based PLA fibre, making the garment 100% biodegradable or recyclable in existing paper recycling systems.

Working closely with industry partner Filippa K made commercial testing possible. By implementing research into existing value chains, Filippa K was able to produce a coat that is 100% recycled and recyclable, as well as a concept dress that is 100% bio-based and biodegradable. The garments are a part of Filippa K’s Front Runner series and will be available in selected stores on November 26th. With a focus on products’ length of use and maximizing fabric value retention, Filippa K are dedicated to becoming fully circular by 2030.

“Being part of the fashion industry comes with many challenges, especially when considering the fact that we are the second most polluting industry after oil. Our industry needs to change and we believe adapting to circular models, like nature’s ecosystem, is one important solution. We want to be able to offer beautiful clothing and to make business within the planetary boundaries.”
- Elin Larsson, Sustainability Director, Filippa K

To validate the design research presented, a Life Cycle Assessment was performed on the prototypes. Mistra Future Fashion affiliated Dr. Greg Peters, Chalmers University of Technology, together with additional LCA Researchers at RISE, conclude that the production of fibres and fabrics are the main processes impacting the environment during the garment life cycles. Therefore, to extend the lifetime of existing garments and design for re-use, as done in the Service Shirt, is indeed the superior alternative compared to a reference garment.

“Compared with garments of the same mass, the extended life garments represent a large improvement in environmental performance over the reference garments, outperforming the reference garments in all effect categories. This superiority is primarily a consequence of avoiding garment production via reprinting and reassembly of the initial garment to extend its useful life.”
- Dr Greg Peters, LCA Researcher at Chalmers University of Technology

Another way to circumvent the impacts of fast fashion is to develop materials with considerably lower impacts during production, and which also avoid the barriers to recycling faced by conventional garments. Instead of hinder consumers from buying new, the act of acquiring a new garment could in fact be sustainable. The paper-based short life garments considered in this assessment show considerable impact savings when compare to the benchmark garment. Dr. Peters says,

“The paper-based garments benefit from the lower impacts of the material (fibre production, spinning and knitting) compared with conventional cotton, from their relatively light weight and also on account of the lower impacts in garment production and use.”

•    New, sustainable, ready-to-use solutions for plastic auto parts to support China’s electric vehicle boom
•    Stronger, softer nylon polyamide fibers plus fast processing for clothes, carpets & industrial applications
•    AddWorks blends lower total cost of ownership & reduce production complexity while enhancing performance

Muttenz, May 3, 2018 – Clariant, a world leader in specialty chemicals, introduced new additive solutions for plastics materials at Chinaplas 2018.

“Our innovations focus on higher performance at better convenience for a sustainable future,” says Stephan Lynen, Head of Clariant BU Additives. “At Chinaplas 2018 we demonstrated our technical and market capabilities around the theme of e-mobility. The immense changes in mobility call for lighter, safer and smarter vehicles. We offer new additive solutions, such as AddWorks, and technical capabilities to respond to this demand. We are accompanying this with a series of investments such as new production facilities in China.”

Clariant’s new AddWorks solutions – AddWorksATR 146, AddWorks LXR 568 and AddWorks TFB 117 – are specifically aimed at improving performance and efficiency of plastics materials for compounders, polymer and fiber producers in China’s major plastics manufacturing segments. All three solutions are part of the globally available portfolio.

The full AddWorks portfolio consists of differentiated market-specific synergistic additive blends that streamline production processes and create value for customers while enhancing performance. Each solution is customized to specific market needs, underlined by broader considerations such as emission reduction, and less energy and resource usage.

Sustainability and performance for the world’s largest auto market
To support the significant investment in electric vehicles in China, Clariant launched two additive innovations that improve the lifetime of lightweight automotive parts and under-the-hood applications and reduce VOC emissions in an easy to use single solution.

AddWorks ATR 146 is a new low dosage, sulfur-free heat and light stabilizer for filled polypropylene (TPO) compounds used in interior applications. Its exceptional heat and light stability and long term color retention offers the automotive industry unmatched performance. It shows no surface cracking after 700 hours at 150°C, which enables dashboards, instrument panels, door panels and pillars to maintain their aesthetics longer than with traditional stabilizers. It also contributes to reducing blooming and VOC emissions, supporting the common effort to make automotive interiors healthier and odorless.

AddWorks LXR 568 is a high performance processing stabilizer that helps to prevent plastic resins, especially polyolefins, from degradation at high processing temperatures. For the automotive industry, this reduces the tendency of injection molded polypropylene interior car parts to turn brittle during heat exposure, enabling them to maintain a defect-free surface. It also has low migration and low fogging that support healthier in-cab environments.

AddWorks LXR 568 combines outstanding color and melt flow protection with good resistance to hydrolysis and high thermal stability. This makes it ideal for interior and under-the-hood powertrains and wider application areas such as packaging films. It is available in free-flowing pills and micro-pills which are easy and convenient to use.

Softer, stronger polyamide fibers for clothes, carpets and industrial applications
Within the next three years, China is expected to account for 40% of the world’s nylon production and more than 30% of the nylon resin consumed globally[1]. The new AddWorks TFB 117 offers a number of benefits to help stabilize and smoothen fiber production processes, protect color, and improve heat stability and mechanical properties of fibers. AddWorks TFB 117 ensures smooth spinnability with less filaments breakage, even at low processing temperatures and at high speed spinning up to 5,500 m/min.

Martin P. J. John, Head of BL Performance Additives at Clariant, comments: “AddWorks solutions are an ideal fit with China’s priority of achieving more sustainable production. They save time and reduce complexity along the production process, with easy to use formats that reduce health risk and chemical waste. Our new state-of-the-art production facility in Zhenjiang, China, which opens later this year, is dedicated to the manufacturing of AddWorks to deliver innovative solutions tailored to the needs of the market. Made for China in China.

In addition to AddWorks, Clariant presented Exolit® OP 1400, a highly stable non-halogenated flame retardant enhancing safety during the charging process. It also provides outstanding thermal stability for under the hood applications. Exolit OP 1400 has been awarded the Clariant EcoTain® label for outstanding sustainability and performance.  

Clariant also introduced two ranges of performance waxes that smoothen the production of automotive plastics for under the hood applications, Licowax® and Licocare® RBW. The recently launched Licocare RBW is a series of multi-purpose additives based on crude rice bran wax. They offer better shaping flexibility, better mechanical properties and enhanced surface finish, which results in a reduced rejection rate and a more effective dosage.