From the Sector

RHEON LABS, a fast-growing materials technology company based in Battersea, London, has completed an extensive 6 month trial with FET, a world leader in laboratory and pilot meltspinning equipment. Backed by a £173,000 grant from Innovate UK for feasibility studies, RHEON LABS has further developed its RHEON™ technology, a reactive polymer that dynamically stiffens when subjected to force. The technology can control energy of any amplitude or frequency, from small vibrations to forces at ballistic-speeds and therefore has a wide range of applications.
 
This Innovate UK Smart Grant-backed project aims to develop a hyper viscoelastic fibre from RHEON™ which displays high strain-rate sensitive properties. Creating a fibre with unique strain-rate sensitive properties will be a world first. It will enable the creation of a 'breakthrough-generation' of stretch textiles that can actively absorb, dampen and control energy during movement, rather than simply acting as a spring.

For close-fitting activewear and sports bras, the ability to actively control muscle mass or soft tissue movement during exercise will be a game-changing advancement. It will allow brands to engineer garments that relax during everyday use but actively stiffen during exercise for improved support and performance.
The Innovate UK grant was awarded under the category of Hyper-Viscoelastic Fibre Extrusion for Textile Manufacture. Fibre Extrusion Technology Limited (FET) enabled the customer trials at its bespoke Fibre Development Centre in Leeds, England using its in-house FET-103 Monofilament meltspinning facilities, in harness with RHEON and FET technical operatives. The next phase will be to upscale the trials of preferred materials on RHEON’s own new FET-103 meltspinning line, with FET’s continued support and expertise on hand.
 
Creating a fibre with unique strain-rate sensitive characteristics could be as radical a change in the market as the initial introduction of stretch fibre with the launch of Lycra™. The textiles would have a multitude of beneficial properties and would provide significantly less compression in the garment than conventional materials, substantially improving user comfort, support and performance.

• First product development centre in Germany

ISKO has opened its second product development centre, based in Stade, Lower Saxony, following the success of the Creative Room London in the UK which had its opening earlier this year.

Creative Room Germany is a innovative space and the first of its kind in Germany. It is the latest initiative of Creative Room Services (CRS), a division of ISKO devoted to offering streamlined and simplified solutions for all denim requirements – from fabric to finished garment.

With a focus on sustainable washing and finishing techniques, customers of Creative Room Germany will be able to work in parallel with ISKO’s experts to achieve their desired denim looks. Together with machine technology partner Jeanologia, they have been able to develop innovative washing and finishing techniques that meet the highest quality and sustainability standards with a significantly lower environmental impact. Creative Room Germany will also be the central point for its customers full product development, ensuring the whole process is agile and more efficient.

By utilising ISKO’s patented recycling technology, they are now able to develop brand new garments by using fibres from post-consumer denim, finally closing the loop and giving a new and cutting-edge circular supply solution for their customers. As well as a hub for its customers, Creative Room Germany will also act as a platform for the wider denim community to share knowledge, create new and innovative ideas and to bring them to life.

“Building on from the success of our London facility, our goal will be to offer tailor made garment supply solutions for customers in the DACH, Benelux and Nordic markets and this facility will be the focal point of that offering. With a collaborative approach, we will fulfil our vision of bringing a new circular supply solution to the market.”
Pau Bruguera, Executive Director @ ISKO

A Selection of Footwear and Apparel Designed to Raise Awareness and Funding for Breast Cancer Now and National Breast Cancer Foundation, Inc.

• In partnership with the charities Breast Cancer Now (UK/Europe) and National Breast Cancer Foundation (US), the Collection brings together a range of products for running, hiking and mountain biking
• £15/€15/$15 from each full-price sale will be donated to BCN (for purchases in the UK and EU) or NBCF (for purchases in the North America)
• The Collection feature illustrations by adidas pro mountain biker Veronique Sandler, empathetically designed to represent the comfort that those with breast cancer have experienced in the outdoors

Inspired by the experiences of people and communities around the world, including its own employees and athletes, adidas is launching the Breast Cancer Awareness Collection this October.
Available throughout Breast Cancer Awareness Month, the adidas Breast Cancer Awareness Collection sees adidas partnering with Breast Cancer Now in the UK and Europe, and National Breast Cancer Foundation, Inc. in the US, to help raise awareness of breast cancer and support the vital work both charities do.

The products in the Breast Cancer Awareness Collection have been chosen to help everyone, regardless of physical ability or condition, spend more time in the outdoors.
The collection’s focus on functional footwear and apparel that is designed for the outdoors is in keeping with adidas' objective to help broaden access to outdoor sports and help everyone enjoy the benefits of spending time in nature. With United by Summits, adidas TERREX is taking this brand-wise ethos further by encouraging all people, from every background, to realise their own individual goals in the outdoors and enjoy the benefits of adventure, both big and small.

The collection is available for purchase in limited quantities from September 30, 2022 until the end of October 2022 for adiClub members only, and £15/€15/$15 from each full-price sale of the adidas Breast Cancer Awareness Collection will be donated to Breast Cancer Now (for purchases in the UK and EU) or National Breast Cancer Foundation, Inc. (for purchases in North America). The money raised will contribute to the important work these charities are doing.

From 7 - 9 July, the who's who of the fashion industry and the entire fashion ecosystem will finally meet again in person at the events of the Premium Group at Messe Berlin! For business and exchange, for new experiences and impulses, for new brands and above all for one thing: for a new togetherness!

As usual, the trade shows PREMIUM and SEEK as well as the conference format FASHIONTECH are reserved for business professionals - who can find inspiration on site entirely. With the new D2C festival ‘The Ground – Celebration of Style & Culture’, young consumers and fashion enthusiasts from GenZ and GenY as well as the international community living in Berlin are invited to the exhibition grounds for the first time.

More than fashion: 360-degree inspiration at The Ground Festival
At The Ground, industry professionals meet young enthusiasts to inspire each other and discover new worlds. The Ground presents a completely new mix of topics, brands and partners around beauty, music, sport, play, soul and talks. Fashion is the connecting element of The Ground and runs through all areas. Creative and interactive brand presentations meet pre-loved and vintage store pop-ups, inspiring panel talks, sports and mental health workshops and live performances.

In the name of peace and unity: The Ground Festival opened by #FashionUnites Parade
On 7 July, the first The Ground Festival will open with a colourful parade through the capital. Together with the PLATTE.Berlin community, The Ground is organising a parade under the motto #FashionUnites starting at noon from the Victory Column through the west to the festival location of the Berlin exhibition centre. Accompanied by a Berlin DJ, everyone is invited to take part in the parade and can register here and thus also receive free access to The Ground on the first day of the festival.

High-profile charity campaign: The Ground launches 'MUST-HAVE PEACE Merch Collection'
Due to the ongoing war situation in Ukraine, the makers behind The Ground have launched a charity campaign: the MUST-HAVE PEACE Merch Collection. In this exclusive collaboration, players and brands such as Closed, Drykorn, Eastpak, Lala Berlin, Lee and others design one piece of merch each (denim jackets, shirts, shorts, bags) that can be bought during The Ground Festival.

New hub for sustainability: the SEEK Conscious Club
SEEK has always been a magnet for brands and people who have a common vision, tackle things and get them on the road. With the new SEEK Conscious Club, there will be a separate exhibition area focusing on sustainability - more than 80 sustainable brands are joining the club already.

New brand worlds at PREMIUM
This July, PREMIUM will be divided into three sections for the first time: High, Icon and Volume. High is the new home for brands that operate in the market above the premium segment. These include Lala Berlin, Nove, Helene Galwas and Jane Kønig. Icon covers the classic premium segment from Strellson and Seidensticker to Mos Mosh and Denham to Young Poets Society and Fabienne Chapot, and Volume is the new area for commercially successful brands that approach premium from the middle of the market. Here you will find brands like Gerry Weber, Mexx, Pierre Cardin or Miracle of Denim.

The Content Stage program
The stage program will reflect all relevant topics of the fashion ecosystem as part of the new Premium Group cosmos.

• It starts on the first day of the fair, Thursday 7 July, with the popular FASHIONTECH conference.
• On 8 July, the SEEK Conscious Club will host an extensive stage program on the subject of sustainability in all its facets for the first time.
• On Saturday, 9 July, the stage will become the entertainment spotlight for The Ground visitors.

The opening of this facility marks the expansion of ISKO’s Creative Room Services (CRS) division and its dedication to the continuation of responsible production.

ISKO has opened its first product development centre, based in London. Creative Room London is a unique and innovative space and the first of its kind in the UK. It is the latest initiative of Creative Room Services (CRS), a division of ISKO devoted to offering streamlined and simplified solutions for all denim requirements – from fabric to finished garment.

With a focus on sustainable washing and finishing techniques, customers at Creative Room London will be able to work in parallel with experts to achieve their desired denim looks. Together with machine technology partner Jeanologia, they have been able to develop innovative washing and finishing techniques that meet the highest quality and sustainability standards with a significantly lower environmental impact.

The Creative Room London will also be the central point for their customer’s full product development, ensuring the whole process is agile and more efficient. As well as a hub for its customers, Creative Room London will also act as a platform of education and support for the wider denim community, working with local talent and universities to share knowledge and to bring ideas and concepts to life.

ISKO did not miss the opportunity to be a driver for change as the community of fashion leaders gathered at the event “Drapers Sustainable Fashion 2022” on April 21st, in London. Specifically, ISKO’s presence at the event took place through a stand dedicated to the company’s commitment to the development of new processes for better industry practices, and through the participation of ISKO’s head of sustainability, Ebru Ozkucuk Guler, in the panel “Leading the way: exploring denim’s approach to responsible and sustainable manufacturing”.

The company’s technology R-TWO™50+ played a great role in showing how the innovative soul of the company matches its sustainable one. R-TWO™50+ is the driving force behind ISKO’s efforts to reduce the industry’s impact on the planet. The fabrics are made with a minimum of 50% pre- and post-consumer recycled blend that is entirely Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certified. This results in less use of natural resources and a reduced carbon and water footprint of up to 45% and 65% respectively.
Held at main Stage, the panel was a chance to delve into the great strides that the industry has taken to dramatically reduce its carbon footprint through ground-breaking technology, with the speakers stating that “sustainability strategies are essential for the health not only of the planet but also of the industry itself.”

• Revenue Increases to HK$8,316 Million with Net Profit After Tax Surging Significantly
• Recording a Turnaround to HK$381 Million
• Re-Establishes ESPRIT’s Market Leadership

ESPRIT HOLDINGS LIMITED has announced its audited financial annual results for the year ended 31 December 2021, highlighted by a significant increase in both revenue and profit attributable to shareholders of the Company to HK$8,316 million and HK$381 million respectively, in which the profit attributable to shareholders of the Company also recorded a turnaround versus the loss attributable to shareholders of the Company of HK$414 million for the six months ended 31 December 2020. Gross profit margin was 48.6%, 7.0% higher than the Corresponding Period. Please refer to the Company’s results announcement for the Current Year for further details.

Such financial improvement was attributable to various reasons, including (i) the new infrastructure and strategies instituted by the current management team; (ii) improvement in sales with higher gross profit margin; (iii) positive results of efficient cost control measures; (iv) improved inventory management; and (v) growth in E-commerce.

Although revenue in the Current Year was affected by lockdowns in the Company’s major European markets during the first quarter of 2021, and due to increased restrictions on entry requirements into stores during the fourth quarter of 2021, the Group generated revenue via three main channels: E-commerce, wholesale, and owned retail stores. As the ESPRIT brand website and third-party E-commerce partners continued to trade during lockdown, a large portion of the Group’s sales were generated online. This business model allowed it to mitigate some of the negative impacts of the Pandemic in the retail segment. Another driver of growth came from selling fewer discounted products from the Company’s retail business compared to 2020.

The Group has not forgotten the ESPRIT mission and long-standing commitment to sustainability. The Company has continued to work tirelessly towards developing cutting-edge materials that set new standards in terms of environmental sustainability. The Company has formulated and further advanced its ESG strategies to establish ESPRIT as an industry pioneer. Such strategies involve the greater use of sustainable fibers, developing new and innovative product options that support a circular economy, and ensuring environmental awareness is a key message that underpins all of the Group’s projects. To achieve these objectives, the Management has identified four key pillars of growth (Sourcing and Procurement; Marketing and Product; IT, Internet, and E-commerce; and The ESPRIT Brand Story) that are paramount in maintaining the loyalty of existing ESPRIT patrons and attracting new customers.

Looking ahead, the global economy is anticipated to be negatively affected by the lingering effects of the coronavirus pandemic and the conflict in Ukraine. The already unstable logistics industry and disrupted supply chain will likely be further impacted, which in turn will result in higher logistic service costs. Despite the unfavorable global economic outlook, the Group believes that under the leadership of its current management and with the support of dedicated staff members, the Company is on track to ongoing profit growth.

• adidas expects double-digit sales growth in 2022

Major developments FY 2021

•    Currency-neutral revenues up 16% driven by growth in all markets
•    Excellent top-line momentum in EMEA, North America and Latin America with strong double-digit increases in each region
•    Double-digit growth in DTC reflecting improvements in both online and offline
•    Gross margin increases to 50.7% driven by higher full-price sales and better inventory management  
•    Operating margin increases 5.3 percentage points to 9.4%  
•    Net income from continuing operations grows more than € 1 billion to € 1.492 billion
•    Executive and Supervisory Boards propose dividend increase of 10% to € 3.30 per share

Outlook for FY 2022

•    Currency-neutral sales to increase at a rate between 11% and 13%, already reflecting up to € 250 million of risk in Russia/CIS business related to the war in Ukraine
•    Gross margin to increase to a level of between 51.5% and 52.0%
•    Operating margin to increase to a level of between 10.5% and 11.0%
•    Net income from continuing operations to grow to between € 1.8 billion and € 1.9 billion

Kasper Rorsted, CEO of adidas: “Unfortunately, we release our 2021 results in unsettling times. Our thoughts and prayers are with the Ukrainian people, our teams on the ground and everyone affected by the war. We strongly condemn any form of violence and stand in solidarity with all those calling for peace. We also provide immediate humanitarian aid to those in need of support. We will continue to follow the situation closely and take future business decisions and actions as needed, always prioritizing our employee’s safety and support.”

“In 2021, we delivered a strong set of results despite several external factors weighing on both demand and supply throughout the year”, Kasper Rorsted continued. “Wherever markets operated without major disruptions we have been experiencing strong top-line momentum. This is reflected in double-digit revenue growth in EMEA, North America and Latin America. While we continued to invest heavily into our brand, our direct-to-consumer business, and our digital transformation, we improved our bottom-line by more than € 1 billion. Taking it all together, 2021 was a successful first year within our new strategic cycle. In 2022, we will build on this momentum and continue to grow both our top- and bottom-line at double-digit rates amid heightened uncertainty.”

The 48^th INNATEX is opening its doors at the Messecenter Rhein-Main in Hofheim-Wallau from 31 July to 2 August 2021. More than 200 labels are poised to appear at the international trade fair for sustainable textiles. Following a long string of industry gatherings being cancelled due to COVID-19, the summer trade fair is a first opportunity for the sector to get together. All visitors are required to register digitally  in advance of the fair.

The pandemic has presented an opportunity to launch new projects. They include a special zone created in collaboration with GIZ GmbH, the German society for international development, which will shine a light on African designers. 13 labels from Ethiopia, Kenya, Rwanda, South Africa, Tanzania, and Uganda will present their ideas for sustainable textiles and fashion products.

The starting point for the special area is a virtual trade fair, commissioned by the Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development. GIZ GmbH has realised the joint project in cooperation with several partners; its physical extension can be visited at INNATEX.

Exhibitors include well-known pioneers and young newcomers
The IVN (International Association of Natural Textile Industry), which sponsors INNATEX, is staging its own pop-up showroom. In doing so, the association is creating its own curated space, showcasing the diversity and special features of its members. The future objective is to expand this space with the organiser to create a growing Concept Area that introduces visitors to different ways of presenting green fashion.

Besides the IVN, the Global Organic Textile Standard, the Green Button and Fairtrade are among the other standardisation bodies represented at the fair. In addition, a special exhibition entitled “Fashion in the Hood” (Fashion im Kiez) and delivered by the young interest group “Frankfurt Fashion Movement”, helps visitors join the dots in the fashion industry. Among the labels exhibiting at the fair for the first time are Active Wear by Klitmøller Collective from Denmark, Organic Fashion by Bibico from the UK and Italian sneaker brand ACBC.

Exploring the relationship between fashion, dreams and escapism
Curated by Ya'ara Keydar
July 13th, 2021 – December 11th, 2021

The Design Museum Holon unveils its newest and most ambitious fashion exhibition “The Ball” spanning the entire museum. Taking an innovative approach from Design Museum Holon’s previous fashion exhibitions, “The Ball” is a multi-sensory theatrical experience that combines fashion, sound, music, scenery, and lighting to showcase how dresses from the past resonate in today’s eveningwear design. The exhibition offers a dreamy experience full of fantasy, forging connections between the history of balls, Western fashion, and the current creations of Israel’s leading designers.

“The Ball” looks at past and present-day fashion, exploring the complexities woven into the longing for opulence and escapism. Throughout history, while balls were often reserved for the elite, fairytales provided a gateway into a world of imagination, overcoming social divides and barriers. Through a creative dialogue between the fantastic and the real, the exhibition invites visitors to explore the role of fashion and escapism in everyday life.

The exhibition displays approximately 120 ball gowns representing both historical and contemporary designs, which feature luxurious materials alongside surprisingly recognizable ones. In addition to the gowns, the exhibition showcases approximately 50 accessories created especially for the exhibition by Israel’s leading designers, including a display of glass Cinderella slippers printed in 3D, and a collection of hats inspired by desserts.

Participating designers:
Shadi Abed, Chen Adar, Shlomi Anteby, Rivi Avivi, Shahar Avnet, Idit Barak, Victor Vivi Bellaish, Berta, BOOBA MACHO by Karin Vasiluk, Hila Cohen, Luci David, Tatiana Davidov (Studio Tiamanta), Gadi Elimelech, Lia Fattal, Aviram Fima, Aharon Genish, Nimrod Gilo, Lee Grebenau, Brurya, Haritan, Nofar Hatuka, Lihi Hod, Iota Studio, Adi Karni, Ohad Krief, Galia Lahav, Ronen Levin, Rotem Levitan - Retema, Noam Levy, Alon Livne, Shady Francis Majlaton, Chana Marelus, Tal Medina, Moni Mednik, Yaron Minkowsky, Evyatar Myor, Maya Naé, Eliran Nargassi, Nataf Hirshberg and Yanky Golian, Dylan Parienty, Yaniv Persy, Ruth Philosoph, Assaf Reeb, , Katya Romantsov, Eden Saadon, Alon Shabo, Shai Shalom, Orwa Shareef, Sharon Tal, Maskit ,Rotem Shaul, Gal Shenfeld, Nadir Shoshany, Liora Taragan, Ariel Toledano, Michal Yersanesh Mangisto, Maor Zabar, Mira Zwillinger Studio

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