From the Sector

Finishing machinery specialist Monforts has secured a number of major orders from textile manufacturers in Central and South America recently, and was pleased to welcome a high number of visitors from the region to its stand at ITMA 2023 in Milan from June 8-14.

Among new orders are those for three Montex stenters delivered to the AustralTex Group in Argentina and a further Montex range to denim manufacturer CIT in Brazil. Guatemala’s Global Textiles placed an order for its second Montex stenter, while Mexico’s Zentrix ordered its third and Avante, also in Mexico, has opted for its sixth.

Elsewhere, orders have also been placed for the delivery of three new Montex stenters to one of Pakistan’s major corporations, as well as a new Thermex dyeing range to nonwovens manaufacturer Orsa in Italy. Further orders – both for new machines and retrofit modules – are now anticipated following ITMA 2023, which attracted over 111,000 visitors to Milan.

“Visitor footfall at ITMA 2023 was well beyond the company’s expectations, and we were especially pleased at the constant number of visitors from South American companies, as well as from Asia and Europe,” said Monforts Marketing Manager Nicole Croonenbroek. “We were able to provide them with detailed information about our portfolio of machines and technologies digitally and fielded an unprecedented number of serious enquiries, many of which promise to turn into new business.”

Monforts Montex stenters for processes such as drying, stretching, heat-setting and coating, she added, are already the industry standard for the fabric finishing industry, providing a number of advantages in terms of production throughput and especially in energy efficiency and resource savings. Other key technologies in the Monforts portfolio include relaxation dryers, Thermex dyeing ranges and Monfortex compressive shrinking ranges.

Montex®Coat
“We were also very pleased with the interest in the Montex®Coat, the latest addition to our range of technologies, which we displayed in Milan,” Croonenbroek said.

The Montex®Coat can serve a very diverse number of markets and enables full PVC coatings, pigment dyeing or minimal application surface and low penetration treatments, as well as solvent coatings. Knife coating, roller coating or screen printing can also all be accommodated with this system. It provides the ultimate in flexibility and the ability to switch quickly from one fabric run to the next, without compromising on the economical use of energy or raw materials.

Many refinements have been made to the Montex®Coat in the past few years, resulting in higher coating accuracy and the resulting quality of the treated fabrics. A number of advanced new improvements were introduced in Milan, including automatic edge limiters for immediately adapting to new coating widths and a new and simplified hand-held control device. These save considerable time in setting up the machine and ensuring consistent production.

The Montex®Coat unit displayed in Milan was sold to Vietnamese company Thai Tuan during the show.

From circular knitting machines and braiders via upgrades to digital solutions, Mayer & Cie. presented at ITMA 2023 a wide range of solutions that make circular knitting machines and braiding machines even more durable and thereby more valuable, for which the long-established firm received a positive visitor response.

From machinery manufacturer to solution provider
Three circular knitting machines – a Relanit 3.2 HS, an SF4-3.2 III and the OVJA 2.4 EM – and an MR-15/18C/Single Deck braiding machine took up about half the floor space of Mayer & Cie.’s ITMA stand. That reflected the weighting of the trade fair presentation. Along with high-tech circular knitting and braiding products the Mayer & Cie. focus at this year’s ITMA was on solutions that increase the value and durability of its machines. Including the digital platform knitlink, the new Control 5.0 machine control system, the camera-assisted error recognition system knithawk, almost a dozen upgrade kits for existing machines and the new oiler system Senso Blue RS.

Trade fair debut for Mayer & Cie. braiding machine
Mayer & Cie. also exhibited a braiding machine at ITMA for the first time. The company has integrated the braiding division at is Albstadt headquarters since 2019. “Braiding machines are a part of textile machinery,” said Mayer & Cie. Managing Partner Benjamin Maye, “but we nevertheless saw presenting the MR-15/18C/SD braider at ITMA as an experiment – and are satisfied with the result. The machine attracted a great deal of attention and we were able to make interesting contacts.”

A positive conclusion on ITMA 2023
Expectations of this year’s ITMA were moderate, Benjamin Mayer said. “War, high energy prices, inflation and recession are the signs of the times. Not even an ITMA is going to change that.” In addition, there had been serious problems with the issue of visas that had made it impossible for many potential visitors to attend the trade fair.

The Mayer & Cie. management therefore judged its success not by the general demand but by the positive visitor feedback. “For us that was an indicator of our future competitiveness,” said CEO Benjamin Mayer, “and we can definitely be sure of that with our developments.”

With combined regional, global, and industry specific expertise, the Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) will make its debut from 28 February – 1 March 2024. Following the signing of a memorandum of understanding (MOU) in late March, Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the Vietnam Trade Promotion Agency (VIETRADE) announced the new international fair for the entire textile value chain. The three-day platform will be staged at the Saigon Exhibition and Convention Center (SECC), Ho Chi Minh City.

Commenting on the new event, Ms Wendy Wen, Managing Director of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd, said: “With Intertextile Apparel in Shanghai a prime example, our Texpertise Network provides the ideal global framework from which to launch this diverse, comprehensive platform for the integrated textile supply chain. VIATT itself will capture the essence of Texpertise in one platform – a diverse, one-stop sourcing event for buyers across all categories, from garments, fabrics, yarns and fibres, to textile machinery, technical textiles and nonwovens, and everything in between.”

Discussing the event’s potential, Mr Le Hoang Tai, Deputy Director General of the Vietnam Trade Promotion Agency (VIETRADE), said: “Vietnam is one of the world’s leading textile producers and exporters, and going from strength to strength as one of Southeast Asia’s manufacturing hubs. Our establishment has many years of experience organising trade fairs throughout Vietnam, and together with Messe Frankfurt we are excited to help international fairgoers unlock the potential of the country’s fast-growing textile market. In addition, Ho Chi Minh City’s accessibility, and Vietnam’s proximity to other leading textile-producing nations such as Bangladesh, Cambodia, China and India, make it the logical venue to host an event of this nature.”

Many international textile manufacturers have been expanding operations into Vietnam, augmenting an already strong domestic industry. According to the Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (VITAS), the country’s textile and garment industry achieved staggering annual growth of 20 – 26% from 2018 – 2022. Participation in international trade agreements such as the Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP), the Comprehensive and Progressive Agreement for Trans-Pacific Partnership (CPTPP), the EU–Vietnam Free Trade Agreement (EVFTA), and the Indo-Pacific Economic Framework for Prosperity (IPEF)[2], bodes well for future growth.

As one of the world’s biggest importers of textile machinery, and a consistent importer of fabrics, yarns and fibres, garment production is the cornerstone of Vietnam’s industry. The country utilises cotton and functional materials to produce casualwear, childrenswear, swimwear, workwear, and much more, with sportswear an especially fast-growing category, and high-utility garments expected to achieve high exports.

By linking textile players from across Asia, Europe and beyond with this market, VIATT 2024 is willing to play an important part in shaping the future of Vietnam’s industry. Next year’s fair will host an extensive mix of international and domestic exhibitors covering multiple textile sub-sectors, including garments, apparel fabrics and accessories, yarns and fibres, digital printing, home textiles, technical textiles and nonwovens, textile processing, textile machinery, and more.

Exhibitors and buyers can utilise the fair’s global business matchmaking service, where connections are made based on the specific needs of each party. In addition to the fair’s main function as an international trading platform, its fringe programme will facilitate participants’ networking with industry leaders and offer diverse market insights via various seminars, forums, and panel discussions.

The Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the Vietnam Trade Promotion Agency (VIETRADE). Covering the entire textile industry value chain, the inaugural edition will be held from 28 February – 1 March 2024 at the Saigon Exhibition and Convention Center (SECC), Ho Chi Minh City.

In the run-up to ITMA, VDMA is presenting an overview of the textile recycling technologies offered by member companies exhibiting at ITMA. VDMA and its members are committed to a responsible use of all resources used in textile production. VDMA members create the technical prerequisites for the efficient reuse and recycling of textile raw materials.

In the spirit of the circular economy, VDMA companies offer solutions for the entire processing and production chain. The production programme and services include equipment and technologies for recycling textile production waste, textiles, textile auxiliaries or waste heat and for processing recycled materials into textiles.

An overview of the available technologies is provided here: Way2ITMA-Recycling
The short descriptions of the solutions offered by the member companies are structured according to the following headings:

• Recycling of textile production waste and textiles
• Recycling of caustic soda and waste heat
• Processing of recycled materials

At ITMA 2023, XORELLA, a specialist in steam setting and conditioning equipment for yarns and fabrics, will launch XO AUTOMATION for the double door XO SELECT conditioning machine series, and XO SOLID, a new machine series to complement XO SMART, XO TREND and XO SELECT machines.

XO AUTOMATION
The new XO AUTOMATION system consists of roller conveyor systems for loading and unloading two-door XO Select conditioning machines. Additional pallet wrapping machine with a turntable, weighting station, label printer, safety fence and security system can complete the system. The XO Select controller and automation system can handle and store individual customer-specific material and packing programmes.  

XO SELECT and XO AUTOMATION are designed for yarn steaming on multiple pallet dimensions and heights up to 2,650mm. The linear material flow passing conveyor and steaming machine avoids any mix between steamed and un-steamed materials. XO AUTOMATION fills the gap between the XO automated moving platform and the fully automated transport system – from spinning hall to warehouse.

XO SOLID
The new cubical XO SOLID combines a high loading space of 1,800mm x 1,700mm x 4, 000mm (H x W x L) through double row pin trolleys or pallets for easy manual loading of six units on floor level without a pit or platform. XO SOLID is therefore designed for installations on upper floor levels. The new frame design combines all necessary components factory preinstalled on a single frame, for easy ‘plug and play’ installation at the customer site. Additional smaller steamer dimensions for two and four loading units are also at the planning stage.

The new XO SOLID incorporates all the renowned features of XORELLA machines based on the long term experience in high temperature dyeing vessel production of FONG’s, including:

• A Siemens controller with OPC UA interface and XO data tool for batch storage.
• A XO EcoPac waterless claw pump or two-stage water ring vacuum pump.
• A high energy efficient accumulator for steam, electric and combined heating.
• Vessel and piping in world-class stainless steel.
• European key components such as pumps, heating elements, valves and sensors

Established in Switzerland in 1967, XORELLA became known in the global textile industry for its innovative indirect steaming system. Since 2002 the company has been a member of the CHTC Fong’s International Group, and a member of SINOMACH Group (China National Machinery Industry Corporation) since 2019.

The 14th in-store asia will be held in Mumbai from 1 June to 3 June 2023. The trade exhibition for retail resources and investment in store design, VM and in-store marketing gathers decision-makers from more than 7,500 retail companies, consultants, service providers, and manufacturers, bringing together over 100 exhibitors.

Since 2018, in-store asia has been a member of the international trade fair family of EuroShop in Düsseldorf. It assembles all leading retail solutions providers from India and other countries under one roof. Here decision-makers from retail, including branded product producers, retail consultants as well as providers of services and solutions for retail, store designers, architects and VM experts come together.

The 3-day event includes not only the Expo area but also a wide range of side events comprising a Convention with over 30 speakers, the presentation of the coveted VM & RD Retail Design Awards as well as the VM Challenge, a live shop window challenge for top-notch visual merchandisers that is unique for India. Furthermore, the Retail Technology Pavilion will present new tools, for instance for retail management and customer tracking as well as solutions revolving around AI & virtual reality, NFTs, smart checkout all the way down to store management, retail security and payment. Celebrating a premiere here will be the Start-up Hub, which will provide emerging, innovative companies with a stage to present themselves to the industry.

The Indian retail industry has changed drastically; being one of the fastest growing retail markets it has proven a key driver for the Indian economy. The Indian retail sector is forecast to continue posting enormous growth rates due to such factors as growing urbanisation, rising household incomes, better connected rural consumers and rising consumer spending.

• Spunbond, meltblown and composite structures for new market opportunities

RadiciGroup is participating with its Advanced Textile Solutions business area at Index in Geneva from 18 to 21 April 2023. Among the Group’s products showcased are spunbond and meltblown for different application sectors, such as roofing, construction, automotive, HO.RE.CA. and filtration.

“The key message we are bringing to the fair is sustainability,” noted Enrico Buriani, CEO of the Nonwovens division of RadiciGroup Advanced Textile Solutions. “Those who already know us know that, for many years, the Group has been focused on proposing low environmental impact products and processes where sustainability is scientifically measured or certified by independent third parties. Our company is dedicated to nonwovens, which, by the way, are produced using 100% renewable energy. We have expanded our portfolio of innovative solutions for customers interested in realizing projects with sustainability as an essential requirement.”

Respunsible® is a spunbond brand manufactured from recycled polypropylene. A preliminary Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) study was carried out by RadiciGroup to demonstrate the correlation between the reduction in environmental impact and the percentage increase in recycled material. The final results demonstrate that a variable percentage of from 50 to 70% recycled material leads to a reduction in CO2 emissions of from 30 to 40%, compared to a fabric made of 100% virgin material, without comprising high technical performance.

Additionally, since RadiciGroup has achieved ISCC PLUS certification (International Sustainability and Carbon Certification), it can offer bio, biocircular or circular polypropylene spunbond and meltblown nonwovens, in which the sustainable polypropylene is biomass balanced. This certification signifies traceability along the supply chain and verifies that the certified companies meet high environmental and social standards.

“Since 2020, we have had a technologically advanced meltblown production line,” Mr. Buriani concluded. “This allows us to make composite structures, sold under the brand name Radimelt®. Now our goal is to expand our filtration applications, diversifying and developing new business, for instance vacuum cleaner bags or HVAC (heating, ventilation and air conditioning) system filters, where we can meet the high efficiency and mechanical resistance demanded, thanks to our latest generation technology.”

From April 25^th to 27^th, 2023, the Institute of Textile Machinery and High Performance Material Technology (ITM) of TU Dresden will be exhibiting at the pavilion SAXONY! at JEC World 2023.

The ITM will provide a comprehensive overview of its current research in the field of machine and product development along the entire textile process chain.

The upcoming JEC 2023 exhibition will highlight innovative Customised Connective Cores (CCC), which are custom-made core-insert structures additively manufactured using cellular metal and a form-fit integrated insert. These CCCs can be seamless integrated either as patches or as full-surface core material into lightweight panels, offering significantly improved load-bearing behavior (especially 4 times the load-bearing capacity and fail-safe behavior) compared to existing technologies. This breakthrough opens up new possibilities for fastening lightweight panels.

Another highlight at the exhibition is the repair process for fibre-reinforced composites (FRP) developed at the ITM. Instead of mechanically grinding the damaged area, the matrix in the repair area is locally dissolved using a UV-rays-induced depolymerisation process. Damaged fibres can thus be replaced by a customized repair patch. Free yarn ends on the textile repair patches are spliced with the UV-exposed yarn ends in the repair area using an adapted splicing process. In this way, a very clean, simplified and mechanically improved repair area can be achieved compared to the state of the art.

The diverse possibilities offered by the structure and process simulation of textile high-performance materials and textile manufacturing processes will also be presented. By means of multi-scale modelling and simulation, a profound understanding of materials and processes is achieved at the ITM. Finite element models on the micro, meso and macro scale have been developed and validated for this purpose. Examples from current ITM research projects demonstrate the various possibilities and areas of application of modern simulation methods in the field of textile technology.

Moreover, an innovative process for the integral manufacturing of 3D rib-stiffened preforms with complexly arranged stiffeners in 0°, 90° and ± 45° orientation was developed and successfully implemented at the ITM. Due to the process-integrated structure fixation and the continuous fibre reinforcement between shell and rib structure, the 3D preforms are perfectly suited for the production of highly load-bearing FRP components with increased bending stiffness, which will be exhibited at JEC. Hence, the lightweight construction potential of high-performance fibres can be fully exploited.

A successfully established development are partially flowable 2D textile reinforcement fabrics that are continuously manufactured in one single process step. For this purpose, the entire process chain was developed at the ITM, which allows a cost-effective and high-volume production of load-bearing thermoplastic 3D FRP components with continuous fibre reinforcement between shell and stiffeners.

At JEC 2023, the ITM will also present a partially embedded textile latice girder as reinforcement for carbon concrete applications, which was produced by means of an innovative textile manufacturing process based on the multiaxial warp knitting technology. Through the development of a customized warp insertion, manipulation and take-off system as well as appropriate shaping methods, it is now possible to produce tailored textile semi-finished products, e.g. for use in wall and ceiling panels. These textile latice girders represent a resource-saving alternative to conventional steel girders due to the reduced among of concrete required and the additional cavity for media and cable guidance.

The integration of textile actuators and sensors in FRP provides structures with additional functionalities. The research and application of such interactive FRP with different matrix materials (e.g. with thermoset, elastomer or concrete matrix systems) for structural health monitoring or adaptive systems is one of the key research areas of the ITM.

Moreover, the development and implementation of innovative yarn constructions based on recycled high-performance fibres (e.g. rCF, rGF, rAR) for sustainable FRPs is successfully promoted at ITM. By use of a special carding machine, recycled fibres are opened up, separated and joined to form a wide, uniform ribbon. Subsequently, innovative hybrid yarn constructions made of evenly mixed recycled high-performance and thermoplastic fibres with variable fibre volume fractions can be manufactured by means of various spinning technologies. Selected yarn constructions and components will be showcased at JEC.

From March 15-16, 2023, the spring edition of PERFORMANCE DAYS kicked off on the fairgrounds of Messe München. With around 2,685 visitors, the event organizers were particularly pleased with numbers up on the previous winter fair. High attendances were also evident at the Expert Talks on both days, which provided information on the latest color and fabric trends, news on developments in sustainability and new technologies from fiber manufacturers. The focal points of the show were marked by the PERFORMANCE FORUM, which showcased the fabric highlights for the spring/summer 2025 season as well as the two PERFORMANCE AWARD and ECO PERFORMANCE AWARD winners.

After the kick-off event in Munich in March, the industry now looks forward to the follow-up fairs in Portland from April 4-5, 2023 and in Shanghai, April 10-11, 2023.

New concept starting October 2023: Premiere for highlighted focus on footwear
As part of the upcoming PERFORMANCE DAYS, which will once again take place at the Messe München exhibition center on October 4-5, 2023, the event organizers will no longer focus explicitly on sustainable functional textiles and accessories, but will also focus on the footwear market.

To support the integration of the footwear market into the trade fair events in Munich, Portland, New York and Shanghai, the organizers have brought on board two industry specialists, Nina Conrad and Rucky Zambrano.

Nina Conrad has been active as a sustainability consultant in the textile and leather industry for many years, specializing in traceable and local supply chains. Her core business is the production of leather and leather goods derived from animals raised on certified organic farms. She is also a founding partner of the Sustainable Leather Foundation and co-founder of the Fibershed subsiduary DACH.

Rucky Zambrano is a industrial designer and expert. When he got to know Vibram in 1992, he shifted his career to footwear for reasons of passion. For 13 years now, Zambrana and Vibram have been a driving force in the footwear market and made the leap from performance to fashion, as witnessed with the Merrell Chameleon, the Prada Luna Rossa boat shoe sole or the latest Vibram FiveFingers models. He is currently responsible for footwear for the Finnish children’s outdoor brand Reima.

CHIC - China International Fashion Fair starts the new year with a new date and fresh ideas. The unrestricted entry to China is possible again and CHIC March will be postponed by three weeks to facilitate visa applications.

From March 28 to 30, 2023 around 1,600 exhibitors will meet on 117,200 sqm at CHIC at the National Exhibition & Convention Center (NECC) in Shanghai.

In 5 halls the fair presents itself in clearly structured segments with the big players and young, up-and-coming designers as well as exciting niche brands in the areas of womenswear, menswear, kidswear, denim, shoes, bags and accessories, young fashion, sportswear, designer brands and overseas brands.

Around 120,000 trade visitors are expected at the upcoming CHIC, serving all major distribution channels in China such as large shopping malls and department stores, agents, distributors, buyers from multi-brand and concept stores, live stream providers, etc. The CHIC organizers invest in intensive visitor marketing measures. CHIC Matching, the successful networking system of CHIC, brings exhibitors and visitors together efficiently and individually. New contacts can be made and cooperation opportunities explored. Comprehensive marketing activities via all relevant channels such as the CHIC WeChat Public Account (> 200,000 subscriptions), the CNGA WeChat mini program (> 100,000 subscriptions) and TikTok ensure visibility.

New: CHIC Showroom, the innovative young showroom concept in Beijing, which is to be expanded and will enable international brands to enter the Chinese market in the medium term.