From the Sector

Refashion, a textile industry’s eco-organisation, has renewed its authority approval until 2028. 6 years during which it will continue to transform the industry in keeping with the objectives set by the French Ministry of Ecological Transition and the French Ministry of the Economy, including the objective to collect 60% of CHF (clothing, household linen and footwear textiles) placed on the market by 2028. This new period is reflected in an ambitious road map and significantly increased investment. Nearly 1.2 billion euros, financed by the marketers, will be spent on transforming the industry during this new period of authority approval.

Determined to achieve the objectives set out in the ambitious specifications set down by the Secretary of State at the Ministry of Ecological Transition, Berangère Couillard, Refashion has worked on a road map with all of its stakeholders involved in the transformation that is underway. Maud Hardy, nominated as the eco-organisation’s CEO in January 2022, started a collaborative working method that will continue throughout this new period to support areas that are key in this transformation. In the next few months, projects will begin and will visibly highlight the progress made in the three phases of a product’s life cycle: production consumption, regeneration.

Production

• Recognising eco-design initiatives through the eco-modulation of the fees paid by marketers (durability, environmental information labelling, integration of recycled materials). For marketers, these initiatives should represent the scheme’s cornerstone. The aim is to involve all stakeholders in reducing the environmental impact of products.

Consumption

• As from 2023, Refashion will spend 5 million euros minimum per year in awareness-raising activities and on information to the general public by supporting an array of local authority initiatives.
• The launch of a repair fund in 2023, in particular to prolong the usage of textiles and footwear products. More than 150 million euros will be invested between 2023 and 2028 to change the habits of the French population to increase repairs by 35% (guideline target by the ADEME 2019).

Regeneration

• Accelerating clothing, household linen and footwear collection, in particular thanks to an operational mix in the sector. Funding traditional sorting operators will remain central, but Refashion will also develop an additional operational system in order to achieve the collection target of 60% of products placed onto the market (versus 34% in 2021).
• 5% of fees paid to Refashion will go towards the redeployment/reuse funds to provide support for reuse within the remit of stakeholders in the Social and Solidarity Economy. In addition to this funding, additional funding arrangements open to all stakeholders will be established. The total budget throughout the authority approval period represents 135 million euros.
• 5% of fees, i.e., 58 million euros in 6 years, will be spent on R&D to help achieve these milestones in order to industrialise the recycling of used CHF: recyclability that is considered during the design stage; automated sorting and recycling.

The Aachen-based start-up SA-Dynamics is developing sustainable, bio-based and biodegradable insulation materials made from aerogel fibres, thereby setting new standards in resource-saving construction. Dr Sascha Schriever (Institut für Textiltechnik ITA), Maximilian Mohr (ITA), Dr Jens Hofer (ITA Postdoc) and Dr Christian Schwotzer (Department for Industrial Furnaces and Heat Engineering IOB), who trained at RWTH Aachen University, were awarded first place in the KUER.NRW Business Plan Competition 2023 and prize money of €6,000.

SA-Dynamics relies on the impressive properties of aerogel fibres: they have excellent insulating properties, are lightweight, durable, robust, versatile and can be processed very well on conventional textile machines thanks to their flexibility. This makes them comparable to polystyrene, but still sustainable, as SA Dynamics uses bio-based and biodegradable raw materials.

"We can revolutionise the construction world with bio-based aerogel fibres," explains ITA founder Dr Sascha Schriever proudly. "If all insulation materials in construction are converted to bio-based aerogel fibres, all builders can realise their dream of a sustainable house."

SA Dynamics has come a good deal closer to its founding goal by winning the KUER.NRW 2023 business plan competition. The spin-off from Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) and Department for Industrial Furnaces and Heat Engineering (IOB) at RWTH Aachen University is scheduled for spring 2025.

The Fashion for Good museum in Amsterdam marks its 6 year journey with a special fashion exhibition focused on circularity, called What Goes Around Comes Around. Honing in on how circularity plays out in different circles of influence, the exhibition showcases inspirational displays that make tangible what a circular fashion industry will look like.

What Goes Around Comes Around pays homage to the extraordinary work of pioneering artists, innovators and designers working to shift the fashion industry with new solutions. The exhibition opens January 27, 2024 and will be open to the public for 5 months. It is the grand finale, as the Museum is closing its doors. As such it will be the Museum’s final call to collective action, which the fashion industry still so highly needs.

“We are highlighting three areas in What Goes Around Comes Around", explains curator Sophie Jager-van Duren at the Fashion for Good Museum. “First: new work by local artists Atelier Reservé and The Patchwork Family, design collectives working towards circularity, demonstrating what is happening right now. We are also showing looks from established designers BOTTER, Ronald van der Kemp and Marga Weimans, Yuima Nakazato and Nicole McLaughlin. Second, the community, with an installation for visitors to participate in, planting the seed that we need each other to change the fashion system. Lastly, the industry - honing in on examples of innovations and technologies. We invited designers to create new work with circular materials including Living Ink, MIRUM, Altmat and Biophilica.”

Today’s fashion industry is caught in a vicious cycle of ‘take-make-waste’ and this system has a growing negative impact on people and the planet. For instance, in Europe, the average consumer is responsible for 15 kilos of textile waste per year and these numbers are increasing. To address this, we need action from individuals, the industry and society alike to go from a linear take-make-waste model into one that is circular by design.

The Fashion for Good Museum is inviting anybody to come visit its final exhibition and learn from concrete examples, to understand the current state of the fashion industry, gain the tools for taking individual or collective action and be inspired by circular fashion available today.

Designing for circularity means designing without creating waste or pollution, as all materials are continually reused instead of discarded. A circular system is restorative and regenerative and reduces pressure on natural resources. The ultimate goal of the exhibition is to put circularity into practice, help people envision a circular economy based on community practices and empower visitors to take collective action, starting in the museum but extending to their homes and daily lives.

Through the exhibition and its public programme, which consists of interactive workshops and educational events, the museum functions as a community space where visitors are invited to learn, gain new perspectives and are exposed to inspiring examples, building the skills and knowledge to create positive change. The upcoming few months there are multiple events, educational toolkits and other opportunities to join us, all open for the public, keep an eye out on our website and social media channels for the latest updates.

The exhibition is open for the public from Saturday 27th of January until June 5th 2024, marking World Environment Day on June 5th as the final closing day of the museum.

Archroma is showcasing its planet conscious innovations and solution systems at this year’s Colombiatex de Las Américas, being held from January 23 to 25, 2024.

Archroma is using its attendance at Colombiatex 2024 to introduce a new concept that promises to help the region’s brands and mills optimize their productivity, add value to their products and create a positive impact on the environment: Super Systems+.

The Super Systems+ solutions offer great performance, including end-product durability, while meeting sustainability targets with cleaner chemistries that comply with current and anticipated industry regulations or deliver resource savings, or both. Solutions are currently available for popular end-use segments, from denim to cotton and poly-cotton knits.

For black denim with a cleaner environmental footprint, brands and mills can choose DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK to create unique shade and wash-down effects with an overall impact reduction of 57% compared to standard Sulfur Black 1 liquid.* For authentic blue denim, Archroma’s aniline-free** pre-reduced DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 LIQ produces coveted indigo colors with the same performance and efficiency as conventional indigo dye, but in a more planet-friendly way.

To embrace circularity and create natural shades on cellulosic-based fibers including cotton, kapok, linen and viscose, brand owners can now turn to Archroma’s patented EarthColors® technology. It makes high-performance biosynthetic dyes from non-edible natural waste, such as almond shells, bitter orange residues and cotton production byproducts, helping conserve natural resources. For next-generation processing of polyester and its blends, Archroma’s ERIOPON® E3-SAVE all-in-one auxiliary combines pre-scouring, dyeing and reduction clearing in a single bath to achieve substantial savings of water, energy and time.

For weather protection and stain resistance that is both economically and environmentally sustainable, Archroma Super Systems+ draw on an extensive portfolio of fluorine-free durable water repellents.

* Ecotarrae lifecycle analysis
** Below limits of detection according to industry standard test methods

The report details sustainability efforts at its Boennigheim headquarters and targets for 2024. Hohenstein has replaced previous environmental guidelines with strategic development in accordance with Environmental, Social and Corporate Governance (ESG) and adopted a sustainability roadmap for the future.

Hohenstein has been implementing environmental and social measures for decades. As the first neutral assessment of these measures in 2019, Hohenstein participated in the ECOfit programme in Baden-Württemberg, Germany. A regular external assessment is to be introduced in 2024.

• Environmental: Overall, energy consumption was actively reduced, and renewable energy use promoted. Hohenstein also collected rail and air travel data to be used in CO2 accounting in 2024.
• Social: Hohenstein actively involved its employees in sustainability activities based on a survey and internal education. In future, Hohenstein will improve the ratio of female managers and implement a training campaign on the company values for employees.
• Governance: Hohenstein management has prioritized good communication through regular colloquia for employees and access to human resources consultation. They intend to intensify the dialogue with employees through further events.

adidas unveils its SS24 Melbourne collection to mark the start of the 2024 Grand Slam season. AIRCHILL technology – a first for adidas in tennis – works in tandem with HEAT.RDY material technology to support players performing in the heat of the moment.

AIRCHILL material technology supports cooling through thermally zoned, raised pattern motifs and mesh layers. The lightness of AIRCHILL helps skin breathe – deliberately placed in high sweat and evaporation zones – under the armpits, chest and back. The raised patterns and open mesh fabrics are designed to optimize airflow during high-intensity workouts and matches.

The 26-piece range for men and women also boasts a tranquil color palette and pattern scheme, specially crafted to help evoke a sense of calm. The spectrum of greens – including the key colorway ‘Green Spark’, inspired by the natural phenomena of bioluminescence – were carefully chosen for their soft, glowing shades, meanwhile prints adorning the fabric emulate recurring fractal shapes in nature.

The apparel collection is made from 100% recycled materials and comes in sizes XS-2XL for men and 2XS-2XL for women.

The collection will be worn by athletes including Caroline Wozniacki, Elina Svitolina, Xinyu Wang, Dana Mathewson, Jessica Pegula, Karolína Muchová, Maria Sakkari, Stefanos Tsitsipas, Felix Auger Aliassime, Jason Wu and Martin de la Puente.

• Dibella increases the use of Cotton made in Africa cotton according to the mass balance system from 300,000kg in 2023 to 750,000kg in 2024.

With Cotton made in Africa (CmiA), Dibella is making its business model even more sustainable. This enables the company to minimise its environmental impact and support the people in the growing regions. Dibella relies on the CmiA mass balance system in the chain to achieve its corporate goal of "increasing the use of sustainable fibres".

Cotton made in Africa initiative is an internationally recognised standard for sustainable cotton grown by African smallholder farmers. With up to 13% less greenhouse gas emissions, CmiA-verified cotton has a significantly lower impact on the environment than the global average and also supports village communities in Africa beyond sustainable cotton cultivation. CmiA supports smallholder farmers in sub-Saharan Africa in the sustainable cultivation of genetically unmodified cotton and is committed to improving working conditions in ginning factories. Through a licence fee, which is paid by customers like Dibella, the farmers receive training and access to operating resources in order to reduce the use of pesticides and increase the quality of their cotton and yields from their fields at the same time.

Cotton made in Africa takes a pragmatic approach to the processing of its cotton with two different models in order to best meet the demands for transparency and feasibility in the chain: The Hard Identity Preserved System and the Mass Balance System; Dibella has opted for the latter. While CmiA-verified cotton is always traded separately from other cotton right up to the spinning mill and can therefore be traced seamlessly from the growing region to the ginning plant to the spinning mill, the mass balance system allows CmiA cotton to be mixed with cotton of other origins at the spinning mill level as long as a balance between cotton purchases and CmiA-labelled yarns is ensured. This principle ensures the purchase of sustainably grown fibres and helps Dibella to bring a larger quantity of sustainable cotton into its textile cycle, which ultimately benefits smallholder farmers.

A collaboration between Deakin University researchers and Australia’s largest commercial linen supplier Simba Global is tackling a critical global issue, the spread of harmful microplastics through our laundry.

Clothing and textiles are estimated to generate up to 35 per cent of the microplastics found in the world’s oceans, making them one of the biggest contributors. But there is still a lot to be learnt about the characteristics of these microplastics and exactly how and why they are generated.

Researchers at the ARC Research Hub for Future Fibres in Deakin’s Institute for Frontier Materials (IFM) have teamed up with Simba Global, a global textile manufacturing and supply company, to better understand the extent and type of microplastics shed when their products are laundered. Simba Global wants to lead the charge to reduce the environmental impact of textiles.

Lead scientist IFM Associate Professor Maryam Naebe said working with an industry partner on the scale of Simba Global meant the research could have a huge real-world impact.

Simba Global is the major linen supplier to Australia’s hospitals, hotels and mining camps, resulting in 950,000 tonnes of textile products – including bedsheets, bath towels, scrubs and much more – going through the commercial laundering process each year. It also supplies international markets in New Zealand, Singapore and the US.

“As part of our research, we will investigate potential solutions including the pre-treatment of textiles to reduce the shedding of microplastics, or even increasing the size of the plastics that break down so they can be better captured and removed by filtration during the laundering process,” Associate Professor Naebe said.

“Microplastics are now ubiquitous in the environment, they’re in the air we breathe, the food we eat and the earth we walk on. The magnitude of the problem is bigger than previously thought.

“Of serious concern is the mounting evidence that microplastics are having a negative impact on human and animal health. There are not just physical, but chemical and biological impacts.”

Associate Professor Naebe’s team have taken the first steps in the project, analysing wastewater samples from commercial laundries with high-powered electron microscopes in their Geelong laboratory, part of the largest fibres and textiles research facility in Australia.

The team recently presented a new scientific paper at the Association of Universities for Textiles (AUTEX) Conference 2023, which started the important process of formally categorising these types of microplastics, as well as developing standard terminology and testing methods.

“Because our understanding of microplastics is still in its infancy, we needed to start right at the beginning,” Associate Professor Naebe said.

“We need to have a standard definition of what is a microplastic. Up to this point that has been lacking, which makes it difficult to compare and incorporate other studies in this area.

“We are now developing a systematic method for sampling and identifying microplastics in laundry wastewater. It has been tricky to measure the different sizes, but this is important information to have. For example, there are studies that suggest some sizes of microplastics are causing more issues in certain animals.

“The next step will be establishing an essential method to prevent the release of microplastics from textile laundering. This may involve a coating on the surface of the textile or better ways to collect the waste during the washing process.”

Simba Global Executive Chair Hiten Somaia said the company had a strong focus on sustainability, driven by the business’ purpose statement.

“We are proud to partner with Deakin University in what is the first significant research into textile microplastic pollution in Australia. What we are most excited about is sharing the results of this research with all other textile markets in Australia – including clothing – and putting an end to microplastic pollution from textiles.”

SGL Carbon relies on climate-friendly manufacturing processes in the production of its own carbon fibers. By using renewable energy, the carbon footprint of SGL fiber can be reduced by up to 50% compared to a conventional fiber.  

SGL carbon fiber is produced at the Lavradio (Portugal) and Moses Lake (USA) sites. When the Moses Lake site was selected in the 1990s, the use of hydropower as an energy source played a particularly decisive role. As a result, around 75,000 tonnes of CO₂ can be saved in Moses Lake by purchasing electricity from hydropower plants compared to a fossil fuel-based electricity mix.

As part of the consistent implementation of its climate strategy, SGL Carbon will be using a CO₂-neutral biomass system to generate energy from the beginning of 2024, which will make the production system, which was previously based on natural gas, more flexible and climate-friendly. At full capacity, the biomass system in Lavradio can save more than 90,000 tons of CO₂.

The raw material used is wood pellets, which are sourced from a radius of 250 kilometres via short transport routes.

The climate-friendly energy supply at the site in Moses Lake (USA) combined with the new biomass plant in Lavradio (Portugal) lead to a reduction in CO₂ emissions of up to 50% in the production of SGL's own carbon fibers compared to conventional fibers. With the investment in the biomass system, SGL Carbon is pursuing its climate strategy. The target is to save 50% CO₂ emissions by the end of 2025 compared to the base year 2019 and to be climate-neutral by the end of 2038. In the period 2019 to 2022, SGL Carbon has reduced its CO₂ emissions by 17%.

The kick-off meeting for the "Trends and Design Factors for Hydrogen Pressure Vessels" project, recently held at AZL Aachen GmbH, was a successful event, bringing together more than 37 experts in the field of composite technologies. This event laid a solid foundation for the Joint Partner Project, which currently comprises a consortium of 20 renowned companies from across the composite pressure vessel value chain: Ascend Performance Materials, C evotec GmbH, Chongqing Polycomp International Corp. (CPIC), Conbility GmbH, Elkamet Kunststofftechnik GmbH, F.A. Kümpers GmbH & Co. KG, f loteks plastik sanayi ticaret a.s., Formosa Plastics Corporation, Heraeus Noblelight GmbH, Huntsman Advanced Materials, Kaneka Belgium NV, Laserline GmbH, Mitsui Chemicals Europe GmbH, Plastik Omnium, Rassini Europe GmbH, Robert Bosch GmbH, Swancor Holding Co. Ltd. Ltd., TECNALIA, Toyota Motor Europe NV/SA, Tünkers do Brasil Ltda.

The project follows AZL´s well proven approach of a Joint Partner Project, aiming to provide technology and market insights as well as benchmarking of different material and production setups in combination with connecting experts along the value chain.

The kick-off meeting not only served as a platform to foster new contacts and get informed about the expertise and interests of the consortium members in the field of hydrogen pressure vessels, but also laid the groundwork for steering the focus of the upc oming project's ambitious phases. As a basis for the interactive discussion session, AZL outlined the background, motivation and detailed work plan. The central issues of the dialogue were the primary objectives, the most pressing challenges, the contribut ion to competitiveness, and
the priorities that would best meet the expectations of the project partners.

Discussions covered regulatory issues, the evolving value chain and the supply and properties of key materials such as carbon and glass fibres and resins. The consortium defined investigations into different manufacturing technologies, assessing their matu rity and potential benefits. Design layouts, including liners, boss designs and winding patterns, were thoroughly considered, taking into account their implications for mobile and stationary storage. The group is also interested in cost effective testing m ethods and certification processes, as well as the prospects for recycling into continuous fibres and the use of sustainable materials. Insight was requested into future demand for hydrogen tanks, OEM needs and strategies, and technological developments to produce more economical tanks.

The meeting highlighted the importance of CAE designs for fibre patterns, software suitability and the application dependent use of thermoset and thermoplastic designs.

The first report meeting will also set the stage of the next project phase, which will be the creation of reference designs by AZL's engineering team. These designs will cover a range of pressure vessel configurations using a variety of materials and production concepts. The aim is to develop models that not only re flect current technological capabilities, but also provide deep insight into the cost analysis of different production technologies, their CO₂ footprint, recycling aspects and scalability.

AZL's project remains open to additional participants. Companies interested in joining this initiative are invited to contact Philipp Fröhlig.