From the Sector

• Organic Waste Systems and TÜV confirm fiber biodegradability also in fresh water
• All white LENZING™ Viscose, Modal and Lyocell fibers are now certified for all environments
• Global legislators aim at limiting plastic waste persisting in the environment for centuries
• EU Single-Use Plastics Directive partly regulates usage of plastic products
• Biodegradable materials such as wood-based fibers are the best alternative to single-use plastics

The Lenzing Group received confirmation of the full biodegradability of its fibers in fresh water by the independent research laboratory Organic Waste Systems (OWS). The new and existing international certifications conducted by OWS and issued by TÜV Austria verify that LENZING™ Viscose fibers, LENZING™ Modal fibers and LENZING™ Lyocell fibers are biodegradable in all natural and industrial environments: in the soil, compost as well as in fresh and in marine water.

The biodegradability of cellulosic products and the synthetic fiber polyester was tested in fresh water at OWS according to valid international standards, e.g. ISO 14851. At the end of the trial period, LENZING™ wood-based cellulosic fibers, cotton and paper pulp were shown to be fully biodegradable in fresh water in contrast to synthetic polyester fibers. The fact that synthetic materials are not biodegradable leads to major problems in wastewater treatment plants and potentially marine litter. In turn, this not only harms fish and birds living in and close to the oceans but also all marine organisms and us humans.

“The Lenzing Group operates a truly circular business model based on the renewable raw material wood to produce biodegradable fibers returning to nature after use. This complete cycle comprises the starting point of the core value of sustainability embedded in our company strategy sCore TEN and is the ‘raison d’etre’ of our company”, says Stefan Doboczky, Chief Executive Officer of the Lenzing Group. “In living up to this positioning, we not only enhance the business of our suppliers, customers and partners along the value chain but also improve the state of the entire textile and nonwovens industries.”

Both the textile and nonwovens industries face huge challenges with respect to littering. If current trends continue, the oceans could contain more plastic than fish by 2050. Therefore, legislative bodies worldwide can no longer ignore the issue and have moved towards plastics legislation aimed at limiting the vast amount of waste. In response, European lawmakers issued the Single-Use Plastics Directive currently being transposed into national legislation in the EU member states.

Conventional wet wipes and hygiene products mostly contain plastic and were thus identified as one of the product categories to be singled out. Less polluting alternatives are generally encouraged by NGOs and legislators, e.g. products made of biodegradable wood-based cellulosic fibers. Plastic waste including microplastic can persist in the environment for centuries. In contrast, biodegradable materials are the best alternative to single-use plastics because they fully convert back to nature by definition and thus do not require recycling.

• For Soft Vibrant And Durable Pigment Prints

Reinach, Switzerland - Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, has recently launched at the ITMA exhibition its new Helizarin® LTC New liq, a formaldehyde-free* low temperature curing binder for pigment printing on all kinds of fibers.

Prints are increasingly popular in apparel and interior textiles, as they allow us to express ourselves through vibrant colors and patterns. Consumers are especially drawn to the soft touch of an elegantly printed fabric.

Creating soft and vibrant prints can however be challenging for textile manufacturers: Pigment printing is usually applied to the fabric with a binder that often contains formaldehyde, needs a high temperature for curing, and can make the fabric harsh to the touch.

That is why Archroma developed its new Helizarin® LTC New to allow textile manufacturers to address these challenges.

The innovation was developed in compliance with “The Archroma Way: safe, efficient, enhanced, it’s our nature”. The approach finds its origin in Archroma’s deep belief that it is possible to make the textile industry sustainable, economically and ecologically.

Helizarin® LTC New is a binder designed for low temperature curing or no curing. This allows to reduce the fixation temperature and time compared to conventional pigment printing processes. In addition, manufacturers will not experience the change of shades that sometimes occur with high temperature processes.

When using Helizarin® LTC New, textile manufacturers can therefore improve the productivity of their printing process and reduce their energy consumption.

Helizarin® LTC New is also a welcome solution for textile manufacturers who do not have curing equipment, since it offers similar to better fastness than commodity binders that have been treated through a full process, and excellent fastness on synthetic fibers such as polyester and polyamide.

When it comes to the final result on the fabric, Helizarin® LTC New allows the creation of soft and durable prints for premium quality articles.

The new product will be the core of Archroma's Cool Print, a complete formaldehyde-free* system that keeps printed textiles soft and durable, and the planet cooler.

The system, which combines Helizarin® LTC New with Luprintol® softening and fixing auxiliaries and Printofix® pigment preparations, allows manufacturers to realize potential savings of up to 30% in processing time, 45% in energy consumption and 44% CO2 emissions – compared to benchmark pigment printing.

Helizarin® LTC New, as well as the Cool Print system, is formaldehyde free* and registered under REACH. It can be used in line with the ZDHC & bluesign® requirements, is compliant with the Oeko-Tex Std 100 Class 1 standard for baby wear, and with the MRSL of the most major brands.

“Helizarin® LTC New was developed by Archroma’s R&D team together with experts at our Global Competence Center for Printing, based in Barcelona, Spain”, says Joaquin Femat, Head of Business Development for Printing, Brand & Performance Textile Specialties, at Archroma. “As The Archroma Way is based on Safe, Efficient and Enhanced as its three pillars, we designed an innovation that offers our customers a balanced combination of resource optimization, safe handling, and controlled effluent. Because it’s our nature!”
 

With Alpha-Liner, Autoneum launches its first-ever textile wheelhouse outer liner that not only reduces tire noise substantially, but also convinces with low weight. This newest lightweight component ensures a quiet driving experience and also helps vehicle manufacturers meet current and future noise and emission limits. Alpha-Liner premieres at the “Automotive Acoustics Conference” which takes place in Zurich,
Switzerland, on July 9 and 10.

Alpha-Liner is the latest innovation from Autoneum – a multifunctional wheelhouse outer liner that reduces tire noise with high efficiency and thus makes the vehicle quieter and lighter. Alpha-Liner is based on Autoneum’s newly developed technology, with which noise absorption can be adapted to the specific requirements of the vehicle model for the first time. To achieve this effect, a thin coated surface is applied on the tire side. The porosity of the coating can then be controlled according to the necessary absorption properties, the bottom part of the wheelhouse outer liner requires stronger noise treatment, which maximizes acoustic absorption.

• Contracts signed for seven projects
• Contract comprises delivery of compact- and ring-spinning systems
• Total amounts to roughly CHF 180 million
• Order intakes are anticipated to be realized in 2019; sales posted in the 2020/2021 financial years

Rieter Group has signed contracts with the Cotton & Textile Industries Holding Company, Cairo (Egypt), at the ITMA 2019. These seven projects entail a total of 180 million Swiss francs. The contract comprises delivery of compact- and ring-spinning systems over the next two years. This order is part of a comprehensive modernization program of the Egyptian textile industry. The order intakes are anticipated to be realized in 2019 with sales posted in the 2020/2021 financial years.

The contracts were signed at the ITMA in Barcelona, Spain, by Dr. Ahmed Moustafa Mohamed, Chairman Cotton & Textile Industries Holding Company, and Dr. Norbert Klapper, CEO Rieter.

Dr. Klapper was very pleased at the formal signing of contracts: “We would like to thank our Egyptian business partners for the confidence they are placing in Rieter by awarding us this contract. Rieter has been the partner of choice of the Egyptian spinning industry for decades. We are delighted to be given the opportunity of making such an important contribution to the modernization of the Egyptian textile industry.”

Der German Innovation Award 2019 geht an den neuen Cabrioverdeckstoff mobiltex 388. Der Award ehrt branchenübergreifend Produkte und Lösungen, die sich vor allem durch Nutzerzentrierung und einen Mehrwert von bisherigen Lösungen unterscheiden.

Das Produkt der Marke mobiltex – Spezialist für die textile Ausstattung in den Bereichen Automobil, Nutzfahrzeuge, Eisenbahn, Luftfahrt, Industrie und Verkehr – ist in dieser Form auf dem Markt einzigartig und wurde in der Kategorie „Excellence in Business to Business – Materials & Surfaces" als „Winner“ ausgezeichnet. Besonderheiten sind ein extrem hohes Rückstellvermögen, die dauerhaft hohe Passgenauigkeit, weniger „White Marks“ und die Möglichkeit zur Individualisierung.

Der Cabrioverdeckstoff zeichnet sich durch besondere ästhetische und technische Eigenschaften aus, vor allem durch signifikant weniger „White Marks“, Knickfalten, Krähenfüße, Fadenverschiebungen und Einfallstellen als vergleichbare Stoffe auf dem Markt. „Zudem sitzt mobiltex 388 auch bei häufiger Benutzung des Cabrioverdecks passgenau auf der Unterkonstruktion. Dafür sorgt ein extrem gutes Rückstellvermögen“, sagt Torsten Weißhaar, Sales Manager Automotive bei mobiltex.

Entwickelt und produziert wird der Stoff am Standort Emsdetten in Nordrhein-Westfalen. Hier können auch kleinere Mengen für Sondereditionen oder individuelle Ausführungen hergestellt werden. Das schafft Designvielfalt.

„Für die Automobilindustrie ergeben sich durch unsere Neuentwicklung auch wirtschaftliche Chancen“, so Weißhaar. Maßnahmen wie Faltenwerfer oder Pads werden überflüssig, und die Prozesszeiten reduzieren sich. Außerdem lassen sich Losgrößen und Vorlauf optimieren. Weiteres Einsparpotenzial ergibt sich durch die Breitenoptimierung. Darüber hinaus leistet der Hersteller seinen Beitrag zur Nachhaltigkeit u. a. dadurch, dass der Stoff recyclingfähig ist.

wear2wear is an innovative industrial partnership dedicated to high-quality and sustainable clothing. Five expert partners in Europe have come together to cover the entire recycling loop. On cutting-edge production systems, textile fibres from used clothing will be turned into functional fabrics. Schoeller Textil AG is supplying a wholistic textile portfolio for the workwear area. At Schoeller Textil, the recyclable, functional fabrics from the wear2wear concept belong to the Inspire fabric group. These are high-quality protective workwear fabrics made of 100 percent polyester, which offer the greatest clothing comfort and often feel just like cotton. They are also compliant with the stringent requirements of the bluesign® system.

The sustainable wear2wear concept is synonymous with high-quality, responsible clothing. In European operations, textile fibres from used garments are used to produce new functional fabrics. Depending upon the area of intended use, they also meet strict waterproofing, breathability, protection and comfort requirements. To ensure that the raw material cycle comes full circle, these textiles can be recycled again when they reach the end of their service life. As a result, there is no waste, and they go on to produce new garments. As the wear-2-wear partner companies guarantee that – from the quality of the raw materials to the guaranteed recycling end process – these are 100 percent recyclable, functional fabrics made of recycled textile fibres. Water- and dirt-repelling technologies based on renewable raw materials, along with the most advanced membrane technology, will ensure that the textiles are manufactured and impregnated entirely without the use of PFC in the future too.

Five partner companies  
The five European partner companies in the wear2wear cooperation cover the entire recycling loop. Heinrich Glaeser Nachfolger GmbH is a German fibre and yarn producer and the “recycler” in the loop. Märkischen Faser GmbH (D) is the “upcycler” and fibre manufacturer. Carl Weiske GmbH & Co. KG (D) develops the polymers, fibres, yarns, chemical additives and textile systems, and TWD Fibres GmbH (D), a fully-integrated filament yarn producer, covers the entire range of polyester and polyamide 6.6 continuous filament yarns. Schoeller Textil AG, the innovative Swiss company, is responsible for textile production and manufactures sustainable high-tech fabrics with maximum clothing comfort. The matching climate-neutral and similarly 100 percent recyclable PTFE and PFC-free membrane, as well as recycled outer materials and linings, are supplied by Sympatex Technologies (D), the ecological alternative among the textile function specialists. DutchSpirit is a Dutch company which has been dedicated to environment-friendly clothing since 2010. Its mission is to significantly increase the awareness for sustainable clothing and offer recyclable clothing in the workwear segment. DutchSpirit is the initiator for the development of the Inspire products from Schoeller Textil and provided the inspiration for the wear2wear concept. Further garment-making partners who now also belong to the cooperative group include: Anchor Workwear BV (NL), Hüsler Berufskleider AG (CH), Groenendijk Bedrijfskleding BV (NL), Bedrijfskledingdiscounter BV (NL) and Rifka'S (NL).

• Clean Technology. Smart Factory.

Remscheid – Oerlikon invites all visitors to this year's ITMA in Barcelona on a journey into the future of manmade fiber production. From 20 to 26 June 2019, the world market leader will show all its guests its vision of a sustainable and automated manmade fiber production in a virtual 4D showroom at its 1,000 m² stand in Hall 7, A101: "Clean Technology. Smart Factory." is the motto of the future. And this is only a stone's throw away from reality at the stand. Because today Oerlikon is presenting four world premieres for efficient machine and plant concepts in a new, innovative industrial design. Together with numerous other innovations, all this forms the new DNA of the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment.

The challenges for the manmade fiber industry are manifold and Oerlikon shows its customers solutions:

1. Choosing the right business model
Price pressure on fiber and yarn manufacturers is growing due to global market consolidation. Here it is important to position oneself correctly. Are you producing polyester, nylon or polypropylene for the niche market and skimming off good margins with innovative products and ingenious material properties, or are you looking for business success through economies of scale in the volume market such as the constantly growing apparel sector? Oerlikon has the right answers for both business models. And the most important thing: the market leader supplies all solutions from a single source. See for yourself at the world premieres of the machine and system concepts of WINGS FDY PA6, BCF S8 Tricolor and the revolutionary eAFK Evo texturing machine.

2. Finding alternatives for good personnel
Finding good operators in the manmade fiber industry is becoming increasingly difficult, even in emerging industrial nations such as China, India and Turkey. The solution is obvious. What, for example, the automotive industry achieved years ago with the 3rd Industrial Revolution is now also taking its course in the textile industry. And at the same time it is even shifting up a gear. In the next step, automation in combination with digitization will lead to new, sustainable production. Oerlikon will be showing how automation and digitization interact at ITMA. Self-learning machines and systems, artificial intelligence (AI), remote services and edge computing are just a few of the key words in the digital half of the new Oerlikon Manmade Fibers DNA.

3. Guarantee quality and traceability
The qualities of the fibers and yarns must meet the highest demands and their production must be traceable throughout the textile value chain. This no longer only plays an important role in the automotive industry, where safety is of paramount importance. Other branches of industry that use fibers, yarns and nonwovens also want to know where the raw materials they produce for consumer articles come from. Legal regulations are demanding this more and more frequently. Oerlikon offers optimal solutions with its DIN ISO certified manufacturing processes. More than half of the world's manmade fiber producers are convinced every day that the qualities produced on Oerlikon Barmag, Oerlikon Neumag and Oerlikon Nonwoven equipment are right – and all visitors to ITMA can do the same on site.

4. Efficient and sustainable production
In the future, the materials produced from manmade fibers must become part of a further improved global recycling economy. The recycling of polyester – with over 80% market share the most frequently used manmade fiber in the world – has not only been on the agenda since today. Oerlikon already has solutions at hand: from PET bottles to fibers and filaments, to textiles and carpets. ITMA is the next step. With the VacuFil® Oerlikon in cooperation with the subsidiary company BBEngineering presents the world premiere No. 4 – a recycling solution within a running polyester production with a waste-free approach.

Vision becomes reality
The Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment thus demonstrates what the ITMA in Barcelona promises as the world's leading trade fair for textile machinery and plant construction: "Innovating the world of textiles – sourcing for a sustainable future". In Hall 7, A101, this is already reality.

At ITMA 2019 in Barcelona from June 20-26 FONG’S Europe, a member of CHTC FONG’S International Group, will be providing details of its new THEN Supratec LTM hydraulic long-tube dyeing machine.

This machine is distinguished by the ability to vary the angle of the Then Flexkier for either dry (jet) or wet (overflow) mode dyeing, in order to optimise the dye liquor ratio – from 1:15 down to 1:4 – depending on the materials being dyed.

This translates into considerable savings in auxiliaries, water and energy.

The Supratec LTM is suitable for the treatment of both woven and knitted fabrics ranging from the most sensitive articles to heavyweight materials within the weight range of 25 g/lm to 380 g/lm, and operates at very low tension due to the extremely low lifting height between the variable nozzle and the plaited fabric.

“Existing Supratec machines on the market are providing excellent performance for a wide range of delicate synthetic fabrics, from polyester to polyamide with high content of elastane,” says FONG’S Europe Director of Sales and Marketing Richard Fander. “Heat-setting can often can be avoided, which improves the handle of the material and saves costs and the lengthwise-elongation of the fabric being treated is lower than on winch-driven machines.”

The innovative technology addresses the growing need for on-demand textile design and production

Kornit Digital, a global market leader in digital textile printing innovation, has announced the introduction of the new Kornit Presto, the only industrial single-step solution for direct-to-fabric printing. The Kornit Presto solution eliminates the need for pre and post treatment of fabric and allows for high-quality printing on a broad variety of fabric types and applications. The Kornit Presto does not consume water in the printing process, making it a environmentally friendly solution.

The new Kornit Presto comes with the NeoPigment Robusto, a Pigment-based ink. Implemented into the Kornit NeoPigmentTM process, the Robusto provides above industry standard wash and rub results and exceptional color fastness across a wide fabric and application range. The Robusto enjoys faster physical and chemical bonding characteristics, enabling a significantly shorter curing time, while providing quality and a wide color gamut.

The Kornit Presto solution suits a wide range of business and application needs in a variety of industry segments, including fast growing segments within the on-demand fashion and home décor markets. It is a highly productive solution, available in multiple configurations and able to print 450 square meters per hour.

Gart Davis, CEO at Spoonflower, the world’s first web-based service for custom, on-demand fabric and design creation and a long-time Kornit customer, commented, “We were thrilled to be able to test the new system and found the Presto to be in a class by itself; it prints beautifully on all kinds of fabrics, in a single-step, with an environmentally friendly dry process, and now at a multiple of productivity.  Our partnership with Kornit continues to be fundamental to our mission to make custom fabric accessible to designers, creative individuals and small businesses all over the world. We can’t wait to get going.”

Swiss textile innovator HeiQ partners with BUFF® on their new CoolNet UV+® fabric to stay dry and feel cool. For 25 years, BUFF® has premiered and innovated the tubular headwear category. Headquartered in Spain, the company was founded to keep warm the founder’s neck and head during his crosscountry motorcycle rides. Today, BUFF® continues its heritage of quality and reliability of multifunctional headwear.

HeiQ Smart Temp is an intelligent thermoregulation technology. Cooling is activated by rising body temperature and deactivated once cooling is complete. HeiQ Smart Temp keeps the wearer cooler, dryer and more comfortable.
“HeiQ and BUFF® have a shared vision of quality and reliability in our products. With the new CoolNet UV+® fabric, we are pleased that our HeiQ Smart Temp technology will allow the consumer to Stay Dry and Feel Cool”, says Christian von Uthmann, HeiQ’s Chief Sales Officer.

Just like the first product from BUFF® in 1991, the new CoolNet UV+® was developed to keep customers safe and cool from the sun’s dangerous UV rays. Today the fabric is a recycled performance polyester microfiber with HeiQ Smart Temp’s activated cooling technology to keep the wearer cool and comfortable. The fabric also includes UPF 50+ sun protection, offers a 4-way ULTRA stretch weave and is 100% seamless for the perfect fit.