From the Sector

• “Fashion Goes Digital” takes the Lead in Fashion Technology
• Customers get Industry 4.0-ready as Lectra unveiled latest product offerings and shared insights at annual fashion VIP event

Lectra, the technological partner for companies using fabrics and leather, put theory into practice at its recent fashion event by unveiling their latest 4.0 Cutting Room to more than 100 privileged industry professionals.

“Fashion Goes Digital” drew industry stakeholders and market experts from 20 countries, who gathered at Lectra’s International Advanced Technology Center (IATC) in Bordeaux-Cestas, France, to examine the real-life application of digitalization in fashion.

While the topic of digitalization served as a backdrop for the event, there was a recurring theme at the forefront: fashion companies need Industry 4.0 technology and support in order to be more precise in meeting the evolving needs of their digitally savvy consumers.
Nick Chiarelli, Client Partner of Foresight Factory, shed light on new business opportunities for fashion, Nora Kühner, founder of Nora Kühner Fashion Design Consulting, used her designer perspective to decode the digital future of product development, and Fabrizio Fantini, founder of Evo Pricing, showed participants how machine learning could help fashion companies predict consumer demand and avoid waste.

“While speaking about the future challenges and trends in fashion and luxury, the trend now is to use analytics to drive the entire production process,” highlighted Stephen Taylor, Principal Director of Kurt Salmon.

Waruna Tennakoon, General Manager of Group Cutting, Brandix, and Ajith Perera General Manager of Mathliya Plant, MAS Kreeda, also shared their Lectra customer experience. Based in Sri Lanka, both companies have established themselves as the country’s largest apparel exporters, with Brandix specializing in producing intimate and activewear, and MAS Kreeda in sportswear.

“Thanks to the digital revolution, consumers are now more specific in their demands. This will cause a shift in mass manufacturing where there will be smaller-volume orders coming in at a faster rate. As a result, manufacturing models have to be more agile in the immediate future,” explained Ajith Perera, “I am happy to see that Lectra is already spearheading this change by providing us with the necessary technology to help us meet market demand.”

There was no better time to put digitalization into context than during “Fashion Goes Digital”.
VIP guests got a sneak preview of the brand new, fully automated cutting room solution for fashion and apparel. Lectra’s Cutting Room 4.0 is an embodiment of Lectra’s commitment to empowering its customers with the best solutions to thrive in this new digital era. This avant-garde technology leverages industry 4.0 principles to provide greater agility, throughput, cost efficiency and in particular scalability in order to respond seamlessly to small batches orders and shorter lead times.

Jean-Yves Collet, CEO of Treize Roches Couture, a high-end French womenswear manufacturer, provided a testimonial on why his company chose to be one of the first to adopt this new solution. He explained how Lectra’s latest technology would help Treize Roches speed up their artisanal production process to bring products faster to market.

“When we discussed the possibility of a made-to-order production project, we could really foresee the benefits both in terms of quality and productivity. Industry 4.0 solutions do not yet exist in garment manufacturing. This is why we have decided to develop an Industry 4.0 cutting room. This will allow us, in the preparatory stages to automate the processes as much as possible and improve quality, productivity and training time.”

“We have unveiled our strategy last year where we have identified Industry 4.0 and digitalization as our key drivers. Our goal for this event is to show that we are, indeed, living and breathing Industry 4.0 and we do have what it takes to help our customers succeed in this era. Our latest cutting room 4.0 shows that we are not just talking about the future of fashion anymore, we are living in it right now as we speak,” concluded Céline Choussy Bedouet, Chief Marketing and Communications Officer, Lectra.

• Clean Green Certified Companies Commemorate Earth Day 2018

U.S. Clean Green certified laundries are marking Earth Day 2018 (April 22) by commending the 250,000+ businesses across the nation that use such certified operations for linen, uniform and facility services.

Selecting a Clean Green certified company reflects concern for maximizing sustainability in a business supply chain. Private- and public-sector organizations who choose such a provider are learning that how their reusable textiles are supplied, laundered and maintained is a factor in their environmental impact.
Clean Green operations use a third party (TRSA) to verify their conservation practices and quantify their compliance with water and energy use thresholds.

Laundered, reusable linens, uniforms, towels, mats and other products provided by the linen, uniform and facility services industry to enhance businesses’ image and provide clean, safe environments for their employees and patrons. Most Americans benefit from the industry at least once per week, either at work or by patronizing restaurants, healthcare facilities, hotels and other retail and service establishments.

Nearly 50 of the industry’s companies are Clean Green certified, serving business customers from more than 150 locations combined nationwide. These launderers work with customers to connect the certification to their efforts to minimize their carbon footprint. Certified operators report to TRSA that customers and prospects ask them about green laundry initiatives. These include environmentally friendly wash chemistry, water reuse and recycling, recapturing heat from hot water headed down the drain and operating efficient delivery routes.

“They are far more likely to inquire about the sum of environmentally friendly practices as opposed to the parts,” observes TRSA President and CEO Joseph Ricci of the industry’s customers. Many document their justification of purchase decisions, though, such as government agencies that profile the winners of contract bids. “Clean Green companies bidding for their work mention the certification in their sales promotion and these profiles reflect it.”

Linen and uniform services conserve water and energy best by using high-capacity, high-efficiency equipment, he pointed out, controlling expenses and thereby aiding efforts to keep service pricing under control. “It is the perfect sustainable business model. Business interests and environmental concerns align. Improving efficiencies reduces costs and reduces the impact on the environment,” Ricci says.

Based on the U.S. Census of the industry’s sales and a TRSA survey of member financial data, the association estimates that nearly 3 million businesses use the industry’s services. Clean Green companies are challenged to capture more of these industry customers. Their collective Earth Day 2018 campaign gives them an opportunity to highlight the extent to which their individual efficiencies have contributed to a nationwide movement. Publicizing their own gains around Earth Day can better qualify and quantify their environmental virtues to encourage detailed comparison with competitors’ efficiencies, Ricci noted.

• Innovative Textile Processes

Innovations are welcome. Based on innovations, many changes in textile processing are leading to more efficiency in process workflows. At the International Cotton Conference in Bremen on Wednesday, March 21st, Session IV Textile Processing, which takes place from 4:00 pm to 6:00 pm, is dedicated to this subject area and attractive examples.

Sustainable
Michael Tuschak, Mayer & Cie., Germany, informs about the 3-in-1 concept of Spinitsystems. Spinning, cleaning and knitting are all combined in one machine. This enables the production process of high-quality single jersey knitwear to be shortened significantly, which saves energy costs and reduces CO2 emissions.

Indigo.
An old dye returns to glory. Dr. Dean Etheridge of Texas Tech University, USA, talks about a new, innovative indigo dyeing process for cotton yarns using foam. This saves large amounts of water and is now increasingly being used by major brands in jeans production.

Efficient.
Amin Leder, Trützschler GmbH & Co. KG, Germany, presents a technique in which the stretching process for rotor yarn production does not take place in a separate machine, but is integrated into the carding. This makes it possible to efficiently process even cotton with a higher waste content.

Overview.
Harald Schwippel, from Rieter, Switzerland, summarises all four major spinning technologies for cotton – ring spinning, compact spinning, rotor spinning and air-jet spinning. His talk provides an overview of the possibilities that each of these processes currently offers for the manufacture of different yarns and the most efficient options for different applications.

More to know
In the run-up to the International Cotton Conference, the Fibre Institute Bremen and the Cotton Exchange are organising a specific seminar for spinning mills on Tuesday, dealing with the efficient handling of contaminants in cotton, from elimination in production to removal in winding. On Friday morning, Expert Session IX deals with the exchange of the latest research results, e.g. in the field of ginning in relation to cotton quality, or the important issue of checking the traceability of GMO-free cotton.

Baldwin Technology Company Inc.’s exclusive and innovative Precision Application System—which realizes substantial savings of water, chemistry and energy while increasing productivity—was designed with companies like HanesBrands in mind.

HanesBrands—whose venerable apparel lines include Hanes, Champion, Playtex, Bali and Maidenform, to name a few—has set significant environmental stewardship goals to reduce energy consumption and water use. The company’s recent investment in Baldwin’s Precision Application Systems, with a textile finishing technology that allows for accurate and controlled placement and therefore, reduced use of end-of-line chemicals and water, will help HanesBrands achieve its environmental sustainability goals. Additionally, Baldwin’s groundbreaking application system improves output through greater flexibility, fewer production steps and increased uptime.

Mike Abbott, HanesBrands Global Director of Research and Innovation, said: “Baldwin fulfilled our requirements to provide a solution that optimizes our productivity while reducing our environmental impact.” HanesBrands thoroughly evaluated the technology for eight months in live production conditions with positive results. Abbott continued: “During the evaluation period of the system, we have had outstanding results in productivity increase, and we can clearly see that this technology will make a great contribution to our future efficiency and sustainability savings.”

Peter Hultberg, Chief Commercial Officer at Baldwin, said: “We are honored to partner with one of the world’s strongest apparel brands to help the company achieve not only its business goals, but also its corporate responsibility goals. The trust the HanesBrands team placed in Baldwin and our innovative application technology marks an important milestone for Baldwin and our quest to redefine the standards of sustainable textile finishing.”

The HanesBrands contract includes an option to supply 15 additional Precision Application Systems. 

Cost-efficient BCF yarn production for demanding processes with Sytec One from Oerlikon Neumag

Cost-efficient production of carpet yarns beyond commodity products can constitute a challenge. Highly standardized production systems must strike compromises with regard to throughput, quality or cost-efficiency. At the Domotex 2018, the world's largest trade fair for floor coverings, Oerlikon Neumag will present the Sytec One solution for demanding BCF processes.

The Sytec One is a BCF plant with only one end per position. Due to this single-end characteristic, it is particularly well suited for demanding production processes, such as recycled polyester or fine filaments. The reason: In the event of a yarn break, only one end breaks. All the other positions are not affected and continue to run. As a result, this plant has a higher efficiency compared with a multi-end technology plant. For example, with ten breaks a day, the efficiency of the Sytec One is still over 98%, while a threeend technology achieves only 92% efficiency.

Higher productivity due to the straight yarn path

The machine concept of the Sytec One with its absolutely straight yarn path in spinning and texturing also enables significantly higher process speeds compared to multi-end technologies. This results in a speed increase of up to 15%. In addition to standard processes, more demanding processes with higher break rates play an increasingly important role. "The product mix is critical to the choice of technology," said Martin Rademacher, vice president of sales Oerlikon Neumag. "We are in the comfortable position of being able to offer our customers both a single-end and a three-end technology."

Lectra has leveraged more than 10 years of experience in connected manufacturing to offer Versalis®, an innovative digital solution designed to cut leather without compromise on quality. Featuring a powerful automatic nesting system for overall improvements in efficiency, the fully automated solution enables automotive leather suppliers to cut costs, improve productivity and minimize waste while also establishing a pathway to value-added Industry 4.0 processes.

Currently, almost 90% of leather used for automotive applications is cut using manual die presses, which require designers to build a physical prototype and finalize the design through trial and error. Lectra offers a fully digitalized leather solution from prototyping to cut parts—when used in combination with Lectra’s 3D prototyping and pattern-making software, Versalis digital leather cutting solution enables a 12-16 week reduction in development and launch cycles for vehicle seating models.
During the leather-cutting phase, the latest release of Versalis LeatherSuite allows automotive leather suppliers to achieve up to 15% greater productivity. Lectra’s end-to-end automotive leather offering furthermore guarantees optimal uptime through an extensive worldwide support network of field engineers and technical experts.
"Lectra focuses on a consultative approach that allows it to fully understand the customer’s needs before building a solution comprising software, hardware, consulting, training, and after-sales support,” said Frost & Sullivan Industry Analyst Kamalesh Mohanarangam. "Lectra’s equipment is fitted with more than 200 sensors that predict failure and immediately report issues to its call centres. This product feature and service has resulted in 98% uptime and very fast mean time to repair."

Although digital leather cutting solutions are an investment, leather cutters and Tier-1 suppliers have begun to recognize the value of these products. On average, Lectra’s solutions help customers achieve up to 7% savings on leather compared to manual die-press methods by minimizing human error and variability in the cutting room. A benchmark test of leather trim cutting for door panels demonstrated a 3.5% gain in material made possible by Versalis’ superior nesting capabilities compared to the customer’s yield using manual nesting with die press machines, representing potential savings of €9 million per year.
Versalis is the fruit of significant R&D investment for the company, which has always made re-investment of capital a priority. As part of a transformational plan, Lectra spent more than €50 million in investments between 2011 and 2015. With Lectra’s new strategy focusing on supporting their customers’ transition to Industry 4.0 standards, Lectra will increase the share of revenues dedicated to R&D to 10% for the period from 2017 to 2019, representing a rise of about 50% between 2016 and 2019.