From the Sector

• Eine Wohlfühloase für Hunde

Ihre gemeinsame Liebe zu Hunden hat Sandra Baumeister und Katja Dalhöfer aus München zusammengeführt und ihre Freundschaft begründet. 2017 gingen sie mit ihrer Geschäftsidee an den Start, modische und hochwertige Hundebetten, Hundegeschirre und Accessoires zu produzieren und zu vertreiben.

Ihr Unternehmen, die StyleSnout® GmbH, hat nun das Hundebett „Die Insel“ entwickelt, in denen die INSQIN® Technologie von Covestro zum Einsatz kommt: Die Oberfläche der Betten ist mit einem wässrigen Polyurethansystem beschichtet. Diese Textilbeschichtung erschwert, dass das Bett auf dem Fußboden verrutscht, und erhöht zugleich die Widerstandskraft gegenüber mechanischen Belastungen etwa durch Bisse oder Pfoten.

Die StyleSnout® Inseln lassen Hunde in ihr eigenes Paradies eintauchen. Das Hundebett lädt nicht nur zum kuscheligen Chillen ein, sondern ist auch ein Möbel, das sich durch das stilvolle Design in jede Wohnsituation einfügt. Die Insel ist auch für Welpen und ältere Hunde perfekt geeignet. Die kleine Mulde in der Mitte sowie die hohen weichen Ränder laden zum Verstecken und zum Abtauchen ein – sei es für das Mittagschläfchen, die Nachtruhe oder einfach nur zum entspannten Beobachten.

Im Fokus: nachhaltige Textilbeschichtung

„Wir verzichten bei unseren StyleSnout® Produkten bewusst auf tierische Materialien wie Echtleder oder echtes Fell“, erläutert Katja Dalhöfer. „Aber auch darüber hinaus ist uns das Thema Nachhaltigkeit sehr wichtig.“ Die INSQIN® Technologie passt perfekt zu dieser Philosophie. Denn sie ermöglicht die lösemittelfreie Produktion von Funktionstextilien und Kunstleder, deren ökologischer Fußabdruck bedeutend geringer ist als derjenige von konventionellen Polyurethan-Beschichtungen.

Präsentiert wird das Hundebett während der Techtextil Messe auf dem Stand von Covestro, Nummer D 22 in Halle 3.0. Der Auftritt des Unternehmens auf dieser Messe, die vom 14. bis 17. Mai in Frankfurt am Main stattfindet, steht unter dem Motto „Material Solutions inspired by Sustainnovation“.

Wie für Menschen gilt auch für Hunde das Sprichwort „Wie man sich bettet, so liegt man“ – davon jedenfalls sind die Geschäftsführerinnen von StyleSnout® überzeugt. Zusätzlich gibt es orthopädische Hundebetten wie „The Beach“ oder „Schnauzen-Traum“ mit einer viskoelastischen Memory-Schaum-Matratze. Ihnen liegt das Thema Hundeentspannung auch abseits des Vertriebs von Hundebetten und Hundekuschelplätzen am Herzen. So absolvieren Sandra Baumeister und Katja Dahlhöfer gerade eine Ausbildung zum Tellington TTouch® Coach. Sandra Baumeister ist zudem ausgebildetete Hundetrainerin.

Und noch in einer anderen Hinsicht ist das Tierwohl extrem wichtig für die beiden Unternehmerinnen, die selber vier Hunde halten: Sie engagieren sich seit vielen Jahren für notleidende Tiere in Rumänien mit ihrem eigenen Tierschutzverein, in dem sie ehrenamtlich tätig sind. StyleSnout® spendet ein Prozent seines Umsatzes an ausgewählte Tierschutzprojekte.

imogo is a new Swedish company formed by a team with long experience in textile processing technology. It is now boldly aiming to change the face of the textile manufacturing industry with its new Dye-Max spray dyeing technology, to be introduced to the market at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona.

While still at the prototype stage, and with a first full-scale line currently under construction and due to be demonstrated this Autumn before delivery, the DyeMax nevertheless promises to slash the use of fresh water, waste water, energy and chemicals by as much as 90% compared to conventional jet dyeing systems.

Spray cassettes
Its application unit consists of a closed chamber containing a series of spray cassettes with precision nozzles for accurate and consistent coverage, in combination with the patented imogo pro speed valve that controls the volume to be applied. The chamber is equipped with an exhaust system and droplet separator to ensure that the environment around the unit is free from particles.

“The spray cassettes are a key part in the Dye-Max line,” explains Imogo’s founding partner Per Stenflo. “There is one set of spray cassettes for each of the three separate dye dispersion feed lines and they can be easily exchanged without the need for tools in less than a minute. This allows for extremely fast changeovers between different colours without the need for cleaning. And because the spray cassettes are removable, all maintenance can be performed off line. 
After applying the dye dispersion the fabric is rolled onto a shaft and moved to the autoclave for deep dye fixation via heat and pressure.”

The savings in treatment water the Dye-Max achieves are due to the extremely low liquor ratio of 0.5 litres per kilo of fabric Stenflo adds. 

“At the same time, the low liquor ratio and the spray process require considerably less auxiliary chemistry to start with, and all of it is used in the process, which also greatly reduces the production of waste water, with only 20 litres being required for wash at changeovers. The low liquid content in the fabric meanwhile minimises the energy needed for fixation.”

The Dye-Max has a working speed of up to 50m/min with the practical speed determined by the fabric weight and application volume. 
 

On April 11^th, 2019, the 9 Partner Institutes of the AZL opened the doors of their machinery halls and research labs to provide an extensive and on-site insight into the research and development capaci-ties in the field of lightweight production and composites at the RWTH Aachen Campus. As a special highlight of this year, the AZL presented the "iComposite 4.0" self-optimizing process chain: fiber-spraying - dry fiber placement - adaptive RTM as well as AZL´s new prototype machine development "Ultra-Fast Consolidator Machine" for highly productive and flexible processing of thermoplastic tapes with in-situ consolidation (winner of the JEC World Innovation Award 2019).

More than 100 Participants from external companies as well as from the AZL Network had the possibility to experience updates on the latest lightweight production technologies and equipment, get to know the bene-fital infrastructure on the Campus and network with internationally represented companies of the entire light-weight value chain researches by taking part in five guided tours to the lightweight institutes.

The AZL brought together content in the field of textiles (ITA), plastics and composite materials (IKV), pro-duction technology (WZL, IPT, ILT, and ISF), quality assurance and production-integrated measurement technology (WZL), lightweight design (SLA), automotive production (IKA) as well as multi-material systems and process integration (AZL).

Once a year at the Open Day, the AZL offers an exclusive and widespread unique insight into the R&D capacities of the institutes in the field of lightweight and composite technologies on the campus of RWTH Aachen University. Within walking distance, researchers and students from 9 institutes are working on the latest technologies for the cost-efficient development and production of lightweight components within one of the largest research landscapes in Europe. The research, closely involving industrial companies, covers the entire value chain from fiber production, materials and processing technology to quality assurance and com-ponent testing.

• Von atmungsaktiver Outdoorkleidung bis zu Smart Textiles

Auf der Techtextil 2019 präsentiert Covestro an seinem Stand Nummer D22 in Halle 3.0 neue und nachhaltige Entwicklungen mit der INSQIN® Technologie für wässrige Textilbeschichtungen sowie eine wässrige Polyurethan (PU)-Dispersion, die eine bioabbaubare Textilbeschichtung ermöglicht. Besucher können sich dort außerdem über hautfreundliche Beschichtungen für medizinische Textilien, eine neue TPU-Faser sowie über Folienlösungen zum Beispiel für Smart Textiles informieren.

Ein Highlight-Thema ist diesmal atmungsaktive und trotzdem wasserdichte Outdoor-Kleidung. Sie soll Jogger oder Wanderer vor Regen schützen, aber auch den Schweiß der Haut nach außen entweichen lassen. Bei der INSQIN® Technologie werden die Textilien mit wässrigen Polyurethan (PU)-Dispersionen ohne Einsatz von Lösemitteln beschichtet.

This year, AZL won the JEC AWARD 2019 for the development of the new machine system “Ultra-Fast Consolidator Machine”. This innovative machine system is a result of an 18-months AZL Joint Partner Project, conducted in 2017-2018 by the research partners AZL Aachen and Fraunhofer IPT Aachen, in cooperation with industrial partner companies including Conbility, Covestro, Engel, Evonik, Fagor Arrasate, Faurecia SE, Laserline, Mitsui Chemicals, Mubea Carbo Tech, Philips Photonics, SSDT and Toyota (in alphabetical order).

The new UItra-Fast Consolidator Machine offers both high flexibility and mass production of tailored thermoplastic laminates with reduced scrap. Fully consolidated multi-layer laminates with different fiber directions and minimized scrap (tailored blanks) can be produced in cycle times below 5 seconds with this new scalable machine setup. This individualized mass production is accomplished by a combination of laser-assisted tape placement with in-situ consolidation and a piece-flow principle, which is state of the art in the printing industry but has not been used in such a way within composite production. The achievable productivity is enhanced to more than 500 kg/hour by this piece-flow principle with carriers moved through multiple application stations which are equipped with multiple tape placement applicators. The new machine is scalable: multiple application stations can be added, e.g. for each layer one station for mass production or for each fiber direction one station with a carrier-conveyor carousel: here the carriers are moved multiple times through the application stations.

The system will be commercialized by some of the industrial partners in 2019. The real machine setup has been presented at the AZL booth during the JEC Exhibition in Paris 2019.

The follow-up project has just started and is still open to join for industrial partners. This follow-up project comprises a further upscale of the machine system as well as a preparation of the commercialization by long-term durability tests and further process optimizations using different tape materials.

With over 5,000 tailored installations for a range of industries installed in over 60 countries, Eton Systems, headquartered in Gånghester, Sweden, has established a reputation as a clear leader in the field of complete material handling systems.

At ITMA 2019 in Barcelona from June 20-26th, the company will be demonstrating a complete installation based on a future production concept, with advanced software providing real-time information covering every aspect of the process.

“Our systems are a natural fit with the major Industry 4.0 networked manufacturing plants that are now being constructed worldwide for sectors such as the garment and home textiles manufacturing and automotive industries,” says Eton’s Sales and Commercial Director Roger Ryrlén. “We have had a very busy last 12 months, with more major projects in the pipeline. We understand, however, that one solution does not fit all situations, which is why we think in terms of custom-made solutions matched to specific customer needs. Buying a system from us, is buying a solution and a partnership. Each system includes support, service, training and knowledge built on more than 70 years of experience. When a customer invests in an Eton System the increased efficiency normally results in savings of between 40-60%.”

A typical system consists of overhead conveyors with individually-addressable product carriers which automatically steer their way through programmed operation sequences. They are monitored by a computer providing all the necessary data for optimally measuring and managing processes. The systems are also highly flexible and can be rapidly modified to changes in the production line or the need for expansion.

Options for smart factories
Eton’s Flexible Productivity Concept (FPC) is based on two system platforms with a wide range of options, including:

• Multiple rails for sorting at workstations.
• Buffering
• Automatic loading devices, pick-ups and work delivery robots.
• Bridges and elevators that link systems and floors.
• Historical links to products after completion.
• Module-based software.

Via an addressable product carrier, an Eton system transports all the components of a complete product through the manufacturing process.

Eton Systems will be at stand A214, in Hall 2 at the Barcelona exhibition.

• Wasserbasiert, wasserdicht und wasserdampf-durchlässig

Outdoor-Kleidung soll Jogger oder Wanderer bei Regen schützen, aber auch den Schweiß der Haut nach außen durchlassen. Darüber hinaus legen immer mehr Käufer von Outdoor-Textilien Wert auf Nachhaltigkeit. Mit der INSQIN® Technologie, die für wässrige Textilbeschichtungen ohne Einsatz von Lösemitteln steht, lassen sich alle drei Anforderungen zugleich erfüllen. Auf der European Coatings Show 2019 vom 19. bis 21. März präsentiert Covestro in seiner „City of Sustainnovation“ (Halle 4A, Stand 528) Outdoor-Kleidung, die ihre funktionellen Eigenschaften dieser Beschichtungstechnologie verdankt.

Zwei Schichten sind für das weiche und angenehme Gefühl verantwortlich, das die präsentierte Outdoor-Kleidung vermittelt: ein Haftstrich, der auf der Polyurethan (PU)-Dispersion Impraperm® DL 5310 basiert, und ein Deckstrich auf Basis der PU-Dispersion Impraperm® DL 5249. Covestro bietet seinen Kunden beide Produkte seit ein paar Monaten an.

Ein Quadratmeter Textil, das mit einem solchen INSQIN® System beschichtet ist, lässt pro Tag mehr als fünf Kilogramm Wasserdampf durch. Beide Schichten tragen damit zu einer guten Atmungsaktivität bei. Andererseits widerstehen beschichtete Kleidungsstücke im Test einer Wassersäule von mehr als acht Metern. Die Wassersäule ist ein Maß dafür, wie wasserdicht ein Funktionstextil ist: Bei der Messung nach DIN EN ISO 811 wird die Außenseite des Textils der Flüssigkeit ausgesetzt. Der Druck des Wassers wird dann kontinuierlich erhöht – so lange, bis der dritte Tropfen auf der Innenseite zu sehen ist. Der dann wirkende Druck wird in Millimetern Wassersäule angegeben.

Vielfältig einsetzbar – nicht nur für Textilien
„Man kann sowohl die Atmungsaktivität als auch die Wasserfestigkeit der Beschichtung sehr gut auf den Einsatzzweck und die Funktion des Textils hin anpassen“, sagt Thomas Michaelis von Covestro. Der Leiter Textilbeschichtung für die Region Europa, Naher Osten, Afrika und Lateinamerika (EMEA/LA) ergänzt: „Maßgeschneiderte Eigenschaften lassen sich vor allem durch die Variation der Formulierung und der Schichtdicken erreichen.“ Aufgrund der vielfältigen Einstellungsmöglichkeiten des INSQIN® Systems beschränkt sich sein Einsatz keineswegs auf Kleidungsstücke. Von ihm profitieren auch Besitzer von Rucksäcken, Schuhen und Handschuhen.

Die wasserbasierten Beschichtungen auf Basis von Impraperm® DL 5310 und Impraperm® DL 5249 verleihen dem Kleidungsstück auf der ganzen Oberfläche eine gute und gleichmäßige Atmungsaktivität. Das ist ein klares Plus gegenüber einer anderen Technologie für Outdoor-Kleidung, bei der Membranfolien punktweise mit dem Textil verklebt werden. Denn der Kleber ist üblicherweise nicht atmungsaktiv, so dass an den Klebepunkten kein Wasserdampf nach außen transportiert wird. Die wässrigen Impraperm® Dispersionen eröffnen allerdings nicht nur eine Alternative zu dieser Membrantechnologie, sondern lassen sich auch verwenden, um diese zu verbessern: Als Kleber eingesetzt, gewährleisten sie auch an den Klebepunkten eine gute Durchlässigkeit für Wasserdampf.

With portfolio expansion and future development of the industry in sight, the organisers of Texprocess India and Gartex India have entered into a strategic alliance to form a unified industry platform ‘Gartex Texprocess India’. The event will be part of Messe Frankfurt’s Texpertise Network leveraging on the group’s strong global network and expertise in the sector.
 
Leading in both apparel consumption and exports, India holds the second largest textile manufacturing capacity globally with the textile machinery sector witnessing a growth of 8-10 percent year on year. As the world's second largest exporter of textiles and clothing projected to reach USD 300 billion by 2024, Indian apparel manufacturers are moving towards increasing their manufacturing capacities and upgrading technology, giving rise to automation garmenting processes to enter the Indian market. Having made its debut in 2016, both Texprocess India and Gartex India received tremendous response from the industry with leading associations and companies in the garment and textile machinery sector coming forward to support the shows.
 
At the internationally renowned Texprocess, exhibitors from around the world converge to present the latest machines, plants, processes and services for the manufacture of garments and textile and flexible materials. While Texprocess India was launched as a pavilion to create an innovation platform for garment-manufacturing and textile processing at Techtextil India tradeshow in Mumbai, Gartex India exhibition was held annually in New Delhi and has grown wider in scope covering not just garment and textile manufacturing value chain but has also added segments like innerwear manufacturing zone, Laundry & Denim show along the way in addition to digital textile printing, embroidery and other existing verticals. With the merger of the two strong textile trade fair brands, the organisers, Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs India Pvt Ltd and MEX Exhibitions, aspire to work in collaboration for India’s textile industry development, facilitating global sourcing and networking in the textile value chains.

• Innovative BCF S8 platform technology opens up new carpet yarn industry markets for Oerlikon Neumag customers

World premiere at the DOMOTEX World Trade Fair for Carpets and Floor Coverings in Hanover: between January 11 bis 14, 2019‎, Oerlikon Neumag will be showcasing its innovative new development, the BCF S8, to a wide audience for the very first time in Hall 11, Stand B36. Whether commodities or niche products – the new BCF S8 platform technology offers manufacturers of BCF carpet yarns decisive arguments for responding to constantly rising cost pressures and the trend for greater efficiency and quality in fiercely-competitive markets. World record: the system achieves never-seen-before spinning speeds and is able to simultaneously spin up to 700 filaments and produce fine titers of up to 2.5 dpf. This superlative performance is guaranteed by numerous individual innovations in the new platform and, for the first time, also in a new human-machine interface (HMI)-based control system, which opens the door to the digital age of smart carpet yarn manufacturing wide. At the ITMA ASIA 2018, the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment had already announced that it would be presenting revolutionary solutions in 2019 – both in hardware and software. And the DOMOTEX marks only the start.

According to manufacturer information, the new BCF S8 is the most efficient Oerlikon Neumag BCF system of all times. “We have succeeded in achieving a new level of greater productivity and even broader product diversity. These allow our clientèle to better cater to changing market requirements and achieve a competitive edge in tough market conditions”, explains Martin Rademacher, Vice President Sales Oerlikon Neumag. As a pre-taste, the machine specialists from Neumünster are serving up performance figures and results from comprehensive trials conducted at their own BCF technology center as well as from two pilot systems which have been tried and tested within the market for months now.

BCF S8 performance in numbers
With up to 700 potential filaments per yarn end, the BCF S8 is raising the benchmark considerably compared to the Oerlikon Neumag S+ BCF system (400 filaments) that has dominated the global market to date. Oerlikon Neumag guarantees fine titers of up to 2.5 dpf. Furthermore, the process speed is higher than ever before – 3,700 m/min (winder speed). This permits throughputs of up to 15 percent greater compared to predecessor technologies. Overall, system efficiency is 99 percent – almost unbeatable. True to the Oerlikon Segments Manmade Fibers segment e-save philosophy, energy savings of up to 5 percent per kilogram of yarn are achievable.

BCF S8 innovations – from straight yarn paths to large cooling drums

This comprehensive progress has been achieved with numerous smart innovations. To this end, one key element above all has been optimized. The yarn path from the spinning system to the new, large cooling drum has now been almost completely straightened. This yarn path, unique to the BCF market to date, ensures that the individual filaments are subjected to minimum friction, hence once again considerably reducing yarn breaks and optimizing the overall production process. Especially noteworthy here are the, for the first time, straight yarn inlet in the texturing head – guaranteeing superior yarn quality.

And the considerably reduced distance between the heating godet duo and the texturing head also has a positive impact on the texturing process. It ensures a more even twist to the yarn and reduces the compressed air consumption. Furthermore, the texturing chambers can be removed individually, which additionally shortens servicing times. The now closed units also provide the best possible protection for the texturing jets and lamellar chambers.

The 800-mm diameter cooling drum optimally and gently cools the filaments. And this has a positive influence on the yarn quality. The new cooling drum is now equipped with a V groove for all polymers (PET, PA6 and PP) as standard.

The RoTac3 tangling unit, already established within the market, once again reduces the compressed air consumption by around 50%, while the newly-developed Witras III-37 winder achieves production process speeds of 3,700 m/min.

First intuitively-operable human-machine interface (HMI)
The new BCF S8 is the first Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment system equipped with the innovative human-machine interface (HMI) for intelligent controlling and monitoring. In this case, the interface between man and machine has been oriented on the daily requirements of users in BCF production. With its new ‘look and feel’, it supports intuitive operation and offers direct access to important information as well as actual and target values at each take-up position by means of a touch screen. A completely new ‘alarm philosophy’ also simplifies troubleshooting and malfunction analysis. “This smart HMI system is a logical step in the digitalization of our products”, explains Dr. Friedrich Lennemann, Vice President R&D Oerlikon Neumag.

• Lectra provides fashion companies with breakthrough solution that enables them to personalize at ready-to-wear production speed

Paris – Lectra launches its ‘Fashion On Demand’ offer, empowering industry players to uncover new business opportunities brought about by the strong demand for personalization in the fashion industry. Lectra is enabling its customers to produce on demand for the first time ever with an end-to-end offer that automates the entire personalization process from product development to final cutting stages. ‘Fashion On Demand by Lectra’, based on Industry 4.0 principles, is a fruition of four years of R&D with a hundred-strong team of experts, as part of Lectra’s strategic roadmap announced in 2017. There will be a progressive global rollout starting from January 2019.

The digital revolution has prompted consumers to demand personalized products and experiences nowadays. This is an advantageous business model for fashion companies, as it allows them to accurately match supply with demand, and solve a host of problems that regular business models usually face. By simply knowing ahead of time what and how much their consumers want, companies can produce in precise quantities and avoid overstocking and markdowns. In addition, as consumers pay upfront for their orders it improves cash flow for businesses. Fashion companies can use personalization as a way to outshine their competitors and earn consumer loyalty, by offering one-of-a-kind products that make their customers feel exclusive.

While on-demand production is an attractive business model that presents little financial risk, today, fashion companies are encountering huge barriers to entry for this market. Without the savoir-faire and appropriate technology, many companies have to rely on their standard supply-chain infrastructure that lacks the flexibility to create and produce these products. As a result, they have to develop independent workflows for each product, incurring additional production costs, prolonging lead times and even jeopardizing their existing production lines. By having longer delivery times, they face the risk of upsetting their loyal customers who have paid premium prices for their personalized products.

‘Fashion On Demand by Lectra’, is a game changer for the industry. Drawing from 45 years’ experience of working with international retailers, manufacturers and brands, Lectra developed this offer to break down these barriers and empower fashion companies to meet the specific needs of their digitally savvy clientele with best-in-class solutions. ‘Fashion On Demand by Lectra’, available in the form of two packages, one dedicated to made to measure, and the other to customization, is a turnkey solution that automates on-demand production right from order reception to production development stages and the cutting room. Companies can define the product customization criteria and range for each item depending on the package (such as altering product characteristics for customization and pattern adjustments for made to measure) and launch production processes right from the get-go, without interfering with their standard workflows.

Empowering customers through industrial intelligence 2/2

“Personalization, or rather, on-demand production, is going to be an industry-wide phenomenon. It is hence Lectra’s duty, as an Industry 4.0 pioneer, to think ahead of time, and spearhead this movement. Keeping our customers’ best interests in mind, we’ve worked with renowned personalization specialists from different countries to develop this solution. With ‘Fashion On Demand by Lectra’ we’re doing the unthinkable. For the first time in the fashion industry, there will be a comprehensive personalization solution that will be able to perform under the same market conditions as the ready-to-wear segment and produce the same, if not better, results,” says Daniel Harari, Chairman and Chief Executive Officer, Lectra.

This disruptive offer gives fashion companies a 360°-view of the entire personalization process, providing them with the visibility to streamline multiple production processes and manage complex individual demands from custom order to cut piece. Thanks to the supply-chain flexibility that companies gain with this innovative Lectra solution, they will be able to expand their product range and offer more variety, be it womenswear, menswear or childrenswear, and appeal to a broader audience and jump on trends without interrupting their existing production processes. They will not have to waste time on consolidating and communicating information from one production stage to another. This ensures smooth process flows and hence, quick delivery times that can compete with those of standard products.