From the Sector

• Sustainable infrastructure solutions, road safety and health protection

At this year’s Techtextil, Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions will be presenting the trade audience with new applications, special processes and sustainable solutions focusing on the production of industrial textiles. Among other things, the company will be showcasing new technology for charging nonwovens that sets new standards with regards to quality and efficiency. Between June 21 and 24, the discussions will be concentrating on airbags, seat belts, tire cord, geotextiles, filter nonwovens and their diverse applications.

More polyester for airbags
Airbags have become an integral part of our everyday automotive lives. The yarns used in them are made predominantly from polyamide. As a result of increasingly diverse airbag applications and also the increasing size of the systems used, polyester is today used as well, depending on the application requirements and cost-benefit considerations. Against this background, the Oerlikon Barmag technologies make an invaluable contribution. In addition to high productivity and low energy consumption, they particularly excel in terms of their stable production processes. Furthermore, they comply with every high quality standard for airbags, which – as in the case of virtually all other textile products used in vehicle construction – must provide the highest level of safety for vehicle occupants. And all this without any loss of function in any climate and anywhere in the world for the lifetime of the vehicle.

Buckle up!
Seat belts play a decisive role in protecting vehicle occupants. They have to withstand tensile forces in excess of three tons and simultaneously stretch in a controlled manner in emergencies in order to reduce the load in the event of impact. A seat belt comprises approximately 300 filament yarns, whose individual, high-tenacity yarn threads are spun from around 100 individual filaments.

Invisible, but essential – road reinforcement using geotextiles
But it not just inside vehicles, but also under them, that industrial yarns reveal their strengths. Low stretch, ultra-high tenacity, high rigidity – industrial yarns offer outstanding properties for the demanding tasks carried out by geotextiles; for instance, as geogrids in the base course system under asphalt. Normally, geotextiles have extremely high yarn titers of up to 24,000 denier. Oerlikon Barmag system concepts simultaneously manufacture three filament yarns of 6,000 denier each. Due to the high spinning titers, fewer yarns can be plied together to the required geo-yarn titer in a more cost- and energy-efficient manner.

hycuTEC – technological quantum leap for filter media
In the case of its hycuTEC hydro-charging solution, Oerlikon Neumag offers a new technology for charging nonwovens that increases filter efficiency to more than 99.99%. For meltblown producers, this means material savings of 30% with significantly superior filter performance. For end users, the consequence is noticeably improved comfort resulting from significantly reduced breathing resistance. With its considerably lower water and energy consumption, this new development is also a future-proof, sustainable technology.

New high-tech Staple Fiber Technology Center
Extending to around 2,100 m2, Oerlikon Neumag in Neumünster is home to one of the world’s largest staple fiber technology centers. As of now, these state-of-the-art staple fiber technologies are also available for customer-specific trials.

The focus during the planning and the design of the Technology Center was on optimizing components and processes. Here, special attention was paid to ensuring the process and production parameters in the Technology Center system could be simply and reliably transferred to production systems. Here, the fiber tape processing line is modular in design. All components can be combined with each other as required. And comprehensive set-up options supply detailed findings for the respective process for various fiber products.

The Technology Center is also equipped with two spinning positions for mono- and bi-component processes. The same round spin packs are used for both processes, characterized by excellent fiber quality and properties and meanwhile very successfully deployed in all Oerlikon Neumag production systems. Furthermore, the spinning plant is complemented by automation solutions such as spin pack scraper robots, for example.

Following their merger, Freudenberg Performance Materials, Low & Bonar, Mehler Texnologies® and Filc will be presenting their innovative solutions at a joint stand for the first time at this year’s techtextil exhibition in Frankfurt. The focus is on sustainability. Among the highlights are Evolon® RE, a microfilament textile for a wide variety of applications and markets, FILFLEX, a sustainable padding material for car seat covers, and the truck tarpaulin POLYMAR® 8556 ECO CF. Customers will find the world's leading manufacturer of technical textiles at Stand C51 in Hall 12.1.

Evolon® textiles made from recycled PET
With Evolon® RE, Freudenberg Performance Materials is presenting an even more sustainable version of its high-performance microfilament textiles. Evolon® RE is manufactured from an average of 70% recycled polyester, which the company makes by cycling post-consumer PET bottles in-house. Evolon® RE products are available for various applications such as technical packaging, in weights currently ranging from 80g/sqm to 300g/sqm. For high-tech wiping, lightweight Evolon® RE is now available starting from 30g/sqm. The material meets the needs of cleaning specialists for more sustainable wiping solutions. Evolon® RE offers the same high quality and material performance as all other Evolon® textiles.

Tarpaulins made from recycled raw materials presented by Mehler Texnologies®
When it comes to tarpaulins on trucks, both protection of the transport cargo and advertising for the transport company place high demands on the material. Mehler Texnologies® tarpaulin material ranks among the premium products for truck tarpaulins. The company is a pioneer in sustainable development and is showcasing POLYMAR® 8556 ECO CF. This unique material has a 25% share of recycled raw materials in the coating mass. In addition, the material is made with 100% R-PES yarns. The input materials undergo a complex separation and filtering process.

Sustainable padding material for automotive and furniture seat covers presented by FILC
FILFLEX is a soft and flexible padding layer made from nonwovens for automotive and furniture seat covers. It prevents leather from creasing and improves the dimensional stability of the seat covers. In terms of sustainability, its benefit is its 100% PET composition, making FILFLEX easy to recycle. FILFLEX offers customers easier handling during sewing and the seat covering process. End users benefit from the high seating comfort.

Designed by Creative Director Alessandro Michele, adidas x Gucci merges the emblems of the House with those of the iconic sportswear brand. The collection expands on the sartorial streetwear creations that debuted on the runway with a spectrum of sport-inspired pieces, distinguished by the same kaleidoscopic aesthetics of the show.

To present the selection, Alessandro Michele envisioned a series of images inspired by archival catalogs as a cast of characters strikes dynamic poses against brightly colored backdrops alongside sporty props, captured by photographer Carlijn Jacobs.

With the heritage of both brands encoded in a trio of lines, a fixation on stripes plays out across ready-to-wear pieces that echo the silhouettes of athletic staples and leisurewear. Track pants feature the white Three Stripes of adidas on one leg, while the other is defined by the red and green Web of Gucci. Energetic prints portray how motifs like the adidas Trefoil and GG monogram find synergy to amplify two legacies. Conventionally formal pieces like leather heels, suede loafers, and silk scarves enter hybridized territory as well, as they are marked with casual codes. Similarly, retro aesthetics become intrinsically contemporary as they proclaim there are no rules when it comes to dressing up.

Reflecting a shared commitment to innovation, progress, sustainability goals and collective action, the collection features multiple pieces crafted with future-conscious material fabrications including polyester, cotton and viscose.

Hologenix® announces that its newest innovation has achieved two recognitions. In addition to being a Top Ten winner in the Fibers & Insulation Category of ISPO Textrends Fall/Winter 2023/24, pure white CELLIANT has been shortlisted in the Drapers Sustainable Fashion 2022 Awards. The company is sharing the spotlight with recognized brands such as H&M, Sweaty Betty and Timberland. According to Drapers, the leading authority on fashion retailing in the UK since 1887, which sponsors these awards annually, this year they received the most entries ever, making them very competitive.

To create pure white CELLIANT rPET fiber, Hologenix developed a strategic partnership with the Ireland-based Wellman International Limited, a fully owned subsidiary of Indorama Ventures. Indorama Ventures is investing $1.5 billion on sustainability initiatives, allowing them to recycle 50 billion PET bottles globally by 2025 to support the growth of the circular economy. Wellman International has been a pioneer of recycling technologies for almost 50 years, offering specialist solutions for the medical, hygiene, automotive, home care and apparel sectors.  

Pure white CELLIANT rPET fiber is sustainably manufactured, with a low-impact supply chain. It is achieved by embedding bioceramic materials, that are naturally derived and ethically sourced, into fibers, yarns and fabrics. Wellman International has converted 100% of pure white CELLIANT Polyester production into rPET. This conversion to rPET has been implemented across all CELLIANT product categories, replacing traditional polyester and dramatically enhancing CELLIANT’s sustainability initiatives.

Pure white CELLIANT is recognized as a Class 1 medical device in the European Union and is able to carry the CE mark. Like CELLIANT, pure white CELLIANT captures and converts body heat into infrared energy, powering bio-responsive textiles. This energy is reflected back to the body, resulting in increased local circulation and cellular oxygenation. These advantages have a variety of wellness benefits, including stronger performance, faster recovery and better sleep, as well as many functional properties such as thermoregulation, quick-dry properties and odor inhibition.  

Wellman International distributes pure white CELLIANT fibers across Europe, the Middle East, Africa, Asia and the USA.

• Hundreds of designers, brands, creators, e-com platforms, manufacturers, and virtual fashion pioneers expected to attend VIP events at Kornit’s headquarters, R&D and production centers, and in major venues of Tel Aviv     
• Kornit will unveil future technologies and solutions, including the revolutionary Kornit Apollo fully-digital mass production direct-to-garment (DTG) platform – considered a future game-changer for the mainstream mass production of fashion and apparel, a multi-billion-dollar market opportunity – constrained today by antiquated, analog, and polluting methods of production
• Mass production of textile, traditionally off-shored, is going through an accelerated shift to near-shore production, significantly shorter production runs, lean-to-no inventory risk, and unlimited creativity and flexibility for designers and creators – all possible with Kornit’s new solution for mass production
• Kornit will also unveil its Kornit Atlas MAX Poly – predicted to transform the multi-billion-dollar professional and recreational sports apparel and teamwear markets, suffering today from major limitations with mass customization of polyester

Kornit Digital Ltd. (NASDAQ: KRNT) (“Kornit”), a worldwide market leader in sustainable, on-demand digital fashionx and textile production, announced today the Company will present the convergence of design, technology, and sustainable fashion at Kornit Fashion Week Tel Aviv 2022, April 3rd – 6th. Rewriting the rules for fashion and textiles, the transformative event will unveil vibrant runway collections together with game-changing industry-first product and technology introductions that bring digital production to the mainstream.

The four-day event is attended by some of the top designers, retailers, brands, fulfillers, and ecommerce players, in addition to global investors and press – and will include exclusive VIP experiences demonstrating the confluence of the design, technology, and fashion worlds. Together, these three elements are central to Kornit’s 4.0 strategy, bringing sustainable, on-demand fashion to the mainstream with end-to-end workflow solutions.

Kornit Fashion Week Tel Aviv 2022

Kornit Fashion Week features an immersive runway showcase produced by worldwide fashion icon, producer, director, and entrepreneur Motty Reif. The week follows successful Kornit events in 2021 across Los Angeles, New York, Milan, and Tel Aviv – displaying the creative freedom associated with sustainable, on-demand fashion fulfillment. Attendees will experience runway events showcasing designer creativity across a broad array of collections. These fascinating collections were created in just a few weeks, unlike typical fashion and textile production processes that take over six months.

Industry-First Introductions

Looking behind the scenes at Kornit Fashion Week, attendees will witness Kornit’s disruptive mass production technology in action. Unveiled for the first time, the Kornit Apollo direct-to-garment (DTG) system addresses accelerated post-pandemic market trends for streamlined supply chains and production nearshoring. Demonstrated at an exclusive VIP event, Kornit Apollo features the Company’s proven MAX technology offering the highest retail quality combined with full automation control and integrated smart curing processes, utilizing functionality from Lichtenau, Germany-based Tesoma (Kornit’s recently announced acquisition). The solution is the most comprehensive digital, single-step end-to-end system for nearshore short-and-medium-runs mass production and offers optimal TCO and highest output per operator. The result far surpasses performance of screen printing and analog techniques. With early customer engagements in the second half of 2022, the system will be available mid-2023.

Physical and Virtual Worlds

Kornit enables customers to exchange supply chain headaches and materials waste for unsurpassed creativity and a frictionless pixel-to-parcel-to-doorstep production experience. Supported by the KornitX workflow solution, customers have access to a scalable and modular ecosystem for on-demand decorated apparel and textiles. Supporting diverse supply chain models, the infrastructure-agnostic system enables on-demand, automated production, end-to-end from initial order to package delivery.

• Innovation begins with creativity
• A pioneer of the manmade fiber industry

When the manmade fiber age began a century ago, a German company was responsible for the pioneering work involved. Barmag, established in 1922, was one of the world’s first companies to construct machines for the large-scale production of synthetic staple fibers. To this day, the leading manufacturer of manmade fiber spinning systems and texturing machines in Remscheid – a brand under the aegis of the Swiss Oerlikon Group since 2007 – has shaped technological progress in this sector; in future, with ever more innovations focusing on sustainability and digitalization.

Barmer Maschinenfabrik Aktiengesellschaft (Barmag) is founded in Barmen, located in the Bergische Land region, on March 27, 1922. The German and Dutch founders enter unchartered technological territory, one created as the result of a groundbreaking invention: in 1884, French chemist Count Hilaire Bernigaud de Chardonnet used nitrocellulose to produce the first so-called artificial silk, later known as rayon. The following decades see rapid development focusing on the search for synthetic textile fibers and their manufacturing technologies. As one of the first machine factories, Barmag battles its way through the eventful early years of the manmade fiber industry, the ‘Roaring Twenties’ and the Great Depression – and suffers the extensive destruction of its factories at the end of World War Two. Rebuilding is successful. With the unstoppable success story of purely synthetic plastic fibers such as polyamide, the company flourishes from the 1950s through to the 1970s, establishing sites in all international, for the textile industry at the time important, industrial regions and garnering prestige across the globe in the process. In the ups and downs of expansion, global competition and crises, Barmag reaches the very pinnacle of the market and becomes the preferred technological development partner for the manmade fiber industries in China, India and Turkey. The company has been a high-impact brand under the umbrella of the Oerlikon Group since 2007.

On the wings of innovation
Today, Oerlikon Barmag is a leading supplier of manmade fiber filament spinning systems and part of the Manmade Fibers Solutions business unit of the Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions Division. And our aspirations have not diminished: “The striving towards innovation and technological leadership has been, is and will always be part of our DNA”, emphasizes Georg Stausberg, CEO of Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions. In the past, this has been observable in such trailblazing innovations as the revolutionary WINGS generation of winders for POY in 2007 and WINGS for FDY in 2012. Currently, the focus of new and further developments is very much on digitalization and sustainability. Here, Oerlikon Barmag has – as one of the world’s first systems manufacturers – been implementing fully-networked smart factories for globally-leading polyester manufacturers since the end of the last decade. Within this context, digital solutions and automation are also helping to provide greater climate and environmental compatibility. This sustainability commitment is not only evidenced by the e-save label introduced for all products back in 2004: Oerlikon is endeavoring to also make all its sites carbon-neutral by 2030 and to acquire its energy exclusively from renewable sources. An ambitious target, whose achievement could be helped by the Oerlikon Barmag anniversary, states Georg Stausberg: “Innovation begins with creativity. And remembering the past provides plenty of motivation and inspiration for the future.”

Sitip confirms for the third year its partnership with SCOTT Racing Team in the production of the team uniform created in collaboration with ROICA™ EF of Asahi Kasei and Rosti.

The partnership was born in 2019 and celebrated during Ispo 2020, which returns for the third consecutive year to re-propose an exclusive and special uniform, designed to be extremely performing but also, and entirely, eco-sustainable.

Starting from the performance requirements of athletes, who need highly technical fabrics extremely breathable, comfortable on the skin, resistant and with perfect shape retention able to support them in competitions, Sitip has chosen the fabrics of its Native Sustainable Textiles line - technology which applies to fabrics produced with recycled yarns and chemicals with low environmental impact, implementing the GRS (Global Recycle Standard) standard, with Asahi Kasei’s premium ROICA™ EF stretch yarn.

This line includes NATIVE-BICIMANIA and NATIVE-PIRATA, two GRS-certified recycled polyester fabrics chosen for the production of the uniform shirt, enriched by Microsense Soft Performance technology - able to guarantee the product a delicate softness and maximum comfort on the skin.

This year the absolute novelty is represented by the shorts, for a complete uniform: made with the NATIVE-THUNDERBIKE POWER fabric, designed for high performance sports, in recycled polyamide and always with the ROICA™ EF yarn by Asahi Kasei.

• IVL commits to being an industry leader in sustainability under ‘Vision 2030’

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited (IVL), a global sustainable chemical producer, today reported a record FY2021 performance as the economic recovery drove demand across the company’s global footprint. 

Mr Aloke Lohia, Indorama Ventures Group CEO, said: “In 2021 we proved the resilience of our global footprint and our integrated portfolio across the polyester value chain. The past two years were an unprecedented period of disruption in which our business model’s robustness and our teams’ agility were tested. Having reset our business plan for the ‘new normal’ era, I have never been more confident in our model, our strategy, and our teams."

2021 Summary

In 2021, IVL delivered Core EBITDA of US$1,743 million (up 55% YoY) on production volumes of 14.72 MMT (up 7% YoY). Consolidated Revenue increased 38% YoY to US$14,629 million as consumer confidence rebounded and the company’s resilient model benefited from rising inflation, energy price hikes and supply chain shocks.

Macroeconomic tailwinds supported IVL’s performance, including government stimulus packages. In premium western markets, higher freight rates improved the company’s local import parity pricing advantage. In the fourth quarter, the introduction of China’s dual control policy widened polyester margins. 

IVL’s largest Combined PET segment posted a 39% increase in Core EBITDA to US$1,103 million in the context of strong demand and low inventories. The resetting of PET contracts in 2022 is expected to capture higher freight rates and the consequent beneficial impact on import parity. The segment is expected to enjoy improved margins in 2022.

Integrated Oxides & Derivatives (IOD) recorded a Core EBITDA of US$377 million, up 228% from a year earlier. With higher oil prices expected to continue into 2022, the segment will continue to benefit from shale gas economics, improving MEG spreads, and upside from Lake Charles (IVOL) ethylene cracker, which resumed operations in late 2021. The Oxiteno acquisition, expected to close in H1 2022, will bring complementary products, green energy innovation, and geographical diversification to the IOD segment.

Fibers segment delivered a 37% increase in Core EBITDA of US$268 million as volumes rose 11%. Margins widened due to tighter markets and a favorable product mix, with setbacks coming from energy and commodity price increases, while the ongoing semiconductor shortage impacted the Mobility vertical.

Mr D K Agarwal, CEO and CFO at Indorama Ventures, said: “The performance was a result of a number of important macroeconomic factors, such as heightened crude oil prices, supply disruptions, and resurgent consumer confidence as vaccinations were rolled out in the pandemic’s second full year. These factors led to improved margins and benefited us as a preferred regional supplier that can react quickly to fulfill our customer needs. Our transformation programs that we started three years ago are also delivering efficiency gains faster than planned. As the world emerges from the pandemic, our increased confidence in IVL’s resilient model sets a strong foundation for further growth through 2024.”

• The “new normal” by Südwolle: responsible, seasonless and high performance

The concept of seasonality in the F/W 2023/24 collection is increasingly vague, in favour of more functional categories in terms of performance, sustainability, innovative content and style.

Yarns are predominantly pure wool or blends, corresponding with the new concept of “dressing well” which is gaining ground among consumers – an individual style that promotes wellbeing at various times of the day, a fluid, personal idea of elegance, that fits daily activities with ease.

The new formal replaces the traditional suit with “smart casual” jackets and trousers -comfortable, and carefully cut, they feature quality materials that guarantee wearability as well as durability. Focus on these factors makes for more informed and less impulse buying.

The renewed interest in heritage is met with Südwolle's wool know-how and its basic essentials, updated to make them more sustainable by choosing certified fibres and chlorine-free anti-shrink treatments, for products with a longer lifespan thanks to domestic washing at low temperatures.

Sustainable innovation attentive to performance and durability goes hand in hand with the selection of earth-friendly recycled, recyclable and traceable materials blended with natural fibres.

Overview of the collection
The words inspiring the new collection are: sustainable, responsible, natural, recycled and high-performance.

A leading position goes to the OTW® line of weaving yarns made with Omega Twist® technology, developed and patented by Südwolle Group, which gives yarns enhanced performances in terms of reduced pilling, greater elasticity, strength and durability.

Espresso TEX Nm 48/2 (100% untreated wool,20.5μ) was created to value the authentic naturalness of wool. Made with undyed, untreated merino wool, it is a twisted yarn for weaving, ideal, for example, for flannel suits and jacket. It is available in 4 shades of brown obtained by mixing different percentages of untreated raw wool and undyed, naturally brown wool.
Eolo Nm 24/2 (100% wool 20.5 µ) is an example of circular production and reuse of recycled wool within the Karma project. Starting with in-house pre-and post-production waste, a partly carded, partly combed, product is created at Südwolle Group facilities where this type of process can be carried out.

Rhein GOTSNm 64/1 and Nm 64/2 (100% wool 19.5 µ) is the new pure woolyarn with GOTS –Global Organic Textile Standard certification, which certifies its organic provenance. The same traceable origin applies to Lerici GOTS X-COMPACT®Nm 60/1 (70% GOTS certified wool 19.5μ, 30% Schappe Mulberry silk), a glossy yarn with reduced pilling effect for improved anti-abrasion performance, obtained with X-COMPACT® spinning technology.

Performance paired with reduced energy consumption is the added value of SRP ClarkNm 60/2 (48% wool 23.5μ, 44% cationic polyester, 8% Donegal viscose), also available in a stretch version. The cationic polyester can be dyed blended with the wool, making double dying unnecessary and so saving on water and energy consumption. The addition of pre-dyed red, green or brown Donegal viscose to the blend creates a fluid look enhanced with slubbing and micro-nep effect.

Rosvic Nm 40/2 (98% wool 19.5μ, 2% Lycra®44 dtex) is a twisted yarn with Basolan treatment for comfort fabrics. It has a slightly textured surface with a contrasting or tone on tone micro mouliné pattern.

Key players among the circular knitting and hosiery yarns are Basak Nm 80/1(80% wool TEC. 20% polyamide 2.2 dtex), OTW® Barone GRS Nm 60/2(60% wool 23.5 µ TEC, 40% RENU™ recycled cationic polyester 2.2 dtex) and OTW®Concorde Nm 88/2(100% wool 19.3 µ TEC), available in the new colour cards.

International technology group ANDRITZ has received an order from the Swiss-Russian key converter Laboratoire Naturel and the ZetTechnology group of companies, based in Kaluga, Russia, to deliver their first complete neXline spunlace line. Start-up is scheduled for the second quarter of 2022.

The high-capacity line is designed to process various types of fibers, especially polyester/viscose and cotton blends, and is dedicated to the production of high-end hygiene and cosmetic wet wipes to serve private label clients. The ANDRITZ spunlace line with its CPC design (CPC: Card – Pulp – Card) will enable to process a multilayer spunlace fabric including wood pulp as a raw material. Such a configuration will allow Laboratoire Naturel and the ZetTechnology group of companies to produce fabrics from 30 to 60 gsm. In addition, the line configuration will enable the production of bio-wipes.

Laboratoire Naturel and the ZetTechnology group of companies have been pioneers in the converting industry and manufacturing of wipes in Russia since 1996. The two companies were the first manufacturer of wipes for the Russian hygiene market. The ANDRITZ line will address the local Russian market for wipes end-uses as well as more than 20 countries in Europe and Asia.