From the Sector

Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris opens its doors from 1 to 3 July at Paris Expo Porte de Versailles. More than a thousand exhibitors from the world's major sourcing countries will be offering inspirational sources for building collections for 2025-2026. This season's show will focus on suppliers of innovative products and solutions for high-performance and sustainable fashion.

Yarn in the spotlight
Taking us further upstream in the industry and for the first time at the Parisian trade shows, a pavilion featuring yarn producers will be found at the exhibition. Co-organised with Yarn Expo, a Shanghai show in the Messe Frankfurt galaxy, this dedicated pavilion will feature companies from China, India, Pakistan and Taiwan.

A Leather trends area at Leatherworld, partnerships at Avantex
As in previous summers, this season’s show will bring together all the different aspects of Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris. Leatherworld, the platform dedicated to leather sourcing, is announcing the return of a South African pavilion. This area will also host a Leather Trends area created and run by Italian publisher Edizioni AF, a specialist in the leather industry. Particular attention will be paid to the design processes and choice of materials used by Italian accessories and footwear manufacturers.

A number of new features are also expected in the Avantex innovations area: Partnerships with the IFA Paris fashion design school, the TCBL association and the TUV Rheinland certification body, which will showcase  solutions in sustainable fashion and textiles, and provide an opportunity to discuss these issues at expert round tables.

Furthermore, the fair will be showcasing Texpertise Econogy, the sustainable economy approach developed by the international Messe Frankfurt group to guide visitors in their sourcing choices. Following its launch in February, the upcoming event will continue to promote sustainability with a number of features and provide a platform for green pioneers.

North Carolina State University’s Wilson College of Textiles has been making inroads challenging the conventional pad finishing process and significantly reducing its environmental footprint in collaboration with Baldwin Technology Inc. Front and center in its finishing lab is Baldwin’s TexCoat G4™ digital finishing system.
 
For nearly 125 years, the Wilson College of Textiles has been a hub of innovation and learning, transforming students into experts in the world of textiles. As the textile industry grapples with sustainability challenges, the college has embraced new technologies and innovations to address the issue head-on.
 
At the forefront of this transformation is the Zeis Textiles Extension for Economic Development, an arm of Wilson College which serves the textile industry’s prototyping and pilot production needs in its five laboratories – spun yarn, knitting, weaving, dyeing and finishing, and physical testing. Collaborations with various textile companies have allowed the university to foster industry partnerships that bring forth groundbreaking ideas.
 
The partnership with Baldwin Technology marks a major milestone for the Raleigh, North Carolina-based college’s efforts to contribute to a more sustainable tomorrow.
 
To tackle the longstanding challenges of unsustainable fashion, NC State has taken the lead in demonstrating to students and industry the transition from the traditional pad finishing process to Baldwin’s TexCoat™ G4 system. It offers an innovative “non-contact” precision spray that significantly reduces water consumption, energy usage and chemical waste.
 
“Instead of needing to take the fabric, dip it into a bath to saturate it, squeeze the excess, dry and cure it, you can now precisely add the exact amount of finish you need on the fabric,” explained Rick Stanford, Baldwin's VP Global Business Development of Textiles. “The TexCoat™ G4 system will reduce the amount of pick-up that’s required to carry the chemical onto the fabric. This will also take a lot less energy to dry the fabric, increasing production speeds.”
 
The adoption of the TexCoat™ G4 system signals a new era for the college, allowing students to actively participate in shaping a sustainable future for the textiles industry. In the global effort to protect the planet and its resources, NC State's Wilson College of Textiles is at the forefront, preparing the next generation of professionals to be the leaders of the sustainable textile movement.

adidas have unveiled an innovation in the sport of wheelchair basketball. Born from extensive feedback and research with wheelchair athletes, the uniforms were developed by the adidas Innovation team in Portland in close collaboration with Adaptive Sports Northwest, a non-profit organization for adaptive athletics. The uniforms will be worn by the PNW Reign women’s wheelchair basketball team for the first time as they set out on a quest to win the NWBA Tournament on April 26-28, 2024.

Earlier in April, during the reveal of the adidas kits for the Paris 2024 Olympic and Paralympic Games, the sports brand announced that 86% of pieces of apparel worn on and off the field of play have been created using design principles that ensure they work for athletes with and without a disability alongside the development of adaptive training apparel.

The new wheelchair basketball jersey and shorts feature ergonomic advancements in pattern engineering, specifically tailored for seated positions to reduce bulk and increase comfort. Materials were selected based on detailed athlete feedback sessions and data analysis to unlock performance for seated athletes. The uniform features lightweight woven front panels for durability and full mesh back panels for breathability. Focus on the fit was paramount to deliver a uniform that felt light and comfortable.

Players of both genders have actively participated in rounds of feedback and ergometer testing sessions to measure maximum speed over pushes, providing the adidas team with invaluable insights into the mechanics of speed that will inform future research and development. In addition, the feedback was used to measure fit, performance, durability, and overall comfort to make the uniforms match the needed requirements. Finally, through the validation process, the PNW Reign basketball team confirmed that adapted patterns have been proven to reduce fabric bulk, decrease heat build-up and enhance confidence.

UK-based textile testing solutions provider James Heal has launched two new instruments in its tensile and compression testing range, marking 25 years of innovation since their first Titan universal testing machine was developed in 1999.

Having seen sustained growth in the market for personal protective equipment (PPE), particularly safety workwear, equipment and footwear, James Heal designed the Titan 25 to meet demand for quality testing products that require higher capacity tests. In addition, the company has experienced increasing demand in testing solutions for wider sporting, industrial and transportation applications, which also influenced the decision to develop higher capacity test instrumentation.

The new Titan 25 is the highest capacity universal testing machine to join the range capable of tests up to 25kN, while the 10kN Titan 10 has been newly refined. The new instruments offer efficiencies through automation, quick change connections for tooling with compatibility across the range, upgraded software, plus enhanced safety features.

These dual column instruments enable testing on larger specimens across a wide range of tensile and compression tests. Load cells from 100N to 25kN allow testing to as low as 2N giving laboratories maximum flexibility and return for their investment.

Simple to use, the new Titan testers have over 750 pre-loaded standard procedures in the TestWise software, with the option for users to customise and save their own standards. The software automatically sets parameters for each selected test, reducing set up time and eliminating user error.

Archroma and Cotton Incorporated, a research and promotion company for cotton, have renewed their eight-year collaboration to help accelerate the shift to more sustainable circular economy.

The two organizations began working together in 2016 when Cotton Incorporated approached Archroma with the goal of developing a dyestuff from the byproducts of cotton production.

The U.S., the world’s third-largest cotton producer and largest exporter, produces sustainable cotton fiber for the textile and apparel industry as well as cottonseed for food and animal feed. Cotton farming and processing also generate byproducts, such as burs, stems and leaves, that are used to create insulation, packaging, erosion control products, and more. Cotton Incorporated recognized the potential to use these natural byproducts to produce dyes.

Drawing on a century-long heritage of sulfur dye innovation, the Archroma research team was able to apply its patented EarthColors® technology to create DIRESUL® Earth-Cotton using cotton by products from the U.S. supply chain. An alternative to the usual oil-based dyes, Earth-Cotton allows brands to offer textile products in warm natural shades, using cotton to create both fabric and dye.

Eastman, a specialty materials company and producer of Naia™ cellulosic fibers, has formed a collaboration with Debrand, a logistics company specializing in finding sustainable solutions to apparel waste.

Teaming up with Debrand for collection of the waste, Eastman is using its molecular recycling technology to recycle 5,000 pounds of pre- and post-consumer apparel waste. The process breaks down apparel waste to its molecular building blocks and uses the certified recycled material to create Naia™ Renew fibers — circular fibers made from 60% sustainably sourced wood pulp and 40% recycled waste material via Global Recycled Standard-certified mass balance.

Eastman and Debrand are showcasing the transformative potential of molecular recycling technology to address the textile waste crisis. By providing more circular solutions for apparel waste, this partnership sets a new standard for sustainable practices in the fashion industry. Prior to its collaboration with Eastman, Debrand secured a strategic investment from Waste Management, a provider of comprehensive waste management in North America, to deliver circular solutions across the U.S. and Canada.

Eastman continues to partner with strategic brands and organizations to drive innovation and enhance the infrastructure for a circular economy in the textiles industry. Recently, Eastman teamed up with Patagonia to recycle 8,000 pounds of its unusable apparel.

HeiQ introduces an anti-odor product addition to its HeiQ Fresh range to eliminate persistent malodor on feather and down products. Biobased HeiQ Fresh for Feather & Down utilizes a combination of pre- and probiotics (synbiotics) which helps to break up the smelly components. This innovation will be showcased at the Techtextil 2024 Swiss Pavilion.

HeiQ Fresh for Feather & Down is a 100% biobased technology engineered to combat the persistent malodor often associated with feather jackets, duvets, and pillows. Developed to address a common challenge faced by manufacturers and consumers alike, this solution represents a leap forward in the field of odor management by removing a significant objection to purchase.

The key issue lies in the natural oil secretion of the duck or goose to provide its natural waterproofing. While essential, this oil becomes the source of the unwanted odors that persist despite conventional cleaning methods. HeiQ Fresh for Feather & Down tackles this problem head-on by harnessing the power of synbiotics (pre- and probiotics).

Through an advanced process, the technology applied during the production stage effectively removes bacterial nutrients present in the feathers and down, thereby preventing the formation of persistent and unpleasant odors. Extensive testing has demonstrated a significant reduction in malodor even after prolonged use, validating the efficacy of this solution. The human sensory testing method according to ISO 17299-1 is the recommended test method.

CARBIOS was awarded 1st prize in the "So French So Innovative" Award organized by Business France, the Hong Kong Committee of French Foreign Trade Advisors (CCEF), La French Tech and its partners at InnoEX 2024 (taking place in Hong Kong from 13 to 16 April). The award recognizes French innovation to promote and support French Tech in the Asia-Pacific region. The final awards ceremony was held on the French pavilion in the presence of members of the Hong Kong Government and Christile Drulhe, Consul General of France in Hong Kong.

Emmanuel Ladent, CEO of CARBIOS: "Asia-Pacific is a key market for our PET biorecycling solution, and the 'So French So Innovative' Award is a recognition that supports CARBIOS’ prospection and commercial deployment in the region. CARBIOS' technology is generating a lot of interest, leading to promising discussions and the exploration of commercial agreements to support the sustainability commitments and international operations of current and future partners."

CARBIOS' global presence
In a dynamic global PET market, where the share of recycled PET will increase, CARBIOS' ambition is to become a leading r-PET player by 2035. CARBIOS has extended its international reach to boost its commercial deployment worldwide. Teams in place in key markets are dedicated to identifying business opportunities and establishing commercial partnerships for PET biorecycling technology, with first agreements expected in 2024. To date, CARBIOS is represented in three regions: Europe, North America (including Canada) and Asia (China, Japan, Korea, Singapore, Taiwan, and soon India).

Archroma will introduce its new Super Systems+ concept and highlight product innovations at Techtextil 2024, being held in Frankfurt, Germany from April 23 to 26.

A highlight of Archroma’s participation in Techtextil, Super Systems+ are powerful end-to-end systems that combine fiber-specific processing solutions and intelligent effects. The Super Systems+ suite encompasses wet processing solutions that deliver measurable environmental impact from sizing to finishing; durable colors and functional effects that add value and longevity to the end product; and cleaner chemistries that eliminate harmful or regulated substances.

For textile partners to the automotive industry, Archroma is introducing DOROSPERS® KHF, a new range of high-lightfast disperse dyes that provide optimum build up on polyester microfiber, including artificial suede for car interiors.

For nonwoven applications in fields such as healthcare, hygiene and filtration, Archroma recommends APPRETAN® FFX6750, a new addition to its range of high-performance zero-formaldehyde acrylic copolymers, and APPRETAN® FFX1540.

APPRETAN® FFX1540 is a new APEO free and formaldehyde free self-crosslinking polymer, medium soft with very low tackiness, and strongly hydrophobic, developed for the chemical bonding of nonwovens and for the coating of technical textiles, where low water absorption and high-water tightness are required, combined with high durability in severe environment.

For workwear and uniforms that protect people under adverse conditions, Archroma solutions include HELIZARIN® ULTRA-FAST, for printing with pigment dispersions and metallic pigments, and the new ALBAFIX® ECO Plus wet fastness improver. Archroma’s PFC-free PHOBOTEX® R-ACE durable water repellent delivers excellent water repellence while preserving fabric quality and ensuring sustainability. Archroma has also expanded the revolutionary AVITERA® SE GENERATION NEXT range of resource-saving dyes with new colors.

Further solutions for active wear and workwear include the newly launched bio-based PHOBOTEX® NTR-50 durable water repellent product, which is PFAS free, formaldehyde free and crosslinker free, as well NYLOFIXAN® HFS, a new fixing agent for polyamide and blends that is fully compliant with the latest restrictions on bisphenol compounds.

Archroma is also launching ARKOPHOB® NTR-40 at Techtextil 2024. The company’s first crosslinker with an improved sustainability profile, its monomers are partially derived from renewably sourced, plant-based raw materials. Another new innovation is biocide-free OX20, an odor-neutralizing technology launched by Archroma in partnership with SANITIZED AG.

For home textiles, mills and brands can select ARKOFIX® NZW formaldehyde-free* resin for high whiteness and extraordinary product stability, with no yellowing during storage at elevated temperatures, even over a prolonged period of time. For a super-soft handle, the SILIGEN® EH1 is a vegan silicone macro-emulsion softener with 35% plant-based active content.

Kornit Digital LTD. will display its digital fabric and integrated workflow portfolio at Texprocess 2024, being held April 23-26.

Kornit Digital will feature a view into the end-to-end, fabric manufacturing ecosystem – allowing for production of any fabric and any design for any purpose. The centerpiece is Kornit Presto MAX, transforming the digital world of fabric printing with an ability to print on any fabric type – from cotton and polyester to denim and leather. Built on the promise of sustainability, Presto MAX reduces both water usage and waste. The system is the world’s first offering to print white ink on colored fabrics alongside neon to extend the color gamut by as much as 30 percent. Kornit’s new Vivido inks additionally offers dark black pigments.

Additionally featured is the KornitX Global Fulfillment Network, a solution designed to optimize operational efficiency, eliminate supply chain bottlenecks, and ensure products are readily available to meet customer demands. The solution connects brands, retailers, and digital platforms to a high-quality production network – providing rapid replenishment and trend adaptability for direct-to-fabric production. Pixel-to-parcel monitoring and control fully integrates the end-to-end production workflow for a seamless experience. The solution based on Kornit’s MAX technology enables brands to maximize margins, boost profitability, and pave the way for a sustainable future in the digital on-demand fashion and textile industry.

Beyond technology demonstrations, Kornit will additionally highlight how MAX technology serves as a vibrant partner platform to drive possibilities across the entire fabric printing and processing chain. Key partners highlighted include:

• Colortex: Providing fashionable, custom textiles for the footwear industry.
• ZwissTex: Offering quality, sustainable textile solutions for the automotive and clothing sectors.
• Print Logistic: Delivering a full range of services - from printing to worldwide drop-shipping for smooth e-commerce integration.
• CGS: Driving global performance through business applications, enterprise learning and outsourcing services.
• FastSwen: Leveraging Moving Cavity Technology (MCT) to transform textile handling and production efficiency.
• Premier Digital Textiles: Serving as the prime supplier of textiles with extensive warehousing across the US and UK.
• Greentex: Providing highly sustainable, innovative, and customizable fabrics for advanced textile printing.