From the Sector

• Südwesttextil begrüßt die Veröffentlichung eines Referentenentwurfs zur vorzeitigen Aufhebung der SARS-CoV-2-Arbeitsschutzverordnung.

Bundesarbeitsminister Hubertus Heil hat angekündigt, die Corona-Arbeitsschutzverordnung, die bis zum 7. April 2023 laufen sollte, bereits zum 2. Februar 2023 auslaufen zu lassen. Ein entsprechender Referentenentwurf liegt vor.

Die Entscheidung begründet das Bundesministerium für Arbeit und Soziales (BMAS) mit der stetigen Abnahme der Häufigkeit und Schwere von Infektionen mit SARS-CoV-2, den allgemein günstigen Prognosen hinsichtlich des mittel- und langfristigen Infektionsgeschehens sowie mit der zunehmenden Immunität in der Bevölkerung und dem Ausbleiben neuer Varianten.

Vor dem Hintergrund, dass bereits seit Mitte November Quarantäne und Absonderung in Baden-Württemberg und vielen anderen Bundesländern an den endemischen Charakter des Virus angepasst worden sind, begrüßt der Arbeitgeberverband der südwestdeutschen Textil- und Bekleidungsindustrie das Vorhaben, die Corona-ArbSchV aufzuheben. Hauptgeschäftsführerin Edina Brenner erklärt: „Wir haben als Wirtschaft das Hochlaufen des pandemischen Schutzes mitgetragen und selbstverständlich Verantwortung übernommen. Mit dem Auslaufen vieler Corona-Beschränkungen muss die Arbeitsschutzverordnung aber analog angepasst werden. Die Ankündigung von Bundesminister Heil ist daher überfällig – der Virus ist leider längst Bestandteil unseres Alltags. Nach der Aufhebung der SARS-CoV-2-Arbeitsschutzverordnung sind die angekündigten unverbindlichen und praxisgerechten Empfehlungen des BMAS für zukünftige Infektionsausbrüche ausreichend und angemessen.“

Kornit Digital LTD. (NASDAQ: KRNT) ("Kornit" or the "Company"), a market leader in sustainable, on-demand digital fashion and textile production technologies, announced its partnership with VORN – The Berlin Fashion Hub, Zalando, and Unity – creating an "alliance of the willing" to transform the industry via "phygital" fashion with a circular approach.

Nine designers were challenged to create fashion capsules in eight weeks utilizing the latest technology innovations from the three alliance partners – combining digital product creation, web3-based design, digital printing, immersive circular design, 3D rendering and avatar development. All collections are on display exclusively at Berlin Fashion Week from Wednesday, January 18 to Friday, January 20 at Bikini Berlin.
 
The challenge follows standing room only Kornit Fashion Week events across the globe, displaying how on-demand, digital production creates a fashion world of nearly endless creativity. Hosted at the Impact Hub Berlin, the VORN Academy Program offered creators access to a holistic technology toolset - including the advanced Kornit Presto MAX single-step solution for direct-to-fabric sustainable printing. Some of the prominent designers taking part include costume and fashion designer Alexis Mersmann, Judith Bondy, AR and NFT artist Ann-Britt Dittmar, Berlin-based director Tanja Bombach, Nina Jurcic, Olga Boncheva, digital artist, and fashion designer Schirin Negahbani, Johann Erhardt, and Israeli designer Idan Yoav.
 
"This collaboration across four industry leaders is so unique because the result is a sum so much greater than each of its individual parts. It's a true 'alliance of the willing' that opens doors to 'phygital' collections built at the intersection of digital fashion, 3D design, and on-demand production," said Omer Kulka, Chief Innovation Officer at Kornit Digital. "We're honored to team with VORN – The Berlin Fashion Hub, Zalando, and Unity during Berlin Fashion Week to demonstrate what's possible as the physical and virtual fashion worlds come together."
 
"When we launched the Berlin Fashion Hub, our intent was to create a B2B environment to spark unmatched fashion and sustainability innovations. As Berlin is one of the world's most important fashion and textile centers, there is no better place to demonstrate economically succesful circularity in the fashion industry," said Professor Marte Hentschel, Co-Founder at VORN – The Berlin Fashion Hub. "Together, we're changing fashion to drive sustainability and harness the creative power of both the physical and virtual. We're proud of what's been accomplished in conjunction with an incredible group of designers, creators, and partners."

SHIMA SEIKI ITALIA S.p.A., Italian subsidiary of leading Japanese computerized knitting solutions provider SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD., will exhibit at the 92nd edition of the Pitti Immagine Filati exhibition in Florence, Italy. Products exhibited will include the new SWG-XR®154 and N.SVR®183 computerized flat knitting machines as well as APEXFiz® design software.

As pioneer of seam-free WHOLEGARMENT® knitting, SHIMA SEIKI has been setting the standard almost exclusively with nearly 30 years of experience in complete garment technology. Now that benchmark has been raised once again with its new SWG-XR® flagship WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine. SWG-XR® features 4 needle beds for all-needle knitting of high quality WHOLEGARMENT® products using the company's original SlideNeedle®. SWG-XR® features a renewed sinker system and a compact, light-weight carriage featuring 4 systems as well as auto yarn carriers. All contribute to increased productivity of more than 25% over the previous MACH2®XS machine, as well as increased product range using a wider variety of yarn for supporting knits for all seasons, and higher quality for knitting beautiful fabrics and silhouettes; even items that were impossible to knit with the MACH2® series. SWG-XR® sets new standards for the next generation of waste-free, sustainable WHOLEGARMENT® knitting.

A new proposal in WHOLEGARMENT® knitting will also be introduced in the form of the N.SVR®183 WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine. SHIMA SEIKI's global standard in shaped knitting, the N.SVR® series now features a model for producing WHOLEGARMENT® knitwear using every other needle in ultrafine gauge. N.SVR®183 is equipped with the R2CARRIAGE® system and a compact, lightweight carriage for even higher productivity. Shown in 21G at Pitti Filati 92, N.SVR®183 is the ideal machine for flexible, entry-level WHOLEGARMENT® production, with the versatility to respond to fluctuating market demand.

APEXFiz® subscription-based design software supports the creative side of fashion from planning and design to colorway evaluation, realistic fabric simulation and 3D virtual sampling. Virtual samples are a digitized version of sample making that are accurate enough to be used effectively as prototypes, replacing physical sampling and consequently reducing time, cost and material that otherwise go to waste. APEXFiz® thereby helps to realize sustainability and digitally transform the fashion supply chain.

The Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions GmbH announces the programme for the upcoming editions of MUNICH FABRIC START (24 to 26 January 2023) and BLUEZONE & KEYHOUSE (24 and 25 January 2023).
From 24 to 26 January 2023, visitors can expect a range of the latest trends, fabric, accessories and denim highlights from around 900 international exhibitors, an event programme with expert panels, keynotes and trend lectures, as well as numerous networking opportunities.

Economic Environment
Conflicts, inflation, recession, energy crisis, massive inequality, climate change - how companies can position themselves securely in a volatile market environment - this is deciphered by trend analyst David Shah in his key note "Self-Empowerment" and numerous industry experts, futurologists and leading fashion editors in the lecture series "The Status Quo of Fashion" by strategy and communication consultants Alex Vogt and Jana Kern.

Next to David Shah (View-Publications), the panel will include Siems Luckwaldt (CAPITAL and BUSINESS PUNK, RTL Germany), Shamin Vogel (WeAr Global Magazine), Ben Hanson (The Interline), Maria Cristina Pavarini (The SPIN OFF) and Carl Tillessen (DMI)

Digital Era
From digital colour apps, digital twins and virtual models to 3D simulation and virtual dressing rooms - the world of digital fashion will not only be discussed in numerous lectures in Munich, but also brought to life in the new Assyst Experience. Whether it's Carola Seybold, Head of Global Key Accounts at Pantone, Jan Hilger from Roland Berger, Arndt Johannes from Verce, Dr. Stefan Hauswiesner, CEO of Reactive Reality or the experts of the panel "Textilfabrik X.0 - New Marketing Buzz Words or One Step Ahead": everyone will be looking at virtual fashion from a different angle and providing insights into the latest state of the art. In her trend presentation "The weird & wonderful world of fashion cores" at BLUEZONE, Angela Velasquez (Rivet) sheds light on how viral TikTok trends are reshaping denim merchandising.

Sustainable Future
Digitisation and sustainability - the third major theme of the event programme - could not be more closely intertwined. Lisa Lang, Director of Policy & EU Affairs Orchestrator of EIT Climate KIC in an interview with Muchaneta ten Napel (Shape Innovate) kicks things off about the importance of a green transformation for the industry. Other topics in focus: Liv Simpliciano from Fashion Revolution gives an overview of where the world's biggest fashion brands and retailers stand in terms of transparency. Tricia Carey from Renewcell, David Shah (View-Publications), Lien van der Schueren and Guy Buyle (CISUTAC & HEREWEAR), Mateusz Wielopolski (Circulix) and Mario Malzacher (Circular.Fashion) critically discuss whether the circular economy is really the solution for everything or just a placebo. Circular ecosystems are also presented by Franziska von Becker from Hachmeister & Partner.

The race of the new sustainable materials of the future will be opened by Kirsi Terho from Infinited Fiber, Kuben Edwards from Onezero8, Marianne Uddman from Trustrace and Simon Angel, Sustainable Innovations Curator of MUNICH FABRIC START in a panel discussion with Muchaneta ten Napel (Shape Innovate). New products for a sustainable future in the denim industry will be discussed at BLUEZONE.
Another highlight: In cooperation with the Transformers Foundation, an expert panel will also be held at BLUEZONE on both days of the trade show.

Trends Spring.Summer 2024
Gerd Müller-Thomkins, Carl Tillessen and Niels Holger Wien from the Deutsches Mode Institut (DMI) see a "vibe shift" - a turning point. They will analyse what this means for fashion in their trend presentation on Wednesday. The Women's Fashion Trends SS 24 with the must haves of the season will be analysed by Karin Schmitz from the Trend Forecast Institute Peclers Paris - from the glamorous appearance in everyday life, to the play with gender identity, to simplicity combined with functionality and mobility.

The international fashion sourcing platform Source Fashion, taking place from 12th – 14th February at Olympia London, has announced a compelling line-up of country pavilions and over 150 audited, quality manufacturers from around the world including Peru, India, China, Pakistan, Italy, Spain, Greece, North Macedonia,  the UAE, Madagascar, Jordan, Uzbekistan, Turkey, the UK and many more who will join the inaugural show, which runs parallel to Pure London.

Bringing a textile pavilion to the UK for the first time, the Peru Pavilion will showcase six manufacturers specialising in high-quality alpaca wool from the raw material right through to garment production, as well as cotton and other natural mixtures.

The main Indian Pavilion at this year’s Source Fashion, in collaboration with the Wool and Woollens Export Promotion Council, will showcase 20 established garment and textile exporters specialising in wool, woollen and acrylic fibres. The exhibitors will be showing full garments including men’s, women’s and kidswear as well as a selection of fabrics and raw materials. These exhibitors are regular export partners to the UK retail industry and already work with some big retailers in white label production.

The China Pavilion will present a selection of high-quality Chinese manufacturers ranging from full garment manufacturing through to raw materials, fabrics, cashmere and components.

Other producers and manufacturers attending Source Fashion from across Europe and the UK include:

• Mivania - an Italian knitwear manufacturer producing garments in 100% cashmere and cashmere blends.
• SATCoL (Salvation Army Trading Company) - a charity-owned textiles collector in the UK, actively working with retailers to reduce their carbon footprints.
• Kusilas - a Spanish company monitoring all the stages of the production process.
• Prime Casual - based in Leicester, UK, they specialise in the design and manufacture of ladies clothing from fast fashion, wholesale to bespoke tailoring.
• Athos Pallas - a fashion and textile agency located in Thessaloniki, Greece.

• adidas unveils its SS23 Melbourne Tennis Collection – an apparel range fit for performance
• Inspired by plants and florals, the collection features bold prints, vibrant colorways and a moiré effect textile
• The adidas SS23 Melbourne Tennis Collection will be available from Jan 13 2023

adidas launches its new SS23 Melbourne Tennis Collection, a range of performance apparel featuring striking colorful prints, inspired by plant life and nature. Select pieces feature a contrast-color mesh layering that when in motion creates a moiré effect and helps to mask the player’s movements and positioning on court.

With the help of innovation, adidas is seeing possibilities in turning towards new resources. For these products adidas turned to a greenhouse gas technology. It uses captured industrial emissions as a new material feedstock. CO₂ is fermented into ethanol which constitutes 30% by weight of a polyester yarn. adidas knitted this yarn into various products and now this carbon-based ethanol makes up a minimum of 15% by weight of these garments.

In addition, the collection also utilizes HEAT.RDY and Aeroready technologies. HEAT.RDY technology is designed to maximize airflow and optimize sweat distribution, while AEROREADY is powered by moisture-wicking fabric that absorbs sweat quickly for a dry feeling, helping players to move freely and comfortably on court.

The SS23 Melbourne Tennis Collection will be premiered on court by adidas athletes, including Stefanos Tsitsipas, Felix Auger Aliassime, Garbiñe Muguruza, Qiang Wang and Maria Sakkari.

The SS23 Melbourne Tennis Collection will be available from Jan 13.

• Digital display experience platform, Raydiant, partners with Zyler to offer virtual try-on to fashion retailers in-store.

Digital display experience platform, Raydiant, is now offering an exciting new virtual try-on solution to their fashion retail customers. Virtual try-on is brought to stores by Zyler, fashion technology that allows customers to see themselves in any outfit without having to physically try them on.

This means that retail spaces can be transformed, maximizing space and making use of the latest innovations in fashion. When customers see themselves in items before purchase, they are more excited about the products, their confidence is boosted, and the brand becomes more inclusive. Customers shop and buy more, and are less likely to return the products they purchase. Raydiant presents this new virtual try-on offering in combination with their digital signage solutions.

California born and bred, Tillys is one of fashion’s leading specialty casualwear retailers. And now, thanks to its collaboration with Recover™ , their premium denim brand RSQ, it is set to become a leader of sustainable fashion.

The three brands – Tillys, Recover™ and RSQ – have come together to create a sustainable capsule collection. The new collection includes classic-inspired denim, a tee, and an on-trend chore jacket, all of which contain a minimum of 20% of Recover’s low-impact recycled cotton fiber. To shop the exclusive Recover™ pieces in the RSQ collection, go to tillys.com or visit one of Tillys stores across 33 states.

To bring this collaboration to life, textile waste has been salvaged that would otherwise end up in a landfill to create high-quality recycled fiber that Tillys used to produce its premium-quality RSQ collection. Using recycled fiber significantly reduces the carbon and water footprint compared to apparel made with virgin fiber. This collaboration models how post-industrial textile waste can be integrated back into the system creating a more sustainable production model.

“We are delighted to celebrate this new partnership with Tillys, helping to reduce the environmental impacts created by the fashion industry and pave the way towards a more sustainable future.”
– Alfredo Ferre, CEO Recover™

2020 und 2021 lief es auch Corona bedingt richtig gut für die Outdoor-Branche. Selbst die Nachfrageberuhigung im laufenden Jahr, die nach aktueller Einschätzung des Forschungsinstituts Marketmedia24 zu einem Minus von 1,2 Prozent führen könnte, stehen nicht für einen Absturz. Denn die Umsätze liegen dann immer noch um 11,4 Prozent über denen des Vor-Corona-Jahres 2019. Nicht allein diese Tatsache lässt aufhorchen: In den ersten zehn Monaten dieses Jahres stieg der Umsatz mit nachhaltigen Outdoor-Textilien und -Schuhen gegenüber Vorjahr allein auf den Portalen der Platform Group, Wiesbaden, um 24,4 Prozent. Während gleichzeitig die durchschnittlichen Ausgaben für Outdoor-Textilien und -Schuhe mit einem Rückgang von 2,1 Prozent in 2022 das sich abschwächende Kaufverhalten spiegeln. Die generelle Kaufzurückhaltung der Deutschen bekommen derzeit alle Outdoor-Händler zu spüren. Selbst der Online-Handel wird das laufende Jahr mit einem leichten Minus bilanzieren, so die aktuelle Vorausschau der Kölner Marktforscher.

Sport unter freiem Himmel wie Trekking, Joggen, Walken und Biken erlebte in den beiden Corona-Jahren 2020 und 2021 großen Zulauf – insbesondere als Freizeit- und Reiseersatz für alles das, was die Pandemie unmöglich machte. Und man deckte sich passend mit Outdoor-Bekleidung, -Schuhen und Ausrüstungen ein und legte dabei immer mehr Wert auf nachhaltige Ware. Ein Trend, der die Industrie zunehmend veranlasst, den Anteil an recycelten Materialien auszubauen.
Carina Dietrich, verantwortlich bei Sympatex für Brand Communication Strategy und Business Development: „Besonders im Textilbereich sehen wir über alle Sportarten ein starkes und immer weiter steigendes Interesse hinsichtlich eines nachhaltigen Konsumverhaltens und das Erreichen einer Kreislaufwirtschaft.“
Gleichzeitig sorgen allerdings die unterschiedlichsten Informationen, der Label Dschungel sowie das tatsächlich existierende Greenwashing für Unsicherheit im Markt. Zudem tragen die aktuellen Krisen zur Verunsicherung der Kunden bei. Jürgen Hanke, Vertriebsleiter bei der Platform-Group, prognostiziert, dass sich unter dem Eindruck steigender Energiepreise erst zeigen muss, welchen Wert Kunden und Kundeninnen auf nachhaltige Produkte legen oder ob sie doch wieder mehr preisbewusstere Alternativen kaufen. Zumindest im Oktober 2022 sank der Umsatz mit nachhaltigen Outdoor-Textilien und -Schuhen auf den Portalen der Platform Group um 50 Prozent, während hier Outdoor insgesamt gleichzeitig „nur“ um 27,4 Prozent nachgab. Allerdings weist der Umsatztrend in den Monaten Januar, Juni und September klar daraufhin, dass Nachhaltigkeit ein Nachfragefaktor bleibt.

Auch weil die Preisfrage überholt ist (zumal es jetzt auch immer mehr Secondhand-Angebote im Handel gibt), ist Stefan Brunner, Director Sports beim iscm-institute und Experte im Sport-Team von Marketmedia24, überzeugt. Seiner Meinung nach kann es sich kein Stakeholder der Branche – sei es Industrie oder Handel – erlauben, die Nachhaltigkeit zu ignorieren. Vielmehr ist „die Sportartikelbranche gut beraten, ihre Führungsposition rund um dieses Thema auszubauen und damit auf den Trend nach mehr qualitativem Konsum einzuzahlen.“ Denn Nachhaltigkeit wird zweifelsohne zum neuen Statussymbol als Ausdruck einer Haltung. Schützenhilfe kommt da auch von der Anfang 2022 vorgestellten nachhaltigen Textilstrategie der Europäischen Kommission. Danach wird der Textilsektor die erste Branche sein, die vollständig zu einer Kreislaufwirtschaft übergeht: Bis 2030 sollen Textilprodukte, die in der EU in Verkehr gebracht werden, langlebiger, wiederverwendbarer, reparierbarer, recycelbar und energieeffizienter sein.

The second edition of The Modern Artisan initiative has been supported by C.L.A.S.S. with its strategic sourcing, mentoring and presence during the official launch happened at the beginning of November at the Dumfries House, part of The Prince's Foundation. Two days to introduce a capsule that reflects the initiative’s commitment to advance sustainability in luxury fashion, preserve heritage textile skills and creates a new culture where respect, beauty and innovation are blended together. They also demonstrate the shared ambition of YOOX NET-A-PORTER and The Prince’s Foundation to preserve the planet for future generations. The Modern Artisan aims to position artisanship as a viable and attractive career path for upcoming generations, equipping them with the skills to help shape a more circular industry.

The 10-month paid programme supports eight British and Italian graduates through the end-to-end process of designing, handcrafting, and bringing a more sustainable luxury collection to a global market. During the programme, they were given the opportunity to showcase their work to His Majesty, then The Prince of Wales, at Dumfries House.

The 13-piece capsule marks the culmination of the second edition of The Modern Artisan, YOOX NET-A-PORTER’s and The Prince’s Foundation’s pioneering flagship training programme, which commenced in 2019. Building on the success of 2020’s first collection launch, this year’s YOOX NET-A-PORTER for The Prince’s Foundation capsule achieves a number of new milestones in YOOX NET-A-PORTER’s Infinity sustainability journey. It is the first collection to align 100% with the Infinity Product Guide, its sustainability and circularity design guidelines, and its first ever carbon neutral collection.

The design is inspired by Highgrove Gardens, run by The Prince's Foundation and renowned for sustainable and organic approaches to agriculture and horticulture. The Artisans were supported by industry experts from YOOX NET-A-PORTER, The Prince’s Foundation, and several mentoring designer brands, including Gabriela Hearst, Nanushka and Stella Jean among others.