From the Sector

Hologenix has announced that its flagship product CELLIANT® infrared (IR) technology, a natural blend of IR-generating bioceramic minerals, is now more widely available from the company as a printed coating, expanding the uses of the technology and increasing the number of prospective partners. The innovation has already been named a Selection in the Fibers & Insulations Category of the ISPO Textrends Awards just last month.

Traditionally, CELLIANT has been embedded directly into fibers and yarns. However, for its print applications, CELLIANT fine mineral powder can be easily added directly onto the surface of all different fabric types. The company is particularly energized about how this expands the array of sustainable offerings that CELLIANT can be incorporated into, and is looking forward to partnering with brands to print CELLIANT on their ecofriendly fabrics. CELLIANT Print may be a cost-effective alternative to in-yarn solutions and allows for a more efficient supply chain.

fabrics or to a new fabric to create a variety of different product applications. For brands who are seeking a smaller pattern roller for apparel, orthopedic products or other close-to-skin projects, CELLIANT Print can accommodate this. There is also a larger pattern roller for bedding and larger-scale applications. As long as the print covers 80% of the fabric’s surface, the design possibilities for the print itself are virtually endless. CELLIANT Print has undergone mechanical testing for wash tests and can be confirmed to last the useful life of the product, for 50+ washes.

By applying CELLIANT Print directly onto the fabric, brand partners are able to use CELLIANT with a higher loading of bioceramic minerals than what would otherwise be possible with an in-yarn solution. This makes it ideal for recovery and performance purposes. In fact, an example of a CELLIANT Print application on kinesiology tape, KT Tape® PRO Oxygen™ was launched in April to great success.

Vietnam is the subject of increasing investment across an array of industries, with its textile sector going from strength to strength in a short space of time. To give key players from across the textile spectrum an opportunity to make their presence felt in this market, the Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) will make its debut from 28 February – 1 March 2024. Taking place at the Saigon Exhibition and Convention Center (SECC), the new fair will cover three main product sectors, namely apparel fabrics, yarns and fibres, and garments; home textiles; as well as technical textiles and nonwovens, textile processing, and printing technology.

In line with the industry’s anticipation, the country was identified as the ideal location for ASEAN’s new comprehensive textile platform for several key reasons. Vietnam’s pro-business policies, strategic geographical location, abundant labour force, and favourable trade agreements have contributed to its rise as a global textile manufacturing hub. Agreements such as the Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP); the Indo-Pacific Economic Framework for Prosperity (IPEF); and 15 free trade agreements (FTAs) covering over 60 countries and regions, will further enable participants from across the value chain to conduct cross-border business after connecting at next year’s show. In addition, several key travel initiatives that serve international players have been implemented, including the country’s APEC Business Travel Card programme^[1], availability of e-visas to all nationalities, and visa-free travel for select countries^[2].  

Exhibitors from multiple textile sub-sectors converge in February
In Vietnam’s home textile segment, rising urbanisation, emerging young consumers, and higher disposable incomes are interrelated factors driving growth^[3]. Globally, three of the top trends include recycling; utilising green fibres; and the increasing use of technical fabrics for enhanced comfort and health. At the fair, confirmed home textiles exhibitors include Hanyang Eco Tex, Hohmann GmbH, Phuong Nam Feather, and SIGMA, set to showcase their most up-to-date products, covering bedding, upholstery fabrics, curtain, and sun protection.
 
Utilised for automobiles, civil aviation, construction, health care, and more, Vietnam's exports of technical textiles reached USD 676.6 million for the first nine months of 2022, up 17.1% compared to the same period in 2021^[4]. This in turn bodes well for the country’s import prospects of quality machinery and equipment. Hoping to cater to domestic demand at VIATT 2024, international suppliers in this category include Julai, SIGMA, and Skwentex.

Meanwhile, apparel-related products make up the lion’s share of the country’s textile exports – according to Vietnam Textile & Apparel Association (VITAS), in 2022 these numbered USD 29.1 billion. From Ho Chi Minh to Hanoi, numerous international fashion brands have a manufacturing presence, including Adidas, H&M, Lacoste, Lululemon, Nike, The North Face, Uniqlo, and many more. At next year’s fair, exhibitors such as Avery Dennison, Lenzing, Stylem Takisada-Osaka, and Texwinca, will aim to draw the attention of apparel brands and a wide range of other domestic and international buyers.

The Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the Vietnam Trade Promotion Agency (VIETRADE), covering the entire textile industry value chain.

^[1] ‘Everything You Need to Know About Traveling to Vietnam with an APEC Business Travel Card’, April 2023, Vietnam Briefing, https://www.vietnam-briefing.com/news/apec-business-travel-card-vietnam.html/ (Retrieved: November 2023)
^[2] ‘Vietnam Introduces E-Visa for All Nationalities from August 15, 2023’, August 2023, Vietnam Briefing, https://www.vietnam-briefing.com/news/vietnam-introduces-e-visa-for-all-nationalities-from-august-15-2023.html/ (Retrieved: November 2023)
^[3] ‘Vietnam Home Textile Market Size & Share Analysis’, 2023, Mordor Intelligence, https://shorturl.at/wQVWZ (Retrieved: November 2023)
^[4] ‘Vietnam's technical fabric exports continue to be positive’, October 2022, Web Portal of Supporting Industry of Vietnam, https://shorturl.at/lmnvX (Retrieved: November 2023)

Researchers at the ITA, the University of Bonn and Heimbach GmbH have developed a new method for removing oil spills from water surfaces in an energy-saving, cost-effective way and without the use of toxic substances. The method is made possible by a technical textile that is integrated into a floating container. A single small device can remove up to 4 liters of diesel within an hour. This corresponds to about 100 m2 of oil film on a water surface.
 
Despite the steady expansion of renewable energies, global oil production, oil consumption and the risk of oil pollution have increased steadily over the last two decades. In 2022, global oil production amounted to 4.4 billion tons! Accidents often occur during the extraction, transportation and use of oil, resulting in serious and sometimes irreversible environmental pollution and harm to humans.

There are various methods for removing this oil pollution from water surfaces. However, all methods have various shortcomings that make them difficult to use and, in particular, limit the removal of oil from inland waters.

For many technical applications, unexpected solutions come from the field of biology. Millions of years of evolution led to optimized surfaces of living organisms for their interaction with the environment. Solutions - often rather unfamiliar to materials scientists and difficult to accept. The long-time routine examination of around 20,000 different species showed that there is an almost infinite variety of structures and functionalities. Some species in particular stand out for their excellent oil adsorption properties. It was shown that, e.g., leaves of the floating fern Salvinia molesta, adsorb oil, separate it from water surfaces and transport it on their surfaces (Figure 1, see also the video of the phenomon.).

The observations inspired them to transfer the effect to technical textiles for separating oil and water. The result is a superhydrophobic spacer fabric that can be produced industrially and is therefore easily scalable.

The bio-inspired textile can be integrated into a device for oil-water separation. This entire device is called a Bionic Oil Adsorber (BOA). Figure 2: Cross-section of computer-aided (CAD) model of the Bionic Oil Adsorber. The scheme shows an oil film (red) on a water surface (light blue). In the floating cotainer(gray), the textile (orange) is fixed so that it is in contact with the oil film and the end protrudes into the container. The oil is adsorbed and transported by the BOA textile. As shown in the cross-section, it enters the contain-er, where it is released again and accumulates at the bottom of the container. See also the video regarding the oil absorption on the textile, source ITA).
 
Starting from the contamination in the form of an oil film on the water surface, the separation and collection process works according to the following steps:

• The BOA is introduced into the oil film.
• The oil is adsorbed by the textile and separated from the water at the same time.
• The oil is transported through the textile into the collection container.
• The oil drips from the textile into the collection container.
• The oil is collected until the container is emptied.

The advantage of this novel oil separation device is that no additional energy has to be applied to operate the BOA. The oil is separated from the surrounding water by the surface properties of the textile and transported through the textile driven solely by capillary forces, even against gravity. When it reaches the end of the textile in the collection container, the oil desorbs without any further external influence due to gravitational forces. With the current scale approximately 4 L of diesel can be separated from water by one device of the Bionic Oil Adsorber per hour.

• It seems unlikely that a functionalized knitted spacer textile is cheaper than a conventional nonwoven, like it is commonly used for oil sorbents. However, since it is a functional material, the costs must be related to the amount of oil removed. In this respect, if we compare the sales price of the BOA textile with the sales prices of various oil-binding nonwovens, the former is 5 to 13 times cheaper with 10 ct/L oil removed.
  Overall, the BOA device offers a cost-effective and sustainable method of oil-water separation in contrast to conventional cleaning methods due to the following advantages:
• No additional energy requirements, such as with oil skimmers, are necessary
• No toxic substances are introduced into the water body, such as with oil dispersants
• The textiles and equipment can be reused multiple times
• No waste remains inside the water body
• Inexpensive in terms of the amount of oil removed.
• The team of researchers from the ITA, the University of Bonn and Heimbach GmbH was able to prove that the novel biomimetic BOA technology is surprisingly efficient and sustainable for a self-controlled separation and automatic collection of oil films including their complete removal from the water. BOA can be asapted for open water application but also for the use in inland waters. Furthermore, it is promising, that the textile can be used in various related separation processes. The product is currently being further developed so that it can be launched on the market in 2-3 years.

Carbios was one of eight beneficiaries selected to present the progress of its industrial project in the presence of the President of the French Republic on the occasion of the two-
year anniversary of the launch of the France 2030 investment plan. Carbios is receiving €42.5 million in public funding (€30 million from the State as part of France 2030 and €12.5 million from the Grand-Est Region) for the construction of the plant for the enzymatic depolymerization of PET. Carbios is an emblematic example of the France 2030 initiative to support innovative projects that contribute to reindustrialization through innovation in strategic sectors, such as recycling. This plant, located in Longlaville in the Grand-Est Region, will be Carbios' first industrial site. Construction has just begun.

Carbios' technology enables PET circularity and provides an alternative raw material to virgin fossil-based monomers, allowing PET producers, waste management companies, public entities, and brands to have an efficient solution to meet regulatory requirements and fulfill their own sustainability commitments. The plant will have a processing capacity of 50,000 tons of post-consumer PET waste per year (equivalent to 2 billion colored PET bottles, 2.5 billion PET trays, or 300 million T-shirts) and will address waste with little or no value such as colored PET bottles, food trays, and textiles. The plant will create 150 direct and indirect jobs in the region. In October 2023, Carbios obtained the building permit in 10 months (the average duration in France is 17 months) and the site operating permit, allowing construction to begin. The plant is currently under construction in Longlaville in the Grand-Est Region.

The House Select Committee on the Strategic Competition Between the United States and the Chinese Communist Party, led by Chairman Mike Gallagher (R-WI) and Ranking Member Raja Krishnamoorthi (D-IL), adopted nearly 150 policy recommendations in a bipartisan report that outlines a strategy to fundamentally reset the United States' economic and technological competition with the People's Republic of China.

After the adoption of the policy recommendations on an bipartisan basis, Chairman Gallagher and Ranking Member Krishnamoorthi said, “With this report, the Select Committee has shown that the bipartisan will exists to meet the call of history. It embraces the clear reality that our current economic relationship with the People's Republic of China needs to be reset in order to serve the economic and national security interests of the United States, while offering nearly 150 bipartisan recommendations for Congress to legislate. Collectively, these recommendations will reset the terms of our relationship with the PRC, prevent the flow of American capital and technology from supporting its military advances and human rights abuses, and build collective economic resilience in concert with our allies and partners while ensuring American leadership for decades to come."

Members of the Select Committee spent the past year investigating the CCP's decades-long campaign of economic and technological warfare. The members define three key pillars that inform each recommendation and the United States' path to correct 30 years of misguided policy:

• RESET: Reset the Terms of Our Economic Relationship with the People's Republic of China.
• PREVENT: Stem the Flow of U.S. Capital and Technology Fueling the People's Republic of China's Military Modernization and Human Rights Abuses
• BUILD: Invest in Technological Leadership and Build Collective Economic Resilience in Concert with Allies

Autoneum’s sustainable, textile and lightweight Propylat technology reduces both interior and exterior noise of vehicles. Propylat was originally developed by Borgers Automotive, which was acquired by Autoneum in April 2023. The versatile technology is characterized by a flexible material composition of natural and synthetic fibers with a high recycled content and contributes to significant waste reduction thanks to its complete vertical integration. In addition, the fully recyclable technology variant Propylat PET is now part of the sustainability label Autoneum Pure.

The ongoing electrification of mobility as well as increasingly strict regulatory requirements for vehicle performance in terms of sustainability and acoustics are presenting new challenges to car manufacturers worldwide. With Propylat, Autoneum now offers another lightweight, fiber-based and versatile technology whose sound-insulating and -absorbing properties as well as high content of recycled materials help customers address these challenges. Propylat-based products not only contribute to reducing pass-by noise and improving driver comfort, but they are also up to 50 percent lighter than equivalent plastic alternatives; this results in a lower vehicle weight and, consequently, less fuel and energy consumption as well as lower CO2 emissions.

Autoneum's innovative Propylat technology consists of a mixture of recycled synthetic and natural fibers – the latter include cotton, jute, flax or hemp, for example – that are consolidated using thermoplastic binding fibers without adding any further chemical binders. Thanks to the flexible fiber composition and the variable density and thickness of the porous material, the properties of the respective Propylat variant, for example with regards to acoustic performance, can be tailored to individual customer requirements. This allows for a versatile application of the technology in a variety of interior and exterior components such as wheelhouse outer liners, trunk trim, underbody systems and carpets. For instance, Propylat-based wheelhouse outer liners significantly reduce rolling noise both inside and outside the vehicle while at the same time offering optimum protection against stone chipping and spray water.

In terms of sustainability, Propylat always contains a high proportion of recycled fibers – up to 100% in some variants – and can be manufactured with zero waste. Thanks to the full vertical integration of Propylat and Autoneum’s extensive expertise in recycling processes, the technology also contributes to a further significant reduction in production waste. Moreover, the Propylat PET technology variant, which consists of 100% PET, of which up to 70% are recycled fibers, is fully recyclable at the end of product life. For this reason, Propylat PET has been selected for Autoneum Pure – the Company’s sustainability label for technologies with excellent environmental performance throughout the product life cycle – where it will replace the current Mono-Liner technology going forward.

Propylat-based components are currently available in Europe, North America and China.

Suedwolle Group introduces ACTIVEYARN®, the company’s first seasonless corporate collection: ACTIVEYARN® is composed of a selection of weaving, flat and circular knitting, hosiery and technical yarns, with advanced spinning technologies, wool blends and other natural and traceable fibres. It is a seasonless collection of yarns suitable for different occasions, to support everyone’s attitude and style.

This idea is expressed by the concept of “Get active”, which is not just about using Suedwolle Group’s products in sports applications, but about a new mindset, a changing perspective. By taking a fresh look at the company’s wide offer, ACTIVEYARN® provides new opportunities and inspiration to explore Suedwolle Group’s full potential in terms of technology, sustainability and innovations. It considers with a new point of view on the collections for knitting, weaving and technical uses, creating new connections among them and offering a mosaic of new possibilities and versatile combinations.

This theme of the collection and the new mindset may be represented in the concept of a “kaleidoscope”, symbol of the active change inspiring Suedwolle Group’s creativity.

The yarns in the ACTIVEYARN® collection embody the company’s six strategic pillars of innovation – sustainability, circularity, traceability, design, performance and technology – drivers of the entire process of design and production.

Jasmin GOTS Nm 2/48 (100% wool 19,5 μ X-CARE) is a natural, renewable and biodegradable yarn with GOTS certification that meets the company’s demand for sustainability. X-CARE, the innovative treatment by Suedwolle Group, uses eco-friendly and chlorine-free substances that make wool environmentally friendly and suitable for easy-care quality.

Tirano Betaspun® RWS FSC (41,5% wool 17,2 μ TEC RWS certified, 41,5% LENZING™Lyocell 1,4 dtex 17% polyamide filament 22 dtex GRS certified) is a fully traceable high performance yarn, suitable for sportswear and activewear.

OTW® Midway GRS Nm 2/60 (60% wool 23,5 μ X-CARE, 40% polyamide 3,3 dtex GRS certified) comes from the recycling of pre-consumer polyamide and thus is a perfect example of circular production. Suitable for weaving, it combines the added performance that comes from our OTW® patented technology applied to a high durability blend, ideal for active garments.

Wallaby Betaspun® Nm 1/60 (87,5% wool 18,4 μ TEC, 12,5% polyamide filament 22 dtex) is the result of application of latest-generation Betaspun® technology to a natural fibre like wool, allowing production of fine yarns with extra strength and abrasion resistance, ideal for seamless and wrap knitting.

Banda TEC X-Compact Nm 2/47 (100% wool 17,2 μ TEC) is a 100% natural, renewable and biodegradable yarn benefitting from the innovative X-Compact, permitting production of particularly linear yarns ideal for clean design and fabrics appropriate for today’s fashions.

Caprera GRS Nm 1/60 (45% wool 19,3 μ Non mulesed X-CARE 55% COOLMAX® EcoMade polyester 2,2 dtex GRS certified) increases the performance of the wool-based non mulesed fibre through combination with COOLMAX® EcoMade polyester. This is a material coming from recycling of post-consumer PET bottles, dyeable at low temperatures, that aids evaporation of moisture from the skin to maintain stable body temperature, enhancing the comfort of activewear and urban garments.

Faster and more cost-effective carbon fibre production - the technology of the start-up CarboScreen comes a good deal closer to this dream. The founders Dr. Musa Akdere, Felix Pohlkemper and Tim Röding from the Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) of RWTH Aachen University are using sensor technology to monitor carbon fibre production, thereby doubling the production speed from the current 15 to 30 m/min in the medium term and increasing turnover by up to €37.5 million per year and system. This ground-breaking development also impressed the jury at the ITMF at their Annual Conference in Keqiao, China, and was honoured with the ITMF StartUp Award 2023 on 6 November 2023.

Dr. Musa Akdere accepted the award on behalf of the CarboScreen founding team.

Carbon fibres can only develop their full potential if they are not damaged during production and further processing. Two types of fibre damage occur more frequently during fibre production: Superficial or mechanical damage to the fibres or damage to the chemical structure.

Both types of damage cannot be optimally detected by current means or only become apparent after production, to name just two examples. This leads to higher production costs. In an emergency, faulty production can even lead to plant fires. For this reason, and to ensure good production quality, the system is run at 15 m/min below its production capacity for safety reasons. However, 30 m/min or more would be possible. With the sensor-based online monitoring of CarboScreen, the production capacity can be doubled to 30 /min. This would lead to higher production, resulting in lower manufacturing costs and wider use of carbon fibres in mass markets such as automotive, aerospace and wind energy.

In a world where water-repellent textiles play an important role in various industries, Pulcra Chemicals has joined forces with its subsidiary, Devan Chemicals, to introduce DEVAN REPEL. The first product, DEVAN REPEL ONE, is a durable water repellent for Polyester and blends. The development of DEVAN REPEL ONE is a joint to Devan and Pulcra's dedication to innovation and sustainability.

The solution offers a range of benefits:

• Superior Performance: The technology offers outstanding water repellency performance, ensuring that textiles remain dry. Whether it's rain and outdoor wear, outdoor furnishing, shower curtains or multiple technical textiles, the new solution can handle it, making it a strong choice for industries where water resistance is paramount.
• Flexibility: The versatility of this technology can be applied to a wide range of materials, with especially good results on polyester and its blends, offering flexibility for various applications across industries.
• Enhanced Sustainability: This technology is free from perfluorinated compounds (PFCs), and free from isocyanates.
• Longevity: Products treated with this water repellency technology are protecting from the elements for a longer lifespan.

Performance, particularly on effect durability, can be boosted to meet different requirements with new DEVAN EXTENDER GEN3. This extender is free of Isocyanate, Butanone-oxime and 2-dimethylpyrazole.

HeiQ announces the appointment of Robert van de Kerkhof as Non-Executive Director, with effect from 1 January 2024 to the board of HeiQ plc and as Chairman of the Environmental, Occupation, Health & Safety and Sustainability Committee. Robert will also be appointed to the board of HeiQ AeoniQ Holding AG (in Switzerland), a subsidiary of HeiQ plc.

Robert van de Kerkhof has over 30 years of experience in general management and sustainability leadership and extensive knowledge of the textiles industry, including cellulosic fiber technology. He founded PEPPER-i2, an advisory company specializing in sustainability and circularity. Robert also serves as the Chief Sustainability Officer and as a Board Member of Lenzing AG, a position he has held since 2014. Robert will be leaving Lenzing and its Board on the 31st. December 2023.

Robert joins HEIQ AeoniQ™ with the firm belief that the novel HEIQ AeoniQ™ man-made cellulosic fibers (MMCF) are one of the most promising solutions to transform the textile industry, now the second-most polluting in the world, into one of the most sustainable, by rendering fossil fuel-based fibers like polyester obsolete.

Robert has also held senior positions as President of the Austrian Fiber Institute, President and Board Member of CIRFS – the European Man-made Fibres Association, and Chairman of the ReHubs Business Council for Euratex, which is the voice of the European Apparel and Textile Industry.