From the Sector

Candiani launches at Kingpins its new eco-smart denim range in partnership with ROICA™ from Asahi Kasei
Both companies can claim their separate leading roles in textile innovation. Candiani, ‘the Greenest Mill in The Blue World’, is always at the cutting edge of new developments, and ROICA™  with  its  various premium stretch functions. Now they join forces through a unique synergy and an exclusive, custom made premium stretch sustainable ROICA™ yarn developed by Asahi Kasei especially for Candiani.
 
ReLAST is a range of market fresh responsible denim products, designed by Candiani that tick every smart box: from new ways in colouration, to better, more sustainable raw materials, new finishing and fade-tech that minimises water waste, and now with a key responsible stretch ingredient in a specially produced GRS certified ROICA™ yarn that perfectly completes this range making better, more sustainable, sharp fashions for customers looking to live and wear better with better values.

New Colouration values in the K-Seal range come from indigo applied with a water saving Indigo Juice® system. Or in the KN-Cotton range from cotton scraps recycled and dyed with Archroma earth colours. Both are sized with the Kitotex® Vegetal size derived from plants and natural renewables.

• At Kingpins Show Amsterdam (24-25 October) the new “Committed Accessories” dedicated to denim take centre stage.

For the appointment with the exhibition dedicated to denim Metalbottoni focuses on its new range of increasingly green accessories which have captured the attention of the northern European brands most attentive to sustainability in the world of jeans and elsewhere. A range of proposals which, in recent months, has progressed remarkably, following the rules established by the corporate responsibility protocol called NO IMPACT.

This is a responsible approach underlined by the promise “Committed Accessories”, but also a strategic choice with a view to approaching those markets which so far have appeared to be most keen on the subject, for example northern Europe, Benelux and the United States, California in particular. This means that Metalbottoni is acting with increasing assertiveness on those scenarios where it has been present for a long time, in order to increase the segments depth, intercepting new ones, thanks to its wide-ranging eco-compatible proposal.

NO IMPACT: “Committed Accessories” expanded

It is the constant search for sustainable innovation that reveals the extent of the progress made over the past few months by Metalbottoni. For the Kingpins Show exhibition, there are many novelties in store from the company, extending its range in terms of sustainability. Firstly, there is the new MONSTER line eco-processing, special for pure denim, which – apart from metal – includes new material solutions developed through high-profile collaborations.

Also the LEATHER ACCESSORIES line is extending its range of sustainable materials. The line of tags and rear waistband labels is enhanced through interpretations based on two new eco-friendly materials: recycled jacron and cork. For denim designed to be 100% green, also in accessories. Sustainable proposals are increasingly integrated throughout the Metalbottoni range, for example the new glossy and satin finishing developed for the line LABORA on exclusive metal accessories.

Partnerships with brands from northern Europe: Bik Bok and Kings of Indigo

One of the most important collaboration in sustainable fashion is the one with the Norwegian brand Bik Bok. The brand that was founded in 1973 dedicated to young women, today offer accessible trend driven fashion through a network of over 200 single-brand stores in Norway, Sweden, Finland and Austria. The brand has since 2017 chosen to use only BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) certified cotton for their in house premium denim brand Never Denim. For Never Denim Metalbottoni has realized a series of jeans buttons and personalized rivets, all entirely produced according to the NO IMPACT protocol; which means recycled raw materials, no use of chemical agents, through processing and machinery that minimize the use of water and electricity, resulting 100% from photovoltaic panels. All these features are part of a capsule developed for the new AW 2018 collection for Never Denim entirely made with Fair Trade certified cotton. Thanks to this project, the No Impact becomes an integral part of a collection that is aimed at a very large, young and aware public.

Another important brand which has chosen the new NO IMPACT metal accessories is Kings Of Indigo, the Dutch denim mill which is presenting top-quality jeans, inspired by traditional American style, combined with Japanese attention to detail, which today has as many 250 authorised dealers in 12 countries, with a very strong focus on northern Europe.

More and more sportswear for the new Monster SS 2020 collection

The great Metalbottoni classic dedicated to denim confirms the trend of strongly merging with the world of sportswear. The MONSTER line introduces the style developments of the SS 2020 season, with the range being more and more influenced by technical and sports interpretations, alongside sustainable production processes based on the NO IMPACT protocol. The new MONSTER proposals include items made of non-metal material, using sustainable processes, of natural origin and 100% biodegradable; these accessories are similar in appearance to traditional polyester, interpreted in a responsible way, developed through a series of special and unique effects. Also the button, rivet and small plate range has been restyled, having always been the core of the MONSTER line. Today the number of solutions available increases  hanks to new vintage finishing, developed on metal accessories, which are also totally green. “The denim world is moving in a clear direction: that of sustainability.” says Maria Teresa Ricciardo, Creative Director at Metalbottoni, “This is true in particular for some markets, which are strategic for us, and where we are proving increasingly successful, thanks to constant product and process research from a green  perspective, which Metalbottoni today is able to offer within the framework of the NO IMPACT pathway which we have been pursuing for a long time”.

Auf der Heimtextil, die von 8. bis 11. Januar 2019 in Frankfurt stattfindet, wird die Trevira GmbH gemeinsam mit 22 wichtigen Trevira CS Kunden in Halle 4.2 mit einem über 2000 qm² großen Stand vertreten sein. Im Vergleich zum Vorjahr stellt dies eine erhebliche Vergrößerung der Standfläche (2018: 1300 qm) und Erhöhung der Anzahl der teilnehmenden Trevira Kunden dar (2018: 16).

Der Hersteller von hochwertigen, schwer entflammbaren Polyesterfasern präsentiert sich 2019 mit einem erweiterten Messekonzept: Zusammen mit 22 Top-Kunden wird Trevira die komplette textile Wertschöpfungskette abbilden: von der Faserproduktion und Garnherstellung zur Färberei und weiter zur Flächenproduktion bei Webern, Wirkern und Strickern bis hin zum Textilverlag. An individuellen Ständen stellen die Kunden ihre Trevira CS Kollektionen für den Heimtextil- und Objektbereich aus und zeigen ihren Beitrag zur textilen Wertschöpfungskette. Der Besucher erhält somit einen Einblick in die komplexe und aufwändige Herstellung von Textilien und darüber hinaus in den „Verwandlungsprozess“ von Polyesterfasern in attraktive, funktionale Stoffe, die durch Optik und Haptik überzeugen können und Wertigkeit vermitteln.

Geschäftsführer Klaus Holz: „Die überaus positive Resonanz im Markt auf unseren Gemeinschaftsstand auf der Heimtextil 2018 hat uns darin bestätigt, dieses Konzept auch 2019 weiter zu verfolgen und noch auszubauen. Wir freuen uns, dass wir uns dieses Jahr mit noch mehr Trevira CS Top-Kunden auf der Messe präsentieren und mit ihnen zusammen die komplette textile Wertschöpfungskette abbilden können.“

A new important partnership marks the path of Itema towards a greener future for the whole denim production chain. Prosperity Textile, one of the main denim producers worldwide, has chosen for its new facility one of the most interesting and sustainable-oriented Itema technologies, iSAVER™ equipped on the Itema R95002denim. Prosperity Textiles is, in fact, one of the early adopters of this new technology chosen for the new plant that the world-famous indigo fabrics producer will open in Vietnam, and that will be exclusively equipped with the latest Itema weaving machine model, demonstrating once again its green, future-oriented approach.

Thanks to its partnership with Itema, Prosperity Textiles makes again a step forward in terms of sustainable innovation, as one of the first denim producers able to successfully turn - even the weaving production - green. A partnership that is planned to be showcased in some of the most important textiles exhibitions worldwide focusing on Asian and denim markets. A path that starts with KingpinsShow, Amsterdam (October 24-25) where the Chinese denim producer will put into the spotlight this brand-new solution aimed at further increasing the eco-driven approach of the company; an important appointment is also in the Itema calendar: the ITMA Asia + CITME 2018 exhibition, Shanghai (October 15-19) where the Italian company showcased the important green step-forward in denim weaving processes and the full range of its innovations.

iSAVER™: the ideal green tool for denim weaving
This new technology, developed by ItemaLab™, the Itema Advanced Innovation Department, isable to completely eliminate the left-hand weft waste, allowing to insert the weft yarns in the fabric without the need of additional yarns. iSAVER™ significantly reduces raw material waste, leading to tangible benefits in terms of machine’s efficiency, cost reduction and energy saving.

Just consider that the weaver will gain a minimum saving of € 2.000 per year per machine, and our planet will gain even more. In fact, for the first time in the weaving industry, a sustainable approach when choosing the weaving equipment is now possible. Thanks to iSAVER™, 1.000 Kg of cotton per machine per year – the 3% of the total raw materials - will be saved, thus avoiding the waste of 20 million liters of water, equivalent to 400.000 showers.

Numbers are clear: the introduction of iSAVER™ clearly sets a new benchmark in terms of sustainability within denim fabric production. Furthermore, the iSAVER™ is one of the key features of the Itema R95002denim, the rapier weaving machine born and designed to weave denim guaranteeing to weavers superior textile quality, outstanding user-friendliness and tangible energy and raw materials saving.

A joint eco-driven path
Itema, understanding very well the importance of saving resources and energy to drive the textile production in the direction of a more conscious manufacturing, focused its attention to develop breakthrough weaving solutions and in 2018 introduced to the market the iSAVER™, a revolutionary device dedicated specifically to denim fabrics able to eliminate the waste selvedge on the left-hand side of the fabric.

This is one of the reasons-why Prosperity Textiles has chosen to adopt this extraordinary technology for its new facility. Today Prosperity Textiles is one of the main denim producers worldwide, counting 1,300 employees and 20 offices worldwide. Moreover, a second state-of-theart denim mill will be inaugurated in Vietnam by the end of 2018.
What makes Prosperity able to stand out on a global scale, is not simply its products high quality but the ability to conciliate flawless denim fabric production with a sustainability-oriented mindset that permeates every stage of their textile supply chain.

Prosperity, indeed, adopted innovative green manufacturing concepts through all stages of the company’s operations, from product development, raw materials procurement and processing, to natural resources and energy utilization including waste management. Prosperity’s denim production is based on the employment of best quality yarns available on the market, while still targeting the most sustainable sources, from BCI to organic, recycled cotton, and from Tencel™ Lyocell to Sustans™, in 2017, more than 20 million yards fabric sales from Prosperity are with sustainable fibers inside.
The introduction of eco-friendly dyeing and finishing practices allows the company to create beautiful indigo shades and performance denims, with less water and energy consumption compared to the traditional systems. Last year, Prosperity produced 20% more fabrics than 2016, yet the water and electricity use and greenhouse gas emission was down by 11.5%, 7.9% and 5.4% respectively.

In this continuous process of improvement and contribution to a greener industry and planet, plays a central role the recent renewal of the historic partnership and strategic alliance with Itema – the leading manufacturer of cutting-edge weaving solutions – which represents the natural evolution of a constant process of research for partners able to support Prosperity Textiles’ growth as a sustainable company.
Up to now, all innovations and efforts done in this regard addressed the traditionally more polluting steps of the denim production. In fact, if the development of green technologies is nowadays spread in many fabric processing stages, such as finishing and dyeing, weaving was not yet capable to provide sustainable solutions to weavers.

• Mit der Bundesvereinigung Logistik (BVL) erhält der Handelslogistik-Kongress Log neben EHI, GS1 Germany und dem Markenverband einen weiteren Branchenkenner als Veranstalter. Das Event und damit die Teilnehmer profitieren von einem breiteren Spektrum an Themen, Referenten und Praxisbeiträgen.

Die Logistik beschäftigt drei Millionen Menschen und ist laut der Bundesvereinigung Logistik (BVL) mit einem Umsatz von rund 267 Milliarden Euro in 2017 der drittgrößte Wirtschaftszweig Deutschlands. Hinter dieser Leistung steckt zum einen der Dienstleistungssektor, der die Güter bewegt. Zum anderen wird sie von Menschen erbracht, die in Unternehmen Logistik planen, steuern und umsetzen. Diese Experten zu vernetzen, um Lösungen für eine zukunftsfähige Handelslogistik zu diskutieren und voranzutreiben, ist das Leitmotiv des Handelslogistik-Kongresses Log.

Die Veranstaltung transportiert Expertise für die Optimierung von Prozessen und fördert das kollaborative Miteinander in der Supply Chain. Jetzt begrüßen das EHI Retail Institute (EHI), GS1 Germany und der Markenverband die Bundesvereinigung Logistik als weiteren Veranstalter in ihrer Mitte.

Gemeinsames Ziel dieser Kooperation ist es, die Bedeutung der Log für die Handelsbranche weiter auszubauen und Entscheidern aus Wirtschaft, Wissenschaft sowie Politik zusätzliche Impulse für eine schlagkräftige Supply Chain zu liefern. Dazu lässt die Bundesvereinigung Logistik unter anderem wegweisende Beispiele aus anderen logistischen Bereichen in den Kongress einfließen. Im kommenden Jahr werden die vier Partner erstmalig die Log gemeinsam ausrichten. Sie findet am 26. und 27. März 2019 in Köln statt und bietet den Teilnehmern durch die Zusammenarbeit ein noch breiteres Spektrum an Themen und Referenten. Die Veranstalter versprechen zum Beispiel zusätzliche Dynamik durch ein breiteres Diskussionsangebot.

• Textile Exchange’s Sustainability Conference - Milan, October 22-24, 2018
• The theme of the 2018 conference is United by Action: Accelerating Sustainability in Textiles and Fashion.

The conference offers an opportunity to connect with industry pioneers and learn about cutting edge solutions and innovations in textile and apparel sustainability. As a result, C.L.A.S.S., headquartered in Milan, the global resource for smart material innovation, education, marketing and communication, will be on hand to support this year’s theme.

Many of the materials the C.L.A.S.S. team will showcase speak to circular economy such as Re.VerSo™, Bemberg™ and ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei, Iluna Group and TINTEX Textiles and many others that use technological breakthroughs to offer fashion materials that provide significant reductions in water during the manufacturing process, an important step toward responsible future fashion systems.

During Textile Exchange’s Sustainability Conference, Giusy Bettoni, C.L.A.S.S. CEO and Founder and her team will have a dedicated space to engage attendees in an open discussion regarding the importance of fashion business strategies. The experience in the space, that will reflect an New York event created for C.L.A.S.S. by Ginger Design, will start with the vision of a film by Cristina Picchi that represents harmony between the various phases of the textile process and the cycles of natural elements. Visitors will walk through a three-dimensional installation designed by Cécile Feilchenfeldt to inspire creativity and explore the limitless possibilities using innovative smart materials.

“We are always proud to have a presence at international events including this year’s Textile Exchange’s Sustainability Conference. It is a great way for us to share our expertise regarding responsible innovation and new business model strategies. As C.L.A.S.S. is headquartered in Milan, we are proud that they selected our city for this year’s conference. Being held in Milan provides a chance for us to support Textile Exchange regarding smart material innovation, many of them produced in Italy.” said Bettoni.

Just off their return from Première Vision in Paris, Bettoni who is also the Sustainability Consultant for Smart Creation, recognizes the importance for her company to have a strong international presence to spread C.L.A.S.S.’ message to a global audience regarding responsible creation. 

As C.L.A.S.S. enters their second decade of business, they have expanded their business activities to include e-commerce that provides an opportunity for fashion start-up to purchase up to a maximum of 50, an initiative launched to support fashion start-ups. And a new division, C.L.A.S.S. Education, an initiative Bettoni co-founded with James Mendolia, also a Professor, Fashion Institute of Technology. Mendolia has been visiting universities to speak to fashion design, business, textiles and production students in Europe, Asia and North America to encourage attendees to infuse a new way of design thinking and move from a linear to a circular business model.   

Neuer Partner an der Radsport-Spitze

Ab der Saison 2019 gehen die Profis des UCI-Radrennstalls Sunweb in CRAFT an den Start. Der schwedische Funktionsbekleidungs-Spezialist arbeitet schon über Jahre hinweg erfolgreich mit unterschiedlichen Radrenn-Mannschaften zusammen. Nun werden die Schweden offizieller und langfristiger Ausrüstungspartner des deutschen UCI-World-Tour-Teams mit Sitz in den Niederlanden.

Funktionsunterwäsche, Rennbekleidung und Freizeitbekleidung: Ab dem 01. Januar 2019 kleidet CRAFT sowohl Herren-, als auch Damen- und Nachwuchsteam von Sunweb von Kopf bis Fuß ein und stimmt dabei alles individuell auf die Athleten ab.

CRAFT-Geschäftsführer Andre Bachmann freut sich auf die zukünftige Zusammenarbeit: „Der Radrennsport ist tief in den Genen von CRAFT verankert. Daher freuen wir uns ganz besonders, ein so spannendes und dynamisches UCI-Team wie Sunweb mit unserer Bekleidung zu unterstützen. Mit Fahrern wie Tom Dumoulin, der in diesem Jahr Zweiter bei der Tour de France wurde, dem Sprinter und zweimaligen Etappensieger der letztjährigen Frankreichrundfahrt, Michael Matthews, oder den deutschen Fahrern  Nikias Arndt und Nachwuchstalent Lennard Kämna zeigt das Team großes Potenzial, um auch in Zukunft ganz oben angreifen zu können. Wir sind gespannt auf die Zusammenarbeit und fiebern der neuen Saison schon jetzt entgegen!"

Bei der Entwicklung neuer, technischer Produkte vertraut CRAFT zudem auf die langjährige Erfahrung der Sunweb-Profis und bindet sie daher eng in den Prozess mit ein. Das Zusammenspiel Ihrer praktischen Expertise mit dem technischen Knowhow der Marke spiegelt sich in den neuen Bike-Kollektionen der Schweden wider

• Huntsman Textile Effects and The Chemours Company FC, LLC (‘Chemours’) have agreed to expand their long-term alliance in the area of durable water repellence (DWR).

Singapore – By combining the strengths of both companies in innovation, technical support and marketing, the expanded co-operation unlocks the full potential of the alliance to develop and deliver new, sustainable DWR solutions and chemistry.  This historical alliance that was established in the early 1990s has been at the forefront of delivering state-of-the-art solutions to the textile industry for durable water repellent effects. In addition to
fluorinated solutions, the expanded alliance will now be able to offer non-fluorinated alternatives as well. The alliance will cover different aspects of the value chain including research, marketing, technical support and manufacturing.

“Strengthening the partnership between Huntsman Textile Effects and Chemours unlocks the full potential of both companies to shape technology and product offerings in sustainable durable water repellency. Our cooperation, which has stood the test of time, has clearly demonstrated that strong environmental credentials and performance can co-exist in equal measure. We are excited to move forward with a broader alliance as we strengthen our position as the industry leader in DWR textile solutions,” said Jay Naidu, Vice President, Strategic Marketing and Planning, Huntsman Textile Effects.

“Chemours is excited to expand our partnership with Huntsman Textile Effects. This partnership reinforces our commitment to take a leadership role in the innovation and development of more sustainable and high performing products that address the rapidly evolving needs of the textile industry and the consumers that use these products,” said Jesal Chopra, Vice President, Chemours Fluoropolymers.

Together, Huntsman Textile Effects and Chemours have worked to lead the textile industry’s transition  from long-chain water repellent products to more environmentally friendly short-chain chemistry and, more recently, non-fluorinated chemistry. The collaboration has resulted in new, market-leading DWR solutions that deliver on performance and sustainability. Chemours introduced Teflon EcoElite™ with Zelan™ R3 technology in 2015, a renewably sourced, non-fluorinated water repellent finish. Containing 60% plant-based materials* and complying with all key industry standards, Zelan™ R3 repellent offers excellent water repellency and durability while preserving fabric breathability. It meets or exceeds performance levels possible with fluorinated technologies. Teflon™ Eco Dry with Zelan™ R2 PLUS technology, which compliments Teflon EcoElite™, was recently introduced. Zelan™ R2 PLUS contains 30% renewably sourced plant-based raw materials* and is focused on delivering a high level of durable water repellency for all substrates.

In 2017, Huntsman Textile Effects introduced PHOBOTEX® RSY non-fluorinated durable water repellent, which was developed to specifically meet extreme protection, comfort and durability requirements for both synthetic and cellulosic fibers, delivering an enhanced environmental profile for brands. PHOBOTEX® RSY durable water repellent raises the bar in performance on synthetics, allowing brands to offer high-performance weather protection with an assurance of eco-friendly sustainability. Providing effective protection in extreme environments together with breathable comfort, PHOBOTEX® RSY durable water repellent repulses rain, sleet, and snow, ideal for highperformance outerwear fabrics.

Both companies bring a rich and established heritage firmly centered on research and innovation. Through their expanded alliance, joint research and development efforts in DWR enable Huntsman and Chemours to stay at the forefront of industry trends and regulatory changes for a more sustainable textile industry.

This autumn, following the success of the first collaboration with Swizz Beatz, Bally joins forces on another unique collection with the Grammy Award-winning music producer and global entrepreneur, inviting meticulously talented pioneer of aerosol X-ray art SHOK-1 to conceptualise and direct a new capsule collection which presents a diagnostic look at contemporary culture through cutting edge expression.

A founding member of the street art movement and a scientist with a degree in Applied Chemistry, SHOK-1 selected three key icons from his back catalogue - X-ray paintings of a hand gesture, a fly and ’The Consumer’ - that symbolise subcultures from his youth that also connect to Bally’s past. The artworks are represented across shoes, accessories and ready to wear. Talking about his vision for the project, SHOK-1 explained that he wanted ‘the collection to speak to the longstanding tradition of subcultures co-opting brands that weren’t meant for them.’ ‘I strongly believe that quality and excellence are universal concepts that can transcend class and cultural boundaries. The Bally that I remember as a kid has this fantastic relationship with subculture. It’s also a brand that has the same kind of attention to detail and production values that I aspire to in my own work, so there was a synergy there.’ Familiar with SHOK-1’s work, Swizz Beatz saw the potential and contacted him to discuss the opportunity: ‘SHOK-1 is a master artist and I chose him because our focus for this capsule was on exploring the art of X-ray and he’s a legend at his craft.’

As with all Bally collaborations, the metamorphosis that naturally evolves from creative cooperation is integral to the process.  Part of the ‘Bally Collective, curated by Swizz Beatz’, this collaboration continues the brand’s commitment to creating a platform to playfully empower artistic license across emerging and established talent.

The exclusive collection will launch in Bally stores worldwide and bally.com in October 2018.

ERIC PIERREJEAN, CEO OF JEC GROUP

Mr. Eric PIERREJEAN, who joined the company in January, has been appointed Chief Executive Officer, succeeding to Mrs. Frédérique MUTEL. He will be in charge of the further development of the company after two decades of growth under Mrs. MUTEL leadership, dedicated to the development and the promotion of the composite materials industry. Before joining JEC Group, Eric PIERREJEAN was Division General Manager at Comexposium from 2011 to 2017. Prior to this, he spent much of his career in sales and marketing positions, spending more than 15 years in the automotive sector (BMW Group, Land Rover) as well as in the sports goods industry (Nike).

ADELINE LARROQUE, EVENTS DIRECTOR FOR EMEA

Mrs. Adeline LARROQUE joins JEC Group as Show Director JEC World and EMEA Events with more than 15 years of Global work experience as she has worked in several countries such as USA, UK, China, India, Qatar and UAE where she has developed a strong skill set in exhibitions and events management. After a successful experience at Reed Exhibitions France and China managing numerous exhibitions in the Aerospace, Material, Security, Maritime, Logistics, Construction and Medical industries, she then worked for Qatar Tourism Authority as Head of Exhibitions driving growth for the Doha Jewellery Show, Qatar Motor Show and Women Fashion exhibitions. Lately, she worked for the Events division of the Daily Mail Group supervising the Abu Dhabi International Petroleum Exhibition and Conference as Event Director.