From the Sector

• Miles Johnson and ISKO’s Creative Room present the new responsible collection.

The second edition of this partnership tells the story of a unique combination of creativity and expertise brought to the table by ISKO’s style and design center, Creative Room Italy, and the innovative designer Miles Johnson, resulting in a collection featuring responsible R-TWO™ fabrics and a selection of sustainable accessories and details.

An act of care for the planet and its people, Light on the Land 2.0 is the new capsule designed by Miles Johnson and ISKO. Former Design Director at Levi Strauss & Co. and Senior Creative Director of Product Design and Development at Patagonia, Inc., Miles joined forces with Creative Room and Iskoteca, ISKO’s Italian style and washing research hubs, to develop a collection that brings responsibility in the fashion industry to the next level.

The project includes 32 unique pieces, each of them realized with seasonless designs and sustainably-minded details. All the fabrics used in the collection were carefully selected from ISKO’s R-TWO™ platform. Using a mixture of reused cotton and recycled fibers, the technique embeds material circularity into the production processes, designing waste out of the system and minimizing impact at scale. Certified to Textile Exchange environmental credentials according to the percentage of materials contained, R-TWO™ ensures better use of raw materials and resource efficiency. ISKO’s Environmental Product Declarations (EPD®s), available for all its +25,000 products, offer a unique opportunity to measure the impact of R-TWO™’s savings in the Lifecycle Assessments (LCAs) framework, where resource savings can be seen in carbon impact, water-use reductions and many other impact KPIs.

Light on the Land 2.0 incorporates responsible design principles such as Cadica’s new and innovative trims, made of vegan apple “leather”, and has been developed using ecoconscious finishing techniques. The collection also features many additional sustainable facets such as efficient low-waste pattern cutting and design, efficient sewing methods, removeable rivets for end-of-life and biodegradable thread which can be removed at high heats.

“When we first started working on this project, we knew it was going to be amazing,” explained Massimo Munari, Manager and Art director Creative Room, ISKO. “To design a collection like this, you need to begin with the right mindset and of course, the right materials. R-TWO was the perfect ingredient, thanks to the re-used and re-cycled content. We then aimed to minimize impact at all stages: incorporating sustainable design ideas, washing processes and trims. We are proud to have created such an inspiring, and sustainable collection, and to bring our collective vision to light.”

Due to the unprecedented challenges of this time, the collection was entirely developed through remote working and creative solutions to ensure the safety and health of all parties involved. To this end, everyone was kept safe thanks to ISKO Vital™+ reusable and eco-friendly face covers, created with organic cotton to cater for comfort and sustainability.

• Monforts customer Kipaş has been selected as the sole denim manufacturing partner in the €6.7 million European Union-funded New Cotton Project, involving the brands adidas and H&M, working in a consortium with suppliers, innovators and research institutes.

Kipaş, based in Kahramanmaraş, Turkey, is currently installing its third Monforts Montex stenter along with a third Monfortex compressive shrinkage system in a combined configuration dedicated to denim production.

This follows the successful installation and commissioning of the second Montex and Monfortex lines at the Kahramanmaraş plant in 2018, which Kipaş Vice Chairman of the Board Ahmet Öksüz said had immediately exceeded expectations.

“We performed a very thorough technical investigation based on the latest Industry 4.0 analysis before the purchase, to determine what we needed, and the Monforts technology met all our requirements,” he said, in an interview with Textilegence magazine. “The Monfortex is equipped with a variety of features not found on classical shrinkage machines and the production can be monitored from beginning to end. It also exceeded our expectations in energy cost savings.”

Kipaş subsequently received a special certificate from Monforts in recognition of its exceptional utilisation of the technology to its full potential.

The latest Montex stenter now being installed at Kipaş is a 12-chamber unit with a working width of 2 metres featuring all of the latest automation features. The Monfortex unit, also with a working width of 2 metres, is in a ‘double rubber’ configuration, comprising two compressive shrinkage units and two felt calenders in line. This allows the heat setting of elastane fibres and the residual shrinkage of the denim to be carried out simultaneously, for a significant increase in production speeds.

“Around 90-95% of denim fabric production now contains elastane fibres and the Monforts system has allowed us to simultaneously increase our production and quality in this respect,” Mr Öksüz said.

Regenerated cotton
For the next three years within the New Cotton Project, Kipaş will manufacture denim fabrics based on the cellulose-based fibres of Infinited Fiber Company of Finland, made from post-consumer textile waste that has been collected, sorted and regenerated.

The patented technology of Infinited, which is leading the consortium of 12 companies, turns cellulose-rich textile waste into fibres that look and feel like cotton.

“We are very excited and proud to lead this project which is breaking new ground when it comes to making circularity in the textile industry a reality,” said Infinited co-founder and CEO Petri Alava. “The enthusiasm and commitment with which the entire consortium has come together to work towards a cleaner, more sustainable future for fashion is truly inspiring.”

Take-back programmes
Adidas and H&M will establish take-back programmes to collect the clothing that is produced, to determine the next phase in their lifecycle. Clothing that can no longer be worn will be returned to Infinited, for regeneration into new fibres, further contributing to a circular economy in which textiles never go to waste, but instead are reused, recycled or turned into new garments.

The aim is to prove that circular, sustainable fashion can be achieved today, and to act as an inspiration and stepping stone to further, even bigger circular initiatives by the industry going forward.

The EU has identified the high potential for circularity within the textile industry, while simultaneously highlighting the urgent need for the development of technologies to produce and design sustainable and circular bio-based materials. Making sustainable products commonplace, reducing waste and leading global efforts on circularity are outlined in the European Commission’s Circular Economy Action Plan.

Fashion brands produce nearly twice as many clothes today as they did 20 years ago and demand is expected to continue growing. At the same time, the equivalent of one garbage truck of textiles is landfilled or burned every second. Most of the textile industry’s environmental problems relate to the raw materials used by the industry – cotton, fossil-based fibres such as polyester, and viscose as the most common man-made cellulosic fibre, are all associated with serious environmental concerns.

• "We only promote products that we like and Kornit is offering a line up of technologically advanced equipment that can take our selected customers into the future of textile print on demand.”
• Responding to market needs for textile print on demand

Kornit Digital (Nasdaq: KRNT), a worldwide market leader in digital textile printing technology, continues to expand its market reach through Grup Transilvae partnership.

Founded in 1993 in Cluj, Grup Transilvae later expanded its reach nationally with a move to Bucharest. It has since developed into a complete solutions and services provider following partnerships with key industry manufacturers such as HP, MGI Digital Graphic Technology, Canon, Esko, Caldera, Efi, X-Rite - Pantone and Fotoba International etc. It has also more recently agree to support Matic, Highcon, Xlam, Sefa, Chemica and PlastGrommet. Now the company is increasingly focusing on the textile industry which is why it is partnering with Kornit.

CEO Bogdan Vasilescu explains: "We started with color management solutions, working on demand for Fogra with digitally printed DMI colors on textiles. We have also worked with Mimaki, Roland, Epson and Vutek on various projects including Eurotex Iasi, Zara and Rofobit in Bucharest. Eager to continue our growth spurt in the textile printing industry, we were looking for a trusted partner and Kornit was the obvious choice.”

"The collaboration with Kornit began officially in September and is a natural progression,” Vasilescu adds. “For a number of years, we have been considering ways to improve our offering by moving into textiles in the same way that we did for sign and display, home decor or packaging. We were just waiting for the right partner. We are always looking to collaborate with market leaders and we wanted to work with Kornit to tap into the potential of the print on demand textile market with an extensive textile printing portfolio.”

Grup Transilvae will represent all Kornit’s textile solutions, including Direct to Garment and Direct to Fabric, particularly for T-shirts, activewear, denim, fashion, beachwear, home textiles and fabrics.

Vasilescu continues: “We are looking forward to showing our existing customers how they can take advantage of the Covid 19 accelerated trends in digital print-on-demand and short-run print jobs. We will signpost how they can expand their application range, grow volumes and experience better ROI.”

Vasilescu concludes: “We only promote products that we like and Kornit is offering a line up of technologically advanced equipment that can take our valued customers into the future of textile print on demand.”

Omer Kulka, CMO at Kornit Digital states: “We are delighted to announce another great partnership with a distributor that is as passionate about our products and the textile printing industry as we are. Grup Transilvae has a long history of successfully entering new markets with leading manufacturers. We look forward to a long and happy partnership.”

Polyester and its applications are omnipresent in our everyday lives. Whether as beverage bottles, film packaging, high-tech sports shirts or safety belts, polyester excels with its excellent mechanical properties and inexpensive production. However, the constantly rising demand requires responsible handling of global resources. For this reason, it is not only ‘virgin polyester’ generated from crude oil that is exclusively the raw material for manufacturing, so too is polyester recycled from post-production and post-consumer waste. Processing production waste also helps cut raw material, disposal and transport costs, hence increasing efficiency.

BB Engineering has developed an innovative solution for the recycling of post-production polyester fibre waste, called VacuFil. Decades of experience in the areas of extrusion, filtration and spinning systems have been bundled into a new, innovative core component – the vacuum filter. It unites gentle large-scale filtration and controlled intrinsic-viscosity build-up for consistently outstanding melt quality. The attached vacuum swiftly and reliably removes volatile contamination and ensures a controlled IV-increase. Comprising an inline viscosity measuring unit connected with the vacuum unit the IV can be controlled continuously and reliably. Hence, producers are able to generate that specific kind of recycled polyester they need for their application.

Made from the smart-tech transformation of cotton linters pre-consumer materials and converted through a traceable and transparent closed loop process, Bemberg™ fiber is participating to some of the most cutting edge design innovations on planet Fashion. Its uniqueness comes from its exceptional quality characteristics as the magnificent touch of the fabric that results soft and smooth like silk, second skin-like, and precious look. Bemberg™ boasts also antistatic and breathable performances and the fiber is also biodegradable and compostable. Proving to be a circular economy oriented ingredient, the fiber is driven by innovation and responsibility together with design.

Bemberg™ is also enlarging its position in the market thanks to its valuable partnerships. It has collaborated with the Italian fabric manufacturer Brunello S.p.A. to create unique collections, to obtain innovative features as high absorption and breathability power that give a natural sensation and freshness. The responsible fiber confirms its international attitude with BemBAZIN™, the innovative fabric that empowers the traditional African Damask fabric used to make vibrant garments.

The Japanese brand has teamed up also with Gianni Crespi Foderami to develop a Bemberg™ lining with outstanding stretch performance woven in its DNA. Bemberg™ Natural Stretch was achieved thanks to a complex way of yarn twisting, weaving and finishing. This collection achieves maximum flexibility, resistance and comfort without the use of elastomers polyesters

Textilien sind untrennbarer Teil des Interieurs, denn sie geben einem Raum Atmosphäre und eine gute Akustik. Doch welcher Stoff ist für welchen Zweck am besten geeignet?

• Schlichte Eleganz: drapilux 150

Minimalistische Rechtecke in dezenten Farben, dadurch zeichnet sich der Bauhaus-Artikel drapilux 150 aus. Gewebt wird der Stoff in der sogenannte Scherlitechnik, durch die die Musterung entsteht. Dabei wird auf einer weißen Kette der farbige Schuss nur partiell eingebunden. Die verbleibenden Bereiche des Schussgarns liegen lose auf dem Gewebe auf. Diese sogenannten flottierenden Fäden werden nach dem Weben abgeschnitten (Schweizer Ausdruck: Scherli). Neben drei Farbstellungen in rauchigen Pastell- und Naturtönen ist drapilux 150 auch als Weiß/Weiß-Kolorit verfügbar. Mit seinem zurückhaltenden Dessin eignet sich dieser Artikel auch für den Einsatz im Krankenhaus.

Der leichte Deko ist Gunta Stölzl gewidmet – der bedeutendsten Künstlerin des Bauhauses. Als einzige Frau erlangte sie am Bauhaus eine Position als Meisterin. Ihr Unterrichtsprogramm konzentrierte sie 1931 auf die Entwicklung funktionaler Textilien und führt damit direkt zur drapilux-Kernkompetenz.

Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, has been recently ranked number 1 in the “industrial chemicals” list published by the Institute of Public & Environmental Affairs (IPE) for driving transparency in their supply chain.

Archroma also entered the Top 50 of companies in IPE’s Green Supply Chain CITI Evaluation, at the 47th position. The evaluation dynamically assesses brands on the environmental management of their supply chains in China.

With a wide array of products used every day, everywhere, the company is committed to operate along the principles of “The Archroma Way to a Sustainable World: Safe, efficient, enhanced, it’s our nature”. The Archroma team is therefore committed to sourcing safe and sustainable raw materials and intermediates from like-minded partners.

Heike van de Kerkhof, CEO of Archroma, recently delivered a message at the IPE 2020 Green Supply Chain Forum online, and commented: “As industry leader, we have the responsibility to keep on addressing the climate challenge, and to do everything we can together to reduce our impact on the environment. This is where the approach of the Institute of Public & Environmental Affairs supports us. They encourage us to challenge our suppliers in terms of safety, health and environment, and to go even beyond our own strict policies and processes.”

The Swiss Technology Award announced the 2020 prizes, and among all the notable finalist innovations of the year, HeiQ was bestowed the highest honor as First Prize Winner for its breakthrough antiviral textile technology HeiQ Viroblock.

Developed in record time and launched after the Swiss authorities announced the lockdown in March 2020, HeiQ Viroblock has had a major impact on the global textile industry and is being unprecedently adopted by mills around the world.

The technology that makes HeiQ Viroblock a unique innovation
What exemplifies HeiQ Viroblock is its ability to turn any fabric antiviral. It’s among the first textile technologies in the world to be proven effective against SARS-CoV-2 (COVID-19). HeiQ Viroblock consists of a combination of HeiQ’s patent-pending vesicle and silver technologies. The two mechanisms of attack result in an over 99.9% destruction of viruses in 5 minutes that is unrivaled in the industry. HeiQ Viroblock is a unique patent-pending formulation of 72% bio-based ingredients, made with 100% cosmetic-grade materials from the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients list. HeiQ Viroblock is also a shining example of Swiss cooperation between academics and the industry. The silver technology was developed at ETHZ (Eidgenössische Technische Hochschule Zürich), the vesicle technology at EPFL (École polytechnique fédérale de Lausanne), and the production was scaled up at FHNW (Fachhochschule Nordwestschweiz).

HeiQ Viroblock has demonstrated unparalleled speed from laboratory to consumer
HeiQ launched the new antiviral textile technology HeiQ Viroblock on March 16, 2020 – two hours after Switzerland declared a state of emergency. This was made possible with the indispensable support of Swiss research Partner FHNW and the EPFL which helped accelerate product validation. The fast scale-up of production was enabled by the FHNW School of Life Sciences with their new Process Technology Center (PTC) by special permit. With its agile operations and global footprint, HeiQ also brought HeiQ Viroblock face masks and other PPE (personal protection equipment) to different corners of the world where are needed. Now, Swiss consumers can also acquire HeiQ Viroblock enhanced face masks online.

Reacting to the news of HeiQ Viroblock winning this year’s Swiss Tech Award, Co-founder and CEO Carlo Centonze says: “I am both amazed and honored that HeiQ has won this award a second time in just ten years, and from among some incredible tech innovation finalists. It confirms our resolve to push the boundaries and push innovations to help the world with its most pressing and imminent problems. This award is recognition for our company and team that have spared no efforts to develop and launch HeiQ Viroblock at such speed and make a valuable contribution to the global pandemic efforts. We remain true to our mission: enhancing the everyday lives of people with smart and efficient textile effects.”

Denim Expert Limited, a denim manufacturing and washing plant of Bangladesh, has recognized as ‘New Champion’ by World Economic Forum. It’s the only apparel and textile entity in the world that received this recognition this year.

The New Champions Awards of World Economic Forum recognize excellence in sustainability, digital disruption and agile business governance. Denim Expert has been selected as ‘Honorable Mention’ in excellence in sustainability category.

The declaration was made by World Economic Forum in an official announcement published on their website on 16 November.

“From their impact on the planet and society to how they can participate in building a better future, the World Economic Forum’s New Champion companies are doing just that – exploring the new business models, emerging technologies and sustainable growth strategies that will be vital in the Fourth Industrial Revolution” was said in the World Economic Forum announcement.

Since the outbreak of the coronavirus pandemic, the worldwide demand for protective masks and apparel has resulted in a record number of new orders in the high double-digit millions of euros at Oerlikon Nonwoven. The meltblown technology from Neumünster is recognized by the market as being one of the technically most efficient methods for producing highly-separating filter media made from plastic fibers.

Protective equipment demands high-end nonwoven products
The rising demand for protective masks and other medical protective equipment since the start of the coronavirus pandemic and the associated global ramping up of production capacities has also resulted in an increase in the demand for nonwovens for the production thereof. Initially, this resulted in bottlenecks in the provision of meltblown filter nonwovens. To this end, there had until this point be very few producers of medical filter nonwovens outside China. Meanwhile, the demand for spunbond systems is also rising. “Due to the structure of our group, we are in the fortunate position to swiftly reallocate and free up our production capacities. This means that we are able to relatively quickly deliver not only meltblown systems, but also spunbond equipment”, explains Dr. Ingo Mählmann, Head of Sales & Marketing at Oerlikon Nonwoven, talking about the positive situation at the company.

The capacities for respiratory masks available in Europe to date are predominantly manufactured on Oerlikon Nonwoven systems. “Our machines and systems for manufacturing manmade fiber and nonwovens solutions enjoy an outstanding reputation throughout the world. Ever more manufacturers in the most diverse countries are hoping to become independent of imports”, comments Dr. Mählmann. The Oerlikon Nonwoven meltblown systems are being delivered to Germany, China, Turkey, United Kingdom, South Korea, Italy, France, North America and – for the very first time – to Australia until well into 2021.

Quality and efficiency in demand
Depending on the purpose of the application, medical PPE (personal protection equipment) should be breathable and comfortable to wear, protect medical staff against viruses, bacteria and other harmful substances and form a barrier against liquids. For these reasons, they are often made of either pure spunbond or of spunbond-meltblown combinations. Here, the meltblown nonwoven core assumes the barrier or filter task, while the spunbond has to retain its shape, while being tear-resistant, abrasion-proof, absorbent, particularly flame-resistant and nevertheless extremely soft on the skin.

All masks are not created equal – thanks to the ecuTEC+
Protection against infections such as coronavirus can only be guaranteed with the right quality.

The nonwovens can be electrostatically-charged in order to further improve the filter performance without additionally increasing breathing resistance. Here, Oerlikon Nonwovenʼs patented ecuTEC+ electro-charging unit excels in terms of its extreme flexibility. Nonwovens manufacturers can freely choose between numerous variation options and set the optimal charging method and intensity for their specific applications. In this way, even the smallest particles are still attracted and reliable separated by a relatively open-pored nonwoven. Nevertheless, mask wearers are still able to easily breathe in and out due to the comparatively loose formation of the fibers. To this end, it comes as no surprise that all meltblown systems currently destined for the production of mask nonwovens are equipped with the ecuTEC+ unit.