From the Sector

Companies get a close-up of new consumer buying journey and explore how they can meet challenges with Lectra’s latest technologies and industry experts

Lectra cements its position as a fashion industry opinion maker by leading a much-awaited discussion on new consumer behavior at its latest fashion event, ‘Winning Over the New Fashion Consumer’ in Bordeaux-Cestas, France.

More than 75 industry insiders and market experts from 14 countries convened at Lectra’s International Advanced Technology and Conference Center (IATC) for two days to examine how the digital age is bringing about major shifts in consumer behavior. Today’s digitally attuned consumers have become co-creators in the production process, changing the fashion landscape entirely.

The keynotes, live demonstrations, and customer testimonials highlighted the importance of process digitization and data analysis for meeting new consumer needs. The event kicked off with two keynote speakers. Peter Jeavons, Managing Director of First Insight Europe, stressed the importance of using data to understand the hyperconnected fashion consumer. Craig Crawford, Strategist and Founder of CrawfordIT, outlined the arising challenges and opportunities from these changes, and urged fashion companies to embrace digital transformation internally by cultivating a conducive environment for it.

Beyond just understanding the new fashion consumer, the event stressed on the importance of leveraging data to deliver customer-centric services and products. Lectra presented their responses to this challenge in the form of two new major solutions, Kubix Link and Fashion on Demand by Lectra.

Sappi wins Avery Dennison Supplier Distinction Award for the second time in a row

In 2019, Sappi was selected for an Avery Dennison Supplier Distinction Award for the second consecutive year. In doing so, the awarding authority honoured the paper manufacturer’s sustainable conduct, its high-quality products and being a real global supplier. While its group headquarters is in Johannesburg, South Africa, Sappi’s global packaging and speciality papers business supports eight Avery Dennison plants worldwide with numerous products from multiple facilities.

The Sappi team was delighted when they heard the results of this year’s Avery Dennison Supplier Distinction Award. Following an award last year, Sappi’s status as a leading supplier was again honoured with this significant award in 2019. “We were recognised for our excellent quality and for being a truly global supplier supporting Avery Dennison’s growth, especially in the USA. And finally, because of our expanded portfolio following the acquisition of Cham Paper Group,” said Thomas Kratochwill, Vice President Sales & Marketing Packaging and Speciality Papers (Sappi Europe).

In unterschiedlichen Ausführungen, von Papier bis zu dickem Filz, dient das Material als Brandschutz in elektronischen Geräten, Sitzpolstern und anderen Anwendungen. GULFENG gibt es als dünnes Papier, gewebt, oder gefilzt.
 
Vom 14. bis 17. Mai 2019 präsentiert der japanische Materialtechnologie-Riese Toray die Funktionstextilien des Unternehmens auf der Techtextil in Frankfurt. Ein Highlight ist dabei das neue Flammschutzgewebe GULFENG, das hervorragende flammhemmende Eigenschaften besitzt und als Flammenbarriere dient. Das Gewebe ist in verschiedenen Ausführungen erhältlich und somit für ein breites Anwendungsspektrum geeignet.

Im Vergleich zu anderen flammhemmenden Materialien, die aus Glasfaser-, m- und p-Aramid- oder Ox-PAN-Filz bestehen, ist GULFENG leichter, dünner und flexibler. Die Papiervariante ist 0,06 mm dick und wiegt 60 g/m² – sie sieht wie normales Papier aus und fühlt sich auch so an. Zusätzlich kann das Material zu einem weichen Stoff gestrickt oder gewoben und zu biegsamen Matten gefilzt werden. Durch diese Vielfalt eigenet sich GULFENG für Batterien ebenso wie für Bettwäsche oder Bussitze.

Trotz der geringen Dicke büßt GULFENG seine flammhemmenden Eigenschaften nicht ein und dient als Flammenbarriere. Ein Feuer kann sich nicht ausbreiten oder umliegende brennbare Materialien entzündet. Um dies zu erreichen kombiniert Toray thermoplastisches Polyphenylensulfid (PPS) mit oxidierten Polyacrylnitrilfasern (OX-PAN). Erwärmt eine Flamme das Material auf 285°C, beginnen die PPS-Fasern zu schmelzen und bilden eine dünne Membran um die Ox-PAN-Fasern. Diese absorbieren Wärme und oxidieren, wodurch eine vollständig geschlossene Barriere gegen die Flammen entsteht. In Flugzeugen und Zügen wird GULFENG als Fammenbarriere in Sitzkissen verwendet.

• essenscia Innovation Award is Belgium’s most prestigious prize for industrial innovation
• UltraBond is a cost-effective solution for fully recyclable, latex-free, sustainable carpets
• Significant reductions in ecological footprint and cost for carpet manufacturers

Beaulieu Fibres International, Europe’s largest producer of polyolefin fibres, was nominated for the 2019 essenscia Innovation Award for its recently introduced UltraBond fibre.

The biannual award is the most prestigious prize for industrial innovation in Belgium. Created by essenscia, the Belgian Federation for Chemistry and Life Sciences industries, it aims to promote innovations in the Belgian industry and encourages companies to invest even more in innovative and sustainable products and applications. During the evaluation of the nominated innovation projects, the jury assesses their link with chemistry, life sciences and materials, their contribution to sustainable development, their intellectual property management strategy as well as their added value for the economy.

Formally introduced in early 2019, UltraBond is a patented polyolefin bonding staple fibre that eliminates the need for latex or other chemical binders to bond nonwovens. It enables carpet manufacturers to create 100% PP needlepunch carpets that meet the same performance requirements as traditional constructions, while also reducing end-of-life environmental impact.

UltraBond helps manufacturers make a significant contribution to the circular economy through the production of 100% recyclable carpets. In addition to making recycled PP available for the plastics production chain and reduced waste generation, their total lack of water use and reduced energy use result in significant environmental advantages and financial savings. There is also a reduction in the VOC level of the carpet. This all leads to a significant reduction in a needlepunch carpet’s ecological footprint to the tune of a 35% reduction in CO2 emissions during the full production process.

For Oerlikon Nonwoven, the IDEA, taking place between March 25 and 28 in Miami Beach, Florida USA, kicked off with the signing of a contract. The customer, a renowned European meltblown specialist, invested in a two-beam, stand-alone meltblown system from the Neumünster-based plant manufacturer in order to meet its strongly increasing demand. In the future, the system will be deployed to manufacture meltblown nonwovens for various application, especially from the filtration and wipes sector. The commercial production launch is scheduled for the first half of 2020. The market for meltblown nonwovens is expanding by an average of 6% per annum.

FONG’S EUROPE, based in Schwäbisch Hall, Germany, will celebrate the 100th anniversary of its flagship THEN brand for advanced dyeing technology with a special reception for customers and agents at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona.

The company, which has been a member of the CHTC FONG’S group since 2004, has its origins in the German city of Chemnitz, where back in 1919 Rudolf Then founded a barrel-making business which soon branched out into piece dyeing machines.

The company’s reputation for innovation began early, with the introduction of ceramic linings for dye baths, which were then made of wood, in order to avoid staining and allow easy cleaning. At the end of the 1920s, Rudolf Then was also quick to recognise the acid-resistant advantages of stainless steel for dyeing vessels.

Relocating to West Germany after World War 2, Rudolf Then ran a number of businesses in Schwäbisch Hall, eventually founding THEN in 1955 with partner Karl Kurz, who later took over the business specialising in dye vats and other textile equipment.

Throughout the 1960s and 70s, the company continued to further improve its technologies, but it was the introduction of the first THEN AIRFLOW system at ITMA 1983 in Milan which significantly boosted the company’s fortunes, representing a milestone in the development of dyeing machines.

Prior to this, the dyeing of just one kilo of fabric required around 150 litres of water and THEN’s AIRFLOW system, invented by engineer Wilhelm Christ and colleagues, drastically reduced the requirement to between just 35-40 litres. Instead of the traditional dye liquor used for hydraulic fabric transport it efficiently distributed much smaller amounts of dye liquor via aerosol. This technology has subsequently been further developed in successive machine models and has made an enormous impact on sustainable dyeing operations.

Now, as FONG’S EUROPE, the company continues to innovate, and at ITMA 2019 is showcasing the THEN SMARTFLOW TSF hydraulic high temperature dyeing machine, designed to achieve the lowest possible energy and water consumption rates available on the market for jet dyeing.

The company has a number of patents pending on the innovative new features of this machine, including the SMARTFLOW’s fabric transport design. This is based on a smart, winchless fabric transport system which eliminates the need for a loading rope, and a circular plaiter with programmable rotation speeds which provides full filling of the drop zone.

Its newly-developed nozzles and reel-less transport, in combination with smart controlled circular plaiting and variable chamber adjustment, provide even fabric treatment without entanglements and the highest loading capacity with the lowest kier volume

“Further developments, including the new THEN AIRFLOW PLUS system with a round design are in the development pipeline and will once again result in further reductions in power consumption without sacrificing performance,” says FONG’s Europe Sales Director Richard Fander. “Similar innovations are being made to our hydraulic long shape machine, the THEN SUPRATEC LTM. The ability to transport fabrics with reduced tension and without the need for a transport winch which is being introduced on all of our recent machines will allow new fabrics to be created and further increase the efficiency of textile finishing.

Fong’s Europe will be at stand D101 in Hall 2 at ITMA 2019.

The EU-funded Project, in which Devan Chemicals is a key partner, held a kick off meeting end of February 2019 at the EU Commission in Brussels, Belgium. The project consortium, led by Belgian R&D centre CENTEXBEL, consists of 17 European partners from across the value chain including design, manufacturing, NGOs, and research and innovation.

The focus of the consortium is on coated and painted textiles and plastic materials which are currently not recyclable. Ambitious plastic recycling targets of 50% have been set by the European Plastics Industry, and to meet these targets, smart solutions to enable the circular use of textile and plastic parts with multi-layer coatings must be considered.

DECOAT has therefore been established to investigate triggerable smart polymer material systems and appropriate recycling processes. The solutions will be based on smart additives (like microcapsules or microwave triggered additives) that will enable the efficient of coatings and other finishes, activated by a specific trigger (heat, humidity, microwave, chemical) to permit recycling.        

Devan’s specific role is in the development of microcapsules that will release its active core on application of a certain trigger (e.g. heat) at the end of life of the article. This active core material may be something that, for example, will promote the detachment of different coating layers (by separating them), opening the possibility for recyclability/re-use of the base materials. Different active core ingredients will be evaluated, and Devan will develop processes for each type of core ingredient and for each type of coating layer/matrix.

The bold aim of the four-year project is to decrease landfill by 75% of coated articles that are presently difficult to recycle, such as clothing, electronic goods and automotive components. A reduction in the carbon footprint by at least 30% for the considered products is aimed for. By enabling the recycling of such materials, DECOAT is expected to generate in the medium term a new market valued at over 150 million Euros in Europe.

ROICA™ discloses five key and influencing brands with unique outfits already available in the market, that demonstrate how ROICA™ is able to deliver and transform basic performant stretch in eco hi-tech valuable innovations interpreted in five, completely different, contemporary lifestyles!

Inspired by the need for style-conscious, sustainable garments that are versatile for every life situation, AEANCE was created as a brand that merges ready-to-wear with technical apparel. The brand`s values are timeless minimalism, substance and understated luxury. Less, but better. AEANCE is committed to creating garments with the least possible impact on the environment and has set up a supply chain focusing on eco-sustainability and ethical responsibility. The Women`s Light Padded Jacket of the look selected for ISPO is the result of a collaboration with the acclaimed industrial designer Konstantin Grcic.

Knowing the transformative power of fitness, DAQUÏNI® was founded in 2012 to help women bridge the gap between how they feel and how they think they look when they are working out. Each DAQUÏNI® item is made in the E.U. from highest quality Oeko-Tex® certified materials. The brand’s first choice in fabrics is SOFILETA (founded in 1911) with its luxurious technical fabrics with ROICA™ V550 premium stretch awarded with Cradle-to-Cradle Innovation Institute’s GOLD LEVEL material health certificate.

The New York based brand Erin Snow creates chemically safe, circularly designed, socially fair luxury performance apparel. The Teri pant is Erin Snow's most innovative and highly anticipated pant to date. Teri is made from the finest bluesign® approved Schoeller 4-way stretch fabric containing ROICA™ V550 premium stretch sustainable fiber. The pant is insulated with PrimaLoft® Gold Luxe and repels water and dirt without PFCs, thanks to Schoeller's ecorepel® Bio finishing while giving maximum freedom of movement.

The SCOTT Racing Team, the Italian Mtb Pro Rider Team born in 1988, selected the high performance for active clothing identifying Rosti, SITIP and ROICA™ as strategic partners to ensure unique and performant biking outfit composed by tights and jacket. Made with the special BEHOT fabric by SITIP, constructed with active performance materials belonging to the ROICA Feel Good™ family, it not only insulates, but generates up to 2 degrees of heat as you workout as certified by CeRism, Outdoor Sport Research Centre at Verona University. Long life stretch, superior shape retention and best breathability thanks to the Blizzard by SITIP fabric that ensures thermal comfort and easy care to the users. A valuable choice that perfectly matches the performances of an experienced team of specialists.

SITA hits the European panorama for the first time at ISPO with ROICA™ few days after the official launch in US and Saudi Arabia on January 31st. Its high-tech debut collection for Spring 2019 provides women with an all-new luxury concept of timeless foundational apparel made in New York balancing concealed performance features and style to meet womens’everyday dynamic lifestyle. The newly-created made in Italy SITATECH™ fabric includes permanent agents that neutralize odor, withstand machine wash, and exhibit superior quality. The intricately designed fabric takes on instant appeal with nanotechnology fibers and ROICA™ CF, a yarn with an active smart odor neutralizer property, then knitted in Italy by Maglificio Ripa.

Since 1931, Bemberg™ is a new material definition for responsible luxury. The one for cool exquisite comfort, whose smart heritage is born in a circular economy.

Made by Asahi Kasei, the company is the sole maker of this one-of-a-kind, matchless, high-tech natural material, with a unique and precious touch and feel.

Starting from September 2018, Asahi Kasei has launched the Bemberg™ brand in Europe, with an openness and positive approach that facilitates a stronger, more focused role in the market while supporting our partner’s strengths too.

Enhancing core values through a more refined product and process in order to support our partner’s mission to materially benefit the whole supply chain with beautiful products and a straight communication. This is the key motivation behind the launch of the Bemberg™ global brand, taking the next steps on a journey that redefines the future of contemporary luxury with this unique fiber.

This is the reason why manufacture is playing a key role in the global role out of the latest Bemberg™ innovations. Pioneering partner mills for apparel textiles featured at the booth include: A-GIRLS, Alberto Bardazzi, DEBS, Ekoten, Euromaglia, Fiveol Textil, Infinity, Ipeker, Jackytex, Lanificio Europa, Matias & Araujo, Sidonios Knitwear, SMI Tessuti, T.B.M. Group, Tessitura Uboldi Luigi, Texteam and Tintex Textiles. Key lining developments are presented by Brunello, Gi Tessil Foderami, Gianni Crespi Foderami Manifattura Pezzetti and Tessitura Marco Pastorelli.

Driven by its natural inclination for the implementation of smart and innovative solutions fully in line with the latest global fashion trends, Iluna Group with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei join the latest edition of the Parisian tradeshow for lingerie, and activewear materials and accessories.

Experts in the production of stretch lace since 1985, ILUNA today represents the largest European producer. Thanks to the effectiveness of their approach and to their solid and continued commitment, Iluna Group has been the very first lace producer to have gained the GRS (Global Recycled Standard) for their transformed products, together with the company certification STeP (Sustainable Textile Production by Oeko –Tex®).
A relevant achievement for the firm that, thanks to the Green Label collection (a peculiar range that features a 360-degree responsible approach) make responsible innovation an asset for production that focuses on smart ingredients as ROICA Eco-Smart™ family, Tencel™ Lyocell and Q-Nova® by Fulgar.

Of major interest is the fact that the Iluna fashion R&D based its strategic choice for the S/S2020 on the extension of Textronic offer, that belongs to Ultralight series, enriched with new multicolor galloons and raschel allovers. The change of the color of thread in the background as well as in the design gives the green to the reinvention of the same article now perceived in a completely different and impactful way.