From the Sector

At Milano Unica, as key inspiring article, ILUNA presented an exclusive and elegant lace long dress, created in collaboration with Valery, starting from an all over textronic ultralight lace with a complex organic design completely made of recycled materials, using ROICA™ Eco-Smart family, a world-first range of responsible made premium stretch yarns, demonstrating, once more, how the two leading innovators continue their close partnership to present the most “advanced” and responsible solutions to the market today.

Nevertheless, for ILUNA smart innovation is not just a project even, at its space at Milano Unica visitors will had the opportunity to discover the new collection and also to experience and touch the latest boundaries of lace smart innovations. This season novelties include:

1. Green Label collection, the Iluna dedicated range featuring a new responsible approach in respect of the planet and people, able to deliver innovation, beauty and quality, at 360°. This season, in addition to the all over, jacquard, double jacquard and mesh offer, the line is also featuring  new stretch Galloon laces fully made with GRS certified recycled  materials, including the stretch thanks to the introduction of the unique ROICA™ sustainable yarn part of the ROICA™ Eco-Smart family. 
2. ILUNA is also proud to introduce a worldwide première: Eco- Smart family made of sustainable yarns allover laces made with NAIA cellulosic fiber by Eastmann combined with ROICA™ premium stretch sustainable yarn   realized on warp knitting jacquard looms. A unique innovation, with an interesting look & feel combined with a special softness!  
3. ILUNA has strategically included in all their stretch laces only ROICA™ Eco-Smart family of sustainable yarns since some time. The company is pleased to introduce the latest version of this yarns that are able to deliver 3 functions in one:  premium stretch, sustainability combined with the ROICA™ Colour Perfect family function offering excellent flawless and world unique colour dimensions, homogeneity.
4. For the salon, another première:  in cooperation with ROICA™ and Cupro by Asahi Kasei, Iluna is pleased to introduce ‘Smart Bucket Bag’ as a  special  limited edition gift. In origin, this was a roomy bag shaped like a bucket taller than it is wide with a rounded bottom. It first came to fashion in the 1900's, from a pouch with a string and a hardened bottom. Federica Annovazzi idea started from the traditional shape, but it went way beyond and imade it contemporary by smart materials and manufacturing. A beautifully crafted ‘double face recipe’ made  combining a luxurious Cupro fabric by Infinity with an Iluna stretch Double face Smart Bucket bag lace designed and produced with ROICA™ Eco-Smart family of sustainable yarns. The bag is manufactured exclusively by Made in Carcere a cooperative of women in rehabilitation, so creating a useful social exchange as well as a responsible and smart one. The Made in Carcere brand was founded in 2007, thanks to Luciana Delle Donne, founder of Officina Creativa, a non-profit social cooperative.
5. ILUNA can also boast its new STeP (Sustainable Textile Production) certification by Oeko-Tex, a certification that clarifies and communicates the company’s sustainable production commitment. In addition to this, all products are Oeko-Tex 100 certified.

ILUNA’s newest digital programs:

• ILUNA has created the new e-shop offering its exclusive materials to smaller companies looking for added values as: creativity, innovation, made in Italy and responsibility. 
• The whole collection is also visible online at its web site, previous registration, and orders can be done directly online always aiming to customers care.

Today ILUNA represents the largest European lace producer, and thanks to its journey toward the most contemporary way to innovate that includes responsibility, has also become a reference point in the international market for a lace offer that is beautiful, innovative and responsible at the same time. An alchemy of design and sustainable innovation, the only eco-fashion line that includes lace and stockings, capable of combining ethics and high quality standards with a fashion image of bright and deep colors. 

Lectra, the technological partner for companies using fabrics and leather, is pleased to announce the appointment of Holger Max-Lang as Managing Director of Lectra Central & Eastern Europe region, Russia. Holger Max-Lang is based in Ismaning, near Munich, Germany.

Central & Eastern Europe and Russia is a strategic region for Lectra, offering strong potential in the Group’s main market sectors thanks to: a robust automotive industry; a dynamic furniture industry, especially in Germany and Poland; and a close connection between fashion brands in Germany, Austria, Switzerland and suppliers in Eastern Europe.

Holger Max-Lang will focus on delivering Lectra’s customer-focused strategy to empower fashion & apparel, automotive and furniture businesses to succeed as they embrace Industry 4.0. Anchored in the digitalization of industrial processes, from design to production, Industry 4.0 is redefining how factories are organized; smart and connected, they are driving the value chain, propelling a new digitalized lifecycle for products. 

“The transformation to Industry 4.0 is in full swing: the Industrial Internet of Things, Software as a Service (SaaS), cloud technology, data analyses and data exploitation have become key,” underlines Daniel Harari, Chairman and Chief Executive Officer, Lectra. “Working for Lectra for over 15 years, Holger has a deep experience and knowledge of Lectra’s DNA, and is in a very strong position to support our customers in the digitalization of their processes.”

“Industry 4.0. started in Germany. Therefore, many companies are keen to adopt its principles in our region. Lectra is very well-positioned to support our customers in their transformation,“ says Holger Max-Lang. “In my role, I am looking forward to a growing dialogue with our customers and prospects, to bring them a full understanding of the expertise we have built - and are building. We will leverage this expertise to boost our customers’ competitiveness and generate higher added-value for their businesses.”

Following marketing and sales positions in the IT and automotive industry sectors, Holger joined Lectra Germany in September 2002 as a salesperson for automotive accounts. He then held diverse sales’ roles in the region, including the position of Sales Manager for all Lectra markets in Central & Eastern Europe region, Russia. Since September 2017 Holger has held the role of Business Development Director, Automotive, with the responsibility to develop the leather cutting activity worldwide.

Lectra brings together partnership schools and industry experts to discuss how changing professions
in fashion are impacting training programs

Lectra, the world leader in integrated technology solutions dedicated to industries using fabrics, leather,
technical textiles and composite materials, recently welcomed partners from the world of
education to the company’s Bordeaux-Cestas campus for its eighth education congress. The
event was dedicated to the mega trends shaping the fashion industry and impacting
professions from design to production.

Over fifty representatives from among the most important fashion schools in Germany, Canada, China,
USA, France, Hong Kong, Italy, The Netherlands, Poland, United Kingdom, Switzerland and Sweden, participated
in this biannual meeting between industry experts and teaching professionals.

Fashion professions are evolving as companies make their first steps towards Industry 4.0, adopting 3D
and rationalizing the lifecycle management for their collections thanks to PLM. Lectra’s congress enabled
schools to discuss the developing role of designers and patternmakers, and the new elements to be
integrated into training programs.

Lectra illustrated future changes through presentations on design, patternmaking, 3D prototyping, and PLM.
“It is fundamental to bring innovation experts in the industry together with fashion schools, because
students will drive the evolution of this industry,” stated Pascal Denizart, Managing Director of the Centre
européen des textiles innovants (CETI).

Working with schools to design courses which meet the needs of fashion companies has always been at
the heart of Lectra’s education program. During the event, the company presented collaborative
experiences between partner schools and fashion brands, such as the competitions organised by Lectra
with Missoni, Balenciaga, and Armani in Italy, as well as Peacebird in China and JC Penney in the United
States.

In the United Kingdom, Lectra collaborated with COS (H&M group) and the Arts University Bournemouth
(AUB) for a competition centred on the design of a collection with zero waste.
“The process was totally digital, from design to the creation of a virtual prototype in 3D. Our students learnt
to optimize each stage of the process. By leveraging the use of Kaledo®, Modaris® and Diamino®, the
collaborative work between AUB, COS and Lectra is exactly the type of project that enormously motivates
our students. Live briefs developed with leading fashion brands and Lectra offer excellent opportunities
which directly inform industry currency and student employability,” explained Penny Norman, a lecturer at
AUB.

The event also shone the spotlight on China and its major role in the evolution of the fashion industry.
Li Min, Vice-Dean of the fashion and design faculty at Donghua university in Shanghai spoke of the event,
organized by Lectra, which brought together major Chinese companies, experts, and representatives from
the biggest schools in China.

“Exchanges on the impact of the Made in China 2025 plan on the fashion industry can better prepare
students for tomorrow’s professions, where digital and automation will occupy a far more central position
than today,” testified Li Min.

"The fashion industry is evolving so fast that sharing insights and best practices with experts and other
fashion schools has become vital to ensure we offer the best learning experience and technology tools to
our students", said Dr. Trevor J. Little, Professor of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management in
the College of Textiles at NC State University.

“Lectra’s eighth education congress confirms the company’s commitment to our partner schools. We
shared our analysis of the market, the digitalization of the eco-system, and how Industry 4.0 principles can
be applied to the fashion industry. We also discussed mass customization and the role of PLM. While these
are key subjects for our customers, many schools are only now approaching them. We are preparing
tomorrow, today: Lectra is supporting our customers, and schools to play an essential role,” concludes
Céline Choussy Bedouet, Chief Marketing and Communications Officer, Lectra.

• HPR is the highest status a plant can achieve for fire risk prevention and protection
• The site Ideal Fibres & Fabrics Comines is the second in the Beaulieu International Group to reach HPR status
• Underlines Group’s commitment to risk prevention at B.I.G. sites & to reinforcing our strong business contingency plan

Wielsbeke, Belgium – Beaulieu Yarns, the global supplier of high-quality polyamide and polypropylene yarns, is pleased to announce the achievement of Highly Protected Risk (HPR) status for its French production site, Ideal Fibres & Fabrics Comines. Awarded by FM Global, HPR designation means a facility meets the highest industry standards for property protection.

FM Global, Beaulieu International Group’s (B.I.G.) industrial property and business interruption insurer for the past two years, offers a unique concept that supports the Group in reducing its exposure to loss and increases its business resilience. A dedicated worldwide team of engineers focuses on providing assistance and protection of its assets, helping the Group to achieve a higher level of risk protection.

The Ideal Fibres & Fabrics Comines site produces high quality yarns for a large variety of application and market segments including the automotive industry. It scored exceptionally well in its FM Global assessment which focused on aspects including fire protection, protection against natural hazard, mechanical breakdown of machinery and also cyber risks.

Its overall risk mark of 76 ranks it within the top 25% of its industry for fire risk prevention and protection.

Commenting on the Award, Emmanuel Colchen, Global Sales Director Yarns within BU Beaulieu Engineered Products, said: “This HPR yarn production site reinforces strongly our supply chain security and demonstrates our engagement towards our customers and partners. Our contingency planning and risk management are essential, well-considered elements within our long-term business strategy to demanding sectors such as Automotive and Commercial & Residential floor covering contracts.”

Ideal Fibres & Fabrics Comines is the second facility in the Group to attain HPR status, and the very first in Europe. Pinnacle Polymers LLC in the USA also achieved the HPR as a chemical plant, which is a rare achievement within the chemical business. Fire risk prevention is part of the Group’s broader risk management activities. B.I.G. is investing in increasing the level of protection at all B.I.G. plants in order to protect its business continuity.

The divisions of B.I.G. are also implementing a number of safety programmes to raise awareness of workplace safety and to maintain strong safety records.

Karena Cancilleri, Vice President BU Beaulieu Engineered Products, commented: “I am proud of Beaulieu Yarns for achieving the highly-regarded FM Global HPR Award and setting an example for the whole Beaulieu International Group. This positive step reflects the strong commitment of the Engineered Products division and the rest of the Group to improving safety and protecting our workplaces and our production facilities.”

Beaulieu Yarns received the HPR Award at a ceremony on November 7, 2017 attended by all staff, and representatives of B.I.G. Management, Beaulieu Yarns Management and FM Global Management.

• CHOMARAT signs a new distribution agreement with VELOX for its range of carbon reinforcements

The international textile group CHOMARAT announced the signing of a distribution agreement with VELOX, a European distributor in the market for composite materials. The partnership agreement covers the distribution of CHOMARAT reinforcements for high-performance (carbon) composites, in France, Italy, and the United Kingdom, as well as the distribution of CHOMARAT’s complete range of carbon and glass reinforcements in Turkey.

Stepping up the distribution of CHOMARAT´s carbion ranges in Europe

This new partnership will enable CHOMARAT to extend its network in France, Italy and the United Kingdom for its carbon fabric and multiaxial ranges, by offering its customers optimum, locally based services in line with the Group’s development strategy for high-performance composites in Europe.

CHOMARAT’s compete glass and carbon range is now distributed in Turkey

One component of the agreement deals with the distribution of CHOMARAT’s complete range of glass and carbon reinforcements in Turkey, where the composite market is booming, in particular in the transportation sector. Relying on VELOX’s strong foothold in the Turkish market, CHOMARAT will build up its flagship ROVICORE™ line, the first glass-fibre-reinforced sandwich reinforcement, which was designed and developed by CHOMARAT for closed-mould processes. “The idea is to step up our glass activities and still offer our customers more flexibility over the entire range of our reinforcements,” explains Vincent CHOLVY, in charge of the Turkish market at CHOMARAT.

VELOX secures its position as an “innovation distributor”

By distributing CHOMARAT’s high-performance composites, Velox will develop its offering in the transportation, sports & leisure and boating sectors. According to Serge GRADYS, Manager of the VELOX Composites Business, “in Europe, the distribution of the CHOMARAT range of carbon multiaxial range with C-WeaveTM and C-PlyTM, gives us a real competitive advantage and enables us to maintain our position as an innovation distributor. The same is true for the carbon and glass ranges distributed in Turkey!”

The Industry of the Future Alliance (AIF) has awarded Lectra with their ‘Showcase for the Industry of the Future’ label for demonstrating the criteria exemplarity, innovation and commitment. This certification is given to companies who have concretely developed a ground-breaking project to organize their production by leveraging the potential of digital.

The AIF bestowed Lectra with this distinction for its competitiveness concerning cost, quality and delivery times, all obtained thanks to a lean approach and reflection around the design of its products. Further, Lectra received the certification for its competitiveness regarding value, achieved thanks to mastering customer use from which new associated services have flowed. Since 2013, Lectra has invested €86 million in R&D, representing 9.4% of its revenues. This Investment has enabled Lectra to undergo a metamorphosis—based on methodological advances and fundamental technologies—increasing recruitment and growing competitiveness in all of its markets and geographical sectors.

With ten years’ experience in the industrial internet of things for cutting and expertise in software Solutions to automate and optimize design and product development, Lectra is in an unrivalled position to Support customers as they enter the ‘industry of the future’ era.

Pressure from certain shareholders to relocate manufacturing to China in 2005, triggered Lectra’s industrial project. Following risk analyses—the cost of transport for the European market, the turnover in qualified labor, uncertainty over patent rights and quality—Lectra decided to keep manufacturing in France. This choice was conditional on: disruptive innovation; upgrading; increased value to customers; and a rise in productivity.

The project was accompanied by a well-structured lean approach and organizational changes, which enabled Lectra to achieve the desired level of excellence in terms of productivity and competitiveness.

Some of the changes that took place thanks to this project are as follows: Growth in industrial performance due to an improvement in working conditions, with teams involved in the lean approach; Production engineers involved in creating awareness around factory constraints for a new offer as early as the design process. This co-design product/process optimizes global costs; Emphasis on product, process and logistics’ modularity with the latest possible integration of options (delayed differentiation). This enables logistics’ constraints to be taken into account as early as the engineering phase. Product modularity allows, for example, machines to be put in containers when they might otherwise require special heavy-goods transport.

Lectra’s factory improved its productivity rate by 18 points in three years, and has since maintained it at 89%. Costs have already reduced by 25% and the quality and level of service has improved. In terms of positioning, Lectra has confirmed its leadership in the high-end segment. Lectra has enriched its offer with end-to-end services and innovative, connected products whose embedded intelligence offers Smart Services, notably for predictive maintenance.

Based in Porto, Portugal, Rodrigo Siza will focus on nurturing new regional collaborations to benefit the needs of Lectra’s customers, and faciliate their success in the Industry 4.0 era. Rodrigo will rely on Lectra’s highly experienced teams located in the region.
“Rodrigo has very effectively established long-term partnerships with our fashion and apparel, automotive and furniture customers in Portugal. He has helped our customers to emerge stronger from the world crisis which heavily impacted them. After 10 successful years as head of Lectra Portgual, Rodrigo is now also in charge of meeting the expectations of our Spanish customers,” stated Daniel Harari, Lectra Chairman and CEO.

Players in the region are witnessing a strong dynamic, notably fashion brands in Spain and fashion and automotive industrialists with heightened added-value in Portugal. With the recent announcement of a new strategy to focus on Industry 4.0, Lectra is in a strong position to support these businesses in the digitalization of their processes.
For industries faced with more demanding consumers and ever-shorter product development and manufacturing cycles, integrating all steps along the extended supply chain, from design to cutting, is now a top priority. This is particularly apparent in Spain and Portugal, two countries positioned, in their own way, at the heart of Europe’s fashion and automotive industries.
Rodrigo started his career at Tradetex, a trading company of textiles for clothing, as a textile designer. From 1991 to 1999, he was an associate of V-Sistemas Informatica, specialized in the development and distribution of technical solutions for the textile industry. In 2000, he joined Lectra Portugal as a design and merchandising manager, and then evolved into the position of international consultant in 2004. He left Lectra in 2005 to take the position of Sales Director of RPB Têxteis e Vestuario, a company that makes clothes, before returning to Lectra in 2007 to take over the management of the Portuguese subsidiary. Rodrigo has a masters in marketing from Minho University and a degree in design and communication from Porto University, both located in Portugal.

In partnership with IPSOS, GINETEX presents the outcomes of its European barometer: "Europeans and textile care labeling" 70% of Europeans follow the textile care instructions featured on the labels and 80% admit that they would not (or would rarely) buy clothes without any labels, While another 84% feel concerned by water and energy savings . GINETEX, the international Association for Textile Care Labeling, called upon the French market research company IPSOS, to evaluate the behavior of European Consumers with regards to textile product labels and care symbols. This study, carried out in December 2016, combines the results of six different countries, gathered from a sample of 6,000 people in Germany, England, France, Italy, the Czech Republic and Sweden.
This IPSOS study reveals that 70% of Europeans follow the textile care instructions represented by the symbols. At a pan-European level, 57% even admit that they follow them 'often' and 13% do so 'always'. These figures illustrate the importance of care instructions in the minds of European consumers.
- 38% state that they follow these instructions in order to avoid washing problems such as shrinking, in the first place
- 31% follow them in order to preserve their clothes and keep them longer, as a second reason Overall, Europeans consider labels as too cumbersome and 62% admit cutting them out: for 74% of them, the labels itch and irritate their skin and for another 55%, they are often too long and uncomfortable. These results can differ from one European country to another.
However, the presence of the label is a real purchasing criterion since 80% of Europeans state that they would never or rarely buy a piece of clothing without a label.

Hexcel Corporation congratulates IRKUT on the successful first flight of the MC-21-300 new generation commercial aircraft, which took off and landed at the Irkutsk Aviation Plant airfield, an affiliate of Irkut Corporation, on Sunday May 28.
The MC-21 benefits from the latest advanced carbon fiber technologies including the HexPly® carbon fiber/epoxy prepreg that Hexcel supplies for composite primary structures including the empennage. Hexcel has worked in partnership with Irkut for more than a decade and supported the technology developments initiated for the MC-21 program.

Thierry Merlot, President – Aerospace, Europe/Middle East/Asia said: “Hexcel is very proud to be associated with this new adventure and landmark within the Russian Aviation History, and we congratulate our customer Irkut and the United Aircraft Corporation (UAC) on their achievement. The MC-21 aircraft employs the latest advanced composites processes and material solutions and Hexcel has made a significant contribution to the development of these technologies.”
The MC-21-300 has capacity for 163 to 211 passengers and targets the largest sector within the commercial aerospace market. The aircraft is expected to begin commercial operations in 2019.

  The new cutting room will expand the German car parts maker’s airbag cutting capacity in Europe. This latest collaboration between Lectra and its longtime customer builds on a mutual relationship of trust reaching back to previous ZF TRW projects in Portugal, Poland, Mexico and China. Having recently devised a worldwide airbag growth strategy, the company turned once more to Lectra to help reinforce the capacity of its European manufacturing base.
Early in 2016, Lectra unveiled the revolutionary FocusQuantum range, leading to certification of the integrated airbag cutting solution by the customer’s cutting room managers across the globe. Later that year, ZF TRW also certified Lectra’s FocusQuantum Suite cutting preparation software. The stringent process carried out by ZF TRW bore out the productivity, performance and quality of the state-of-the-art airbag cutting solution and advanced software system.

“By evaluating the solution in accordance with established practices, we were able to confirm that FocusQuantum will help satisfy the projected output of our newest facility,” notes Victor Seoane, head of Global Manufacturing Engineering for Inflatable Restraint Systems, ZF TRW. "We were impressed by the innovation that Lectra’s FocusQuantum offers, enabling us to significantly reduce our cutting cost per bag."
“With this new collaboration, Lectra demonstrates yet again the added value built into the integrated design of FocusQuantum,” states Céline Choussy Bedouet, Chief Marketing and Communications Officer, Lectra. "The acquisition of two FocusQuantum will enable ZF TRW to meet short-term productivity objectives while also laying the foundation for future growth.”