From the Sector

Kelheim Fibres, a leading manufacturer of viscose speciality fibres, has joined Recycling Atelier Augsburg. Recycling Atelier Augsburg is a unique centre for research and development in the field of textile recycling. It is located at the Institut für Textiltechnik Augsburg an affiliated institute of Augsburg University of Applied Sciences. The two institutions founded the Recycling Atelier in June 2022 together with twelve partners from the German textile industry.

In the Recycling Atelier, the focus is on the triad of technical and ecological sense as well as economic benefit. In this way, the partners of the Recycling Atelier are standing up against fast fashion, outsourced corporate responsibility and a general decline in raw material quality, which often fuels downcycling - the low-quality reuse - of materials.

As a model factory, the Recycling Atelier Augsburg combines the most important processes of textile recycling and offers holistic and comprehensive research along the value chain," explains Georg Stegschuster, head of the Recycling Atelier Augsburg. The scientists research on all process steps of textile recycling: from material analysis to sorting, preparation and textile processing to sustainable product design. Comprehensive data collection and the use of artificial intelligence as well as innovative materials play a central role.

Kelheim Fibres is a producer of high-quality viscose fibres, which consist of cellulose, the main component of the renewable raw material wood, and are used worldwide for products in areas such as hygiene, textiles, and technical applications.

"In New Business Development as well as Fibre and Application Development, we follow the Open Innovation concept - the cooperation with the Recycling Atelier offers us an ideal platform for this. Here we work with partners to advance sustainability and performance," explains Maik Thiel, project manager at Kelheim Fibres.

Recycled cotton fibres are often very short or of uneven length, which makes further processing of 100 % recycled material a challenge. Adding speciality fibres from Kelheim Fibres should enable the production of high-quality new products, such as nonwovens. In the future, the fibres provided by Kelheim Fibres will also be made from recycled pulp.

On 22 February 2023, Renewcell's CEO Patrik Lundström sold 364,705 shares in Renewcell at a price of 85 SEK per share via his wholly owned company PEEL AB. The sale was made to enable PEEL AB to repay loans taken out mainly to purchase shares in Renewcell.

In compliance with applicable rules, the transaction has been reported to the Swedish Financial Supervisory Authority’s PDMR Transactions Register. Following the transaction, Patrik Lundström holds, privately and through a company, 449,504 shares and 730,055 options in Renewcell.

Dibella engagiert sich seit Jahren in verschiedenen Projekten für das Recycling von Objekttextilien. Beim jüngsten Projekt, das die Möglichkeiten einer Faser-Kreislaufführung auslotete, erwies sich die Identifizierung der Alttextilien als größte Barriere. Das Unternehmen will diese Hürde nun nehmen: Im Rahmen des von der Deutschen Bundesstiftung Umwelt (DBU) geförderten Projekts „KICKup“ (KI-gestützte, chemische Cellulose-Kreisläufe) soll die Sortierung von Geweben aus Baumwolle und Polyester automatisiert und damit die Grundlage für ein reibungsloses Faserrecycling geschaffen werden.

In Textilservice-Unternehmen werden große Mengen gleichartiger Bett-, Tisch- und Frottierwäsche eingesetzt, die nach Ablauf der Nutzungsphase als Alttextilien anfallen. Diese bieten aufgrund der hohen Volumina, der einheitlichen Zusammensetzung und einer begrenzten Zahl von Sammelstellen optimale Voraussetzungen für ein zukunftsfähiges Faser-zu-Faser-Recyclingsystem. In der Praxis scheitert ein solches Konzept jedoch an einer mangelnden Unterscheidbarkeit der Materialien. Zu diesem Ergebnis kam ein Pilotprojekt¹, an dem Dibella beteiligt war.

Effektive Sortierung von Alttextilien verbessert die Zirkularität
„Im textilen Mietservice werden Gewebe in unterschiedlichen Baumwoll-Polyester-Mischungen, aus reiner Baumwolle und sogar aus 100% Polyester verwendet. Für jedes dieser Materialien gibt es spezielle Recycling-Technologien. Die Zuordnung zum geeigneten Prozess hängt allerdings wesentlich von der Sortierung der Ware ab: Je besser die Qualitäten unterschieden werden, desto größer sind die Effekte für die Kreislaufführung. Bisher fehlt jedoch ein geeignetes, automatisiertes Sortiersystem für eine qualitative Erfassung gängiger Objekttextilien. Dazu haben wir gemeinsam mit ausgesuchten Partnern das Projekt Aufbau KI-gestützter geschlossener Kreisläufe für B2B-Textilien aus Baumwoll-Polyester-Mischungen auf der Basis chemischen Upcyclings ins Leben gerufen. Dank einer Förderung der DBU können wir dieses in den kommenden zwei Jahren entwickeln“, fasst Ralf Hellmann, Geschäftsführer von Dibella zusammen.

Hohe Transparenz mit moderner Technik
Das Projekt ist Teil einer aktuellen DBU-Förderinitiative für textile Kreisläufe, die zu ressourcenschonenden Produkt-, Material- und Stoffkreisläufen beiträgt. Das Hauptziel des von der Deutschen Bundesstiftung Umwelt fachlich und finanziell mit 397.266 Euro geförderten Vorhabens ist die Entwicklung eine Anlage, die mittels Infrarot-Technologie und künstlicher Intelligenz eine möglichst sortenreine Sortierung der aus dem Mietservice stammenden Warenströme vornehmen kann. Die Projektpartner fokussieren sich dabei im Wesentlichen auf reine Baumwolltextilien sowie auf Mischgewebe aus Polyester und Baumwolle bzw. Regeneratfasern. Sie sollen zukünftig mit hoher Genauigkeit identifiziert und dem ihnen zugeordneten chemischen oder mechanischen Recycling-Prozess zugeführt werden können.

Zukunftsweisendes Projekt
„Je sortenreiner Materialien zurückgewonnen werden, desto besser lassen sie sich wiederverwerten. Dieser für eine Circular Economy zentrale Faktor spielt auch bei Textilien eine Rolle“, sagt Dr. Volker Berding, Leiter des DBU-Referats Ressourcenmanagement. Das Vorhaben von Dibella hat nach seinen Worten daher Potenzial, den Rohstoffeinsatz zu verringern und eine höherwertige Nutzung der Alttextilien zu verbessern.

¹Digitale Technologien als Enabler eine ressourceneffizienten kreislauffähigen B2B Textilwirtschaft (Ditex)

The Woolmark Company, the Italian wool fabric mill Vitale Barberis Canonico (VBC) and Haelixa took part in a trial to trace Australian wool fibers up to the final fabric.

Funded by Australian woolgrowers, The Woolmark Company (TWC) is an enterprise that focuses on investments that enhance the profitability, international competitiveness, and sustainability of Australian wool. In their operations, TWC seeks to be transparent and accountable. In line with this strategy, traceability is necessary to ensure transparency and maintain the credibility of TWC.

In December 2021, Haelixa marked wool fibers with their DNA tracing solution. There are infinite DNA markers that could be produced and used to indicate a specific origin, supply chain, material, or particular collection. In this case, a single DNA has been applied to greasy wool and a second DNA marker to scoured wool. The first DNA identifies the origin of the Australian wool, while the second determines the manufacturer where the wool has been further processed; at Vitale Barberis Canonico mill.

Samples were collected from various production stages, where a qPCR test was used to detect each specific DNA marker. Haelixa uses a “Key-Lock” system to detect a marker; one needs to know the particular DNA to screen for, ensuring that the system is tamper-proof. The DNA markers stay safely embedded in the product, enabling traceability of greasy and scoured wool up to greige fabric and finished fabric, respectively.

With increasing cost pressure and competition in the wool fabric market, traceability is becoming a prerequisite to proving authenticity and origin. TWC and Vitale Barberis Canonico support the culture of sustainability and collaboration.

Freudenberg Performance Materials (Freudenberg) will present surfacing veils and core materials for lightweight fiber reinforced plastic (FRP) parts at JEC in Paris, France. Freudenberg will also be showcasing Enka® Solutions flow media and spacers for efficient vacuum infusion, resin transfer and foam injection molding processes for applications in the composites industry, etc. at the international composites show.
 
Freudenberg’s solutions for the FRP industry include a variety of glass, PAN and PET nonwovens, as well as core materials for the production of lightweight fiber reinforced plastic parts. These products are designed for anti-corrosion coatings in piping and tank construction, smooth UV resistant surfaces for facade panels, and other applications for a diverse range of end products. Products made from fiber reinforced plastics must be equipped with surfacing veils to provide abrasion resistance, corrosion resistance, smooth surfaces and mechanical strength. Freudenberg offers high-tech nonwovens that can meet these challenges.
 
Enka® Solutions products are characterized by their typical 3D entangled polymeric filament structures. Thanks to this structure, they are exceptionally suitable as flow media and spacers when producing composite materials.

The The German Federation of Reinforced Plastics (AVK) is looking for the best innovations in the field of fibre-reinforced plastics (FRP) / composites covering the following categories:

• Innovative products/components or applications
• Innovative procedures/processes
• Research and science

One goal of the AVK Innovation Award is to promote new products/components and applications made from fibre-reinforced plastics (FRP) and to promote new processes and methods for the manufacturing of FRP products. A further award is given to universities, colleges and institutes for outstanding work in science and research. In each of the categories special emphasis will be placed on the issue of sustainability.

Another goal is to give prominence to the innovations and also to the companies/institutions behind them, thus publicising their performance throughout the industry. The submissions will be evaluated by a jury of experts from the composites sector. The award ceremony will be held during the JEC Forum DACH event in Salzburg, Austria (24-25 October 2023).

The submission deadline for the application documents is 14^th April 2023.
Further details and assessment criteria can be found online.

International experts will discuss topics along the entire cellulose fibre value chain at the upcoming Cellulose Fibres Conference, 8–9 March 2023 in Cologne and online.

How can the cellulose fibre industry contribute to the sustainability and circularity of the textile sector? How can fibre markets achieve a circular economy for their materials? What are the most sustainable technologies on the market? And, are there innovative, interesting raw materials and technologies worth exploring to meet the challenges of the coming years?

These and other questions in the field of cellulose fibres will be discussed within the program of the Cellulose Fibres Conference 2023. The two-day event will provide insights into the latest developments of the cellulose fibre sector and introduce innovative start-ups, technologies as well as novel fibre applications. A special focus will be set on the textile sector and its awaited paradigm shift towards circular economy in the following years.

Seven sessions will provide in depth views from fibre production to recycling, policy and market trends:

• Strategies, Policy Framework of Textiles and Market Trends,
• Circular Economy and Recyclability of Fibres,
• Alternative Feedstocks and Supply Chains,
• Innovation Award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2023″,
• Sustainability and Environmental Impacts,
• Ionic Liquids and New Technologies for Pulps, Fibres and Yarns,
• New Technologies and Applications beyond Textiles.

The full conference program is available here.

For the third time, nova-Institute awards the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year” award in the frame of the “Cellulose Fibres Conference 2023” (8-9 March 2023). The conference advisory board nominated six remarkable products, including cellulose fibres from textile waste, banana production waste and bacterial pulp, a novel technology for producing lyocell yarns and a hygiene product. The innovations will be put to the vote of the conference audience on the first day of the event, with the awards ceremony taking place in the evening. The innovation award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2023” is sponsored by GIG Karasek (AT).

Here are the six nominees
Vybrana – The new generation banana fibre – GenCrest Bioproducts (India)
Vybrana is a Gencrest’s Sustainable Cellulosic Fibre upcycled from agrowaste. Raw fibres are extracted from the Banana Pseudo stem at the end of the plant lifecycle. The biomass waste is then treated by the Gencrest patented Fiberzyme technology. Here, cocktail enzyme formulations remove the high lignin content and other impurities and help fibre fibrillation. The company's proprietary cottonisation process provides fine, spinnable cellulose staple fibres suitable for blending with other staple fibres and can be spun on any conventional spinning systems giving yarns sustainable apparel. Vybrana is produced without the use of heavy chemicals and minimized water consumption and in a waste-free process where balance biomass is converted to bio stimulants Agrosatva and Bio Fertilizers & organic manure.

HeiQ AeoniQ™ – technology for more sustainability of textiles – HeiQ (Austria)
HeiQ AeoniQ™ is the disruptive technology and key initiative from HeiQ with the potential to change the sustainability of textiles. It is the first climate-positive continuous cellulose filament yarn, made in a proprietary manufacturing process and the first to reproduce the properties of polyester and nylon yarns in a cellulosic, biodegradable, and endlessly recyclable fibre.
HeiQ AeoniQ™ can be manufactured from different cellulosic raw materials such as pre- and post-consumer textile waste, biotech cellulose, and non-valorized agricultural waste, such as ground coffee waste or banana peels. It naturally degrades after only 12 weeks in the soil. Each ton of HeiQ AeoniQ™ saves 5 tons of CO2 emissions. The first garments made with this innovative cellulosic filament fiber were commercially launched in January 2023.

TENCEL™ LUXE – lyocell filament yarn – Lenzing (Austria)
TENCEL™ LUXE is LENZING’s new versatile lyocell yarn that offers an urgently needed sustainable filament solution for the textile and fashion industry. A possible botanical alternative for silk, long-staple cotton, and petrol-based synthetic filaments, is derived from wood grown in renewable, sustainably managed forests, and produced in an environmentally sound, closed-loop process that recycles water and reuses more than 99 % of organic solvent. Certified by The Vegan Society, it is suitable for a wide range of applications and fabric developments, from finer high fashion propositions to denim constructions, seamless and activewear innovations, and even agricultural and technical solutions.

Nullarbor™ – Nanollose & Birla Cellulose (Australia/India)
In 2020, Nanollose & Birla Cellulose started a journey to develop and commercialize tree-free lyocell from bacterial cellulose, called Nullarbor™. The name derives from the Latin “nulla arbor” which means “no trees”. Initial lab research at both ends led to a joint patent application with the patent “production of high-tenacity lyocell fibres made from bacterial cellulose”.
Nullarbor is significantly stronger than lyocell made from wood-based pulp; even adding small amounts of bacterial cellulose to wood pulp increases the fibre toughness. In 2022, the first pilot batch of 260kg was produced with 20 % bacterial pulp share. Several high-quality fabrics and garments were produced with this fibre. The collaboration between Nanollose & Birla Cellulose now focuses on increasing the production scale and amount of bacterial pulp in the fibre.

Circulose® – makes fashion circular – Renewcell (Sweden)
Circulose® made by Renewcell is a branded dissolving pulp made from 100 % textile waste, like worn-out clothes and production scraps. It provides a unique material for fashion that is 100 % recycled, recyclable, biodegradable, and of virgin-equivalent quality. It is used by fibre producers to make staple fibre or filaments like viscose, lyocell, modal, acetate or other types of man-made cellulosic fibres. In 2022, Renewcell, opened the world’s first textile-to-textile chemical recycling plant in Sundsvall, Sweden – Renewcell 1. The plant will eventually reach 120,000 tons of annual capacity.

Sparkle sustainable sanitary pads – Sparkle Innovations (United States)
Globally, around 300 billion period products are discarded every year, resulting in millions of tons of non-biodegradable waste. Since most conventional sanitary pads contain up to 90 % plastics, they do not biodegrade for around 600 years. Sparkle has designed sustainable, plastic-free, biodegradable and compostable Sparkle sanitary pads. From product to packaging, they are made up of around 90 % cellulose-based materials with top sheet, absorbent core, release paper, wrapping paper and packaging made of cellulose-based fibres. Whether Sparkle pads end up in a compost pit, are incinerated or end up in a landfill, they are a more sustainable alternative compared to conventional pads that contain large amounts of plastics, complex petro-chemical based ingredients and artificial fragrances. When tested according to ISO 14855-1 by a leading independent lab in Europe, Sparkle pads reached over 90 % absolute biodegradation within 90 days in commercial composting conditions.

The viscose fibre manufacturer Kelheim Fibres - exclusively using FSC® or PEFCTM certified pulps exclusively from sustainably managed sources - welcomes the preliminary political agreement reached between the European Parliament and the Council on an EU regulation on deforestation-free supply chains. The new rules, adopted at the end of 2022, are intended to prevent goods that cause forest degradation or deforestation from being placed on the EU market.

As one of the largest economies worldwide, the EU is a major consumer of wood-based raw materials. Therefore, the new law can significantly contribute to reducing global deforestation and forest degradation as well as protecting threatened forest areas.

“Wood is an incredibly versatile and valuable renewable resource and the basis for countless products. Our viscose fibres are just one example – they offer an environmentally friendly alternative to synthetic materials in various applications and are thus a promising material for the future. Of course, this only applies if the production of our raw materials does not take place at the expense of our earth's natural forest resources. These forests are a bastion of biodiversity and climate protection for our entire planet and must be protected at all costs. No one can escape this responsibility," says Craig Barker, CEO at Kelheim Fibres.

Carbios and Novozymes announced an exclusive long-term global strategic partnership. This major agreement ensures the long-term production and supply of Carbios’ proprietary PET-degrading enzymes at an industrial scale for the world’s first biological PET-recycling plant due to start production in 2025 in Longlaville (France), as well as Carbios’ future licensee customers.
 
Carbios and Novozymes have had a partnership since 2019 to develop enzyme-based solutions and address  the sustainability challenge of plastic pollution, both within PET-recycling[1] and PLA-biodegradation[2].  Building on the current Joint Development Agreement (JDA), under the new agreement, Carbios and Novozymes will extend their collaboration to develop, optimize and produce enzymes that will subsequently be supplied by Novozymes to all licensees of Carbios’ technology.  The new agreement grants both parties exclusivity in the field of the partnership.
 
The strategic partnership supports the large-scale industrial deployment of Carbios’ patented PET-recycling technology starting with Carbios’ future industrial reference unit in Longlaville (France), which will be the world’s first biological PET-recycling plant. Construction will begin later this year, and both building and operating permits having been filed with local authorities.  Production at the plant is set to start in 2025 and the processing capacity will be 50,000 tonnes of waste per year.