From the Sector

• Parade Example for physical Trade Shows

A whole year without physical trade fairs, long months without personal exchange: last week the physical International Textile Trade Show MUNICH FABRIC START and the International Denim Trade Show BLUEZONE took place for the textile industry in Munich. The team at Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions GmbH is bringing a bit of normality back to the industry, but also to event management. Thanks to detailed, Covid-19 compliant fair formats, the organisers show that trade fairs are possible and can be successfully implemented with the appropriate measures.

More than 600 international suppliers presented their new collections and developments for Autumn.Winter 22/23 in around 1000 collections in the Fabrics, Additionals, Design Studios, Sourcing, ReSource and Sustainable Innovations areas at MUNICH FABRIC START as well as denim, sportswear and KEYHOUSE at BLUEZONE.

A winning fusion of BLUEZONE & KEYHOUSE well-attended events

Under the motto "BACK TO THE FUTURE", BLUEZONE offered a way back to the tactile experience of textiles and the reunion of the denim community. In addition to international denim weavers and manufacturers, visitors to the Zenith Hall also saw a qualitative selection of KEYHOUSE exhibitors who presented their futuristic innovations for the fashion industry.

Positive visitor & exhibitor echo despite Covid-19 measures

In keeping with the season's title "RISE", the visitors were greeted by inspiring, colourful trend forums with unique highlights for Autumn.Winter 22/23 collection development. In the halls, the industry was able to discover a trade show with the well-known and proven pre-pandemic quality with manufacturers and suppliers presenting in all 8 areas. Non-European suppliers were represented by agencies and offered well-attended show in show concepts.

The newly formed ReSOURCE x SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS Area also drew in the crowds. In a modern atmosphere, information was shared on sourcing sustainable textiles and additionals as well as innovative concepts. Another highlight was the launch of FABRIC.iD, the innovative process for the complete digitisation of fabrics to greater serve the industry's digital future.

Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, announced that it has appointed Thomas Bucher as its new Chief Financial Officer (CFO) effective 1 October 2021, replacing Roland Waibel who will retire.

Thomas Bucher has a long career in Finance, having held CFO roles with leading industrial and services companies as well as senior Finance roles in the chemical sector. He joins Archroma from Alpiq Holding AG, where he has been Group CFO and a Member of the Executive Management Board since 2015. Prior to Alpiq, Thomas Bucher was Group CFO at Gategroup for 6 years, where he supported the company’s listing and subsequent strategic repositioning, and before that he held a number of senior Finance roles at Ciba Specialty Chemicals over more than 12 years.

Chief Executive Officer Heike van de Kerkhof comments: “We are very happy to have Thomas Bucher join us, and add his financial expertise to support our agenda towards confirming Archroma as an undisputed leader in innovative and sustainable specialty chemicals, supported by solid and profitable growth.”

She adds: “I want to thank Roland Waibel for his many contributions since the beginning of Archroma in 2013. He has played an important role helping the company deliver on our growth whilst building a strong finance expert team and expertise at Archroma.”

Dr.-Ing. Larissa Born, wissenschaftliche Mitarbeiterin am Institut für Textil- und Fasertechnologien (ITFT), wurde am 02. Juli 2021 im Rahmen der Abschlussfeier der Masterabsolvent:innen der Maschinenbau-Fakultäten an der Universität Stuttgart mit dem Manfred Hirschvogel Preis 2021 ausgezeichnet. Der mit 5.000 Euro dotierte Preis wird jährlich an allen TU9-Universitäten für die beste Dissertation aus dem Bereich Maschinenbau verliehen. Die prämierte Doktorarbeit trägt den Titel „Grundlagen für die Auslegung und Gestaltung eines Hybridmaterials für außen liegende, adaptive Fassadenbauteile aus Faserverbundkunststoff“. Dr.-Ing. Marc Hirschvogel, Kuratoriumsvorsitzender der Frank Hirschvogel Stiftung, lobte bei der Preisverleihung insbesondere den innovativen Ansatz und die wissenschaftliche Tiefe der Arbeit.

Mit ihrer Doktorarbeit stellt Larissa Born eine grundlegende Methodik zur Entwicklung adaptiver Faserverbundkunststoffe zur Verfügung und wandte diese beispielhaft auf ein Hybridmaterial aus glasfaserverstärktem Kunststoff, Elastomer und thermoplastischem Polyurethan an. Zwischen steifen Bauteilbereichen werden lokal nachgiebige Bereiche (Gelenke) durch Anpassung des Materialaufbaus integriert. Um die adaptiven Material-eigenschaften analysieren zu können, entwickelte sie darüber hinaus ein neues Prüf-verfahren, das die Biegung eines Prüfkörpers um bis zu 180° ermöglicht. Das neuartige Hybridmaterial lässt eine Dauerbelastung von 5.000 Biegezyklen um 180° mit lediglich marginalem Festigkeitsverlust zu. Ergebnis der durchgeführten Analysen ist eine Datenbasis inklusive Regressionsmodell auf deren Grundlage sich die mechanischen Eigenschaften eines Gelenk-Bauteils einstellen lassen.

Das Hybridmaterial hat bereits in verschiedenen Demonstratoren Anwendung gefunden, die mit dem AVK Innovation Award (Flectofold) und dem Materialica Gold Award (Flexafold) ausgezeichnet wurden. „Mit ihrer Arbeit ist es Larissa Born gelungen, eine völlig neue, materialtechnische Grundlage für die Entwicklung adaptiver Faserverbundkunststoffe zu schaffen.“, lobte Prof. Dr.-Ing. Götz T. Gresser, Doktorvater und Institutsleiter des ITFT, die Arbeit anlässlich der Preisverleihung. „Die Anwendung ist nicht beschränkt auf den architek-tonischen Kontext, sondern kann ebenso auf andere Bereiche wie beispielsweise Automobil und Luftfahrt übertragen werden. So können mechanische, wartungsintensive Gelenke durch verschleißarme, nachgiebige Mechanismen ersetzt werden.“

Nach der abgeschlossenen Promotion wird Larissa Born als stellvertretende Institutsleiterin des ITFT ihre Forschungsarbeiten am Institut fortsetzen. Gemeinsam mit Prof. Gresser gilt es, das bisherige Forschungsfeld zu vertiefen und neue Forschungsthemen im Bereich Faserverbund zu eröffnen.

• Experienced leader will work with customers to develop controls obsolescence strategies

Paper Converting Machine Company (PCMC)—a division of Barry-Wehmiller and a leading supplier of high-performance converting machinery for the tissue, nonwovens, package-printing and bagconverting industries worldwide—is pleased to announce that Steven Charapata has accepted the position of Aftermarket Sales Executive, specializing in controls obsolescence upgrades.

In his new role, Charapata will work with customers to develop a controls obsolescence strategy by identifying and prioritizing equipment, developing a plan, and proposing solutions that can provide a phased approach to manage risk, downtime and capital expenditures. Charapata has more than 20 years of experience updating obsolete controls systems on PCMC machines and other converting equipment. He joins PCMC from Zepnick Solutions Inc., where he was a controls obsolescence Project Leader.

“Steve’s expertise and extensive controls experience will be assets for our customers,” said Joe Schuh, Aftermarket Sales Director. “Complete controls upgrades can be overwhelming. Steve will work with our customers to create a comprehensive, effective and well thought-out plan that will minimize their risks and downtime. He brings a unique understanding of controls systems, hardware and software design, and capital equipment. We’re thrilled to have him join our team.”

• Digital Pioneer Awards ceremony at the digitalCHURCH
• ITA Academy GmbH was honoured to receive the Digital Pioneer Award at the Digital Summit Event in Aachen on June 09, 2021.

The Digital Pioneer Award is given to companies that drive digitalisation with digital business models, processes or digital products. ITA Academy GmbH was honoured with the Digital Capability Center (DCC) Aachen and its support of companies in their digital transformation.

Using the latest didactic methods, sophisticated solution concepts and state-of-the-art technologies, the DCC Aachen supports people in keeping up with the digital future and becoming pioneers in digital transformation. In order to make innovative solutions such as AI and digital assistance systems tangible, the ITA Academy founded the Digital Capability Center (DCC) Aachen together with McKinsey & Company in 2017. The DCC is a model factory 4.0 in which digital applications are demonstrated and taught using the example of a realistic factory. The DCC thus offers a learning environment for companies in which participants are supported in building up competencies in the field of digital transformation in the form of practical work-shops.

The digital pioneers are to be publicised as best-practice examples in order to sensitize regional SMEs to the topic of digitisation. Around the award of the digital pioneers, the digitalHUB Aachen e.V. rolls out effective marketing activities. The pioneers achieve high visibility through the various planned campaigns and advertising opportunities.

Lectra’s Shareholders’ Meeting appointed Jean Marie (“John”) Canan as a new Director, for a period of four years. Jean Marie Canan becomes a member of Lectra’s Audit Committee, Compensation Committee and Strategic Committee.

A Canadian national, at 64, Jean Marie Canan is currently Lead Independent Director and Chairman of the Audit Committee of REV Group, an American company listed on the NYSE; Director and Chairman of the Audit Committee of Acasti Pharma, a Canadian company listed on the NASDAQ and Director of the Angkor Hospital for Children, a leading non-profit pediatric hospital in Cambodia.

Jean Marie Canan, graduated from McGill University in Montreal, Canada and is a Canadian Certified Public Accountant (CPA), began his career at PricewaterhouseCoopers (PwC) in 1978, starting in their Montreal office, and then two years in their Hong Kong office. From 1990 to 2014, he held many ever-increasing positions of responsibility at Merck & Co, Inc. (“Merck”). These included senior roles in finance, strategy development, business development and operations. He was part of a small team that led the acquisition of Schering-Plough by Merck. He also provided operational oversight for most of the Merck group’s joint ventures, including DuPont-Merck, Johnson and Johnson-Merck, Astra-Merck, and Schering-Plough-Merck. Merck’s Executive Committee selected Jean Marie as one of the five senior leaders charged with defining Merck's new strategy in 2006.

• EMMA SCALCON is the winner of the first edition of the IMAGINING SUSTAINABLE FASHION AWARD, an international competition for communication in sustainable fashion.

The award was established in October 2020 by Connecting Cultures and C.L.A.S.S. with the aim of creating new visual imagery and innovative communication models in sustainable fashion. Stylists, photographers, designers, illustrators, artists and other creatives, invited to rethink how to communicate the new generation of values of an ethical and sustainable fashion system, joined the open and international call.

The name of the winner of the IMAGINING SUSTAINABLE FASHION competition was announced during a webinar on March 30th at 4pm led by Giusy Bettoni, CEO of C.L.A.S.S. Eco Hub; Anna Detheridge, President of Connecting  Cultures; Lucy Orta, Chair, Art & the Environment, University of the Arts London; and Dio Kurazawa, Founding Partner of The Bear Scouts.

Born in Padua, Italy, 22 years old, and a student in her second year in Textile & Fashion Design at IAAD - Istituto d'Arte Applicata e Design, Emma Scalcon won the IMAGINING SUSTAINABLE FASHION competition with her project TAKE A WALK ON THE GREEN SIDE, designing communications crafted with strong and impactful images and simple but detailed wording intended for younger consumers to inform them about sustainable fashion issues.

Scalcon ranked first among the finalists selected by a high profile jury composed of:
·   Anna Detheridge, Founder and President, Connecting Cultures
·   Giusy Bettoni, CEO and Founder, C.L.A.S.S.
·   Rita Airaghi, Director, Gianfranco Ferré Foundation
·   Paola Arosio, Head of New Brands & Sustainability Projects, Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (The National Chamber for Italian Fashion)
·   Jeanine Ballone, Managing Director, Fashion 4 Development
·   Evie Evangelou, Founder and President, Fashion 4 Development
·   Chiara Luisi, Sustainability Projects Coordinator, Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (The National Chamber for Italian Fashion)
·   Sara Kozlowski, Director of Education and Sustainable Strategies, Council of Fashion Designers of America  
·   Dio Kurazawa, Socio fondatore, The Bear Scouts
·   Renata Molho, Founding Partner, The Bear Scouts
·   Lucy Orta, Chair, Art & the Environment, University of the Arts London
·   Stefania Ricci, Director, Museo Salvatore Ferragamo

Emma Scalcon was awarded the €3,000 prize, made possible by the Main Sponsor ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei and by the other sponsors of the project: ECOSENSOR™ by Asahi Kasei - a latest generation fabric collection that promotes responsible innovation with advanced high-tech performance, C.L.A.S.S., and the Greek smart cotton SUPREME GREEN COTTON® by Varvaressos.
 
“It is time to be pioneers in communication and for this we have supported the Imagining Sustainable Fashion Award,” commented Takaaki Kondo, global marketing department manager for ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei, the Main Sponsor of the award. ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei is a high quality stretch fibre with an innovative range of intelligent functions to satisfy every modern wardrobe need for sports, underwear, and fashion. “We believe that together with responsible innovation, communication is the key to bring sustainability to the next level: to inspire, educate, inform and allow both professionals and consumers to make the right choices.”

“The competition is an opportunity to rethink how to communicate the new and different values of an ethical and sustainable fashion system,” explained Anna Detheridge. “I am quite impressed with the results of the competition — the diversity of forms that we received show both an interesting change in sensibility and a practical approach to communicating these values. There is less visual rhetoric and reliance on compelling images and more investment in basic information and a greater variety of narratives.

It is a great pleasure to see the energies from a wealth of young creatives, small businesses, and designers from all over the world with cross-disciplinary interests and a diversity of talents who are ushering in a new culture of design. My heartiest congratulations go to Emma Scalcon".

“I completely agree with Anna's comments on the quality of the work submitted by participants in the competition and together we have renewed our intention to continue IMAGINING SUSTAINABLE FASHION into 2021 with a new edition of the award,” stated Giusy Bettoni. “After this initial experience, we find ourselves even more motivated to explore some of the themes that emerged during the selection process, in particular those regarding the ethics of intellectual and cultural property, a topical issue in an industry like fashion. For this reason, we are already working together on organizing a webinar on this topic with outside specialists, including legal experts.”

 21 Grams, the group comprised of Veronica De Nigris, Serena Paone e Immacolata Esposito, won a special contest open to the public among the finalists selected by the jury, receiving the most votes from Instagram followers on C.L.A.S.S.’s corporate Instagram profile. The media partner for the initiative is Renoon, the leading search tool and data hub for sustainable fashion, a rising start-up of the year, aggregating +190 brands offering sustainable options to consumers. 

• Waiver of dividend
• Expansion of Board of Directors

The shareholders of Autoneum Holding Ltd approved all proposals of the Board of Directors at today’s Annual General Meeting and agreed to forgo dividend payments. Liane Hirner and Oliver Streuli were newly elected to the Board of Directors. Based on Art. 27 of the Covid-19 Ordinance 3, the Board of Directors of Autoneum Holding Ltd decided to hold the 2021 Annual General Meeting without physical attendance by the shareholders. For this reason, the Company had asked them in advance to exercise their rights exclusively via the Independent Proxy. He represented 63.5% of a total of 4 672 363 shares.

The shareholders approved the Annual Report, the Annual Financial Statements and the Consolidated Financial Statements 2020. In view of the net loss in the 2020 financial year, the Board of Directors proposed forgoing dividend payments, which was approved by a large majority of the shareholders. Hans-Peter Schwald, Chairman of the Board of Directors, said: “2020 was extremely challenging for the entire automobile industry and also for Autoneum. The pandemic-related drop in revenue has impacted profitability. Despite the net loss, Autoneum reached important financial improvements in 2020. We expect to return to profitability in 2021 and our aim to distribute at least 30% of the net profit attributable to Autoneum shareholders as dividends remains unchanged. The Board of Directors, the Group Executive Board and the Company as a whole are committed fully to ensuring that Autoneum continues to make significant operational and financial improvements.”

Chairman Hans-Peter Schwald and the other members of the Board of Directors, Rainer Schmückle, Norbert Indlekofer, Michael Pieper, This E. Schneider and Ferdinand Stutz were confirmed in office. Newly elected to the Board of Directors were Liane Hirner and Oliver Streuli.

With Liane Hirner and Oliver Streuli and the resignation of Peter Spuhler, who did not stand for reelection in order to be able to focus on managing Stadler Rail, the Board of Directors of Autoneum Holding Ltd has expanded from seven to eight members. Hans-Peter Schwald explained: “The expertise of Liane Hirner and Oliver Streuli in the areas of finance and corporate management is of great value to Autoneum. As the Board of Directors, we look forward to this enhancement to the Board and to working with both of them.”

Peter Spuhler has been an important driving force since the Company became independent, he played a major role in shaping Autoneum thanks to his entrepreneurial expertise and showed great commitment to the Company. The Board of Directors thanks him sincerely and wishes him continued success.

This E. Schneider, Hans-Peter Schwald and Ferdinand Stutz were re-elected to the Compensation Committee. Oliver Streuli was elected as a new member of this committee. In addition, the shareholders of Autoneum Holding Ltd granted discharge to all members of the Board of Directors and the Group Executive Board with a large majority.

The consultative vote on the 2020 remuneration report was approved by 83.4%. Due to the severe impact of the coronavirus pandemic on the Group’s business development, the members of the Board of Directors renounced half of their compensation for the 2020 financial year and, in order to  align their remuneration with shareholder interests, decided to receive it entirely in Autoneum shares. In addition, a waiver of salary amounting to 10% of the basic salary for a period of three months was agreed upon with the senior management as part of a reduction of personnel costs.

The proposals for the remuneration of the Board of Directors and the Group Executive Board for the 2022 financial year as well as the other proposals were also approved by a large majority.

• ITM of TU Dresden – your research partner in the field of virtual product development at ISPO Munich
• ISPO Munich Online 2021 – the world´s leading sports business platform from February 1st to 5th 2021

The Chair of Assembly Technology for Textile Products of ITM presents itself for the first time at ISPO Munich Online 2021 – showcasing its expertise in the field of virtual product development. Its know-how in the determination of material parameters, digital data processing, and data transfer will be presented as well as its competencies in 3D/4D body shape recording via scanning, data animation for the 3D product development for functional clothing, and simulation for wear comfort/usage visualization. The Chair of Assembly Technology for Textile Products of ITM has manifested its leading global position in the virtual product development sector by successfully completing a variety of national and international interdisciplinary research projects.

Researchers of the Chair of Assembly Technology for Textile Products have been actively involved in the preparation and digital representation of material samples for the ISPO Textrends Forum. Thus, the material parameters of the ISPO Textrends Award textiles were determined for 3D fit simulations in Vidya (Assyst/Vizoo), automatically analyzed, and digitally processed by the specially developed "Material Analyzer" software. This software in addition to other state-of-the-art CAE infrastructure, such as the recently installed 4D Scanner Move4D, are essential for the further establishment and promotion of its leading position in the field of digitalization and virtual product development for garments for high-tech applications.

The researchers involved eagerly await future collaborations in this promising field of research. This pilot project presented at ISPO 2021 was coordinated by the company FOURSOURCE Group GmbH, thus enabling the characterization and 3D visualization of the award-winning materials that are presented to all visitors at ISPO 2021.

• DushaGreya is a well-known brand from talented Moscow-based designer, Natalia Dushagreya, who puts her all into her unique creations.

Combining her outstanding creativity with cutting-edge digital printing technology, Natalia has been delighting women with eye-catching, comfortable clothes, which boast unparalleled individuality and vivacity for several years. “The quality of digital prints surpasses that of traditional fabrics, both in the variety of colour compositions and in the contrast and clarity when printing small details or complex geometric elements. Digital technology makes it possible to achieve exceptionally smooth colour transitions, which is almost unattainable when using analogue printing methods. As a designer, I make sure to fully leverage the advantages of digital printing when designing and producing my collection”, says Natalia.

By the time the DushaGreya brand begun, Natalia and her like-minded associate and father, Alexander Kordovatov, already had experience in the field of sublimation printing and knew that printing on fabric for subsequent tailoring would be carried out using this technology. However, no third-party performers could be found that would meet the quality and deadline requirements of the brand, so they decided to purchase new equipment and start printing at their own site. 

Alexander says. “We also found out that Smart-T (Mimaki's distributor in Russia), the supplier of this equipment in Moscow, is highly rated by the industry community and customers due to its professional expertise, first-line service support, and highly qualified engineers.” At the end of 2019, Smart-T installed the highly anticipated Mimaki Tx300P-1800 direct textile printer at the DushaGreya facility. Today it prints fabrics for dresses, skirts, T-shirts, fleeces, jumpers, hoodies, trench coats, and other midwear.

"Mimaki Tx300P-1800 is the only printer in the Mimaki line that allows us to print on natural fabrics without pre-processing,” Alexander comments. “This gives us the ability to produce short, original print runs at no extra cost, which is vital in achieving our goals. The TP400 pigment inks used in this printer have an expanded colour gamut, so the prints are always bright and saturated.”