From the Sector

Growth, digitalisation and re-commerce – the forthcoming INNATEX (the international trade fair for sustainable textiles) is devoted to highly topical themes. From 20 to 22 January 2024 at the Messecenter Hofheim Rhein-Main near Frankfurt, over 200 exhibitors will be meeting up with retailers, experts and journalists. The motto for the winter trade fair is GROW, representing the call for sustainable, social and commercial growth that will not be possible without the green fashion movement.

Optimistic expectations despite the challenges
According to Alexander Hitzel, INNATEX Project Manager, and the organisers, MUVEO GmbH, various new trends are opening up that might, if exploited strategically, unlock new business areas. These range from ‘quiet luxury’, travel, internationalism and focused storytelling to services for specific target groups. On the Monday, members of the expert panel will be discussing re-commerce with the Hessen Retail Federation in the Community Lounge.

From storytelling to digital tools – the INNATEX themes
“Second-hand is in fashion,” says Julia Frings of IFH Köln. “Sales of used and recycled products have been on an upward trend for some years now and with the rising importance of sustainability, their relevance will continue to grow. There is great potential in this area for the trade to reach new target groups and expand the range on offer. To be successful, though, it is essential to have a concept tailored to the needs of consumers.”

Alongside Julia Frings of IFH Köln, other Federation panellists will include Steffen Riegel of Hessnatur. The first Lounge Talk at the start of INNATEX will deal with Strategies for Sensible Growth, borrowing from the motto for the fair. This topic will be followed by Fair Wages in the Global South, Storytelling as a Strategy, and Digital Trends.

Brand portfolio and partners of INNATEX
The collaboration with the Hessen Retail Federation, like that with Fashion Changers and Greenstyle Munich, has already proved its worth at previous fairs, as a way of adding variety to a well balanced fair programme. The new collaborative partners include AMD Academy of Fashion and Design (AMD) in Wiesbaden, the Fashion Campus 2030 Initiative and the Enterprise Europe Network (EEN, a network promoting internationalisation among smaller and medium-sized businesses).

The brand portfolio includes fashion for all generations, tastes and occasions. Labels exhibiting for the first time include businesses such as Fuza Wool from Denmark with its high quality traditional knitwear, and the hemp-based accessories of 8000Kicks from Portugal. The DESIGN DISCOVERIES comprise Anfisa Roumelidi, C/OVER and Consci.

The Dutch company Knitwear Lab helps visions become reality. The creative think tank offers capacities in the areas of R&D, design, knitwear development and production of prototypes and small quantities and has thus implemented a wide range of projects in recent years. The objects range from medical products and high-tech sportswear to smart textiles with integrated sensors. Sustainability activities are also part of the repertoire, such as the production of yarns from recycled waste.

Knitwear Lab operates at two locations for its diverse tasks: Almere in the Netherlandsis available for development work. In Istanbul, there is a branch for production. Both Knitwear Lab sites each have five STOLL flat knitting machines, including models from the modern ADF range. Prototypes are produced in Almere and there is small-scale production. The production plant in Istanbul specializes in the manufacture of high-quality knitwear in small quantities. STOLL is also involved in the creative processes. For the industrial development of knitwear, Knitwear Lab offers Virtual Knitting, a revolutionary method that combines virtual and physical elements of pattern development and knitwear production to reduce waste and pre-production steps. Customers can use Virtual Knitting to create realistic, producible collections, simplify their design iteration processes and take advantage of the wide range of real-life colorways. The basis for this is comprehensive knitwear expertise, the latest 3D software and the CREATE PLUS patterning software, which was developed by STOLL together with KM.ON.

"The 3D visualization of CREATE simplifies communication with the customer considerably. We use this function every day," says Annika Klaas, Senior Knitwear Programmer. She personally appreciates the uncomplicated grading and exchange of stitch dimensions and the much faster and more efficient work with Dimensioned Shapes that this makes possible. This helps her in her day-to-day work. "We often have requests to realize the same product in different yarns, which now works much faster," says the programmer. Further simplifications would include minor optimizations in terms of the efficiency and user-friendliness of programming and additional import and export options for shapes. Discussions on implementation are already underway.

Happy New Year 2024! Here's to a year full of innovation and success in the textile and apparel industry.

The Textination team sincerely wishes you a great start: may 2024 be full of health, joy and energy for you.

There are undoubtedly 365 days of exciting encounters, developments, innovations and new trends ahead in our shared world of the textile and apparel industry. We would like to join you on this journey and document the many facets of our industry.

We are convinced that the new year will be just as fascinating and inspiring for our users as the best textile products and designs that our industry has to offer. We look forward to accompanying you through the coming 12 months with the latest news, in-depth analyses and exclusive insights.

Thank you for your continued support and interest in Textination.

Together we will tell textile tomorrow!

Ines Chucholowius
- Managing Director -

Leveraging insights from Wealth in Waste, Fashion for Good released a toolkit designed to revalorise textile waste in India.

"The Sorting for Circularity India toolkit is a milestone in our journey towards a waste-free world. We have mapped the textile waste landscape, unpacking the huge potential, as well as the roadblocks and commercial opportunities in India’s textile waste industry. We are excited to move beyond rhetoric with this powerful coalition of partners and translate our findings into a roadmap for concrete actions", said Katrin Ley, Managing Director, Fashion for Good.

In 2021, Fashion for Good launched the Sorting for Circularity India Project to organise the Indian textile waste market in a three-phase approach so as to streamline, strengthen and foster the Indian textile waste market to drive the transition to a more circular economy that recaptures value to its maximum potential.

The project brought together various industry players including Fashion for Good partners adidas, Levi Strauss & Co., PVH Corp., Target, Arvind Limited, Birla Cellulose, and Welspun India, as well as Fashion for Good innovators Reverse Resources, PICVISA, and Matoha; H&M, Primark, and TESCO also joined as external partners. The project is supported through catalytic funding provided by Laudes Foundation and IDH, and knowledge support from Canopy and Circle Economy Foundation.

Drawing upon the invaluable insights gained throughout the project, Fashion for Good unveils a toolkit designed to harness the untapped potential of textile waste in India. Together, these resources provide valuable insights, assessments, and practical guidance to advance recycling in India's textile industry.

On December 7th and 8th, Bangladesh Apparel Exchange (BAE) in partnership with Fashion for Good, facilitated the “Chemical Recycling Technologies: Manufacturing Markets Gateway”, in Bangladesh. Fashion for Good, the Amsterdam based global platform for innovation, along with two disruptive technology start-ups focused on textile-to-textile chemical recycling, Circ and Infinited Fiber Company, were the key stakeholders in this initiative.

The two-day visit leveraged Bangladesh's status as a major garment production hub, exploring the potential of chemical recycling technologies to enhance environmental sustainability. Emphasizing the importance of circularity, the event aimed to spread awareness about current disruptive innovations that could transform the industry's approach to waste and resource management, setting an example for future sustainable practices. It focuses on integrating these technologies within the local manufacturing landscape, securing feedstock partnerships, and developing a value chain for recycled apparel materials.

Denim Asia Limited, Knit Asia Limited, Progress Apparels Limited, Ananta BD, Reverse Resources, and the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) played pivotal roles in this initiative. Knit Asia Ltd, notably acclaimed for their commitment to sustainable practices, along with Denim Asia, associated with the sustainable brand Noize Jeans, showcased their commitment to sustainable manufacturing processes.
Progress Apparels Limited, a ready-made garment producer and part of PDS Limited demonstrated its advanced sustainable production facilities. Reverse Resources and the BGMEA hosted an intimate “Meet and Greet Networking Session”, to boost awareness about the technologies in the industry.

Mr. Mostafiz Uddin, Founder and CEO of Bangladesh Apparel Exchange, emphasized the significance of this event for the wider Bangladeshi textile industry, " Bangladesh has the biggest manufacturing sector in South Asia and this tour marks a critical step towards a circular fashion ecosystem, also how can the fashion industry become more sustainable in Bangladesh. It's not just an event; it's part of a larger movement to incorporate innovative recycling, Sustainable Fashion technologies and establish global partnerships for a sustainable fashion industry."

Featuring interactive sessions, factory visits, and knowledge sharing, this initiative offered a platform for fostering collaborations between manufacturers and technology innovators.

Bangladesh Apparel Exchange and Fashion for Good are optimistic about a future where Bangladesh leads in sustainable and circular apparel manufacturing.

An EU-wide enforcement project of the ECHA Forum found excessive levels of hazardous chemicals, such as lead and phthalates, in products that are sold to consumers. In total 18 % of the inspected products breached the EU laws.

The national enforcement authorities in 26 EU countries checked over 2 400 products, most of them intended for consumers, and found more than 400 of them breaching the EU’s chemicals laws.

The most common product types breaching the laws were:

• Electrical devices such as electrical toys, chargers, cables, headphones. 52 % of these products were found non-compliant, mostly due to lead found in solders, phthalates in soft plastic parts, or cadmium in circuit boards.
• Sports equipment like yoga mats, bicycle gloves, balls or rubber handles of sport equipment. 18 % of these products were found to be non-compliant mostly due to SCCPs and phthalates in soft plastic and PAH in rubber.
• Toys like bathing/aquatic toys, dolls, costumes, play mats, plastic figures, fidget toys, outdoor toys, slime and childcare articles. 16 % of non-electric toys were found to be non-compliant, mostly due to phthalates found in soft plastic parts, but also other restricted substances such as PAHs, nickel, boron or nitrosamines.
• Fashion products such as bags, jewellery, belts, shoes and clothes. 15 % of these products were found non-compliant due to the phthalates, lead and cadmium they contained.

In cases where non-compliant products were found, inspectors have taken enforcement measures, with most of them resulting in the withdrawal of such products from the market.

The non-compliance rate was higher in products which originated from outside the European Economic Area (EEA) or whose origin was not known.

adidas launches the iconic three-stripes brand on Roblox, a global, immersive platform for communication and connection. The experience kicks off with pop-up stores, carrying officially licensed digital clothing and bespoke outfits for the platform (UGC). These digital wearables and accessories will begin appearing across a range of Roblox experiences, fusing physical and virtual realms to bring adidas’ famous designs to a new generation of digital trendsetters and innovators. Roblox users can now dress up their avatars with some of adidas most iconic pieces such as the firebird tracksuits. All items will be available on the Roblox Marketplace, ensuring accessibility and convenience for Roblox users.

As part of the diverse range of UGC collections immediately on offer, adidas has joined forces with Roblox creator Rush Bogin (Rush X) to craft a range of limited-edition UGC that will be available on a first-come-first-served basis. Following the initial release, additional designs for both adidas and adidas x Rush X collaboration products will be introduced, with new drops scheduled weekly throughout December. The adidas x Rush X collection will be available alongside a wide range of iconic looks that will be brought to new life from the brand’s existing and upcoming collections.

Self-expression, creativity, and user experience are at the heart of this of adidas entry into Roblox. adidas has created a range of apparel that embodies the playful, imaginative, and visually bold spirit of Roblox, while staying true to adidas’ contemporary and performance-driven character. The brand’s venture into the digital realm will also create connections with new audiences, while offering long-standing adidas fans the chance to collect and style official UGC on Roblox, through new avatar customization options.

Millions of Roblox users now have the chance to discover the first adidas pop-up shops in some of their favorite experiences, with more stores being regularly introduced in the following weeks. Users can explore the first of these pop-up shops in the following experiences: Princess Dress Up Obby, Cotton Obby!, Seaboard City, Theme Park HeideLand, Noob Train, Dream Island, and Ultimate Ragdoll Playground.

Stocking an array of UGC apparel and accessories inspired by the brand’s SS24 physical collection, there is something to fit each users’ tastes and love for the three-stripes brand. Exemplifying the bold, stylish, and creative aesthetic adidas is celebrated for, the product range includes designs that echo adidas’ physical-world apparel, as well as eclectic, offbeat merchandise crafted specifically with Roblox’s exciting virtual environment in mind. The adidas packs will be refreshed and updated on a regular basis, with new UGC added each week.

In a world where water-repellent textiles play an important role in various industries, Pulcra Chemicals has joined forces with its subsidiary, Devan Chemicals, to introduce DEVAN REPEL. The first product, DEVAN REPEL ONE, is a durable water repellent for Polyester and blends. The development of DEVAN REPEL ONE is a joint to Devan and Pulcra's dedication to innovation and sustainability.

The solution offers a range of benefits:

• Superior Performance: The technology offers outstanding water repellency performance, ensuring that textiles remain dry. Whether it's rain and outdoor wear, outdoor furnishing, shower curtains or multiple technical textiles, the new solution can handle it, making it a strong choice for industries where water resistance is paramount.
• Flexibility: The versatility of this technology can be applied to a wide range of materials, with especially good results on polyester and its blends, offering flexibility for various applications across industries.
• Enhanced Sustainability: This technology is free from perfluorinated compounds (PFCs), and free from isocyanates.
• Longevity: Products treated with this water repellency technology are protecting from the elements for a longer lifespan.

Performance, particularly on effect durability, can be boosted to meet different requirements with new DEVAN EXTENDER GEN3. This extender is free of Isocyanate, Butanone-oxime and 2-dimethylpyrazole.

Archroma is again partnering with ISPO Academy to inspire promising young design talents in a four-day Masterclass held alongside ISPO Munich 2023 to explore this year’s theme, “CIRCULARITY – Create | Adapt | Revive.”

ISPO Munich is a leading trade fair for the sports industry. It is expecting to welcome more than 50,000 visitors and over 2,000 exhibitors to the Trade Fair Center Messe München from 28-30 November.

Conceived as a bridge between education and industry, the ISPO Academy Masterclass gathers top students from design and fashion schools to collaborate on new sportswear concepts. The aim is to encourage multidisciplinary thinking and future-oriented approaches. The event includes support from industry innovators, including Archroma’s Color Management business, and culminates in a public presentation in which the Masterclass participants present the workshop results to the ISPO audience on November 29.

Sponsoring the Masterclass for the fifth time, Archroma will equip the teams with The Color Atlas by Archroma® to enable them to use a library of 5,760 colors for cotton and polyester fibers to develop their concepts in compliance with leading international eco-standards. The Color Atlas will help the students to both explore new perspectives at the design stage and prepare their presentations with colors that accurately communicate their vision.

RUDOLF HUB1922 makes a move in response to the escalating demand for genuinely sustainable technologies, particularly from forward-thinking segments within the textile and apparel industry. In a showcase at Denim by Premiere Vision Milan, RUDOLF HUB1922 presents a pioneering range of textile chemistry that embodies true evolution.

This chemistry marks a milestone in addressing the pressing need for sustainable solutions. By harnessing raw materials derived from organic waste, plastic waste, and renewable feedstock, RUDOLF's latest textile innovations stand poised to transform the industry, promising a substantial reduction in its environmental footprint.

Alberto De Conti, Head of RUDOLF HUB1922, emphasizes the radical nature of evolutionary textile chemistry, stating, "RUDOLF's approach tackles the challenge of waste generation head-on by transforming waste materials into valuable resources". The diversion of waste and renewable feedstock away from landfills and incinerators to fuel textile chemical production is a game-changer, that diminishes the industry's reliance on non-renewable resources and endorses a circular economy model.

The successful integration of chemicals derived from organic and plastic waste, as well as renewable feedstocks, necessitates effective communication and education. Herein lies the significance of fostering collaborative efforts within the industry. De Conti underscores this point, stating, "Collaboration among scientists, fashion designers, and manufacturers is paramount. It propels a collective shift towards sustainable practices, making eco-friendly fashion the standard and minimizing the industry's environmental impact".