From the Sector

Technological progress often results from close collaboration, and industries that rely on continual improvement stand to benefit from the return to in-person business. Cinte Techtextil China’s first edition since eased pandemic measures is set to reflect a 27.9% increase in exhibitor numbers, with a rejuvenated international contingent further supplemented by the return of the European Zone. Taking place from 19 – 21 September across 40,000 sqm at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre, the platform is expected to welcome buyers from across Asia, Europe, and beyond. Pre-registrations have doubled compared to the previous edition, and international buyers account for over 20% of the total.

The new zone, Marine Textile Zone, will be comprised of multiple Chinese green marine and nautical rope netting exhibitors, while also hosting the Technology Exchange Forum, and the awards ceremony of the Top 10 Suppliers in the China Rope Net Industry. Prominent exhibitors in this zone include Ropenet Group, Hunan Xinhai, and Zhejiang Four Brothers Rope.

Other domestic exhibitors, such as Shanghai Shenda Kebao New Materials, SIJIA New Material (Shanghai), Zhejiang Hailide New Material, and Zhejiang Jinda New Materials, will showcase products for applications in outdoor advertising, tents, boats, vehicles, environmental engineering, and much more.

Supplementing the fairground’s wide variety of domestic suppliers will be a much-increased showing of international exhibitors, with many to be found within hall E1’s European Zone. Several global industry leaders are featured in their categories below:

Nonwovens equipment

• Autefa Solutions, Germany: solutions provider for nonwovens lines and machines for carded-crosslapped needlepunching lines, spunlace lines and thermobonding lines.
• Dilo, Germany: in addition to offering general services, Dilo supplies opening and blending equipment, carding and airlay machines, and crosslapping and needling machines.
• Groz-Beckert, Germany: provider of industrial machine needles, precision parts and fine tools, as well as systems and services for the production and joining of textile fabrics.
• Reifenhäuser Reicofil, Germany: provider of innovative technologies and components for plastics extrusion, producing blown films, cast films, sheets as well as nonwovens.

Weaving equipment

• Itema, Italy: provider of advanced weaving machines, spare parts, and integrated services, specifically for rapier, air jet and projectile weft insertion technologies.
• Lindauer DORNIER, Germany: the company manufactures weaving machines, film stretching lines, and composite systems, also offering technical support and spare parts supply.
• Picanol, Belgium: producer and servicer of high-tech air jet and rapier weaving machines, with around 2,600 weaving mills utilising their systems worldwide.

Coating and lamination

• BRÜCKNER Textile Technologies, Germany: manufacturer of machines and lines for the coating and finishing of apparel fabric, technical textiles, nonwovens, glass fabrics and floor coverings.
• ROWA Lack, Germany: developer of high-quality materials and product solutions for the polymer industry, with applications including automotive, electrical engineering, construction, technical textiles, and medical technology.
• Stahl, the Netherlands: the Dutch company provides high quality coatings, dyes and process chemicals for leather, flexible coated substrates, textiles, films and foils, paper, and related products.

Fibre

• Monosuisse, Switzerland: with production sites in Switzerland, Poland, Romania, Mexico, and Germany, Monosuisse manufactures various precise, high-quality polymer monofilaments from 19µm to 3.00 mm in diameter.
• Perlon, Germany: specialised in the manufacture of synthetic filaments in diverse application areas, including paper machine clothing, dental care, and advanced technical textiles for agriculture, 3D printing, sports and leisure, home, and more.

Meanwhile, first-time exhibitors include Rökona (Germany), showcasing RE:SPACE, their range of recycled technical textiles; Testex AG (Switzerland), the official OEKO-TEX® representative in multiple countries including China; Hohenstein (Germany), the renowned testing laboratory and research institute; and zwissTEX (Germany), the knitted fabrics and lamination specialists. In addition, the returning Taiwan Pavilion is set to feature the debut of Shinih Enterprise Co Ltd (Taiwan China).

Beyond the innovation displayed at the booths, the fair’s programme is set to welcome global experts from various technical textile and nonwoven sub-sectors to offer specific insights and unveil innovations. Highlighted events include:

The 11th China International Nonwovens Conference
14 sessions cover topics such as the quality control of medical supplies; green development in technology and applications in the nonwovens industry; and the development and application of flashspun nonwovens in China.

Marine textiles and rope netting events
Events specific to this zone include the Top 10 Suppliers in the China Rope Net Industry; Conference on Textile Applications for Marine Engineering and Fisheries; and the China Nonwovens & Industrial Textiles Association (CNITA) Rope Net Branch Council Meeting

"Nonwovens, Creating a Better Life” Innovation Showcase
Product display area showcasing around 100 nonwovens products with applications in five areas: medical and health, quality of life, human habitat, sustainable development, and innovative design.

Advanced Technical Textiles Industry Chain Synergistic Innovation Development Forum
Includes presentations from multiple key players in the technical textile industry, including Mr Steven Liu, Commercial Manager of Polymer Additives Business of Sanitized (China) Ltd.

Spinnova has decided to evaluate its existing strategy to prioritise areas that in the short- to medium-term deliver the fastest time to positive cashflow generation and that create the most value for the company’s stakeholders.
 

The company expects to conclude the assessment of its strategy in the coming months, after which the results will be presented in more detail including key actions and any changes to medium- and long-term business targets. Financial guidance for full year 2023 is unchanged.

Spinnova’s unique sustainable technology is a key differentiator. To recognize the value of its technology offering, the company has decided to review opportunities to expand the licensing of its technology to new customers. In the future, Spinnova sees great potential in developing circular raw materials such as textile waste and agricultural waste, as well as recycled SPINNOVA® fibre. Initial tests show that refining these raw materials into micro fibrillated cellulose (MFC) may be more efficient than refining other raw materials Spinnova has worked with. The company has received significant interest from customers wanting to build plants that convert multiple circular raw materials into SPINNOVA® fibre.

Together with Suzano, Spinnova is gathering the learnings from the first Woodspin plant to support the decision making for the next Woodspin factory investment. At the same time Spinnova continues to further develop the technology concept to reduce capital expenditure per tonne of fibre produced compared to the first Woodspin plant. While Suzano develops its MFC process it is expected that the first Woodspin facility will mainly be used for R&D to test new MFC batches and that commercial production volumes will be limited in the short term. The market opportunity and ambition level with Suzano to scale Woodspin’s production capacity remains unchanged

Spinnova will continue to have the option to invest into all future Woodspin and Respin plants, as per the respective joint venture agreements. The company will evaluate whether it participates in these investments based on the value it creates for Spinnova’s shareholders compared to other opportunities to invest Spinnova’s capital. Regardless of whether Spinnova invests its own capital into future plants, Spinnova will continue to be the exclusive technology provider to Woodspin and Respin, and they will continue to be important technology customers of Spinnova.

RadiciGroup took part in the Phygital Sustainability Expo, this year in its fourth edition, which was held in Rome on 5 and 6 July. This event is entirely dedicated to the ecological transition of fashion and design brands through technological innovation. The show is an important platform for discussion on sustainable transition issues, involving Italian and international brands, fashion tech start-ups, representatives from the institutional, business and educational fields, and consumers.

RadiciGroup's participation in the event was further evidence of the Group's commitment to making a contribution to sustainability and circularity in the fashion and textile industry, in collaboration with all the other players in the supply chain. During the narrated fashion show, held on the evening of Wednesday, 5 July, in the evocative archaeological complex of the Imperial Forum Museum, RadiciGroup presented a maxi dress made of Biofeel® eleven, a yarn of completely natural origin featuring high technical, aesthetic and environmental performance. This yarn is produced starting from a small bean cultivated in India on semi-arid land and thus does not compete with human food production. These beans yield a special oil ideal for obtaining biopolymers, such as the one produced by Arkema and spun into yarn at RadiciGroup in Italy.

The dress is not only made from a low environmental impact raw material, but is also an example of ecodesign: the garment was realized on a Shima Seiki WholeGarment knitting machine, where the entire item was knit directly from spools of Biofeel® eleven yarn, bypassing the traditional stages of weaving and tailoring. It is a zero-waste process, as only the quantity of yarn strictly needed for the garment is used.

Biofeel® eleven yarn endows the dress with unique characteristics, including low moisture absorption, greater lightness and high resistance and durability. Besides being 100% biobased, the yarn is also 100% recyclable because it is made of a mono-material polymer, which facilitates its end-of-life recycling and processing into new materials suitable for any application requiring high performance.

• Project from the Global Organic Textile Standard, European Space Agency and Marple will use AI and satellite imagery to detect organic versus non-organic cotton fields
• Innovative demonstrator project explores the potential of remote monitoring to strengthen integrity and development of organic cotton cultivation
• Project will run across India with first results expected by the end of 2023

In a world first, the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), European Space Agency (ESA) and AI company Marple have today launched a new demonstrator project that aims to show the potential for remote satellite monitoring of organic cotton cultivation systems.

The project, to be carried out under ESA’s Business Applications and Space Solutions (BASS) programme, will train artificial intelligence (AI) to use ESA satellite data to detect cotton fields across India and automatically classify them according to their cultivation standard. By integrating standardised yield metrics, this innovative approach will also enable GOTS to generate realistic estimates of organic cotton yields in specific areas.

Integrated with existing GOTS measures, this project will enable GOTS to further enhance the integrity of organic cotton by developing advanced risk assessment technology for organic certification and preventing fraud from the beginning of the supply chain. “It is an honour and very exciting to be a partner in this ESA Demonstration Project, and it is living up to our claim to be pioneers serving the sustainable textile sector to enable continuous improvement. Technologies like this will be a game changer regarding the integrity and promotion opportunities of organic cotton.” says Claudia Kersten, Managing Director of GOTS.

The project's anticipated impact extends beyond identifying certified organic cotton fields. It is expected to also empower GOTS to recognise cotton fields that have not yet obtained organic certification but possess the potential for a seamless transition to organic cultivation, thanks to their utilisation of traditional and ecologically friendly farming practices. This would enable GOTS to bring a greater number of farmers – particularly those of a smaller size – into the certified organic sector and supply chains, creating new economic opportunities for small-scale farmers and their communities while also helping the textile sector to meet growing consumer demand for organic cotton. Guillaume Prigent, Business Development and Partnerships Officer at the European Space Agency, adds: “This project highlights how space solutions can have a positive impact on the world and is the kind of innovation that ESA supports through its Business Applications and Space Solutions programme.”

The project will run across the distinct cotton growing regions in India, with first results expected by the end of 2023.

India project builds on successful Uzbekistan feasibility pilot
The project is co-financed by GOTS and ESA, in collaboration with Marple GmbH, a German software development firm that developed the CoCuRA (Cotton Cultivation Remote Assessment) software with ESA BASS and successfully piloted it in a feasibility project in 2021 in Uzbekistan.

That venture showed how the trained AI was able to accurately differentiate cotton fields from other crops using only satellite images and sensor data, as well as whether the cotton fields were cultivated organically.

This spurred considerable interest from GOTS, which has committed to the development of cutting-edge technologies that can improve the integrity of the organic textile sector, especially cotton. Dr David Scherf, co-founder of Marple, said: “All our projects strive to leverage advanced technology for a positive impact on the environment and society. We are therefore delighted that our CoCuRA technology, which emerged from a moonshot research project, is being applied in a practical and impactful way. We are excited about the opportunity to work with the exceptional team at GOTS and further strengthen our successful partnership with ESA.”

"ITA Aachen and ITA Augsburg are part of the ITA Group International Centre for Sustainable Textiles. Experience our textile innovations at two exhibition booths," explains ITA Institute Director Professor Dr. Thomas Gries. "See our ring spinning tester at booth H3-B304, which spins recycled fibres sustainably and individually in a previously impossible fineness. In addition, there is digital yarn monitoring, which enables new market potentials. Get an idea of the Recycling Atelier of ITA Augsburg at booth H3-A207 and see the textile cycle from used textile to solution steps for industrial implementation together with industry partners. Join us on the Walk4Recycling and follow the path from used textile to a new knitted pullover on a tour of the trade fair. This is how we live up to our claim as the ITA Group: sustainable - digital - individual."

ITA Aachen - Digital ring spinning tester for recycled fibres enables spinning of fine yarns with high recycled fibres content
The Institut für Textiltechnik of RWTH Aachen University (ITA) will be exhibiting a digital ring spinning tester, which spins recycled fibres directly and conventionally with a particularly high content of 60-70 percent. Up to now, recycled yarns have mainly been rotor-spun in this blend ratio. This results in rather coarse yarns and is not suitable for finer textiles such as outerwear. Ring spinning of recycled yarns now enables the spinning of finer yarns and thus a higher application level for recycled materials.

A unique selling point of the ITA ring spinning tester is the simultaneous spinning in the direct spinning process from the sliver and in the classic ring spinning process. For this purpose, the strength and elongation of the spun yarn are determined online and digitally for the first time. The real-time measurement allows process parameters and yarn properties to be adjusted iteratively and quickly. The ring spinning tester was upgraded from an existing tester to Industry 4.0 standard and is operated via a tablet. Operation via tablet enables the adjustment of process parameters including online quality monitoring remotely from anywhere in the world.
 
For this purpose, the ring spinning tester is also able to produce fine ring spun yarns. These yarns made from recycled material opens up a multitude of further fields of application for woven and knitted goods. Now, for example, clothing and technical textiles can be made from recycled material, the production of which was not possible before - such as outerwear made from recycled material. The development of new industries and fields of application opens up new market potential for recycled yarns - also and especially for processing in Europe. This creates the opportunity to preserve key technologies and jobs in cost-intensive locations.

ITA Augsburg - Recycling Atelier: Walk4Recycling
The Recycling Atelier of the Institut für Textiltechnik Augsburg gGmbH on stand H3-A207 presents the textile recycling from used textiles into new products via the various process steps and, together with the industrial partners, opens up solution paths for industrial implementation.

Under the headline "Walk4Recycling", a tour of the fair shows the cycle of used textiles from used knitwear into a new knitted pullover via a ring yarn made from a blend of 65 percent recycled cotton and 35 percent virgin polyester. The key innovation here is the high proportion of recycled fibres from post-consumer textiles for a ring yarn of this fineness. Today, mainly coarse rotor yarns for low-quality textiles are spun from these materials. The industrial partners participating in the Walk4Recycling are partners of the Recycling Atelier and contribute with their technologies to the fact that fibre material from old clothes can be processed in various process stages into a yarn of new value and high-quality ready-made garments.

The Walk4Recycling offers visitors the opportunity to experience a complete recycling cycle with the numerous process stages from tearing the old textiles, preparing and spinning the fibres and knitting a new jumper live during the fair. Get detailed information on the mechanical recycling of clothing via QR code, website and flyer about the participating exhibitors and their machines and technologies. A short movie will give you additional insights into the various processes involved in the production of the jumper.

• Spunbond, meltblown and composite structures for new market opportunities

RadiciGroup is participating with its Advanced Textile Solutions business area at Index in Geneva from 18 to 21 April 2023. Among the Group’s products showcased are spunbond and meltblown for different application sectors, such as roofing, construction, automotive, HO.RE.CA. and filtration.

“The key message we are bringing to the fair is sustainability,” noted Enrico Buriani, CEO of the Nonwovens division of RadiciGroup Advanced Textile Solutions. “Those who already know us know that, for many years, the Group has been focused on proposing low environmental impact products and processes where sustainability is scientifically measured or certified by independent third parties. Our company is dedicated to nonwovens, which, by the way, are produced using 100% renewable energy. We have expanded our portfolio of innovative solutions for customers interested in realizing projects with sustainability as an essential requirement.”

Respunsible® is a spunbond brand manufactured from recycled polypropylene. A preliminary Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) study was carried out by RadiciGroup to demonstrate the correlation between the reduction in environmental impact and the percentage increase in recycled material. The final results demonstrate that a variable percentage of from 50 to 70% recycled material leads to a reduction in CO2 emissions of from 30 to 40%, compared to a fabric made of 100% virgin material, without comprising high technical performance.

Additionally, since RadiciGroup has achieved ISCC PLUS certification (International Sustainability and Carbon Certification), it can offer bio, biocircular or circular polypropylene spunbond and meltblown nonwovens, in which the sustainable polypropylene is biomass balanced. This certification signifies traceability along the supply chain and verifies that the certified companies meet high environmental and social standards.

“Since 2020, we have had a technologically advanced meltblown production line,” Mr. Buriani concluded. “This allows us to make composite structures, sold under the brand name Radimelt®. Now our goal is to expand our filtration applications, diversifying and developing new business, for instance vacuum cleaner bags or HVAC (heating, ventilation and air conditioning) system filters, where we can meet the high efficiency and mechanical resistance demanded, thanks to our latest generation technology.”

• Less C0₂ emissions + sustainable + recyclable

Sustainability first - this is the principle of the Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) of RWTH Aachen University at JEC World 2023. ITA combines various lightweight construction technologies to reduce C0₂ and to use renewable and/or recyclable raw materials.

ITA presents innovations in the production of reinforcing fibres and in the textile processing of high-modulus fibres. It also shows the impregnation of high-modulus fibres with thermosetting and thermoplastic matrix systems.  

ITA will be exhibiting in hall 6 together with Textechno, Mönchengladbach, Germany, textile testing equipment and Maruhachi Fukui, Japan, Thermoplastic Composite Material Systems. The Interreg AACOMA project will also be presented at the stand. 

• TreeToTextile sustainable textile fibre demo plant in Sweden

TreeToTextile, owned by H&M Group, Inter IKEA Group, Stora Enso, and LSCS Invest, invested €35 million in constructing a textile fiber process technology demonstration plant in Sweden. AFRY supported TreeToTextile throughout the project in the development and implementation phases from 2016-2022. The demonstration plant is now in the start-up phase.

TreeToTextile is offering a new technology to produce bio-based textile fibers with a low environmental footprint and aims to make sustainable textile fibers available to all. The new fiber is a regenerated cellulosic fiber, produced from renewable and sustainably sourced raw materials from forests. TreeToTextile has invested €35 million in developing and constructing a new demonstration plant in Nymölla, Sweden. This investment is a crucial step prior to the scale-up and commercialization of this technology.

AFRY has been the leading consultant and engineering partner of TreeToTextile from its early stages of project development in 2016, continuing onto demo plant implementation engineering from 2020-2022 In the project development phase, AFRY’s assignment included several pre-feasibility and feasibility studies, process design, up-scaling evaluations, and supplier pilot runs planning. In the demo plant implementation phase, AFRY was responsible for the engineering, project management and site services, also providing many additional services like permit and procurement support as well as machine and IT solutions.

“AFRY and TreeToTextile have a long-lasting, mutually developing relationship that we hope to continue. Together with AFRY, we have overcome the challenges through close collaboration, flexibility, broad competence and most important of all, mutual commitment”, says Olli Ylä-Jarkko, CTO at TreeToTextile.

The commissioning of the demonstration plant started in the summer of 2022, and the project was handed over to TreeToTextile for start-up and further optimization of the process.

“I’m proud of the deep and long-lasting cooperation with TreeToTextile. This project shows AFRY’s ability and wide competence to meet various demands of customer investment projects – from early phase development to implementation. AFRY’s long experience with bio-based materials, combined with our extensive process industry and project execution experience, makes us a unique partner for industrial clients in accelerating their bio-based fibers to scalable commercial production”, says Lisa Vedin, Head of Process Industries Sweden at AFRY.

Avgol®, a manufacturer of high-performance nonwoven fabric solutions, will use this month’s FILTECH exhibition in Germany to showcase its latest developments in using Algaeing™’s patented algae bio-based formulations for colorants and fibers.

Together with its sister companies from Indorama Ventures Limited (‘IVL’), Avgol will be presenting biotransformation capable fibers and meltblown for diversified end-use markets at the event from 14-16 February. Avgol will discuss with visitors how this new technology and the company’s biotransformative products can help businesses achieve their 2030 sustainability goals.

Algaeing’s technologies utilize various sustainably sourced, vertically farmed algae species to produce a wide range of appealing colors, many of which replicate the colors used in nonwoven fabrics today.

“The benefits of using an algae bio-source go far beyond the removal of chemically synthesized colorants, and include synergistic benefits of vastly reduced water consumption, chemical and fertilizer use, and carbon dioxide emissions,” says Avgol CEO Tommi Bjornman. “We will be demonstrating to FILTECH visitors that following an extensive development path, the fibers both absorb and retain a range of colors - such as vibrant greens and blues – and that we can even deliver a ‘heathered’ appearance for a more natural looking material, all without affecting the filtration, barrier quality or feel of the final product.”

• Third edition of Texhibition Istanbul will take place from 8-10 March 2023 at the Istanbul Expo Center
• Organizers focus on growth: more than 25,000 international visitors are targeted for March 2023
• More than 400 exhibitors show fabrics, yarns and accessories at the Istanbul Expo Center
• Trend seminars and trend area with special focus on sustainability presents the trends for spring/summer 2024

The third edition of Texhibition Istanbul Fabric, Yarn and Textile Accessories Fair, 8-10 March 2023 builds on the successful editions of the fair last year. The fair is organized by the Istanbul Textile Exporters' Association (ITHIB) and with the support of the Istanbul Chamber of Commerce (ICOC).

More than 400 exhibitors from the areas of knitwear, woven fabrics, denim, yarns and accessories will present their 2024 spring-summer collections on 15,000 square meters in the Istanbul Expo Center. These include well-known names such as Kipaş, Bossa, Yünsa, Btd, Çalık, Hefa, İskur, Universal, Gülle, and Migiboy.

At the last event in September 2022, a total of 20,606 visitors took the opportunity to start business discussions and place orders. Among them international visitors from 97 countries, including the EU, UK, USA, North Africa and the Middle East. Over 25,000 visitors are expected at the upcoming Texhibition in March 2023 such as large clothing manufacturers, purchasing managers of international chain stores and department stores, managers of international brands and chains with their own brand collections, managers of online sales platforms, importers, wholesalers, distributors, designers, etc.

The trend area at Texhibition will show the spring-summer 2024 trends with a focus on sustainable aspects.

Texhibition Istanbul completes the IFCO, Istanbul Fashion Connection, which takes place from 8.-11. February 2023, also for the third time at the Istanbul Expo Center.