From the Sector

The Cetex Institut gGmbH, the thermoPre ENGINEERING GmbH and The FilamentFactory GmbH cooperate in the development, production and marketing of novel hybrid materials. The cooperation agreement signed on October 2, 2020 in Chemnitz takes the collaboration to a new level. "We are pleased to be able to supply the hybrid rovings to the end user not only in an application-specific manner, but also to offer the engineering for subsequent component applications, including the prototyping of the FRP components," says Sebastian Nendel, Managing Director of Cetex.

Patented process for the production of hybrid rovings
In the last 3 years the Cetex Institute has developed a plant technology for the production of hybrid rovings. By means of the patented process, different material combinations can be produced according to customer specifications. Material combinations of reinforcing fibers (glass, basalt, carbon, aramid or high-strength polymer fibers) can be combined with matrix fibers (PP, PET, PA, PPS, PEEK), but also special combinations of different reinforcing fibers or the combination of reinforcing fibers with metal fibers. Advantages of the new hybrid roving are the torsion-free and completely stretched fiber layer and the associated optimal utilization of the properties of the reinforcing fibers, as well as a very good homogeneity, whereby excellent processing can be achieved in later process steps.

Series production as next step
The next goal is clearly defined: Under the agreement, the process is to be jointly developed further by the project partners and transferred to series production. These joint activities form the basis for many years of intensive cooperation in this new field.

• Technology, creativity and sustainability
• Recycled materials, bright colours, eclectic shapes: excellence is in the details, and the new creations by the Italian-Swiss group have plenty to say.

Mendrisio – Looking at the new Fall-Winter 2021-2022 collection of the Riri Group, it almost seems as if the difficult months to which the pandemic has forced the whole world, have been another new – though unwanted – challenge for the Italian-Swiss company. A testbed that sparked the mind and lit the fire of creativity. Therefore, today, the brand ingredient which for over 80 years has embellished the
garments designed by major fashion system brands with top-quality zips and buttons, also introduces a wide range of heterogeneous creations, intended to cover different aesthetic and functional requirements on the market.

This collection has been divided into three macro-topics; it is a new chapter in the history of the Group.

LIFE SERVING
Keyword: sustainability. Or, more romantically, “Reuse with love”. From the use of materials produced using organic waste and recycled plastics to actual destocking – the re-introduction on the market of unsold items to give them new life through a restyled shape: the topic of “life serving”, for Riri, translates into the meticulous and constant search for materials with a low environmental impact and in the committed attempt to reduce the use of plastic to a minimum. This is why the Group has decided to use recycled polyester tapes, made with new organic cotton, pullers coated with cork, created using 100% recycled plastics or rubber taken from the sole of shoes. Stainless steel – an exceptionally resistant and sturdy material, as well being subject to no galvanic treatments and highly recyclable – characterizes chains and pullers, while the Nylon zip consists of fully recycled tape and chain, and Decor introduces a new 100% polyamide version. On the button side, “life serving” includes buttons with a cork coating, the Zero button with coating made of recycled Meryl polyamide and the F4 with a 100% recycled Nylon head and the heads made of APILON 52 (rubber made of 65% vegetable oils and energy from renewable sources) coated with microfiber from the company Alcantara.

ENGINEERING
This is definitely the most rigorous yet progressive section in the collection, drawing on technological innovation and on uncertainties related to the current situation, to play with shapes, colours and materials. Between zips and buttons there is a prevalence of squared and minimal shapes, also on the tapes of the zips through sublimation and digital printing techniques. The leading colour is grey in its variation of hues, where the insertion of coloured tones sometimes stands out. The leading material, on the other hand, is metal.

OVER SHOCK
A creative topic where “exaggeration” is the keyword, a trend whose style and character somehow remind us of Gen-Z, apart from being especially suitable for outdoors. “Over state” uses the hip hop mood and settings of the Nineties, taking them to the extreme, enlarging shapes and focusing on bright and fluorescent colours such as purple, yellow, blue, orange or green. An example of this is Storm Evo, a zip which is popular in the outdoor sector for its high levels of water resistance and strength, which features a new electric blue chain and tape with reflecting side strips. Also outstanding in terms of originality is the new purple puller, with its anti-theft shape, fixed onto a fluorescent yellow chain. The perfect expression of this category are zippers such as Decor, Nylon and Aquazip, especially recommended for the outdoor sector in general.

COLLECTION HIGHLIGHTS: RESTYLING AND INNOVATION
All the macro-categories selected for the FW 21-22 seasons are included in some special product innovations, most notably the even more minimal and thin shapes of some buttons and the introduction of five different colours for the small synthetic ring, a real point of strength in Cobrax pressure buttons. Also the range of magnetic buttons is complemented by the addition of two extra snaps. As regards zips, the Riri Group team has been working on careful restyling of shapes, more specifically in the shapes of Decor zip bodies – ideal for the luggage industry – further improved from both an aesthetic and functional viewpoint.

During the Innovate Textile & Apparel (ITA) virtual textile machinery show which will run from October 15th-30th 2020, Monforts will be emphasising its leadership position in three key fields – advanced coating, denim finishing and fabric sanforizing.

With its multi-head capability, the latest Monforts texCoat coating system provides flexibility with an unprecedented range of options and a wide range of modules available.

Refinements
“Since we acquired the coating technology that our systems are based on we have made a lot of refinements and all of them are reflected in higher coating accuracy and the resulting quality of the treated fabrics,” says Monforts Head of Technical Textiles, Jürgen Hanel.
“Our systems have the shortest fabric path from the coating unit into the stenter and we have all variations of coating application systems too – and all of these options are available in wider widths, with the engineering and manufacturing from a single source here in Europe.”

CYD
Denim finishing is meanwhile a field in which Monforts has an undisputed lead and it has been working closely with its many partners in the key denim manufacturing countries of Bangladesh, Brazil, China, India, Mexico Pakistan and Turkey to develop advanced solutions. The latest of these is the CYD yarn dyeing system.
“CYD is based on the proven Econtrol® dyeing system for fabrics*,” explains Monforts Head of Denim Hans Wroblowski. “It integrates new functions and processes into the weaving preparatory processes – spinning, direct beaming, warping and assembly beaming, followed by sizing and dyeing – in order to increase quality, flexibility, economic viability and productivity. The CYD system has been developed in response to a very strong market demand.”

Pre-shrinking
Monforts has also recently delivered a significant number of its latest Monfortex sanforizing lines to customers around the world.
Sanforizing is vital to final fabric quality, pre-shrinking it by compressing prior to washing, to limit any residual or further shrinkage in a made-up finished garment to less than 1%, for perfect comfort and fit over an extended lifetime.

As with industry-leading Montex stenters, Monfortex lines benefit from the latest Qualitex 800 control system which allows all parameters to be easily automated via the 24-inch colour touchscreen, including production speed, control of all fabric feed devices, rotation spray or steaming cylinder options, the width of the stretching field and the rubber belt pressure. Up to 10,000 separate process parameter records can be generated and stored by the data manager.

*Econtrol® is a registered mark of DyStar Colours Distribution GmbH, Germany.

Mountains of waste, plastic-infested oceans, negative CO2 footprints – the need for more sustainable ways of living has never been more urgent. Consequently, it is logical that recycling solutions are becoming increasingly important within the textile industry. This was also tapped into at the first virtual Global Fiber Congress in Dornbirn with a session that focused specifically on the topic. In front of around 400 participants, Markus Reichwein, Head of Product Management at Oerlikon Barmag, also spoke about solutions currently on the market.

As one of only manufactureres, the Oerlikon Group’s Manmade Fibers segment offers the entire mechanical recycling chain –from preparing the recycled materials, producing the melt all the way through to the textured package. Here, the company utilizes the VacuFil solution supplied by its subsidiary Barmag Brückner Engineering (BBE) –which, in addition to mastering bottle-to-bottle and bottle-to-textile processes, is also able to process textile waste into chips. This permits the running of textile production operations very much in line with the zero-waste philosophy.

VacuFil ensures a stable process in the case of recycled quality yarns
The reliable removal of contaminants is vital for a stable and efficient spinning process and outstanding yarn quality. At the same time, stable operating conditions with minimal fluctuations are essential. The greatest challenge here is the differing qualities of the bottle flakes fed into the system, as the extrusion process is barely able to balance these fluctuations. Here, the VacuFil concept counters with blending silos, which reduce the differences in the viscosity of the polymers considerably and guarantee high yarn and fabric quality.

The VacuFil concept is installed upstream to an Oerlikon Barmag POY system, which transforms the recycled melt into filament yarn of the accustomed high quality. As texturing solutions, Oerlikon Barmag offers its state-of-the-art automatic eAFK-series systems, including the latest generation of the eAFK Evo, which was unveiled at the ITMA Barcelona last year. Yarn manufacturers wishing to continue texturing manually can use the eFK series.

With the VarioFil R+, producers of smaller batches now also have a compact system with an integrated recycled materials preparation unit at their disposal. The system offers a special extrusion system for bottle flake materials, the very latest metering and mixing technology for spin-dying and expanded 2-stage melt filtration. The four spinning positions are each equipped with an Oerlikon Barmag 10-end WINGS POY winder.

While mechanical recycling has already been extensively developed, chemical recycling for mixed fabrics is still presenting the textile industry with huge challenges. The Oerlikon Group’s Manmade Fibers segment is currently working on solutions and concepts for transforming these fabrics into new textiles.

• Industrial yarn: Capacity expansion in the high-end sector

Remscheid – the Chinese industrial yarn manufacturer Zhejiang Kingsway High-Tech Fiber Co., Ltd. is expanding its production capacities by a further 40,000 tons per annum with 5 Oerlikon Barmag lines. Kingsway is already successfully manufacturing special high-quality yarns, exclusively deploying Oerlikon Barmag industrial yarn systems.

The 21 new spinning positions will be used to manufacture a broad product range: in addition to super-low-shrinkage (SLS) and high-tenacity (HT) yarn, the business also plans to produce automotive yarns for seat belts and airbags. This flexibility is made possible as a result of the Oerlikon Barmag systems’ configuration. The new systems are expected to commence manufacturing next year.

Industrial yarns for greater safety

As a quality-conscious industrial yarn producer, Kingsway has been manufacturing its sophisticated, high-end yarns on Oerlikon Barmag filament yarn systems since 2015. Alex Yang Yu Long, CEO of Kingsway, is proud of relying on engineering artistry from Remscheid: “As expected, the yarns are first-class in terms of quality. Our products are used in safety equipment, sometimes in situations where lives depend on them. Therefore, there can be no compromises. To this end, we select our partners with the utmost care."

• Move is in line with global growth strategy with a strong focus in the Asia Pacific region
• Zhejiang plant will be able to produce 50,000 tons of nylon compounds annually in the longer term
• Plant will be located in the convenient transportation port area of DuShan Pinghu city

DOMO Chemicals, a leading producer of high - quality engineering materials for a diverse range of markets, has announced plans for a new state - of - the - art plant in Zhejiang, China. The new plant will be capable of producing 50,000 tons of sustainable and innovative engineered nylon compounds each year. The company signed a new factory project through “cloud contract” with PingHu DuShan port Economic Development District on February 20, 2020. Production is expected to commence in the fourth quarter of this year.

DOMO Chemicals will invest €12 million in the new plant, which will have more than 11,500 m 2-floor space. The company plans to install multiple production lines at the first stage of development, which would offer an estimated capacity of 25,000 tons/year. There will be enough additional space available to cope with future demand requirements. The move is in line with the company’s global growth strategy with a strong focus on the Asia Pacific (APAC) region.

Sicomin continues to assert itself as the leading formulator and supplier of high-performance, bio-based epoxy resin systems with the launch of new bioresins at JEC World 2020, Hall 6, Booth 43. The group will unveil a variety of products that are each available in industrial quantities for series production within Automotive, Wind Energy and Civil Engineering.

Bio Fire Retardant Epoxy Gelcoat for Wind Energy and Infrastructure
Sicomin will showcase SGi 128, an innovative intumescent epoxy gelcoat developed specifically for fire retardant coating applications for critical components found in the Wind Energy and Civil Engineering markets.
SGi 128 Gelcoat is produced with 38% of its carbon content derived from non-oil sources and is a halogen free gelcoat that provides outstanding fire protection for epoxy laminates and extremely low smoke toxicity. Available with both fast and slow hardeners, this easy to apply epoxy system forms a much tougher and waterproof part surface than traditional intumescent coatings. Sicomin’s SGi 128 is available in industrial volumes with short lead times and has been successfully tested to EN 13501 (EUROCLASS B-S1-d0) and ASTM E84 (Class A).

NEW Bio Resin for HP-RTM processing for Automotive
Sicomin’s new bio-resin specifically formulated for HP-RTM processing, SR GreenPoxy® 28, is the sixth product in Sicomin’s renowned GreenPoxy® range. SR GreenPoxy® 28 is a fast cycle, low toxicity, third generation bio-based formulation aimed specifically at the HP-RTM moulding processes used for both high performance Automotive structural parts and aesthetic carbon fibre components. The new formulation has been optimized for fast production cycle times and superior mechanical performance and is a more sustainable alternative to traditional resins providing exceptional performance and quality for high volume programmes.

GreenPoxy® InfuGreen 810 on display with the GREENBOATS Flax 27 Daysailer on the JEC Planets
With very low viscosity at room temperature, InfuGreen 810 has been formulated to support manufacturers seeking bio-based alternatives for producing parts using injection or infusion techniques. Produced with 38% plant-based carbon content, InfuGreen 810 holds the DNV GL certification, providing extra assurance of the product’s quality, efficiency and safety standards. This high-performance epoxy infusion system is demonstrated at JEC World through the display of the GREENBOATS Flax 27 daysailer on the JEC Planets.

     Experienced people-centric leader to strengthen product and service capabilities

The leadership team of Baldwin Technology Company Inc. has appointed Joe Kline as its new President and CEO, effective January 17, 2020. Baldwin is a leading global manufacturer of innovative process-automation technology for the printing, packaging and converting industries. Acting CEO Kyle Chapman will continue as Baldwin’s Chairman, and devote greater focus to BW Forsyth Partners’ rapidly expanding portfolio. In 2012, Forsyth acquired thenpublic Baldwin and took it private.

Prior to joining Baldwin, Kline served as the president of a division in Eaton’s electrical sector. In addition, his previous experience includes commercial leadership roles at Eaton, Duke Manufacturing and Emerson. He holds a bachelor’s degree in electrical engineering from Ohio University and a Master of Business Administration in international business from Saint Louis University.

Kline’s appointment follows the 2019 appointments of four Baldwin business segment presidents: Rich Bennett at AMS Spectral UV, Tomas Anderbjer at Baldwin Precision Applications, Vince Balistrieri at Baldwin Vision Systems, and Matt Shishikura at Baldwin Japan.

The integrated sustainable network making fashion circular, Made in Italy and 100% traceable

World leading textile manufacturer Manteco presents its sustainable path for a better future: The Manteco System. A strategy and a vision shaping the company’s sustainable imprint since 1943. The system consists in the development and engineering of a production network involving 100 partner-companies from the whole supply chain “We all team up responsibly to create premium collection based on transparent , traceable  circular economy practices,” comments Matteo Mantellassi, co-CEO of Manteco.
 
To achieve meeting the demand for fair and sustainable fashion that consumers believe in, and is expected  from our clients, the company and its partners have created and accomplished to a Protocol of Sustainable Values and Commitments in line with the highest standards of the global market.

“On a hand, the protocol preserves the unique ‘genius loci’ of our territory – it respects the heritage of all our partners, from the smaller businesses to the more structured ones - on the other hand, it works like a shared compass of sustainable values, allowing the whole supply chain behind Manteco products to stand out and be competitive on the global stage” adds Mantellassi.
 
The protocol and its monitored and traceable system cover virtuous management of resources – e.g. Water, energy and chemical products - waste management and low production impact on the environment but also responsible standards in terms of employment, quality of the working environment, equal rights and anti-discrimination policies.

One of the key  results of such commitment and sustainable development is the creation of an upgraded version of the recycled wool  MWool™: a top ingredient made from premium recycled wool process guaranteed by the Manteco System.The System works like a symphony where management, measurement and controls  are not there just to test  the quality of each single phase of processes or  products , but to make sure and offer the complete traceability of Manteco production.  From raw material, to yarn, spinning, finishing, testing and final fabric.

Some productions tips about Manteco:

•  5.3 million kg of raw materials processed annually.
•  6.860 tests on raw material per year.
•  34.400 tests on finished products.
•  100% made in Italy system completely based in the Prato district since 1943.
•  Total transparency and traceability thanks to a highly skilled management system.

With a turnover of over 91m Euro in 2019 and an annual growth of 17,80% since 2012, Manteco SpA is the 4th textile company in Italy, listed in the TOP30 companies of the Italian fashion system. “The unique Manteco system adds value to our products while highlighting the sustainable path we share with all our partners both upstream and downstream”.

In the AZL Workgroup "High-Performance SMC", a project was developed in cooperation with M-Base, the IKV and the AZL partner network for the efficient and standardized provision of engineering data for SMC. Within the scope of the project, companies can participate in the definition of the required characteristic material data, the guidelines for the production of test specimens and the test specifications.
Sheet Moulding Compounds (SMC) are used in various application areas such as vehicles, electronics, construction and infrastructure.

Driven by the requirements to reduce the production costs of lightweight components, a new generation of SMC components with high mechanical properties is of highest relevance. SMC offers enormous potential to realize structural components with good lightweight characteristics at significantly reduced costs compared to conventional continuous fiber-reinforced components.
In order to further establish SMC in broad industrial applications companies participating within the AZL Workgroup recognized the value of a data bank for data harmonization of SMC to provide the possibility of easily finding the right material with its characteristics for the needed specific requirements.

“The segment of SMC is with 250,000 tons production per year the largest composites market in Europe. I am very pleased that we start now with the project of data harmonization along the complete value chain. The goal is to have a similar data base as already established by Campus® for thermoplastics and thermoplastic composites. Only with a reliable set data we can convince the engineering experts to use SMC in a larger variety of applications,” says Dr. Michael Effing, Chairman of the Board of AVK and Composites Germany.

As of right now a databank for engineered thermoplastic materials (by Campus®) already exists and is offering an immense value.
Under the lead of M-Base, Dr. CEO Erwin Baur who has successfully established the CAMPUS database, the AZL, IKV and companies along the value chain of long fibre reinforced SMC initiated to build a CAMPUS-compatible data structure and material characterization methodology during the High-Performance SMC Workgroup Meetings.