From the Sector

Over 400 employees work hard every day to improve the environmental performance of Radici Yarn’s site. Through teamwork and continuous improvement in energy efficiency, Radici Yarn has obtained ISO 50001 Energy Management Systems certification, which attests to the organization’s commitment to contain and progressively reduce energy consumption.

Radici Yarn, one of the companies in the RadiciGroup Advanced Textile Solutions Business Area, is engaged in the production and sale of polyamide 6 polymer, PA6 and PA66 continuous filament and staple yarn, and other synthetic fibres, including products made of recycled or bio-based materials.

All the processes - polymerization and spinning (Villa d'Ogna plant), as well as warping and draw-warping (Ardesio plant) - are run under constant monitoring with the goal of achieving maximum energy efficiency and lower consumption. Both sites are powered by two hydroelectric power plants owned by Geogreen, a RadiciGroup partner and energy supplier. The share of energy consumption from renewable sources and reduced environmental impact (natural gas) sources  is constantly increasing.

The energy issue has always been a priority for Radici Yarn, whose products serve numerous sectors, including automotive, clothing and furnishings.

"Already at the beginning of the 1990s, Radici Yarn started investing in cogeneration, the simultaneous production of electricity and steam,” pointed out Laura Ravasio, energy manager of Radici Yarn SpA. “We have recently started up an advanced trigeneration plant – a highly efficient system that produces not only electricity and steam, but also chilled water for our production processes. One of the first results recorded in 2021 was a 30% reduction in water consumption. Thus, ISO 50001 certification seemed like the next logical step to take in formalizing a long-term approach to energy.”

The ISO 50001 certification, which is voluntary and valid for a period of three years, was added to the ISO 14001 Environmental and ISO 9001 Quality Management system certifications previously achieved by Radici Yarn.

Sappi, a leading provider of sustainable woodfibre-based packaging materials, is expanding production of its successful Fusion Topliner grade to its flagship mill in Gratkorn, Austria. The Fusion Topliner – a white virgin fibre liner for high-quality corrugated packaging – will also continue to be manufactured at Sappi’s Ehingen mill in Germany. With this project, Sappi isn’t just expanding its production capacity in the corrugated board business. By offering the same product quality from both mills, Sappi is bringing production closer to its customers – to guarantee a sustainable and short supply chain in the heart of Europe.

• Sappi’s Fusion Topliner virgin fibre liner strengthens brand image and impact, and demand continues to grow
• Capacities are now being expanded through significant investment at Gratkorn mill, Austria
• Volumes will be enlarged in the next months to ensure reliable customer supply

Just a decade ago, there were only two options on the market for coated white corrugated liners: either kraft liner made from high-quality raw materials and with a very low recycled content, or test liner, which consists almost exclusively of recycled paper. As an alternative, Sappi developed its Fusion Topliner, now the most widely used corrugated liner made from pure virgin fibre. It is recommended for applications such as premium quality consumer goods packaging and POS displays – where high visual impact and differentiation are key. The product also stands out with exceptional strength and versatility.

Sappi’s Fusion Topliner has been successful on the market for many years. Demand for the product has continued to grow, due to its exceptional characteristics for print quality and finishing. Production is now being expanded from the German mill in Ehingen to include Sappi’s flagship mill in Gratkorn. The available capacities are now being expanded to include the production of Fusion Topliner in addition to existing graphic papers. Volume availability will be increased month by month to support the expected growth of our customers, and to satisfy large requirements in the corrugated board business.

Just under a year ago, the EREMA Group started to repurpose the premises of Gruber & Kaja in St. Marien, which they took over as a reserve site in January 2021. In the meantime, a lot is going on there.

"When this site came up for sale, it only took us a few days to decide to buy the 40,000m² plot, including the workshop hall, which has an area of 15,000m²," says Manfred Hackl, CEO of EREMA Group GmbH. Around EUR 20 million was invested in the purchase, as the site offered the opportunity to increase production capacity by 60 percent in the immediate vicinity of the company headquarters in Ansfelden.

The fact that this site is now already being used so intensively was not envisaged at the time, because at the end of 2020 the company was just completing the expansion to their headquarters in Ansfelden, involving an investment of around EUR 17 million. 20 new jobs have already been created as a result, with a further 30 to follow in the next few months. By the time the new site is completed, the total number of new jobs will be up to 150.

This development is due to the high demand for the EREMA Group's plastics recycling technologies and the trend towards ever-larger recycling plants. "Just in December, we delivered a VACUREMA® system to Brazil that will produce up to 40,000 metric tonnes of recycled PET (rPET) per year. That is equivalent to recycling around 1.1 billion 1.5-litre PET bottles. This site provides the perfect conditions for building this scale of machine," says Hackl.

Markus Achleitner, Upper Austria's Minister for the Economy, was also impressed by this development during his visit to St. Marien. "There is hardly any other region in the world that focuses as closely on materials expertise and the circular economy as in Upper Austria. We want to fully exploit this potential with our #upperVISION2030 business and research strategy. EREMA is an important driver in this industry. It makes me all the more pleased that the company owners have once again confirmed their commitment to Upper Austria as a business location, to the circular economy and to the employees by developing this site," says Achleitner. "This investment is an important positive signal for the entire region of Upper Austria location, especially in the current challenging times, and all the more so for creating 150 jobs," he emphasises.

New site milestones
Since January 2021, part of the existing office and hall space at Kunststoffstraße 1, as the site's address is now called, has been occupied by companies and departments of the EREMA Group. UMAC GmbH, a subsidiary specialising in servicing and trading previously owned recycling machines, which was severely short of space at its main location in Styria, moved its entire production and administration to St. Marien. Large areas of hall storage space were adapted for both UMAC and EREMA GmbH. The paint shop was also relocated from Ansfelden to St. Marien, and another hall was equipped for building large-scale VACUREMA® systems - these are systems used all over the world to recycle PET bottles. Production in this workshop is now being ramped up step by step.
Space that is not being used in St. Marien over the medium-term will be rented out. An industry-related firm has already moved in, and another 300 m² of office space is currently still available.

SHIMA SEIKI ITALIA S.p.A., Italian subsidiary of leading Japanese computerized knitting solutions provider SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD., will exhibit at the 90th edition of the Pitti Immagine Filati exhibition in Florence, Italy. Products exhibited will include the N.SVR®123SP computerized flat knitting machine as well as APEXFiz™ design software.

The N.SVR®123SP computerized knitting machine features a special loop presser bed, capable of producing hybrid inlay fabrics with both knit and weave characteristics. Demand for such novel fabrics are very high across a wide range of applications, from fashion apparel to sportswear, innerwear, outerwear, uniforms and other functional clothing, as well as home furnishing and technical textiles. Shown in 18G at the SHIMA SEIKI booth, N.SVR®123SP will also feature the special i-Plating option, capable of alternating yarn colors in any pattern, producing jacquard-like designs using plain jersey stitch. Plating can be performed within the same course and for individual needles. In combination with the loop presser and spring-type moveable sinker system even greater diversity in knit design is possible. An SVR®123SP machine in 14G with i-Plating option will also be on display at the booth of yarn spinner IAFIL S.p.A. as well.

APEXFiz™ is subscription-based design software that maintains the proven functions that have made SHIMA SEIKI’s SDS®-ONE APEX series design systems so popular with fashion designers. Installed on personal computers, those strengths are now enhanced with the added versatility to adapt to different work styles and business environments including teleworking and telecommuting. APEXFiz™ software supports the creative side of fashion from planning and design to colorway evaluation, realistic fabric simulation and 3D virtual sampling. Virtual samples are a digitized version of sample making that are accurate enough to be used effectively as prototypes, replacing physical sampling and consequently reducing time, cost and material that otherwise go to waste. APEXFiz™ thereby helps to realize sustainability and digitally transform the fashion supply chain.

APEXFiz™ along with SHIMA SEIKI’s yarnbank™ digital yarn web platform are featured at a special section launched at the previous session of Pitti Filati no. 89 called Pitti Studios. Pitti Studios is a content production service that yarn companies exhibiting at Pitti Filati can use for their own promotion. Yarn companies provide a piece of yarn, which is digitized on yarnbank™ and used to simulate photorealistic fabric on APEXFiz™. This is then processed by a creative studio specializing in digital content to provide static and animated 3D virtual representations. The process shows how to use the latest DX tools to provide accurate representation of a finished garment without having to produce any fabric, converting the conventionally wasteful process of sample-making into a sustainable one.

Continuing from past editions of Pitti Filati are knit samples produced in collaboration with Italian designer Vittorio Branchizio.

After thorough consultation with the exhibitors and partners of the event, JEC Group has decided to postpone the 2022 edition of JEC World. The world’s leading composites event will now take place from May 3rd to 5th, 2022, at the same venue Paris Nord Villepinte, as well as online via the JEC World Connect digital platform.

JEC World gathers the whole value chain of the composite materials industry in Paris, France every year and is “the place to be” for composites professionals from all over the world. The event brings together not only all major global companies, but also innovative startups in the field of composites and advanced materials, experts, academics, scientists, and R&D leaders. JEC World is also the “festival of composites”, offering a unique showcase of what composites can offer to various application sectors, from aerospace to marine, from construction to automotive, and an unlimited source of inspiration for participants from these industries.

“We are fully dedicated to supporting the composites industry and to fostering its development via our events and media activities. Exhibitors and partners are strongly supporting JEC World, their leading event and want to meet in person in 2022 to activate business, share knowledge and highlight innovations. Postponing from March to May is a way to offer improved conditions to satisfy the industry requirements for such a trade fair as JEC World”, says Eric Pierrejean, CEO of JEC Group.

The JEC World team has decided to postpone the event after conducting a survey of its exhibitors and partners, confirming that a large majority is in favour of the new dates in May. As already planned, for three days, the event will offer for the first time a digital platform, JEC World Connect, in parallel to the in-person event in Paris for an augmented digital experience. Even after the show, via the JEC Web TV, unique content will be available to extend the reach of the event.

“Our main concern is to create the best possible conditions for our participants for successful networking, inspiration and business success. With a postponement of eight weeks we can enable this and offer to the industry the event it deserves. Taking the decision now, after consultation of all exhibitors, was necessary to give them planning and preparation visibility,” adds Thomas Lepretre, VP Events, Sales and Operations.

International technology group ANDRITZ has received an order from the Uzbek cotton spinning specialist Texygen Textile LLC to supply a complete neXline spunlace line. Start-up is scheduled for the first quarter of 2023.

This will be the first spunlace line ever installed in Uzbekistan. The equipment will process high-quality cotton fibers in a fully integrated production line, from bleaching to winding. With this new line, Texygen Textile LLC will be able to produce top-class spunlace wipes made of 100% cotton, thus opening up new market opportunities.

The ANDRITZ equipment will minimize fiber loss and enable Texygen to produce a high-end spunlace fabric that will allow the company to serve the international medical industry with spunlace wipes.

Established in 2010, Texygen is a frontrunner in the Uzbekistan textile industry, especially in cotton spinning. The company has its headquarters in Tashkent, Uzbekistan.

Promising conditions in the technical textiles and nonwovens market are expected to provide ample opportunities for suppliers at this year’s Cinte Techtextil China. The fair, which last year saw 366 exhibitors and 14,868 visits, will take place from 6 – 8 September 2022 at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre. Flexible exhibiting options will once again be available for overseas companies.

Ms Wendy Wen, Senior General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd, explained the positive conditions that exhibitors should expect at the fair thusly: “The pandemic has led to a surge in Chinese exports of both technical textiles and nonwovens, the latter in particular. The country remains the largest supplier of nonwovens, comprising one-third of the global total, yet still requires the advanced offerings of overseas machinery suppliers, as well as supplies of raw materials, to support its export production.”

Ms Wen continued: “Domestically, China is seeing increasing consumption of functional apparel, sportswear and personal protection items. Heightened health and sanitary regulations and new hygiene habits will also continue to drive demand, especially for nonwovens, well into the future. There has also been a post-pandemic boost in demand for filter, greenhouse covering and high-density fabrics amongst others. All of this adds up to a wealth of opportunities for overseas companies to take advantage of, as was experienced in the 2021 edition of the fair.”

Exhibitor and visitor experiences in 2021
“Our organisation promotes US cotton and we hope to use this platform to meet more companies and brands in the nonwovens industry who are interested in US cotton, and to meet up with old friends to discuss the current situation and industry trends. We also found some new potential clients this time.” Mr Eric Ni, Senior Manager, China Supply Chain Marketing, Fabrics, Garments and Nonwovens, Cotton Council International, USA

“Cinte Techtextil China is a professional exhibition that brings together cutting-edge technologies and products, allowing us to quickly learn about innovative technology trends in the industry. I’ve been particularly impressed by the biodegradable products in the Innovation Showcase. In addition, I am sourcing mask-related products and mops, and I have found some companies that I’m interested in.” Ms Claire Zhang, Senior Scientist, Personal Health, Philips Research China, Philips (China) Investment Co Ltd, China

Business of the automobile industry and its suppliers was impacted in 2021 by the worldwide shortage of semiconductors and the correspondingly restrained development of production volumes, which was about the same as the previous year. Autoneum’s revenue in local currencies declined slightly by 1.6% compared with the previous year. In Swiss francs, Group revenue decreased by 2.3% to CHF 1 700.4 million year-on-year. For 2021 as a whole, an EBIT margin of a little more than 3% and a free cash flow of around CHF 70 million are expected.

Owing to the global shortage of semiconductors, automobile production for 2021 as a whole increased by 2.5% to 76.4 million vehicles and was thus only slightly higher than the previous year’s level. Autoneum’s revenue in local currencies declined by 1.6% year-on-year. Although revenue developed better than the market in three of four regions, the Company lagged slightly behind the global market trend. On the one hand, this was due to the fact that some vehicle models of US manufacturers predominantly supplied by Autoneum were disproportionately affected by the shortage of semiconductors, and, on the other hand, due to the lower share of Business Group Asia in Autoneum’s total revenue. The consolidated revenue in Swiss francs fell by 2.3% to CHF 1 700.4 million compared to the previous year (2020: CHF 1 740.6 million).

Revenue development in the Europe, Asia and SAMEA regions well above market
Business Group Europe recorded a decline in revenue of 1.6% in local currencies and was thus well above the market trend, which saw production fall by 4.4%. By contrast, revenue for Business Group North America in local currencies dropped by 7.2% and was thus well below the market, which saw a small increase of 0.1%. The vehicle models of US customers predominantly supplied by Autoneum were disproportionately affected by the semiconductor shortage. Consequently, Autoneum lagged behind the market trend in this region. Asia was the market least impacted by the semiconductor shortage in financial year 2021. Accordingly, in 2021 Asian automobile production saw good growth of 5.1%. Business Group Asia once again exceeded the overall Asian market, with revenue growth of 6.7% in local currencies. Business Group SAMEA (South America, the Middle East and Africa) significantly exceeded the market trend in financial year 2021.

Although 8.6% more vehicles were produced in the region compared to the prior year, Business Group SAMEA’s revenue rose by an impressive 24.8% on an inflation- and currency-adjusted basis. This growth was largely supported by high-volume programs in Turkey and South Africa.

Thanks to better than expected revenue at the end of 2021, Autoneum is in the upper range of its guidance, which was adjusted in October. Based on provisional figures, Autoneum expects an EBIT margin of slightly more than 3% and a free cash flow of around CHF 70 million for 2021.

Mit ihrer Frankfurt City Edition 2022 präsentierte sich die Neonyt-Konferenz Fashionsustain am 19. Januar 2022 in hybrider Form: Limitiert und unter strengen Hygienebedingungen live vor Ort oder im Livestream gab es Impuls-Insights, Panel Discussions und Fashion Deep-Dives zum Status Quo der Textil- und Modebranche. Mit dabei waren unter anderem der Grüne Knopf, Fond of, der German Design Council und Tchibo.

Unter dem Motto Change the set-up beleuchtete die Fashionsustain, das internationale und multidisziplinäre Konferenzformat der Neonyt, am 19. Januar 2022 im Rahmen der Frankfurt Fashion Week, wie die Textil- und Modebranche den laufenden Transformationsprozess bewältigen und sich für zuküftige Herausforderungen wappnen kann. Die Themen Konsumentenverhalten, unternehmerische Sorgfaltspflichten und Nachhaltigkeit am Point-of-Sale standen dabei im Fokus.

Change the Mindset – Änderung des Konsumverhaltens
Den Auftakt zur hybriden City Edition im Frankfurter Danzig am Platz machte Neurowissenschaftlerin Prof. Dr. Maren Urner mit einem Impulsvortrag zum Thema Change the Mindset. Im Zentrum stand dabei die sogenannte Attitude-Behaviour-Gap und wie wir diese überwinden können. Prof. Dr. Urner riet zu einem positiven Mindset und zitierte dabei den US-amerikanischen Psychotherapeuten Steve de Shazer: „Über Porbleme zu reden, kreiert Probleme, über Lösungen zu reden, kreiert Lösungen.“

Im anschließenden Deepdive reflektierte sie in einer Runde mit Karin Ziegler von Blutsgeschwister und Lutz Dietzold vom German Design Council, warum Menschen anders handeln als sie beabsichtigen und wie sich unsere eigene Haltung, und damit die Haltung der ganzen Branche, in Zukunft noch stärker in unserem Verhalten widerspiegeln kann. Zu der Frage, ob echte Veränderung vom Individuum oder dem System ausgehen sollte, sagte Prof. Dr. Urner: „Es braucht beides: Eine individuelle und eine systemische Veränderung. Aber die systemische Veränderung kann nur gelingen, wenn wir individuell anfangen. Denn das System sind wir Menschen.“

Change Responsibilities – Lieferketten der Zukunft
„Viele Unternehmen berichten, dass Maßnahmen wie die UN-Leitprinzipien ihnen helfen, sich nachhaltig zu positionieren, zum Beispiel in den Bereichen Risikoanalyse und Monitoring.“ sagte Christine Moser-Priewich vom Grünen Knopf in dessen Panel Discussion zu unternehmerischen Sorgfaltspflichten mit Axel Schröder der Tchibo GmbH und Hannes Weber von Fond of. Axel Schröder ergänzte: „Der Grüne Knopf war für uns eine gute Lernreise in Vorbereitung auf die anstehenden Lieferkettengesetze.“

Change the System – Revolution des Handels
„Konsumentinnen und Konsumenten mit nachhaltigen Absichten haben eine schwere Zeit“, sagte Christian Salewski vom Research-Start-up Flip. „Sie können oft nicht zwischen grünen Marketing-Kampagnen und ehrlichen Absichten unterscheiden.“ In seinem Insight-Talk illustrierte er, wie Flip Konsument*innen im undurchsichtigen Nachhaltigkeitsmarkt unterstützen und für mehr Transparenz sorgen möchte. Als Beispiel gab er Einblicke hinter die Kulissen der Sneakerjagd, eines der in der Branche meistdiskutierten Videos des vergangenen Jahres, in dem Flip gemeinsam mit NDR, Die Zeit und prominenten Persönlichkeiten aufdeckte, dass Sneaker nicht immer so recycelt werden wie von den dahinter stehenden Brands angegeben. „Aus der Politik und von Verbaucherschützerinnen und -schützern haben wir das Feedback erhalten, dass unsere Recherche ein wichtiger Impuls war, um wieder Schwung in das Kreislaufwirtschaftsgesetz zu bringen.“

Abgerundet wurde die Fashionsustain City Edition mit einer Panel Discussion zum Thema Nachhaltigkeit am Point-of-Sale. Tanja Kliewe-Meyer von Like a Bird, Marco Schütte der EK Service Group und Frederik Gottschling vom Hessischen Handelsverband diskutierten, wie der Handel als Wissensvermittler dazu beitragen kann, Verbraucher*innen zu sensibilisieren und was das für die Belebung von Innenstädten bedeuten kann. „Wichtig ist es,“ so Tanja Kliewe-Meyer, „Erfahrungswelten zu schaffen, um Nachhaltigkeit in die Städte zu bringen. Die Zeiten der Monoläden durch die jedes Stadtzentrum gleich aussieht, sind vorbei.“

Change the perspective – on- und offline
Teilnehmer*innen konnten das internationale Konferenzformat der Neonyt im Rahmen der Frankfurt Fashion Week live vor Ort und digital verfolgen. In Frankfurt dabei waren unter anderem Vertreter*innen von Condé Nast Germany, Deutscher Fachverlag und FAZ, Hohenstein und Rat für Formgebung. Den Livestream verfolgten neben internationalen Modeinstituten wie dem German Design Council auch Unternehmensvertreter*innen von Breuniger, C&A, Closed, Gerry Weber, Givenchy/LVMH, Hallhuber, Hessnatur und Kastener & Öhler sowie die Redaktionen von Fashion United, Luxiders, RTL, Spiegel Online und TextilWirtschaft.

The Group CEO of Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited (IVL) has been ranked 12th in the Top 40 Power Players 2022 list announced by the leading chemical market information provider, Independent Commodity Intelligence Services (ICIS). The ranking consists of global CEOs and senior executives who are making the greatest positive impact on their companies and the chemical industry.

This recognition recognises Aloke Lohia’s distinction in leading IVL towards a more sustainable  and purposeful future. He is spearheading IVL’s efforts to meet its sustainability objectives, including strengthening its circular economy and PET recycling initiatives. The company pledged $1.5 billion in investments to meet green targets, including a commitment to increase its global PET recycling capacity to 750,000 tons per year by 2025.

In 2021, IVL announced it is building a facility in Karawang, Indonesia, to recycle almost 2 billion plastic bottles a year in support of the government’s plan to reduce ocean debris. The company also completed a new PNDA unit in Decatur, Alabama, USA, making it the world’s largest producer. IVL also agreed to acquire Brazil-based Oxiteno, a leading integrated surfactant producer.

The Top 40 Power Players list ranks leaders who demonstrate excellence and vision in the areas of ESG (Environmental, Social, and Governance), innovation, M&A/portfolio management, projects, and profitability/shareholder value. The ICIS also revealed that ESG and sustainability have increasingly played more vital roles in this year’s ranking as they are clearly key components for future growth.