From the Sector

As the product development process in the apparel industry continues to speed up, producers are looking for new fabric and accessory options outside of the traditional sourcing seasons. As such, with its added advantage of being located in the core area of China’s fashion industry and nearby Hong Kong, the popularity and importance of July’s Intertextile Pavilion Shenzhen has been growing within the apparel market in recent years. A number of renowned international and domestic brands, such as DKNY, Embry, FILA, Initial, Nine West Group, Peacebird, s.Oliver and many more, have already signed-up to attend this year’s fair, where they will source from around nearly 700 exhibitors.

“Once again this edition we are putting significant effort into inviting VIP buyers and matching them with our exhibitors, so we know that many key brand buyers will source at the fair again,” said Ms Wendy Wen, Senior General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd. “Last year the feedback from these buyers, such as Diesel, DKNY, KINJI and Marc O’Polo, was that they are consistently seeking new materials to develop new products throughout the entire year, therefore, they find Intertextile Pavilion Shenzhen increasingly beneficial to them, particularly because of its timing and high quality of products.”
One buyer already confirmed to attend, DKNY, sent its Fabric Manager Mr Patrick Chan to visit the fair last year, who praised the experience after his trip. “I’m satisfied with the quality of the suppliers and their products. I’ve found some potential suppliers in the Fine Japan Zone and received some samples. They provide high-quality fabrics with good design,” he said.

In May 2017, Jochen Adler, Vice-President and Chief Technology Officer at Oerlikon Textile GmbH & Co. KG, presented a Oerlikon Barmag take-up winder as a partial gift to Prof. Dr Thomas Gries, head of the Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) at RWTH Aachen University. The new Type ASW602 winder, which is equipped with modern control software and user interface, replaces the former institute’s Barmag take-up winder.

Due to this modernisation, ITA has access to a latest generation take-up winder which is used for various research projects. The new winder is applied at ITA’s two pilot melt spinning plants and ensures the transfer of new research and development insights into the pilot scale. Furthermore, this winder has two winding positions and operates with winding speeds between 2500 m/min and 5500 m/min. The new winder is suitable for all kinds of polymers, from polypropylene to polyethylene, polyester, polyamide etc. as well as for the production of several types of yarn, such as industrial yarn, pre-oriented yarn and fully-drawn yarn.
“We thank Oerlikon Barmag for the generous partial gifting and the support during the set-up of the new take-up winder”, says Prof. Dr Thomas Gries. “The new equipment will keep the institute’s machine park on a high and powerful level.” The head of ITA’s chemical fibre department Dr Thorsten Anders adds: “This winder is designed for the needs of chemical yarn research. It allows state of the art technology research and development and pilot-scale production. We will use it for the melt spinning plants in the single- and bi-component spinning process. This way, we can access a wide variety of producible yarn types.“

 ActiveSeam, Merrow's newest technology, is poised to revolutionize medical and compression garment manufacturing by replacing the traditional flatlock seam with a flatter, stronger stitch. The new Activeseam for Compression is set to be introduced in new product by a global medical device company in late 2017 or early 2018, leveraging Merrow's new MB-4DFO 2.5 series industrial sewing machine-- now available through regional distribution in 87 countries. Additionally, ActiveSeam is the world's first branded stitch, bringing a distinctive value to retail products.
Why is ActiveSeam great for medical and compression garments?

- With a flat profile and twice the stretch built into the seam, ActiveSeam garments are extraordinarily comfortable and do not restrict movement
- ActiveSeam replaces Flatlock with a stronger, more elastic, and infinitely more attractive seam construction that is ideal for specialized applications like Medical Compression garments
- When compared to a 6-thread flatlock seam with identical thread, fabric, and SPI, Merrow ActiveSeam 2 & 3-thread seams proved to be more than 30% stronger and had the ability to stretch (linear travel) 100% further
- ActiveSeam is almost undetectable when applied next to skin
- With more stretch built into the seam, the garment can be designed to fit the human body better without restricting athletic movement
ActiveSeam is uniquely suited for any application that entails a garment's seams be pressed against skin because of its extremely flat profile, flexibility, and unparalleled comfort. This is great news for anyone who utilizes compression wear, particularly compression garments or athletic apparel, as ActiveSeam substantially increases pliability and improves overall fit.

 Technical textile producers are invited to discover the diverse finishing and innovative customisation opportunities possible with BTT’s advanced, fully automated line for Polypropylene (PP), Polyethylene (PE) and Polyester (PES) woven fabrics and nonwovens.
BTT’s extrusion coating process can apply a wide range of polymers as a liquid layer – one-sided, two-sided or multi-layer – to make a fabric printable and/or achieve specific protective and functional performance, including waterproofing, flame resistance and antistatic properties. Optional UV stabilisation is also offered. Transparent and white transparent, standard white and black, and coloured coating options are available. Coatings range from minimum 25-30 g/m² up to 450 g/m². As well as standard widths, BTT offers extensive possibilities to customise lengths and widths, with supplementary cutting provided on a separate line with up to 6 cutters in width.

In addition to extrusion coating, BTT is also equipped for extrusion laminating to support the production of composite structures.
Franky Viaene, Global Sales Manager Beaulieu Technical Textiles, comments: “As an established leader and driving force in technical textiles, Beaulieu Technical Textiles supports a wide range of customers in varied markets, and our expertise extends right through to the finishing process. Our in-house extrusion capabilities are available to external customers and we offer close technical collaboration to ensure the optimal treatment for the desired result for their application. We’re looking forward to discussing new possibilities for the industry to benefit from our support, starting at Techtextil.”

As part of Messe Frankfurt’s renowned Intertextile brand, Intertextile Pavilion at the Shenzhen International Trade Fair for Apparel Fabrics and Accessories (“Intertextile Pavilion Shenzhen”) has a distinctive focus on the South China market, benefiting from this region’s promising market conditions and providing huge opportunities for exhibitors at this year’s fair.

Given its solid industrial bases and favourable geographic locations, the South China region is at the heart of China’s garment industry, and its one of its two major cities, Shenzhen, has a reputation as the nation’s garment and fashion capital. Currently, the city houses over 2,000 garment companies, 30,000 fashion designers and more than 1,000 fashion brands. In 2016, total sales of the Shenzhen garment industry exceed 200 billion RMB (around 29 billion USD), accounting for over 60% of the market share of shopping malls in China’s first-tier cities . What’s more, with reference to Hong Kong Trade Development Council’s “China Garment Industry” research, due to the growing spending power of both male and female consumers, these two markets are projected to continue their strong growth. While the consumer market for men’s garments is undergoing a growth period with retail sales expected to grow at a compound annual rate of 11.8% between 2015 and 2020, some domestic womenswear brands have started forging into the mid-range to high-end women’s garment market segments. The research also stated that most of the enterprises which own women’s garment brands such as Ellassay, Marisfrolg, Yinger and Koradior, are located in South China.

With less than four months to go before Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles takes place, the domestic market is showing strong signs of rejuvenation. China’s economy has stabilised recently, with 2016 GDP recording a 6.7% increase and reaching USD 10.7 trillion, while the National Bureau of Statistics also stated that the total sales of consumer goods last year rose 10.4% to nearly USD 4.8 trillion. Not only will the estimated 10 million couples getting married every year contribute to the strong demand for home textiles products, but the ascending living standards resulting from increased urbanisation together with the flourishing hospitality industry are also driving forces for the market. Apart from the domestic market, the Chinese home textiles industry is also actively opening up new markets around the world, particularly in the ASEAN region where exports continue to increase.

Along with the national 13th Five-Year Plan, the home textiles industry has also set its own development plan for the coming five years. Industry leaders, the China National Textile and Apparel Council and the China Home Textile Association, have announced that the home textiles industry is to be modernised by incorporating more innovative, technological and artistic elements. Annual growth of 5.5% and 3.2% for revenue and exports, respectively, are targeted, while automation is to be further promoted to enhance productivity.
Ms Wendy Wen, Senior General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd added that the prevalent whole-home trend in China will also stimulate the market as a whole. “More and more companies are starting to promote the whole-home concept which emphasises unified styles of decoration throughout the entire home to customers. Compared to demonstrating home textile products separately, showcasing whole-home furnishing is more appealing to Chinese buyers and will encourage sales. The synergy among products, especially those between home textile products and furniture is the emerging trend at present,” said Ms Wen.

LINGERIE becomes SMART with ROICA Cosabella premium lingerie brand with almost 2,000 styles of lingerie, daywear, loungewear, sleepwear and activewear sold in more than 100 countries. Cosabella chose Eco-Lace by Tessitura Colombo Antonio, a unique sustainable lace collection whose main premium stretch ingredient is ROICA™ Eco Smart by Asahi Kasei – the first and exclusive premium elastomer, sustainable and GRS certified (Global Recycle Standard by Textile Exchange) at international level.

DIESEL choose CUPRO Diesel presents its SS 2017 preview collection of 5 pure CUPRO pearl, washed finish silhouettes. CUPRO, by Asahi Kasei, is a refined, matchless material with an exquisite silk like touch. CUPRO is a matchless and original, new generation material made from the smart-tech transformation of cotton linter bio-utility waste, converted through a traceable and transparent closed loop process. Innovhub 3rd party lab test proves CUPRO can claim full biodegradability end of life option.

“These products reflect Archroma’s commitment to delivering responsible products and solutions, and underscore our key principle as a company that we continuously challenge the status quo in the deep belief that we can make our industry sustainable,” stated Miquel Vila, Head of Technical Service, Brand & Performance Textile Specialties, EMEA. At the booth, Archroma will highlight in particular the following solutions and innovations:

COLOR
Archroma will be displaying its Printofix TF high-performance pigment preparations for outdoor applications. These are mainly suited for synthetic fabrics that are specifically developed for sunshades, camping tents, umbrellas and industrial applications where other dyes cannot meet the very high requirements of light and weather fastness. Printofix TF pigment preparations are easy to handle and allow the creation of colors that can resist light, weather, ozone or heat.

FIRE PROTECTION
Archroma made a commitment back in 2011 to use only non-halogenated technologies for its global range of Pekoflam products. This range is ideally suited to help customers face today’s ecological challenges and fulfill ever stricter safety regulations, regardless of the application. The company’s non-halogenated portfolio includes select products that are assessed for compliance to labels such as GOTS or OEKO-TEX(1) Standard 100 and that are in line with today’s global requirements for industrial and consumer safety.

REPELLENCY & RELEASE
Archroma's innovative next-generation fluorochemical alternative is PFOA-free* C6 Nuva N supporting the switch away from long-chain fluorotelomer products that may contain PFOA (perfluorooctanoic acid). These products provide long-lasting and excellent repellency and release effects, are easy to handle and non-sensitive regarding compatibility with other finishing chemicals. They allow covering the full spectrum of repellency and release needs in technical textile applications.

They also can be combined with finishing specialties, such as Pekoflam fire retardants, Nuva N and Smartrepel release and repellence solutions, and Sanitized(2) antimicrobial products. These products allow for more sustainable, tailor-made coating solutions for applications such as technical textiles, automotive, nonwoven, personal protective equipment and sportswear. With its diverse selection of advanced, sustainable and customizable solutions, Archroma is ideally positioned as the system supplier of choice for textile mills and nonwoven manufacturers. As Miquel Vila puts it: “Visit us at Techtextil to learn more about products that offer cutting-edge functionality while also being safer and more environmentally friendly. It's our nature!”

An exciting new development, resulting from a Swiss collaboration between textile manufacturer Schoeller and auxiliaries and dyes specialists at Textilcolor. ecodye is a new auxiliary concept used, in particular, in polyester dyeing processes. The technology accelerates the dyeing process and contributes to cutting costs, while at the same time helping to preserve the environment with a low level of demand on resources.
Less time, less water, less energy – the new ecodye auxiliary concept allows eco-friendly and cost-saving dyeing processes for polyester yarns and piece goods. It shortens the heating phase, thus accelerating process time by more than 30 percent. At the same time, it reduces energy consumption by 20 percent and the water requirement by 25 percent, as the goods can be cleaned in the cooling dye bath.
In addition, ecodye improves the dyeing levelness in polyester textiles. Spots and dye agglomeration are almost completely avoided, and the precipitation on the goods that arises as a result of polyester oligomers are no longer evident. ecodye provides good shade stability and avoids reproduction problems from batch to batch, thus reducing the rate of double staining and increasing the capacity utilization and productivity of the dyeing mill on a long-term basis.

Following a successful launch phase, ecodye has already been able to provide numerous positive test results. The technology is being used by polyester-processing customers in categories including outdoor, sportswear and technical knitted fabrics, primarily in Europe, South and Middle America, Turkey, Bangladesh and China.