From the Sector

• Sales of CHF 1 418.6 million in the financial year 2023
• Order intake of CHF 541.8 million in the financial year 2023; order backlog of around CHF 650 million as of December 31, 2023
• EBIT margin of around 7% expected for the full year 2023 at the upper end of the guidance
• Market remains challenging

The Rieter Group closed the financial year 2023 with slightly lower sales than in the previous year. According to the first, unaudited figures, total sales of CHF 1 418.6 million were achieved, which is around 6% down on the previous year (2022: CHF 1 510.9 million). In line with expectations, the order intake of CHF 541.8 million was considerably below the previous year (2022: CHF 1 157.3 million). Rieter expects a positive EBIT margin of around 7% for the full year 2023 (2022: 2.1%).

Outlook
Rieter is operating in a challenging market environment due to the economic and geopolitical conditions as well as the continuing weak demand. There are initial signs of a market recovery visible for the financial year 2024. Rieter will present an outlook for the financial year 2024 at the annual results press conference on March 13, 2024.

Disney unveiled the HoloTile floor, created by Disney Research Fellow and longtime member of Walt Disney Imagineering Research & Development Lanny Smoot.

The HoloTile floor is a multi-person, omni-directional, modular, expandable, treadmill floor. It allows any number of people to have a shared virtual reality (VR) experience, walk an unlimited distance in any direction, and never collide or walk off its surface.

The HoloTile floor can also be an insert in a theatrical stage, allowing performers to move and dance in new ways, or stage props and structures to move around or appear to set themselves up.

The new technology was revealed (see here), as Lanny Smoot is being inducted into the National Inventors Hall of Fame. He is the first Disney Imagineer to receive this recognition.

Smoot is also credited with giving Madame Leota her ability to “float” in the Séance Room at the Haunted Mansion at Disneyland Park; crafting the state-of-the-art extendable lightsaber used by Disney Live Entertainment; inventing the Magic Playfloor interactive game experience on the Disney Cruise Line; producing the immersive Fortress Explorations adventure at Tokyo DisneySea; and designing the virtual and interactive koi ponds at the Crystal Lotus Restaurant at Hong Kong Disneyland Hotel.

SHIMA SEIKI ITALIA S.p.A., Italian subsidiary of leading Japanese computerized knitting solutions provider SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD., will exhibit at the 94th edition of the Pitti Immagine Filati exhibition in Florence, Italy (24th-26th January 2024). It will exhibit as part of the CustomEasy section, which involves the concept of Fashion at Work and explores customization in the presence of textile machinery and design software, represented in part by SHIMA SEIKI's lineup of WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machines and APEXFiz® design software.

The new SWG-XR® flagship machine features 4 needle beds for all-needle knitting of high quality WHOLEGARMENT® products using the company's original SlideNeedle™, in addition to a re-designed sinker system and a compact, light-weight carriage featuring 4 systems as well as auto yarn carriers. All contribute to increased productivity of more than 25% over the previous MACH2®XS machine, as well as increased product range using a wider variety of yarn for supporting knits for all seasons, and higher quality for knitting beautiful fabrics and silhouettes; even items that were impossible to knit with the MACH2® series, including punch-lace patterns, variable stitch knitting and intarsia knitting. Setting new standards for the next generation of waste-free, sustainable WHOLEGARMENT® knitting, SWG-XR® at Pitti Filati will be shown in 15L and 18L as well as a prototype machine in 22L.

APEXFiz® subscription-based design software supports the creative side of fashion from planning and design to colorway evaluation, realistic fabric simulation and 3D virtual sampling. Virtual samples are a digitized version of sample making that are accurate enough to be used effectively as prototypes. By replacing physical samples, virtual samples reduce time, cost and material that otherwise go to waste.

The product planning capability of APEXFiz® is enhanced by several web services featured as part of the SHIMA SEIKI Online Services (SHIMA online) web platform. These include SHIMA Datamall™ digital content web service that allows users to search, browse and purchase a variety of useful data for streamlining the planning and production of fashion items, as well as the recently renewed yarnbank® digital yarn sourcing web service that offers digitized yarn data by yarn companies from around the world for download and use in virtual sampling. SHIMANAVI® e-learning system is also part of the online platform.

Kunststoffrecyclingunternehmen können ab dem 1. Januar 2025 wieder Energiebeihilfen beantragen. Das teilte der bvse-Bundesverband Sekundärrohstoffe und Entsorgung in einem Mitgliederrundschreiben mit.

Nach den Erläuterungen fallen unter den förderungsfähigen Wirtschaftszweig 20.16 (Herstellung von Kunststoffen in Primärform) nun auch folgende Tätigkeiten der Kunststoffrecyclingbranche:

• Herstellung von Zellulose und ihren chemischen Derivaten,
• Herstellung von Kunstpulvern, -granulaten oder -flocken durch Compoundieren oder Umwandeln von Kunststoffharzen sowie aus wiedergewonnen Kunststoffabfällen,
• Herstellung von recyceltem Kunststoff in Flakes oder Kunststoffgranulaten auf Basis von vorbehandelten Kunststoffabfällen durch stoffliche Verwertungsverfahren.

Wie die bvse-Justiziarin Annette Reber erläuterte, hat die Klassifikation der Wirtschaftszweige neben statistischen Zwecken auch eine wichtige Bedeutung für die Bewilligung von Energiebeihilfen. Staatliche Energiebeihilfen dürfen, so Reber, nur den Unternehmen bewilligt werden, die zu den in den europäischen Leitlinien für staatliche Klima-, Umweltschutz- und Energiebeihilfen 2022 (KUEBLL) aufgeführten Wirtschaftszweigen gehören. Der Wirtschaftszweig 20.16. (Herstellung von Kunststoffen in Primärform) wird als förderungsfähig angesehen, der Wirtschaftszweig 38.31 (Rückgewinnung sortierter Werkstoffe) hingegen nicht.

Fashion for Good's Sorting for Circularity framework expands to address the challenge of ensuring rewearable textiles remain in use as opposed to finding their way into global waste streams or landfills. This 18-month project tests automated sorting technologies using artificial intelligence and machine learning to optimise the sorting of rewearable garments and enable greater circularity.

This project will test automated sorting technologies using machine learning and artificial intelligence (AI) to collect product information — such as colour, style, garment type, and quality. This will enable sorters and brands to make better decisions and sort efficiently based on product data and criteria from local, European, and export resale market requirements, thus optimising the flow of textiles to achieve their highest value potential.

To ensure accuracy and representation in capturing data on the flow of textiles within the EU and export markets, this project will focus on specific geographical regions: Lithuania (Nordic/Baltic), the Netherlands (Western), Poland (Central-Eastern), and Spain (Southern Europe).

The findings will be shared in a report with a supporting business case and implementation roadmap to inform investment decisions in infrastructure, Circular Business Models (CBM) and repair centres.

The Rewear Project builds on Fashion for Good’s Sorting for Circularity framework initiated in 2021 and subsequently launched in Europe, India and the United States harmonising the collection, sorting and recycling industries in order to advance textile-to-textile recycling technologies and the resale industry.

It is funded by brand partners adidas, BESTSELLER, Bonprix, C&A, Inditex, Levi Strauss & Co., Otto Group, PVH Corp., and Zalando. Circle Economy Foundation leads the creation and implementation of the methodology, with support from Consumption Research Norway, Oslo Metropolitan University and Revaluate.

TrusTrace, a SaaS company with for product traceability and compliance, has announced the completion of a (U.S.) $24 million growth investment led by Circularity Capital, a specialist investor in businesses that enable the circular economy, with participation from existing investors Industrifonden and Fairpoint Capital.

According to Shameek Ghosh, CEO and Co-Founder of TrusTrace, the new investment will enable the company to further accelerate its global expansion ambitions by strengthening its presence in key markets, deepening product innovation and expanding collaborations – helping to create a global network where all value chains are traceable, circular, and fair.

Traceability has accelerated in importance and momentum as a key enabler of sustainable transformation, as evidenced by TrusTrace’s five-fold growth in subscription revenue in the 27 months since the previous growth round by Fairpoint Capital and Industrifonden in 2021, preceded by seed funding from Backing Minds in 2019.

With more than a billion products now tracked through the platform, TrusTrace has established itself as a business-critical solution for supply chain traceability. TrusTrace customers include adidas, Brooks Running, Tapestry, Asics and many more. TrusTrace also plans to offer its services to regional and mid-size brands in 2024.

Mahlo GmbH + Co. KG will participate in the Colombiatex textile show, held in Medellin from 23 to 25 January. This year, Mahlo will be joining forces with Brückner Textile Technologies to present their solutions for the textile production sector at their joint booth.

Both companies appreciate the power of Colombia’s textile industry. Textile is one of the most important industrial sectors in the Latin American country with an export value of clothing of more than 600 million US dollars. The United States are also the main export destination for apparel products. At Colombiatex 2024, Mahlo's Head of Sales, Thomas Höpfl, will be present to share insights and discuss how Mahlo’s innovative technologies can address the specific challenges faced by Colombian textile manufacturers. Sustainability of process efficiency being among the most pressing ones.

From Resource-efficient and Recycled Fibres for Textiles and Building Panels to Geotextiles for Glacier Protection: Six award nominees present innovative and sustainable solutions for various industries in the cellulose fibre value chain. The full economic potential of the cellulose fibre industry will be introduced to a wide audience that will vote for the winners in Cologne (Germany), and online.

Again nova-Institute grants the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year” award in the context of the “Cellulose Fibres Conference”, that will take place in Cologne on 13 and 14 March 2024. In advance, the conferences advisory board nominated six remarkable products, including cellulose fibres from textile waste and straw, a novel technology for dying cellulose-based textiles and a construction panel as well as geotextiles. The innovations will be presented by the companies on the first day of the event. All conference participants can vote for one of the six nominees and the top three winners will be honoured with the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year” award. The Innovation award is sponsored by GIG Karasek (AT).

In addition, the ever-growing sectors of cellulose-based nonwovens, packaging and hygiene products offer conference participants insights beyond the horizon of traditional textile applications. Sustainability and other topics such as fibre-to-fibre recycling and alternative fibre sources are the key topics of the Cellulose Fibres Conference, held in Cologne, Germany, on 13 and 14 March 2024 and online. The conference will showcase the most successful cellulose-based solutions currently on the market or those planned for the near future.

The nominees:

The Straw Flexi-Dress: Design Meets Sustainability – DITF & VRETENA (DE)
The Flexi-Dress design was inspired by the natural golden colour and silky touch of HighPerCell® (HPC) filaments based on unbleached straw pulp. These cellulose filaments are produced using environmentally friendly spinning technology in a closed-loop production process. The design decisions focused on the emotional connection and attachment to the HPC material to create a local and circular fashion product. The Flexi-Dress is designed as a versatile knitted garment – from work to street – that can be worn as a dress, but can also be split into two pieces – used separately as a top and a straight skirt. The top can also be worn with the V-neck front or back. The HPC textile knit structure was considered important for comfort and emotional properties.

HONEXT® Board FR-B (B-s1, d0) – Flame-retardant Board made From Upcycled Fibre Waste From the Paper Industry – Honext Material (ES)
HONEXT® FR-B board (B-s1, d0) is a flame-retardant board made from 100 % upcycled industrial waste fibres from the paper industry. Thanks to innovations in biotechnology, paper sludge is upcycled – the previously “worthless” residue from paper making – to create a fully recyclable material, all without the use of resins. This lightweight and easy-to-handle board boasts high mechanical performance and stability, along with low thermal conductivity, making it perfect for various applications in all interior environments where fire safety is a priority. The material is non-toxic, with no added VOCs, ensuring safety for both people and the planet. A sustainable and healthy material for the built environment, it achieves Cradle-to-Cradle Certified GOLD, and Material Health CertificateTM Gold Level version 4.0 with a carbon-negative footprint. Additionally, it is verified in the Product Environmental Footprint.

LENZING™ Cellulosic Fibres for Glacier Protection – Lenzing (AT)
Glaciers are now facing an unprecedented threat from global warming. Synthetic fibre-based geotextiles, while effective in slowing down glacier melt, create a new environmental challenge: microplastics contaminating glacial environments. The use of such materials contradicts the very purpose of glacier protection, as it exacerbates an already critical environmental problem. Recognizing this problem, the innovative use of cellulosic LENZING™ fibres presents a pioneering solution. The Institute of Ecology, at the University of Innsbruck, together with Lenzing and other partners made first trials in 2022 by covering small test fields with LENZING™ fibre-based geotextiles. The results were promising, confirming the effectiveness of this approach in slowing glacier melt without leaving behind microplastic.

The RENU Jacket – Advanced Recycling for Cellulosic Textiles – Pangaia (UK) & Evrnu (US)
PANGAIA LAB was born out of a dream to reduce barriers between people and the breakthrough innovations in material science. In 2023, PANGAIA LAB launched the RENU Jacket, a limited edition product made from 100% Nucycl® – a technology that recycles cellulosic textiles by breaking them down to their molecular building blocks, and reforming them into new fibres. This process produces a result that is 100% recycled and 100% recyclable when returned to the correct waste stream – maintaining the strength of the fibre so it doesn’t need to be blended with virgin material.
Through collaboration with Evrnu, the PANGAIA team created the world’s first 100% chemically recycled denim jacket, replacing a material traditionally made from 100% virgin cotton. By incorporating Nucycl® into this iconic fabric construction, dyed with natural indigo, the teams have demonstrated that it’s possible to replace ubiquitous materials with this innovation.

Textiles Made from Easy-to-dye Biocelsol – VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland (FI)
One third of the textile industry’s wastewater is generated in dyeing and one fifth in finishing. But the use of chemically modified Biocelsol fibres reduces waste water. The knitted fabric is made from viscose and Biocelsol fibres and is only dyed after knitting. This gives the Biocelsol fibres a darker shade, using the same amount of dye and no salt in dyeing process. In addition, an interesting visual effect can be achieved. Moreover, less dye is needed for the darker colour tone in the finished textile and the possibility to use the salt-free dyeing is more environmentally friendly.
These special properties of man-made cellulosic fibres will reassert the fibres as a replacement for the existing fossil-based fibres, thus filling the demand for more environmentally friendly dyeing-solutions in the textile industry. The functionalised Biocelsol fibres were made in Finnish Academy FinnCERES project and are produced by wet spinning technique from the cellulose dope containing low amounts of 3-allyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl substituents. The functionality formed is permanent and has been shown to significantly improve the dyeability of the fibres. In addition, the functionalisation of Biocelsol fibres reduces the cost of textile finishing and dyeing as well as the effluent load.

A New Generation of Bio-based and Resource-efficient Fibre – TreeToTextile (SE)
TreeToTextile has developed a unique, sustainable and resource efficient fibre that doesn't exist on the market today. It has a natural dry feel similar to cotton and a semi-dull sheen and high drape like viscose. It is based on cellulose and has the potential to complement or replace cotton, viscose and polyester as a single fibre or in blends, depending on the application.
TreeToTextile Technology™ has a low demand for chemicals, energy and water. According to a third party verified LCA, the TreeToTextile fibre has a climate impact of 0.6 kg CO2 eq/kilo fibre. The fibre is made from bio-based and traceable resources and is biodegradable.

Der Referentenentwurf des Bürokratieentlastungsgesetzes sieht die Reduktion von Schriftformerfordernissen vor – gehe im Arbeitsrecht aber nicht weit genug, so der südwestdeutsche Arbeitgeberverband.

Am 11. Januar 2024 hat das Bundesministerium für Justiz seinen Referentenentwurf des Vierten Gesetzes zur Bürokratieentlastung (BEG IV-E) veröffentlicht. Der Entwurf sieht auch Gesetzesänderungen im Bereich des Nachweisgesetzes vor.

Die von Südwesttextil bereits im letzten Jahr geforderte Nachbesserung des Eckpunktepapiers findet sich im Referentenentwurf nicht wieder. Aus Perspektive des Arbeitgeberverbands gehen die vorgesehenen Änderungen nicht weit genug. Im Referentenentwurf wird weiterhin lediglich die elektronische Form als Ersatz für die Schriftform vorgesehen.

Die schriftliche Aushändigung der wesentlichen Arbeitsbedingungen kann somit weiterhin nur unterbleiben, wenn ein Arbeitsvertrag in elektronischer Form abgeschlossen worden ist. Um den Formvorgaben des Nachweisgesetzes zu genügen, reicht die Textform also weiterhin nicht. Südwesttextil-Hauptgeschäftsführerin Edina Brenner betont die Position des Verbands: „Im Arbeitsrecht lässt die Bundesregierung eine signifikante Stellschraube der Bürokratieentlastung aus. Die praktische Reduktion des Aufwands durch die elektronische Form geht nicht weit genug und könnte durch die Zulassung der im Geschäftsverkehr üblichen und anerkannten Textform signifikant erhöht werden. Die Nachbesserung des Referentenentwurfs ist für einen echten Bürokratieabbau dringend geboten.“

Software group Everfield has acquired the Swedish software reseller “SoCom Scandinavia AB” (SoCom Scandinavia). The previously independent reseller is now a subsidiary of German “SoCom Informationssysteme GmbH” (SoCom), which Everfield acquired early 2023. SoCom Scandinavia distributes SoCom’s ERP system for the commercial laundry industry in Scandinavia. SoCom is among Europe’s leading providers in this segment and with this acquisition is further expanding its market position in the Nordic countries.

“By acquiring SoCom Scandinavia, we have successfully completed the first so-called bolt-on acquisition for one of our portfolio companies”, says Oscar Koberling, Acquisitions Manager at Everfield. In a bolt-on acquisition, the company being purchased is integrated into an existing portfolio company. “We focus on long-term sustainable growth and work closely with the management of our portfolio companies to identify the right targets”, Koberling highlights. “With the addition of SoCom Scandinavia, SoCom can now further strengthen the sales and support in this region and thereby continue to foster growth in Scandinavia.” With its Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP) software “TIKOS”, the German software developer SoCom from Krumbach enables laundries of any scale to achieve end-to-end process management.

SoCom Scandinavia distributes the “TIKOS” laundry software in Sweden, Finland, Norway, Denmark and Iceland. The company was founded in 2017 by the sole shareholder Anna Johansson, in close cooperation with the German SoCom Informationssysteme GmbH. “I myself come from the commercial laundry industry and was therefore able to convince myself of the performance and flexibility of the TIKOS software in practice”, says Anna Johansson. “Our success in the past years shows that many laundries in Scandinavia share this assessment. In the future, we will work even more closely with our German colleagues to further expand our market share in the region.”

Johansson and her team will continue to be available to customers at the existing location. “Since establishing SoCom Scandinavia, Anna and her team have already won and supported a plethora of well-known clients for our software”, emphasizes SoCom’s CEO Michael Wieser. “By integrating SoCom Scandinavia, we can streamline our processes even further. Our main goal remains to offer the best possible service to our clients.”

With its steadily growing software and service portfolio, SoCom has been operating in the laundry industry for over thirty years and is a market leader in the German-speaking region. In total, SoCom’s products are used in over 350 laundries across 17 countries.