From the Sector

Teijin Carbon Europe introduces a new thermoplastic carbon fiber tape (TPUD) based on PPS. The new Tenax™ TPUD with PPS matrix allows entry in new cost-sensitive markets while offering the typical TPUD advantages like high resistance to chemicals and solvents, low flammability, storage or shipping at room temperature and recyclability.  

Due to its flame retardant properties and low smoke emission, it can be used in interior applications of aircraft or rail vehicles, among others. The maximum continuous operating temperature is up to 220 °C. Very low water absorption, excellent creep resistance even at elevated temperatures and high dimensional stability round off the property portfolio of this new TPUD. It is therefore also suitable for demanding applications in the aerospace, oil & gas, sporting goods or industrial sectors, while remaining cost-effective. These properties make the product perfect for highly automated processing routes such as ATL or AFP in combination with overmolding for complex geometries. Production start for the Tenax™ TPUD with PPS matrix is the first quarter in 2021.

For almost 10 years, unidirectional tapes (TPUD) have been manufactured from carbon fibers and thermoplastics in Heinsberg, Germany. The semi-finished products have so far been offered with PEEK or PAEK – and PPS is now added to the list of available matrixes. PPS allows a lower process temperature compared to PEEK or PAEK. For the industrial market in particular, increasing the production rate to make processes more cost-efficient is an opportunity.

“The consequences of the ongoing pandemic spread of the coronavirus continue to govern our personal and professional lives. It is with a heavy heart that we must cancel the physical events in July, since these are not allowed to take place given the current legal constraints. Due to the lack of certainty for planning and new monthly evaluation we need to fulfil our obligations as event organiser and avoid unforeseeable risks for partners and clients.” Anita Tillmann, Managing Partner of the PREMIUM GROUP

A lack of permissions, adjustments to official measures at short notice, travel restrictions within Europe and overseas, potential quarantine obligations, short-term work in many companies – overall, a volatile situation makes it impossible to press ahead with the necessary planning in a responsible, risk-free way, especially for the exhibitors and partners.

Because of this, the organizers are now forced to cancel SEEK, PREMIUM and FASHIONTECH events in July 2021 and move them to January 2022 instead. Safeguarding the health and safety of exhibitors, guests, partners and employees always takes top priority.

SEEK and PREMIUM are live events and therefore spaces for engaging with others face-to-face. They are a vital meeting point for the whole industry that can only be augmented by our digital offerings. Under the current unpredictable conditions the usual levels of service cannot be guaranteed for clients and visitors.

July will see the start of Frankfurt Fashion Week (FFW) digital. Frankfurt Fashion Week Studio is the core element of the FFW opening season and encompasses the whole FFW ecosystem – with its key themes of Fashion Business, sustainability and digitisation – in the form of a digital portal.

FFW Studio is a progressively curated and staged platform that brings together all German fashion trade shows, conferences, fashion experiences and events under one roof for the first time. First as a digital venue, then as a hybrid one. For pioneers, brands, experiences, entertainment and networking.

“Over the past year we have felt a great sense of solidarity. The industry has given us enormous encouragement and the assurance that we are not only missed but needed. So we want to say thank you from the bottom of our hearts! We can't wait to get together in a few short months’ time to present concepts and projects, meet up face-to-face, and shape the future together. Now more than ever!” Anita Tillmann, Managing Partner of the PREMIUM GROUP   

ISKO announced the launch of bluesign® APPROVED fabrics. The only denim mill in Europe with bluesign® APPROVED fabrics, and one of the highest achievement’s in sustainability. This won honour is only awarded to those that meet the strict safety and environmental requirements of the bluesign® CRITERIA. These certified articles are made from bluesign® APPROVED chemicals and raw materials, and are manufactured with a minimum impact on people and the environment. This enables brands to provide safe products to their consumers, verified as bluesign® PRODUCT, which are sustainably produced without hazardous chemicals.

“When the goal is big, the effort is big. Choosing the right partner means taking safe steps. In this sense, I can gladly say that we will continue on our way with the bluesign® chemical followup process.” – Ebru ÖZKÜÇÜK, Head of Sustainability ISKO.

Through this partnership and certification, ISKO and bluesign® continue their vision of a textile and fashion industry with a future that focuses more attention on people and the environment, because only when both are considered can the industry truly make a positive, long-lasting impact.

• The new platform created for b2b / b2c online sales entirely dedicated to the business of denim.

The year 2020 witnessed an acceleration in the importance of online sales. It is now clear to anyone involved the business of sales that e-commerce represents the future.

That’s when the creative idea by Laura Pianazza, founder of DENIMAZING (combination of DENIM and AMAZING), was launched on the platform powered by VELVET.  Its prime objective is to help small and medium sized companies to increase their online sales, focusing on the development of marketing strategies in an omnichannel environment thanks to an intelligent balance between technology and professional experience.

Laura Pianazza derives her professional experience from the editorial sector, where she was active for many years on a European level for a trade magazine specialized in the denim business. Thanks to this background, she was able to develop a strong network of contacts with entrepreneurs, top management and marketing agencies. Her constant interaction with customers shed light on the digital challenges present in most Italian companies: firstly, the fragmentation of services offered online and, secondly, the lack of integration between technology and marketing strategies. The latter is the one most often neglected by firms and Laura recognized many risked not being well prepared for this transformational shift in business by investing little time and at a slow pace.

The DENIMAZING project works side by side with denim fabric manufacturing companies (b2b), finished product brands and distribution companies (b2c), all with the same common denominator: denim. A unique service assisting raw materials manufacturers in finding market niches in companies that create product, who in their own right would like their brand to be seen and sold to a growing customer base. In the b2b landscape, companies can sell their own fabrics by the meter thanks to their own 3D presentation and customers can virtually visit their showrooms. Similarly, brands will have the same possibility to sell their creations as on a real e-commerce site, thanks to virtual tours in their showroom and specific areas for sales and/or chatting/videocalls with end-customers. Instead, for companies providing supply chain services (coloring, washing, etc.), individual virtual rooms will be made available inside the marketplace, in order to speak directly with sales managers from brands and the fabric companies.

The business side is just one aspect of this project. Thanks to its partnership with the marketing and online sales agency VELVET, DENIMAZING grows based upon a series of key tasks during different phases, namely: platform construction, marketing and advertising, both traditional and via web and social medias.

Not only has Laura has added a series of high-level technology/web master courses to her experience, but DENIMAZING also brings together a team of qualified professionals having a longtime experience in different fields of the denim business: sales, entrepreneurs, web design and marketing, while the end-customer will be in direct contact with the headquarters for assistance, customer care and updates.

• Mimaki präsentiert Besuchern neue Produktinnovationen und die leistungsstarke, kostengünstige 100er Serie auf der virtuellen drupa 

Mimaki Europe, ein führender Hersteller von Inkjetdruckern und Schneideplottern, gab heute bekannt, dass auf der allerersten virtuellen drupa (20.-23. April 2021) seine innovativen Digitaldrucktechnologien zu sehen sein werden. Im Mittelpunkt des interaktiven Stands von Mimaki wird die brandneue „100er Serie“ stehen – neben Neuheiten in seinem Portfolio von leistungsstarken Produkten, die auf der Messe erstmals präsentiert werden. Außerdem wird Mimaki auf der virtuellen drupa eine Sonderaktion für ausgewählte Produkte starten, um seine Produktpalette noch attraktiver für Unternehmen zu machen, die ihr Angebot in diesen schwierigen Zeiten diversifizieren möchten.

Im Einklang mit dem Ziel der virtuellen drupa, die Branche bei der Kontaktpflege, Erweiterung ihrer Netzwerke und Generierung von Leads in diesen schwierigen Zeiten zu unterstützen, will Mimaki diese Veranstaltung nutzen, um seine neuesten Digitaldrucklösungen zur Erschließung neuer Geschäftsfelder und zahlreiche Anwendungsmöglichkeiten zu präsentieren. „Als Reaktion auf die aktuellen Umstände der COVID-19-Pandemie müssen wir uns alle anpassen und zusammenhalten, um diese schwierige Situation zu meistern“, so Danna Drion, Marketing Manager bei Mimaki EMEA. „In den letzten 12 Monaten hat Mimaki alle erdenklichen Anstrengungen unternommen, um Stammkunden und potenzielle Kunden mit virtuellen informativen Veranstaltungen und Gelegenheiten zum Networking dabei zu unterstützen, die Auswirkungen und Herausforderungen der COVID-19-Pandemie zu bewältigen. Online-Veranstaltungen bleiben auch weiterhin ein zentraler Bestandteil unserer Strategie. Vor diesem Hintergrund bietet die virtuelle drupa eine gute Gelegenheit für den Wissens- und Erfahrungsaustausch und die Motivation von Druckdienstleistern, mit uns gemeinsam neue Wege für ihre Expansion zu finden.“

Die Rollendrucker der neuesten „100er Serie“ gehören zu den technischen Highlights auf der virtuellen drupa und sollen den Geschäftserfolg trotz der aktuellen Marktunsicherheit fördern. Sie zeichnen sich durch Produktivität, Zuverlässigkeit und Flexibilität zur Diversifizierung des Anwendungsbereichs aus und bieten ein attraktives Preis-Leistungsverhältnis. Die 100er Serie umfasst drei Modelle, die alle mit verschiedenen Kerntechnologien von Mimaki ausgestattet sind, wie NCU (Nozzle Check Unit), NRS (Nozzle Recovery System) und DAS (Dot Adjustment System).

• Mimaki JV100-160: Dieser Eco-Solvent-Rollendrucker für das Einstiegssegment ermöglicht den hochwertigen Lösemitteldruck bei denkbar niedrigen Betriebskosten. Der JV100-160 nutzt die neu entwickelte, schnell trocknende Eco-Solvent-Tinte „AS5“. Als Tintenkonfigurationen werden 4-Farb-Modus (CMYK) im Doppelmodus sowie 8-Farb-Druck mit zusätzlichem Light Cyan (Lc), Light Magenta (Lm), Orange (Or) und Light Schwarz (Lk) angeboten. Selbst bei starkem Farbauftrag erzeugt die neue AS5-Tinte ein harmonisches, fein durchzeichnetes Druckbild von geringer Körnigkeit. Aufgrund ihrer hohen Kratzfestigkeit und Witterungsbeständigkeit ist sie ideal für vielfältige Innen- und Außenanwendungen.
• Mimaki UJV100-160: Dieser UV-Rollendrucker vereint hohe Produktivität, extrem hohe Vielseitigkeit und Druckgeschwindigkeit. Er arbeitet mit der kostengünstigen, sofort aushärtenden UV-Tinte „LUS-190“, die für kürzere Produktionszeiten ohne Entgasungsphase nach dem Druck sorgt. Die LUS-190 kann nicht nur PVC, sondern auch unbeschichtete Substrate, wie PET-Folie oder Papier, bedrucken. Dieses System ist die ideale Lösung für den Einstieg in die UV-Drucktechnologie.
• Mimaki TS100-1600: Der Textildrucker TS100-1600 bietet eine preisgünstige, hochwertige Lösung für Druckdienstleister, die in den digitalen Sublimationsdruck einsteigen und ihre Produktionskapazität erweitern möchten. Er hat eine Druckbreite von 1.600 mm mit einer Geschwindigkeit von 70 m2/h im schnellsten Modus. 1-Liter-Tintenbehälter im TS100-1600 sorgen für geringere Betriebskosten und ermöglichen aufgrund der geringeren Austauschfrequenz einen stabilen, kontinuierlichen Betrieb. Der TS100-1600 ist für den Einsatz in mehreren Bereichen hervorragend geeignet, wie für Mode, Soft Signage, Innendesign, Sportbekleidung und personalisierte Objekte.

Im Rahmen seines langfristigen Engagements zur Förderung der Innovation im Digitaldruck wird Mimaki auch zwei brandneue Drucksysteme auf der virtuellen drupa vorstellen. Ausgestattet mit innovativen Funktionen zum Bedrucken von Sonderformaten und speziellen Substraten sollen diese bahnbrechenden Systeme neue Anwendungsmöglichkeiten für den Großformatdruck und die Modebranche eröffnen. Selbstverständlich werden Experten von Mimaki zur Verfügung stehen, um interessierten Fachbesuchern einen Einblick in die 3D-Farbdrucktechnologie des Unternehmens und relevante Anwendungsmöglichkeiten zu geben.

„Auf der virtuellen drupa werden wir unser umfassendes Sortiment an bahnbrechenden Technologien präsentieren und so unser klares Bekenntnis zur Bereitstellung hochwertiger Produkte für die Industrie unter Beweis stellen. Aufgrund unserer Flexibilität, Zukunftsorientierung und langjährigen Erfahrung in der Forschung und Entwicklung können wir uns schnell an geänderte Marktbedingungen und Kundenanforderungen anpassen, um unsere Systeme kontinuierlich zu verbessern oder innovative neue Systeme zu entwickeln“, erklärt Drion. „Die 100er Serie zeichnet sich nicht nur durch hohe Effizienz und Qualität aus, sondern bietet auch die notwendige Flexibilität für vielfältige Druckanwendungen – angefangen von farbenfrohen Tapeten bis zu hochwertigen Werbeschildern. Außerdem werden die auf der Messe präsentierten Neuzugänge neue Maßstäbe in ihrem jeweiligen Marktsegment setzen.“

• Several members of TMAS – the Swedish Textile Machinery Association – are actively advancing new coloration technologies as part of a wave of innovation that is currently sweeping out from Scandinavia.

New manufacturers of regenerated cellulosic fibers as alternatives to cotton and synthetics, for example, have been gaining a lot of attention recently, as they scale up to meet demands for a circular approach to the manufacturing of textiles and garments.

These companies have, in turn, been embraced by major Scandinavian brands such as the Danish clothing company Bestseller, Finnish fashion house Marimekko, Norwegian outdoor brand Bergans and Sweden’s own H&M Group.

Fiber journey
From the field or the forest to the retail shelves, however, the journey of every single textile fiber is currently a long one, in which it passes through many hands and moves around the world. The good news is that many of these individual stages are now being greatly simplified by digitalization.

“Digitalization will lead to a significant reduction in garments that for one reason or another are never sold and end up in landfill,” says Therese Premler-Andersson, Secretary General of TMAS. “There will of course, be a huge ecological benefit.”

At the very center of any fiber’s journey, once it has become part of a knitted or woven fabric, are the dyeing and finishing stages of textile production. Dyeing and finishing currently involves many washing and drying process steps which add a huge burden to the overall carbon footprint of finished garments and textile products.

Coloreel expansion
Here is where the latest fully digital technologies of TMAS member companies are making a dramatic difference, such as the instant thread coloration technology, of Coloreel, which has just raised SEK 100 in new financing to support its market expansion and growth.

Initially targeting the embroidery market, Coloreel technology enables the high-quality and instant coloring of a textile thread while it is actually being used in production and can be paired with any existing embroidery machine without modification, while also making it possible to produce gradients in an embroidery for the first time.

Based on a CMYK ink system, Coloreel’s advanced rapid color formulation software and high-speed drive technology allow a single needle to carry out what previously required many multiples of them to do – and with much more consistent stitch quality,

In addition, existing thread dyeing plants can add a single solid color to a thread, but by instantly coloring a white base thread during production, Coloreel enables complete freedom to create unique embroideries without any limitations in the use of colors. Color changes along the thread can either be made rapidly from one solid color to another, or gradually, to make smooth transitions or any coloring effect desired.

This provides big benefits when it comes to sustainability. There is a significant reduction in wasted inks, while water usage is minimized, and production speeds are increased. The technology allows set-up and lead times to be reduced as well as significant flexibility in production schedules, while eliminating the need for large thread inventories.

“Our system is allowing customers to achieve color effects that have never been seen before – and at a new level of efficiency,” says VP of Sales and Marketing at Coloreel, Mats Sjögren. “We are setting the new benchmark for the embroidery industry.”

Despite the Covid-19 pandemic, Coloreel, has recently successfully delivered units to companies in Europe, the United States and Asia, and has also partnered with the world’s largest distributor of embroidery machines, American Hirsch Solutions, which has already installed the technology at a number of customers in the USA.

imogo
Another TMAS member achieving rapid progress is imogo, which is currently installing its first industrial scale Dye-Max spray dyeing line at the plant close to Borås of Swedish commission dyeing company 7H Färgeri – the Nordic region’s most complete dyeing and processing plant.

The new line has a working width of 1.8 meters with an operating speed of up to 50 meters for the reactive dyeing of cellulosic fiber-based fabrics. In addition, it can carry out the application of a wide range of fabric pre-treatments and finishing processes, providing the company with unbeatable flexibility in production.

A proven Mini-Max laboratory unit for pre-determining application volumes and color matching has also been installed at the 7H plant.

With the potential to slash the use of fresh water, wastewater, energy, and chemicals by as much as 90% compared to conventional jet dyeing systems, the DyeMax has gained considerable attention since the concept was outlined and a prototype machine constructed in 2019.

The application unit of the Dye-Max consists of a closed chamber containing a series of spray cassettes with precision nozzles for accurate and consistent coverage, in combination with the patented imogo Pro Speed valve that controls the volume to be applied.

“We are achieving an extremely low liquor ratio of around 0.5-1 liters per kilo of fabric and we fully control the pickup, applying precisely what is required to the specific fabric,” says imogo founding partner Per Stenflo. “Compared to traditional padders there is no contamination of the dyebath or dilution of the dye liquor to worry about.”
Fast changeovers with virtually no waste, together with a high production speed, enable a high productivity and unmatched production flexibility.

“The Dye-Max will be implemented in 7H daily production and producers and brands are welcome to visit when the Covid-19 situation allows. They are also welcome to do test productions at 7H to verify the performance on their fabrics.”

Perfect bridge
“Such new digital technologies from TMAS members represent the perfect bridge for sustainable new fibers on their route to the finished garments of responsible brands on the retail shelves,” concludes Therese Premler-Andersson. “There is now a real momentum building industry-wide for new circular manufacturing, and TMAS companies intend to be very much a part of it.”

Kornit Digitala announced Valencia, Spain-based Rafa’s Textiles has acquired a third Kornit Avalanche HD6 system for single-step, on-demand direct-to-garment (DTG) digital production, spurred by business growth resulting from increased e-commerce engagement in the past year.

Rafa’s Textiles personalizes t-shirts and all kinds of clothing with screen printing, direct (digital) printing, silkscreen transfer, sublimation, and embroidery, serving European-based B2B clients who sell via web stores, both integrated with Amazon and independently. There are no colour limitations, and handfeel and durability are retail-quality. On a typical day, they will handle 200-300 print-on-demand orders, though those numbers spike with key holidays; this past Christmas, for example, saw a peak of 1,300 orders in a single day. Regardless of volume, with digital production capabilities in house, these orders are printed individually within 24 hours and shipped directly to all customers.

For Rafa’s Textiles, implementing Kornit’s digital production technology was simply the best means to meeting the challenges and capitalizing on new opportunities of the e-commerce age. Sergio attributes his business’s success despite recent market disruptions to their focus on e-commerce, which aligns with buyers’ increased preference for web-based purchasing.

With their recently installed high-temperature unidirectional tape line, Japan-based composites manufacturer MaruHachi enables new opportunities for high-end applications in demanding market segments like aerospace, automotive or others outperforming traditional materials based on PP and PA which are already widely available.

In the first phase, MaruHachi will produce up to 40 tons/year and focuses now specifically on high-temperature thermoplastic uni-directional (UD) tapes and multi-layer sheet laminates. The material is based on high-performance fibers like carbon, aramid, glass or natural fibers and the matrix can be high-performance polymers like PPS, PEEK or other higher temperature polymers, which are much tougher than epoxies and easy to recycle. With a width of 500 mm, a specific weight from 60 to 350 g/m2, depending on the chosen material, the lines can operate under temperatures up to 420 degrees Celsius. Working under these extremely high temperatures allows for better material properties of the final application, higher performance, increased resistance and integrated high-performance functionalities e.g. by overmoulding.

Since 2017, MaruHachi Group is active in the European market in cooperation with Dr. Michael Effing,the CEO of AMAC GmbH, who advises and supports the company strategically. The established, family-owned MaruHachi Group has a strong history in automotive and medical textiles and has been active in the innovative composites market for more than 15 years.

Toshi Sugahara, CEO of MaruHachi: “For many years, we have already been cooperating with domestic and international partners on high-demand applications and therefore, MaruHachi decided now to invest over 1 million EUR in this new line in phase 1, including a funding participation from the Japanese government NEDO. New developments in phase 2 will be be undertaken by end of 2021 on the downstream technologies like the automated preforming and consolidation. With our new products, we want to contribute to significant weight reductions of the final products, thus improve energy efficiency while offering a cost-efficient and high-quality solution.”

Dr. Effing, CEO of AMAC GmbH confirms: „The focus on the niche of high-temperature products based on PPS and PEEK allows MaruHachi on very demanding high-end applications such as structural frames on space and aircrafts, aircraft seats or engine components etc. The tapes are fully recyclable and can be processed e.g. with high-speed with laser-based tape placement machines and robots.”

Kornit Digital is named among 29 winners of the 2020 EDP Awards, presented by the European Digital Press Association (EDP). The company’s NeoPigment™ Robusto Softener solution, which ensures superior hand feel for substrates imprinted using the Kornit Presto system for roll-to-roll, direct-to-fabric digital production, was selected “Best Coating and Varnish” in the Consumables category.

Kornit’s Softener solution is applied seamlessly during the printing process. No additional time, labor, or equipment is needed, and most importantly, it is a sustainable solution carrying Eco Passport certification and GOTS verification.
“Kornit Presto with Softener is changing the game for on-demand production, making pigment-based digital print a serious contender for even the most demanding fashion houses,” says Chris Govier, KDEU Managing Director. “Kornit is proud to be recognized for its innovations, and we strive to continue exceeding the market’s demands for efficient, eco-friendly, profitable solutions regardless of the new trends and challenges facing the textile industry.”

Reflecting the pandemic-related drop in worldwide vehicle production, Autoneum’s revenue in local currencies fell by –18.7% in 2020, although the second half of the year saw a significant market recovery. Group revenue in Swiss francs fell by –24.2% year-on-year to CHF 1 740.6 million. For the full year 2020, the EBIT margin will be around 1.5% and the free cash flow slightly over CHF 100 million.
At the Annual General Meeting on March 25, 2021, the Board of Directors will propose Liane Hirner and Oliver Streuli for election to the Board of Directors of Autoneum Holding. Peter Spuhler will not stand for re-election.

At 74.5 million, the number of light vehicles produced globally in 2020 was down –16.2% compared to the previous year, where around 89 million vehicles were manufactured. Autoneum’s revenue in local currencies decreased by –18.7% in 2020, pretty much in line with the negative market dynamics. The somewhat stronger decline of revenue compared to the market results from a lower share of Asia in Autoneum's total revenue. Impacted by the appreciation of the Swiss franc against the most important currencies for Autoneum, the consolidated revenue dropped in 2020 by –24.2% to CHF 1 740.6 million. The heterogeneous development of the first and second half of the year was characteristic for the pandemic-driven automotive year 2020. Worldwide lockdowns and production stoppages at vehicle manufacturers led to a market slump in the first six months and a corresponding loss in revenue for Autoneum. Thanks to the subsequent market recovery and catch-up effects in the second half of the year, revenue improved considerably compared to the first half of the year.

Revenue development in Asia and SAMEA region significantly better than market
While revenues in local currencies of the highest-volume Business Groups Europe and North America decreased by –25.6% and –19.3% respectively, reflecting the regional, pandemic-driven market development (Europe: –22.9%; North America: –20.1%), Business Group Asia almost held its prior-year level with an organic decline of only –2.1% in 2020 thanks to the strong upturn in automobile production in China in the second half of the year and despite the fact that the number of vehicles produced in Asia fell by –11.4%.*

Personnel changes to the Board of Directors
At the Annual General Meeting on March 25, 2021, the Board of Directors of Autoneum Holding will propose Liane Hirner and Oliver Streuli for election as new members of the Board of Directors.
Liane Hirner has been CFO and member of the Management Board of Vienna Insurance Group, based in Vienna, Austria, since 2018.*

Oliver Streuli, a Swiss national, has been CEO of PCS Holding, based in Frauenfeld (Canton Thurgau), Switzerland, since 2019.*

Peter Spuhler has been a member of the Board of Directors of Autoneum since 2011 and will not stand for re-election at the Annual General Meeting on March 25, 2021.*

*See attached document for further informationen