From the Sector

Archroma introduced Super Systems+. These end-to-end systems combine fiber-specific processing solutions and intelligent effects to help textile and apparel brands, retailers and mills positively impact their economic and environmental sustainability.

Archroma’s Super Systems+ suite encompass wet processing solutions that deliver measurable environmental impact; durable colors and functional effects that add value and longevity to the end product; and technologies that eliminate harmful or regulated substances. It will allow brands and mills to achieve their desired level of sustainability through measurable resource savings and cleaner chemistries.

Products and technologies that are be used in Super Systems+ solutions include: AVITERA® SE for resource savings, an improved cost-to-performance ratio for cotton and its blends and chlorine fastness; DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK for shade and wash-down effects on black denim and an overall impact reduction of 57%*; aniline-free** DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 LIQ for authentic blue denim; ERIOPON® E3-SAVE all-in-one auxiliary for resource-intensive polyester dyeing that reduces processing time and conserves water and energy; and PHOBOTEX® NTR-50 LIQ for bio-based, PFAS-free, formaldehyde-free and crosslinker-free durable water repellence.

*As determined by Ecoterrae, a leading Spain-based sustainability consulting firm, through a Life Cycle Analysis (UNE-EN ISO 14044:2006) at the synthesis stage, using the ReCiPe 2016 Impact calculation methodology.
**Below limits of detection according to industry standard test methods.

• Limited-edition capsule features apparel and footwear for men and women inspired by Bing Crosby’s popular Clambake event and the fashion surrounding it

In 1937 the entertainer Bing Crosby started the popular Crosby Clambake, an annual event that brought musicians, actors, celebrities, and professional golfers together for a friendly competition around a sport they all loved. Today, adidas and Malbon Golf are introducing a special capsule of product – The Crosby Collection – inspired by those early Clambakes and that camaraderie, spirit and fashion from an era that set the stage for what the golf landscape looks like today.

Taking design cues from the fashion that adorned the early days of Bing’s notorious Clambakes, adidas and Malbon Golf put together a range of product for men and women with modern takes on the silhouettes that defined an era. For men, this includes button-down polos, pleated trousers and shorts, crewnecks, a lightweight sport coat and an iconic cardigan inspired by one of the posters from one of the early Clambakes. For women, the capsule includes a color-blocked dress with an argyle print, polos with slightly longer and wider sleeves to go with a boxier cut, and a form-fitting culotte pant.

In addition to the key pieces in the collection, adidas and Malbon will include a checkered anorak, a T-shirt in two colorways featuring the iconic clam decanters that were gifted to all amateur participants in Bing’s Clambakes, and a 5-panel hat. adidas will also include two limited-edition footwear offerings as part of the collection with a specially designed Stan Smith Golf model as well as the new MC87 that mixes performance with style.

A new research project links some of Denmark's leading researchers in PFAS remediation with artificial intelligence. The goal is to develop and optimise a new form of wastewater and drinking water treatment technology using artificial intelligence for zero-pollution goals.

In a new research and development project, researchers from Aarhus University aim to develop a new technology that can collect and break down perpetual chemicals (PFAS) in one step in a purification process that can be connected directly to drinking water wells and treatment plants.

The project has received funding from the Villum Foundation of DKK 3 million, and it will combine newly developed treatment technology from some of Denmark's leading PFAS remediation researchers with artificial intelligence that can ensure optimal remediation.

"In the project, we will design, construct and test a new, automated degradation technology for continuous PFAS degradation. We’re also going to set up an open database to identify significant and limiting factors for degradation reactions with PFAS molecules in the reactor," says Associate Professor Xuping Zhang from the Department of Mechanical and Production Engineering at Aarhus University, who is co-heading the project in collaboration with Associate Professor Zongsu Wei from the Department of Biological and Chemical Engineering.

Ever since the 1940s, PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances) have been used in a myriad of products, ranging from raincoats and building materials to furniture, fire extinguishers, solar panels, saucepans, packaging and paints.

However, PFAS have proven to have a number of harmful effects on humans and the environment, and unfortunately the substances are very difficult to break down in nature. As a result, the substances continuously accumulate in humans, animals, and elsewhere in nature.

In Denmark, PFAS have been found in drinking water wells, in surface foam on the sea, in the soil at sites for fire-fighting drills, and in many places elsewhere, for example in organic eggs. It is not possible to remove PFAS from everything, but work is underway to remove PFAS from the groundwater in drinking water wells that have been contaminated with the substances.

Currently, the most common method to filter drinking water for PFAS is via an active carbon filter, an ion-exchange filter, or by using a specially designed membrane. All of these possibilities filter PFAS from the water, but they do not destroy the PFAS. The filters are therefore all temporary, as they have to be sent for incineration to destroy the accumulated PFAS, or they end in landfills.

The project is called 'Machine Learning to Enhance PFAS Degradation in Flow Reactor', and it aims to design and develop an optimal and permanent solution for drinking water wells and treatment plants in Denmark that constantly captures and breaks down PFAS, while also monitoring itself.

"We need to be creative and think outside the box. I see many advantages in linking artificial intelligence with several different water treatment technologies, but integrating intelligence-based optimisation is no easy task. It requires strong synergy between machine learning and chemical engineering, but the perspectives are huge," says Associate Professor Zongsu Wei from the Department of Biological and Chemical Engineering at Aarhus University.

SHIMA SEIKI ITALIA S.p.A., Italian subsidiary of leading Japanese computerized knitting solutions provider SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD., will exhibit at the 94th edition of the Pitti Immagine Filati exhibition in Florence, Italy (24th-26th January 2024). It will exhibit as part of the CustomEasy section, which involves the concept of Fashion at Work and explores customization in the presence of textile machinery and design software, represented in part by SHIMA SEIKI's lineup of WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machines and APEXFiz® design software.

The new SWG-XR® flagship machine features 4 needle beds for all-needle knitting of high quality WHOLEGARMENT® products using the company's original SlideNeedle™, in addition to a re-designed sinker system and a compact, light-weight carriage featuring 4 systems as well as auto yarn carriers. All contribute to increased productivity of more than 25% over the previous MACH2®XS machine, as well as increased product range using a wider variety of yarn for supporting knits for all seasons, and higher quality for knitting beautiful fabrics and silhouettes; even items that were impossible to knit with the MACH2® series, including punch-lace patterns, variable stitch knitting and intarsia knitting. Setting new standards for the next generation of waste-free, sustainable WHOLEGARMENT® knitting, SWG-XR® at Pitti Filati will be shown in 15L and 18L as well as a prototype machine in 22L.

APEXFiz® subscription-based design software supports the creative side of fashion from planning and design to colorway evaluation, realistic fabric simulation and 3D virtual sampling. Virtual samples are a digitized version of sample making that are accurate enough to be used effectively as prototypes. By replacing physical samples, virtual samples reduce time, cost and material that otherwise go to waste.

The product planning capability of APEXFiz® is enhanced by several web services featured as part of the SHIMA SEIKI Online Services (SHIMA online) web platform. These include SHIMA Datamall™ digital content web service that allows users to search, browse and purchase a variety of useful data for streamlining the planning and production of fashion items, as well as the recently renewed yarnbank® digital yarn sourcing web service that offers digitized yarn data by yarn companies from around the world for download and use in virtual sampling. SHIMANAVI® e-learning system is also part of the online platform.

From Resource-efficient and Recycled Fibres for Textiles and Building Panels to Geotextiles for Glacier Protection: Six award nominees present innovative and sustainable solutions for various industries in the cellulose fibre value chain. The full economic potential of the cellulose fibre industry will be introduced to a wide audience that will vote for the winners in Cologne (Germany), and online.

Again nova-Institute grants the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year” award in the context of the “Cellulose Fibres Conference”, that will take place in Cologne on 13 and 14 March 2024. In advance, the conferences advisory board nominated six remarkable products, including cellulose fibres from textile waste and straw, a novel technology for dying cellulose-based textiles and a construction panel as well as geotextiles. The innovations will be presented by the companies on the first day of the event. All conference participants can vote for one of the six nominees and the top three winners will be honoured with the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year” award. The Innovation award is sponsored by GIG Karasek (AT).

In addition, the ever-growing sectors of cellulose-based nonwovens, packaging and hygiene products offer conference participants insights beyond the horizon of traditional textile applications. Sustainability and other topics such as fibre-to-fibre recycling and alternative fibre sources are the key topics of the Cellulose Fibres Conference, held in Cologne, Germany, on 13 and 14 March 2024 and online. The conference will showcase the most successful cellulose-based solutions currently on the market or those planned for the near future.

The nominees:

The Straw Flexi-Dress: Design Meets Sustainability – DITF & VRETENA (DE)
The Flexi-Dress design was inspired by the natural golden colour and silky touch of HighPerCell® (HPC) filaments based on unbleached straw pulp. These cellulose filaments are produced using environmentally friendly spinning technology in a closed-loop production process. The design decisions focused on the emotional connection and attachment to the HPC material to create a local and circular fashion product. The Flexi-Dress is designed as a versatile knitted garment – from work to street – that can be worn as a dress, but can also be split into two pieces – used separately as a top and a straight skirt. The top can also be worn with the V-neck front or back. The HPC textile knit structure was considered important for comfort and emotional properties.

HONEXT® Board FR-B (B-s1, d0) – Flame-retardant Board made From Upcycled Fibre Waste From the Paper Industry – Honext Material (ES)
HONEXT® FR-B board (B-s1, d0) is a flame-retardant board made from 100 % upcycled industrial waste fibres from the paper industry. Thanks to innovations in biotechnology, paper sludge is upcycled – the previously “worthless” residue from paper making – to create a fully recyclable material, all without the use of resins. This lightweight and easy-to-handle board boasts high mechanical performance and stability, along with low thermal conductivity, making it perfect for various applications in all interior environments where fire safety is a priority. The material is non-toxic, with no added VOCs, ensuring safety for both people and the planet. A sustainable and healthy material for the built environment, it achieves Cradle-to-Cradle Certified GOLD, and Material Health CertificateTM Gold Level version 4.0 with a carbon-negative footprint. Additionally, it is verified in the Product Environmental Footprint.

LENZING™ Cellulosic Fibres for Glacier Protection – Lenzing (AT)
Glaciers are now facing an unprecedented threat from global warming. Synthetic fibre-based geotextiles, while effective in slowing down glacier melt, create a new environmental challenge: microplastics contaminating glacial environments. The use of such materials contradicts the very purpose of glacier protection, as it exacerbates an already critical environmental problem. Recognizing this problem, the innovative use of cellulosic LENZING™ fibres presents a pioneering solution. The Institute of Ecology, at the University of Innsbruck, together with Lenzing and other partners made first trials in 2022 by covering small test fields with LENZING™ fibre-based geotextiles. The results were promising, confirming the effectiveness of this approach in slowing glacier melt without leaving behind microplastic.

The RENU Jacket – Advanced Recycling for Cellulosic Textiles – Pangaia (UK) & Evrnu (US)
PANGAIA LAB was born out of a dream to reduce barriers between people and the breakthrough innovations in material science. In 2023, PANGAIA LAB launched the RENU Jacket, a limited edition product made from 100% Nucycl® – a technology that recycles cellulosic textiles by breaking them down to their molecular building blocks, and reforming them into new fibres. This process produces a result that is 100% recycled and 100% recyclable when returned to the correct waste stream – maintaining the strength of the fibre so it doesn’t need to be blended with virgin material.
Through collaboration with Evrnu, the PANGAIA team created the world’s first 100% chemically recycled denim jacket, replacing a material traditionally made from 100% virgin cotton. By incorporating Nucycl® into this iconic fabric construction, dyed with natural indigo, the teams have demonstrated that it’s possible to replace ubiquitous materials with this innovation.

Textiles Made from Easy-to-dye Biocelsol – VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland (FI)
One third of the textile industry’s wastewater is generated in dyeing and one fifth in finishing. But the use of chemically modified Biocelsol fibres reduces waste water. The knitted fabric is made from viscose and Biocelsol fibres and is only dyed after knitting. This gives the Biocelsol fibres a darker shade, using the same amount of dye and no salt in dyeing process. In addition, an interesting visual effect can be achieved. Moreover, less dye is needed for the darker colour tone in the finished textile and the possibility to use the salt-free dyeing is more environmentally friendly.
These special properties of man-made cellulosic fibres will reassert the fibres as a replacement for the existing fossil-based fibres, thus filling the demand for more environmentally friendly dyeing-solutions in the textile industry. The functionalised Biocelsol fibres were made in Finnish Academy FinnCERES project and are produced by wet spinning technique from the cellulose dope containing low amounts of 3-allyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl substituents. The functionality formed is permanent and has been shown to significantly improve the dyeability of the fibres. In addition, the functionalisation of Biocelsol fibres reduces the cost of textile finishing and dyeing as well as the effluent load.

A New Generation of Bio-based and Resource-efficient Fibre – TreeToTextile (SE)
TreeToTextile has developed a unique, sustainable and resource efficient fibre that doesn't exist on the market today. It has a natural dry feel similar to cotton and a semi-dull sheen and high drape like viscose. It is based on cellulose and has the potential to complement or replace cotton, viscose and polyester as a single fibre or in blends, depending on the application.
TreeToTextile Technology™ has a low demand for chemicals, energy and water. According to a third party verified LCA, the TreeToTextile fibre has a climate impact of 0.6 kg CO2 eq/kilo fibre. The fibre is made from bio-based and traceable resources and is biodegradable.

The GoodTextiles Foundation has implemented a school library in the local primary school in Tamil Nadu, India. As a result, the children now have unrestricted access to additional literature.

At the PUPS Naranikuppam primary school in Tamil Nadu, the GoodTextiles Foundation has already provided access to separate sanitary facilities and clean drinking water. Now, with the help of the foundation, a school library has also been set up. The GoodTextiles Foundation is supporting the project with a total of €3,900.00, of which €1,425.00 comes from a donation from Dibella, which was realised with the greenhouse gas premium. The remainder was financed with donations already received.

A large selection of books tailored to the age and interests of the pupils was purchased for the library, as well as a shelf and a seating area. With a new Smart TV, the children can now also be introduced to digital media and how to use it. An air conditioning system provides pleasant temperatures to improve learning conditions. The newly tiled floor, new glass windows and a new glass door also improve the building-specific conditions.

The school is located directly next to a sewing company where the single mothers of the pupils work.

In 2016, the textile company Dibella established the GoodTextiles Foundation with the aim of making textile value chains more sustainable. It raises donations and implements its own funding projects to benefit people at all stages of the textile industry.

ALLIED Feather + Down, global leaders in high performance, ethically sourced down, and MN Inter-Fashion, manufacturers of high performance luxury outerwear, announced that the ALLIED Feather + Down outerwear collection will be available to the European market.  

Originally released only in Japan, the exclusive collection will be available to select European boutique retailers for the fall 2024 season. Limited to a few hundred pieces, this line will showcase the breadth of ALLIED’s down offering, from their industry-leading ExpeDRY down insulation to their exceedingly high performance 1000 fill power down. It will also include MN Inter-Fashion’s experience delivering quality design and craftsmanship to some of the best known fashion houses in the world.

Designed, cut, and sewn by MN Inter-Fashion in Japan using materials from ALLIED and Pertex, the jackets shall represent a collision between cutting edge fashion aesthetics and materials normally reserved for highly technical outerwear. The result is a unique garment with a sophisticated urban look blended with performance that rivals the most technical outdoor apparel available. 

Eastman Naia™ Renew cellulosic fiber received Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certification on December 13. This certifies Naia™ Renew recycled content, chain of custody, social and environmental practices, and chemical restrictions.

Textile Exchange, a global non-profit for sustainable change in the fashion and textile industry, manages the GRS certification process. Certification is achieved through an audit from independent third-party certifying body SCS Global Services and applies to the full supply chain and addresses traceability, environmental principles, social requirements, chemical content and labeling.

"We’re honored to add GRS certification to our list of Naia™ certifications that support our sustainability goals,” said Claudia de Witte, sustainability leader for Eastman textiles. “Third-party certifications help us build our brand trustworthiness. It’s our goal to make sustainable textiles available to all, and we do that by building trust with our customers and collaborators. This certification adds even more credibility to our fibers and our sustainability story, which we’re proud to share.”

In June 2023, Textile Exchange made an important announcement regarding its Alternative Volume Reconciliation (VR2) policy, which broadened the range of chemical recycling technologies eligible for mass balance. Notably, this expansion now encompasses gasification, the technical description of Eastman’s molecular recycling technology known as carbon renewal technology. Eastman collaborated with Textile Exchange and other stakeholders to educate the industry about the value and contribution of its molecular recycling technology. This policy update is critical for Eastman because it allows the company’s innovative material-to-material recycling technology to be audited for GRS certification.

Molecular recycling technologies at Eastman break waste down into its molecular building blocks allowing the materials to be used in new materials that are indistinguishable from non-recycled materials. By expanding the GRS to include gasification, the global standard now allows for a broader approach to making sustainable textiles accessible to everyone.

In recent years, the textiles industry has shifted toward circular materials to help tackle one of the largest challenges facing the planet: waste pollution, especially textile waste. Eastman molecular recycling is complementary to mechanical recycling and is a solution for hard-to-recycle waste material, including textiles, which are impacted by factors like fiber blends, chemicals and additives.

Naia™ Renew is produced from 60% sustainably sourced wood pulp and 40% GRS-certified* waste materials that would otherwise be destined for landfills through Eastman's patented molecular recycling technology. The certification verifies the processes of chemical recycling, concentrating, extrusion, and spinning of the undyed yarns and fibers.

As part of the Aachen-Dresden-Denkendorf International Textile Conference in Dresden, the Chairman of the Walter Reiners Foundation of the VDMA, Peter D. Dornier, presented awards to four successful young engineers. Two promotion prizes and two sustainability prizes were awarded in the Bachelor and Diploma/Master categories. Academic works in which solutions for resource-saving products and technologies are developed are eligible for the sustainability prizes.

A sustainability prize worth 3,000 euros in the Bachelor's category was awarded to Franziska Jauch, Niederrhein University of Applied Sciences, for her Bachelor's thesis on pigment digital printing in denim production.

The promotion prize in the Bachelor's category, also worth 3,000 euros, went to Annika Datko, RWTH Aachen, for her work on determining the polyester content in used textiles.

Dave Kersevan, TU Dresden, was honoured with a sustainability prize in the Diploma/Master's category, endowed with 3,500 euros. The subject of his thesis was the development of a laboratory system for the production of needled carbon preforms.

This year's promotion award in the Diploma/Master's category, endowed with prize money of 3,500 euros, went to Flávio Diniz from RWTH Aachen. The subject of his Master's thesis was the feasibility of manufacturing ultra-thin carbon fibres.

The award ceremony 2024 will take place in April at the VDMA stand at the Techtextil fair in Frankfurt.

In cooperation with the Swiss company Haelixa, Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Solutions will, in future, be able to make the entire value chain of a textile end product transparent and hence sustainable. The two development partners are offering a solution for the comprehensive traceability of products, as required by the European Green Deal.

An essential part of the solution is the DNA marker technology developed by Haelixa that enables complete traceability of materials. These markers survive all production process steps, validating that the end product is identifiable. "This innovative technology employs distinct DNA tailored for each project, establishing a unique identity for the material," explains Holly Berger, Marketing Director at Haelixa. "Once the DNA is integrated into the material, it becomes irremovable, impervious to falsification or alteration." Handling is straightforward: the DNA marker is fed into the spinning process with the preparation oil, for example. The preparation system is modified accordingly. Further feeding options are currently being developed.

Smart factory: total transparency with atmos.io
The concept is complemented by atmos.io, Oerlikon's digital platform, which records and evaluates extensive production and process data during the yarn manufacturing process. Atmos.io gives the yarn its digital identity during its time on Oerlikon systems, from the melt to the packaged package. This technology has been used successfully for some time to monitor the production process. With atmos.io, deviations in process parameters and yarn data can be identified and rectified within a very short time, which in turn keeps the yarn quality stable and reduces waste rates.

Combining both technologies enables clear traceability of the yarn produced, even in the downstream process steps. Hence, the yarn's components, qualities, manufacturing conditions, and origin are traced beyond doubt in the finished garment. "The unique DNA carries the 'roots' of the yarn digitally recorded in atmos.io into the everyday life of the end consumer," says Jochen Adler, CTO at Oerlikon Manmade Fibers. The textile end products meet the requirements of the digital product passport required by the EU, which contains the information needed to assess their life cycle assessment and circularity. Initial long-term tests have shown 100% traceability of the yarns in the POY and FDY spinning process. If the yarn manufacturer relies on the atmos.io platform, production systems can be adapted relatively easily to use the DNA markers.