From the Sector

Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) presented a new online film series: Fashion Redressed. Produced by BBC StoryWorks Commercial Productions, the captivating series intends to inspire the industry to take action to transform the way we produce and consume fashion.

Every day we express ourselves through our clothes. Encompassing cultures, personalities, traditions and beliefs, fashion is core to how we present ourselves to the outside world. But our consumption of fashion and clothing is pushing our planet and societies to its limits. Fashion trendsetters and pioneers are working to meet this challenge head-on with game-changing ideas. At the heart of this is the question: how can we keep expressing all we do through fashion, but without hurting the planet?
 
Focused on finding the answers, Fashion Redressed, comprises multiple films that showcase organisations from across the fashion and textile industries. Launched on a BBC.com microsite, the series spotlights the innovations across the world that are influencing the new seasons of fashion, featuring a collection of stories that depict tailor-made solutions to fit us and our planet.
 
The 11 self-contained branded films showcase a range of participants including: eBay, Elk, The Ellen MacArthur Foundation, Vestiaire Collective, Spinnova, Lenzing, Faherty, FarFetch, Waste2Wear, Colorifix and Forest Stewardship Council. Each film focuses on a bespoke solution that can benefit us and the planet. From the scientist taking inspiration from silk-spinning spiders in Helsinki and the duo taking a deep dive into the genetic makeup of colour in Cambridge, to the pre-loved clothes being brought to life on a global platform from Paris and the importance of cultural appreciation in Arizona, fashion gathers the most creative and innovative minds. This series expresses the dynamism and creativity of the fashion world, spotlighting the people weaving change into the fibres of fashion and those who are working to find the stylish side of a more sustainable sector.
 
The series was unveiled ahead of GFA’s landmark event – Global Fashion Summit: Boston Edition – on 27 September. The forum will bring together fashion stakeholders for agenda-setting discussions and productive meetings on critical environmental and social issues.

The Sustainability Report 2022, which is now digitally available summarizes key ecological, economic, and social developments.
The report shows that the CHT Group has defined and anchored sustainability as an integral part of its corporate strategy.
 

• The group of companies is pursuing the goal of becoming climate-neutral by 2045
• At the end of 2021, the CHT Group subscribed to the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi) to meet the targets of the Paris Climate Agreement and committed to the 1.5 °C target
• 77 % of sales were achieved with sustainably classified products

The issue of sustainability has been anchored in the DNA of the internationally active foundation-owned group of companies for 70 years. No less an aspiration is derived from this than to support all customers with the most innovative, most sustainable products and solutions and thus to become the leading supplier of sustainable chemical products and solutions in all target markets.

"Climate neutrality" and comprehensive social responsibility  
In the implementation of the sustainability strategy of the CHT Group, the field of action "climate neutrality" takes a central role. The CHT Group has set itself the goal of being climate neutral both in its own production and in the supply chain from the year 2045. The path to climate neutrality by 2045 is illustrated in the report as part of the strategic goal.

In addition to climate protection, social responsibility is also a top priority for the CHT Group. The continuous improvement of health protection and occupational safety is a top priority for the company.

From CHT's point of view, qualified and committed employees make a significant contribution to the company's future success. For this reason, the CHT Group promotes the professional and personal development of its workforce to a high degree and invests in future-oriented and targeted training and further education of its workforce.

For the CHT Group, the respect for human rights is an indispensable pillar of the corporate culture and an essential part of the group-wide Code of Conduct. In 2022, the Human Rights Compliance Policy Statement was developed, and compliance processes and measures were put in place to prevent any violations and identify and mitigate human rights related risks.

• Revenues: 239.6 million euros (-4%)*
• EBITDA before non-recurring items: 35.3 million euros (-21%)*
• Net income: 13.9 million euros (-31%)
• Free cash flow before non-recurring items: 16.6 million euros (+13%)

Lectra’s Board of Directors, chaired by Daniel Harari, reviewed the consolidated financial statements for the first half of 2023, which have been subject to a limited review by the Statutory Auditors.

Comparisons between 2023 and 2022 are based on 2022 exchange rates unless otherwise stated (“like-for-like”). As the impact of the acquisition of TextileGenesis (see press release dated December 8, 2022) on the financial statements for 2023 is not material, like-for-like changes exclude only the variations in exchange rates.

Business Trends and Outlook
In its 2022 Annual Financial Report, published February 8, 2023, Lectra presented its new roadmap for 2023-2025. The Group also specified that 2023 remained unpredictable given the degraded macroeconomic and geopolitical environment, which lead to numerous uncertainties that could continue to weigh upon the investment decisions of its customers.

At the beginning of the year, the Group had set itself objectives of achieving, in 2023, revenues in the range of 522 to 576 million euros and EBITDA before non-recurring items in the range of 90 to 113 million euros.

Given the delay in orders for new systems in the first quarter, and poor visibility on new systems orders for subsequent quarters, the Group reported on April 27 that it now anticipated revenues in the range of 485 to 525 million euros (-5% to +3% at constant exchange rates relative to 2022) and EBITDA before non-recurring items in the range of 78 to 95 million euros (-15% to +3% at constant exchange rates relative to 2022). The Group also noted that despite limited visibility regarding new systems orders over the next few quarters, there is strong visibility regarding recurring revenues, which should enjoy substantial growth and account for 65% of total revenues in 2023. These revised scenarios had been prepared on the basis of the closing exchange rates on April 27, 2023, for the remaining nine months of the year, and particularly $1.10/€1.

The results of the second quarter support these revised objectives.

A 1-cent appreciation of the euro against the U.S. dollar in the second half of the year (at an exchange rate of $1.10/€1) would mechanically decrease revenues by approximately 1.0 million euros and EBITDA before non-recurring items by 0.45 million euros. On the contrary, a 1-cent fall in the euro against the dollar would mechanically raise revenues and EBITDA before non-recurring items by the same amounts.

Because the Group's customers operate in a highly competitive environment that demands they continue to improve performance, their investments will pick up as soon as the macroeconomic situation improves. Lectra's roadmap for 2023-2025, which was launched on January 1, 2023, will enable the Group to take full advantage of the upturn and accelerate its growth.

The EPTA – European Pultrusion Technology Association organizes in cooperation with the ACMA – American Composites Manufacturers Association - the 17th World Pultrusion Conference on 29th February – 1st March 2024 in Hamburg, Germany. The conference is one of the leading pultrusion events in the world. The event takes place just before the JEC World 2024 in Paris (5th – 7th March 2024).

The presentations are to document innovations in the following subject areas of
pultruded reinforced plastics:

• Market development in Europe, USA, Asia
• Innovative applications
• New Markets: Ideas for potential new applications with pultruded shapes or
• systems
• Sustainability: Technical possibilities, recycling, etc.
• Raw materials
  ○ Development of fibres
  ○ Development of resins
• Construction / Testing / Calculation
• Processes

The presentation language will be English. Deadline for paper submission (title, short abstract, speaker name and address) until 15th September 2023 to info@pultruders.com.

The Sorting for Circularity USA consortium project welcomes new partners and expands its North American geographical scope. Fashion for Good is pleased to announce the addition of lululemon as an external brand partner, joining the existing seven brand partners. They also welcome their new implementation partners Helpsy, United Southern Waste Material, Goodwill Industries International Inc., and its members Goodwill of Colorado, Goodwill Industries-Suncoast, Inc., Goodwill of the Finger Lakes, and Goodwill of San Francisco Bay. Additionally, Fashion for Good is pleased to recognise adidas as the project's lead sponsor, facilitating the complete realisation of the project scope.

Fashion for Good, together with Resource Recycling Systems, launched the Sorting for Circularity USA consortium project in January 2023. The project will conduct an extensive consumer survey to map the journey of a garment from closet to end of use, and present a comprehensive snapshot of textile waste composition generated in the United States. The insights gained from this 18-month project will help to scale collection, sorting, and recycling innovations and inform decisions on necessary investments and actions.

Within the first 6 months, the project has expanded to cover 6 key states: California, Texas, Florida, New York, New Jersey and Colorado. Additional implementation partners have also signed on to support the fibre composition data analysis: Secondary Materials and Recycled Textiles (SMART) Association, Helpsy, United Southern Waste Material, and Goodwill Industries International Inc., with its members Goodwill of Colorado, Goodwill Industries-Suncoast, Inc., Goodwill of the Finger Lakes, and Goodwill of San Francisco Bay. Resource Recycling Systems will drive the dissemination and analysis of the consumer survey together with New York State Center for Sustainable Materials Management and Syracuse University Center for Sustainable Community Solutions, and execute the textile composition analysis using Matoha’s near infrared devices with advisory support from Circle Economy.

Demonstrating the importance of pre-competitive collaboration in tackling the industry’s biggest challenges, lululemon joins Eastman, H&M and Nordstrom as key project partners, together with Fashion for Good corporate partners adidas, Inditex, Levi Strauss & Co., and Target. Adidas' lead sponsorship ensures a deeper analysis of USA textile waste infrastructure and the identification of valuable opportunities for advancement.

In the USA, textile waste is the fastest-growing segment of the country's waste stream, with 85% of discarded textiles ending up in landfills*. Understanding the composition of material, volume and location of used textiles is crucial for capturing them and sorting them for the best and highest quality end use. Moreover, the range of national and regional geographies within the Sorting for Circularity project series enables for nuanced cross-country comparisons - revealing differences in the textile waste generated and infrastructure required.

Sorting for Circularity, a framework co-developed by Fashion for Good and Circle Economy, aims to (re)capture textile waste by unlocking the feedstock potential for recycling, expedite the implementation of game changing automated sorting technologies such as near-infrared spectroscopy and advanced textile-to-textile recycling, and drive circularity within the fashion value chain. The project builds on the success of Sorting for Circularity Europe and India, which revealed insights on material composition, volume, and location of used textiles and provided a solid foundation to accelerate textile recycling in those respective geographical locations.

*United States Environmental Protection Agency (2019). National Overview: Facts and Figures on Materials, Wastes and Recycling.

The textile machinery orders index for the first quarter of 2023, as processed by the Economics Office of ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, declined markedly compared to January-March 2022 (-35%). In absolute terms, the index stood at 84.8 points (basis: 2015=100).

This result is mainly due to a reduction in the orders intake recorded by manufacturers on foreign markets. Indeed, foreign orders dropped by 40%, whereas the domestic market showed a 14% increase. The absolute value of the index settled at 78.3 points abroad, while it measured in at 148.1 points in Italy. During this year’s first quarter, booked orders stood at 4.2 months of guaranteed production.

ACIMIT president Alessandro Zucchi stated that, “The order index for the first quarter confirm a trend of the past few quarters, where uncertainty still predominates in global markets, both in terms of a macroeconomic framework that is characterized by a penalizing inflationary trend and ongoing geopolitical tensions. This is a scenario that this does not facilitate investment plans for businesses.”

However, this uncertainty does not appear to affect the sector’s operators, who are nonetheless permeated by a sense of optimism, as is also testified by the positive data drawn from a comparison with orders from the previous quarter (October-December 2022), for which total orders had been slightly on the rise at +3%. Indeed, the president of ACIMIT confirms that, “Manufacturers in our sector don’t lack for work, having filled up on orders last year and are now busy fulfilling them. The forecasts for 2023 remain positive”. Zucchi concluded, “I expect this confirmation of a healthy manufacturing sector to come from ITMA Milan, the world’s premier trade show dedicated to textile and clothing technologies, slated to open on June 8th at the Rho Fiera exhibition spaces. The exhibit will feature over 400 Italian manufacturers, taking up approximately 30% of the entire exhibition space. This figure is in itself a result that confirms the leadership role of Italy’s textile machinery manufacturers”.

Stahl announces that its near-term greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions reduction targets have been validated by the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi). Stahl is one of the few coatings companies to receive this validation. To date, 145 companies in the chemicals sector have submitted an emissions reduction target to the SBTi, of which 61 have had their targets validated.

Stahl’s science-based targets, which reflect the company’s commitment to the 2015 Paris Agreement goals, are:  

• Stahl Holdings B.V. commits to reduce absolute scope 1 & 2 GHG emissions 42.0% by CY2030 from a CY2021 base year.*
• Stahl Holdings B.V. commits to reduce absolute scope 3 GHG emissions 25.0% by CY2030 from a CY2021 base year.

The SBTi classifies emissions reduction targets according to two potential temperature pathways: 1) limiting global temperature rises to 1.5°C above pre-industrial levels, and 2) limiting temperature rises to well below 2°C. The SBTi has determined that Stahl’s Scope 1 and 2 target is in line with a 1.5°C trajectory, while Stahl’s Scope 3 target has been validated in line with the well-below 2°C pathway.

Maarten Heijbroek, CEO of Stahl: “The validation of our Scope 1, 2, and 3 emissions reduction targets by the SBTi is an important milestone on our ESG journey as we strive to limit our contribution to global warming, in line with the Paris Agreement. Our targets are ambitious, and rightly so. Realizing our goal to help create a more responsible coatings value chain starts with being accountable for our own environmental impact, and taking concrete steps to reduce our emissions wherever possible.”

A clear strategy to reduce GHG emissions
Stahl’s approach to realizing its near-term emissions reduction targets is outlined in the company’s Environmental, Social, and Governance (ESG) Roadmap to 2030. This strategy defines the specific metrics against which progress on the company’s ESG commitments will be measured.

Stahl’s Scope 1 and 2 GHG emissions reduction targets, as submitted to the SBTi, cover emissions from all manufacturing sites where Stahl products are produced, as well as the company’s largest non-manufacturing locations. Stahl aims to lower these emissions by reducing its overall energy consumption and increasing the use of renewable energy at its sites. To achieve this, the company plans to increase its self-generated electricity capacity (using solar power, for example) and continue investing in more energy-efficient equipment.

Stahl plans to reduce its Scope 3 upstream emissions primarily by replacing fossil-based raw materials in its products with renewable alternatives, such as bio-based and recycled-based feedstocks. In addition, the company plans to introduce more low-impact raw materials into its product design.

* The target boundary includes biogenic land-related emissions and removals from bioenergy feedstocks.

Freudenberg Performance Materials (Freudenberg) will present surfacing veils and core materials for lightweight fiber reinforced plastic (FRP) parts at JEC in Paris, France. Freudenberg will also be showcasing Enka® Solutions flow media and spacers for efficient vacuum infusion, resin transfer and foam injection molding processes for applications in the composites industry, etc. at the international composites show.
 
Freudenberg’s solutions for the FRP industry include a variety of glass, PAN and PET nonwovens, as well as core materials for the production of lightweight fiber reinforced plastic parts. These products are designed for anti-corrosion coatings in piping and tank construction, smooth UV resistant surfaces for facade panels, and other applications for a diverse range of end products. Products made from fiber reinforced plastics must be equipped with surfacing veils to provide abrasion resistance, corrosion resistance, smooth surfaces and mechanical strength. Freudenberg offers high-tech nonwovens that can meet these challenges.
 
Enka® Solutions products are characterized by their typical 3D entangled polymeric filament structures. Thanks to this structure, they are exceptionally suitable as flow media and spacers when producing composite materials.

The Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions GmbH announces the programme for the upcoming editions of MUNICH FABRIC START (24 to 26 January 2023) and BLUEZONE & KEYHOUSE (24 and 25 January 2023).
From 24 to 26 January 2023, visitors can expect a range of the latest trends, fabric, accessories and denim highlights from around 900 international exhibitors, an event programme with expert panels, keynotes and trend lectures, as well as numerous networking opportunities.

Economic Environment
Conflicts, inflation, recession, energy crisis, massive inequality, climate change - how companies can position themselves securely in a volatile market environment - this is deciphered by trend analyst David Shah in his key note "Self-Empowerment" and numerous industry experts, futurologists and leading fashion editors in the lecture series "The Status Quo of Fashion" by strategy and communication consultants Alex Vogt and Jana Kern.

Next to David Shah (View-Publications), the panel will include Siems Luckwaldt (CAPITAL and BUSINESS PUNK, RTL Germany), Shamin Vogel (WeAr Global Magazine), Ben Hanson (The Interline), Maria Cristina Pavarini (The SPIN OFF) and Carl Tillessen (DMI)

Digital Era
From digital colour apps, digital twins and virtual models to 3D simulation and virtual dressing rooms - the world of digital fashion will not only be discussed in numerous lectures in Munich, but also brought to life in the new Assyst Experience. Whether it's Carola Seybold, Head of Global Key Accounts at Pantone, Jan Hilger from Roland Berger, Arndt Johannes from Verce, Dr. Stefan Hauswiesner, CEO of Reactive Reality or the experts of the panel "Textilfabrik X.0 - New Marketing Buzz Words or One Step Ahead": everyone will be looking at virtual fashion from a different angle and providing insights into the latest state of the art. In her trend presentation "The weird & wonderful world of fashion cores" at BLUEZONE, Angela Velasquez (Rivet) sheds light on how viral TikTok trends are reshaping denim merchandising.

Sustainable Future
Digitisation and sustainability - the third major theme of the event programme - could not be more closely intertwined. Lisa Lang, Director of Policy & EU Affairs Orchestrator of EIT Climate KIC in an interview with Muchaneta ten Napel (Shape Innovate) kicks things off about the importance of a green transformation for the industry. Other topics in focus: Liv Simpliciano from Fashion Revolution gives an overview of where the world's biggest fashion brands and retailers stand in terms of transparency. Tricia Carey from Renewcell, David Shah (View-Publications), Lien van der Schueren and Guy Buyle (CISUTAC & HEREWEAR), Mateusz Wielopolski (Circulix) and Mario Malzacher (Circular.Fashion) critically discuss whether the circular economy is really the solution for everything or just a placebo. Circular ecosystems are also presented by Franziska von Becker from Hachmeister & Partner.

The race of the new sustainable materials of the future will be opened by Kirsi Terho from Infinited Fiber, Kuben Edwards from Onezero8, Marianne Uddman from Trustrace and Simon Angel, Sustainable Innovations Curator of MUNICH FABRIC START in a panel discussion with Muchaneta ten Napel (Shape Innovate). New products for a sustainable future in the denim industry will be discussed at BLUEZONE.
Another highlight: In cooperation with the Transformers Foundation, an expert panel will also be held at BLUEZONE on both days of the trade show.

Trends Spring.Summer 2024
Gerd Müller-Thomkins, Carl Tillessen and Niels Holger Wien from the Deutsches Mode Institut (DMI) see a "vibe shift" - a turning point. They will analyse what this means for fashion in their trend presentation on Wednesday. The Women's Fashion Trends SS 24 with the must haves of the season will be analysed by Karin Schmitz from the Trend Forecast Institute Peclers Paris - from the glamorous appearance in everyday life, to the play with gender identity, to simplicity combined with functionality and mobility.

• Potential loss of competitiveness, caused by the EU’s inaction of the energy crisis, and Chinese and US subsidies to domestic industry

Following yesterday’s European Council summit and its conclusions on the measures to tackle the energy crisis, the European textiles industry is extremely concerned about the fast loss of competitiveness of Europe and demands urgent action to save the industry.

The chain of factors determining this sharp decline in competitiveness is twofold. First, the energy cost in Europe is more than 6 times higher than in the US, China, and neighbouring countries. This factor alone has almost erased the business case for producing in the EU. At present, many textiles and clothing companies are producing at net loss or have shut down production. The industrial conditions have worsened in such a way that there is no business case to invest in Europe or buy products produced or processed in the EU. It is only the sense of responsibility of the entrepreneurs towards the European society that is keeping the plants and production running.

Secondly, while the EU is passive and extremely slow in articulating a credible and effective response to the energy crisis, the main international competitors and trade partners (China, India and the US respectively) have developed comprehensive state-aid frameworks for their domestic industry despite not being affected by this crisis at all. The latest example is the 369-billion-dollar scheme of the Inflation Reduction Act rolled out by the Biden administration.

Recent trade data  already indicate a loss of global competitiveness: imports to the EU have grown tremendously in 2022 (+35% year-to-date). It is also evident that the surge in imports goes in parallel with the surge of natural gas price. It is expected that energy prices will remain high and volatile, opening the door for imports to gain substantial market shares in the EU.

The chart indicates the development of the Title Transfer Facility (TTF) until September 2022 since Eurostat data for Q4 2022 has not been published yet. Euratex is aware that the market situation has eased somewhat since in the past months, but the crisis remains because gas prices are still extremely high in comparison to last year. This suggests that the current loss of competitiveness of the EU manufacturing will not be recovered even with lower energy prices, unless measures are taken to correct the unlevel playing field on which the EU industry has to operate in the international markets. Only with an ambitious and comprehensive relaunch plan at EU level, Europe will be able to restore its credibility as a global manufacturing powerhouse and investments.

If the status quo is maintained, not only the EU will not be able to recover its competitive position on the global business stage, but it will also fail its plans to reach zero-net emissions and achieve circularity. It is evident that these ambitions - that the industry is passionately supporting - need massive capital investments. However, in the current scenario an investments diversion can only be expected to markets where governments are actively supporting those investments and energy costs are much lower – regardless of their fossil- or non-fossil origin.

The European textiles industry – the whole value chain, from fibres, nonwoven, to fabrics, clothing manufacturers - are facing unprecedented pressure deriving from the current geopolitical situation, the new macroeconomic conditions and unfair competition from third states. The situation is going to worsen if no emergency action is taken, especially because a recession is expected in the coming months.

The main structural component of the EU manufacturing are SMEs: these are economic actors that are particularly exposed to the current crisis as they do not have the financial leverage to absorb the impact of energy prices for much longer. Urgent EU action is needed to ensure their survival.

EURATEX calls on the EU political leaders in the Commission, in the European Council and in the national capitals to:

1. Raise the ambition and adopt a comprehensive approach at EU level: energy, state-aid and trade policy must be brought together in a single strategy with concrete emergency solutions and with a clear SME dimension;
    
2. Let all hesitations aside and adopt a meaningful price cap on natural gas wholesales, that should be ideally no higher than 80 euro/MWh. In parallel, it should also be ensured that electricity prices are brought to a sustainable price level;
    
3. Change the European posture on state-aid, even temporarily. An ambitious plan of investments and state-aid in green technologies to support the industrial transition should be rolled out.

Such a plan, however, should not be conceived as a retaliation against our most necessary and like-minded trade partners. Access to finance and markets must be safeguarded for all those actors who are capable and willing to invest in Europe, on the basis of reciprocity. In   these challenging times for geopolitical stability, ensuring strong trade ties with our traditional allies and partners is of utmost importance. The roll-out of an investment and state aid plan should not interfere, but rather support, the dialogue with the US (and other partners) and the deepening of our trade and investment partnership. Such a dialogue should be accelerated in the context of the TTC as well as at WTO level.