From the Sector

• The leading denim ingredient brand joins lablaco’s virtual reality Circular Fashion Summit 2021 as an Innovation Partner

ISKO continues to reaffirm its commitment towards circularity by participating as an Innovation Partner in the Circular Fashion Summit 2021 by lablaco. The summit will bring together leaders of change across design, technology and sustainability to share knowledge and take action towards creating a circular future for fashion. The event will be held in a VR version of the Grand Palais Éphémère in Paris and will take place on 9-12 December.

ISKO’s approach to circularity is built on creating a future where no virgin resources are needed to produce beautiful durable and high performing woven fabrics To achieve this, the leading denim ingredient brand is working to remove its reliance on fossil fuels and virgin materials by employing only renewable energy and by setting the challenging target of using 100% recycled or reused materials.

This impressive goal is possible thanks to the cutting edge technologies ISKO is working with such as a one of a kind process which fully separates and recycles cotton and polyester blends at scale, and collaborative partnerships with MoRe Research that are aimed at discovering new possibilities for cellulose based materials. ISKO’s new generation of R TWO™50+ fabrics are also playing a role in moving towards this goal. E ngineered for nature’ they use a minimum of 50% pre and post consumer recycled blend reducing carbon and water footprints by 45% and 65% respectively, and are all GRS certified ISKO also believes that the transition to a circular economy cannot happen without addressing the impact on biodiversity and our ecology. Tackling the over-sourcing of raw materials is key, as the extraction of new natural resources and the impact on carbon emissions in processing them contributes to more than 90% of biodiversity loss.

Zahlreiche Produkte unserer Industriegesellschaft wie Stahl, Aluminium, Zement oder Kunststoff bestehen aus Kohlenstoff oder benötigen ihn, um hergestellt werden zu können. Zentrale Ansätze, wie der Umgang mit Kohlenstoff neu und nachhaltig gestaltet werden kann, hat das Ministerium für Wirtschaft, Innovation, Digitalisierung und Energie (MWIDE) mit der Carbon Management Strategie NRW vorgelegt. Ziel ist eine klimaneutrale Industrie. Auf einer gemeinsamen Veranstaltung des Thinktanks IN4climate.NRW und des MWIDE hat Wirtschafts- und Energieminister Prof. Andreas Pinkwart mit Expert*innen aus Industrie, Wissenschaft und Zivilgesellschaft die Inhalte diskutiert.

»Für uns ist klar: Kohlenstoff kann Klimaschutz«, so Minister Pinkwart. »Mit unserer Carbon Management Strategie zeigen wir ganz konkret, wie eine klimaneutrale Kohlenstoffwirtschaft in Nordrhein-Westfalen aussehen kann. Wir wollen Kohlenstoff nicht nur reduzieren, sondern auch nachhaltig so oft wie möglich im Kreislauf nutzen und die Gesellschaft transparent einbinden. Wir sind damit das erste Bundesland überhaupt, das sich dem Thema annimmt. So können wir unsere ehrgeizigen Klimaschutzziele erreichen und den Industriestandort von morgen gestalten.«

Eine klimaneutrale Industrie braucht nachhaltige Kohlenstoffquellen
Dr. Iris Rieth, Projektmanagerin für Kohlendioxidwirtschaft und Circular Economy bei IN4climate.NRW: »Eine klimaneutrale Industrie braucht nachhaltige Kohlenstoffquellen. Die Circular Economy und die Nutzung von CO2, dessen Ausstoß nicht vermieden werden kann, müssen wir weiter ausbauen. IN4climate.NRW hat in enger Zusammenarbeit mit Unternehmen und der Wissenschaft wichtige Ansätze erarbeitet, die den unterschiedlichen Industrieprozessen gerecht werden. Die Carbon Management Strategie führt nun die Bausteine der Transformation zusammen und setzt die notwendigen politischen Leitplanken, an denen wir uns in unserer weiteren Arbeit orientieren können.«
Infrastruktur für den Transport von CO2 muss aufgebaut werden

Kohlenstoffdioxid war bislang kein Bestandteil von Infrastrukturplanungen in Deutschland. Dabei wird es auch in Zukunft Prozesse geben, bei denen unvermeidlich CO2 entsteht, wie etwa bei der Herstellung von Zement. Verschiedene Projekte arbeiten bereits daran, CO2 direkt am Ofen abzufangen und anderen Branchen, vor allem der chemischen Industrie, als Rohstoff zur Verfügung zu stellen (engl. Carbon Capture and Utilisation, CCU). Eine Infrastruktur für den Transport muss jedoch erst noch aufgebaut werden.

Konkrete Optionen, wie ein solches Pipeline- und Transportsystem aussehen könnte, hat IN4climate.NRW Mitte Oktober in dem Diskussionspapier »CO2 in einer klimaneutralen Grundstoffindustrie« veröffentlicht. In einem weiteren Diskussionspapier »Circular Economy in der Grundstoffindustrie« hat IN4climate.NRW zudem aktuelle Stoffströme analysiert und Lösungsansätze für eine zukünftige industrielle Circular Economy erarbeitet. Beide Papiere sind maßgeblich in die Carbon Management Strategie des Landes eingeflossen.

An der Paneldiskussion haben neben Wirtschafts- und Energieminister Prof. Andreas Pinkwart teilgenommen:

• Dr. Iris Rieth, Projektmanagerin für Kohlendioxidwirtschaft und Circular Economy bei IN4climate.NRW,
• Prof. Görge Deerberg, stellvertretender Institutsleiter des Fraunhofer UMSICHT,
• Dr. Christoph Sievering, Head of Global Energy and Climate Policy & Site Transformation bei Covestro,
• Arne Grotenrath, Experte für Treibhausgasbilanzierung bei Germanzero sowie
• Michael Theben, Abteilungsleiter Klimaschutz im Ministerium für Wirtschaft, Innovation, Digitalisierung und Energie.

For its FW 22/23 collection, ECOSENSOR™ by Asahi Kasei Advance presents a high-tech fabric collection, which implements a new generation of values, with the aim of keeping nature, body and mind in harmony.

ECOSENSOR™’s new references meet the needs of the contemporary consumer, such as durability, wellbeing and performance. Furthermore, they are made with certified ingredients, through a completely traceable and transparent production process and supply chain. Being capable of combining active climate control, exquisite touch, lightness and comfort with sustainable values, ECOSENSOR™’ stands out as a unique eco-high-tech performance proposition in its market.

The whole collection is focused on advanced technology and environmental responsibility. Thanks to ECOSENSOR™ by Asahi Kasei Advance’s unique value-chain based on recycling technology, most part of its yarns are certified by the renowned GRS (Global Recycled Standard). Even the dyeing and finishing phases - key moments for  performance wear - have been certified by international labels such as bluesign® and OEKO-TEX® Standard 100.

Among the compositions of the fabrics, dominant are the recycled polyamide (58%) and polyester (39%) yarns. The stretch component present in 22 articles of the collection is based on ROICA™ EF by Asahi Kasei - the sustainable recycled stretch yarn made from pre-consumer waste. In addition, 8 fabrics of the FW22/23 collection are made of Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei - the high-tech yarn born from the transformation of cotton linters through a fully circular, transparent and traceable process with an amazing precious hand, optimal moisture management characteristics,  whose end of life guarantees its biodegradability and it also carries GRS certification.

Featuring a total of 36 fabrics, the collection is composed of:

• 7 outerwear fabric
• 22 sportswear fabrics
• 7 innerwear fabrics

Wie kann Design dazu genutzt werden, die großen sozialen und ökologischen Herausforde-rungen unserer Zeit anzugehen? Diese Frage steht im Mittelpunkt des Master Eco-Social Design der Hochschule Luzern. Das neue Studium startet 2022 und wird am 26. November 2021 an den Info-Tagen Design & Kunst vorgestellt.

Als «wicked problem» wird ein Problem bezeichnet, das besonders schwierig zu lösen ist, weil es komplexe, teils widersprüchliche Facetten aufweist. Ein aktuelles Beispiel mit besonders weitreichenden Folgen: Können wir den menschengemachten Klimawandel stoppen, ohne die ökonomische Entwicklung ärmerer Länder zu ersticken? Wie man solche wicked problems mit den Mitteln des Designs angeht, lernen ab Herbst 2022 die Studierenden des neuen Master Eco-Social Design. Der erste Master seiner Art in der Schweiz ist am Departement Design & Kunst der Hochschule Luzern angesiedelt. Es handelt sich um eine Vertiefung des bestehenden Master-Studiengangs Design.

«Wicked problems sind schwierig zu lösen, weil sie tiefgreifende Verhaltensänderung von Einzelnen, Organisationen oder der ganzen Gesellschaft erfordern», sagt Jan-Christoph Zoels, Leiter des neuen Masters. Ökosoziale Designerinnen und Designer setzen bei diesem Verhalten an. Sie entwerfen beispielsweise nachhaltigere Produktionsabläufe in Unternehmen, fördern eine an sozialen und ökologischen Kriterien ausgerichtete Stadtplanung oder unterstützen Outreach-Projekte von NGOs und Stiftungen. Dazu nutzen sie die ganze Bandbreite des Design-Instrumentariums: von Produkten über Visualisierungen bis zur Entwicklung von Services und Prozessen in Betrieben und Verwaltungen.

Von alten Matratzen und fairen Schuhen
Drei Abschlussarbeiten aus dem Master-Studiengang Design veranschaulichen die Vielfalt ökosozialer Designprojekte – Arbeiten dieser Art werden Studierende künftig in der Vertiefung Eco-Social Design realisieren:

• Joel Hügli (Abschluss 2022) arbeitet mit der Firma Roviva an einem Recycling-Konzept für Matratzen, Prototyp inklusive. Hintergrund ist der Umstand, dass in der Schweiz jährlich bis zu einer Million Altmatratzen verbrannt statt wiederverwertet werden.
• Meri Zirkelbachs Abschlussarbeit (2019) bewegt sich an der Schnittstelle zwischen Design und Materialforschung: Sie analysierte im Projekt WhiteWood die Anwendungsmöglichkeiten eines von der ETH Zürich entwickelten ökologischen Werkstoffs auf Holzbasis.
• Catalina Jossen Cardozo (Abschluss 2016) entwickelte die Online-Plattform «By Maria», die kolumbianische Schuhmacherinnen mit Designern und der Kundschaft zusammen-bringt. Das Ziel von By Maria: Schuhe fair vermarkten, ohne Mensch und Umwelt auszubeuten.

Öko-soziale Designerinnen und Designer lösen nicht im Alleingang die Probleme der Welt, wie diese Auswahl zeigt. Vielmehr arbeiten sie mit Expertinnen und Experten aus Forschung, Kultur, öffentlichem Sektor und Industrie zusammen. Dabei steuern sie neue, ungewohnte Perspektiven auf Fragestellungen der ökologischen und sozioökonomischen Nachhaltigkeit bei. Entsprechend richtet sich der neue Master an Personen mit unterschiedlichen beruflichen Hintergründen, wie Leiter Jan-Christoph Zoels ausführt: «Unsere Studierenden können von Haus aus IT-Profis, Sozialarbeiter, Architektinnen oder Mitarbeitende von öffentlichen Verwaltungen sein. Hauptsache, sie haben eine Affinität für Design und suchen gerne über die Disziplingrenzen hinweg nach neuen Lösungsansätzen für die wicked problems unserer Zeit.»

Mehr Informationen zum Studium finden sich auf der Website des Master Eco-Social Design.

C.L.A.S.S. MATERIAL HUB is a careful selection of smart ingredients made by cutting-edge companies and innovators across the globe. The wide range includes transparent and traceable products, which can be natural/organic, up or re-cycled/able, or innovative and always representing a new generation of innovation that is minimizing its impact on people, environment, animals and oceans.

Sensil® BioCare sustainable premium Nylon fiber is enhanced with a technology, that helps lessen the persistence of textile waste in sea water and in landfills. With its embedded technology, if any microfibers of Sensil® BioCare garments are released during washing, they will be broken down at a quicker rate compared to conventional Nylon 6.6 fibers when they end up in the oceans. Tests were conducted in both landfill soil and sea water simulations to understand the potential impact of Sensil® BioCare on both ecosystems. Specifically, initial testing following the ASTM D6691 Standard Test Method For Determining Aerobic Biodegradation Of Plastic Materials In The Marine Environment and the ASTM D5511 Standard Test Method For Determining Anaerobic Biodegradation Of Plastic Materials Under High-Solids Anaerobic-Digestion Conditions indicates that Sensil® BioCare yarns break down more rapidly (with a biodegradation of about 40% in 500 days) than conventional nylon. These promising findings point to reduced waste accumulation in both oceans and landfills.

NILIT, owner of the sustainable brand SENSIL®, has also teamed up with The Ocean Foundation’s Blue Resilience Initiative to reestablish and safeguard essential ocean meadows and other coastal habitats. These marine grasslands, which are being damaged at a rate of two football fields every hour, are vital ecosystems for sequestering CO2 from the atmosphere, thus reducing global warming and ocean acidification. In addition, ocean grasslands sustain sea life, defend coast lines against erosion and storm surge, and support economies around the world.

NILIT’s plant in Israel, who produce Sensil ® Biocare boosts, renowned certifications such as GRS (Global Recycled Standard)*, ISO 9001**, ISO 14001*** and ISO 45001****. Moreover, the company has already announced that all other plants in  the USA, China and Brazil will be ISO 14001 certified within 2021 and ISO 45001 certified within 2025. Worth to mention, 40% of Nilit’s team is made up of women.

Royal Golden Eagle (RGE) has released its 2021 progress report on its commitment to invest USD200 million in next-generation textile fibre innovation and technology over a ten-year period which started in 2019.

The annual report provides an update on the activities undertaken by RGE and its business groups (Sateri, APR, APRIL, Bracell) involved in the fashion value chain to advance its ambition towards closed-loop, circular and climate-positive cellulosic fibre.

In 2021, Sateri achieved full compliance with the emission limits set out in the European Union Best Available Techniques Reference Document (EU-BAT BREF) for all of its five viscose mills in China, two years ahead of schedule. Bracell completed construction of the world’s largest and greenest new generation pulp mill in São Paulo which uses cutting-edge technology for fossil fuel-free generation.

Amid the COVID-19 pandemic continuing to restrict travel and collaboration, RGE persisted in building upon existing partnerships, while entering into new agreements. Sateri strengthened its strategic collaboration with Infinited Fiber Company, participating in the company’s EUR30 million funding round, which attracted new and existing investors such as H&M Group, Adidas, BESTSELLER and Zalando.

New partnerships formed by RGE included a five-year textile recycling research collaboration with Nanyang Technological University Singapore, and a three-year strategic partnership with the Textile and Fashion Federation Singapore which seeks, among others goals, to advance research and innovation in circular economy approaches to fashion waste in Asia.

RGE’s in-house R&D team has made good progress in advancing its textile-to-textile project, focusing on producing quality viscose using recycled cotton textiles as feedstock. To support plans to build a textile recycling facility in Indonesia, and as part of commercial feasibility analysis, studies examining the availability of textile waste and textile recycling landscapes in China, Indonesia, Sri Lanka and Bangladesh were completed.

Sateri remains on track in developing a product with 50 per cent recycled content by 2023, and to reach 100 per cent by 2030. It also aims for 20 per cent of its feedstock to contain alternative or recycled materials by 2025. In this similar vein, APR will source 20 per cent of its feedstock from alternative or recycled materials by 2030.

Gina Tricot releases its first collection that has been produced with We aRe SpinDye. The collection is part of Gina Tricot's innovation program Gina Lab. and consists of a coat, shirt, trousers and two bags colored with We aRe SpinDye's method.

With the collaboration, Gina Tricot continues to focus on sustainability, now with the coloring process at the center. Of all the resources that arise during the entire lifespan of a garment - from the production of raw materials, to recycling, 80% is used during the production phase itself. To maximize the effects of the sustainability changeover, an increased focus is required on the entire production process and in particular on the most resource-intensive of them all: the dyeing.

One of Gina Tricot's focus is to explore new methods and technologies in sustainability, which makes the collaboration with We aRe Spin Dye feel just right for us. Together we get a product with more durable and circular fibers, in addition with a more sustainable textile production with a focus on minimal water use. We are extremely proud of this collaboration. says Emma Garrote, Global Production & Sustainability Manager at Gina Tricot.

Gina Tricot is a shining example of an agile organization with short decision-making processes. They have managed to enthuse both the design and production department. It has been crucial to reach the launch of this collection that takes place today, says Andreas Andrén, CEO of We aRe SpinDye®.

Gina Tricot
Gina Tricot is a Swedish fashion brand that offers fashion to women in over 30 countries. Today, Gina Tricot has over 160 stores around Sweden, Norway, Denmark and Finland, as well as e-commerce throughout Europe. With around 1,900 employees, 98% of these are girls. For Gina Tricot, it is important to build pride from the inside out, we are a company that chooses to invest in and highlight women.

We aRe Spin Dye
The company is a Swedish cleantech company that provides and offers a process and platform for production and quality control that enables players in the fashion and clothing industry to significantly reduce their environmental impact. The company's business concept is to establish a new, sustainable and transparent standard for dyeing synthetic textiles in the fashion and apparel industry in a simple and user-friendly way.

In the Canopy’s 2021 Hot Button Ranking, Kelheim Fibres once again occupies a leading position: With a increase of 2.5 points in the evaluation, the Bavarian viscose speciality fibre manufacturer tied for third place out of around 40 viscose fibre manufacturers worldwide and a dark green/green shirt for the second year running. The Hot Button Report not only stands for responsible raw material sourcing - it is an overall sustainability indicator for viscose fibre producers.

Especially in the areas of transparency and procurement, the NGO Canopy, which is committed to the preservation of ancient and endangered forests, awarded Kelheim Fibres top points: Kelheim Fibres is the only EMAS-certified viscose fibre manufacturer worldwide and publishes all environmentally relevant data publicly.

Kelheim Fibres also gained points in the area of "Next Generation Solutions" - the use of alternative raw materials in fibre production. Together with the Swedish textile recycling company Renewcell, the fibre experts are planning to realise the large-scale production of high-quality viscose fibres from up to 10,000 tonnes of the 100% textile recyclate Circulose® per year.

• ADNOC and Borealis confirm final investment agreement to build Borouge 4 in Ruwais, United Arab Emirates (UAE), which will produce 1.4 million tons of polyethylene per annum
• Expansion project includes construction of a 1.5 million tonnes ethane cracker, two state-of-the-art Borstar® polyethylene plants and a cross-linked polyethylene plant
• Borouge 4 will meet growing customer demand across the Middle East, Africa and Asia with differentiated polyolefin solutions in energy, infrastructure, and advanced packaging
• New facility will benefit from industry-leading technologies to significantly improve energy efficiency and lower emissions, with carbon capture study underway
• Upon expansion, Borouge will be the world's largest single-site polyolefin complex and will supply feedstock to TA'ZIZ Industrial Chemicals Zone Body

ADNOC and Borealis AG signed an USD 6.2 billion investment agreement to build the fourth Borouge facility – Borouge 4 – at the polyolefin manufacturing complex in Ruwais, United Arab Emirates (UAE).

The world-scale expansion confirms both partners’ commitment to the growth of Borouge and to support chemical production, and advanced manufacturing and industry in Ruwais, a key pillar of Abu Dhabi and the UAE’s technology, innovation and industrial development strategy. Borouge produces crucial industrial raw materials, which are exported to customers globally and used by local companies, boosting local industrial supply chains and enhancing In-Country Value.

Borouge 4 will capitalize on the projected growth in customer demand for polyolefins, driven by their use in manufactured products in the Middle East, Africa and Asia. The facility will also enable the next phase of growth at the Ruwais Industrial Complex by supplying feedstock to the TA’ZIZ Industrial Chemicals Zone.

Borouge 4 will have an industry-leading focus on sustainability leveraging the capabilities of both shareholders. The facility will utilize Borealis’ proprietary Borstar technology, to produce a product portfolio focused on durable applications for energy, infrastructure, advanced packaging, and agriculture sectors. This unique technology, in combination with hexene co-monomer, will enable the production of advanced packaging grades with up to 50% recycled polyethylene content.

Subject to an in-depth study, a Carbon Capture unit that would reduce CO2 emissions by 80% could also be operational in time for Borouge 4’s start-up. The facility is also designed to capitalize on ADNOC’s recent initiatives on clean energy, decarbonizing its power supply through access to Abu Dhabi’s clean power sources. These initiatives are aligned with the UAE Net Zero by 2050 Strategic Initiative.

The first Borouge facility, producing 450,000 tons of polyethylene per annum was commissioned in 2001. Borouge 2 and Borouge 3 took capacity to 2 million tons and 4.5 million tons of polyethylene and polypropylene per annum in 2010 and 2014 respectively.  Borouge 4 will boost the company’s annual polyolefin production to 6.4 million tons, making Borouge one of the world’s largest single-site polyolefin facilities.

The new Borouge 4 facility will comprise:

• An ethane cracker, with 1.5 million tons ethylene output per annum, which will be the fourth cracker in Borouge’s integrated petrochemical complex in Ruwais
• Two additional Borstar® polyethylene (PE) plants, each with 700 thousand tons per annum capacity, using state-of-the-art Borealis Borstar third generation (3G) technology
• A cross-linked PE (XLPE) plant of 100 thousand tons per annum capacity.
• A hexene-1 unit, which will produce co-monomers for certain grades of polyethylene.

EREMA is winner at this year´s Plastics Recycling Awards Europe. At the award ceremony as part of the Plastics Recycling Show Europe at 5th November in Amsterdam, EREMA was awarded for its recycling system INTAREMA® TVEplus® RegrindPro® + ReFresher in the category Recycling Machinery Innovation of the Year. Thanks to the combination of its recycling machine with the ReFresher technology that reduces odour downstream of the extrusion process, EREMA has enabled the PCR-HDPE produced with it to be used in proportions of up to 100 percent for the production of packaging for direct contact with food and beverages, as confirmed by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA).

The judges recongised this innovation as a step change in eliminating unwanted odour from waste plastics, allowing recyclate to replace virgin palstics in high end applications. This type of innovation is essential for meeting EU targets for recycled content of food contact plastics.
The market also confirms awarding this technology. By the end of 2021, EREMA customers will produce 450,000 tonnes of high-quality, odor-optimized regranulate per year, with it.