From the Sector

• At Kingpins Show Amsterdam (24-25 October) the new “Committed Accessories” dedicated to denim take centre stage.

For the appointment with the exhibition dedicated to denim Metalbottoni focuses on its new range of increasingly green accessories which have captured the attention of the northern European brands most attentive to sustainability in the world of jeans and elsewhere. A range of proposals which, in recent months, has progressed remarkably, following the rules established by the corporate responsibility protocol called NO IMPACT.

This is a responsible approach underlined by the promise “Committed Accessories”, but also a strategic choice with a view to approaching those markets which so far have appeared to be most keen on the subject, for example northern Europe, Benelux and the United States, California in particular. This means that Metalbottoni is acting with increasing assertiveness on those scenarios where it has been present for a long time, in order to increase the segments depth, intercepting new ones, thanks to its wide-ranging eco-compatible proposal.

NO IMPACT: “Committed Accessories” expanded

It is the constant search for sustainable innovation that reveals the extent of the progress made over the past few months by Metalbottoni. For the Kingpins Show exhibition, there are many novelties in store from the company, extending its range in terms of sustainability. Firstly, there is the new MONSTER line eco-processing, special for pure denim, which – apart from metal – includes new material solutions developed through high-profile collaborations.

Also the LEATHER ACCESSORIES line is extending its range of sustainable materials. The line of tags and rear waistband labels is enhanced through interpretations based on two new eco-friendly materials: recycled jacron and cork. For denim designed to be 100% green, also in accessories. Sustainable proposals are increasingly integrated throughout the Metalbottoni range, for example the new glossy and satin finishing developed for the line LABORA on exclusive metal accessories.

Partnerships with brands from northern Europe: Bik Bok and Kings of Indigo

One of the most important collaboration in sustainable fashion is the one with the Norwegian brand Bik Bok. The brand that was founded in 1973 dedicated to young women, today offer accessible trend driven fashion through a network of over 200 single-brand stores in Norway, Sweden, Finland and Austria. The brand has since 2017 chosen to use only BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) certified cotton for their in house premium denim brand Never Denim. For Never Denim Metalbottoni has realized a series of jeans buttons and personalized rivets, all entirely produced according to the NO IMPACT protocol; which means recycled raw materials, no use of chemical agents, through processing and machinery that minimize the use of water and electricity, resulting 100% from photovoltaic panels. All these features are part of a capsule developed for the new AW 2018 collection for Never Denim entirely made with Fair Trade certified cotton. Thanks to this project, the No Impact becomes an integral part of a collection that is aimed at a very large, young and aware public.

Another important brand which has chosen the new NO IMPACT metal accessories is Kings Of Indigo, the Dutch denim mill which is presenting top-quality jeans, inspired by traditional American style, combined with Japanese attention to detail, which today has as many 250 authorised dealers in 12 countries, with a very strong focus on northern Europe.

More and more sportswear for the new Monster SS 2020 collection

The great Metalbottoni classic dedicated to denim confirms the trend of strongly merging with the world of sportswear. The MONSTER line introduces the style developments of the SS 2020 season, with the range being more and more influenced by technical and sports interpretations, alongside sustainable production processes based on the NO IMPACT protocol. The new MONSTER proposals include items made of non-metal material, using sustainable processes, of natural origin and 100% biodegradable; these accessories are similar in appearance to traditional polyester, interpreted in a responsible way, developed through a series of special and unique effects. Also the button, rivet and small plate range has been restyled, having always been the core of the MONSTER line. Today the number of solutions available increases  hanks to new vintage finishing, developed on metal accessories, which are also totally green. “The denim world is moving in a clear direction: that of sustainability.” says Maria Teresa Ricciardo, Creative Director at Metalbottoni, “This is true in particular for some markets, which are strategic for us, and where we are proving increasingly successful, thanks to constant product and process research from a green  perspective, which Metalbottoni today is able to offer within the framework of the NO IMPACT pathway which we have been pursuing for a long time”.

This autumn, following the success of the first collaboration with Swizz Beatz, Bally joins forces on another unique collection with the Grammy Award-winning music producer and global entrepreneur, inviting meticulously talented pioneer of aerosol X-ray art SHOK-1 to conceptualise and direct a new capsule collection which presents a diagnostic look at contemporary culture through cutting edge expression.

A founding member of the street art movement and a scientist with a degree in Applied Chemistry, SHOK-1 selected three key icons from his back catalogue - X-ray paintings of a hand gesture, a fly and ’The Consumer’ - that symbolise subcultures from his youth that also connect to Bally’s past. The artworks are represented across shoes, accessories and ready to wear. Talking about his vision for the project, SHOK-1 explained that he wanted ‘the collection to speak to the longstanding tradition of subcultures co-opting brands that weren’t meant for them.’ ‘I strongly believe that quality and excellence are universal concepts that can transcend class and cultural boundaries. The Bally that I remember as a kid has this fantastic relationship with subculture. It’s also a brand that has the same kind of attention to detail and production values that I aspire to in my own work, so there was a synergy there.’ Familiar with SHOK-1’s work, Swizz Beatz saw the potential and contacted him to discuss the opportunity: ‘SHOK-1 is a master artist and I chose him because our focus for this capsule was on exploring the art of X-ray and he’s a legend at his craft.’

As with all Bally collaborations, the metamorphosis that naturally evolves from creative cooperation is integral to the process.  Part of the ‘Bally Collective, curated by Swizz Beatz’, this collaboration continues the brand’s commitment to creating a platform to playfully empower artistic license across emerging and established talent.

The exclusive collection will launch in Bally stores worldwide and bally.com in October 2018.

• Huntsman Textile effects redefines dyeing of polyester including microfiber and blends with UNIVADINE® E3-3D diffusion accelerant
• Eco-friendly diffusion accelerant provides reproducible, high-speed polyester dyeing

Singapore – Huntsman Textile Effects introduces UNIVADINE® E3-3D next-generation diffusion accelerant to help mills achieve high-performance dyeing of polyester, microfibers and blends in an environment-friendly way that complies with current and anticipated industry sustainability standards.

The demand for polyester and man-made fibers is booming as sports and athleisure apparel markets expand rapidly around the world. At the same time, big-name brands that set trends in the sector continue to increase focus on sustainability and performance. As such, this is putting pressure on mills since the current industry standard involves chemically active diffusion accelerants that contain unwanted chemicals and require additional leveling agents and anti-foaming products that may be hazardous to people and the environment.

Developed by Huntsman Textile Effects specifically to meet these challenges, UNIVADINE® E3-3D diffusion accelerant is low-odor, free of benzyl benzoate and other hazardous substances. Part of Huntsman’s range of innovative dyEvolution™ dyeing auxiliaries, it uses Huntsman’s Active Diffusion Technology to enable high-speed dyeing with best-in-class leveling, retarding and migration properties.

“UNIVADINE® E3-3D diffusion accelerant delivers across three key dimensions – diffusion, leveling and migration – for exceptional performance and environmental and economic sustainability. Its environmental credentials offer mills greater processing flexibility and an optimum price-performance ratio,” said Kerim Oner, Global Marketing Manager for Dyeing Auxiliaries at Huntsman Textile Effects. “We expect this latest offering to change the way that the industry dyes polyester and blends while meeting stringent environmental standards.”

UNIVADINE® E3-3D diffusion accelerant has a high affinity to polyester, causing the fiber to swell and increasing the diffusion of the disperse dye, even at lower temperatures. Multiple leveling mechanisms then slow down the exhaustion rate to ensure safe, defect-free dyeing. Finally, as the dye bath heats up, the product’s strong support for disperse dye migration ensures the dye molecules are evenly absorbed.

As a result of this cutting-edge diffusion technology, UNIVADINE® E3-3D diffusion accelerant can be used to successfully dye polyester fibers in tightly wound or high-density yarn/beam dyeing and is suitable for jet applications without the need for anti-foaming products. Reducing exposure to high heat, its Active Diffusion Technology minimizes the potential to damage the elastane in polyester-elastane blends and provides for on-tone dyeing of microfibers. The superior migration support of UNIVADINE® E3-3D diffusion accelerant also increases reproducibility, allowing mills to dispense with additional leveling agents. Polyester, microfibers and blends treated with UNIVADINE® E3-3D diffusion accelerant comply with the requirements of bluesign®, in addition to being suitable for Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX® and an approved input dyeing auxiliary chemical for GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) certified textile products*.

Bally, the historic Swiss luxury brand is pleased to announce the appointment of two key figures to its executive team, completing the process of strategic redevelopment begun last year with the transfer of the Creative, Merchandising and Marketing offices from London to its new showroom in Milan.

Effective immediately, Eva Quirrenbach joins Bally as Chief Marketing Officer following a term in New York as Vice President of Global Brand Marketing at Tory Burch, having previously occupied strategic roles within the Tod’s Group in both Italy and the United States. Eva is a recognised expert in all aspects of international branding and marketing within the luxury sector, and with her proven understanding of consumer behaviour, she played an integral role in the development and acceleration of the digital footprint and in supporting global brand development at Tory Burch.

“Eva is an excellent addition to the Bally team. The combination of a consolidated experience and understanding of luxury brands along with her background driving the strategic development of successful global projects make her the ideal leader to drive Bally's commitment to unified commerce on a global level".
Frédéric De Narp, Bally Group CEO

Bally has moved to a three-pronged regional strategy and as such is also pleased to announce the promotion of Silvia Onofri to a new role as CEO for the EMEA region, in addition to her current role as Vice President of Global Wholesale. During her time in Bally, Silvia has obtained outstanding results entering top tier multi-brand doors around the world and increasing Bally's footprint in Travel Retail to make the brand a global leader in the field.

Silvia has extensive experience in the global fashion and luxury industry, having first joined the Bally team 10 years ago, following key marketing roles in Bulgari.

“Silvia has the unique benefit of intimately understanding the Bally brand and it’s DNA, and having proven experience in forging new relationships with the world’s leading retailers and their customers. With this invaluable expertise in hand, I am confident that she will infuse the EMEA Retail division with enthusiasm, professionalism and unique market insights to take Bally to the next level in these crucial markets” -
Frédéric De Narp.

The arrival of Eva Quirrenbach and the promotion of Silvia Onofri are part of Bally Group CEO Frédéric de Narp’s ongoing strategic vision to infuse Bally’s prestigious brand identity with heightened dynamism, appeal and allure.
Both roles report directly to Bally’s Group CEO, Frederic de Narp.

Wolford is recognized for high quality Skin wear and is a favorite among fashion influencers. Wolford realizes that when it comes to luxury, consumers expect brands to be responsible. In response, Wolford understands sustainable luxury is a new brand ingredient and are dedicated to expanding their collections each season and infusing responsible materials.

This July at Interfiliere, gain a sneak peek into the launch of Wolford’s Aurora collection of leggings and pullovers that are Cradle to Cradle gold certified, first one in the world! The new styles created use premium stretch yarn belonging to the ROICA™ Eco-Smart family, the world’s first yarn awarded Cradle2Cradle Material Health Gold Level Certificate and Hohenstein Environment compatibility certification, which provides evidence of compliance and offers confidence as a responsible choice. In addition to premium stretch yarn from ROICA™ Eco-Smart family, the Aurora pieces are made using two other responsible fibers, Lenzing Modal® a cellulosic fiber derived from sustainable forestry, and infinito® by Lauffenmühle, a specially modified oil based biodegradable polymer.’

Instead of using new materials, Wolford’s new collection is developed to return the ingredients back to the cycle, they simply borrow them for the lifetime of the product, which supports responsible product ingredient sourcing. At the end of the Aurora collection product lifecycle, Wolford will return them to an industrial composting station to naturally breakdown without releasing harmful environmental substances. Wolford is committed to becoming part of the solution and activating change as they continue to explore responsible material innovations.

Be sure to attend Première Vision NY Smart Talk on July 17th, 2018 at 2:00p to meet to Wolford’s own Andreas Roehrich, Director, Product Develoment & Innovation to discuss technology and Wolford’s quest to become a responsible luxury brand.
 

"The atmosphere at all four shows and also the #FASHIONTECH BERLIN Conference was more successful than last summer. The exhibitors repeatedly praised the range of visitors – international buyers, well-founded fashion experts, people that love experiencing new trends and with a high level of awareness for our beautiful world. All of them took the chance to exchange and get inspired by the shows and events. Our strength is the concept of creating content, commerce and community – we connect the right people at the right time and at the right touchpoints. The entire network benefits from that. Furthermore the new digital b2b platform veee.com was featured on the PREMIUM and SEEK and received a very positive feedback."
– Anita Tillmann, Managing Partner PREMIUM GROUP

On three days the PREMIUM GROUP once again showed and linked the most important international brands with buyers, influencers and other media representatives. Outcome: The real face-to-face exchange 2.0 is and remains important.
 
A total of 1,038 brands exhibited on the four formats. On top the #FASHIONTECH BERLIN offered the group's extensive and varied program as a conference. In addition to networking and trend scouting, the main focus was also on points of experience – an important aspect for the fashion industry, to which the PREMIUM GROUP increasingly relies. The halls of STATION Berlin, the Kühlhaus and the Arena Berlin were filled accordingly throughout the three days. The terrific summer weather contributed to the constantly positive atmosphere and invited all guests to enjoy all outdoor offers.

•     Explore a whole new world of trims

This summer, join Texworld USA and Apparel Sourcing USA as we highlight The Art of Customization: Findings, Trims & Accessories in our SPOTLIGHT area located in Apparel Sourcing USA. Featured exhibitors will showcase a wide variety of ornamental fabrics, edgings and more.

In addition, the show will offer multiple make–and–take classes. Meet Jana Platina Phipps, New York City's embellishment expert known as the "Trim Queen", who will host a workshop reviewing the origins of passementerie and a how–to on creating your own tassels, pom–poms and decorative knots. NYC's CraftJam will also make their debut participating in Resource Row, offering attendees hands–on lessons in learning how to make embroidery wall art and patches.

OutDoor2018: Schoeller’s coldblack® technology has been specifically optimized for use on knitted and woven fabrics so brands can now expand their product application uses. Under the blazing sun, textiles with coldblack® heat up less and stay cool to the touch. Südwolle Group, a leading manufacturer of high quality yarns, has also recognized the ideal combination of merino and coldblack®. With this, the wear comfort of wool apparel can be tangibly improved.

Wool is well known for its various property benefits, including insulation, natural antibacterial protection, odor control, light weight and nearly wrinkle free composition. Not only in the winter time, but also in summer particularly merino wool, a special high-quality type of wool, regulates moisture balance and thus the body temperature. The fibers can absorb a great deal of moisture or sweat and transport it away from the body. Warm ambient air quickly dries the material and causes a cooling evaporation, which makes it very comfortable to wear merino apparel in the summer time.

coldblack® technology from Schoeller supports the natural properties of wool because it reliably reduces heat build-up when exposed to the sun. Together with the help of Südwolle Group, the finish has been optimized specifically for the use in merino apparel. The yarn manufacturer chooses coldblack® for a variety of uses, especially for knitting and weaving yarns for sports and outdoor apparel and develops such products individually according to its customers’ requirements.

Stéphane Thouvay, Managing Director Product Management & Innovation at Südwolle Group, summarizes the use of the technology as follows: “coldblack® is part of our product range for the summer time, which we will be presenting at OutDoor show in Friedrichshafen. The technology reduces not only heat build-up, but also enhances the natural UV protection of wool without affecting the look and feel of the fabric. Therefore coldblack® perfectly fits into our yarn selection for sports and outdoor apparel, for example in our collection ʻYarn in Motion’. For end consumers garments made of coldblack® yarns can optionally be labeled with hangtags.”

When used in high-quality woolen fabrics, coldblack® has already proven its performance and is being used by renowned brands in various collections of men’s suits. Since 2008, the technology has been licensed by more than 200 brands, in sports particularly in the field of cycling, triathlon and golf. All components of the finish are bluesign® approved.

This July at Interfilière, discover responsible innovation and well-being at the ROICA™ booth.

ROICA™ partners create innovative fabrics for the Modern Wardrobe. See, feel, imagine and learn why brands are choosing ROICA™, view the collection of superior functional fabrics that revolutionize the premium stretch market, thanks to advanced yarn solutions dedicated to specific needs of the contemporary consumer.

Spearheading the stretch market, ROICA™ elevates new standards for intelligent contemporary consumers. ROICA™ representatives will excite you as they demonstrate functionality, their advanced color technology system, and show you a fantastic range of stretch innovations from smart shapewear to soft compression that can enhance designs. Come visit the ROICA™ booth to learn about the ongoing commitment to responsible innovation and creativity. As you enter, you will experience 3 Modern Wardrobe concept zones that showcase:

1. ROICA™ Lifestyle – a beautiful selection of commercial lingerie, swimwear and nightwear items from leading brands that include ROICA™, embracing the ROICA™ Eco Smart family of yarns.

2. ROICA™ Innovation – an exciting area that shares our textile partners’ innovations to inspire endless possibilities. This area will showcase lingerie concept garments for brands that will spark ideas for AW 19/20.

3. ROICA™ Lab – the zone that navigates you toward the latest hi-tech Modern Wardrobe solutions. This zone hosts unmatched premium stretch performance designed to exceed contemporary business and consumer desires belonging to ROICA™ Eco-Smart family and ROICA™ Feel Good family .

ROICA™ Eco-Smart family, the world's first range of responsibly made premium stretch fibers creating ROICA™ smart yarns that offer sustainable solutions with prestigious certifications:

• Global Recycling Standard (GRS) Version 3.0 certified by Textile Exchange - ROICA™ Version 3.0 yarn constructed with more than 50% pre-consumer recycled content.
• Cradle to Cradle Certified™ Gold for product and ingredients - ROICA™ yarn evaluated throughout the supply chain for lower impacts on human and environmental health. Striving toward eliminating all toxic and unidentified chemicals for a safe continuous cycle. Hohenstein Environment Compatibility Certificate - ROICA™ proudly breaks down without releasing harmful substances.

ROICA™ partners featuring ROICA™ Eco-Smart family include:
Giemme, Iluna Group S.p.A, Maglificio Ripa S.p.A, M.I.T.I. Spa, Penn Textile Solutions, Sofileta, Tessitura Colombo Antonio Tintex Textiles

ROICA™ Feel Good family, a brilliant range of advanced stretch fibers that deliver personal performance and measurable wellness. Thus, providing freshness and comfort metrics perfect for travel, sport, leisure and more. The family now offers a premium innovation:

• ROICA™ CF, an innovative yarn that neutralizes odors thanks to an active ingredient interlocked within the yarn. This durable stretch yarn offers a fantastic property to every wearer.

ROICA™ partners featuring ROICA™ CF include: Maglificio Ripa S.p.A., TINTEX Textiles.

ROICA™ also presents the following families through our textile partners’ innovations within the ROICA™ Innovation area:

• ROICA™ Color Perfect family - advanced color technology system that delivers a perfect color match finish with an undetectable matte look for the stretch materials.
• ROICA™ Contour family - high performance stretch yarn control that delivers a calibrated form optimizing power, softness and comfort.
• ROICA™ Resistance family - innovations linked to durability and functions to match particular applications including heat and chemical resistance in make and wear.

Attendees of the May 19-22 National Restaurant Show in Chicago learned that linen, uniform and facility services providers serving restaurants and other foodservice operations can be distinguished by earning third-party verification of their sustainability and cleanliness, as TRSA exhibited its Clean Green and Hygienically Clean Food Service certifications at the show.
More than 150 individuals viewed the exhibit, which screened a new animated video explaining the Clean Green designation. It’s now showing on TRSA’s YouTube page (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I-24iVCNRT0).

Depicting operations within a laundry, the video shows how contracting with a Clean Green certified provider delivers services restaurants need and gives them peace of mind from doing business with a sustainable provider. Clean Green operations comply with water and energy standards and demonstrate best management practices in supplying, laundering and maintaining textiles.

Visitors to the exhibit learned which providers serving these attendees’ home geographic areas are Clean Green certified and were encouraged to work with such a certified provider if not already doing so. Speaking with attendees also gave TRSA staff the opportunity to ask them about their experience with providers and, if currently under contract with one, its identity.

• 76 percent of those questioned indicate they currently use such a provider. Most could identify it by name
• 18 percent said they use an on-premises or home laundry for linen and uniform needs. Many of these respondents indicated they work for hotels, healthcare facilities, colleges or military bases with their own laundry equipment
• 6 percent said they use disposable products (napkins, wipers) instead of their reusable textile equivalents; most of these respondents are in quick-service restaurant operations

The TRSA display distributed copies of Sustainability: Finding the “New” Green in Your Restaurant Supply Chain, a 7-page guide to using a systematic approach to choose suppliers whose products/services are proven to be more sustainable than those of their competitors and whose own practices are more sustainable.

TRSA’s exhibit also kicked off a survey of restaurant management to determine their perceptions of table linen service as a plus for facility hygiene and service to diners. Results will help TRSA communicate to the restaurant industry the value of using Hygienically Clean Food Service certified providers in the hope that doing so becomes an industry standard.

Such certified laundries commit to cleanliness through third-party, quantified biological testing and inspection. This process eliminates subjectivity by focusing on outcomes and results that verify linens and uniforms cleaned in these facilities meet appropriate hygienically clean standards and best management practices for servicing full- and limited-service restaurants, hotels, hospitals, educational institutions and other locations where food is handled and served.

ABOUT CLEAN GREEN
Clean Green certification recognizes linen, uniform and facility services companies that demonstrate responsible leadership in sustainability and conservation by acknowledging commitment to improving water and energy efficiency and adoption of best management practices for reusing, reclaiming and recycling resources. Certified operations meet quality standards for effectiveness in conserving resources and minimizing environmental impact. Customers that use Clean Green certified companies to supply, launder and maintain linens, uniforms, mats and other reusable textiles can be assured that their provider maximizes sustainable practices.

ABOUT HYGIENICALLY CLEAN
Hygienically Clean certification demonstrates linen, uniform and facility services companies’ commitment to cleanliness through independent, third-party laundry plant inspection and quantified microbial testing. Inspection and re-inspection verify that items are maintained, washed, dried, ironed, packed, transported and delivered using best management practices to meet key disinfection criteria. Between scheduled and supplemental inspections, ongoing microbial testing quantifies cleanliness and indicates laundry process adjustments.